Get the PDF - Where Venice

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Get the PDF - Where Venice
ALL YOU
CAN DO
IN THE CITY
MARCH 2017
THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO
Venice
www.where-venice.com
YOUR
C
IT
GUID Y
E
LIKE A SCENE
FROM A MOVIE
GIFT IDEAS
OUT OF TOWN
NATURE, HISTORY AND SPAS
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS
®
Venice March 2017
12
the guide
FOCUS
22 SHOPPING
BAGARON
Chanel has chosen
Venice to launch its
second Italian Chanel
Fragrance and Beauty
boutique
C A M PA LT O
MESTRE
34 DINING
44
Located just steps from
the Biennale, the Serra
dei Giardini is a unique
place to dine and relax
SIGHTSEEING
44 SIGHTSEEING
& MUSEUMS
Parco San Giuliano
The Casa dei Tre Oci is
a new exhibition space
dedicated to visual arts
ISOLA DI TES
52 ENTERTAINMENT
Save an Extra 10%
Relax and rejuvenate
at the unique Spa
boasting a spectacular
view on the Island
of Roses
Take this page to our Guest Services to
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The ultimate guide to Venice’s
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38 THE STARS OF TASTE
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dining at several top
hotels in Venice.
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36 “FIVE STAR”
TÀ
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Take advantage of your
stay in Venice to enrich your
wardrobe with the season’s
latest offerings.
AM
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CC
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DE LA LAVANDER
LIB
18 GIFT GUIDE
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LL
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Discover and identify those
places most frequently captured
and portrayed in the history
of filmmaking.
58 ESSENTIALS
CA
12 VENICE MOVIE MAP
ISOLA SAN GIORGIO
24 LUXURY TOP BRANDS
ne
A Ponte dei Sospiri
breathtaking view
This month's round-up of shows,
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and performances.
taz
io
COVER
A must-visit destination famous
for its colourful houses
and handcrafted lace.
DE
6 HOT DATES
SIGHTSEEING | MUSEUMS | ENTERTAINMENT | SHOPPING | DINING | MAPS
OF BURANO | ITINERARY
E
Enjoy the city, starting from
its main landmark attractions.
oS
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www.where-venice.com
Contents
22
CH
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ON
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MARCH 2017
THE MONTHLY GUIDE TO
ALL YOU
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IN THE CITY
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WHAT A TOURIST! Angelina Jolie lived in Venice for several months while shooting ‘The
Tourist’. In order to have a ‘little privacy’, she rented the entire Palazzo Mocenigo where she
stayed with her children and Brad Pitt. Ah…those were the days!
This year, the month of March offers Venice a relatively peaceful time.
Although the influx of tourists never completely stops, the calendar at
this time of year means that there is a long break between the festivities
of Carnival (which ended on 28 February) and the Easter celebrations,
which fall in April in this year. This could be a good time to enjoy a less
crowded Venice, enhanced by longer days and a milder climate. In fact, if
everything goes according to plan and the weather is on your side, you
will find yourself enjoying a city that is so beautiful that you’ll have the
impression of being permanently on a film set.
You can limit yourself to enjoying the marvels that nature and onethousand-five-hundred years of history have put together for you or,
you can opt for a more organized itinerary and have fun discovering
all the views, squares, streets and canals that have been used as movie
locations. If you choose the latter, we have already done some of the
work for you. This month’s Focus offers an overview of the feature films
shot in these places. Test your knowledge and have fun seeing how
many titles you remember!
As spring approaches, sailing to the islands becomes an even greater
pleasure. Don’t miss a visit to Murano, Burano and Torcello, three
destinations associated with Venetian craftsmanship: glass, lace and an
absolutely fabulous gastronomic experience await you only 30-minutes
away by vaporetto.
Finally, keep an eye out for unplanned happenings (also listed on our
website). As with most Italian cities, Venice loves organizing spur-of-themoment festivities to welcome spring.
Elena Binda, Editor
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[ SIGHTSEEING]
Top in town
MORE AT
PAGE 45
and adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of
devotion to San Rocco who was called upon
to protect the plague-stricken population of
Venice during the 15th century. The interiors
are filled with numerous treasures.
