Leisure - Maddalena Delli
Transcript
Leisure - Maddalena Delli
www.vivifirenze.it Save €€€s with our discount coupons living & studying in Tuscany March April 2004 distributed free Spring great days out in Tuscany Easter why the fire cart explodes Diet MEGA REVIEW the benefits of Mediterranean eating Contents Culture 4 FIRENZE Botticelli at Palazzo Strozzi; plus the ongoing exhibitions at Palazzo Medici Riccardi and other events you shouldn't miss OutofTown 10 Make the best of the spring with some great days out among art treasures and a glorious countryside ItalianStyle 16 An insider's guide to the secrets of the Murano glassmaking tradition, plus all you need to know about Women's Day celebrations Folklore 23 In Florence the year began in March. Also, the Fire Cart tradition in Florence and the Via Crucis re-enactment at Grassina Leisure 34 St. Patrick's celebrations in Florence; the history of Florence-born Negroni cocktail; plus the art of matching pasta and sauce types Wellness 48 The dietary benefits of Mediterranean style eating. Also, some advice on how to rediscover the joy of an energetic body Services 56 Selected services for students' needs and pleasure, including an exciting netgamers' meeting place Maps 58 The main monuments in the city center and how to get there with the Ataf network of ecological bus lines vivifirenze Year #2 – Issue #2 (March - April 2004) free magazine for international students also published online at www.vivifirenze.it Editorial office: Maddalena Delli [email protected] Advertising inquiries: [email protected] Graphic Design: Pietro Salvadori [email protected] Cover: Detail from Sandro Botticelli’s “Primavera” at the Uffizi Gallery (courtesy of Archivio Fotografico Becocci) The Publisher is available to acknowledge the authoriship and author’s rights of any photos whose source it has not been possible to trace While every care has been taken to ensure accuracy, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or changes in the information provided Published by MEGA REVIEW S.r.l. Tel +39.055.4288418 Via Roma 19/21r, tel. 055.217826/7/8 email:[email protected] open everyday 10-19 Sunday 11-19 www.luisaviaroma.com Culture Culture A major exibition on the best-loved Renaissance painter Botticelli 500 years after by Maddalena Delli fter being dispersed for five centuries, some of the most important works by Sandro Botticelli are back in Florence for the major exhibition held at Palazzo Strozzi to honour one of the major contenders for best-loved artist of the Renaissance. A A monographic exhibition on Botticelli (Florence, 1445 - 1510) was held at the Musée du Luxembourg in Paris from September 2003 until February 2004. It now transfers to Florence, further enriched with several more loans from all over S. Botticelli - Mystic Nativity S. Botticelli - Storia di Nastagio degli Onesti Filippino Lippi Allegory of love the world. Unlike the Paris show, the Palazzo Strozzi exhibition has a coprotagonist, since it also aims to investigate the intricate relationship between Botticelli himself and his pupil Filippino Lippi (Prato, ca. 1457 – Florence, 1504), who was also the son of Botticelli's own master, Filippo Lippi. Important Botticelli paintings from several collections in Florence are Figure this! Understandably, this is considered the exhibition of the year, not just in Florence but on an international level. The numbers reveal an astonishing organizational effort and prove an unprecedented international get<4> together to make available as many works as possible: over 60 pieces have been gathered, including 25 paintings by Botticelli, 16 by Filippino and several important drawings. In fact the figures paid to insure the paintings – notably the Mystic Nativity from the National Gallery in London, Botticelli's only signed and dated work – seem to confirm this: the total value of insurance for the works on display nears the incredible amount of 500 million Euros, arguably the highest figure ever reached for an art exhibition. This is even more astonishing if you consider that both the Primavera and the Birth of Venus – Botticelli's most famous works – are not included in the lot, since they will remain in their natural setting, the Botticelli Room in the Uffizi Gallery. exhibited at Palazzo Strozzi alongside works which have been away for centuries, or in some case only just discovered, as in with the Botticelli painting found in Edinburgh in 1998. Other works come from museums in London, Moscow, Madrid, Paris, Ajaccio, Milan, Naples, New York, Boston, Chicago and several private collections. Also significant to understand the cultural context in which Botticelli and Filippino lived and operated is the presence of works by artists close to their cultural sphere, such as Piero di Cosimo and Leonardo da Vinci. The Filippino section also displays several important loans including the Pietà from Washington, the Portrait of a Musician from In the light of the most Dublin, the Noli me recent studies on tangere from the the work of Seminario PatriarBotticelli and the cale of Venice 15th century in and the Tondo Florence, the Corsini, from exhibition the Cassa di presents the Risparmio di most sigFirenze colnificant lection. The themes of exhibition Botticelli's art aims to conand retraces vince the pubhis stylistic evolic of what exlution. In fact, the perts have been bringing together of stating for some so many works by this time: although little great master enables known to the many, Filipdirect comparFilippino Lippi - Angelo annunciante pino is no lesser isons which have genious than his never been possible until today. From celebrated master. After all, Botticelli the early works in the style of Filippo himself was almost forgotten from his Lippi, the the display leads us death until the early 20th century: through to the masterpieces of could this be Filippino's big chance Botticelli's maturity at the time of for a major comeback? Lorenzo il Magnifico and finally to Botticelli e Filippino. L'inquietudine e the later paintings, whose uneasiness la grazia nella pittura fiorentina del reflects the disturbance and lacera'400 is at Palazzo Strozzi (piazza tions brought to Florence by the Strozzi) from 11th March to 11th July. preachings of Fra' Gerolamo Daily opening 9am to 9pm (Fri to Sun Savonarola. Hence the subtitle of late closing at 11pm) the exhibition, “Uneasiness and grace in 15th century Florentine painting.” Info and bookings 055.2660278 or www.botticellipalazzostrozzi.it To illustrate Botticelli's varied activity there will also be the drawings he more on made for Dante's Divina Commedia. < vivifirenze.it > <5> Culture behind the scenes at Palazzo Medici Riccardi Secret Rooms Part II by Maddalena Delli ike every blockbuster, last year's much-appreciated Stanze segrete (Secret Rooms) exhibition at Palazzo Medici Riccardi in Florence has a sequel. The project aims to make the hidden treasures of the Medici family mansion known to the Florentines and visitors alike. L Built in 1444 by Michelozzo for Cosimo the Elder in via Larga (now via Cavour) in the immediate neighborhood of the family church of San Lorenzo, Palazzo Medici soon became a prototype of Renaissance secular architecture. After 1540 when Cosimo I became Grand Duke and moved his residence to Palazzo Vecchio first and to Palazzo Pitti later - the palace continued to be inhabited by lesser members of the family until 1659, when Ferdinando II sold it to the Riccardi family, who had many alterations made in Baroque style and joined the former Medici building to their nearby property. When the Riccardi fortune waned in the early 19th century, they sold the palace to the State. Since 1874 it belongs to the Provincia and houses several administrative offices including the Prefettura. With such a long and varied history, the palace's art collections inevitably include an astonishing range of less- Culture er-known pieces. This year's exhibition goes under the title of Raccolte per caso (which roughly translates as 'Randomly assembled') and is divided into two sections. Red is beautiful The first one, I Medici Santi draws inspiration from the palace's own famous frescos in the Magi chapel, where Benozzo Gozzoli portrayed several members of the Medici family in the train following the three Wise Men to Bethlehem. On display are several examples of Medici portrays as saints, like the two paintings by Giorgio Vasari depicting Cosimo the Elder as San Cosma (opposite left) and Cosimo I as San Damiano (opposite right), or Giusto Suttermans's paintings depicting the Medici women as Sant'Agnese, Santa Margherita and Santa Maddalena. The other exhibition section - which is actually accessed through a long-forgotten 15t century secret door - is called Arredi Celati and displays some formerly unseen marble sculptures from the Riccardi collections (including both Roman originals and some 18th century copies) alongside a number of paintings of allegorical or religius subject which once adorned the palace's private quarters. What would you buy yourself as a present on your eight-hundredth birthday? The town of Montelupo Fiorentino, which celebrated the 8th centenary of its foundation in 2003, thought a while about it and then decided that a bowl was what it really wanted to have. Well, not just any one bowl: a unique bowl, a true masterpiece made in 1509 by one of Montelupo's own leading maiolica workshops. Known as Rosso di Montelupo, this water basin derives its name from the mysterious red pigment employed in its decoration. Formerly in the famous collection of Gustave de Rothschild in Paris, it then passed into the hands of the French antiquarian Alain Moatti, from whom a pool of benefactors - including the municipality of Montelupo and some private and corporate sponsors - has recently acquired it for the Museo Archeologico e della Ceramica di Montelupo. This unique, perfectly preserved, profusely decorated specimen of Montelupo ceramic (pictured top left) is on temporary display at Palazzo Medici Riccardi in Florence until 21st March; it will then be on permanent display in the Montelupo museum from 9th April. Info 0571.51352 or www.museomontelupo.it The 'Stanze segrete. Raccolte per caso' exhibition opens on 25th March and continues until 26th September Hours: 9am to 7pm, closed Wed. Infoline 055.2760340 or visit www.palazzo-medici.it RESTAURANT CUCINA INTERNAZIONALE INTERNATIONAL COOKING Piazza dell’Olio, 10r 50123 Firenze Tel. 055.211466 Open from 11am till 11pm non-stop <6> Giglio Rosso Home cooking Typical Tuscan dishes Air conditioning Centrally located Via Panzani, 35r - Via del Giglio, 11r 50123 Firenze