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Settimana 27: 08-07-2016
Wabi comunicazione d’impresa
Settimana 27: 08-07-2016
SOMMARIO
Olimpias
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Intervista a Gilberto Benetton – Corriere della Sera (04/07/2016)
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Settore
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Corsa all’Iran, guidano Benetton e Mango
Nike, Esprit, Victoria’s Secret and LiNing fail toxic-free fashion
ranking
FESPA To Host Digital Textile Conference In Milan, Italy
The fashion industry tries to take responsibility for its pollution
Textile sustainability conference taking shape
Settimana 27: 08-07-2016
Olimpias
Corriere della Sera
Settimana 27: 08-07-2016
Settimana 27: 08-07-2016
Settimana 27: 08-07-2016
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Settore
Corsa all’Iran, guidano Benetton e Mango
7 LUGLIO 2016
L’Iran promette di diventare il nuovo strategico mercato di sbocco per le aziende italiane della
moda. Secondo i dati Ice, nei primi due mesi del 2016 le importazioni in Iran di prodotti tessili e di
abbigliamento italiani (inclusa la voce ‘pelle e pelliccia’) sono aumentate rispettivamente del 178%
e del 63 per cento.
Al di là dei singoli dati, la principale conferma dell’importanza del Paese nello scacchiere
internazionale arriva in realtà dall’esempio di big come Benetton e Mango che hanno già piantato
le prime bandierine anni fa, e che ora vantano già una rete distributiva ramificata. Come
emerge nell’articolo pubblicato sul prossimo numero di Pambianco Magazine, Benetton è stato,
insieme a Escada e Mango, tra i primi a entrare in Iran. Lo sbarco è avvenuto nel 2006 con
l’apertura di una filiale diretta. A dieci anni di distanza, il gruppo conta su una rete di una trentina di
negozi gestiti da imprenditori locali, che toccano in modo capillare il Paese: non solo Teheran, ma
anche altre importanti città come Mashad, Tabriz, Shiraz e l’isola di Kish Island. Mango, invece, ha
debuttato nel Paese nel 2008 e ora conta sei store nel Paese nelle città di Teheran, Mashhad,
Esfahan, Tabriz e Shiraz che a breve diventeranno nove. “Stiamo progettando l’apertura di altri tre
punti vendita entro la fine di quest’anno o al massimo i primi mesi del prossimo a Teheran e
Mashhad”, ha annunciato l’azienda spagnola di fast fashion.
Tra gli ultimi nomi italiani a entrare nel mercato c’è Camicissima. Il marchio di camiceria che fa
capo al gruppo Fenicia ha inaugurato a marzo il primo negozio monomarca a Teheran, all’interno
del Mall Tiraje 2. Si tratta, spiegano dall’azienda, della prima di una serie di opening che
riguarderanno questo mercato nei prossimi cinque anni: sono ben 20 le aperture programmate, nelle
20 principali città persiane. Anche a livello istituzionale, la moda sta lavorando per rafforzare i
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legami con le associazioni del Paese, con l’obiettivo in particolare di creare una rete di rapporti per
superare le difficoltà burocratiche legate (anche) alle licenze distributive nella regione. Dopo aver
siglato ad aprile unMemorandum of Understanding con Teheran Garmet Union (Tgu), SmiSistema moda Italia, la più importante organizzazione del settore tessile e abbigliamento iraniano
che riunisce al suo interno oltre 20mila imprese aderenti, tornerà a novembre a Teheran per un
nuovo incontro con l’associazione di settore locale.
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Nike, Esprit, Victoria’s Secret and LiNing
fail toxic-free fashion ranking
Press release - 5 July, 2016
Hamburg, 5 July 2016 – Greenpeace International today releases its Detox Catwalk,
assessing how effectively 19 major fashion brands are cleaning up their supply
chains of toxic chemicals. Inditex (which owns Zara), H&M and Benetton are the only
three “Avant-Garde” companies on track to clean up their chains as promised by
2020, while Victoria’s Secret and Esprit and sports brands Nike and LiNing are failing
to take the necessary steps towards that goal.
“We applaud H&M, Zara and Benetton for leading the way and setting a new standard in toxic
free fashion,” said Kirsten Brodde, Head of the Detox My Fashion campaign at Greenpeace
Germany. “These companies prove that cleaning up the fashion industry is possible – both for
large and medium-sized companies.”
