gORiziA - Autovie Venete

Transcript

[ O LT R E C A S E L L O ]
1
beyond the tollgate
F R O M V i llesse T O g or i z i a
GUIDES
BY AUTOVIE VENETE
Autovie Venete
0432 925111 - 040 3189235
www.autovie.it
Design and implementation: © Echo Comunicazione d’Impresa Milano
[email protected] - www.echocom.it
Editorial coordination: Alessia Spigariol
Graphics design: Lorenzo Paolo Sdraffa
Interactive english version: Altrementi Adv
Illustrations: Enrico Gisana
Translations: Rossella Mainardis/RB
First issue: June 2014
Printed in Italy
In consideration of the particular characteristics of the Internet, the publisher
shall not be held responsible for any changes of addresses and contents of
the sites mentioned herein.
Editors:
Mara Bon (Food, Wine and Typical produce, Lunches and dinners, Shopping)
is a journalist, with a passion for art and food. She has published several
articles on the culture of food and wine for daily, weekly, monthly and field
guide magazines and has edited studies of social-economic surveys, tourist marketing and geographical analysis for various boards.
Christian Seu (The Land, Historical and Artistic routes) is a freelance journalist, ANSA correspondent for Gorizia Province and collaborates with daily
newspaper Messagero Veneto.
He has been Press officer in Gorizia and communications manager of numerous cultural events in the capital town of this area. In the past, he collaborated with the daily newspaper Il Piccolo and Radio Gorizia 1 and is coowner of the communications Studio Area12.
We thank Turismo FVG and Autovie Venete Press Office for their collaboration.
All photos in this Guide are courtesy of Turismo FVG Archives, except those
on pages 47, 63 and 73, which are courtesy of Autovie Venete archives.
Information office Turismo FVG - Gorizia:
Infopoint FVG
Corso Italia, 9
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 535764 / Fax +39 0481 539294
[email protected]
O L T R E C A S E L L O / F R O M V illesse T O gori z ia
[ i n de x ]
1. THE LAND
SOME HISTORY
FROM TORRE TO ISONZO RIVERS
A M O S A I C O F C U LT U R E S
2 . H I S T O R Y A N D A R T I T IN E R A R I E S
G O R IZI A
CASTELLO DI GORIZIA
L A CHIESETTA DI SANTO SPIRITO
PROVINCIAL MUSEUMS
DUOMO DI GORIZIA
P ala z z o C oronini C ronberg
P ia z z a della T ransalpina
THE SYNAGOGUE
OSL AVIA –MILITARY MEMORIAL CEMETERY
NOVA GORICA
C A S T A G N E V I ZZ A M O N A S T R Y
SALCANO BRIDGE
VALDIROSE JEWISH CEMETeRY
F A R R A D ’ I S O NZ O
I l M useo della C ivilt à e C ultura contadina
M useo dell ’ A utomobile e della T ecnica
G R A D I S C A D ' I S O NZ O
D uomo di gradisca
P ala z z o T orriani
THE CITY WALLS
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INDEX
CORMÒNS
DUOMO DI SAN ADALBERTO
P ala z z o L ocatelli e pia z z a X X I V M aggio
MASSIMILIANO I
C hiesa della B eata V ergine del S occorso
3 . F O O D , W IN E A N D T Y P I C A L P R O D U C E
EUROPEAN AND CENTRAL EUROPEAN CUISINE
JOURNEY IN THE VINEYARDS
DISCOVERING TYPICAL PRODUCTS
4 . L U N C H E S A N D D INN E R S
Gor i z i a
T rattoria A lla L una
R osenbar
B orgo C astello 2 3
A l chiostro
T rattoria D a M ajda
T rattoria 1 0 1
T rattoria D a G ianni
A i tre soldi gori z iani
A l P onte del C alvario
Nova G O R i ca
L ocanda K ekec
S a n F lor i a n o del C oll i o
O steria K orsic
V ogric
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F arra d ’ Iso n z o
B orgo C olmello
M ossa
V ecchie province
Grad i sca d ' i so n z o
A l P onte
R oma n s d ’ Iso n z o
L ocanda C asa V ersa 1 8 3 4
C apr i va del F r i ul i
R istorante V innaeria L a B aita
T avernetta al C astello
B ra z z a n o d i C ormò n s
T erra & V ini
C ormò n s
T rattoria A l C acciatore - L a S ubida
F elcaro
G iardinetto
D ole g n a del C oll i o
A l C jant dal R usignul
C astello di T russio dell ’ A q uila d ’ O ro
5 . S hopp i n g
Gor i z i a
M ercato coperto
A z ienda A gricola Zian L uigia
P asticceria centrale
I l F ornaio
T orrefa z ione C aff è G ori z iana
C aff è M attioni
A urea s . r . l .
R adikon
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INDEX
L uc i n i co
M acelleria C argnel V inicio
C ooperativa A picoltori L a casa dell ’ ape
M edea
L is R osis
Grad i sca d ' i so n z o
a z ienda agricola blason
C ormò n s
B org da O cjs
C antina P roduttori C orm ò ns
P rosciuttificio L oren z o D ’ O svaldo
A ceto S irk
K andie , A z ienda A gricola di S tecchina F abio
M agn à s
T enuta di A ngoris
A z ienda agricola W alter F eresin
C apr i va del F r i ul i
W ine S tore C asanova
D ole g n a del C oll i o
T russ V inothek
V enica & V enica
S a n F lor i a n o del C oll i o
K omjanc di A lessio K omjanc e F igli ss
B ra z z a n o
Zor z on di D eganis G iorgio
v i llesse
A LARGE SHOPPING MALL
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Dear Client,
The motorway you are driving on crosses two Regions; their industrious inhabitants have branded themselves with creativity, entrepreneurship, dynamic spirit, and availability to trade with other
markets and this route contributes towards reciprocal market ease
of access.
In the past these lands lived through the emigration of thousands
of people heading to other countries and continents but today our
motorway assists men and women coming to search for work in
our country. Road transport has become the most used means of
transport since the post-war years and motorways are essential to
ease the flow of people and goods. Analyses of these flows allow
us to make interesting quantitative forecasts as well as important
sociological evaluations. Over the years, travellers’ profiles, destinations and reasons for travelling have changed.
In the same way, markets impose increasingly competitive demands on commercial carriers to deliver as many products as possible in the shortest possible time. Often, when we overtake trucks
and glance at their number plates, it is hard to recognise their origins, proving that current travel scopes and distances inconceivable a few years ago are now totally possible. Southbound goods
and people from Eastern and Central Europe travel along this motorway, thus significantly increasing flows. We have therefore allocated massive resources to technological improvements aimed at
safe travel.
The safety of travellers on Autovie Venete motorways is a quality standard of utmost importance and the services offered to our
/ 8 /
foreword
clients are continuously being evaluated and improved. However,
we have achieved this result also thanks to the collaboration of
our clients. Rest is essential to safe travelling and even a short stop
may often avoid the risk of fatigue or may simply break the tension
after hours behind the steering wheel.
These breaks are an integral part of our journey and our wish is
that you enjoy this aspect of your travelling. Our motorway, which
starts in Mestre in the Veneto region, and after a few kilometres
winds through Friuli right up to Trieste, on the eastern border of
our country, crosses places of great interest.
We have compiled this Guide to highlight the history, culture, art
and produce of our regions. It provides short itineraries near the
tollgates where you can enjoy a break surrounded by beauties that
can only be imagined or fleetingly glimpsed while driving along the
motorway. I hope that you partake of short yet stimulating itineraries to rest and relax and then peacefully set off again taking with
you the memories of having encountered hospitable people, tasted
unique flavours and visited unforgettable places.
Hopefully, this Guide will become your indispensable travel companion and will remind you of our heritage, culture and the North
Eastern corner of Italy.
Enjoy the ride with Autovie Venete.
E m i l i o T erp i n
P res i de n t of A utov i e V e n ete
/ 9 /
The editorial project “Oltrecasello”
arises from a mere thought: we spend
long hours on the motorway to reach
workplaces, people and places. Each
trip has a different objective. In the
past, these were often necessities rather
than opportunities.
[ g u i d E T o the g u i D E ]
Deep in our own thoughts, focussed on
our driving and our objective or destination, plugged into earphones and
Bluetooth, distracted by music and
news broadcasts, talking to fellow passengers, worried about the traffic and
the delay that constantly persists, we
drive on. We go on without being aware
of what we are driving past, without the
curiosity of understanding, admiring
and getting to know more.
/ 10 /
guid E T o the gui D E
The Guides Oltrecasello by Autovie Venete wish to characterise our trips in a different way by leading us, through brief
stops, on the discovery of short yet stimulating naturalistic,
historical, artistic, wine and food itineraries, all nearby the
toll gates along the Venezia-Trieste motorway.
These Guides are not meant to interrupt the journey but
to make our trip an experience, by allowing ourselves the
pleasure of a break, open to the surrounding beauty and
to reach our destinations enriched by new experiences
and knowledge.
A L L D I S TA N C E S A N D T I M E S A R E C A L C U L AT E D F R O M
T H E T O L L G AT E S N E A R E S T T H E M E N T I O N E D P L A C E
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JUNCTION a34
villesse / gori z ia
q rcode / G oogle maps
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[ oslav i a ]
[ bra z z a n o ]
[ cormò n s ]
[ n ova g or i ca ]
[ capr i va del fr i ul i ]
[ g or i z i a ]
[ mossa ]
[ luc i n i co ]
[ medea ]
[GORIzIA
E XI T R A M P ]
[ farra d ' i so n z o ]
[a34]
[ g rad i sca d ' i so n z o
E XI T R A M P ]
[ roma n s
d ' i so n z o ]
[a34]
[ v i llesse T oll g ate ]
[a4]
© autovie venete
/ 13 /
[h4]
The province of Gorizia stretches from
the Torre river to the Isonzo river, over
the slopes of the Collio and the woods
surrounding Nova Gorica. At the heart
of Central Europe, Gorizia enhances
the different cultural contacts that took
1[THE LAND]
place over centuries of intense and
at times riotous history. It is a unique
melting pot of different languages, religions and cultures. From the patriarchs
of Venice to the Hapsburgs, through
the Venetian Republic domination to
the inevitable influences of the Slavic
world, Gorizia is a treasure chest to be
discovered in all facets: history, culture,
nature, art, food and wine.
/ 14 / BACK to INDEX /
[ torre R I V E R . A lta V al T orre ]
Photo Ulderica D a P o z z o
SOME HISTORY
The province of Gorizia has been at the centre of often
rapid geopolitical changes since 1200. It acquired territorial structure only after the dynasty of the Counts of
Gorizia, Advocates of the Church of Aquileia, became extinct and remained unchanged until the end of the Great
War in1918. At the beginning of the fifteenth century, the
lands of the Patriarchs of Aquileia fell under the rule of
the Venetian Republic; motivated by the firm intention to
claim the rights of succession of the extinct Counts of Gorizia, the Venetians started the war against the Hapsburgs in
1508. The struggle stopped only thirteen years later when
the Hapsburgs
eventually
prevailed and
earned the title of heirs of
Counts of Gorizia.
Most of the territory was annexed to the Illyrian Provinces of Gorizia
in 1809, whereas a small part had become part of the
Napoleonic Empire two years before, in 1807. Following the fall of Bonaparte, borders were redefined and remained unchanged until the end of the First World War.
In the mid-eighteenth century the Gorizia province also
witnessed the rise of the first industries but the territory
remained predominantly agricultural for a long time and
« In 1508 the Venetians
began their war
against the Hapsburgs »
1.LAND
maintained first-born inheritance rights. Research and
development not only of oenology, but also of very particular vegetable varieties, such as the Rosa di Gorizia
(special type of salad) keep this region in the forefront
of productivity. One hundred years later due to the strategic location and the new railway link a prosperous expansion of commerce and trade occurred. This trend was
interrupted by the outbreak of the First World War. The
battles and bombings on the Isonzo Frontline caused
severe damages to urban and agricultural areas in May
1915. Italy occupied Gorizia in November 1918 and it
became part of the Italian territory after the Treaty of
Rapallo in 1920. The Province of Gorizia succumbed and
was annexed to the provinces of Udine and Trieste in
1923. The boundaries were redefined and the Province
was established once again four years later.
After World War II the territory was conquered by the
Gorizia partisan army and, following the Belgrade and
Duino agreements (1945), the area was divided into
Zone A, administered by the Anglo-American armed
forces, and in zone B, administered by Yugoslavia; Gorizia was at the centre of a political and diplomatic dispute. Then, the Paris Peace Treaty in 1947 apportioned
most of the territory to Yugoslavia and only a small area,
including Gorizia, remained Italian. The new border, almost inaccessible in the early years, was along the outer
boundaries of the city of Gorizia and separated it from
the inland traditionally linked to the city. On the Slovenian side, the construction of a new city, Nova Gorica,
began in 1948.
« The Osimo Treaty (1975)
defined land and sea borders
between the two States »
Following the Udine Agreement (1955), signed by Italy
and Yugoslavia during the years of the Iron Curtain, a
new border policy of unprecedented liberality took place
between States belonging to two different political blocs.
The policy regulated cross-border exchanges between
holders of the transit permit and farmers whose lands
straddled the border.
The Treaty of Osimo (1975) defined the ultimate land and
sea borders between the two States and the agreements
on the promotion of economic cooperation contributed
to improving the living conditions of the population on
the border. In that period the border area was extremely
important for both States and worthy of special attention, as it represented a tool for mutual development.
The significant differences between the two territories
did not however prevent continuation of economic,
sports and cultural exchanges. In the decades that followed, the two neighbouring cities, along with the surrounding towns, developed two adjacent and connected
urban settlements. The new Republic of Slovenia adopted democratic standards and achieved international recognition as member of the EU in 2004. It became part of
the Schengen area exactly ten years after Italy in 2007.
1.LAND
[ O slavia M I L I T A R Y M E M O R I A L ]
P hoto L uigi vitale
F rom the T orre to
the Iso n z o r i vers
Authoritative studies and researches have been top ranking the quality of life in the Province of Gorizia for several
years. In addition to services, the environment contributes to the serenity of the passing of time in the Isonzo
area. The milieu is set by the placid flow of the Isonzo
river, parks, perfectly harmonious landscaped gardens,
even in the heart of the city and the gentle slopes of the
Collio dotted with vineyards producing wines that every
year pleasantly surprise the palates of the most discerning
sommeliers all over the world.
«The Isonzo river also inspired
poets Giuseppe Ungaretti
and Simon Gregorcic »
The area between Villesse and Nova Gorica lies between
the Torre and Isonzo rivers. The Torre, the main tributary
of the Isonzo, flows through Gorizia and along Farra and
Gradisca in the south. The Isonzo flows for 136 kilometres from its source on Mount Triglav, in the middle of the
Julian Alps, before plunging into the Adriatic Sea. It is a
revered river for the events of the Great War.
1.LAND
The distinctive emerald colour of the river has inspired
poets such as Giuseppe Ungaretti and Simon Gregorcic
and it is especially beautiful on sunlit days. We perceive
an almost enchanted atmosphere, made unique by the
flow of the cold waters of the river, in Piuma Park, from
the Ponte IX Agosto in Gorizia, in the town of Solcano,
near Nova Gorica. The river has inevitably characterised
industrial and rural development, especially in the capital, where a cotton mill and some textile factories were
built just a few meters from the riverbanks to exploit the
Isonzo waters for production. Crossroads of cultures, the
area reflects this exciting variety also in its morphology.