always open - tel 055.211795 - fax 055.283739 <7> Culture selected events you shouldn't miss News flashes more on < vivifirenze.it > by Maddalena Delli Tartan: the Romantic Tradition continues at the Museo del Tessuto of Prato until 18th April. Believed to be the most extensive exhibition ever produced on the subject of tartan fabric and its folklore, it is open from 10am to 6pm every day except Tuesdays. for further details.on www.museodeltessuto.com. n unusual prose adaptation of Puccini's opera Turandot (see picture above) staged by Tedavi'98 can be seen until 14th March every evening (except 1-6-8 March) at 9.15pm at the Teatro off Lungobinario behind the Stazione Leopolda . The program also includes talks, concerts and visits to the Oriental collections of the Stibbert Museum. For info and bookings call 055.6120205 A If you still haven't seen it, plan a visit to Siena before 14th March: that's your last chace of not missing the wonderful exhibition about Duccio di Boninsegna and the beginnings of Sienese painting. The exhibition is open daily from 9am to 7.30pm at Santa Maria della Scala and the Museo dell'Opera, both by the Cathedral. More info on www.duccio.siena.it <8> The Teatro Verdi hosts on 20th April a unique concert: the Canadian band Musical Box will perform Selling England by the pound, a journey into the past with a meticulous (and officially authorized) re-enactment of a concert from the Genesis' 1973-1974 tour. Visit www.themusicalbox.net for more. Two permanent exhibitions of machines built in compliance with Leonardo da Vinci's projects are going to open in april. The San Gimignano display (in via Quercecchio 26) opens on 3rd April, while the Florence exhibition (in via dei Servi 66r) opens on 19th April. For details: [email protected] The 67th Maggio Musicale Fiorentino festival runs from 23rd april to 23rd June with operas, concerts and ballets. The Maggio Musicale is Italy’s oldest and most prestigious music festival and one of the greatest in the world. Check www.maggiofiorentino.com for program and tickets A Grand among art treasures and a glorious countryside Day Out by APT Firenze f, after visiting the interesting exhibition on Jacopo da Empoli (see box opposite), you feel like having a look at the surroundings of the pleasant town it’s held in, Empoli, and maybe also a little farther, there’s a whole lot of things to see and do in the so-called Empolese Valselsa region, a central area of Tuscany, located to the southwest of Florence. The Empolese Valdelsa area is made up of a district comprising eleven municipalities, six of them in the zone of Empoli (Capraia e Limite, Cerreto Guidi, Empoli, Fucecchio, Montelupo Fiorentino and Vinci) and five in the Valdelsa (Castelfiorentino, Certaldo, Gambassi Terme, Montaione and Montespertoli). I made their way along the major pilgrimage road known as the Via Francigena or Romea. Following the Arno from Florence, the first town we find is Montelupo Fiorentino, famous worldwide for its production of ceramics, as the Museo Archeologico e della Ceramica well documents. By the way, should you miss the Rosso di Montelupo exhibition at Palazzo Medici Riccardi in Florence (until March 21st, see page 5 for de- The territory is characterised by two rivers: the Arno to the north, running east to west in broad bends, and the Elsa to the south, one of the Arno's main tributaries, winding amidst gentle hills and a man groomed landscape of breathtaking beauty, the result of the patient work of man over many centuries. This was historically a land of passage, and it was here, entering from the Fucecchio marshes, that the great flow of pilgrims from Northern Europe on their way to Rome tails), from April 9th the beautiful bowl will be back on display at the Museo Archeologico e della Ceramica where it belongs. On the right bank of the Arno we then come to the municipality of Capraia e Limite, whose Etruscan origins are proven by interesting excavations in the area of Montereggi. The slopes of the Montalbano ridge lead us on to Vinci, set amidst hills cloaked in vines and olive groves. Vinci is famous worldwide as birthplace of Leonardo, to whom a museum is dedicated inside the Rocca, or fortress. Moving back towards the Arno we come to Cerreto Guidi, whose most notable landmark is the Medici Villa built in 1564, which is superbly approached by two flights of stairs traditionally attributed to Buontalenti (hoto below). In an elevated position over the marshy plain of its Padule, Fucecchio boasts a beautiful view over the lower valley of the Arno. The town itself has several important monuments, such as Palazzo Montanelli Della Volta and the Collegiata church, while the towers of a medieval castle are still standing. In a central position Cerreto Guidi - the Medici Villa OutofTown Born in Florence on 30th April 1551 in the parish of San Lorenzo, Jacopo di Chimenti was one of the most important Florentine artists to support the painting reform led by Santi di Tito, which would eventually cause the displacement of Mannerism. Known as Jacopo da Empoli after the place his family came from, he is now the subject of a major exhibition housed in the monumental Church of S. Stefano and the spacious rooms of the adjoining Convent, two of Empoli's most interesting historic buildings. Jacopo perfected his technique mainly by copying the great masters of the early 15th Century including Pontormo, some of whose masterpieces are also on display. Starting with the famous self-portrait from the Uffizi (above), the exhibition layout is divided into five sections retracing Jacopo's career with almost one hundred works ranging from religious subjects to portraits, gathered at Empoli from many Italian and foreign museums and private collections. Jacopo da Empoli OutofTown Jacopo da Empoli (1551-1640) Empoli, Church of Santo Stefano and Convento degli Agostiniani 21st March to 20th June 2004 open 10am to 7pm; closed Mondays Info 0571.757729 or visit www.jacopodaempoli.it Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 11/12 r Firenze Tel Fax 055.217700 www.il-porcospino.it - [email protected] Trattoria “Il Porcospino” alle Cappelle Medicee Wine Bar < 10 > < 11 > OutofTown Empoli - La Collegiata Romanesque parish church of Santa Maria a Chianni. on the banks of the Arno, the main town of this vast area is Empoli, with its romanesque Collegiata church and adjacent Museum. Empoli too boasts some important children including Pontormo, the painter (editor’s note: more about this to come in the May/June issue of Vivifirenze!), and Ferruccio Busoni, the famous 19th century musician. And these are only a few of the area's attractions, to which you can always add delicious food and fine wine at the local trattorie and restaurants, while friendly overnight accommodation can be found in many establishments including some beautifully located agriturismi. So, if you are looking for a grand destination for a day or for the weekend, just pop in at Student Point, pick up our leaflets and maps about this wonderful area, and off you go! Tel. 055.243140 [email protected] www.studentpointfirenze.it C TU los ES ed D on AY S Let's now change direction, moving north to south along the course of the river Elsa. The town of Castelfiorentino treasures beautiful frescoes by Benozzo Gozzoli and the impressive Baroque church of Santa Verdiana. To the south-west of Castelfiorentino lies Montaione, with the famous spiritual site of San Vivaldo with its seventeen chapels decorated with polychrome terracottas, crafted from 1515 onwards, each of them dedicated to a different holy site in Jerusalem. Not far from Montaione is Gambassi Terme, a spot highly appreciated for its salty waters, very famous in the past for its glass production. Not far from Gambassi stands one of the main stopping-places along the Via Francigena of old, the Returning towards the Elsa, we see Certaldo soaring aloft, with its ancient burgh well preserved within its intact gates. In the centre we find brick houses, the Palazzo Pretorio and the famous house-museum of Giovanni Boccaccio. Set on a watershed between the Elsa and Pesa valleys, overlooking the Chianti territory, is Montespertoli, giving its name to a famous strada del vino (wine trail): in this area two excellent wines are produced, the Chianti Montespertoli DOCG and the Chianti Colli Fiorentini DOCG. The original nucleus of the town grew up around the famous parish church of San Pietro in Mercato, whose Museum contains, among other important artworks, a beautiful Madonna and Child by Filippo Lippi. In the surroundings of Montespertoli are various fascinating castles such as Montegufoni, Poppiano and Lucardo. Via San Gallo, 37/R tel 055.47.50.90 FIRENZE < 12 > OutofTown OutofTown The latest craze for cross-country outings Quad Vadis? by Maddalena Delli ith events being run the length and breadth of the world, Quad riding is very much a growing sport for everyone: to find ladies's teams beating male competitors at events is not uncommon, and sports champions in the last few years have ranged from 16 to 56 years of age. Quads are four-wheel motor vehicles apt for any terrain and they are great leisure machines, fostering coordination, control and the sense of speed. They are also fun, exciting and entertaining. W The Quad machine is a derivative of the original A.T.V. (All Terrain Vehicle) which was shod with three wheels, and affectionately named the Trike. But those who used to race trikes would know them better as "the blooming thing that keeps chucking me off!" and this was one of the main reasons for the birth of the Quad. Which, as many off roads sports do, started in America, with conversions on trikes into four-wheeled Quads, by welding a subframe onto the front of the trike one the forks and lone < 14 > front wheel was removed, and the hanging A-arms, steering column, track rods, hubs and a pair of wheels on to the machine to create it. Quad racing is done in many disciplines: motocross, desert and beach racing (both oval and endurace), speedway, grass track, super moto (a sort of motocross/scrambling but not quite so challenging), ice speedway, road racing, enduros, hill climbs, drag/sprint. The list for these versatile machines is endless as they can literally conquer any terrain with very few set-up changes. Top international sports stars own and regularly ride their Quads. World champion rally driver Colin McRae for instance uses his Quad to practise his rallying skills: he says it's the closest thing to real rally driving and keeps his reactions sharp. Florence's own Jonathan Team holds the world record of balanced driving on two side wheels: