I migliori abbinamenti

Transcript

I migliori abbinamenti
L’angolo dei vini / The wine corner
39
di Luigino Bruni
Sommelier professionista e docente Istituto Istruzione Superiore (IIS) "Panzini" di Senigallia
18
,PLJOLRULDEELQDPHQWL
7KHSHUIHFWSDLULQJV
3HU FLz FKH ULJXDUGD OD SDWDWD QHJOL DEELQDPHQWL FLERYLQR
SHUSULPDFRVDGREELDPRFRQVLGHUDUHFKHOHSUHSDUD]LRQLFUH
DWHGDJOLFKHIGLWXWWRLOPRQGRFRQTXHVWRSURGRWWRVRQRWDQ
WLVVLPH H GLYHUVLVVLPH RJQXQD GHOOH TXDOL TXLQGL SXz DGGL
ULWWXUD IDUH ´VWRULD D Vpµ FLz GLIIHUHQ]LD OD SDWDWD GD SURGRW
WLFRPHDGHVHPSLRLOSRPRGRURO
DEELQDPHQWRFRQLOTXDOHq
PDJJLRUPHQWHFRQGL]LRQDWRGDOOHFDUDWWHULVWLFKHRUJDQROHWWLFKH
GHOO
LQJUHGLHQWH3HUO·DEELQDPHQWRqSDUWLFRODUPHQWHLPSRUWDQ
WHTXLQGLFRQRVFHUHLOPRGRLQFXLODSDWDWDYLHQHFXFLQDWDHVH
qGLDFFRPSDJQDPHQWRDFDUQLSHVFLRLQYHFHVHUYLWDVHPSOL
FHPHQWH´GDVRODµ,PPDJLQLDPRGLDVVDSRUDUHOH´SDWDWHEUX
VFKHµ FLRq FRWWH VRWWR OD FHQHUH FRQ OD SURSULD EXFFLD TXHO
OHFKHQHL3DHVLDQJORVDVVRQLFKLDPDQR-DFNHWSRWDWRHVHSRL
FRQGLWHFRQROLRHVDOHQRQSRVVLDPRFKHDFFRPSDJQDUOHFRQ
XQ2OWUHSzEUXWXQPHWRGR0DUWLQRWWLGL9HUGLFFKLRXQ%UXW
5RVqGL&RVWDULSDRSSXUHLO)UDQFLDFRUWD5RVqGL0RQWHGHOPD
8QDGHOOHSUHSDUD]LRQLSLGLIIXVHQHOPRQGRqVLFXUDPHQWHOD
]XSSDGLSDWDWHXQDYDULDQWHGHOODTXDOHqODFUHPD
FKH SUHQGH LO QRPH GDO VXR LGHDWRUH 3DUPHQWLHU VL
WUDWWD GL SLDWWL FKH HVDOWDQR OD ORUR WHQGHQ]D GROFH
OD GLVFUHWD DURPDWLFLWj H VXFFXOHQ]D H FKH ULFKLHGR
QR YLQL ELDQFKL VLFXUDPHQWH JLRYDQL IUHVFKL GL DFL
GLWj QRQ WURSSR PRUELGL H QRQ PROWR VWUXWWXUD
WL FRPH OD 1RVLROD GHO 7UHQWLQR LO %LDQFKHOOR GHO
0HWDXURLO0XOOHU7KXUJDX,*76LFLOLDRLO0XOOHU
7KXUJDX 3DODL GL 3RMHU H 6DQGUL /D SUHSDUD]LR
QHSLFRQRVFLXWDqSHUzODSDWDWDIULWWDFKHFRQ
ODVXHFDUDWWHULVWLFKHGLWHQGHQ]DGROFHGLVFUH
WD VXFFXOHQ]D H GHOLFDWD XQWXRVLWj H VDSLGLWj
ULFKLHGHXQYLQRVHFFRPDJDULFRQOHEROOLFLQH
H FRPXQTXH DEEDVWDQ]D PRUELGR OHJJHUPHQ
WHFDOGRGLDOFROFRQSURIXPLGHOLFDWLFRPHXQ
