History and traditions of Venice - Fabrizio Fiorenzano Photography

Is s u e 36
M arch 2 0 0 6
£3.45
w w w .ita ly m a g .c o .u k
the NO.1 m a g a z in e fo r lo v e r s o f a ll th in g s ita lia n
people property
h olid a y s
?=;;;;æ;æ.Ë.„+÷,÷.„*„;æ=ƒ
+÷,÷;æ;–;æ;æ;þ:æ;„*„.þ;æ:
þ:æ;þ:æ;„*„.æ;æ?=;;;;0;;8
?=;;;;æ;æ.Ë.„+÷,÷.„*„;æ=ƒ
+÷,÷;æ;–;æ;æ;þ:æ;„*„.þ;æ:
þ:æ;þ:æ;„*„.æ;æ?=æ;ææ=
ƒ;æ;æ.„.Ë=?
?=;;;;æ;æ.Ë.„+÷,÷.„*„;æ=ƒ
s ty le c u ltu re food
P LAC E
H I S TO R Y
A N D
TRA D ITION
ON
THE
V E N IC E L ID O
V
E
N
O
T
E
on
•To r co
e llo
• g
B u r a n oa
M U R A NO
•
L
ce
•
VENIC E
Ve
ni
L id o
Th e is la n d o f M u ra n o h o ld s m a n y
a ttra c tio n s fo r Fabrizio Fiorenzano
M
U RA N O is th e la r g e s t o f th e is la n d s in
th e V e n ic e la g o o n . To g e th e r w ith B u r a n o ,
M a z z o rb o , To rc e llo , Sa n t’E ra s m o , P a le s tra a n d
L id o , it is o n e o f th e o b lig a to ry s to p s fo r to u ris ts v is itin g
V e n ic e . Th e is la n d is n o t a n in d e p e n d e n t lo c a l a u th o rity , a s
m a n y p e o p le th in k , b u t fo rm s p a rt o f th e V e n ic e c o m u n e .
W ith its 7 0 0 0 in h a b ita n ts a n d 7 0 fa c to rie s, p a la z z i a n d s m a lle r
d w e llin g s , it is lo c a te d to th e n o rth -e a s t o f V e n ic e , o n th e
C a n a le d e i M a ra n i. L ittle re m a in s o f its o rig in a l a s p e c t a s
n a tu re c re a te d it a n d to d a y it is a b u s tlin g , w e ll-to -d o a n d
p ro d u c tiv e p la c e .
M u ra n o w a s fo u n d e d b e fo re th e b irth o f C h ris t b y th e
A ltin a ti, w h o n a m e d it ‘A m u ra n iu m ’, a fte r o n e o f th e g a te s o f
th e ir c ity , A ltin ia . Ov e r th e c e n tu rie s it in c re a s e d in im p o rta n c e a n d in th e M id d le A g e s w a s fa m o u s fo r its p o rt a n d
w a te rm ills . Th e is la n d is ju s t a fe w m in u te s fro m V e n ic e in
o n e o f th e m a n y b o a ts ru n b y c o m p a n ie s s u c h a s A C TV w h ic h
le a v e fro m s e v e ra l d e p a rtu re p o in ts e v e ry fe w m in u te s , s to p p in g a t a ll th e la rg e r is la n d s in th e a rc h ip e la g o .
In m a n y w a y s , M u ra n o re s e m b le s V e n ic e . It is b is e c te d b y
a la rg e c a n a l c o m m o n ly k n o w n a s th e C a n a l G ra n d e , w h ic h
is tra v e rs e d b y a ll th e fe rrie s a rriv in g a n d d e p a rtin g . Th e c a n a l
is c ro s s e d b y o n ly o n e la rg e iro n b rid g e , w h ic h is th u s th e
e s s e n tia l c ro s s in g p o in t fo r a n y o n e w is h in g to g o fro m o n e
s id e o f th e is la n d to th e o th e r. Ho w e v e r, u n lik e V e n ic e th e
is la n d h a s n o c e n tra l s q u a re o r o ld q u a rte r.
26
ITALY
MU R AN O
MU
R A N O
’S FA
ME D
FA
C T O R IE S
B ut the real sy mb ol of M urano is its g lass. U ntil 1 2 9 5 , g lass
work ing took plac e in V enic e b ut from that date a statute
issued b y the S tate, fearing outb reak s of fi re within the c ity ,
ordered all furnac es to b e transferred to M urano. F or sev eral
c enturies, the island’s ec onomy has b een b ased on the output
of the doz ens of small c ompanies with their many master
c raftsmen, sk illed in the anc ient art of g lass-b lowing . T he art
was handed down ov er a thousand y ears ag o b y the R omans,
who in their turn inherited it from the eastern empire. As a
result of the b arb arian inv asions, the R omans were forc ed to
fl ee their c ity and found refug e on the islands of the V enic e
lag oon, b ring ing with them their sk ills with g lass.
It is a fasc inating ex perienc e to g o into a work shop and see a master c raftsman, with apparently effortless dex terity , transform a molten
lump of g lass into an ex q uisite work of art,
Opposite:
A rtis a n s o f g la s s w a re
d e m o n s tra te a n c ie n t te c h n iq u e s
L eft:
T h e M u ra n o C o lle c tio n s h o w ro o m
T h is im ag e:
M u ra n o ’s ‘G ra n d C a n a l’ w ith th e V e n ie r F o u n d a tio n s
to th e rig h t a s s e e n fro m th e V iv a rin i b rid g e .