The plains between the lower courses of the Isonzo and
Vipacco rivers lie at the foot of the Karst plateau, and the
pre-Alpine area rises behind the hilly Collio, stretching
into Slovenia, Gorizia and Cormòns.
MOSAIC OF CULTURES
Gorizia is crossed by a border that appears only on maps.
Cormòns is still very attached to the memory of the
Hapsburgs. Gradisca d’Isonzo has been influenced by the
Venetian Republic more than other cities in the Ancient
County. On the contrary, Nova Gorica is a young city in
terms of foundation and vocation and a favourite destination for sports and entertainment lovers. The mixture of
cultures is reflected in every aspect of daily life, from art to
food and wine, thus making Gorizia unique in its harmless
and fascinating contradictions.
The first settlements date back to the 1st century B.C. and
in particular two centres are still recognizable: Castrum Silicanum (today Salcano) and Pons Aesontii, which coincides
with the current hamlet of Mainizza in Farra. The first reference to Gorizia is dated 1001 and appears in the document
by Otto III who granted half of Gorizia to Giovanni Patriarch
of Aquileia and half to Guariento Earl of Friuli: “medietatem
unius villae que sclavonica lingua vocatur Goriza,” or, “to
each (person) half of the village that in Slavic language is
called Gorizia.” The next century dates the construction of
the symbol of the city, the Castle, which overlooks the city
centre from the hill that gives its name to the Isonzo capital
(Gorica in Slovenian means hill, high ground).
« Medietatem unius villae que
sclavonica lingua vocatur Goriza »
1.LAND
Crossroads of the Latin, Germanic and Slavic worlds, Gorizia still maintains a strong Central European imprint, which
is evident in the clear urban development of the city, dotted
with squares, tree-lined avenues, villas and numerous gardens: the mild climate, the peaceful tranquillity and its many
parks worthily gave it the eloquent title of Nice of Austria.
The history of Cormòns, located at the foot of Mount Quarin, is strictly tied to the Hapsburgs after having been a Roman military station and Lombard fortification. Disputed
between the Patriarchs of Aquileia and the Counts of Gorizia, Cormòns and the whole County passed under the tutelage of Maximilian I of Hapsburg in 1497. Maximilian is still
remembered with a statue in Piazza della Libertà. Cormòns
is currently a refined cultural centre that wisely combines art
(music, jazz, and literature at the popular festival CormònsLibri) and the highest level of winemaking, which is the real
economic driving force in the city. The main town square
(Piazza XXIV Maggio) is home to the Enoteca, a meeting
place for artists, government officials and citizens. The Cantina Produttori di Cormòns (Cormons winemakers association), which was founded in the late sixties to unite over two
hundred winemakers, stands a few hundred meters from the
historical centre. The Isonzo area has a history of interwoven events. Therefore, if Cormòns is more tied to Austria,
Gradisca d’Isonzo sinks an important part of its roots in the
domination of the Republic of Venice, as is seen in the urban
structure of the city itself. Gradisca was a bulwark of the
Serenissima and the historical centre was enclosed by massive walls to protect the urban settlement around the Castle between 1479 and 1499. Elegant buildings overlook the
characteristic calli (alleys), with refined sottoporteghi (cov/ 23 / BACK to INDEX /
ered walkways) concealing small artisan shops. Broad parallel roads, intersected by narrow streets, a regular system,
which immediately reminds us of military camps. The city
plan, with wide parallel roads intersected by narrow streets
immediately reminds us of military camps. The city architecture was designed by the Republic of Venice, which settled
in patriarchal Friuli in 1420, and sixty years later made Gradisca a stronghold in defence of its own territories, threat
ened by the
Turks. Leonardo
Da Vinci was
also requested
to bring his contribution to the
construction of
the walls and
was sent to the Isonzo riverbanks in 1500 by order of the
Venetian Senate.
Farra d’Isonzo is an urban centre of 1700 inhabitants which
borders the fortress city and was invaded by Huns, Lombards, Goths, Ostrogoths and finally by the Turks heading to
Gradisca. The Romans had a military station on the Isonzo
banks, Pons Aesontii, recalling the name of the bridge that
has recently surfaced in important archaeological findings.
Medieval history in Farra, from the Lombard Fara or fortress, unfolded around the castle that was destroyed in the
thirteenth century. The Strassoldo family, lords of the city,
defended their feudal domain against Huns and Turks before
surrendering to Austria.
« Farra d’Isonzo, centre of 1700
inhabitants, bordering
the Fortress City »
1.LAND
[ G ori z ia . C itt à vecchia ]
P hoto M assimo Crivellari
Our journey winds its way from Gorizia Castle with its museums and stately mansions to Oslavia War Memorial
Cemetery, living memory of the fallen
in the First World War. Then, a quick
stop across the border to admire some
works of international importance,
2[HISTORY AND
A R T I T IN E R A R I E S ]
such as Salcano bridge, with the largest stone arch built over a river in the
world. We visit Farra d’Isonzo, with
its agricultural traditions exhibited in
the Museum of Colmello Grotta, then
beautiful Gradisca d’Isonzo, located
inside the walls built by the Venetians in 1479 to protect it from the
incursions of the Turks, and finally
Cormòns, a lively tourist centre of
Hapsburg tradition.
[ V I E W O F C orm ò ns ]
Photo F abrice G allina
[ GOrizia ]
g or i z i a
CASTLE
A LEAP INTO THE MIDDLE AGES
Exit Gorizia
5.3 km / 8 min
Information
Times
Castello di Gorizia - Museo del
Medioevo Goriziano
Borgo Castello, 36
34170 Gorizia
Tel./Fax +39 0481 535146
www.comunegorizia.it
[email protected]
Monday: 9.30-11.30
Tuesday-Sunday: 10.00-19.00
2.HISTORY AND ART ITINERARIES
Gorizia Castle is a symbol and a must for tourists coming to visit the town. It dates back to the 11th century and is set on the hill overlooking the old town. The
manor has changed in appearance several times over
the millennium. The Venetians demolished the main
tower because they considered it too vulnerable to artillery and only the tower foundations, visible from the
Lanzi courtyard, remain. The current structure mirrors
the 16th century plan and is the result of the renovation that took place in the thirties. The bombings of
World War I had destroyed large parts of the central
buildings and defensive towers.
« The building
mirrors the 16th century
plan »
Gorizia Castle reflects the evolution that took place between the thirteenth and sixteenth century perfectly,
with the progressive addition of buildings and defensive structures. It passed from of the Counts of Gorizia
to the Hapsburgs with brief Napoleonic and Venetian
periods, hence the Lion of St. Mark placed on the portal
for the first time in 1919. The main part of the Castle
is in the Corte dei Lanzi where you can see the 13th
century Palace of the Counts, the Palace of the Provincial States, dating back to the fifteenth century, and
Palazzetto Veneto dated sixteenth-seventeenth century
that connects the two main buildings. The displays in
the castle recreate the atmosphere of a princely residence that has long permeated the castle’s atmosphere.
There is a small dining room and kitchen, furnished
with antique tables, sideboards and late medieval tableware on the ground floor. The impressive Knights’
Hall, also on the ground floor, houses a collection of
weapons used in the County of Gorizia from the 11th to
16th century, and there are reproductions of war machines outside.
On the main
floor we find
the
Count’s
Hall, now used
as a conference
th
th
room, and the
Hall of the Provincial States,
with its wooden balcony that preserves its spectacular
coffered ceiling. On the first floor, there is the Music
Room with accurate reproductions of medieval instruments. On the second floor of the Count’s Palace there
is the private Palatine Chapel dedicated to Saint Bartholomew, with important paintings of Venetian school,
and the Granaio, or barn that is an interesting lecture
room of the Museo del Medioevo Goriziano.
« Weapons used in
Gorizia County from
11 to 16 century »
[ G ori z ia C A S T L E . E N T R A N C E P O R T A L ]
CHIESETTA DI
SANTO SPIRITO
P lace of worship
for the inhabitants
of B orgo C astello
Exit Gorizia
5.3 km / 8 min
Information
Times
Chiesa di Santo Spirito
Borgo Castello
34170 Gorizia
Tel./Fax +39 0481 530193
View through glass pane at the entrance.
Holy Mass:
9.30, Sundays and public holidays
Brothers Michael and John Raquel wished and commissioned this small church built between 1398 and 1414.
The Holy Spirit Church is at the foot of the castle, a few
steps from the Provincial Museums and Casa Ressauer.
The building's façade is adorned with a belfry, a small rose
window, two trefoil windows and a porch roof enriched
by the effigies and of the Rabatta House coat of arms.
« The building’s facade
is adorned with a belfry »
The plan consists of three apses, two of which pensile,
placed on the eastern wall, while the entrance is positioned to the south. The church was restored at the end
of the last century and then partly rebuilt after the 1917
bombings.
P R O V IN C I A L
M useums
T R I B U T E T O T H E G R E AT WA R
AND EVENING DRESSES
Exit Gorizia
5.3 km / 8 min
Information
Times
Musei provinciali di Gorizia - Museo
della Grande Guerra e Museo della
Moda e delle Arti Applicate
Borgo Castello, 13 (Case Dornberg
e Tasso)
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 530382 - 533926
Fax +39 0481 534878
www.provincia.gorizia.it
[email protected]
09.00-19.00
Closed Mondays
Coming down from the castle to the valley, you will find
the Dornberg and Tasso Houses where the Provincial
Museums are located. They are managed by the Province of Gorizia. Here we find the Great War Museum,
divided into a nine-room sequence, which tells the story
of the First World War on the Isonzo front. The entire
itinerary is built around the story of two soldiers who
perished in a trench, to emphasize how the Italian operations were performed in the conflict. In the first room,
visitors can admire the complete and original uniform of
a Tuscany Brigade lieutenant, 77 th Infantry Regiment, an
1891 Mannlicher-Carcano rifle used by the Royal Army
in the two world wars. The reconstruction of a trench
with weapons such as Saint Etienne and Schwarzlose
« A War trench itinerary,
with weapons like Saint Etienne
and Schwarzlose machine-guns »
machine guns as well as original equipment, such as a
field telephone, binoculars and gas masks complete the
display. The 1914-17 Italian Army leader General Luigi
Cadorna’s coat is on display in the fifth room, with his
rank stripes on the cuffs and a few steps away you can
admire a Bianchi bersagliere’s bicycle, equipped with a
musket ’91 Ts. The last room is entirely dedicated to Armando Diaz, with original items such as field glasses, a
splinter collected in Medea and even a pocket Backgam/ 35 / BACK to INDEX /
mon, placed on a writing table. The Fashion and Applied
Arts Museum, the most important of its kind in Europe,
« The Applied Arts and Fashion Museum
is among the most important
of its kind in Europe »
is located on the first floor of the Dornberg and Tasso houses. The theme is sparkling ornaments: metallic
yarns, sequins, glass beads, tinsel and rhinestones make
evening gowns shine. There is a spectacular Neoclassical dress made in a rare type of silk tulle embroidered
with chenille and silver spangles, with lilac silk crêpe
applications as well as two Viennese dresses from the
twenties that belonged to Margaret Stonborough-Wittgenstein (1882-1958). Gustav Klimt portrayed her in
her fluffy white wedding dress in one of his most famous
portraits dated 1905. The exhibition, which has recently
been renovated, recreates a theatrical atmosphere, with
an antique stage from the ancient Teatro di Societàdi
Gorizia (Gorizia’s Social Theatre) displaying musical instruments, posters, photographs and documents. The
exhibits, mostly evening gowns, date back to the period
between late 1700s and 1920s.
[ gori z ia . museo della G rande G uerra . A R I F L E M A N ]
Photo M assimo Crivellari
IL DUOMO
D I G O R IZI A
P atriarchy
inheritance
Exit Gorizia
4.4 km / 7 min
Information
Times
Duomo di Gorizia
Corte Sant’Ilario
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 530193
www.cattedrale.arcidiocesi.gorizia.it
[email protected]
8.30-19.00
Closed Sunday afternoons
Holy Mass: weekdays 8.30/18.30;
Sundays 9.00/10.30/12.00/19.00
As you leave Borgo Castello with Piazza Cavour behind
you, Gorizia Cathedral in Corte Saint Illario dominates
the scene. It is dedicated to saints Ilario and Taziano,
patrons of the city.
The church dates back to 1296, when the first explicit mention of Sant’Ellaro church appears in the 1342
concession by Patriarch Bertrand allowing Alberto IV
Count of Gorizia to build a new altar. What remains today of the original chapel is the Santissimo Sacramento altar vestibule and the aedicule on the facade. The
burial chapel
of the Counts
of Gorizia was
built ten meters from the
ancient chapel
in the 14 th century. The chapel is lined with
sturdy
and
tightly woven ogives tapering into vaults that enclose
interesting paintings.
The refined frescoes of Sant’Acazio are unique in
Gorizia gothic art. The chapel was enlarged at the end
of the fourteenth century to cope with the increased
population in the lower part of the town. Works were
completed in 1525 and a square-base bell tower was
built in 1528. The Duomo was completely renovated
between 1688 and 1702 taking on its current aspect.
The central gothic nave was demolished and a threenave baroque church was built. It has two galleries,
« Sant’Acazio frescos
are unique
in Gorizia
Gothic art »
an internal arcade above the aisles and a large loft for
the organ and choir above the entrance. The seventeenth and eighteenth century altars in the aisles, the
greater altar, built in 1707 by John and Leonardo Pacassi, and the precious pulpit adorned with bas-reliefs
are outstanding. The façade was restored in 1886 and
completed only in the nineteenth century in neoclassical style. Bombing destroyed the roof and severely
ruined the bell tower as well as some of the altars during World War I. The Cathedral preserves a valuable
artistic heritage, mainly dated eighteenth century; particularly worthy of mention are some ornate vestments
and jewels donated by Maria Theresa of Austria to the
first Archbishop of Gorizia and paintings by Giuseppe
Tominz and Giuseppe Battig.
[ D uomo di G ori z ia ]
P etrussi P hoto Press - U dine
P A L A ZZ O C O R O NINI
CRONBERG
H istorical aristocrat
residence amidst
unspoilt vegetation
Exit Gorizia
7.3 km / 12 min
Information
Times
Fondazione Palazzo
Coronini Cronberg onlus
Viale XX Settembre, 14
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 533485
Fax +39 0481 547222
www.coronini.it
[email protected]
[email protected]
From Wednesday to Sunday:
10.00-13.00 and 15.00-18.00
Closed Monday and Tuesday
Coronini Cronberg Palace was constructed between
1593 and 1598 and today it is the headquarters of the
Foundation bearing the same name, established by the
will of its last owner, Count Guglielmo Coronini Cronberg (1905-1990). The manor house, surrounded by
one of the most beautiful parks in the Triveneto area,
lies in what at the time of construction was considered
the outskirts of Gorizia, on the road that led from Piazza Grande (now Piazza Vittoria) to the ancient North
Gate of the city. The palace, which was renovated in
2006 and probably built on a fortification tower, is a
fifteen-room museum embellished by fifteenth and seventeenth century furnishing on the ground floor, the
sumptuous eighteenth-century salons, the Empire halls
and the nineteenth century rooms on the main floor.