PHOTO © DANIMISRA
PALAZZO DUCALE
A masterpiece of Gothic art and a repository
of innumerable art treasures, it features a
number of different and intricate architectural
and ornamental details, dating from the
9th century. Formerly the residence and
government centre of the Doges, it is
superbly decorated by artists like Titian,
Tiepolo and Tintoretto.
Canal Grande
Piazza San Marco with the Basilica and the Tower
EDITOR'S TIP
Palazzo Ducale
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO
This is the most important Catholic church
in the city, and one of the most important
monuments in Italy. The original church
dates back to before the year 1000; inside,
a triumphant array of domes and transepts,
mosaics and gold, marble and numerous
other treasures.
PONTE DI RIALTO
This is the oldest and most beautiful of
the four bridges crossing the Grand Canal.
Originally built during medieval times as
a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest
point to facilitate access to the popular Rialto
market, it is still a hub of commerce and is
4  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
lined on both sides by shops. It includes as
many as 120 steps.
CANAL GRANDE
Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful
street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the
main waterway of Venice. Lined on both
sides by an uninterrupted series of palaces,
churches, hotels and other public buildings,
it offers a journey back into history, evoking
the pomp and splendor of the ancient
Serenissima.
SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO
The external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell) stairwell of
Palazzo Contarini - an exquisite, late Gothic
building - is enclosed in a cylinder perforated
like lace. The architectural beauty of the stairwell,
combined with the view that can be enjoyed on
reaching the top, is well worth a visit.
TEATRO LA FENICE
Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored
to its former splendour (the last time was
between 1996 and 2003), for centuries
La Fenice theatre has been Venice's principal
stage for world-class opera, music, theater,
and ballet.
CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE
DI SAN ROCCO
A Renaissance complex consisting of a church
Ponte di Rialto
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Dear Reader, as you can see from reading our magazine,
the editorial staff of Where® has done its best to
accompany you on your discovery of Venice. Have we
been helpful? Please let us know what you consider most
interesting or let us have your feedback if you’d like more
in-depth information. This will help us to offer you an
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Receiving "Italia Luxury" on a regular basis will enable you
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w w w. w heretravel er. com  5
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
MARCH
UNTIL MONDAY
27
AUTHENTIC VENETIAN ARTISANSHIP
Hosted at one of the Lagoon’s most spectacular house
museums, this is your last chance to visit the exhibition
dedicated to Venice’s famous Cadorin dynasty. Three
generations of artists, architects, sculptors, restorers,
musicians and photographers working in Venice between the 18th and
19th centuries and establishing themselves as a constant presence on
the thriving Venetian art scene are showcased here. More than 200 works
are on display in the truly spectacular setting of the Palazzo Fortuny
house museum.
The Cadorin bottega. A dynasty of Venetian artists
Palazzo Fortuny
San Marco, 3958 (Campo San Beneto)
fortuny.visitmuve.it
MARCH
HOT DATES
6  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
© EGIUDICI_WHEREITALIA
Whether it’s discovering the events celebrating tradition, art and music
or visiting an exhibition, Where® brings you this month’s unmissable dates.
w w w. w heretravel er. com  7
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
MARCH
FROM FRIDAY
24
CARMEN,
THE PRICE
OF FREEDOM
© PAOLO SOLARI BOZZI, KAP HOPE, SCORESBYSUND, EAST GREENLAND, 2016
SATURDAY-SUNDAY
25-26
© CARSTEN EGEVANG, WEST GREENLAND, THULE, 2014
THE FORCE OF NATURE
▲ The appeal of the Arctic region,
an awareness of topics related to
environmental sustainability and
climate change are the themes explored
in ‘Arctic. The Final Frontier’. The exhibition features 120 black and white
images by Paolo Solari Bozzi (Rome, 1957), Ragnar Axelsson (Iceland, 1958) and
Carsten Egevang (Denmark, 1969), three masters of photo reporting whose
work explores the landscapes and people of Greenland, Siberia, Alaska and
Iceland. Until 2 April.
The exhibition is set against the spectacular backdrop of "Casa dei Tre Oci", a
splendid example of early 20th century Venetian architecture (see page 44).