Gionata Spina, the team leader, drove 100 km in 1 hour and 54 minutes completing as many as 250 laps at the Tavarnelle athletics track in December 2002. The idea sprang from 5 friends who turned their passion for this innovative means of transport into a real profession. As a result the team, which specializes in acrobatic performances, is now famous worldwide. But Quad racing is for anybody with a bit of co-ordination. Quads are very stable at low speed, and once the driver's confidence and ability develop, they are quite stable even at high speed. Thanks to the automatic shift even a beginner can take charge of these four-wheel vehicles and taste the feeling of a motorbike with the safety of four wheels. Quads have also become increasingly popular with tourist for cross-country excursions and tours over prohibitive terrains such as sand dunes, deserts and even snowy mountain tracks. C’mon, have a go! For ATV lovers but also for those who want to spend an unusual weekend, the Jonathan Team organizes tours in the glorious countryside around Florence lasting anything from three hours to a few days. Professional Quad pilots will guide you through an unforgettable visit of the Reggello area and let you admire the awesome clay gullies. Or you will have a chance to appreciate the white roads of Chianti. The routes are along track roads of particular scenic interest. Quads can have one or two occupants. Training school days are also organised by the Jonathan Team throughout the year, with 5 learning levels: beginners, advanced, cross-country, trial and free style. The courses, lasting 2 days, comprise a theory session (Saturday afternoon) and practical on-road and cross-country training (Sunday). So if you wish to know more, or if you wold like to sit aboard one of these machines and give it a try, just give them a call and they will arrange for more in depth information or set up an excursion for you. Info: Tel. 055.7876168 or www.jonathanteam.com < 15 > ItalianStyle There’s more to glass than meets the eye Blow A That very same magic, in different shapes, is all around us, even though we may not notice: be it a vase, a bowl, a glass, a necklace bead or whatever else; with gold or silver powder inside, or in vibrant colors; in each case, it will be something absolutely unique because on the far side of that blowpipe there is a man a craftsman, an artist or maybe even a master - who, regardless of his skill in the craft, will necessarily make something maybe similar, but still different the next time he blows into that pipe, for the very simple reason that human beings cannot make identical objects, just similar ones. A thorough understanding of the material and excellent glassblowing techniques are required to fully exploit the qualities of glass. Technical knowledge and skill were built up over many generations of glassblowers, and were developed in conjunc- tion with a sense of elegance and style which was totally appropriate to the material. Some Murano manufacturers are world-known for the beauty of the shapes, the difficulty of their craft, the constant quality of their product. But even maller manufacturers very often create remarkably fine products, and indeed sometimes they can afford more freely to experiment and try new solutions both in the shapes and in the color combinations, always in compliance with the traditional manufacturing techniques. Often the Murano glass – especially the larger, more valuable pieces – come accompanied with a guarantee of some kind (the artist’s signature or workshop’s trademark or a slip containing a certificate of authenticity), but on the other hand it must be said that the lack of origin marks does not necessarily mean that they are fake or copies. But then - you may rightly ask - how can I tell the real thing, how can I be confident that I’m not being sold “fake“ Murano glass? My advice is to buy from a good, specialized shop. Touch (with care!) the items which attract you most check the brightness of the colors and the unblemishedness of the glass. Above all, ask questions to the sales assistant: the best Murano glass dealers have an in-depth knowledge of their wares and will be all too La Bottega dei Cristalli This is the real appeal and magic of a blown glass object: you can have as many of them as you may afford to buy, and they can be more or less beautiful, but no two of them will ever be the same if they are individually blown, and this has been the same since time immemorial, probably since the 1st century b.C. when someone in Syria understood how to make a blown glass object. In Italy this difficult and demanding art has its major center at Murano a small island in the Venetian lagoon, where expert craftsmen have been producing for many centuries blown glass objects of rare beauty, as finely worked as lace, feather-light and almost impalpable, full of glowing colors: vases, candy-shaped ornaments, glasses, necklaces and other jewelry, plates small and large, bottles of all sizes and tableware, animals, figurines, paperweights, calligraphy pens and much, much else. < 16 > happy to answer your questions and help you reach the best choice. I hope this was of some use to you, but here’s one last piece of advice I’d like to share with you: watch, watch, and watch again. Never tire of watching, because that’s always the best way of learning and appreciating. So, get up and get going, but first finish up your drink – which you’re probably sipping out of a glass after all! Via dei Benci, 51R 50122 Firenze Tel. 055.2344891 shop on line: www.labottegadeicristalli.com pply an iron blowpipe to a blob of molten glass, and blow into it after rolling the aforesaid blob onto a marver and heating it again: that’s how the magic starts. Glassblowers in Murano di Anna Forconi by Anna Forconi In the Middle Ages, Venice was the leading glassmaking centre of the western world. Until the end of the 13th century, most glassmaking in Venice took place in the city itself. However - the threat of fire looming large in the wooden houses of early – in 1291 the city authorities ordered the transfer of the fiery ovens of the glassblowing furnaces to the lagoon island of Murano, where fires could be more easily contained. The measure also made it easier for the city to safeguard one of its main economic assets, ensuring that no glassmaking skills or secrets were exported. Why Murano? A major ItalianStyle < 17 > ItalianStyle San Martino Chiantigiano The Pink? fairy-tale No, Thanks of Impruneta The flower of women is yellow mimosa more on < vivifirenze.it > by Maddalena Delli economic and political differences to celebrate their legacy of struggles for equality, justice, peace and development. In fact in many Italian cities including Florence, several women-related events take place throughout March. f you are an inquisitive visitor, on March 8th don't be mystified by the hundreds of itinerant vendors selling mimosa. The reason for this is International Women's Day, called Festa della Donna here. Italy makes quite a fuss of it, and traditionally men give their wives, mothers, daughters, colleagues and other women friends sprigs of yellow mimosa, while in the evening restaurants and clubs (many of which put on ladies' nights with male strip shows) are full of girls out on the town, and the mimosa cocktail and mimosa cake are all the rage. I Put like this, the whole business may well sound like some clever marketing ploy devised by Interflora or by some inventive restaurant chain, but the feast is indeed a very serious celebration supported by many international organizations including the UN, with women from all continents coming together regardless of ethnic, linguistic, cultural, Women's Day was first celebrated early in the 20th century. It aroused international interest in March 1911, when almost 150 seamstresses - mostly Italian and Jewish immigrants - were locked in a New York City workshop after going on strike and were tragically killed in a fire. A few years later on the other side of the world, Russian women started a strike calling for "bread and peace" on March 8th, 1917 (it was February 23rd on the old Russian calendar but March 8th in the rest of the world). Yellow mimosa - a plant of Australian origin whose proper name is acacia dealbata - was chosen as a symbol for Women's Day in Italy in 1946. The story goes that it was picked among early blooming flowers because the sweet scented fluffy clusters of yellow pompoms are such pretty and delicate-looking little things, yet so cheerful. So you might like to join the custom and present someone you know with one of those bright yellow bouquets. And, needless to say, there are even Internet sites through which you can send "virtual mimosa" to your lady friends! An enchanted world to discover as reported by Lucy 2003 May 15th Florence , w e l l . hI te y r e v g n om, lorence is goi ending you t D e a r tM in F am s M y s ha ya g r e a t c i t y e! aIk i n g o f o n t hv ee r y t h i n g is suc tale I was sp l, just like e fairy :it is beautifu phone ere. else h pale flame lit up their faces, coloring their skin in golden and reddish hues. Only the rustling of the leaves broke the quiet of the lukewarm and silent night – a night that looked promisingly long and full of expectations: only a few more minutes and it would become the keeper of a big secret…. A verything had started the day before, when little Leonardo, while playing in his grandfather Ciccio’s attic, found a big dusty book, thick, so thick, similar to the ones that his grandfather kept in the showcase in his studio. And that book was indeed the P-volume of that set, which his grandfather thought had gone missing when he had moved from Florence years back. Leonardo started leafing through the pages of the big book: it was full of painted and colored pictures! E < 18 > San Martino Chiantigiano uddenly the young boy’s attention was caught by the drawing of a well, whose caption said: “The Well of San Martino”. Yes, of course, he knew that Well! It was in the garden of the San Martino restaurant, a place at Impruneta just outside Florence, along the ‘Chiantigiana’ road. S hat beautiful illustration was spoilt with blot: it could be a wax stain or maybe the mark of a teardrop. Under the picture was a note: “When the full moon will be high up in the sky and a little man with blue eyes will find the long lost pages again, the picture will clear and two souls will see the light again. T Y oung Leonardo rushed to inform his grandfather, who was immersed in thought by the fireplace. The old man stood up, kissed his grandson, turned to the window and began to tell him a