3URVHFFRGL9DOGREELDGHQH6XSHULRUH%UXW6DQ
%ROGRGL0DUVXUHWRLO3URVHFFRGL9DOGREELDGHQH
6XSHULRUHGL&DUWL]]HGL'H)DYHUL8QDOWURSLDW
WRVWUDRUGLQDULRqLOVRXIIOqGLSDWDWHLQFXLOD
SHUVLVWHQ]DDURPDWLFDHODWHQGHQ]DGROFHVRQR
GHFLVDPHQWH SL LPSRUWDQWL FKH LQ DOWUL SLDW
WL DYHQGR DQFKH XQD OHJJHUD VDSLGLWj H VXFFX
OHQ]DULFKLHGHXQYLQROHJJHURGLDOFROPROWRIUHVFRGLDFLGLWj
SLXWWRVWRPRUELGRHPDJDULOHJJHUPHQWHWDQQLFRFRPHXQ$OWR
$GLJH3LQRW1HUR5RVqGL)UDQ]+DDVXQ5RVDWRGHO*DUGDR
LO)UDQFLDFRUWD%UXW5RVqGL8EHUWL/DSDWDWDqDQFKHO·LQJUH
GLHQWHSULQFLSDOHFRQFXLVLSUHSDUDQRJOLJQRFFKLOHFXLVDOVH
IDQQRVEL]]DUULUHJOLFKHISHUVRQDOPHQWHDGRURJOLJQRFFKLDO
JRUJRQ]RODFKHVRQRFDUDWWHUL]]DWLGDXQDLPSRUWDQWHWHQGHQ]D
GROFHEXRQDDURPDWLFLWjHVXFFXOHQ]DSUHGLOLJRQRYLQLELDQFKL
GLEXRQDVWUXWWXUDIUHVFKLGLDFLGLWjFRQXQERXTXHWGDLSUR
IXPLHYROXWLHSLXWWRVWRPRUELGRFRPHLO9HUGLFFKLRGHL&DVWHOOL
GL-HVLFODVVLFRVXSHULRUH´9LJQDGHOOH2FKHµGHOOD)DWWRULD6DQ
/RUHQ]R/HSDWDWHVLDFFRVWDQRVSHVVRDQFKHDSHVFLFURVWD
FHLELYDOYH/HSUHSDUD]LRQLSLFRQRVFLXWHVRQRLQLQVDODWDGL
PDUHFRQOHFR]]HLOEUDQ]LQRDOFDUWRFFLRLOVDOPRQHLOSROSR
, YLQL FKH OH DFFRPSDJQHUDQQR LQ TXHVWH VLWXD]LRQL VDUDQ
QRVHPSUHSLXWWRVWRGHOLFDWLFRPHO·(WQDELDQFRLO)DOHULRGHL
FROOL$VFRODQLLO9HUPHQWLQR7RVFDQRRLO9HUPHQWLQRGL*DOOXUD
:KHQFRQVLGHULQJSDLULQJVEHWZHHQZLQHDQGSRWDWREDVHGGLVKHV
WKHÀUVWWKLQJRQHVKRXOGUHDOLVHLVWKDWWKHUHDUHVRPDQ\GLIIHUHQW
UHFLSHVFUHDWHGZLWKWKHSRWDWRE\FKHIVDURXQGWKHZRUOGWKDWHDFK
GLVK KDV D XQLTXH VWRU\ RI LWV RZQ WR WHOO 7KLV LV ZKDW VHWV WKH
SRWDWRDSDUWIURPRWKHUSURGXFWVVXFKDVWKHWRPDWRIRUH[DPSOH
ZKHUHSDLULQJVDUHPRUHQRWDEO\LQÁXHQFHGE\WKHFKDUDFWHULVWLFV
RI WKH LQJUHGLHQW LWVHOI :KHQ GHÀQLQJ D SDLULQJ LW LV SDUWLFXODUO\
LPSRUWDQW WR NQRZ KRZ WKH SRWDWR LV FRRNHG DQG ZKHWKHU LW LV
DFFRPSDQLHGE\PHDWRUÀVKRULILWLVVLPSO\VHUYHGDORQH-XVW
WKLQNRIDGHOLFLRXVDVKEDNHGMDFNHWSRWDWRVHDVRQHGVLPSO\ZLWK
RLODQGVDOWWKHSHUIHFWDFFRPSDQLPHQWLQWKLVFDVHKDVWREHDQ