Arctic. The Final Frontier
Casa dei Tre Oci - Giudecca - Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43
Open daily 10am-6pm (closed on Tues). www.treoci.org
Carmen, Georges Bizet
Teatro La Fenice
San Marco, 1965 (Campo San
Fantin)
www.teatrolafenice.it
WEDNESDAY
TUESDAY
14
► This comic opera in four
acts by Georges Bizet was
performed in Paris in 1875 for
the first time. It will be staged
at the Teatro la Fenice this
evening under the direction
of Calixto Bieito. Distinguished
pianist and conductor MyungWhun Chung will conduct
the performance. Veronica
Simeoni and Roberto Aronica
will appear in the title roles of
Carmen and Don José. This
unusual interpretation is based
on its last season’s successful
version. Until 4 June.
SHOWCASING
JEWELRY
► The Museo del Gioiello (Jewelry
Museum) in Vicenza is the first
in Italy and one of the few in the
world dedicated exclusively to
jewelry. It is definitely worth a visit if you happen to
be in the area during the afternoon (3pm-7pm). This
unique 450 sq.m space, designed by Patricia Urquiola,
is housed inside Vicenza’s Basilica Palladiana, which
recently inaugurated its second exhibition edition
(2017-2018). An artistic project curated by 10 new
international curators which highlights the culture
of the area and aims to promote the fabric of jewelry
production that has made Vicenza the ‘capital of
jewelry’.
Museo del Gioiello 2nd edition 2017-2018
Piazza dei Signori 44, Basilica Palladiana, Vicenza
www.museodelgioiello.it
8  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
1
FROM THURSDAY
16
AMERICAN DANCERS ON TOUR
► Founded in 1985 in New York by choreographer David Parsons and light designer
Howell Binkley, Parsons Dance embodies a mixture of athletics, acrobatics and
poetry. Boasting more than thirty years of performance, the company has gained
international acclaim and has become one of the best-loved groups on the old
continent. A leader of contemporary and post-modern dance, its creations combine the expressiveness
of the body in combination with narrative elements and dramatic cues, engaging the emotions of the
audience and captivating them with these personal interpretations. Until Saturday 18.
Parsons Dance
Teatro La Fenice (Teatro Malibran) - San Marco, 4387.
www.teatrolafenice.it
PEGGY GUGGENHEIM
CELEBRATES SURREALIST ART
◄ This week marks the opening of an exhibition
dedicated to the work of Rita Kernn-Larsen. Little
known outside her native Denmark, Kern-Larsen,
a prominent Danish surrealist artist, whom Peggy
Guggenheim met in Paris in 1937, was invited by
Peggy the following year to exhibit her paintings
at a one-woman exhibition at the London-based
‘Guggenheim Jeune’ gallery, a show that launched
Peggy’s career as a patron of Surrealist art.
This intimate exhibition inaugurates the two new
‘Project Rooms’; spaces designed to host special
projects, with the aim of analyzing the work of 20th
century artists or specific themes connected to the
Peggy Guggenheim collection. Until 26 June.
Free presentations of the exhibition daily (3pm).
Rita Kernn-Larsen.
Surrealist Paintings
Peggy Guggenheim Collection, Project Rooms.
Dorsoduro, 701 (Palazzo Venier dei Leoni).
www.guggenheim-venice.it
w w w. w heretravel er. com  9
Hot Venues
WHERE NOW | HOT DATES
MUSEO EBRAICO DI VENEZIA
Cannaregio, 2902/b. Map D2
www.museoebraico.it
› 15 January – 5 March 2017
FACES AND STORIES OF A COMMUNITY.
Portraits objects memories
ANNUAL EVENTS IN VENICE
APRIL
Festa di San Marco/Feast of St. Mark > (25 April)
In addition to being a national holiday, on 25 April
Venetians also celebrate Saint Mark’s day.
Venice Night Trial > (29 April)
Urban trail run 16 km through the historical centre of Venice.
MAY
Festa della Sensa (or Ascension festivity 27-28 May) >
A masked parade in St. Mark’s Square to celebrate
the Serenissima and the ‘Sposalizio del Mare’
(Marriage of the Sea) ceremony
JUNE/JULY
Vogalonga (4 June) > 43rd edition of the 30 km rowing
marathon through S. Erasmo, S. Francesco del deserto, Burano,
Mazzorbo, Murano and the Grand Canal.