« The Manor house, built between 1593 and 1598,
is surrounded by one of the most beautiful parks
in the Triveneto area »
Ornaments, silver, porcelain, photographs, portraits,
crystals and everyday items from the four corners of
the globe create a warm ambience and visitors perceive
that the residence had actually been lived in by its former owners.
You can admire memories and family heirlooms as well
as valuable works of art: paintings by Bernardo Strozzi,
Tiziano, Rubens, Liberale from Verona, Antonio Cano/ 43 / BACK to INDEX /
va, Alessandro Magnasco, Giambattista Langetti, Giuseppe Tominz, Vladimir L. Borovikovsky and sculptures by Bertel Thorvaldsen, Giuseppe Ceracchi and
Franz Xaver Messerschmidt.
Alfredo Coronini landscaped a beautiful multi-level
five-hectare
English garden
around the palace at the end
of the 19 th century.
You can discover important archaeological remains from Aquileia,
an elegant Liberty style temple, as well as rare and precious plants: ash trees, lime trees, Himalayan cedars,
exotic plants, a Ginkgo Biloba, the loquat or Japanese
loquat, bamboo and a century-old cork oak. The park
was made with more than six thousand wagons of soil
and boulders from the Gorizian Karst.
« The magnificent multi-level
English gardens »
[ gori z ia . parco di P ala z z o C oronini C ronberg ]
P I A ZZ A D E L L A
T R A N S A L P IN A
F rom the I ron C urtain
to no - border E urope
Exit Gorizia
7.4 km / 12 min
The 1947 treaty of Paris established the new border between Italy and Yugoslavia and split Piazza Transalpina,
located in front of the railway station. The square had
been opened in 1906 in the presence of Archduke Franz
Ferdinand of Habsburg to serve the Jesenice-Trieste railway line. Divided by the so-called “Wall of Gorizia”, a
large concrete and barb-wired wall, the Transalpina became a symbol of political and ideological separation between Western and Eastern Europe during the Cold War.
The station and some suburbs of the Isonzo capital were
assigned to Yugoslavia and remained on the other side of
the wall. Nova Gorica or new Gorizia was built right next to
the new border.
The red star
and the words
in
SerbianCroatian
«Mi
gradimo socijalizam»
(We
build
Socialism) stood on
the facade of
the station until Slovenia’s independence in 1991, when
on Christmas day a tail was added to that star turning it
into a comet.
The barbed wire had already been used for symbolic
events such as a volleyball match with the wall dividing
the two halves of the field. The demolition of the barrier
that divided the square began in February 2004 and on
April 30 th of that same year, the newly renovated square
hosted the official ceremony that marked the entry of
« Divided by the “Gorizia Wall”,
it became one of the symbols
of separation between Western
and Eastern Europe »
Slovenia into the European Union, in the presence of the
European Commission President Romano Prodi. However, it was only with Slovenia’s entry into the Schengen
agreements in 2007 that the border between Italy and
Slovenia definitely fell, with the abolition of all border
controls.
Franco Vecchiet from Trieste designed and made a circular mosaic where the wall once stood. The bounda-
« Where the wall once stood,
Franco Vecchiet from Trieste
composed a circular mosaic »
ry stone at the centre of the Square bore the numbers
57/15 and the mosaic represents the “explosion” i.e. the
removal of this border.
The mosaic is intersected by a row of stones that ideally
reproduces the border line and has a circular metal plate
at the centre, replicating the inscriptions on the original
border stone that is now located on the right side of the
square.
[ gori z ia . M E M O R I A L S T O N E I N P I A ZZ A T R A N S A L P I N A ]
P hoto M aurizio Valdemarin
SYNAGOGUE
IN G O R IZI A
A TIMELESS
PLACE
Exit Gorizia
6.6 km / 11 min
Information
Times
Museo della Sinagoga
«Gerusalemme sull’Isonzo»
Via Ascoli, 19
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 532115
Fax +39 0481 522056
The Synagogue follows the Ashkenazi rite.
Open to the public on Tuesday and Thursday
from 17.00 to 19.00, and the second Sunday
morning of each month, from 10.00 to
13.00. Call during these times to arrange
guided visits.
The synagogue in Via Ascoli was built in 1756 and was a
place of worship for the Jewish community in Gorizia until 1969 when it was merged with the synagogue in Trieste
as there were too few Jews left in Gorizia.
Trieste’s community decided to donate the abandoned
building to the Town Authority in 1978. It was renovated
and reopened in 1984 to host cultural events related to
Judaism. From being a place of worship, the synagogue
was turned into a museum. The ground floor was designed
for younger visitors and for those who are not necessarily
experts in Jewish history and traditions. The temple is on
the first floor. It preserves the deep charm of a timeless
place, where few changes have occurred since it was built
in the eighteenth century. The Jewish Museum “Gerusalemme sull’Isonzo” (Jerusalem on the Isonzo) allows visitors to trace the history of the Jewish people through the
centuries, with particular emphasis on the Jewish community of Gorizia. The museum includes digital isles and
educational panels that support the permanent exhibition. A section is dedicated to Carlo Michelstaedter and
his paintings. These, along with the original manuscripts
and copies of his works and essays, are part of the Fondo
Carlo Michelstaedter, made possible thanks to the donation by his sister Paula.
The Synagogue compound is managed in cooperation
with the «Amici di Israele» (Friends of Israel), an Association that regularly organizes events and initiatives dedicated to the Jews in the Gorizia area.
OSL AVIA MILITARY
MEMORIAL
I n memory of
the G reat W ar
Exit Gorizia
9.8 km / 19 min
Information
Times
Sacrario Militare di Oslavia
Via Ossario
34170 Oslavia
Tel. +39 0481 531788 - 0481 489024
(Direzione Sacrario Militare di Redipuglia)
From April to September, from Tuesday to
Saturday: 09.00-11.30; Sunday: 9.00-13.00
From October to March, from Tuesday to
Saturday: 08.30-12.00 and 13.30-17.00
Special opening 1st and 4th November
The Oslavia Military Memorial is located between Piuma
and Oslavia, on the mountains north of Gorizia, which is
less than 5 kilometres away. It was built by architect Roman Ghino Venturi in 1938. It has a stern stately fortification look to it and consists of a large central white stone
tower with underground crypt and three lateral towers
connected internally through underground tunnels. We
enter the Cemetery up a monumental stone staircase,
flanked by rows of plants. The Memorial collects 57,201
corpses of fallen Italian soldiers (20,761 identified and
36,440 unknown) and 539 of fallen Austro-Hungarian soldiers (138 identified and 401 unknown), all exhumed from
war cemeteries
scattered on the
Bainsizza and
Vipava battlefields. The funeral niches of
the fallen are
arranged along the inner walls inside the central tower
and along the inner walls of the side towers; the unknown
fallen are buried collectively in three large ossuaries in the
middle of the side towers. The “campana chiara” i.e. clear
bell rings daily at Evening Prayers in memory of the fallen.
« 57,201 fallen Italian and
539 fallen Austro-Hungarian soldiers »
[ n ova g or i ca ]
C A S T A GN E V IZZ A
MONASTERY
THE SMALL SAINT-DENIS
T H AT W E L C O M E d
THE BOURBONIC KINGS
Highway H4 / Exit 5
9 km / 12 min
Information
Times
Monastero della Castagnevizza
Franciškanski samostan Kostanjevica
Škrabceva 1, C.P. 103
5000 Nova Gorica
Tel. +38 6(0)5 330 77 50
Fax +38 6(0)5 330 77 51
www.samostan-kostanjevica.si
[email protected]
09.00-12.00 and 15.00-17.00
Sundays and public holidays: 15.00-17.00
Groups accepted only on bookings
Škrabec Library may be visited only in a
group and on booking
A stone’s throw from Nova Gorica urban centre, on Kostanjevica hill, stands Maria Annunziata church with the
adjacent Franciscan monastery. The church, one of the
main pilgrimage destinations for the people of Gorizia up
to the redefinition of the borders in 1947, is still today
a place of worship particularly loved by the devotees of
the Isonzo area. Administered by Franciscan friars, the
complex was also home to the apostolic nunciature for a
period after the war. Earl Mattia Della Torre built a small
church on his property in 1623 and he placed an image of
Mother Mary for devotees to gather in prayer. A convent
was also built in those years and, before the Franciscans, it
was the home of the Carmelite fathers for over a hundred
« The church is a particularly loved place of
worship for the Isonzo area devotees »
years before they were driven out in 1785. The monastery
has been administered by the Slovenian Franciscans since
1811. The church was destroyed during the First World
War. It was restored between 1924 and 1929 and enriched
with fine stuccos. A gold framed image of Mother Mary
and Child adorned by a circle of rays, stands at the centre
of the marble altar. Several tombstones reveal the connection of this monastic complex with the devotees. Castagnevizza is known worldwide as the little Saint-Denis,
because it houses the vestiges of the last descendants of
the French royal Bourbons.
During the 1830 revolution, King Charles X was deposed
and, together with his family, exiled from France. He found
refuge with Earl Coronini of Gorizia and wished to be buried in the monastery. The monastery library is dedicated to
father Stanislav
Škrabec,
the
Greatest
Slovenian linguist
who lived in the
monastery for
more than four
decades. When
the Franciscans had to move from Monte Santo to Castagnevizza, they also translocated their rich library, consisting of precious writings, some dating back to the 16th
century; the two halls contain over ten thousand volumes,
including thirty incunabula. The valuable library was declared a cultural monument in 1952.
« The library is dedicated to Father
Stanislav Škrabec who lived in the
monastery for over forty years »
[ C astagnevi z z a M O N A S T E R Y ]
SALCANO
BRIDGE
ENGINEERING JEWEL
O N T H E isonz O R I V E R
Highway H4 / Exit 5
10.6 km / 12 min
Solkan (Solcano) bridge is the most impressive Transalpine railway bridge, which in Slovenia connects Jesenice
to Nova Gorica. It is the largest stone arch bridge in the
world built over a river and the largest stone arch among
all railway bridges. The span of the central arch measures
some 85 meters, whereas the total length of the structure
is 220 meters. The design is by Rudolf Jaussner and the
construction works by Leopold Orley, who in less than two
« 4533 Aurisina limestone rocks
were used to build the central arch »
years – from spring 1904 to December of the following
year- completed the construction. Works were hampered
mainly by the swelling Isonzo river, which occurred several times during construction. Four thousand five hundred
and fifty-three specifically cut limestone rocks were employed to construct the central arch. During World War
I, the bridge was mined by the Austrian army and badly
damaged. It was temporarily repaired after the military
breakthrough of Caporetto in October 1917 and trains
were again travelling along it in 1918. The Italian government repaired it radically, rebuilding the stone arch, and
completing the works in 1927.
VALDIROSE JEWISH
CEMETERY
1 3 TH C E N T U R Y T O M B S T O N E S
A N D M I C H E L STA E D T E R ’ S
ETERNAL REST
Highway H4 / Exit 5
11 km / 13 min
The Jewish cemetery of Valdirose (in Slovenian Rožna Dolina) near Nova Gorica is located just half a kilometre after the Salcano crossing. The cemetery was established in
1881 by the Jewish community of Gorizia and includes a
total of one thousand graves, most of which date back to
the twentieth century, but the sloping lawn of the cemetery
also has much older tombstones (precisely twenty-seven),
translocated to Valdirose from the previous Cemetery.
They are manufactured with inscriptions dated thirteenth,
seventeenth
and nineteenth
centuries.
The tombstones
bear epigraphs
dated thirteenth,
seventeenth
and nineteenth
centuries. The cemetery was used until the end of World
War II, when the Nazi persecution annihilated the Jewish community in Gorizia. Simple gravestones interspersed
with sumptuous ones belonging to important families of
Gorizia, amongst which the Morpurgo and Michelstaedter
families. The most eminent person buried in this cemetery
is the writer, philosopher and scholar Carlo Michelstaedter,
who died in 1910.
« The most eminent person buried in
the cemetery is Carlo Michelstaedter,
Gorizia philosopher and scholar »
[ farra D ’ I S O NZ O ]
MUSEUM OF
R U R A L L i fe
AND CULTURE
AG R I C U LT U R E A N D
C R A F T S O N D I S P L AY
Exit Gorizia
7.6 km / 9 min
Information
Times
Museo di Documentazione della
Civiltà Contadina Friulana
Strada della Grotta, 8
34074 Farra d’Isonzo
Tel. +39 0481 888567 - 888002
Fax +39 0481 888609
The Museum may be visited on appointment
The Museum of Rural Life in Friuli is in Farra, in the medieval village called Colmello Grotta, which was founded in
1730 and consisted of farmhouses, ovens and wells. The
fourteen-room exhibition traces rural life in the period
between the 18 th and 20 th century with the story telling
of the trades and professions in that period: the cooper,
the shoemaker and the blacksmith. There is a dining room
on the ground floor with chairs and wooden furniture, an
old tomato press, a mosquito net that protected the meat
products from insects and a churn to make butter. Next
to that, the cjavedal (hearth andiron), pots and pans, the
barley roaster, ember-heated irons. The reconstruction of
« The fourteen rooms
trace rural life in the period
between 18th and 19th centuries »
the cooper’s shop displays the workbench, the compasses
to draw the bottom of the barrels, the reamer to secure
the bottom of the barrel staves, the planes to smooth
wood, files and hand drills.
The winemaking room shows the various processes, from
harvesting to conservation with early twentieth century
ploughs, sulphate sprayers and an early nineteenth century
wooden press to make Viennese Picolit as well as funnels,
vats and demijohns. A blacksmith’s shop, a kitchen and a
cobbler’s workshop are the other interesting exhibitions.
Upstairs there is also an area dedicated to Casse Rurali
(Rural Banks), from their foundation until 1918. The first
‘Cassa’ (bank) was established in Farra in 1903 and there
are membership records, photos of directors, bank booklets recording rural activities and a 1910 text of a law bill
on farming. The most practised and economically vital activity was silkworm breeding. Silkworm breeding in Farra
has its origins in the eighteenth century. Maria Theresa of
Austria contributed to the making of a spinning machine
for silk weaving. The exhibition traces the
development of
the laboratory
as well as the
process of silkworm breeding
and silk production. A silk masterpiece is the banner of
the «La Fratellanza» (The Brotherhood) made in 1879 by
Countess Matilda Coronini: it represents a handshake under a mulberry tree, symbol of the Farra town.
« The most practised
and economically vital activity
was silkworm breeding »
[ F arra d ' ison z o . M U S E U M O F R U R A L life ]
AUTOMOBILE
AND TECHNOLOGY
MUSEUM
A TRIBUTe
To HENRY FORD
Exit Gorizia
5.2 km / 5 min
Information
Times
Museo dell’Automobile e della Tecnica
Via Gorizia, 150
Tel. +39 0481 520063 - 338 8767044
Fax +39 0481 520063
[email protected]
The Museum may be visited on appointment
The Automobile and Technology Museum in Farra holds a
small yet valuable treasure of sixty cars and forty motorcycles dating back to the period between 1897 and 1970,
bicycles, civilian and military radios, gramophones, telephones and teletypewriters. The Museum was designed by
Paul Gratton and its façade recalls the first Ford factory
in Italy that opened in Trieste in 1923. The exhibition is
dedicated to the memory of Henry Ford I and his revolutionary assembly line. In the museum we can view the
first five manufacturing phases of the Ford Model T, the
first car produced with this assembly system. The Ford 8V
(first single block eight-cylinder), a 1909 sports Ford, the
1933 Baby Ford (the first ever manufactured in a European
plant), Fiat models and vehicles that date back to the First
and
Second
World War are
the most interesting vehicles
on display. The
oldest piece in
the exhibition
is the electric Cleveland car. During your visit, you can
ask for demonstrations on the functioning of certain machinery and equipment. Visitors can also admire vintage
bicycles and motorbikes, cabled receivers, gramophones,
teletypes, wax roll reproducers and engravers.
