Athlete: Herve Barmasse (ITA)

Athlete: Herve Barmasse (ITA)
Biography: 2011
Category: Outdoor
Born in the shadow of the Matterhorn to a family of mountaineers, Herve is one of the
world's most passionate and accomplished alpinists. The mountains are in his blood, it is in
the mountains that he feels most 'at home' and his passion for life is defined by always
looking for the most absolute mountain experience.
Inspired by the mountain of his birth, he began his career on the Matterhorn and
realised a big dream when he made the first solo ascent of the Matterhorn South
Directissima, as well as opening and repeating many other prestigious routes. He became
expert on all alpine terrain and sought the most challenging ascents - preferring new routes
and making incredible solo speed ascents. He continued a long family tradition to become the
fourth generation of mountain guides - choosing a profession that allowed him to remain close
to his beloved mountains.
Seeking new horizons beyond the Alps, Herve's passion has taken him worldwide Patagonia, Pakistan - new routes, solo ascents and untouched summits. His truly incredible
achievements have commanded world-wide respect. But beyond the technical challenge of
Alpine and Himalayan summits, Herve has extended his mountaineering goals to embrace
the challenge of helping the communities of the Shimshal, Pakistan. In 2010 he gave himself
as a climbing guide instructor and rescue expert to the Shimshal Climbing School in order to
help local porters (men and women) improve both their technique and safety.
Herve lives and breathes the freedom of the nature and the mountains which are his
inspiration. For Herve mountains represent adventure and exploration, his motivation wells
from his deep longing to explore untouched lands and unclimbed mountains.
Website: http://www.hervebarmasse.com/
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Birthdate: 21 December 1977
Home: Valtournenche (Aosta Valley), Italy
Favourite destination: Pakistan, Patabonia
Favourite Mountain: Matterhorn
Favourite Book: Shantaram
Favourite Films: La vita è Bella - Roberto Benigni
Favourite food: Bread, nutella and Spaghetti with Bottarga
Greatest Fear: to no longer be able to go to the mountains
How I relax: being creative
Philosophy: to be alive
What inspires you? my father
Words to live by: Emotion, dream, fear, joy, family, reality, friends, success, failure.
Career Highlights:
- First ascent in alpine style of Venus Peak (6300m), Shaklsgam Valley, China. 2010. (ED
North Ridge)
- Matterhorn/Cervino (4478m), new route Barmasse Couloir (1200m M ABO)
- Pakistan Shimshal Valley.
- First ascent of several ice falls.
- Teaching of courses on safety and progression to porters (men and women) of
Shimshal Climbing School (a school established by the collaboration of Qudrat,
Simone Moro and Hervé Barmasse, with sponsorship from The North Face, Kong
and Camp.
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- Hielo Continental Sur, Patagonia. 2009. New traverse from East to West on the 3 largest
glacier on earth.
- First ascent in alpine style of Miky Sel (6250m), China. 2008.
- First ascent in alpine style of Bekka Brakai Chhok (6940m), Pakistan. 2008.
- Cerro Piergiorgio, north-west face, new route La Ruta de lo Hermano (6b+/A3, 1000m),
Patagonia. 2008.
- First solo ascent of the Matterhornʼs south face, South Directissima, and Spigolo dei Fiori
(Machetto route), 2007.
- Cerro san Lorenzo (3706m), new route on north face Caffe Cortado (ED, 1200m),
Patagonia. 2006.
- Cerro Poincenot (3201m) – Patagonia. 2006
- Aguja Guillaumet (2571m) – Patagonia. 2006
- Matterhorn – First solo ascent of the Deffeyes route (ED, 1300 m) in under four hours - 2005
- Pakistan – Chogolisa Shield – New route: “Up and Down” (grade 6c/7a and A1, 800 m) 2005
- Pakistan – New mixed ice route on an unclimbed peak: “Fast and Furious” (700 m) - 2005
- Pakistan – First complete solo ascent of an unclimbed peak (approx. 6000 m) on the Farol
Peak ridge - 2005
- Pakistan – Naysar Brakk (approx. 5200 m) via the “English Route” - 2005
- Dent dʼHerin – West Face – First ascent of the “Ammazza Geko” route (grade IV+/5, 800 m)
- 2005
- Pakistan – Sheep Peak (6300 m) – new route - 2004
- Pakistan – Chogolisa Shield (approx. 5700 m) – New alpine-style “Luna Caprese” route
(grade 6c max, 1000 m) - 2004
- Matterhorn – South Face – First winter repetition of the “Padre Pio Prega per Noi” route
(grade 6c/7a max, 1000 m) - 2004
- Pizzo Badile – South Face – New route: “Ringhio” (grade 6c obbl., 370 m) - 2003
- Dent dʼHerin – West Face – First ascent of the “Petit Lumignon” route (grade IV/4, 800 m) 2003
- Matterhorn – South Face – First solo ascent and third complete repetition of the “CasarottoGrassi” route (ED, 1300 m) - 2002
- Breithorn (Monte Rosa Massif) – West Face – New mixed route: “Via del Freind” (ED, 600
m) - 2002
- Matterhorn – South Face – New route: “Per Nio” (grade 6a+ obbl., 350 m) - 2000
For further alpine and climbing achievements see: http://www.hervebarmasse.com/
Awards
-Award G. Monzino, 2010.
- Award SAT, 2010.
- Saint Vincent Grolla dʼOra Award, 2007.
- Paolo Consiglio Award from Italian Alpinistsʼ Club - 2005, 2006, 2008.