The competition is open to the public.
Biennale of Art “VIVA ARTE VIVA”
(13 May-26 November, Arsenale and Giardini) >
57th international exhibition of Contemporary Art
Biennale of Dance > (23 June-1 July)
Feast of San Piero de Casteo > An end-of-June festivity
to celebrate the arrival of summer: the focal point of the event
is the Island of San Pietro di Castello.
JULY/AUGUST
Festa del Redentore / Feast of the Redeemer >
(16 July) One of Venice’s best loved festivals, the event features
a parade of boats in the Giudecca and fireworks.
Biennale of Theatre (25 July-12 August)
AUGUST/SEPTEMBER
International Exhibition of Cinematographic Art >
(30 August-9 September) Now in its 74th
consecutive year, the exhibition is organized
by the Biennale of Venice.
SEPTEMBER/OCTOBER
Regata Storica / Historic Regatta (3 September) >
One of Venice’s foremost rowing competitions, it is preceded by
a spectacular parade of historic 16th century craft.
Biennale of Music (29 September-8 October)
Venice Marathon (22 October)
NOVEMBER
Festa della Salute > 21 November
A popular religious feast day.
DECEMBER
Christmas Concert at St. Mark’s basilica
10  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
TUESDAY
7
FONDAZIONE CINI. SAN GIORGIO
MAGGIORE
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. Map G6
www.cini.it
› 18-31 March 2017
FROM PORTRAIT TO THE ICON.
The charm of an actress through photography
CA’ PESARO – INTERNATIONAL GALLERY
OF MODERN ART
Santa Croce, 2076. Map E3
www.capesaro.visitmuve.it
› 11 February – 28 May 2017
WILLIAM MERRITT CHASE (1849-1916)
Un pittore tra New York e Venezia
ART MEETS ASTRONOMY
▲ A breathtaking visual journey through our Solar System to the borders of the
observable Universe, through famous images captured by the Hubble Space
Telescope, a hugely successful collaboration between NASA and ESA. In addition
to these images, the exhibition features installations by 10 Italian artists who
have created paintings, sculptures and site-specific installations inspired by the
marvels of space. This combination of science and art provides the viewer with a
different perspective of the Universe around us, inviting us to think about where
humanity fits into the grand scheme of the Universe. Until 17 April.
This exhibition will travel to other locations in Europe, the USA and Australia.
Our Place in Space
10 Artists inspired by Hubble Space telescope images
Istituto Veneto di Scienze, Lettere ed Arti - Palazzo Cavalli Franchetti
Campo Santo Stefano
www.spacetelescope.org
CA’ D’ORO – GALLERIA GIORGIO
FRANCHETTI
Piazza San Marco, 63. Map F4
www.cadoro.org
› 3 March – 2 July 2017
SERENISSIME TRAME. Tappeti della
Collezione Zaleski e dipinti del Rinascimento
a Venezia
WEDNESDAY
15
A MIXTURE OF CHARM
AND ENIGMA
► Described as “paintings featuring
hybrid animals and scenes of
witchcraft”, the works of Bosch, a
fascinating, enigmatic artist, are
unveiled at Venice’s Palazzo Ducale.
This unique exhibition will capture the
attention of the public and academics
alike, and serve as a means of
highlighting Venice’s artistic heritage.
The focal points of the exhibition
are three works by the artist that are
preserved in Venice and have been
recently restored to their original
splendour. Until 4 June.
Jheronimus Bosch e Venezia
Palazzo Ducale
Piazza San Marco, 1
www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it
Bellini e i Belliniani, Palazzo Sarcinelli (Conegliano). Marco Bello, Circoncisione (XV-XVI century)
MURANO GLASS MUSEUM
Fondamenta Marco Giustinian, 8 (Murano). Off Map
www.museovetro.visitmuve.it
› 7 October 2016 – 25 April 2017
MURANO OGGI. Emozioni di vetro
PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION, VENICE. PHOTO- DAVID HEALD
FEBRUARY
Carnival of Venice > Shows, masked parades
and music in ‘calli’, squares and palaces.