« The oldest vehicle is the electric
Cleveland automobile »
[ Grad i sca d ’ Iso n z o ]
T he duomo
THE HEART
OF WORSHIP
Exit Gradisca d’Isonzo
3 km / 5 min
Information
Duomo SS. Pietro e Paolo
Via Bergamas
34072 Gradisca d’Isonzo
Tel. +39 0481 99148
Gradisca Duomo is located behind Palazzo Torriani and it
is dedicated to apostles Peter and Paul. The origins of the
church appear uncertain: a document dated 1342 in the
Archdiocese of Udine attests the existence of a religious
building where Gradisca Duomo stands but does not specify whether the date refers to the building or a subsequent
restructuring of the building. The church was at that time
dedicated to San Salvatore: the name suggests that the
original church was built by the Lombards and probably
restored in the 14th century by the Capitulary of Aquileia
who usually called their places of worship after the Saint.
The church has undergone transformations and restora-
« The church has undergone
transformations and restorations
over the centuries »
tions over the centuries: San Salvatore parish church became a cathedral and was dedicated to the apostles Peter
and Paul in 1789, when the Diocese of Gradisca was established. The tripartite Karst stone façade designed by
Paolino Zuliani follows the division of internal spaces into
three aisles or naves and dates back to 1752. The central
part of the facade is gabled and connected to the wings
by volutes. It is characterized by coupled columns, embellished by Corinthian capitals. The central portal is surmounted by a rectangular window. Inside, the 1690 high
altar and the lateral statues of Saints Peter and Paul are by
Leonardo Pacassi and the sixteenth century marble frame
around the altarpiece of the Resurrection is attributed to
Pomponio Amalteo. Frescoes by Giulio Quaglio have gone
lost, except for a few remaining fragments of “Gloria di
Angeli” that are in the Civic Museo in Palazzo Torriani.
The bell tower was built between 1644 and 1666, replacing the original bell, which was above the main facade.
Cappella Torriana is an essential part of the
building,
and
was
originally the private
chapel of the
noble Della Torre family. The chapel ceiling is decorated
with elegant late 17th century stuccos. The monumental
tomb and sarcophagus portrays Nicolò II Della Torre as a
warrior. He was one of the first Austrian captains of Gradisca and died in 1557.
« Cappella Torriana
is part of the Duomo »
[ G radisca d ’ I son z o . D uomo ]
P hoto massimo crivellari
P A L A ZZ O
T O R R I A NI
MUNICIPIO E GALLERIA IN
T H E WA K E O F T H E
D E L L A TO R R E C A P TA I N C Y
1.8 km / 3 min
Information
Times
Palazzo Torriani - Municipio di Gradisca
d’Isonzo
Via Ciotti, 49
Tel. +39 0481 967911
www.comune.gradisca-d-isonzo.go.it
Tuesday-Saturday-Sunday: 10.00-19.00
Wednesday-Thursday-Friday: 15.00-19.00
Mondays closed
Galleria Regionale d’Arte Contemporanea
«Luigi Spazzapan» - Palazzo Torriani
Via Ciotti, 51
Tel./Fax +39 0481 960816
www.galleriaspazzpan.it
[email protected]
Museo Documentario della Città Palazzo Torriani
Via Bergamas, 30
Tel. +39 0481 947913
Fax +39 0481 960622
Several public buildings were constructed during the captaincy of Francesco Ulderico della Torre (1656-1695) in
Gradisca. The most significant are Loggia dei Mercanti (in
via Battisti) and the Monte di Pieta (in today’s Via Dante)
with a sculpture of captain Della Torre that is considered
among the most interesting works of art in the Gorizia
area. Captain Della Torre was also in charge of the refurbishment of his family residence Palazzo Torriani, where
the Gradisca aristocratic functions took place. Palazzo
Torriani is the present Town Hall. It is probably the only
example of Palladian architecture in the Gorizia area and
is the result of several construction works that started at
the beginning of 1600 and continued until 1725. With its
central body above ground and slightly protruding from
the colonnades, the Gradisca Della Torre residence falls
under the category of ‘suburban villa’. This is a Palladian
architectural invention between an enclosed and compact
« It is probably the only
Palladian building in the Gorizia area »
block with an imposing impact on the urban area, and a
countryside house with its articulated wings and pavilions
stretching outwards. An elaborate portal with a cambered
opening stands out on the ground floor. It has stoned
banded columns composed of rusticated drums, gilded
capitals and dados supporting a semi-circular tympanum.
The building includes, among others, the Spazzapan Gal/ 73 / BACK to INDEX /
lery of Contemporary Art and The City Documentary Museum. Opened in January 1977, the exhibition building is
the result of intense activity conducted jointly by the Municipality, by the Province administration board and by
Cassa di Risparmio banking Foundation of Gorizia. It has
a permanent collection dedicated to the Gradisca painter
Luigi Spazzapan: ink, tempera and oil that represent the
entire artist’s works. On the second floor, there is an important and internationally renowned contemporary art
exhibition.
The Civic Museum has a collection of objects that trace
the history of
Gradisca, paintings by unknown artists and fragments of frescoes from the Duomo,
like the “Glory of Angels” attributed to the painter Giulio
Quaglio from Como.
« Spazzapan Contemporary Art
Gallery and the City Documentary
Museum »
[ G radisca d ’ I son z o . P ala z z o T orriani ]
P hoto massimo crivellari
T H E C i ty
WALLS
A V enetian M A S T E R P I E C E
and a touch of L eonardo
The Venetians built the walls around Gradisca in 1479
to protect the town from the attacks of the Turks. The
fortification had high walls and six large towers called:
Campana, San Giorgio, Portello, Spiritata, Marcella and
Calcina. The gateways to the town were Porta Nuova and
Porta del Soccorso. The fortification defended both the
ancient urban centre and the Castle with the Palazzo del
Capitano. Leonardo da Vinci contributed by designing
new weapons and protections for the fortress that was
conquered in 1511 by the Hapsburgs.
It played an important defensive role during the Napoleonic wars and only after fiercely resisting attacks, it
was eventually occupied by Bonaparte’s troops in 1797.
« Leonardo Da Vinci contributed
to the fortification of the Venetian town »
Following French and Austrian occupations, Gradisca
d’Isonzo became Austrian with the Treaty of Vienna
signed on 3 October 1866 (Third War of Independence).
It became permanently part of Italy after the First World
War.
[ cormò n s ]
DUOMO DI
S A N T ’A D A L B E R T O
PA I N T I N G S BY TO M I N Z A N D
SCULPTURES BY FIASCHI
9.6 km / 11 min
Information
Duomo di Sant’Adalberto
Via Pozzetto, 6
34071 Cormòns
Tel./Fax +39 0481 637152
www.chiesacormons.it
[email protected]
The Duomo of Cormòns is dedicated to St. Adalbert and
is the main church in this town situated on the hills. It is
impressive and majestic for its location and its bell tower
that is the second highest in Gorizia’s diocese after Aquileia. The first mention of a church dedicated to St. Adalbert dates back to 1289, in a contract signed in “villa of
Cormòns in front of Saint Adalbert church». The construction of the present building began in 1756, starting with
the demolition of the ancient medieval town and incorporating the construction to the old church which in the
meantime remained intact, to ensure the continuity of religious services.
The construction works were
partly completed in 1762 but
it took several
other years to
carry out all the works, which ended only in 1822, when
the church was consecrated by Archbishop Giuseppe Walland. The façade is divided by four pillars on high bases
and was completed in 1896. A golden wrought-iron rose
window by Cormons born Maghet and three statues by
Girolamo Fiaschi (the Virgin at the centre, Sant’Adalbert
the patron saint on the left and San Filippo Neri the patron
saint of the municipality of Cormòns on the right) celebrated nine hundred years of the martyrdom of St. Adalbert. The main altar stands out on a raised late Baroque
presbytery dominated by a tall ciborium full of columns
that support a dome decorated with plastic reliefs representing the Virgin of the Assumption praised by putti.
« The construction of the present
building began in 1756 »
The statues of Saints Adalbert on the left and James on the
right complete the altarpiece. The side altars are in marble
and made in the nineteenth century. A modern altarpiece by
Cormons born Castellani stands on the left of the 1891 Sacred Heart altar. St. Joseph’s altar by sculptor Novelli from
Gradisca is the most interesting with its very refined marble
inlay. The 1811 Empire altar, improperly called the Trinity,
is in white and green marble and is surmounted by an altarpiece by Giuseppe Tominz depicting Saints Ermacora and
Fortunato. The 1803 St. Filippo Neri altar on the right is by
Angelo de Cecho. The altarpiece depicts St. FIlippo Neri in
glory and in the foreground Saints Valentine and Antonio
Abate. It reveals the same artistic hand as the author of the
Trinity and it too can be attributed to Tominz.
The frescos in the Duomo were finished in 1893 and are the
« St. Joseph’s altar, the most interesting,
is by Gradisca-born Novelli »
work of Joseph Comuzzi from Udine and the paintings on
the ceiling of the nave and the presbytery are by Leandro
Rigo. They represent the martyrdom of St. Adalbert, the glory of the Madonna and the four Evangelists.
[ corm ò ns pia z z a X X I V M aggio A N D D uomo ]
P hoto M ario Verin
P A L A ZZ O L O C A T E L L I A n d
P I A ZZ A XXI V M A GGI O
B E AT I N G H E A R T
OF THE CITY
9.7 km / 11 min
Information
Palazzo Locatelli - Museo Civico
del Territorio
Piazza XXIV Maggio, 22
34071 Cormòns
Tel. +39 0481 637152
[email protected]
The elegant Palazzo Locatelli, today Town Hall of
Cormòns, sets the scene in Piazza XXIV Maggio. The residence was built between 1748 and 1789 by Baron Giorgio Antonio Locatelli, expanding an existing building. The
Locatelli family, nobility with diploma since 1209, came
from Bergamo and settled in Cormòns in the eighteenth
century. They were elected members of the Germanic
nobility by Emperor Ferdinand II in 1634. The L-shaped
building lines via Matteotti, forming an enclosed courtyard with numerous rustic buildings.
The facade of Palazzo Locatelli is divided symmetrically,
with a central stone entrance surmounted by a mullioned
« The Locatelli were elected members of Germanic
nobility by Emperor Ferdinand II in 1634 »
window. Floral type decorations on the ground floor date
back to the eighteenth century. At the right end of Palazzo
Locatelli is the Cormòns Wine bar, offering a wide selection of Collio wines. A staircase leads from the entrance
to the stateroom, decorated with scenes of life and costumes in the nineteenth century by painter Antonio Picco
Udine (1828-1897). The internal courtyard is lined with
several buildings once used to store wine and wheat. The
folador and the stables have been restored to become the
Civic Museum of the Territory, which collects sculptures
and plaster works, some coated in bronze, by Alfonso
Canciani (1863-1955). Canciani was born in nearby Braz/ 83 / BACK to INDEX /
zano and became a renowned sculptor in Klimt’s Vienna
after starting as an anonymous simple stonemason. His
works were donated to the town in 1993 by Nerina, the
sculptor’s daughter. These works document the artist’s
entire career and include «The weary worker» (1890) that
allowed him to be admitted to the School of sculpture in
Vienna Academy, the famous
«Lanciasassi»
(1894), recently
exhibited in the
square outside
the Town Hall,
the portraits of
the
Viennese
years as well as
the works carried out between 1920 and 1949 when he
lived and worked in Trieste. His most impressive work
is the sketch of the “Monument to Dante” (1896) which
he exhibited in the Venice Biennale in 1899 and won an
award by the Union of Austrian Artists (1900). It is in the
chapel of Palazzo Locatelli, which is accessible from another side of the garden.
« The Civic Museum has a
collection of works by Alfonso
Canciani di Brazzano, esteemed
sculptor in Klimt’s Vienna »
M A XI M I L I A N I ,
D E V O T I O N O F C O R M òN S
TO THE HAPSBURGS
Emperor Maximilian I, heir to the estates of the late Earl of Gorizia, confirms the Cormòns franchises, privileges and statutes in 1500.
There is a monument by Viennese Edmund Hofman (1903) dedicated
to Maximilian I in Piazza Libertà. The bronze monument stands on
a high stone base and was commissioned by the Town Authorities in
1900 to celebrate the fourth centennial of the dedication of Cormòns
to the House of Austria. It has recently been relocated to the square
after it had been relegated in the garden of the Museo della Provincia
at Palazzo Attems in Gorizia for many decades.
CHIESA DELLA
B E A T A V E R GIN E
DEL SOCCORSO
SYMBOL OF
CORMONs DEVOTION
11.1 km / 14 min
The church Beata Vergine del Soccorso (Our Lady of Perpetual Help) is located on the slopes of Mount Quarin on the road
leading to the mountaintop. Popularly known as St. Anne’s
Church, it overlooks Cormòns and the entire plains. Baron
Luca Del Mestri, parish priest of Cormòns and archdeacon of
Gorizia, built it in 1636 to offer the inhabitants of the mountain a place of worship after the church of San Pietro had
been destroyed
in 1525 along
with the castle.
The
original
project established that the
church had to be
linked by a portico to a Dominican
convent.
Only the portico was constructed and it remained intact until
1889 when land subsidence caused it to be demolished and
replaced by the current buttress. The facade of the church is
of late Renaissance style whereas the inside is rather simple.
The noteworthy wooden altar dates back to the first half of
the seventeenth century and is an example of Italian-German
Baroque style that was very much in vogue at the time. There
are wooden statues of St. Peter and St. Anne with Madonna
as a child at the sides. The altar on the right, dedicated to Annunziata (Our Lady of the Annunciation), is of a later period,
as well as the choir stall and the organ cabinet. Raided during
the Napoleonic era, even in recent years the church has been
robbed many times, enough to convince the Superintendence
to move the remaining works.
« Noteworthy is the sumptuous
wooden altar dated mid-sixteenth
century, example of
Italo-Germanic baroque style »
The territory of Gorizia offers a gourmet meeting point between East and
West. The Isonzo cuisine is a delicious
and elegant synthesis of different cultures and traditions: a rich, varied and
always rewarding quintessence. The
locals have elaborated typical dishes
3 [ F O O D , W IN E A N D
TYPICAL PRODUCE]
that have become a symphony of their
history and multiple relations with the
Mediterranean and Central Europe.
Flavours and tastes in local dishes are
reminiscent of Friulian, Austrian and
Slovenian traditions, enriched by German and Hungarian influences.
[TYPICAL CHEESE]
Photo L aura T essaro
M ed i terra n ea n
a n d C e n tral
E uropea n cu i s i n e
Eating in the Gorizia area and especially in the city itself means savouring and understanding its different
cultural roots that are often intertwined if not overlapping to create remarkable contrasts. Sweet and savoury
flavours are tangy and mellow; noble and rural dishes
recall Vienna and Venice.