ITALY
27
PLACE
MURANO
using techniques invented centuries ago by the early glassmakers. One of the city’s canals is actually called Rio dei Vetrai
( glassblowers’ brook) and is lined with workshops. It was here
in the distant past that the fi rst ateliers sprang up. The canal is
always busy with boats loaded with raw materials and also
the many visitors who come to admire the Faro, a sturdy cylindrical white tower built entirely from Istrian stone.
DIN
IN G
IN
STY
L E
Also on the Rio dei Vetrai is one of Murano’s most prestigious
restaurants, Stefano Scarpa’s Ristorante dalla Mora. It opened
4 0 years ago as a trattoria and, over the years, has developed
into one of the island’s most ex clusive eateries, easily reached
by disembarking from the ferry at the ‘Faro’ stop. It is an enviable location to sit and dine, either in the cosy dining room
or on the terrace, especially at night by candlelight, with the
lights refl ected in the still waters. The restaurant specialises in
fi sh from the Venice lagoon.
But Murano, as well as being the world capital for the
production of fi ne glassware, is also a place where its long
history has left an indelible mark, with many sites to be
ex plored. The Church of Santi Maria e Donato is one of the
oldest and most important churches of the whole lagoon,
built in the 7th century in typically Byzantine style. Of particular note is the perfectly preserved fl oor made from marble
and glass mosaic, reminiscent of St. Mark’s in Venice. Until
9 9 9 , the church was dedicated to St. Mary but then also took
on the name of St. Donato. In 1 1 2 5 the relics of the Saint of
Cefalonia were brought here and can be seen to this day
behind the high altar. The church is evidence of the vital
importance played by the waters of the lagoon, much more so
than the land, in that the most beautiful feature, the apse,
faces the sea, where it can be admired by those approaching
by boat. The church is one of the fi nest ex amples of VenetianByzantine architecture, although the faç ade is in the Basilica
style of Ravenna. Beside the building stands the detached
campanile, visible from all over Murano. It is in the form of a
square tower in three sections, with three orders of columns
surmounted by the bellchamber with triple windows,
crowned with arches. Close to the church is the San Donato
bridge which links the banks of the canal, It is a beautiful
structure with a delicately curved brick arch.
A bov e: The D alla Mora R estaurant, Fondamenta Manin This image: The S an D onato B ridge with belltower and Church of S t Maria and D onato clearly
visible to the right Opposite, u pper: The mosaic floor with marble and glass inlay s Opposite, right: Colonnade and courty ard of S an P ietro Martire
28
ITALY
MURANO
STRO
BY
TH E
LLING
SH
O P S
Another part of Murano popular
with visitors is the F ondamenta Riva
Longa, close to the Canal Grande and
just 50 metres from the Cathedral.
It is known as the passeggiata di
M urano. The banks have been raised
in a project which ended just a year
ago, and the F ondamenta is now the
most spacious of the island’s promenades, where mums bring their
toddlers for a walk. Here there are
important clothes shops and the
headquarters of the famous factory
‘La Murrina’, which exports highly
prized glassware all over the world
(www.lamurrina.com). It is also the
location of several artists’ studios.
On a mundane level, it is also the
location of the island’s only supermarket and the embarkation point
for ferries direct to Venice airport.
The F ondamenta Venier is another
shopping area popular with tourists.
A splendid example of Romanesque architecture is to be
found in the Church of San Pietro Martire, built in 13 48 in
honour of St. John the Evangelist, destroyed in a fire and
rebuilt in 1511. After its reconstruction, it was dedicated to
St. Peter the Martyr. Its original paintings no longer exist
and the present decoration comes from other Murano
churches which were demolished or closed over the years.
The church contains many valuable works but the two most
outstanding are by Giovanni Bellini, The Assumption of the
Virgin and S aints and D oge B arbarigo presented to the Virgin
and C hild.
When visiting Murano I always ask myself, ‘How do the
people of the lagoon live with water in place of roads? ’ It is
a question asked by many when they visit Venice and the
surrounding islands. The postman arrives by sea, the dustcart is replaced by a ‘dustboat’, the merchandise for the
shops is unloaded from boats and there are many other
examples of this singular way of life. However, it would
seem that people live better here than elsewhere and,
despite what would seem to be a hindrance, the economy
and lifestyle are helped by well-balanced and controlled
systems and the waters become a source not only of richness
but of protection. italy
d et a i l s
i n fo r m a t i o n
Azienda di promozione turistica
tel: (+ 3 9 ) 0 4 1 5 2 9 8 7 1 1 w w w .turismov enezia.it
The best time to visit is sp ring or summer, as the winters are very
cold with a greater risk of rain.
g et t i n g
t h e re
BY W ATE RBU S: From Venice: Alilag una – w w w .alilag una.it
It is advisable to use these boats rather than water-tax is which,
although smaller and faster, are very ex p ensive.
w h e re
to
s t a y
L ocanda C onterie C alle C onterie, 2 1 w w w .locandaconterie.com
H otel Al S of fiador v iale B ressag io 1 1
w h e re
to
e a t
R istorante dalla M ora F ondamenta M anin 7 5
w w w .ristorantedallamora.com
R istorante ‘D a T anduo’
F ondamenta M anin 6 7 / 6 8
w w w .datanduo.it
w h a t
to
d o
Murano glass:
G lass M useum
w w w .museiciv iciv eneziani.it
Glass masters:
B arov ier & T oso P alazzo C ontarini,
F ondamenta V etrai 2 8
w w w .b arov ier.com
V enini F ondamenta V etrai, 5 0
w w w .v enini.it
V etreria de M ajo
F ondamenta N av ag ero, 2 9
w w w .demajomurano.com
ITALY
29