© EGIUDICI_WHEREITALIA
JANUARY
New Year’s Eve Concert > Arias and operatic
selections at La Fenice Opera House.
PEGGY GUGGENHEIM COLLECTION
Dorsoduro, 704. Map E5
www.guggenheim-venice.it
› 12 November 2016 – 13 March 2017
TANCREDI. A RETROSPECTIVE.
My weapon against the atom bomb is a blade
of grass.
› 25 February – 29 June 2017
RITA KERN-LARSEN.
Surrealist paintings
COMING SOON
LA BIENNALE DI VENEZIA 2017
www.labiennale.org
VIVA ARTE VIVA – 57TH INTERNATIONAL
ART EXHIBITION
Arsenale and Giardini
› 13 May – 26 November (preview 10, 11, 12 May)
BIENNALE DANZA
› 23 June – 1 July
BIENNALE TEATRO
› 25 July – 12 August
74TH VENICE INTERNATIONAL FILM
FESTIVAL
› 30 August – 9 September
BIENNALE MUSICA
› 29 September – 8 October
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
OUT OF TOWN
VICENZA. GALLERIE D'ITALIA-PALAZZO
LEONI MONTANARI
Contra' Santa Corona, 25. Vicenza
www.gallerieditalia.com
› 4 February 2017 – 7 January 2018
LE AMBRE DELLA PRINCIPESSA
TREVISO. MUSEO DI SANTA CATERINA
Piazzetta Mario Botter, 1. Treviso.
www.lineadombra.it
› 29 October 2016 – 17 April 2017
STORIE DELL’IMPRESSIONISMO.
I grandi protagonisti da Monet a Renoir,
da Van Gogh a Gauguin
CONEGLIANO. PALAZZO SARCINELLI
Via XX Settembre, 132. Conegliano (Treviso)
www.mostrabellini.it
› 25 February – 18 June 2017
BELLINI E I BELLINIANI
Ca’ d’Oro - Galleria Giorgio Franchetti.
Floral carpet with fighting animals.
Central Persia, Isfahan? 16th century
(Galleria Moshe Tabibnia)
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS
Venice
movie map
OLD-WORLD ELEGANCE
With its exquisite stuccoes and
tables overlooking St. Mark’s
Square, Venice’s historic Caffé
Florian has appeared in numerous
films, including 'The Talented
Mr. Ripley' (in the opening page)
and 'Summertime' (seen here on
the left). Established in 1720, a
stopover at Florian is an absolute
must, to rediscover the authentic
mood of 18th century Venice.
While Venice holds even those visiting it for the
hundredth time in thrall, it’s no surprise that countless
directors and filmmakers also fell under the spell of the
city. In fact, several of its most breathtaking, mysterious
views have taken centre stage in more than 700 feature
films. This one-of-a-kind movie map will help you
discover, and identify, those places most frequently
captured and portrayed in the history of filmmaking.
B Y S I M O N A P. K . D A V I D D I
After skirting the Grand Canal and entering Sestiere
Dorsoduro, we come to Ca’ Rezzonico, whose rooms
served as a backdrop for several scenes featured in
Moonraker (1979) starring Roger Moore as James Bond.
Just a little further on, another favourite Hollywood
location is Campo San Barnaba, home to the church of the
same name. The famous scene from Indiana Jones and
the Last Crusade (1989), in which Harrison Ford climbs
out of a manhole in the middle of the ‘campo’, startling
customers seated at the tables of a nearby bar, was shot
here. The church, which also appears in the film, was
used as a location housing an imaginary library. Campo
San Barnaba is also the home of the shop owned by the
antique dealer with whom Katherine Hepburn fell in love
in Summertime (1955). And, Rio San Barnaba was also the
place where this leading lady fell into the water. Hepburn
was forced to repeat the scene of her fall three times. The
same setting, with a totally different atmosphere, was used
for the scenes featuring the first boat chase through the
canals in The Italian Job (2003): due to the high speeds
at which the boats flew through the canals, the producers
were forced to ask the lagoon authorities for a series of
special permits to shoot the scenes.
12  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
It’s past one o’clock and you’re starting to feel hungry.