Here we can
find
some
typical
Friulian dishes
such as the
musetto and
brovada. This
is a cotechino
served with white turnips, which are grated and fermented in marc. Central Europe is represented in gnocchi di susine (plum dumplings), in both the savoury and
sweet versions, Hungarian goulash, Hapsburg game
meat, Slavic cevapcici sausages and Austrian strudel
with ricotta cheese or apples, plums, cherries, recipes.
« Jota and cauliflower soup
belong to rural
culinary traditions »
The Friulian country recipes have Venetian influences
in their soups, risotto and polenta, an ever-present
matching for dishes. Rural culinary tradition highlights
vegetable soups abounding in vegetables. The Jota
soup (minestrone with cabbage, beans, potatoes and
3.FOOD, WINE AND TYPICAL PRODUCE
sauerkrauts) and the cauliflower soup are worthy of
mention. Homemade pasta cut into strips (blecs) and
dressed with roast meat and game gravy excels in first
courses, alongside bread gnocchi, semolina gnocchi and
plum-filled gnocchi dressed with melted sautéed butter
and cinnamon. Pork meat plays a lead role in both appetizing starters and barbeques. The Isonzo area offers
a wide choice of cold cuts from prosciutto to all sorts of
sausage-type meat, homemade salami, ossocollo (cured
pork neck meat), lard and «soppressa» (large spicy salami). A slice of prosciutto is still expertly hand-carved.
Prosciutto cooked in a loaf and served with horseradish
sauce and a glass of fine wine, is the unavoidable ritual
of a tajut (glass of wine, in Friulian).
The multi-faceted Hapsburg tradition influenced meat
preparation strongly: kaiserfleisch (smoked pork loin,
sprinkled with fresh grated horseradish and served with
sauerkraut), lepre alla boema (hare stew with sugar in
diluted white vinegar), goulash and game (pheasant,
hare, deer and wild boar). The Slavic tradition contributes with cevapcici (small spicy hot sausages) and Lubjanska, a kind of Milanese filled with ham and cheese.
The varied boiled meat dishes are also exquisitely tasty.
Country tradition has passed on the fragrant herb ome-
« Prosciutto cooked in a loaf
and served with horseradish sauce is a must »
lette recipes in several variations: with asparagus, wild
hops sprouts or twelve varieties of wild herbs.
Side dishes are potatoes «in tecia» (pan cooked with
onions), kipfel (small fried crescents, made with a mixture similar to potato dumplings), radicchio and beans
in a single dish. Rustic vegetables and legumes are the
ingredients of tasty Friulian dishes, all based on simple
recipes and genuine produce.
The whole Region is renowned for its typical food: Frico, Montasio cheese, San Daniele prosciutto and asparagus from the southern Friulian plains. Frico is melted
cheese cooked with potatoes or onions and is served as
a main course or as a one-course meal. There are also
seaside influences, with recipes that blend rural produce and fresh Adriatic fish from Grado and from the
Marano lagoon, famous for its seafood. Cuttlefish, sea
bass, sea bream, mullet, mackerel, anchovies, sardines,
the tiny and delicious «ribaltavapori» and seafood, like
the delicate lagoon clams, the well-known cockles (to
be enjoyed raw, gratin or sumptuously combined with
first courses) are offered in many menus of the area.
Mediterranean tastes blend with flavours from the Alps
in the pot.
Cakes and desserts all have a significant role in the local cuisine but the Gubana is the most popular (called
Putizza in Gorizia). It is a sweet yeast-leavened pastry
softly filled with dry fruit, raisins and walnuts and is
prepared following the Friulian tradition. It differs from
gubana in Gorizia made with puff pastry instead of the
yeast raisin pastry (similar to presnitz from Trieste).
It is not to be confused with gibanica, a typical Slovenian short-crust pastry cake you find on some menus
in Gorizia. It is prepared with layers of poppy seed filling, white cheese, nuts and honey. Unlike strudel, the
Gorizia-Trieste strucolo is a roll obtained by coiling a
sheet of pastry sprinkled with filling (ranging from fruit
to chocolate), boiled inside a canvas and cut into onecentimetre slices.
« Gugelhupf and Dobosch cakes are
Austro-Hungarian Empire heritage »
A must-try is the delicious palacinke (omelette filled
with apricot jam or chocolate). The pinza (traditional yeast focaccia marked with a cross on the top. It is
generally eaten at Easter and prepared with flour, eggs,
butter, plenty of sugar, a touch of rum, grated orange
and lemon peel and vanilla. The typical Gugelhupf cake
is heritage from the Austro-Hungarian Empire. It is
a long-leavened doughnut, like a Panettone, enriched
with raisins and almonds, originally from Vienna. The
Dobosch cake originates from Hungary.
Local dishes have survived the passing of time excel/ 93 / BACK to INDEX /
lently and they are a mirror of countless historical
events that have characterised this region. Local cuisine is among the most interesting and pleasant in current Europe. The Gorizian cuisine reflects the food and
wine culture of a small province beautifully located in
an enchanting setting. The many historical events have
left a significant mark on its cuisine, which is paired
with some of the best Friulian wines.
« Local cuisine is among
the most interesting and pleasant
in current Europe »
[ D uracina C H E R R Y ]
[ C risp F rico A N D N U T S ]
P hoto L aura T essaro
T ravell i n g arou n d
the v i n eyards
As we travel around the Province of Gorizia, our eyes
see far-reaching vineyards on the hills and in the plains.
This area is renowned for its excellent wines that have
been served at the most illustrious European tables in
Vienna, Moscow, London and the Vatican since ancient
times. Today the wines produced in this Region are appreciated worldwide.
Two areas of exceptional Doc (Controlled Designation
of Origin) wines characterise the territory on the right
bank of the Isonzo. The Collio is on the gentle hills from
Gorizia to Cormòns and the Isonzo where fragrant reds
and delicious whites are produced.
The characteristics of an extraordinary land set between the Adriatic Sea and the Julian Alps remain intact in the wines. The mountains and the sea are close
and create a unique microclimate with the right ventilation and temperature range, perfectly combined with
the “ponka”, the characteristic soil of the Collio made
of Eocene marl, ideal for the cultivation of vines. Precious wines that blend strength, personality, character
and elegance stem from these features.
The DOC Collio wine area extends across the northern
part of the Province of Gorizia on 1600 hectares. Viticulture is carried out in the municipalities of Gorizia,
Capriva del Friuli, Cormòns, Dolegna del Collio, Farra
d’Isonzo, Mossa, San Lorenzo Isontino and San Floriano
del Friuli. The name Collio means hills and has always re/ 96 / BACK to INDEX /
ferred to the wine from the gentle slopes that rise along
the border between Italy and Slovenia. The Collio white
wines are considered amongst the best in the world.
The Isonzo Doc area takes its name from the greenest
river in Italy, the Isonzo, which springs from the Julian
Alps and flows through gorges and ravines with impetuous nature.
It calms down
in Gorizia, widens in Gradisca
where it fruitfully waters the
fertile Isonzo
plains and then,
made even stronger by the Torre and Versa tributaries,
it flows into the sea in Grado. There have been traces
of viticulture along its banks since ancient times. The
trading of produce must have already been widespread,
since many historians attribute the origin of the name
Isonzo to the Celtic “Esos”, God of Trade.
The first vineyards were planted in pre-Roman times, apparently by the Heneti people who were mainly farmers.
Viticulture expanded considerably under Roman rule.
The Roman Senate, as Tito Livy said, sent settlers to Aquileia, founded in 181 BC, to spread viticulture and the
town became one of the greatest wine marketplaces.
In the third century AD, documents say that emperor
Maximinus confiscated a large amount of barrels and
vats from the Collio to build a wooden bridge on the
Isonzo to enable his legions to reach besieged Aquileia.
In the following centuries, and especially in the Middle
« There have been traces of
viticulture along the banks of the
Isonzo since ancient times »
Ages, the frequent conflicts of interest between Austria and the Serenissima led to endless clashes and real
wars. Beautiful vineyards were repeatedly destroyed
and cellars looted. Faustino Moisesso in the Historia
dell’ultima guerra in Friuli Friuli (History of the last war
« Modern viticulture started
in the Collio in the 1850s »
in Friuli) says that the Venetian troops conquered the
castle of San Floriano, imperial outpost, in 1616 and
seized «more than 300 wagons of exquisite wine».
After the Dark Ages, the vines grown in these areas
continued to produce wine that was popular throughout Europe: from the Serenissima Republic of Venice to
Emperor Charles V, from the czar of Russia to Vienna
capital of the Austro-Hungarian Empire where horsedrawn carriages delivered large barrels from the Collio
regularly in the nineteenth century.
Modern viticulture was started in the Collio during the
second half of the nineteenth century by Count Theodore de La Tour. He married the noble Elvine Ritter de
Zahoni, owner of Villa Russiz in Capriva del Friuli and
brought the first vines of grey, white, black Pinot as well
as Sauvignon and Merlot to the Collio. The cultivation
of the most renowned traditional varieties, which are
still present and grown successfully, was maintained.
European viticulture was seriously threatened by the
spread of the deadly pathogens oidium and downy mildew in the second half of the nineteenth century.
Leading winemaking experts from various areas of the
Empire held the 4th Austrian Oenological Congress in
Gorizia in 1891. They found effective new methodologies and a modern vision that upgraded local and European viticulture. The wine industry was involved in important initiatives during the 1960s. Count Sigismondo
Douglas Attems and some foresighted winemakers from
Gorizia set up the first Friuli Venezia Giulia Consorzio
di Tutela Vini Collio i.e. Consortium for the Protection
of the Collio wines in 1964. The consortium immediately started working to achieve the DOC, Denomination
of Controlled origin by proposing the first production
rules that approved in 1968.
This paved the way to the Grave Doc, Colli Orientali
del Friuli, Aquileia, Latisana, Annia and Carso consortiums. The Isonzo Doc was established in 1974.
Wine plays a leading role and is of absolute high quality
everywhere in the Isonzo area.
There is plenty
of choice: you
can stop in the
gostilne (taverns) on the
beautiful hilltops along the
border, in farm
restaurants, frascas and elegant restaurants from Dolegna
to the beautiful hilltops of Oslavia just above Gorizia.
« The first Friuli Venezia Giulia
Consortium for the protection of Collio
wines was set up in 1964 »
The traditional ritual of having a ‘tajut’, i.e. a glass
of wine in the many typical restaurants and wine bars
in Gorizia and especially in the historical town centre
where you can definitely taste a glass of exceptional
wine, is centuries old.
[GRAPE HARVEST]
Photo Matteo L ava z z a S eranto
[VINEYARD]
P hoto di M ario Verin
A stop
to apprec i ate the best
R e g i o n al v i t i culture
E n oteca
d i C ormò n s
W i ne b a r
The Collio excellences are well represented in this Enoteca overlooking charming Piazza XXIV Maggio in Cormòns. In a rustic and
cosy ambience, the restaurant offers a wide selection of local wines
to enjoy under the expert guidance of the staff and taste fine local
cheese and cold cuts. Events and tastings with producers are organized periodically in the upper room where wine lovers and tourists
can taste, buy and get information about the wines from the Collio and
the surrounding areas.
Piazza XXIV Maggio, 21
34071 Cormòns
Tel. +39 0481 630371
www.enoteca-cormons.it
[email protected]
Times: 11.00-22.00, closed Tuesday
E n oteca L a
sere n i ss i ma
W i ne b a r
The Enoteca La Serenissima is in a well-furnished and historical
building. You can enjoy a remarkable variety of excellent and refined
local wines ranging from fresh and fragrant whites to full-bodied and
velvety reds. Local cold cuts and cheese are also served. La Serenissima was the first public wine-bar in Italy after Siena and in the past,
it hosted the Gran Premio Noè, the Oscar for Regional viticulture. The
current management began in 2012.
Via Battisti, 30
Tel. +39 0481 960292
www.enotecaregionalelaserenissimagradisca.it
[email protected]
Times: 11.00-14.00 and 17.30-22.00,
Closed Mondays
T he w i n e
a n d cherry route
P i uma Gor i z i a - O slav i a S a n F lor i a n o - G i asba n a - C ormò n s C apr i va - M ossa – Gor i z i a
(km 36.4)
The route winds through the Gorizia Collio among vineyards and
fruit trees on the gentle hills. This corner of paradise along the
border between Italy and Slovenia deserves a visit. We leave Gorizia from Viale XX September, cross the Torrione Bridge and head
for the Collio. Take the Wine and Cherry Route to Oslavia where
the white monumental War Memorial stands and reach the village of San Floriano del Collio. This is an important viticultural
centre and location of the Counts Formentini castle, which is a
hotel, restaurant and home of the Golf Club San Floriano. In the
surrounding hills, you can find numerous wineries, osterie and
restaurants: Komjanc Alessio, Località Giasbana, 35 (www.komjancalessio.com), Gradisciutta, in Località Giasbana, 32/a (www.gradisciutta.com), Praga, in località Scedina, 5 (www.draga.it), Muzic
in località Bivio, 4 (www.cantinamuzic.it) and Humar, in località
Valerisce (www.humar.it).
From San Floriano the beauty of nature stretches amongst vineyards, churches and wineries that frame the uninterrupted sequence of hills. Go down to the Piana del Preval with its beautiful
lake and the Plessiva wood, a nature reserve. Along the route,
near the border, in Località Zegla, 15 - Cormòns you can stop over
at Renato Keber winery (www.renatokeber.com). Continue along
the border to Ruttars, in the Polegna del Collio municipality. Here
we suggest visiting La Rajade winery in Località Petrus, 2 (www.
larajade.it) and Pascolo Alessandro winerg , in Località Ruttars,
1 (www.vinipascolo.com) or wine-producer Jermann, in Località
Trussio, 11. A worthy stop is in Mernico, at Ferruccio Sgubin
(www.ferrucciosgubin.it).
Travel back through Craoretto and Brazzano, where Livio Felluga
winery is located (www.liviofelluga.it) until you reach the centre
of Cormòns, a reference town for wine making. Discover the artistic winery Cantina Produttori Cormòns, in via Vino della Pace,
31 (www.cormons.com). In the green and pastoral town Pradis,
at number 6, we find Paolo Caccese winery (www.paolocaccese.
it). Follow indications for Gorizia to Capriva surrounded by hills
covered with vineyards where you can admire the magnificent
Castello di Spessa (www.castellodispessa. it) and the nearby Fondazione Villa Russiz (www.villarussiz.it). In Capriva, plenty of
opportunities for wine tasting in the cellars; in via Palazzo Arcivescovile, 1 we find Mario Schiopetto (www.schiopetto. it) and in
via Aquileia, 30 Conti Attems (www.attems.it). The road continues
towards Mossa. We suggest a visit to the Baroni Codelli winery
(www.codelli.it), via Codelli, 15, and Ronco Blanchis, in via Blanchis, 70 (www.venegazzu.com). Going through Lucinico,you return
to Gorizia past Piuma Park along the Isonzo where the route ends.
It is interesting to extend the itinerary in the surrounding area,
up to Farra d’Isonzo, where you can stop at the winery Tenuta
Borgo Conventi, in Strada della Colombara, 13 (www.borgoconventi.it) or Tenuta Villanova, Via Contessa Beretta, 29, or in Mariano,
a hamlet of Corona, in Via Campo Sportivo, Tenuta Luisa (www.
tenutaluisa.com) or in Gradisca, in via Roma, 32 at Blason (www.
blasonwines.com). The highway is in close proximity.