2OWUHSz%UXWD0HWRGR0DUWLQRWWL9HUGLFFKLRD&RVWDULSD%UXW5RVp
RUD0RQWHGHOPD)UDQFLDFRUWD5RVp2QHRIWKHZRUOG·VPRVWSRSXODU
GLVKHV ZLWK WKLV LQJUHGLHQW LV SRWDWR VRXS DQG LQ SDUWLFXODU WKH
YDULDQWLQYHQWHGE\DQGQDPHGDIWHUWKHIDPRXVFKHI3DUPHQWLHU
7KHVH GLVKHV HPSKDVLVH WKH VZHHWQHVV RI WKLV LQJUHGLHQW DQG
LWV DURPD DQG VXFFXOHQFH DQG PXVW WKHUHIRUH EH SDLUHG ZLWK D
\RXQJ IUHVKO\ DFLGLF DQG QRW H[FHVVLYHO\ VPRRWK RU IXOO
ERGLHG ZKLWH ZLQH VXFK DV D 7UHQWLQR
1RVLROD D %LDQFKHOOR GHO 0HWDXUR
D 6LFLOLDQ ,*7 0XOOHU 7KXUJDX RU D
0XOOHU 7KXUJDX 3DODL E\ 3RMHU 6DQGUL 2I DOO WKH SRWDWR GLVKHV LQ
WKHZRUOGKRZHYHUWKHEHVWNQRZQ
LV WKH SRWDWR FKLS ZKRVH FKD
UDFWHULVWLF VZHHWQHVV SOHDVDQW
VXFFXOHQFHDQGGHOLFDWHRLOLQHVV
DQGVDSLGLW\FDOOIRUDGU\ZLQH²
SHUKDSVHYHQVSDUNOLQJ²ZLWKD
UHDVRQDEOHVPRRWKQHVVDVOLJKW
DOFRKROLFZDUPWKDQGDGHOLFDWH
ERXTXHW VXFK DV D 3URVHFFR
GL 9DOGREELDGHQH 6XSHULRUH
%UXW 6DQ %ROGR E\ 0DUVXUHW RU
D 3URVHFFR GL 9DOGREELDGHQH
6XSHULRUH GL &DUWL]]H E\ 'H
)DYHUL $QRWKHU H[WUDRUGLQDU\
FUHDWLRQLVWKHSRWDWRVRXIÁpLQ
ZKLFKWKHSHUVLVWHQWDURPDDQG
VZHHWQHVV DUH GHFLGHGO\ PRUH DFFHQWXDWHG WKDQ LQ RWKHU GLVKHV
:LWKLWVVXEWOHVDSLGLW\DQGVXFFXOHQFHWKLVGLVKVKRXOGEHSDLUHG
ZLWKDOLJKWO\DOFRKROLFZLQHZLWKDYHU\IUHVKO\DFLGLFFRPSRQHQWD
QRWDEOHVPRRWKQHVVDQGSHUKDSVDVOLJKWWDQQLFHOHPHQWVXFKDV
DQ$OWR$GLJH3LQRW1HUR5RVpE\)UDQ]+DDVD5RVDWRGHO*DUGD
RUD)UDQFLDFRUWD%UXW5RVpE\8EHUWL7KHSRWDWRLVDOVRWKHFKLHI
LQJUHGLHQWLQJQRFFKLZKLFKPD\EHVHUYHGZLWKDQ\VDXFHDFKHI·V
LPDJLQDWLRQFDQFRQMXUHXS0\SHUVRQDOIDYRXULWHLVJQRFFKLZLWK
JRUJRQ]ROD ZKLFK KDV D VXEVWDQWLDO VZHHWQHVV DQG D GLVWLQFW
DURPDDQGVXFFXOHQFHDQGZKLFKLVEHVWVHUYHGZLWKDZHOOVWUXF
WXUHGZKLWHZLQHZLWKDQDFLGLFIUHVKQHVVDQGDFRPSOH[VPRRWK
ERXTXHWVXFKDVD¶9LJQDGHOOH2FKH·9HUGLFFKLRGHL&DVWHOOLGL-HVL
&ODVVLFR6XSHULRUHE\)DWWRULD6DQ/RUHQ]R3RWDWRHVDUHRIWHQXVHG
DVDQDFFRPSDQLPHQWIRUVHDIRRG7KHEHVWNQRZQGLVKHVLQWKLV