fairy tale – his own fairy tale. It was on a winter Sunday and he was taking a walk on the grass next to the Well. There he met two young people: a beautiful young woman with big blue eyes and long dark hair and a proud young man with broad shoulders and big hands. They told him their sad love-story. Against her own will, the girl had been promised as bride to a rich businessman from Genoa. That was why they could only meet in secret by the San Martino Well above Impruneta. he grandfather was listening raptly to their story when all of a sudden a chasm opened in the ground and swallowed the girl. Her lover’s search proved useless: the girl had disappeared. The young man never stopped looking for his beloved: he remained by the Well for months, hoping for the young girl to reappear. He stayed there until his eyes closed forever. T San Martino Chiantigiano nd that was when, mysteriously, the writing in the encyclopedia tome had appeared. Leonardo, who was a bright young boy, wondered whatever that sentence scribbled in pencil might mean, and why just him – a young man with blue eyes – should have found the book on a full moon… A W ith a small flame and the moon as their sole companions, an old man and his grandson set out into the night to rejoin a broken love. Suddenly they saw shadows next to the Well: the two lovers were rejoined and were flying hand in hand towards the moon. ... Isn’t th A n d I h a d astua c h a r m i n g s t o r y , m o m ? restaurant me ch a lovely meal at the I am sending ntioned in the fairy tal ful sunset I s you a picture of the won e! aw from its te d e rrrace. Kisses, Lucy Folklore San Martino Chiantigiano The Restaurant All the most typical dishes from the Chianti area Cured lard from Greve Garlic bread with extra-virgin olive oil from Chianti Beans cooked in a flask Florentine steaks from Panzano Mushrooms from San Polo Fresh salad from the vineyards and much more. seasonal treats for the sweet-toothed Spring Sweet Spring by Rocco Barisci Quaresimali (Lenten biscuits) are nice brown cookies which you will only find in local bakeries and confectioners' shops during Lent (i.e. between Carnival to Easter). They are a great favorite with children for their chocolate flavor and alphabet shapes. V ery close to Florence and overlooking the Chianti hills, the San Martino restaurant is the place to enjoy all the special recipes from traditional Chianti cuisine. After the fasting of Lent, in the past the kitchens of country houses were full of unused eggs, so eggs - with the bonus of an intrinsic symbolism of birth - naturally become the basis of every Easter sweet. As in most tradditional festivities, every region (and sometimes even every town) boasts its particular Easter recipes. In a peaceful, warm and welcoming setting you can relax with your friends and enjoy the breathtaking view from our windows, or make yourself comfortable in the shade of the trees in our big garden, and spend delightful moments of pleasant living and great food. In order to always provide the best in quality and freshness, our menu is constantly updated with new dishes, prepared with fresh seasonal ingredients. We organize lunch and dinner business meetings Wine and oil cellars 150 wine brands We arrange wine and oil tastings Our kitchen is always open from 10am till late Reservations welcome Ristorante San Martino Chiantigiano How to reach us: Motorway exit: Firenze Sud (South Florence) Direction: Greve Location: Impruneta Via Chiantigiana 6/a, Impruneta (FI) - Phone: 055.2301095 [email protected] --- www.ristorantichianti.it n 19th March, Italy celebrates St. Joseph's as well as Father's Day, because of course Joseph was the father of Jesus and therefore a model of fatherhood. The traditional sweet for this occasion are frittelle di riso (sweet rice balls), a kind of scrumptious fritters with raisins and orange peel. Sagre delle frittelle are popular all over Tuscany throughout March, the most famous being held in the picturesque walled burgh of Montefioralle above Greve in Chianti (over the weekend of March 20th-21st); an ancient St. Joseph's fair is held in piazza Santa Croce in Florence, and another one in via Giovanni Duprè near piazza del Campo in the heart of Siena. O Pasticceria i dolci di Patrizio Cosi Pandiramerini (rosemary buns) are raisin-stuffed soft cakes, not too sweet. They are an old Florentine recipe, originaly meant to be blessed and eaten in the Holy Week. They were sold by street vendors outside the churches, where people went to visit the Easter Sepulchre and accomplish the Giro delle Sette Chiese (a pilgrimage which involves touring seven churches). Nowadays you can buy them loose from most bakeries, in most cases throughout the year. Their ingredients are bread dough, sugar, raisins, dried and ground rosemary and olive oil. Because of their "holy" origin, you should be careful not to waste even the tiniest crumb! Pasticceria i dolci di Patrizio Cosi Borgo degli Albizi 15R Firenze tel 055.2480367 Closed on Sundays < 23 > Folklore In southern Tuscany, a still strong Easter tradition is a big breakfast with the typical schiaccia di Pasqua, sometimes referred to as schiaccia (or ciaccia) dolce or schiaccia con la ricotta. This is a very soft bread, variously sweetened rather than salted depending on the area and family habit. Pasimata is another simple sweet Easter bread, this time from Lucca area. Rectangular in shape, it is flavorored with aniseed and brought to church on Easter morning to be blessed together with the easter eggs. On a national level, the two Easter sweets that are common to the whole of Italy are colomba and chocolate eggs. The former - a sweet, eggy cake (think of panettone plus candied orange peel, minus the raisins, and topped with sugared and sliced almonds) - is called colomba because it is dove-shaped. As a symbol of peace, the dove is an appropriate finish to an Easter dinner. In recent years industrial manufacturers have started marketing several fancy varieties of colomba (chocolate-covered, creamfilled etc.), but you should try the real thing first, better still if fresh from the oven of a good bakery. Although Italians do not decorate hard–boiled eggs nor have chocolate < 24 > bunnies or pastel marshmallow chicks, the biggest Easter displays in bars, pastry shops, supermarkets and especially chocolatiers are brightly wrapped uova di Pasqua (chocolate Easter eggs). They come in sizes that range from a few grams to several kilos and in several varities of milk, plain, bitter and white chocolate to meet all tastes. All except the tiniest eggs contain a surprise, and the very best eggs are handmade by master chocolatiers, who also offer the service of inserting a surprise supplied by the purchaser. Sets of keys for a new car, engagement rings and gold watches are some of the high–end gifts that have sometimes been tucked into Italian chocolate eggs! Folklore Happy the way it was in Florence new year!!! by Maddalena Delli o, I'm not teasing you: until not so long ago, Florence did celebrate the beginning of the year on March 25th! This system was called ab incarnatione, meaning nine months before Christmas, on the day when allegedly Gabriel the Archangel visited the Virgin Mary announcing her holy maternity. N Mind you, nearby Pisa went one step further and was one year ahead of the rest, counting the time from the March before the birth of Christ instead of from the first A.D. year proper. Indeed, Pisa still makes quite a fuss of it, and proudly celebrated the year 2000 nine months in advance! Elsewhere in Tuscany namely Arezzo, Massa Carrara and Lucca - the year started on Christmas day, while on a grander scale, a similar confusion applied throughout Europe, from Spain to Russia. As you may guess, this meant much trouble whenever an international document needed to be dated and signed. By the late 16th century it had become apparent that a common calendar was essential for both religious and secular matters, so Pope Gregory XIII in 1582 established that the year should commence on January 1st for everyone. However the new calendar - called Gregorian after its promoter - encountered much resistance in Florence, in spite of the fact that it had originally been inspired by the work of many Florentine intellectuals, both lay and religious. The city obstinately refused to comply to the papal order and continued to use its traditional calendar for 168 more years, and then again in the end it only adopted - with much regret - the Gregorian calendar following a decree issued by the Grand Duke Francesco II of Lorraine on November 20th 1749; but again, the Grand Duke was a foreigner, and he could not understand the Florentines' reasons... RESTAURANT - PIZZERIA Le Botteghe di Donatello A pleasant lunch or dinner awaits you in our comfortable and historic restaurant close to the Dome of the Cathedral. We cater for quick lunches as well as complete and delicious meals. Our menus include Florentine steaks, pizzas cooked in wood ovens, as well as many Tuscan and fish specialities, all accompanied by an excellent selection of wines. Our clients can taste the best Italian wines and the many Chianti specialities on sale in our Flavours of the Chianti shop. So, on January 1st, 1750, Florence was forced to celebrate its first Gregorian new year's day. But the Florentines are proverbial die-hards, and they still hold a day-long fair in the beautiful Santissima Annunziata square on March 25th, while a fascinating historic pageant parades from the Palagio di Parte Guelfa to the Basilica of the Santissima Annunziata in the afternoon of the same day: watch out for it! AIR CONDITIONED OUTDOOR TERRACE AND VERANDA OPEN EVERY DAY Piazza del Duomo (corner of Via dei Servi) - Firenze Tel. 055 216678 - E-mail: [email protected] < 26 > 10 % discount for ViviFirenze readers Folklore an impressive Holy Week tradition Cross roads more on < vivifirenze.it > by Maddalena Delli he village of Grassina in the municipality of Bagno a Ripoli (just outside the city gates of Florence south of the Arno) has been holding an Easter procession since 1633, when Florence was hit by a terrible plague epidemic which miracolously spared the Bagno a Ripoli district. Interrupted for World War II, the procession was revived from 1950 until 1966, when a terrible flood hit Florence and its surroundings. Seventeen years later, a group of volunteers organized a new and improved procession, which has been pulling larger and larger crowds eversince. T The event is made up of two different strands of action taking place at the same time. While a historic pageant of about 500 people in Roman costume parade