D I S C O V E R ING
TYPICAL PRODUCE
Vinegar
Vinegar is a flavour enhancer for dishes. Despite being present
in many regional recipes, it is often undervalued. Josko Sirk,
restaurateur in Cormòns, is credited for having initiated the use
of high quality artisan vinegar, but starting from the grapes,
Ribolla grapes in particular. The outcome is full-bodied vinegar,
warm and enveloping in taste, which leaves a good persistent
aroma. It is the result of a long nine-month fermentation of
must and wine in contact with the skins in open oak vats, followed by a period of aging in oak barrels that give the vinegar
a balanced taste.
Brovada
Already mentioned by Apicius in the first century A.D. in his
De Re Coquinaria, brovada is the most traditional Friulian vegetable dish, which became DOP (Denomination of Protected
Origin) in 2009. Brovada, thinly sliced purple-collared turnip
soaked in wine grape marc and then cooked, is the ideal side
dish to accompany pork, especially cotechino and zampone. It
originates as a food reserve for the cold autumn and winter
months and is prepared in compliance with traditional criteria connected to the culture of wine. The turnips, which are
white inside, are washed and macerated in vats, alternating
layers of red grapes marc, which gives them their rosé colour.
Fermentation time for the turnips varies from 35 to 40 days.
After this phase, they are removed, peeled, cut into thin slices with a typical wooden grater (called grati) or with special
machines, and packed in 1 kg bags. They are cooked as a
traditional Friulian side dish for musetto (brovada e muset)
or with beans. The “Associazione per la valorizzazione del
prodotto tradizionale Brovada” (Association for the promotion of Brovada as a traditional product) was founded in
June 2003.
Cheese
Traditional latteria (dairy) cheese is made in all the dairies in
Friuli Venezia Giulia. In the Province of Gorizia, there are still
local artisan dairies that continue the bond between the product and the territory by using fresh milk from Italian “pezzata
rossa” cows, bred mainly with local feed. Ricotta, caciotte,
yogurt and cheese flavoured with sage, rosemary, elder and
other herbs are some of the noteworthy dairy products of the
area. Ricotta (scotta, skuta), regardless of its origin, can be
eaten fresh, smoked or seasoned. The organoleptic characteristics of fresh ricotta are colour and softness: white, especially
those from goat milk, and a soft almost velvety texture. It has
a sweet taste of cooked milk. The Fossa of Cormòns cheese
made with whole milk of cows grazing on the high Julian Alps
is also noteworthy.
Fruit
The climate, the location, the soil and the sun in the Isonzo
area offer favourable conditions for many fruit varieties.
Fruit of excellent quality, rich in sugar and aromatic substances is produced in these particular microclimatic conditions. Peach, apricot, pear, apple, cherry, plums, persimmon
and fig are the most common and typical fruit trees in the
border region. The fruit is good to eat fresh as well as processed into very popular juices, jams, compotes, fruit wines,
grappa and jellies. The Collio cherry is among the first spring
produce and deserves a special mention. Cherries and wine
were the main trade in the Vipacco Valley and Goriska Brda
area towards the end of the nineteenth century. Cherries
have always been the engine of the local economy, especially
in the most difficult post-war years.
Mushrooms
Mushroom production in the Gorizia area started several
years ago. Their ideal habitat is an environment with special
conditions of humidity, sunlight and temperature. Champignon and pioppini mushrooms are the most common. The
pioppini have an unmistakable dark brown cap and slender
and consistent stem with an aromatic flavour that makes
them very popular.
Gubana
The etymology of the name is probably related to the Slovenian verb gubati, "ruffle, to make folds", with reference to its
preparation and its origin in the Friulian Slavia, the current
territory of the Natisone and Torre valleys and the Collio
municipalities neighbouring Slovenia. Gubana has become
the symbol of traditional Friulian cuisine and the folds of
its rolled dough with a soft filling of nuts, raisins, pine nuts,
walnuts, grated lemon peel and a touch of grappa enclose
all the traditional flavours with hints of citrus and spice.
It is enticing in autumn and winter, very pleasant in spring
and summer and represents a typical dessert for festivities.
A 1714 poem in Friulian is the first official document that
mentions the gubana: it tells of Easter celebrations based
on “us di pascha benediz [...] vin, trippuzzis di chiauret and
gubanis cu'l savor”.
The filling of the gubana is also used to make strucchi, the
traditional square shaped nugget or crescent ravioli. The
Gorizia gubana is made with puff pastry.
Some families still moisten the gubana slices with slivovitz
(plum brandy) but it weighs down the balance. In fact, it
must be accompanied by a good glass of neutral white wine
or verduzzo, a sweet white wine aged in wood.
Oil
The Gorizia area boasts the production of valuable autochthonous extra virgin olive oil that is the result of the pressing
of a variety called Briška crnica or carbona. In recent years,
some local producers have become interested in the reintroduction of some autochthonous strains of the Collio of
Gorizia, which had disappeared after the big freeze in1929.
Lavender
Lavandula officinalis is the most cultivated lavender species:
it is an aromatic plant with characteristic blue and lilac flowers. It is rich in beneficial properties and has been used for
personal care and beauty since ancient times. It seems that
ancient Romans also used it to scent their bathing water. Lavender flowers are very versatile: they can be picked and left
to dry after having made little bunches and then used to compose small decorations or put in little bags to scent closets and
drawers. They are also base components for the preparation
of oleic products, essential oils, floral scented water, infusions
and healing teas.
The cultivation of fragrant lavender in Gorizia started again
in 1994 when Luigia Zian and her family decided to cultivate
this produce.
Honey
The Gorizia Collio and the Karst are privileged zones for
producing honey of great merit. Beekeepers in Gorizia set
up the Cooperative «La Casa dell’Ape» in Lucinico (Gorizia) in 1993. They have acquired extensive experience over
the years and have selected varieties with particular characteristics and beneficial organoleptic properties. «La Casa
dell’Ape» is proud of its lime, sumac honeydew from the
shrub that colours the Karst deep red, the rare cherry, dandelion, acacia, wild flower and other special honey.
Pelinkovac
This is a typical Gorizia Amaro (bitter), particularly common
across the border in Slovenia where it is called “Pelinkovec” and
in Croatia “Pelinkovac”.
Pelinkovac is distilled liquor made from wormwood (pelin in Slovenian) and other plant species that have made a comeback in
recent years and it is an excellent digestive. It should be drunk
straight or with ice and a slice of lemon. It is liquor extracted
from the bitter Artemisia Absinthium plant. Many products help
digestion, from drugs to simple baking soda, natural remedies,
bitters and grappa, but many guests in trattorie and restaurants
in and around Gorizia know that the most effective digestive is
precisely Pelinkovac. A well-known producer of this digestive is
Abuja, founded by Andrea I Abuja in 1899 when he arrived in
Gorizia from Carinthia. His company became one of the largest
wine and liquor producers in Central Europe.
In addition to being distributors and representatives of various
famous brands, Abuja bought grape must from wine producers
of the Collio to then make wine in his own cellars and export it
to Europe and the Americas.
Prosciutto or Cured ham
Speaking of Cormòns prosciutto, means speaking about
D’Osvaldo.
In the twenties, Luigi and his sister Anna introduced a real
innovation for producing cured meats: the smoking processing. Smoking by placing a pot of water full of herbs collected
in the surrounding woods (melissa, lemon verbena, fennel,
rosemary, thyme) on a fire burning cherry wood scented with
rosemary and laurel branches gives the meat a unique touch.
Aging takes place in a natural manner in the countryside
by opening and closing windows and using the breeze from
Mount Quarin for a period ranging from 14 to 24 months.
The quality of Duroc pigs is also important. Their pear shaped
thigh is particularly suitable for the pressing operation that
allows the ham to be shaped for the best hand slicing and enhances the quality of this superb ham and speck (bacon).
Radicchio of Gorizia
This tasty first yield radicchietto first produced in the flooded
orchards of Sant’Andrea and San Rocco north of Gorizia,
has spread to other areas. There are two typical and valued
varieties: the Canarino and the Rosa of Gorizia. The Canarino is delicate and has yellow nuances whereas the Rosa di
Gorizia has a deep red colour with bright variegations that
turn pink and has the shape of a freshly blossomed bud. It
is winter produce, which comes on the market ready to be
consumed, to be kept in the refrigerator or in a cool place; on
some farms it is also preserved in oil. The Rosa of Gorizia has
an intense slightly bitter flavour. It pairs well with the sweetness of potatoes or grated Seuka apple, but also with borlotti
beans. Excellent with boiled eggs. The Canarino is sweeter,
very delicate but crunchy and is delicious plainly dressed.
Vegetables
Sant’Andrea asparagus is typically from the Gorizia area and
is cultivated in autumn around to St Andrew’s Day (November
30th). They are boiled and served with breadcrumbs browned in
butter or in a tangy egg sauce.
Vržota, Sant’Andrea cabbage is also cultivated in the vegetable
gardens in Sant’Andrea and is the symbol of local farmers.
Wines
We find ourselves in a wine producing area that is unique in the
world, especially for its white wines.
Great autochthonous whites are produced, delicious as aperitifs
and ideal with fish: Tocai (now renamed Friulano), delicious Ribolla, aromatic Malvasia and sweet Verduzzo. The DOC blend
Collio Bianco is also very popular. Pinot Grigio and Bianco, Chardonnay and Sauvignon transalpine vines that have found a perfect terroir and their wines have special aromas and aftertaste.
These whites are pale straw yellow with nuances of green, their
taste is fresh and pleasantly smooth with clear intense fragrances, delicately fruity, hinting at the aromas of the original vine.
Collio Rosso, Merlot and Cabernet are some of the red wines
produced in the area. They have a bright ruby colour, rounded
body and a distinct personality in their bouquet. The microclimatic characteristics enhanced by man’s ability endow these
wines with exceptional qualities.
RECIPES FOR
A TYPICAL LUNCH
G n occh i d i
sus i n e
Plu m d u m pl i ngs
- Serves 6 people
For the dumplings:
500 g potatoes, 150 g flour, 1 egg, salt
Filling:
12 plums, 50 g caster sugar, 3 tablespoons of breadcrumbs, 100 g butter 10 g ground cinnamon
- Preparation
Mash the boiled potatoes and mix with the beaten egg and a knob of
butter, salt to taste and sift the flour gradually. Knead until mixture
is smooth. Roll the dough and cut out 12 discs. On each disc put a plum
without the pit filled with a bit of bread crumbs previously browned
in butter, sugar and cinnamon. Fold and close into dumplings. Seal
the dumplings properly and cook in boiling salted water until they
float. Place on a dish and serve with melted sautéed butter and breadcrumbs. Sprinkle with caster sugar and cinnamon.
Gulasch
- Serves 6 people
1 kg beef (muscle), 2 red onions, 1 tablespoon plain flour 00, 2 bay leaves,
200 g of tomato sauce in jars, 2 tablespoons paprika powder, 5 tablespoons
extra virgin olive oil, salt to taste
- Preparation
Put the onion in a pan with 1 tablespoon of olive oil and 2 tablespoons of
warm water. Cook for 5 minutes until the onion becomes transparent. Cut
the meat into small pieces and add it to the onion and sauté for 10 minutes.
Add paprika, bay leaves and flour. After mixing for a few minutes, add
the tomato puree and hot water to cover the meat. Add salt and cook over
low heat for about three hours, occasionally adding hot water. Serve hot.
P atate i n tec i a
Pan c o o k e d po ta to e s
- Ingredients
800g floury potatoes, 1 onion, chopped parsley, dry white wine, 1 spoonful
of broth, salt and pepper
- Preparation
Boil the potatoes in salted water then peel, slice and sauté in a pan with
the finely chopped onion. Add pepper, salt, wine and broth. Mash them
with a fork and simmer slowly over medium heat until a delicious crust
is formed. Serve hot with a pinch of fresh parsley.
R ad i cch i o R osa
i n v i n a i g rette
- Ingredients
18 buds of ‘Rosa di Gorizia’ radicchio, 1 Renetta apple, 2 sticks of celery,
apple vinegar to taste, 1 dl of extra virgin olive oil, salt and pepper
- Preparation
Wash and slice the radicchio and the celery. Place the vegetables in a
large bowl. Add the peeled and diced apple. Sprinkle with a little oil,
vinegar and salt. Stir and allow the flavours to blend before serving.
P alac i n k e
- Ingredients
For the dough:
250 g flour, 250 ml water, 100 ml sparkling water, 250 ml milk, 1 egg, 1
tablespoon sugar, grated rind of 1/2 lemon, salt, oil (or butter) to grease
For the filling:
Cocoa and hazelnut cream and / or jam, icing sugar (optional)
- Preparation
Beat the egg and sugar in a bowl, slowly adding water and milk. Add the
flour gradually. Add a pinch of salt and grated rind of 1/2 lemon. Stir until
the mixture smoothens and let stand for 30 minutes. Grease a pan with
a knob of butter or oil and heat it. Distribute the batter over the entire
surface. Cook over medium heat. Brown the Palacinke on both sides and
then fill to taste. Before serving, fold into a triangle, a dumpling or a roll
and sprinkle with icing sugar.
The area from patriarchal Cormòns at
the heart of the Collio to San Floriano
del Collio and Gorizia, is particularly
plentiful in restaurants, trattorie, taverns and privade, where visitors can
appreciate the aromas and tastes of
4 [ L U N C H E S A N D D INN E R S ]
simple and traditional dishes, reinvented according to the most modern
concept of genuineness and lightness.
Not surprisingly, the restaurants in
this area are mentioned among the
most famous of the Triveneto and are
nationally top-ranked.
[ brovada ]
This excellent cuisine hails from centuries of intertwined
Friulian, Slovenian and Central European cultures. It is
an unusual and truly unique medley of tastes and aromas. There are numerous restaurants offering specialty
dishes and excellent wine in a wide range of variety and
choice for all tastes and budgets in Gorizia, Gradisca and
Cormòns.
It is difficult to make a choice. We have listed some restaurants within a few kilometres from the Villesse-Gorizia
tollgate. It will also be pleasant to drive around and discover the whole food and wine selection or just stop at a
“frasca” i.e. a branch that marks the presence of a place
to eat and drink. Below you will find a selection of places
with a brief description. Prices for complete meals are
stated next to summary information: € less than 25 euro,
€€ 25 to 50 euro, €€€ over 50 euros.
4.LUNCHES AND DINNERS
[ G O R IZI A ]
trattor i a alla lu n a
This trattoria has been a locanda since 1827 and has been
property of the Pintar family since 1956. A sign outside
reads: “Welcome to our Central European home, traveller”.
It is a lovely little place, cosy and unusual in its decor. The
old kitchen utensils and objects hanging from the ceiling or
placed on the furniture create a border area atmosphere.
The tables are laid tastefully and creatively. It offers Central
European and traditional cuisine served by dining room staff
in traditional Gorizia dress. The wine list boasts a selection
of the best Collio wines.
Trattoria Alla Luna
Via Oberdan, 13
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 530374 - 335 6652437
Price: €
Closed: Sunday evening and Monday
Seats: 60
Booking advised.
How to arrive
Exit Gorizia, 5.1 km / 9 min
R ose n bar
This is a place in the centre
of Gorizia where you can
enjoy refined yet simple and
authentic delicacies.
The restaurant serves fine
dishes made with fresh
ingredients and the first yields
from vegetable gardens in
Gorizia as well as fresh fish of
the Adriatic.
Local seasonal products are
used in the kitchen.