FDVHDUHVHDIRRGVDODGRUSRWDWRHVVHUYHGZLWKPXVVHOVVHDEDVV
EDNHGLQDSDUFHOVDOPRQRURFWRSXV7KHVHGLVKHVVKRXOGDOZD\V
EHVHUYHGZLWKDUDWKHUGHOLFDWHZLQHVXFKDVDQ(WQD%LDQFRD
L’angolo dei vini / The wine corner
´&DOD 6LOHQWHµ GHOOD FDQWLQD 6DQWDGL ( FKH GLUH GHOOH WUHQHW
WHDOSHVWRHSDWDWHGRYHODGHOLFDWDSUHSDUD]LRQHGHOODVDOVDVL
VSRVDLQPDQLHUDHFFH]LRQDOHFRQXQELDQFRGLPHGLDVWUXWWXUD
FRQTXDOFKHVHQWRUHHUEDFHRFRPHLO5LYLHUD/LJXUHGL3RQHQWH
3LJDWRGL$VFKHURR´,FDPSL%LDQFRµXQXYDJJLRGL9HUPHQWLQR
7UHEELDQR0DOYDVLDGHOODFDQWLQD*LDFRPHOOL8QFODVVLFRGHOOD
FXFLQDVDUGDqLOPDLDOLQRFRQSDWDWHGRYHODVWUXWWXUDGHFL
VDPHQWHSLLPSRUWDQWHGHOSLDWWRULFKLHGHXQYLQRSLVWUXW
WXUDWR FRPH XQ $OWR $GLJH &DEHUQHW 6DXYLJQRQ ´/DIRDµ GL
&ROWHUHQ]LR R XQ 5RVVR &RQHUR GHOO·D]LHQGD /DQDUL 6H q YHUR
FKHWDOYROWDJOLDEELQDPHQWLWHUULWRULDOLULVXOWDQRXQSR
IRU]DWL
qLQYHFHVHQ]DGXEELRXQDVFHOWDD]]HFFDWDGHJXVWDUHLOPDLD
OLQRFRQLO5HGHLURVVLVDUGLLO&DQQRQDXGLFXLDPRFRPH
*DEULHOH'
$QQXQ]LRODYHUVLRQH´1HSHQWHGL2OLHQDµ
8Q
DOWUDULFHWWDFODVVLFDqVHQ]·DOWURLOSROORDOIRUQRFRQOHSDWD
WH GRYH O·DURPDWLFLWj OD VSH]LDWXUD OD VXFFXOHQ]D H O·XQWXR
VLWjGHOSROORXQLWHDOODWHQGHQ]DGROFHGHOODSDWDWDULFKLHGR
QRXQYLQRGLPHGLDVWUXWWXUDFRQXQDEDVHDURPDWLFDSLXWWR
VWRLQWHUHVVDQWHFRPHXQ$OWR$GLJH3LQRW1HUR´DQFW9DOHQWLQµ
GL 6W0LFKDHO (SSDQ XQ 1HEELROR GHOOH /DQJKH XQ 6\UDK GL
&XVXPDQR R OR ´6FKLHWWR 6\UDKµ GL 6SDGDIRUD 'L VHJXLWR LO
SLDWWRGHOULVWRUDQWH8OLDVVLGL6HQLJDOOLDLOSLDWWRVLFDUDWWHUL]]D
SHUO·HTXLOLEULRWUDODWHQGHQ]DGROFHGHOOHSDWDWHHGHOODVHOYDJ
JLQDROWUHDOODGHOLFDWDVHQVD]LRQHGLDPDURGHOODFDFFLDJLRQHH
PDQGRUOHROWUHDOODGHFLVDDURPDWLFLWjGLWXWWLJOLLQJUHGLHQWL
VXWXWWLLOWDUWXIR3HUO·DEELQDPHQWRFRQVLJOLRLO´9DOWXULRµGHOOD
6RFLHWj $JULFROD 9DOWXULR XQ 6DQJLRYHVH FKH KD GHL SURIXPL
GLVRWWRERVFRROWUHDGHOLFDWHQRWHVSH]LDWHPDqVHQ]DGXEELR
XQYLQRGLEXRQDVWUXWWXUDHEXRQDIUHVFKH]]DFRQGHLWDQQLQL
SLXWWRVWRVPXVVDWLULFFRGLVHQVD]LRQLGLPRUELGH]]D
)DOHULRGHL&ROOL$VFRODQLD9HUPHQWLQR7RVFDQRRUD¶&DOD6LOHQWH·