through the streets of Grassina, 100 more actors give life to several scenes of the life and Passion of Christ impressively set against the backdrop of a nearby hill representing the Calvary, with an evocative soundtrack and special effects to highlight the dramatic events. < 28 > The Historic Pageant and reenactment of the Passion and Crucifixion of Christ take place at Grassina on Good Friday (April 9th this year) at 9.15pm; in case of bad weather the event is postponed to Easter Monday (April 12th). Tickets are available in advance from all Box Office network sales points or on the day of the show from the kiosks located at the entrance of the Grassina village. In case you can't make it to Grassina on Good Friday, in the past few years the Grassina pageant has also been enacting Christ's entrance in Jerusalem at 5pm on Palm Sunday (April 4th) in Piazza della Signoria in the heart of Florence. For further info 055.6390222 or ww.rievstoricagrassina.firenze.net a spectacular Easter show Why the fire cart explodes by Maddalena Delli erusalem, July 15th 1099. Apparenly the very first soldier to climb the walls of the besieged city and raise the Crusaders' standard is a Florentine, Pazzino de' Pazzi. As a token of appreciation for the young hero, his commander Godfrey of Bouillion gives him with three flints of stone taken from the Holy Sepulchre. Two years later, on July 16th 1101, Pazzino is back in Florence carrying his precious relics, and great celebrations are held in his honour. cart became increasingly elaborate. This must have happened towards the end of the 14th century: all along, the Pazzis had preserved the duty and honor to provide for the celebrations. But in 1478 some members of the Pazzi family conjured against the rival Medicis, At first the flints were kept in the family palace, but they were soon entrusted to a nearby church. Since 1785, they have been kept in the Church of Santi Apostoli. Since early times, on Holy Saturday a fire was lit by rubbing these stones and then brought to the cathedral, and from here it was carried in procession throughout the city in order to light holy fires in every household. Later a cart came into use for the procession, and over the years and decades the wounding Lorenzo (later the Magnificent) and killing his brother Giuliano. As a consequence the Pazzis were exiled, and the fire cart tradition suppressed. But the Florentines grumbled and complained so much, that the Signoria reintroduced the cart, asking the powerful Calimala guild to manage the ceremony. When the Pazzis were readmitted a few years later, they decided to provide an even more monumental and solid cart, which is basically the one we still use now. In the 16th century fireworks were first attached to the cart, for the wonder and merriment of the Florentines who flocked to see the unprecedented show. So here we come to the present day. The huge, three-storey wooden fire cart - teasingly nicknamed Brindellone, a vernacular word whose rough translation is tall and wobbly - is kept in a warehouse in Via il Prato (you will easily spot the exact building: look for an abnormally huge wooden door on the facade). Early on Easter morning, the cart is drawn to Piazza del Duomo by six white oxen of the Chianina breed, and placed in front of the main door of the Cathedral. Then a steel wire (fomerly a greased rope) is stretched between the cart and the high altar, and a doveshaped rocket is secured to the wire. Meanwhile a solemn historic pageant in Renaissance costume, carrying the city standard alongside the Pazzi flag, moves from Palazzo Vecchio to the Church of Santi Apostoli where the holy fire is lit, and from there to the Baptistry where another much-awaited ceremony takes place: four colored eggs are placed in a bag and drawn in pairs. This rite establishes which teams will play against whom in the June matches of the Calcio in Costume (traditional Florentine football). The colors of the eggs represent in fact the teams of the four city quarters: white for the Bianchi of Santo Spirito, red for the Rossi of Santa Maria Novella, green for the Verdi Folklore of San Giovanni and blue for the Azzurri of Santa Croce. The fire is then brought into the cathedral, where the solemn Easter mass is celebrated. At 11am sharp, when the Gloria is sung, all the bells peal in unisone and the archbishop sets the dove going by lighting its fuse with the holy fire. Dashing down the aisle at breakneck speed, the dove exits the cathedral by the main door, reaches the cart and sets off the fireworks, then rushes back inside the church while outside hundreds of onlookers gape up at the endless whirlpool of bangers and colourful Catherine-wheels whizzing all over the place and enveloping the cart in a thick cloud of white smoke. The successful outcome of the ceremony is considered to be a good omen, meaning plentiful crops for the whole year to come; yet, the modern mechanism is most unlikely to miss its target, and in case it did, a fireman would lit the fireworks for the benefit of tourists. By the way, if you are still puzzled by the role of fireworks in the whole business, they obviously represent the holy fire being distributed across the city as it originally was. RISTORANTE NATALINO A typical Florentine dinner in one of the oldest restaurants in the city BORGO ALBIZI, 17/R - FIRENZE - tel/fax 055 289404 - CLOSED MONDAY’ < 30 > < 31 > the “Brindellone” Folklore Leisure Let out the Leisure Come join the Craich! Leprechaun in you by Maddalena Delli s Pete McCarthy cunningly observed in his bestselling McCarthy's Bar, “The global hype about all things Irish shows no sign of burning out yet.” No wonder, he goes on to explain, since “the Irish are perceived as young, eloquent, romantic, tuneful, mystical, funny, and expert haversof-a-good-time.” The fever reaches red-hot temperatures every year in March, around St. Patrick's day. A Needless to say, Florence is no exception to the rule, and for nine years running it has been falling victim to its own particular brand of uncurable Paddy's fever. This year makes no exception, with the usual Irlanda in Festa event scheduled to take the Saschall by storm between Monday 15th and Saturday 20th of March. So if you too can't resist the call of fiddles, pipes and bodhráns; if you can't keep your feet from dancing when hearing a jig; if you can't avoid joining in when some- < 34 > one strikes up “Whiskey in the Jar”; then you know what's the place to be. And rest assured, should you feel thirsty after all the singing and dancing, there will be streams of your favorite stout beer to quench your thirst. The daily program of Irlanda in Festa offers five hours of live music starting every evening from 8.30pm with Amergin, the resident band coming from Kenmare (Co. Kerry). They will then be joined by important guest artists: on the first three nights (including St. Patrick’s) you will have a chance to discover the combat-folk music of the Italian band Modena City Ramblers. Thursday 18th will see onstage the Scottish band Waterboys and Massimo Bubola, a much appreciated Italian musician and poet whose hit songs aptly include Il cielo d’Irlanda (Irish skies). Friday 19th will see the concert of Albion Band from England. On the closing night (Sat. 20th) there will be two more outstanding performances, one by John Mc Sherry (the undisputed master of uillean pipes) and his band, and one by the local band Whisky Trail, heralds for nearly thirty years of celtic folk music in Italy. But let’s go back to Pete McCarthy: his book is an inspiring account of his travels in western Ireland, trying to sort out his Anglo-Irish identity and obeying “The Eight Rule of Travel (…): Never pass a bar that has your name on it”. Well, in Florence he wouldn’t have been successful: as far as I’m aware there are no bars called McCarthy’s here. Still, there are plenty of Irish pubs in town, and – why not! - you can make up your own ad-hoc rule for a good excuse not to pass them by. Let’s start with the Trip per Tre Rock Guitar Pub in Borgognissanti 144r (tel. 055.292085). Ten years ago, this was one of the first Irish pubs to root in Florence, and the winning mix of rock music, Irish beer and Tuscan dishes has attracted a varied crowd of visitors and regulars eversince. The typical Tuscan bread from a wood-burning oven is at the core of the delicious, freshly cut panini. Wash them down with a pint of cold Guinness beer or with other draught beers such as the Weizen Kapuziner. The Trip per Tre also offers a selection of excellent music including videos of the best rock concerts from the Sixties to the present. < 35 > to beer or not to beer Leisure The Cluricane Irish Pub, located in piazza dell'Olio 9r (tel. 055.284509) just a few steps from the Duomo, was established in December 2000. Both its furniture and its manager come from Ireland, and the bar boasts the Guinness seal of origin. Tiny yet so full of character, it provides an outside seating area allowing customers to sip their drinks in a picturesque corner set in the heart of the pedestrian area. The selection of Irish labels caters for all tastes, from Guinness stout to Kilkenny Cream ale or Harp lager. If you are a beer connoisseur looking for some genuine, home-brewed beer, Il Bovaro in Porta San Frediano (tel. 055.2207057) is the only independent microbrewery in Florence. Il Bovaro’s own brand list includes "Axel" (double malt), "Ricky" (lager), "Ugo" (light pilsen) e "Titian" (red). The beer comes straight from the tanks in full view in one of the 14th century rooms with bare brick vaults. The Venturi bros, Daniele and Tiziano, produce their excellent beers from barley malt in compliance with the traditional brewing process. They also make special beers on different occasions throughout the year, and keep them in the natural cold store of the 12th century cellar. Additionally, Il Bovaro offers a choice of food carefully selected to enhance the taste of its beers: pasta dishes and cured meats, cheeses with mustard or truffle-scented honey. No wonder Il Bovaro has quickly made a name for itself for the perfect mix of excellent beers, fine cuisine, unique setting and discreet yet friendly service. < 36 > The Old Stove in via Pellicceria 2/4r (tel. 055.284640) is open from 12 noon till 2.30am. Here you can choose from a wide selection of Irish beers and delicious Irish appetizers. On fine evenings you can also enjoy the outside seating. Its twin establishment, The Lion's Fountain, is located in Borgo ALbizi 34r (tel. 055.2344412) and is open daily from 6pm till 2.30am. It boasts an outdoor patio and provides music, snacks, dinner, sandwiches as well as international sports & video-sat circuit with US sport events such as NBA, NFL, MLB, NCAA. Both The Old Stove and The Lion's Fountain organize their own St. Patrick’s week between 10th and 17th March with Irish whiskey and Irish Cream tastings, special prices and gifts. At midnight on 17th March there will be a slice of traditional Irish cake for everyone! Bars & Pubs Leisure Flex Caffè P.zza Mercato Centrale, 28r ☎ 055.2382374 Il Bovaro Via Pisana, 1/3/5r ☎ 055.2207057 Kikuya Via dei Benci, 43r ☎ 055.2344879 Il Porcospino Piazza Madonna degli Aldobrandini, 11/12r ☎ 055.217700 Il Rifrullo Via S. Niccolò 55r ☎ 055.2342621 Lochness Pub Via dei Benci, 19r Il Trip per Tre Pub Borgognissanti, 144r La Dolce Vita Piazza del Carmine ☎ 055.284595 Salamanca Via Ghibellina, 80r ☎ 055.2345452 Loonees Pub Via Porta Rossa, 15 ☎ 055.212249 Negroni Via de’ Renai, 17r ☎ 055.243647 The Gate Irish Pub Borgo San Frediano, 102 ☎ 055.295181 Maracanà Disco Via Faenza, 4 ☎ 055.210298 Zoe Via de’ Renai, 13r ☎ 055.243111 The Lion’s Fountain Borgo Albizi, 34r ☎ 055.2344412 Nabucco Wine Via XXVII Aprile, 20r ☎ 055.475087 OUTSIDE the city center The William Pub Via Magliabechi, 7/9/11 ☎ 055.2638357 Robin Hood’s Pub Via Dell’ Oriuolo, 58r ☎ 055.240224 Around S.CROCE Jazz Club Via Nuova de’ Caccini, 3r ☎ 055.2479700 Around the DUOMO and Train Station Amadeus Pub Via Dei Pescioni,5r ☎ 055. 