After a short walk, you’ll reach the famous Antica Locanda
Montin, in Fondamenta Borgo 1147, where the lunch
scene of one of the greatest classics of all times,
The Anonymous Venetian (1970), starring Florinda
Bolkan and Tony Musante, was filmed.
On walking back towards the Grand Canal, you’ll find
another Venetian landmark that has appeared in several
films. This is the Basilica of Santa Maria della Salute: in Zelig
(1983) it acts as the backdrop for the interview conducted
by social commentator Susan Sontag – who plays herself –
regarding the mysterious identity of its main character, the
satirical Woody Allen. In Lara Croft: Tomb Raider (2001),
the Basilica is the church where the ‘Illuminati’ meet, and it
can be seen behind the shoulders of Ripley (Matt Demon)
in The Talented Mr. Ripley (1999) during his dialogue
with Dickie’s father (the scene was filmed at the Westin
Europa & Regina). It also appears in The Tourist, when
Angelina Jolie is seen boarding a water taxi on her way
to the Venice Biennale…however, it’s a shame that, in the
film, the church is shown on the left of the landing stage
meaning that instead of heading towards the Arsenale, the
headquarters of the event, the actress is actually going in
the opposite direction!
ST. MARK’S SQUARE: A DIRECTOR’S DREAM
The opposite bank of the Grand Canal can be reached
from the Basilica via a comfortable gondola-ferry. This
gondola is larger than the standard type and is designed
to carry 15 people at a time (at exorbitant prices). The
docking station of the Grand Canal, located almost directly
in front of Campo Santa Maria del Giglio, is home to the
Hotel Gritti, immortalized by Woody Allen in Everyone
Says I Love you. The interior of La Fenice Opera House,
which is just steps from the Hotel Gritti, was used to shoot
parts of Luchino Visconti’s Senso (1954). In fact when a fire
destroyed the opera house in 1996, enlarged frames from
this film sequence actually helped restorers to reconstruct
its original plans. Just a little further on, you’ll find palazzo
Contarini del Bovolo, renowned for its picturesque, 16th
century Byzantine staircase. Legend has it that this was the
home of Desdemona, but in his 1952 version of Othello,
Orson Welles portrays it as Brabantio’s house in Cyprus.
We have now reached the heart of Venice, St. Mark’s
Square. Photogenic, scenic and stunningly beautiful,
w w w. w heretravel er. com  13
PHOTO BY DELFINO SISTO LEGNANI AND MARCO CAPPELLETTI © DFS GROUP.JPG
C
anals, ‘campielli’, alleys, neighbourhoods
and gondolas, plus domes, exquisite
mullioned windows, scenic bridges and
majestic bell towers. There is no view of
the lagoon city that has not appeared,
at least once, in a motion picture. Each
portrayal has always been unique: whether immortalized
in romantic, melancholic, mysterious settings or acting as a
backdrop to love stories or thrilling chases.
Our itinerary starts from the main ‘gateway’ to Venice,
the Santa Lucia railway station, where Angelina Jolie and
Johnny Depp met in The Tourist (2010), and where in
Venice, the Moon and You (1958), unlikely gondolier,
Alberto Sordi buttonholed foreign tourists. After crossing
the Ponte degli Scalzi and heading south, we reach
the Scuola Grande di San Rocco, where Woody Allen
attempted to seduce the beautiful Julia Roberts in
Everyone Says I Love you (1996). The Scuola Grande’s
sumptuous Sala del Capitolo is featured once again in
Lasse Hallström’s Casanova, where it is used for a ball
organized by the Doge.
WHERE NOW | FOCUS
the square has appeared in numerous films
and film sequences that have gone down in
movie history: from the scene in which Sean
Connery as 007, throws a tape into the waters
of the canal in the final scene of From Russia
with Love (1963), to another 007, Roger
Moore, who, in Moonraker, is seen hurtling
past St. Mark’s Square, while escaping his
pursuers on a super motorized gondola that
conveniently converts into a speedboat. An
interesting fact: during the shooting of the
landing sequence, Roger Moore fell into the
water five times! In Casino Royale (2006), the
hotel, inhabited by James Bond alias Daniel
Craig, boasts a magnificent view over St. Mark’s
Square (but don’t try looking for this hotel,
14  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
because it doesn’t exist). In Nosferatu in
Venice (1988), Klaus Kinski is seen crossing the
mist shrouded square while, in Casanova, the
square is magically restored to its original 18th
century splendour with horses and carriages,
five-hundred extras were hired to make the
setting more lifelike. Even the final scene of
The Talented Mr. Ripley was shot in this area,
at the tables of Caffé Florian, one of the oldest
cafés in Italy.