9HUPHQWLQRGL*DOOXUDE\6DQWDGL
$QG ZKR FRXOG IRUJHW D SODWH RI WUHQHWWH ZLWK SHVWR DQG SRWDWR
HV" +HUH WKH GHOLFDF\ RI WKH FRQGLPHQW LV RIIVHW SHUIHFWO\ E\ D
PHGLXPERGLHGZKLWHZLWKVXEWOHJUDVV\QRWHVVXFKDVD5LYLHUD
/LJXUHGL3RQHQWH3LJDWRE\$VFKHURRU´,&DPSL%LDQFRµDFXYHH
RI9HUPHQWLQR7UHEELDQRDQG0DOYDVLDE\WKH*LDFRPHOOLZLQHU\
$FODVVLF6DUGLQLDQGLVKLVVXFNOLQJSLJOHWDQGSRWDWRHVZKHUHWKH
GHFLGHGO\ VXEVWDQWLDO VWUXFWXUH RI WKH GLVK GHPDQGV D PRUH IXOO
ERGLHGZLQHVXFKDVD¶/DIRD·$OWR$GLJH&DEHUQHW6DXYLJQRQE\
&ROWHUHQ]LRRUD5RVVR&RQHURE\/DQDUL$QGZKLOHLWLVWUXHWKDW
SDLULQJVEHWZHHQIRRGDQGZLQHVRIWKHVDPHWHUULWRU\DUHRIWHQD
OLWWOHIRUFHGLQWKLVFDVHRQHFDQKDUGO\ÀQGDEHWWHUFRPSDQLRQIRU
VXFNOLQJ SLJOHW WKDQ WKH .LQJ RI 6DUGLQLD·V UHGV &DQQRQDX /LNH
WKH SRHW *DEULHOH '·$QQXQ]LR P\ IDYRXULWH &DQQRQDX RI DOO LV D
¶1HSHQWH GL 2OLHQDL· $QRWKHU FODVVLF LV URDVW FKLFNHQ ZLWK SRWDWR
HV ZKHUH WKH DURPD VSLFLQHVV VXFFXOHQFH DQG IDWWLQHVV RI WKH
FKLFNHQFRPELQHGZLWKWKHVZHHWQHVVRIWKHSRWDWRFDOORXWIRUD
PHGLXPERGLHGZLQHZLWKLQWULJXLQJDURPDWLFEDVHQRWHVVXFKDV
D ¶6DQFW 9DOHQWLQ· $OWR $GLJH 3LQRW 1HUR E\ 6W 0LFKDHO (SSDQ D
1HEELRORGHOOH/DQJKHD6\UDKE\&XVXPDQRRUD¶6FKLHWWR6\UDK·
E\ 6SDGDIRUD 7KH IROORZLQJ UHFLSH LV IURP WKH UHVWDXUDQW 8OLDVVL
LQ6HQLJDOOLD7KLVLVDGLVKFKDUDFWHULVHGE\WKHEDODQFHEHWZHHQ
WKHVZHHWLVKQRWHVRIWKHSRWDWRDQGJDPHIRZOWKHGHOLFDWHELWWHU
QHVVRIWKHJDPHDQGDOPRQGVDQGWKHGHFLVLYHDURPDRIDOOWKH
LQJUHGLHQWV DV D ZKROH SUHGRPLQDWHG E\ WKH WUXIÁH 7KH ZLQH ,
UHFRPPHQGIRUWKLVGLVKLV¶9DOWXULR·E\6RFLHWj$JULFROD9DOWXULR
D6DQJLRYHVHZKRVHERXTXHWKDVKLQWVRIXQGHUEUXVKDQGGHOLFDWH
VSLFHGQRWHV7KLVLVDIXOOERGLHGZLQHZLWKDSOHDVDQWIUHVKQHVV
DQGVRIWHGJHGWDQQLQVZLWKDQLQWHQVHVHQVDWLRQRIVPRRWKQHVV
Ravioli di patate con interiora, sugo
di selvaggina e nocciole caramellate
Potato ravioli with giblets, game fowl
sauce and caramelised hazelnuts