2398229 Rose’s Cafè Via del Parione, 26r ☎ 055.287090 The Fiddler’s Elbow P.zza S.M.Novella, 7A ☎ 055.215056 Birreria Centrale Piazza Cimatori, 1-2r ☎ 055.211915 The Old Stove Pub Via Pellicceria,2/4 r ☎ 055.284640 BZF Bizzeffe Via Panicale, 61r ☎ 055.2741009 S. SPIRITO and Oltrarno Caffè Caracol Via Ginori, 10r ☎ 055. 211427 Caffé Pitti Piazza Pitti, 9r ☎ 055.2399863 Chequers Pub Via della Scala, 7/9r ☎ 055.287588 Caffé Notte Via delle Caldaie 28r ☎ 055.223067 Cluricane Irish Pub Piazza dell’Olio, 9r ☎ 055.284509 Du Monde Via S. Niccolò, 103r ☎ 055.2344953 Colle Bereto Piazza Strozzi, 5r ☎ 055.283156 Hemingway Piazza Piattelina, 9 Braumeister Via Madonna della Tosse, 12r ☎ 055.5000822 Central Park Via Fosso Macinante, 1 ☎ 055.353505 Chalet Fontana Via S. Leonardo, 8r ☎ 055.221187 Elliot Braun Via Ponte Mosse, 117r ☎ 055.352352 Godò Piazza Edison, 3/4r ☎ 055.583881 Rio Grande Disco Via dell’Olmo, 1 ☎ 055.352143 Tenax Via Pratese, 77 ☎ 055.308160 Universale Via Pisana, 77 ☎ 055.221122 BIRRERIA CENTRALE Tyrolean Tavern Regional Cuisine Brewery & Enoteca Outdoor Tables *** Closed on Sunday Piazza Cimatori 2r (close to Palazzo Vecchio) - 055.212915 < 38 > Leisure Leisure The Italian ritual of a drink before dinner Aperihour by Maddalena Delli he word aperitif comes from the Latin "aperire", to open. You should remember that traditionally, Italians do not drink in order to get drunk: rather, alcohol fulfils a complementary role in the dining process. An aperitif is meant to cleanse your palate and whet your appetite for the upcoming meal. T But in fact, an early evening aperitif has now come to mean so much more than just that: it is a popular ritual, a way of passing from work to leisure while sipping a mild beverage, enjoying a few savory snacks, and sharing time with friends. The typically French and Italian rite of aperitif offers a taste of la bonne vie for those who enjoy nothing more than raising a glass in the company of friends. It's an inspiring process and one that surely epitomises the continentals' particular brand of effortless cool. What better way to unwind at the end of a long day in the office? Even the music mix is also specially chosen with smooth, soothing sounds providing a suitable backdrop for a relaxed chat among friends. Of course, the die-hard workholics still turn the aperitif hour into yet another chance for a business meeting; but that's another matter... In the past few years the ritual has become so popular that many bars in < 40 > Florence now offer a sophisticated choice of finger foods and snacks to accompany your aperitif. Arrive between 7pm and 9pm, buy yourself a drink and you can expect to stock up for free on a good spread of complimentary nibbles. The aperitif buffet often includes delicious, usually freshly cooked food ranging from appetizers to classic Tuscan dishes like ribollita or pappa al pomodoro, crostini and crostoni, fondue, salamis and hams, cold meats, hot and cold pasta, focaccia squares, mini pizzas, carpaccios, sushi, crudités with olive oil dips, fresh fruit salads and much more. Mr. Negroni, I presume? You certainly know the Negroni cocktail, one of the favourite strong aperitif drinks worldwide. What you probably were not aware of is that Negroni is a Florentine by birth. As with most cocktails, it was not invented by a barman, but by a drinker. In the Twenties, the most fashionable drink in Florence was the Americano -a residual of Europe’s pro-American feelings after World War I. An Americano is half sweet vermouth and Typical aperitif drinks can be wine, champagne, cocktails, liqueurs or combinations of these. Some even say that beer is even a natural aperitif. The market also caters for teetotallers, who can choose from a wide range of non-alcoholic aperitif drinks like Crodino for instance: this is a far cry from the classic "soft drink" alternatives to alcohol, providing all the glamour and taste of a true aperitif. Moreover, sugary drinks are not the way to go: they cloy the palate and also dull the appetite. The reason why herbal bitters make the best aperitifs is that common ingredients such as thyme, cumin, nutmeg, cloves, liquorice, fennel, citrus peel and wormwood work their magic as soon as they hit the tongue, activating the saliva glands, which in turn get the digestive juices flowing. This prepares the gall bladder, that releases bile from the liver, ready for food:in short, bitters set up the whole process of digestion and metabolism so it works at its best. half Campari with a generous splash of soda. Everyday the stylish Count Camillo Negroni would meet his friends at the Giacosa bar on the stillfashionable via Tornabuoni and order an Americano - but with a difference - with a splash of gin instead of the soda. Soon others started ordering their Americanos “the Negroni way” and a star was born... Not surprisingly then, aperitifs were first developed by monks as medical elixirs. As cafe culture swept Italy in the 19th century, the basic recipes of the past were refined by innovative barmen who would lure patrons to their establishments with their exclusive concoctions. Gustav Campari perfected a sophisticated blend of 68 herbs, spices and barks in his bar located in Milan's fashionable Galleria and his eclectic recipe is in such demand even today, that there are still only two people who know the combination of ingredients that make up Campari - and even then, they are only privy to 34 each. < 41 > Leisure Lunch 12.30 - 14.30 Dinner 19.00 - 23.30 a couple of mouth-watering addresses Editor's Picks I Visacci B.go Albizi 82r ☎ 055.2001956 I Visacci is a warm, cozy venue open from 10am till 3am, with the added bonus of two internet workstations. Freshly cut sandwiches, panini and crostoni are available for lunch alongside salads and main courses like roast beef or veal in tuna sauce. Wine and beer are served by the glass at reasonable prices. Barman Roby mixes almost 100 drinks for the aperitif, while the best DJs play exciting music selections. Happy Hour until 10pm with cocktails, long drinks and wine. La Bussola Via Porta Rossa 58r ☎ 055.293376 In the heart of the old city centre, La Bussola is ronowned for its elegant aand unusual decor. Established in 1960, La Bussola has been a favourite with Italian and international jet-set clientele as well as with several generations of Florentines who ensure its continuing success. La Bussola offers fine Tuscan cuisine, a wide choice of fish dishes and a variety of pizzas from the wood-burning oven. The homemade desserts and excellent wine list are also worthy of mention. LOBS RESTAURANT - Via Faenza, 75/77 - tel. 055.21.24.78 Breakfast Baguettes Carpaccio Dessert Lunch Aperitif Appetizer Buffet Dinner AfterDinner Restaurant GODO’ CAFE’ BRUNCH P.zza Edison, 3/4 r Tel 055.583.881 Mediterranean Restaurant Pizzeria with wood oven Osteria - Trattoria FIRENZE - ITALY OPEN EVERY NIGHT 1 Hour’s Complimentary Parking Via della Vigna Vecchia, 40/R 50122 Firenze - Tel. 055 284170 SAN DIEGO - CALIFORNIA - USA < 42 > 322, 5th Avenue - 92101 San Diego Tel. (001) 619/230.0382 Via Maso Finiguerra, 10 -Tel. 055.21.21.06 www.acquaal2.it every day, all day long Leisure Shapes &Tastes Leisure La Schiacciata the art of matching pasta and sauces cold pasta salads, while jumbo shells, cannelloni and manicotti – as well as lasagne of course – are terrific for baked pasta casseroles. If you are cooking pasta for a bake, boil it for a couple of minutes less than the recommended cooking time stated on the packet, or it will become too soggy once cooked in the oven as well. more on < vivifirenze.it > by Maddalena Delli hen making delicious pasta dishes, be sure to choose a pasta shape and sauce that complement each other. There are no shapes whose sole purpose is to be pleasing to the eye each shape produces a particular sensation on the palate and is best suited to a particular type of sauce. W A good rule of thumb is whether the ingredients of the sauce will cling to the pasta when travelling on a fork from plate to mouth. Also, ribbed pasta normally holds more sauce than smooth shapes. On some occasions you may also want to take into account that short pasta shapes are easier to eat than long pasta, so they're a good choice if you're serving kids or crowds, and even more so at a standing buffet or party. Thin, long pasta shapes should be served with light, thin sauces like olive and tomato rather than sauces with < 44 > large chunks of meat or vegetables; yet the ubiquitous spaghetti go perfectly well both with simple seasonings such as the more than basic “aglio, olio e peperoncino" (garlic, oil and chili) and with richer sauces such as the “carbonara" (with eggs and pancetta cubes) or “allo scoglio” with shellfish. Broader long shapes like fettuccine or pappardelle - also referred to as ribbon pasta - can handle heavier cheese, meat or tomato sauces. Long pasta is also more often sprinkled with grated parmeasan cheese which acts as a binder with the sauce. Tubular pasta and other shapes with holes or ridges (like penne, ruote or fusilli) are perfect for chunkier sauces. Their cavities, especially the larger tubes, are ideal for trapping toothsome bits like peas or shrimps or pancetta cubes. Fusilli, penne, farfalle and other similar varities are also excellent for Stuffed pasta like ravioli or tortelli make some of the most elegant and delicious pasta dishes. It is important that the quantity and type of stuffing complement the shape of pasta: a common mistake when making home-made stuffed pasta is to overpower it with stuffing. On the other hand, the risk when serving it is to choose a sauce that doesn't match (or even 'kills') the taste of the stuffing. One last piece of advice: pasta producers big and small offer an ever-increasing range of colored pasta. Bright red, dazzling yellow penne, deep green, woodland brown and then again orange, mauve, pink and even black pasta: what is the secret of this enigmatic rainbow? The green reveals the presence of spinach or basil, the red of tomatoes or red peppers, the blurred brown of mushrooms, and so on. If you want to try this novelty varities, you are advised not to combine them with complicated sauces, or both the enjoyment of their hue and their often subtle taste will go lost: in this case, simple oil or butter or sometimes plain cream are by far your best bets. Try saying the magic word “Pugi” to any Florentine: they will roll their eyes to heaven and extatically sigh “... Oh, la schiacciata del Pugi...”