“Our assessment shows that the textile industry as a whole is not doing enough to go toxicfree. 16 out of the 19 brands assessed are stumbling over transparency issues or failing to
eliminate toxic chemicals; with only three years left they must speed up now if they’re to
meet their 2020 deadlines,” said Brodde.
The Detox Catwalk assesses how committed companies have performed against key criteria,
including eliminating known hazardous chemicals from their products and manufacturing
processes, disclosing pollution information and publishing suppliers’ lists.
While Victoria’s Secret, Esprit, Nike and LiNing scored in the lowest “Faux Pas” category,
another 12 Detox committed brands find themselves in the middle “Evolution Mode”
category. These include adidas, Burberry, Levi’s, Primark and Puma which are not banning
enough hazardous chemicals and rely on the flawed chemical list from the industry group Zero
Discharge of Hazardous Chemicals (ZDHC). This list is missing important substances like PFCs
and solvents like Dimethylformamide (DMF).
Companies like C&A, Fast Retailing, G-Star, Mango, and Miroglio score higher within the same
“Evolution Mode” group, either for better chemicals management or greater supply chain
transparency.
“A major step forward this year is that committed companies are truly lifting the veil on their
supply chains. Companies are publishing complete suppliers’ lists, which shows a trend for
long-term relationships with suppliers networks, built on mutual trust. That is crucial for
implementing the Detox programme,” said Brodde.
The Greenpeace Detox campaign demands fashion brands commit to zero discharge of all
hazardous chemicals by 2020 and requires their suppliers to disclose the releases of toxic
chemicals from their facilities to communities at the site of the water pollution.
Tackling water pollution is getting ever more urgent, especially in textile production countries
such as China where more than 80 percent of underground water is unsafe for drinking. Four-
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fifths of China's water from wells is not safe because of pollution, according to an analysis
published by the Chinese Water Resources Ministry this year. China’s textile industry is one of
the largest industrial water polluters in the country.
The corporate action has sparked policy change in manufacturing countries such as China,
where harmful chemicals used in the textile sector such as PFCs, nonylphenols and phthalates
have been included for regulation on the 12th Five-Year Plan for the Prevention and Control of
Environmental Risk of Chemicals.
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FESPA To Host Digital Textile Conference In Milan, Italy
Wednesday, July 06, 2016
Programme developed with FESPA Italia and leading Italian fashion & textile associations
FESPA will hold its next Digital Textile Conference on 30 September 2016 in Milan, Italy. The event
will be delivered with the support of the FESPA Italia Association and in close collaboration with
Sistema Moda Italia, the Italian Fashion and Textile Federation, and Associazione Italiana
Disegnatori Tessili, the Italian Textile Designers Association, both of which will field speakers. The
event is also sponsored by MS Italy.
The one-day conference builds on the success of a series of FESPA-led Digital Textile Conferences
which have taken place over the course of the last eight years. These conferences have been
designed to help members of FESPA's global speciality printing community realise the growth
opportunities in digital printing on textile substrates for a range of applications.
FESPA Digital Textile Conferences offer a focused environment in which to learn and network, both
for printers already active in digital textile printing and for those still seeking to explore the
opportunity. The September 2016 conference programme will provide print service providers with
insights into the diverse market segments of digital textile printing, feedback from printers who
have successfully entered the sector and technical guidance on how to address the opportunity,
including updates on the latest technology developments in machinery, software, inks and textiles.
The conference programme will be delivered in English and Italian. Confirmed speakers and
panellists so far include Enrico Barboglio (FESPA Italia); Duncan MacOwan (FESPA); Ron Gilboa
(InfoTrends); Fulvio Alvisi (AIDT); Andrea Ferrero (Miroglio Textiles); Lorenzo Zottar (The Color
Soup); Gianluca Brenna (Stamperia di Lipomo); Dario Garnero (Stamperia Serica Italiana) and
Andrea Barbiani (MS Italy). The event will be moderated by respected Italian industry journalist
Paola Bonfanti. The September 2016 Digital Textile Conference is co-located with FESPA Italia Day,
the event for members of FESPA's Italian association, enabling members to efficiently combine
participation in both events.