The professionally served
dishes convey care, passion
and experience. Canoce
(mantis shrimp) with zucchini,
telline clams with pea soup,
octopus and chickpeas,
breaded sardines with
radicchio and beans are
delicious.
Rosenbar
Via Duca d’Aosta, 96
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 522700
www.rosenbar.it
[email protected]
Price: €€
Closed: Sunday and Monday
Seats: 50
Booking advised.
B or g o
C astello 2 3
This new small and cosy
place is in the enchanting
setting of Borgo Castello.
It offers a pleasant, warm
and nice ambience. Special
mention goes to the tartare
and the black Irish Angus
fillet paired with a glass of
good Verduzzo. There are
also Regional dishes like
jota and bavettine pasta
with lightly smoked Sauris
ham. The cellar offers a
selection of the best local
wines as well as wines from
Tuscany, Piedmont and
France.
Borgo Castello 23
Borgo Castello, 23
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 538528
Price: €
Closed: Monday
Seats: 20
Booking advised.
How to arrive
How to arrive
A l ch i ostro
This elegant and cosy place is
located under the porticoes
of the choreographic Piazza
Sant’Antonio in the centre
of Gorizia. The menu offers
a wide choice of refined
regional dishes like wild boar
goulash, bread dumplings
with speck and risotto with
sea bream fillet served with
polenta. There is a wide
selection of wines.
Al chiostro
Piazza Sant’Antonio, 10
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 536430
Price: €
Closed: Monday evening and Tuesday
Seats: 85
Booking advised.
How to arrive
T rattor i a D a
M ajda
The Majda restaurant and
winebar is located in the
centre of Gorizia. It has a
warm family ambience and
serves typically Friulian
dishes with some variations
from Slovenia. Creative
reinterpretations make dishes
richer. Worthy of mention
is the sea bream carpaccio,
Robespierre fillet and slikrofi
pasta (bread pasta) filled with
potatoes, chives and bacon.
The Majda apple pie made
with the traditional family
recipe will deliciously end
your meal.
Trattoria Da Majda
Via Duca d’Aosta, 71
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 30871
Price: €€
Closed: Tuesday
Seats: 60
Booking advised.
How to arrive
T rattor i a 1 0 1
A small and welcoming
restaurant, renowned
for tasty fish specialties.
Rich menu of traditional
dishes revisited with great
imagination and creativity.
The main ingredient is
definitely the fish from
the ports of the Adriatic
Sea, but it serves meat and
vegetable first courses as
well. The restaurant also
offers international cuisine,
such as Valencian paella
and couscous with fish and
shellfish.
Trattoria 101
Corso Italia, 145
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481521112
www.locandaristorante101.it
[email protected]
Price: €€
Seats: 50
Booking advised.
T rattor i a D a
Gianni
A renowned and popular
typical Italian trattoria in the
centre of Gorizia. It is famous
for the extra-large portions
of all courses from starters to
desserts.
Best go in a group, and order
the legendary Lubjanska
(breaded veal or pork steak
filled with ham and cheese),
which can easily be shared by
more people.
Trattoria Da Gianni
Via Carlo de Morelli, 10
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 534568
Price: €
Closed: Monday
Seats: 70
Booking advised.
How to arrive
How to arrive
A i tre sold i
g or i z i a n i
A l P o n te del
C alvar i o
The menu of this restaurant
reflects traditional Central
European flavours and
tastes especially Carinthian,
Hungarian, Mediterranean
and Slovenian. It has a small
wine bar serving excellent
wines including several wines
from Friuli Venezia Giulia.
The restaurant is located
on the road leading to San
Floriano del Collio, in a small
valley surrounded by lush
green countryside on the
banks of the Groina river
where trout are bred.
The large garden is
particularly pleasant and
fresh in summer and it is
pleasant to enjoy the dishes
in the shade of a pergola.
It is a cosy and well looked
after place, the ideal starting
point for excursions in the
surroundings. The typical
Italian-Slovenian dishes
paired with local wines make
it an original restaurant.
Ai tre soldi goriziani
Corso Italia, 38
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 531956
www.aitresoldigoriziani.it
Price: €
Closed: Monday
Seats: 50
Booking advised.
How to arrive
Al Ponte del Calvario
Località Vallone delle Acque, 2
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 534428
www.alpontedelcalvario.com
[email protected]
Price: €
Closed: Monday and Tuesday
Seats: 25
Booking advised.
How to arrive
[ n ova g O r i ca ]
L oca n da Ke k ec
The locanda is in Kromberk near Aidussina.
It is situated on a hill with a spectacular view of Nova Gorica.
A beautiful central fireplace is always lit in winter and you
can eat outdoors in summer. The menu offers Slovenian
homemade specialties as well as grilled game and meat.
The most typical dish is steak tartare with warm toasted
bread. Other delicacies are Tolmin steak and Karst fillet and
for dessert the ever-present walnut palacinke.
Locanda Kekec
Kekceva pot 4
5000 Nova Gorica
Tel. 386 (0)53005675
Price: €€
Seats: 115 indoor + 70 in summer garden
Booking advised.
How to arrive
H4, Exit 5, 8.3 km / 16 min
[ R osa di G ori z ia ]
P hoto L uigi Vitale
[ SAN FLORIANO DEL COLLIO ]
O ster i a Kors i c
Osteria Gostilna Korsic is located in the silence of nature
and surrounded by the gentle slopes of the Collio. Enjoy
the flavours of home cooking tastefully enriched with the
genuine produce of this land in a pleasant and peaceful
atmosphere. Some examples? Toc’ in braide (soft polenta, pan
fried radicchio, cheese sauce and guanciale), salami cooked
in vinegar, homemade autumn blecs and wild herb strucolo
(Montasio cheese strudel dressed with butter and sage). You
can enjoy the beauty of the surrounding hills from the large
dining room windows.
Osteria Korsic
Località Sovenza, 7
34070 San Floriano del Collio
Tel. +39 0481 884248
www.korsic.it
[email protected]
Price: €
Closed: Tuesday and Wednesday
Seats: 100
Booking advised.
How to arrive
Vogric
The restaurant offers a
warm and characteristic
ambience on a sunny hill
above generously fruitful
vineyards and orchards.
Enjoy the genuine taste of
typical home cuisine (Italian,
Slovenian, and Austrian) and
tasty grilled meats. The wine
list offers a varied choice of
the most typical local wines.
You can eat outdoors and
enjoy a fabulous view in
summer.
Vogric
Località Giasbana, 20
Tel. +39 0481 884095
www.vogric.it
[email protected]
Price: €
Seats: 60
Booking advised.
How to arrive
[ FARRA
D ' I S O NZ O ]
B or g o C olmello
Borgo Colmello is in a quiet
rural area on the road leading
to Gorizia and is ideal for
those seeking tranquillity
and relaxation. You can eat
in the beautiful garden in
summer and indoors enjoy a
family atmosphere around the
warmth of a typical fogolar.
The wine bar has an excellent
selection of local wines and
the cuisine offers typical
dishes. Buckwheat blecs
with sausage and broccoli,
toc in braide and Frico with
pumpkin are delicious.
Borgo Colmello
Strada della Grotta, 8
Tel. +39 0481 889013
www.borgocolmello.it
[email protected]
Price: €€
Closed: Monday
Seats: 25
Booking advised.
How to arrive
Exit Gradisca d’Isonzo, 3 km / 5 min
[ MOSSA ]
V ecch i e
prov i n ce
It is a cosy country style
place located in the centre
of Mossa. You can eat in
the garden from spring. The
food is tastefully homemade
with persistent and generous
flavours. The different small
portions available will let
you taste several courses
and you will leave appeased
and satisfied. We suggest
Jota, orzotto (barley risotto)
with mushrooms and
spinach gnocchi with melted
butter for your first course.
Excellent local wines are
served with all dishes. The
ingredients used are fresh
and carefully selected.
Vecchie province
Via Zorutti, 18
34070 Mossa
Tel. +39 0481 808693
Price: €
Closed: Monday
Seats: 30
Booking advised.
[ GRADISCA
D ’ I S O NZ O ]
A l P o n te
This hotel/restaurant is
located just outside Gradisca
near the Isonzo bridge
that gives it its name. The
premises are surrounded by
a large park. Dishes taste
typically Friulian in their
blend of fish and traditional
ingredients. The cellar is
stocked mostly with local
wines.
Al Ponte
Viale Trieste, 122
Tel. +39 0481 99213
[email protected]
Price: €€
Closed: Monday evening and Tuesday
Seats: 120
Booking advised.
How to arrive
Exit Gradisca d’Isonzo, 2.4 km / 4 min
How to arrive
[ R O M A N S D ’ I S O NZ O ]
L oca n da C asa V ersa 1 8 3 4
This restaurant is situated in the picturesque rural village of
Versa near Romans d’Isonzo. It serves traditional Friulian
dishes that are carefully prepared and dedicated to the seasons
and to local products. Wild herbs (sclopit, bruscandoli and
urtissons) and local preserved fruit are protagonists in the
kitchen together with vegetables to go with second courses.
Game and produce from the woods (mushrooms, chestnuts)
enhance the polenta. A rustic yet refined locanda in a peaceful
and tranquil setting of flowers, colours and scents of tradition.
Locanda Casa Versa 1834
Via Gorizia, 25/b - Versa
34076 Romans d’Isonzo
Tel. 338 8520246
Price: €€
Seats: 35
Booking advised.
How to arrive
[ CAPRIVA DEL FRIULI ]
R i stora n te
V i n n aer i a L a
B a i ta
It is an elegant, stylish and
bright restaurant. The variety
of dishes ranging from prime
quality meat to fish is very
interesting.
Their recovery of traditional
local dishes such as trippe
alla goriziana, goulash and
cod stew is enjoyable. The
dining hall has large windows
to enjoy the magnificent
panorama while dining.
Ristorante Vinnaeria La Baita
Via degli Alpini, 2
34070 Capriva del Friuli
Tel. +39 0481 881024
www.vinnaerialabaita.it
Price: €€
Closed: Wednesday
Seats: 30
Booking advised.
How to arrive
T aver n etta
al C astello
The ambience recreates
the traditional atmosphere
of old country villas and is
characterised by elegance
and warm hospitality. It is
beautifully decorated in
country-chic style and is
located in converted rural
buildings at the foot of the
Castle in Spessa.
There is a beautiful view of
the hilly landscape and the
golf course green from the
terraces. The excellent local
and international cuisine is
suitable for special occasions.
Tavernetta al Castello
Via Spessa, 7
Tel. +39 0481 808228
[email protected]
Price: €€€
Closed: Monday and Sunday evening
Seats: 100
Booking advised.
How to arrive
[ B R A ZZ A N O D E L C O R M òN S ]
T erra & V i n i
The food, warm hospitality, wines and the smiles of the staff
make Terre & Vini a relaxing and pleasant place to dine or
spend the evening. The building with its inner and outer
stonewalls preserves the charming memory of rural Brazzano,
very close to Cormòns
The cuisine revisits traditional dishes of the old Friulian osterie
based on seasonal and local produce. Regional cheese, salami
and prosciutto tastings, Friulian delicacies and traditional
dishes are paired with the most prestigious wines.
The Osteria leads into a private courtyard overlooking the
vineyards in summer.
Terra & Vini
Via XXIV Maggio
34071 Brazzano di Cormòns
Tel. +39 0481 60028
www.terraevini.it
[email protected]
Price: €€
Closed: Monday
Seats: 40
Booking advised.
How to arrive
[ C O R M òN S ]
T rattor i a A l C acc i atore
- L a S ub i da
Trattoria Al Cacciatore in Subida is one of the most famous
and award-winning restaurants mentioned in guides. It was
opened on Christmas 1960. Josko the owner built cosy
accommodation next to the restaurant in 1987 for a pleasant
stay in the Collio.
Josko’s dishes talk of bordering lands where the Friulian
and the Slovenian cultures meet and merge. The dishes were
gradually refined and softened, without losing the character
and taste of tradition. The cellar offers a wide selection of
carefully chosen wines.
Trattoria Al Cacciatore - La Subida
Via Subida, 52
34071 Cormòns
Tel. +39 0481 60531
www.lasubida.it
[email protected]
Price: €€€
Seats: 80
Booking advised.
How to arrive
F elcaro
G i ard i n etto
The Felcaro family
passionately prepares
Friulian cuisine and dishes
handed down from Habsburg
traditions in a nineteenth
century villa located in the
hamlet of San Giovanni. Your
meal will vary depending on
seasonal produce.
On the last Saturday of
Carnival, do not miss the
lavish «Vecchie province
Austriache» party. Enjoy the
fabulous Austrian evening
that has been held for many
years with a typical Central
European menu, themed
costumes and Viennese
waltzes.
An elegant, warm and refined
place located in Cormòns
town centre. The food is
definitely prime choice with
meticulously prepared local
seasonal ingredients served
by Paolo the chef, who also
appeared on the TV contest
called “Prova del Cuoco”. The
selection on the wine list is
remarkable.
Felcaro
Via San Giovanni, 45
34071 Cormòns
Tel. +39 0481 63025
www.hotelfelcaro.it
Price: €€
Closed: Monday
Seats: 335
Booking advised.
Giardinetto
Via Matteotti, 54
34071 Cormòns
Tel. +39 0481 60257
www.ir.europe.com/algiardinetto
Price: €€€
Seats: 30
Booking advised.
How to arrive
How to arrive
[MUSHROOMS]
Photo Alessandro C astiglioni
[ D O L E GN A D E L C O L L I O ]
A l C ja n t dal
R us i g n ul
This restaurant is located
in the Mernico hamlet
surrounded by nature. It
has a sophisticated, warm
and enveloping identity,
embellished by a bright and
recently renovated ambience.
It is ideal for parties,
weddings and business
meetings in the main dining
hall with its warm fireplace or
elegant and romantic dinners
in the small dining room.
Excellent local products,
accompanied by wines from
Ferruccio Sgubin winery.
Al Cjant dal Rusignul
Località Mernico, 2
34070 Dolegna del Collio
Tel. +39 0481 60452
www.ferrucciosgubin.it
[email protected]
Price: €€
Closed: Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday
Seats: 50
Booking advised.
C astello
d i T russ i o
dell ’ A q u i la
d ’ O ro
This elegant and refined
restaurant is situated on a
panoramic and historical site
in the heart of the Collio in a
refurbished 1200 manor.
It is one of the most famous
places mentioned in guides
and features imaginative
regional cuisine. The wines
are excellent and renowned.
It is suitable for special
occasions.
Castello di Trussio dell’Aquila d’Oro
Località Ruttars, 11
Tel. +39 0481 61255
Price: €€€
Seats: 60
Booking advised.
How to arrive
How to arrive
Shopping opportunities in the Isonzo
area are definitely plentiful.
For those in search of local products
and produce, here below is a list of
stores selling food and wine specialities, in addition to several wineries,
cold meat delicatessens and dairies.
5 [ shopp i n g ]
Special mention goes to the genuine
artisans who are specialists in creating
tastes. Entering any of these places
means entering the world of all those
who have made this a remarkable
territory and discovering a world of
work, hopes, skills and passion.
[ G ori z ia . C entre ]
Photo Massimo C rivellari
[ g or i z i a ]
M ercato
coperto
Housed in a beautiful
Austro-Hungarian building,
between Corso Verdi and via
Boccaccio, the Gorizia indoor
market is an absolute must
for every gourmet.