. It's no advertising claim, it's a fact: for several decades already, Pugi has simply been a synonym for schiacciata all'olio, the fragrant local flat bread seasoned with only the finest olive oil. The many types of bread, the crispy pizzas and the lavishly stuffed focaccias are just as popular with the mixed crowds of students, housewives and office workers that fill the Pugi bakeries at all times of the day, and one more Pugi shop has just opened in Via San Gallo by popular demand. No less enticing are their sweet specialities, based on traditional recipies: at this time of the year, try some frittelle di riso (sweet rice fritters) or a pandiramerino (rosemary bun). And should you still be around in the Fall, don't miss the delicious schiacciata con l'uva (flat bread with grapes). Focacceria Pugi can be found in: Piazza San Marco 9/B Via San Gallo 62r Viale De Amicis 49r Tel. 055.280981 www.focacceria-pugi.it < 45 > Acqua al 2 (0) Via Vigna Vecchia,40r ☎ 055.284170 Giglio Rosso (7) Via Panzani, 35r ☎ 055.211795 Angiolino (4) Via Guelfa, 138r ☎ 055.475292 Golden View (0) Via dei Bardi, 58r ☎ 055.214502 Antica Cantina Capponi (2) B.go S. Frediano, 26r ☎ 055.2381569 Grotta di Leo (0) Via della Scala, 41r ☎ 055.219265 Antico Fattore (4) Via Lambertesca, 1r ☎ 055.288975 Baldovino (3) Via S.Giuseppe 22r ☎ 055.241773 Beccofino (1) P.zza Scarlatti, 1r ☎ 055.290076 Buca dell’Orafo (7) Volta de’ Girolami, 28r ☎ 055.21361 Cavolo Nero (7) Via dell’Ardiglione, 22 ☎ 055.294744 Celestino (7) Via Guelfa, 138r ☎ 055.475292 Enoteca Pinchiorri (1-7) Via Ghibellina, 87 ☎ 055.242777 Finisterrae (0) Via dei Pepi, 5/7r ☎ 055.2347220 Funiculì (0) Via il Prato, 8r ☎ 055.2646553 P.zza IV Novembre, 52 ☎ 055.440106 Sesto Fi Fuor d’Acqua (7) Via Pisana, 37r ☎ 055.222299 LA BURRASCA di Genzano Anna Typical Tuscan Cuisine Via Panicale, 6r 50123 FIRENZE tel 055.215827 < 46 > Mamma Gina (7) Borgo S. Jacopo, 37r ☎ 055.2396009 I’Francescano (2) Largo Bargellini, 16 ☎ 055.241605 Il Cardellino (2) Via S.Galllo, 37r ☎ 055.475090 Il Cibreo (1-7) Via del Verrocchio, 8r ☎ 055.2341100 Il Gatto e la Volpe (0) Via Ghibellina, 151r ☎ 055.289264 Il Porcospino (1) P.zza madonna degli Aldobrandini, 11-12r ☎ 055.217700 I 4 Amici (7) Via Orti Oricellari, 29 ☎ 055.215413 La Burrasca(4) Via Panicale, 6r ☎ 055.215827 Masò (0) Via M. Finiguerra, 10 ☎ 055.212106 Momoyama (0) Borgo S. Frediano, 10r ☎ 055.291840 Natalino (1) Borgo Albizi, 17r ☎ 055.289404 Osteria Antica Mescita (7) Via S. Niccolò, 60r ☎ 055.2342836 Sasso di Dante (0) p.za Pallottole, 6r ☎ 055.282113 Sesame (0) Via delle Conce, 20r ☎ 055.2001381 Viavai (1) Via Pisana, 33r ☎ 055.2001381 Vinolio (7) Via S. Zanobi,126r ☎ 055.489957 La Bussola (1) Via Porta Rossa, 58 ☎ 055.293376 La Posterula (0) Piazza Davanzati, 3r ☎ 055.2381958 Aperto Tutte le SERE Trattoria Lobs (0) Via Faenza, 75r ☎ 055.212478 Grotta Guelfa (0) Via Pellicceria, 5r ☎ 055.210042 Il Portale (7) Via Alamanni, 29r ☎ 055.212992 Le Botteghe di Donatello (0) P.zza Duomo, 28r ☎ 055.216678 Key to closing days (1)=Monday; (7)=Sunday (0)=always open T YPICAL G OURMAND C UISINE Via dell’Albero, 28/30 r. 50123 Firenze tel-fax 055 211198 [email protected] www.ristorantebelcore.it Restaurants Leisure Wellness For healthy eating, go Mediterranean Life on the Med by Maddalena Delli id you know that there is a type of diet that may help you lose weight, lower the risk of chronic and life-threatening illnesses, and live longer? What's more, it's no extreme diet, but rather a healthy approach to food in general, and a highly palatable one for that matter. And - last but not least - you happen to be in the right place, right now! D This diet is known as the Mediterranean diet and it consists mostly of grains, fruits, beans and vegetables. In the 1950s Professor Ancel Keys embarked on a comparative survey of the dietary habits of seven countries: Finland, Japan, Greece, Italy, Holland, USA and former Yugoslavia. The resulting data clearly demonstrated that the populations living in Mediterranean countries - whose diet consisted mainly of bread, pasta, fruits, vegetables, fish and food seasoned almost exclusively with olive oil - enjoyed the lowest recorded rates of chronic diseases and the highest adult life expectancy. and a pattern of lower incidence of coronary heart disease, as well as other diseases. Therefore, the Mediterranean diet has also taken hold in countries with very different eating behaviors because of its recognised health value. As a rule of thumb, the Mediterranean diet should not be intended as a weight loss diet, but rather as a health plan. Let's keep in mind that "diaita" was the ancient Greek word for "lifestyle". The Mediterranean Diet Pyramid pictured here is meant to give relative proportions and a general sense of frequency of servings, as well as an indication of which foods to favor in a healthy Mediter- Today, many scientists worldwide actively endorse the benefits of the Mediterranean menu and urge us to pay more attention to the kinds of fat in our diets, rather than simply the amounts of fat. Meanwhile, studies continue to show a distinct correlation between the foods eaten by the people living in the Mediterranean region ranean-style diet suitable for most healthy adults. For Americans, northern and eastern Europeans and anyone wishing to improve their diets, this model provides a highly palatable, healthful framework for change. Defining and understanding the Mediterranean diet is not easy because the area consists of three continents and at least 16 countries border the Mediterranean Sea. Differences in culture, ethnic background, history, religion, economy and agricultural production result in different diets. In Italy alone there are major nuances in the different regional cuisines. Roman, Tuscan, Ligurian, Neapolitan and Sicilian cuisine - to name but a few - are all variations on the Italian version of the Mediterranean Diet. Still, there are some common characteristics. Firstly, more than half the fat calories in a Mediterranean diet come from olive oil, while animal fats in the form of butter, cream, lard etc. are hardly ever used. The taste of olive oil permeates these cuisines and is the elixir of health that makes them so healthy because not only is olive oil a beneficial monounsaturat- Wellness ed fat, but it carries many important anti-oxidants along with it. But perhaps the most important characteristic is simply that this oil makes vegetables taste absolutely delicious, encouraging their avid consumption. Italians in particular have a love affair with vegetables and specialize in making them irresistible. But that’s not all. Even the lowly bean is held in high esteem in the Mediterranean and when combined with olive oil and the proper accompaniments is a culinary delight as well as a staple of good health. The same can be said of nuts. In many countries, they are considered a snack food; in the Mediterranean, they hold a much greater significance and have often been used to thicken sauces and give certain dishes texture. Oil has also been extracted from nuts. In earlier times, nuts were especially important because of their long shelf life. Bread is perhaps the most fundamental part of the Mediterranean diet. Hundred of different types of bread exist throughout the Mediterranean, ranging from pita bread to Italian crostini. Bread dough is used to create a variety of foodstuffs, including various types of pasta and even cakes. Althoiugh milk and butter are used sparingly, cheese and yogurt are important components of the Mediterranean diet. In Italy cheese is used Trattoria Mamma Gina “The Typical Tuscan Tratttoria” CLOSED ON SUNDAYS Borgo S. Jacopo 37/r (Ponte Vecchio) Tel. 055/2396009 - Fax: 055/213908 www.mammagina.it - email: [email protected] < 48 > < 49 > Wellness Is Pizza healthy? There are all kinds of pizza. When it's made with the right ingredients, and when the topping you choose is not a calorie bomb in itself, pizza is one of the healthiest foods you can eat, essentially a meal in itself - with plenty of protein, vitamins and carbohydrates and only moderate quantities of sodium and cholesterol - and poses no health risk for most people. largely as a condiment to make other foods such as pasta, tomato sauce and vegetables even more delicious. Yogurt is found throughout the Mediterranean and experts suggest it may lower cholesterol, enhance immunity and have anti-oxidant properties. Eating fish a few times per week benefits the Mediterraneans by increasing the amount of omega-3 fatty acids. Eating red meat and eggs sparingly also seems to increase health by lowering cholesterol. Throughout the Mediterranean, a little wine is often drunk with meals. Research shows that a glass a day may keep the grim reaper away: consumed in moderation, red wine has proven anti-cancer and anti-heart disease properties. For men moderation means two glasses per day; for women one glass is the norm. However even in modest amounts alcohol may be associated with increased risk of other pathologies. Therefore, wine consumption should be considered optional. Antica CantinaCapponi Typical Tuscan Cuisine Fine selection of sea-dishes Wide Choice of Wines Closed on Tuesdays Borgo S.Frediano 26r - 50124 Firenze tel 055.2381569 < 50 > The other part of the equation is physical activity: the Mediterranean diet exists in a cultural context where people get more physical activity than most