The FESPA Print Census, results of which were published in May 2015, clearly indicated textile as
the dominant growth application for the community, with 81% of printers at that time seeing
growth in this segment, the highest of any growth application. Digital technology was identified as
the key enabler, with over 50% of respondents expecting digitally produced garments to become an
important alternative to traditional screen printing in the next two years. Textile printers featured
prominently in investment plans, with 21% of respondents specifically focussing spend in this area,
supported by 12% planning to acquire thermal transfer equipment. Decorative and industrial textile
applications also featured heavily, with 78% of those surveyed reporting growth in textiles for décor
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applications. Textile substrates were continuing to make inroads in the signage and graphics space,
with 67% observing sustained growth in soft signage.
FESPA has collated further feedback from its community since the March 2016 FESPA Digital
exhibition in Amsterdam, which incorporated FESPA Textile. Responses indicate that digital textile
printing is now of immediate interest to nearly two-thirds of wide format printers, with 40% already
printing on textile, and a further 20% actively interested in entering the sector. Fashion and
garment printing was indicated as the primary area of interest, followed by interior decor and soft
signage.
FESPA CEO Neil Felton comments: "A year on from the FESPA Census, printers are turning interest
into action, as we saw from the tremendous buzz in the FESPA Textile halls in Amsterdam a few
months ago. Today, digital accounts for only a small proportion of all textile printing, but this is
forecast to grow substantially in the years ahead, with estimates suggesting that digital could
account for 5% of textile printing by 2020, up from 2% today. Clearly that's a significant
diversification opportunity for printers already invested in digital output technology and supporting
workflows."
The choice of Milan as the location of the next FESPA Digital Textile Conference reflects the
significance of Italy, and the Como region in particular, as a centre of European textile
manufacturing and decorating excellence, accounting for 55% of the European digital textile market
and producing more than 180 million square metres of digitally printed textiles in 2015. (Source:
Fibre2Fashion)
Registration for the Digital Textile Conference is open to any printer. Full details of the conference
programme and delegate registration can be found at www.fespadtc.com.
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The fashion industry tries to take responsibility for its
pollution
By Nancy Szokan June 30
The apparel industry — particularly the inexpensive, runway-to-retail segment known as fast
fashion — is known to wreak havoc on the environment. “The clothing industry is the secondlargest polluter in the world, second only to the oil industry,” high-end retailer Eileen Fisher
has famously said (and repeated, and written, and tweeted).
Water is a big part of the problem: Cotton is a thirsty plant. Textile manufacturers use a lot of
water, and the vast amounts of waste water they discharge are contaminated with bleaches,
solvents, acids, alkalis, dyes, inks, resins, softeners and fluorocarbons.
In its June 27 issue, Chemical & Engineering News considers the fashion-pollution problem in
the context of the “circular economy” — “the process of turning waste into a resource by
reusing and recycling products at the end of their useful life.”
Senior business editor Melody M. Bomgardner examines the benefits and limitations of such
programs as H&M’s take-back, where customers bring old clothes into the store in exchange
for discounts on purchases. The company has collected more than 30,000 metric tons of old
clothes since 2013, sending most of them to secondhand stores or turning them into rags or
fiber material for insulation. That’ s a limited market. The future goal, H&M says, is to
transform the fiber so it can be rewoven and remade into new clothes — but a cost-effective
way to do that hasn’t been found yet.
Adidas has created a concept shoe using nylon reclaimed from soda bottles and from gill nets
confiscated from illegal fishing operations. (The nylon “had to be cleaned of its fishy smell,
then powdered and re-extruded,” Bomgardner writes). In China, where more than half the
world’s garments are made, a company called Jinggong formed a joint venture with a Japanese
chemical manufacturer to recycle polyester and sell it back to apparel makers — but just last
month it reported a $50 million loss.
As Bomgardner notes, it’s fine to try to recycle materials, but the first challenge the industry
needs to address is to make textile manufacturing less polluting to begin with. Pollution
controls are hard to maintain in an industry where the supply chains are long and diffuse:
Levi’s has more than 500 suppliers in Mexico, China, Pakistan, Haiti, Egypt, Poland, Turkey and
Bangladesh. “It’s not always easy to understand what goes into the formulation of chemicals
you are using,” one official admits.
One program that has earned praise is Levis’s Water<Less jeans process, which takes the
water out of stone-washing and combines multiple finishing steps. “The company estimates the
changes cut water use by up to 96 percent for some styles,” Bomgardner writes. “It plans to
expand the process to cover 80 percent of its manufacturing by 2020.”
Settimana 27: 08-07-2016

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