The indoor market sells fruit,
vegetables, herbs, certified
local products as well as
spices and aromas fill the
air from early morning. It is
ideal to savour the variety
and freshness of agricultural
produce in Gorizia.
The market is surrounded by
small shops where you can
find meat, fish, fresh bread
and other local specialties.
Mercato coperto
Via Boccaccio
34170 Gorizia
How to arrive
A z i e n da
A g r i cola Z i a n
Luigia
Lavender is a plant that
can be used as a decorative
element, relaxing drink,
medicine, ingredient in
recipes and for household
care and hygiene. At Zian
Luigia farm, they decided
several years ago to exploit
this plant also in the Isontino
area. Lavender is grown in
the fields around Gorizia in
the Mount Sabotino area
where well-drained soil, sun
and good ventilation create
and ideal microclimate.
Scent-bags, gift packages,
bonboniere (or favours)
made with fresh or dried
lavender are on sale in the
farm store.
Azienda Agricola Zian Luigia
Via Brigata Etna, 3
34170 Gorizia
Tel. 328 1764998
www.profumodilavanda.it
[email protected]
How to arrive
5 . shopping
P ast i ccer i a
ce n trale
Il F or n a i o
Discover local and
international pastries,
cakes, bread and the Gorizia
Gubana, packed in an
elegant Jugenstil box, in
this patisserie located in the
centre of Gorizia next to
the theatre. Each product is
carefully presented and the
ambience is relaxing and
pleasant.
The bakery was started in
1935 by Olivio Cozzutti and
Laura Ermacora. Bread was
the main activity and the
numerous different types
are still produced in the
traditional way. Breadsticks
are made following an
ancient recipe. The names of
the pastries cover the whole
alphabet from amaretti to
zuccotti.
Pasticceria centrale
Via Garibaldi, 4
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 530131
www.pasticceriapanificiocentrale.it
Il Fornaio
Panificio Pasticceria Claudio Cozzutti
Via Garzarolli, 195
34170 Gorizia
www.ilfornaiocozzutti.com
How to arrive
How to arrive
T orrefa z i o n e
C aff è
Gor i z i a n a
Torrefazione Caffè Goriziana
was founded in 1967 and
has acquired considerable
expertise in coffee
preparation. It was first
opened in a small workshop
in 1990 and then moved
to its present location in
via Terza Armata. The
company history boasts two
significant milestones: the
partnership between the
Crobe and Rogelja families
in 1994 and the acquisition
of the historical San Giusto
di Gorizia coffee roasting
company, which had been
present throughout the
Region with its products and
its history since 1951. The
company supplies a wide
range of selected products
on international markets.
It is in a position to meet
anyone’s demands including
public bars and cafes.
Torrefazione Caffè Goriziana
Via Terza Armata, 91
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 522132
Fax +39 0481 522141
www.caffegoriziana.com
[email protected]
How to arrive
C aff è M att i o n i
Torrefazione Mattioni boasts
the longest coffee processing
tradition in Friuli Venezia
Giulia as it was founded
in 1922 in Via Garibaldi
in Gorizia. The modern
industrial plant is currently
located in the industrial area.
The coffee-making process
is always based on the skilful
blend of excellent quality
coffee.
Caffè Mattioni
Via Terza Armata, 133
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 521444
Fax +39 0481 522878
www.caffemattioni.it
[email protected]
How to arrive
5 . shopping
A urea s . r . l .
R ad i k o n
The company produces
artisan pasta, slowly
dehydrated at low
temperatures, short durum
wheat flour pasta extruded
through Teflon and bronze
dies and a range of egg
pasta nests. It uses modern
technology yet retains
the characteristics of an
artisan pasta factory to offer
excellent products made
exclusively with Italian
durum wheat flour.
The factory outlet is open in
the morning (8:30 to 12:00).
The winery is located on the
Oslavia high ground. The
approximately ten- hectare
vineyard is on steep downhill
slopes that are strenuous to
work but generous in quality.
The winemaking process is
environmentally friendly and
based on principles of total
naturalness. This natural
sulphite-free wine has been
produced since 1999.
Aurea s.r.l.
Via Gregoric, 27
34170 Gorizia
www.pastaaurea.com
Radikon
Località Tre Buchi, 4
34170 Gorizia
Tel. +39 0481 32804
www.radikon.it
[email protected]
How to arrive
How to arrive
[ L U C INI C O ]
M aceller i a
C ar g n el
Vinicio
Cargnel butchery is located
in Lucinico, on the outskirts
of Gorizia and is now in its
third generation with Vinicio.
Grandfather Virgilio, who
started his activity under
the Hapsburg Empire, had
learnt the butcher’s art as
an apprentice at the time of
Austrian Gorizia. After the
First World War, in which he
was a Hapsburg soldier on the
Russian front, he returned to
Lucinico where he opened the
first butchery in 1920. The
practice was handed down to
his son Marino, his daughterin-law Rosaria and then to his
grandson Vinicio.
C ooperat i va
A p i coltor i L a
casa dell ’ ape
This Cooperative produces
all kinds of typical honey
from the Collio, Isonzo and
Gorizia Karst areas under
the brand «La casa dell’ape».
The products are sold to
the public in local grocery
shops and CoopConsumatori
supermarkets.
Cooperativa Apicoltori La casa dell’ape
Via Cicuta, 1
34170 Lucinico
Tel. +39 0481 535624
How to arrive
Macelleria Cargnel Vinicio
Piazza San Giorgio, 9/a
34170 Lucinico
Tel. +39 0481 392322
www.macelleriacargnel.it
How to arrive
5 . shopping
[ MEDEA ]
L i s R os i s
The family owned farm
covers an area of 18
hectares. White asparagus is
grown and harvested from
April to late May.
The farm breeds chickens,
ducks and rabbits as well as
Suffolk pigs. It has been an
Educational Farm since 2006.
The farm shop sells produce
directly to the public.
Lis Rosis
Via Trieste, 15
34076 Medea
Tel. +39 0481 676900
www.lisrosis.it
[email protected]
How to arrive
[ GRADISCA
D ’ I S O NZ O ]
B laso n
The farm is run by
Giovanni, his family and his
collaborators. The vineyards
are located along the banks
of the Isonzo river. The
historical home on the farm
was registered in 1764 as
“House in Bruma n. 23” and
it is surrounded by secular
trees and a majestic cedar
tree. It has given its name to
the farm’s main produce. At
the back, beyond the portico
passageway with the entrance
to the wine shop, there is a
farm cart with barrels and a
number of historical objects
used in agriculture and during
wartime, which tell the
history of these borderlands.
Azienda Agricola Blason di Blason
Giovanni
Via Roma, 32
Tel. +39 0481 92414
www.blasonwines.com
[email protected]
How to arrive
[ C O R M òN S ]
B or g da O cjs
The Zoff family farm with its cheese factory, farm shop and
farmhouse accommodation is located at the end of a long
road in the shade of magnificent trees in the small hamlet
of Borgnano a few kilometres from Cormòns. The cheese
is made exclusively with Italian Pezzata Rossa raw milk
processed directly in the modern dairy. Ancient traditional
techniques are used to rediscover the genuineness of flavours
from the past. The farm makes Latteria cheese, ricotta, Primo
sale, mozzarella, hand-made cream butter, yogurt (natural,
white, whole) as well as caciotta flavoured with rose petals,
elderflower, thyme, peppermint, mallow, marigold, sage,
rosemary and basil.
Borg da Ocjs
Azienda Agricola Zoff Giuseppe
Agriturismo Borg da Ocjs
Via Parini, 18 - Borgnano
34071 Cormòns
www.formaggizoff.it
[email protected]
[email protected]
How to arrive
5 . shopping
C a n t i n a P roduttor i C ormò n s
The Cantina Produttori Cormòns groups more than two
hundred smallholding winemakers. Founded at the end of the
sixties thanks to the foresight of some Cormòns winemakers,
it is one of the most renowned in the area for the quality of its
wines and for events especially related to the Vino della Pace.
The “Vigna del mondo” with over 400 vines from the five
continents grows around the winery and gives life to the “Wine
of Peace”, which is sent to heads of State around the world
every year as an invitation to peace and brotherhood. The
wine shop on the premises sells a vast selection of local and
regional Italian wines as well as those from across the border.
The wines of Cantina Produttori Cormòns and other genuine
Friulian specialties can be tasted at the Osteria Cantiniere in
Borgnano, via Bellini 61.
Cantina Produttori Cormòns
Via Vino della Pace, 31
34071 Cormòns
Tel. +39 0481 60579
www.cormons.com
How to arrive
P rosc i utt i f i c i o
L ore n z o
D ’ O svaldo
The Company was founded
in 1940 in Cormòns by Luigi
D’Osvaldo, who started
a small ham production
alongside his butchery. He
produces slightly smoked
prosciutto, sweet ham,
speck and pancetta with
rib meat following ancient
Hapsburg traditions. Hams
are produced with fresh legs
of pigs bred and selected
in Friuli Venezia Giulia and
are naturally aged from
16 to 24 months. They are
characterised by a light and
delicate smoky fragrance,
and the taste retains an
exquisite sweetness.
Prosciuttificio Lorenzo D’Osvaldo
Via Dante, 40
34071 Cormòns
Tel. +39 0481 61644
www.dosvaldo.it
[email protected]
A ceto S i r k
Sirk, a well-known
restaurateur, started his
high quality wine vinegar
production using whole
white grapes. The grapes,
once destalked, are left to
ferment in vats so that they
first become wine and then
vinegar after 12 months. The
quality of the grapes and
long contact with their skins
contribute to the making of
a full-bodied product that is
very persistent and rich in
minerals. Aging for three or
four years in small fully filled
barrels intensifies aromas
and bouquet before bottling.
Aceto Sirk
Via Subida, 54
34071 Cormòns
Tel. +39 0481 60531
www.acetosirk.it
[email protected]
How to arrive
How to arrive
5 . shopping
Ka n d i e ,
A z i e n da
A g r i cola d i
S tecch i n a
F ab i o
Here you can find typical
local carafe and bottled
wines. Kandie is a small
winery with a few-hectare
vineyard, but Fabio’s passion
and skills are great. Grapes
are traditionally handharvested and wines are
bottled without undergoing
any type of filtration and
thus maintain ancient
bouquets.
Magnàs
Magnas farm is a pleasant
family farm where traditions
and love for the land and
wine have been handed down
from father to son for years.
Quality bottled Isonzo Doc
wines and jams are produced
and sold.
Magnàs
Loc. Corona-Boatina, 47
34071 Cormòns
Tel. +39 0481 60991
www.magnas.it
How to arrive
Kandie, Azienda Agricola
di Stecchina Fabio
Via Brazzano, 46
34071 Cormòns
Tel. + 39 0481 6258347
How to arrive
T e n uta d i
A n g or i s
Visit the farm shop located
in the old winemaking cellar
in the picturesque setting of
Villa Locatelli just a few steps
from the current offices.
You can buy various products
and live the experience of
tasting historical wines (not
for sale). Antique agricultural
tools are exhibited.
Tenuta di Angoris
Loc. Angoris, 7
34071 Cormòns
Tel. +39 0481 60923
[email protected]
How to arrive
A z i e n da
a g r i cola
W alter
F eres i n
Walter Feresin is an artisan of
typical cold meats from the
Cormòns area. His estate is
surrounded by a landscaped
vineyard set in the rural
tranquillity of San Quirino.
He is the leader of an initiative
that has attracted supporters
of farming traditions as
well as food and wine
connoisseurs for years. He, his
wife Gianna and their children
have set up a successful top
ranked agritourism farm
where a traditional festival is
held on the day after Easter
Monday every year. Their
homemade dishes and cold
meats including traditional
salami and different varieties
of pancetta are delicious.
Azienda agricola Walter Feresin
Località S. Quirino 7/bis
34071 Cormòns
Tel. +39 0481 62119
How to arrive
5 . shopping
[ CAPRIVA
DEL FRIULI ]
[ D O L E GN A
DEL COLLIO ]
W i n e S tore
C asa n ova
T russ
V i n othe k
Wine Store Casanova is
located in the former stables
adjacent the Castle where
you can buy typical regional
products including wines
from Castello di Spessa, Doc
Collio, Doc Isonzo, grappa
and distillates.
Jermann winery has opened
new elegant and innovative
winemaking premises with
an adjacent wine-shop that
sells wines of excellence. The
estate is located in Trussio.
It merges traditional and
historical production
methods with modern yet
always environmentally
respectful technologies.
Wine Store Casanova
Via Spessa, 1
Tel. +39 0481 808124
[email protected]
How to arrive
Truss Vinothek
Punto vendita Jermann
Località Trussio, 11 - Ruttars
Tel. +39 0481 888080
[email protected]
How to arrive
V e n i ca & V e n i ca
The Doc winery is set in the
middle of the Collio.
A smooth generational
turnover took place in
1930. Passion, sacrifices and
successes spent in synergy
with the fascinating Collio as
well as continuous, unceasing
love for vineyards and grapes
have been standard features
for more than eighty years.
Venica & Venica
Via Mernico, 42
Tel. +39 0481 61264
www.venica.it
How to arrive
[ SAN FLORIANO
DEL COLLIO ]
Komja n c
d i A less i o
Komja n c e
F i g l i ss
The farm produces and sells
typical Collio DOC wines,
grappa and oil. The Komjanc
family is passionately
devoted to viticulture, their
main activity, carried out in
respect for their homeland
environment.
Komjanc di Alessio Komjanc e Figli ss
Località Giasbana, 35
Tel. +39 0481 391228
[email protected]
How to arrive
5 . shopping
[ B R A ZZ A N O ]
Zor z o n d i
Deganis
G i or g i o
The family-run farm
surrounded by green hills
and unique landscapes
is located in the heart
of the Collio. It boasts a
long tradition as it was
opened at the beginning of
the twentieth century by
Luigi, the current owner’s
grandfather. You can take
a tour of the winery, attend
wine tastings and purchase
bottled DOC wines.
Accommodation facilities
are on Domus Rustica
holiday farm.
Zorzon di Deganis Giorgio
34071 Brazzano di Cormòns
Via Sottomonte, 75
Tel. +39 0481 60288
www.zorzon.it
[email protected]
A HUGE
S H O P P ING
MALL
Tiare Shopping Mall is
located next to Gorizia
at the junction between
the A4 highway, SS351
road and the State H4
that connects the city to
Slovenia. It is considered
the first family-friendly
shopping mall in Italy
to have integrated an
Ikea store. It is a new
commercial setup in its
core idea and is a perfect
place for a shopping
experience. Tiare
Shopping Mall has a large
bright design and plenty
of children’s play areas
that make it an ideally
relaxing destination for
families to shop and
spend leisure time.
How to arrive
“Travels are travellers”
Fernando Pessoa
In the past, wayfarers who walked
across the Medieval contrade
in Friuli would often come across a Glisiut (cesiol
in Venetian dialect). A small votive chapel situated
at the main crossroads that offered shelter.
The inscriptions that can still be read,
invited travellers to rest, meditate and pray.
A way to recover strength and thoughts and then
continue the journey with renewed spirit.
Today our journeys are characterised by speed:
technology is our unavoidable companion.
This guide aims to recover a forgotten sense
and invites modern travellers to slow down, observe
and learn. Even for you, as it was for the ancient
traveller, the journey will be easier after these rests.
Autovie Venete
0432 925111 - 040 3189235
www.autovie.it
➡
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