Americans. Additionally, in those parts of the world where the Mediterranean diet is traditional, people enjoy strong social and family bonds that are manifested around meals families and friends take as much pleasure in eating together as they do in the food itself. A better understanding of Mediterranean food, cooking, and ingredients can make our diets more flavorful, enjoyable, and healthy. The Mediterranean diet ease away from the modern day tradition of relying on manufactured foodstuffs and junk food, for it reflects the ties between Man and his environment, providing a pleasant diet, rich in fibre and low in saturated fatty acids, which is balanced, suitable for any age and with the property of preventing many diseases. Wellness Two useful addresses around Piazza Signoria Editor's Tips Dr. Stephen Kerr is an Englishspeaking general practicioner who lives and practices privately in Florence. You can find him in via Porta Rossa 1 (just off piazza della Signoria) and his telephone contacts are 055.288055 (for the clinic) or 335.8361682 (mobile phone). For a consultation in his surgery just drop in from 3pm to 5pm from Monday to Friday or otherwise call for an appointment on week day mornings between 9am and 1pm. Credit cards are accepted. < 52 > Ottica Sbisà in piazza Signoria 10r (tel. 055.211339) was established in 1869. Over the years the shop has specialized in ophthalmology, topography, meteorology and microscopy. Its central location in the city's main square means Sbisà is a favorite with both Florentine clients and visitors. This has caused the management to engage in a radical process of renovation in order to improve the display of carefully selected fashion models of spectacles and sunglasses alongside the traditional core business of high quality optics and photography instruments like binoculars, digital cameras, microscopes and telescopes. Wellness Wellness the Italian way of being beautiful the Gyrotonic Expansion System unveiled Slim & Toned Ever heard of GXS? by Christine Stewart by Maddalena Delli hen spring arrives every woman feels naturally attracted by light silk skirts, tailored jeans and micro tops showing a well toned tummy. And if your body is still sleeping under your winter clothes when the sun begins to shine, tt’s definitely time for some action! If you haven’t done a sliver of exercise in ages, the thought of a gym probably turns your stomach faster than a stick of celery for lunch. If you’re too lazy - and too attracted by Italian pasta – the good news is that there’s still something you can do to get fit right now. W Enter a world of comfort and relaxation to be pampered and treated by a professional team of therapists, specially trained in the Figurella Method. Figurella is a unique escape place to lose weight and inches while relaxing and learning how to eat in a balanced way. You will discover how easy it is to savour all the taste of Italian food without getting fat. Figurella’s unique temperature controlled workout bed and active oxygen spa means body resculpturing and weight loss. The Method combines moderate physical activity in temperature controlled surroundings to make you lose inches where you want to. By maintaining and revitalising tissue elasticity and body tone with full body oxygen therapy, Figurella’s twice-a-week program is suitable for everyone. lose your eyes. Think of a gym. If in your mind's eye you've pictured steel, leather, plastic and mirrors, lycra, loud music and much sweating, you're on the wrong track. Try again. Think warm wood; think gently curving shapes; think regular breathing; think relaxation. Now you're closer to the point. You may not know it, but what you're picturing is called Club Il Vortice, and it's the temple of an exclusive exercise method called Gyrotonic Expansion System® - or GXS if you like. C Rather than dieting, Figurella will improve your body’s metabolism to ensure maximum metabolic efficiency by means of nutritional advice to fit your new Italian lifestyle including pasta, cappuccino and other dainties from the Mediterranean diet: you want to look fabulous, not only slim… Book a free meeting with a Figurella assistant for a program specifically tailored with you as an individual in mind. You will be able to discuss the parts of your body you wish to focus on. You can reduce and resculpture your tights, hips, stomach, arms or any combination with true and lasting results: easy, fast and effective! Is time an issue? Visit the nearest Figurella centre in Florence or Prato. Each treatment last 75 minutes and is strictly by appointment that you can arrange when it best suits you. A professional trainer will personally monitor your progress throughout the program. Enjoy the Italian lifestyle the way Italian girls do… and buy a new bikini you will soon sport out! Il Vortice was established in Florence in 1988 by Pino Carbone, a dancer and choreographer. His dexterity in wood working has enabled him to invent new, custom built physiotherapy and fitness devices, while the GXS experience has made him develop a yoga method to increase concentration and physical awareness in dynamic conditions. The GXS is an ideal program for every sportsperson, since balance and coordination combined with a better control of the posture in both static and dynamic situations are a vital factor in any sport. Athletes who have benefited from the GXS include football, baseball, hockey and tennis players, gymnasts, and cyclists as well as dancers, for whom the GXS was devised in the first place. But the benefits of GXS are by no means limited to sportpeople: to start with, it has proved effective both in the prevention and rehabilitation of injuries. Secondly, it provides a gentle, balanced way for anyone to fight off the symptoms of modern living: joint pains, headache, swollen legs, tiredness, nervousness and even depression. In fact this psychophysical discipline teaches us to develop flexibility, strength, dynamics and concentration capacity, rediscovering the joy of an active and energetic body. For more info visit www.ilvorticeclub.com or drop in at one of the Vortice clubs in via Lambertesca 16 or via Pisana 179: you will discover that your body can be the best place to spend your life in. dal 1870 Farmacia de’Serragli Via de’ Serragli 94/r - 50124 Firenze - Tel. 055.292177 www.farmaciadeserragli.it < 54 > < 55 > Services Services Multiplayer Game Zone by Maddalena Delli any think that computer games are a solitary activity isolating players from the rest of the world, but that's a gross misconception. On the contrary, so long as they don't become an addiction, they offer endless opportunities of getting to know people, habits and languages. There are several kinds of online games, but top of the list for both technology and fun are undoubtedly the role playing games (RPG). They all work with a host-client architecture, where the client is the user who wishes to take part in the game and the host is the server where all the digital players "meet”. M Since the earliest times of Information Technology, MUDs (Multi-User Dungeons) allowed user groups to enter virtual environments and impersonate characters by means of textual descriptions and typed commands. Known as MMORPG (Massive Multiplayer Online Role Play Game), today's games trace their roots to those non-graphical online games such as Adventure and Zork, and to pen-and-paper role-playing games like Dungeons & Dragons. dragons and hideous monsters, fair princesses, ill-tempered goblins, mysterious elves and dexterous knights living their adventures in far-away worlds; some others have science fiction settings, with incredible machines and futuristic metropolis endangered by major conflicts. Thanks to the latest video cards capable of processing millions of polygons per second, today's 3-D graphic interfaces are highly realistic. Contrary to common belief, netgamers often feel the need of meeting each other not just in a virtual but also in a physical environment in order to exchange tips and tricks, share experiences and make new friends. In Florence the answer to that need is Rocket Arena (via Lamarmora 23, tel. 055.576991), which - besides offering the usual internet point services - was established with the precise purpose of creating a "Multiplayer Game Zone," a physical meeting point for netgamers. The most popular iconographic sources are fantasy books, with Open Mon. to Sat. from 9am till 7pm Via de’ Ginori 21- Tel 055.284424 < 56 > SHIPPING Sbisà Foto Ottica P.zza Signoria, 10r ☎ 055.211339 TRAVEL AGENTS Belvedere Viaggi Via dè Serragli 31r ☎ 055.290558 Central SITA V.le Cadorna 105 ☎ 055.4782262 Airlines Booking Center Borgognissanti 3r ☎ 055.288633 TRANSPORTATION Alinari Rental Via Guelfa 85r ☎ 055.280500 Europcar Borgognissanti 57r ☎ 055.290437 Firenze by car (electric vehicle rental) ☎335.8208535 Onda Blu Via Degli Alfani 24r Mail Boxes Etc. Via San Gallo 26r ☎ 055.4630418 Corso Dei Tintori 39r ☎ 055.4630418 Via della Scala 13r ☎ 055.268173 L.no Guicciardini 11r ☎ 055.212002 HOME RENTALS Florence & Abroad Via San Zanobi 58 ☎ 055.487004 Florence Accomodation P.zza della Signoria 3 ☎ 055.487379 Milligan & Milligan Via degli Alfani 68 ☎ 055.268256 LAUNDRY Wash & Dry Via Dei Servi 105r HEALTH Dr. Stephen Kerr Via Porta Rossa1 ☎ 055.288055 Farmacia de’ Serragli Via de Serragli 94r ☎ 055.292177 Farmacia Ponte Vecchio Lungarno Acciaiuoli 4 ☎ 055.287797 Farmacia Santa Caterina Viale Lavagnini 1r ☎ 055.483183 GYMS Danz Forum Il Vortice Via Pisana, 179 ☎ 055.7130123 Il Vortice Via Lambertesca16 ☎ 055.213329 Ricciardi Borgo Pinti 75 ☎ 055.2478444 CULTURE BM Bookshop Borgognisanti 4r ☎ 055.294575 Dischi Alberti Borgo S.Lorenzo 45/49r ☎ 055.294271 Via Dè Pucci 10/22r ☎055.284346 Librairie Francaise de Florence Piazza Ognissanti, 1r ☎ 055.212659 BEAUTY Figurella P.zza S. Maria Novella, 22 Viale dei Mille, 90 Via Finlandia, 22 ☎ 800334400 International Studio Chiasso Soldanieri 6/8r ☎ 055.293393 HairForce Via Ghibellina 74r ☎ 055. 241736 Hito Centro Estetico Via De’ Ginori 21 ☎ 055.284424 Estetica Naturale - Centro Abbronzatura Manicure - Pedicure Depilatory Wax - Massages Needle and Laser Hair Removal Foto Locchi Via Del Corso 21r ☎ 055.213743 < 57 > Servces the meeting place for netgamers INTERNET Caironet Via dè Ginori 59 ☎ 055.217819 Creative Centre The Netgate Via S.Egidio 10r ☎ 055.2344761 Nomination Internet Point Via de Pepi 4/6 ☎ 055.2007792 Rocket Arena Via La Marmora 23 ☎ 055.576991 Www.village.it Via degli Alfani 11/13 ☎ 055.243876 COPY STORES Lory P.zza Frescobaldi 4/9r ☎ 055.213246 X - Graphics Via Della Pergola 47r ☎ 055.2466522 Happy Rent Borgognissanti ☎ 055.2399696