Per la pasta di patate: 1k di patate cotte misto vapore a 145 gradi e
setacciate; 300 g di farina 00 e 2 uova intere. Per la farcia: 400 g fegato di
pollo o piccione; 200 g di cuori; 100 g di maghetti; 150 g di polpa di caccia
(beccaccia o altro); 200 g di fegato grasso di anatra; 250 g di cognac; 150
g di vino bianco; 150 g di tartufo;150 gr di burro; 50 g olio extra vergine;
aglio, salvia, rosmarino; 40 g di nocciole.
Tritare i fegati, tritare i cuori, tritare la carne di beccaccia. Rosolare l’aglio
nell’olio e nel burro tutti gli ingredienti e flambare con il cognac. Fuori dal
fuoco mescolare il composto con il fegato grasso di oca tagliato a dadi.
Preparare i ravioli di patate stendendo la pasta e formando dei cerchi
dove al centro verrà posta una parte di farcia che poi verrà ricoperta con
un altro cerchio.
Cucinare i ravioli in acqua abbondante, saltarli con un poco di salvia e
burro, cospargere la pasta con delle nocciole tostate. Servire.
Potato pasta: 1 Kg mixed potatoes steamed at 145 °C and passed through a sieve;
300 g type 00 flour; 2 whole eggs.
Filling: 400 g chicken or pigeon livers; 200 g hearts; 100 g gizzards; 150 g game
fowl meat (woodcock or other game fowl); 200 g duck foie gras; 250 ml Cognac;
150 ml white wine; 150 g truffle; 150 g butter; 50 g extra virgin olive oil; garlic, sage,
rosemary; 40 g hazelnuts.
Mince the livers, hearts and the woodcock meat. Sauté the garlic in oil, and sauté all
the other ingredients in butter and flambé with the Cognac.
Remove from the heat and mix with the goose foie gras cut into dice.
To prepare the potato ravioli, roll out the dough, cut into discs, place the filling in
the centre of one disc then place another disc on top.
Boil the ravioli in plenty of water, toss with a little sage and butter, then sprinkle
with toasted hazelnuts and serve.
C6,
ortolina,
39
RICETTA
Sirman
19