Lying next to the square, and spanned by the
Bridge of Sighs, is Rio Canonica, which made
a recent appearance in Ron Howard’s Inferno
(2016). In the film, the lead, Tom Hanks, is seen
crossing the canal on a ‘Mototopo’, a typical
lagoon craft.
THE GRAND CANAL
Now let’s head towards the Arsenale in Sestiere
Castello. In Senso, this building, which was
formerly one of the largest factories in Europe
during the pre-industrial era, becomes the
barracks where the countess goes in search of
her lover while, in The Tourist, it is used as the
headquarters of Interpol. After a pleasant stroll
amidst ‘campi’ and ‘campielli’, we come to the
beautiful church of Santa Maria dei Miracoli.
Used by Orson Welles as a setting for the
marriage between Desdemona and Othello,
this church is decorated with polychrome
marble which, according to legend, was stolen
from the building site during the construction
of St. Mark’s Basilica. Now we are nearly at the
Rialto Bridge. However, before crossing it, if you
look at the bank lying just to the left of it, set
between Palazzetto Dolfin and Palazzo Remer,
you will recognize the palazzo that collapsed
into the Grand Canal in Casino Royale.
Obviously the building that collapsed was only
a digital artifact! Lying beyond the bridge is
the Rialto fish market where, in The Tourist,
in order to escape from his pursuers, Johnny
Depp leaps down from the roofs above the
fish market onto the awning of one of the stalls
(an interesting fact: these scenes were shot on
Monday, when the market is closed).
While looking over the Grand Canal, we are
reminded of numerous scenes from famous
films. These include 007’s improbable crossing
on a sail boat in Casino Royale – during the
shoot, the crew were forced to dismantle the
mast several times in order to allow it to pass
under the bridges – Nikita (1990), Luc Besson’s
masterpiece, in which the young spy/assassin
travels around Venice in a motorboat with her
boyfriend, wearing a straw gondolier’s hat and
carrying a model of a gondola, the final regatta
in Casanova and several scenes from Inferno
and The Merchant of Venice (2004). During
the shooting of the latter, both the Rialto Bridge
and the Canal were closed to the public for a
few hours. Several other locations in Sestiere
Cannaregio are also worth a visit: the Ca’ D’Oro,
whose rooms were used to shoot scenes from
Romeo and Juliet (1954), the Scuola Grande of
Santa Maria della Misericordia, where the dance
POSTCARDS FROM THE LAGOON
On the left, a picturesque view of the
Grand Canal, one of the ‘sets’ best-loved by
directors and immortalized – among other
places- in several scenes from 'The Tourist'
(starring Angelina Jolie and Johnny Depp)
and 'Casino Royale' (featuring Daniel Craig).
Above, the sumptuous Sala degli Stucchi
of the iconic, Lido-based Hotel Excelsior.
This was one of the locations chosen to film
scenes from 'Once Upon a Time in America'
(starring Robert De Niro and Elizabeth
McGovern).
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WHERE NOW | FOCUS
HISTORIC LOCATIONS
On the page at the side, a recent
picture of the Antica Locanda
Montin (Fondamenta Borgo 1147)
and one showing what it looked
like in 1970, during the filming of
'The Anonymous Venetian', starring
Florinda Bolkan and Tony Musante
(below, the façade of the Casa dei Tre
Oci). On this page: above, the historic
and elegant Hotel Des Bains, on the
Lido where, in 1911, Thomas Mann
set his short novel titled 'Death in
Venice', and also the place where,
in 1971, Luchino Visconti shot
the screen version of the book
(on the left).
HUGO PRATT’S VENICE
An eclectic artist but, above all, the
creator of Corto Maltese, a ‘graphic novel’,
celebrating its 50th anniversary this year,
Hugo Pratt wrote: “There are three magical
and hidden places in Venice: one is in Calle
dell'Amor degli Amici, one is near the
Ponte delle Maravegie and the other is in
Calle dei Marrani, near San Geremia in the
Old Ghetto. When Venetians feel that they
can no longer endure the establishment,
they go to these secret places where,
on opening the back doors to these
courtyards, they wander off into beautiful
spaces, and other stories..." Despite their
grandiose names, these three places really
16  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
exist, and you only need to stray slightly
from popular tourist itineraries to find
them: Calle Amor dei Amici is in Sestiere
San Polo; the tiny Bridge of Marvels is
in Dorsoduro and the Calle dei Marrani
is actually the Salizada Santa Giustina in
Sestiere Castello.
The tavern that appears in Corto’s stories
is the Trattoria da Scarso in the little
square of Malamocco, while Pratt chose
Titian’s home in Cannaregio, in Corte del
Tiziano, as Corto’s domicile. Finally, one of
Pratt’s favourite haunts in Venice was Caffé
Florian, whose celebrated Corto Maltese
cocktail is dedicated to him.
party scene in The Tourist was set, and the
campo del Ghetto Novo, where Alida Valli and
Farley Granger fell in love in Senso.
THE ISLANDS AND THE LIDO
Moving onto the islands, we find the former
Benedictine monastery of San Giorgio
Maggiore. Dating back to the 10th century,
but restyled by Palladio in the 16th century,
it was depicted as Portia’s palace in The
Merchant of Venice (2004). Villa F on the
Island of Giudecca, appears in The Tourist,
while the nearby Casa dei Tre Oci (its name
refers to the three large windows on its
facade) was used as Valeria’s (Florinda Bolkan)
house in The Anonymous Venetian. On
reaching the Lido, the Hotel Des Bains,
located on the Lungomare Marconi is worth
a mention. It was here in 1911, that Thomas
Mann set his novel titled Death in Venice, and
also here in 1971 that Luchino Visconti shot
the screen version of the book. An interesting
fact: the director brought in six trucks loaded
with object d’art and Art Noveau furniture to
reproduce the hotel’s fin de siecle splendour.
This elegant hotel also ‘played’ the Shepeard
Hotel in Cairo in The English Patient (1996),
while nearby the equally luxurious Excelsior
– and more specifically its sumptuous Sala
degli Stucchi – was the Long Island restaurant
where Robert De Niro reserved a table for his
date with Elizabeth McGovern in Once Upon
a Time in America (1984).
Looking for the perfect shoot?
Romena Brugnerotto
Tourist Advisor
www.rominvenice.com
Visitors to Venice always bring a camera with
them hoping to capture the essence of the
city. This is not always easy and weather is a
common concern for all photographers.
There are days in which the sky is so clear
that you can see the mountains lying behind
Venice. Seize the moment and climb to the
top of the Bell Tower of San Giorgio, where
you’ll have a bird’s-eye view over the city.
A new favourite aerial observation point,
especially at sunset, is the highly soughtafter terrace of T Fondaco dei Tedeschi,
Venice’s lavish, high-end shopping centre
(please note that weekends can get crowded
and you might have to queue).
Are you interested in capturing real life
scenes rather than monuments? In the
mornings, head to the Rialto Fish Market,
where the locals and restaurant owners
purchase fresh fish. However, remember
that markets are above all places of business,
so you can understand how vendors feel
when a photographer ‘hogs’ the space in
front of their stall waiting for the ‘perfect’
image. We therefore suggest that you work
quickly, without getting in the way of the
business people. While in the area, you
can stop in at one of the nearby bars; try
an aperitivo or a ‘cicchetto’ at Lino Fritto.
Where ‘real life’ scenes are concerned,
make sure to snap a few photos of Venice’s
Aperitivo hour, the time when Venetians
relax, socialize and prepare their palates
and stomachs for dinner. Take a tour of the
areas around Campo Santa Margherita or
the Fondamenta della Misericoria, where
you can even drink a Spritz, the Venetian
aperitivo par excellence, on a boat.
Taking nighttime photographs of the city
can also be a unique experience. Don your
walking shoes and set out from the Zattere
because the Giudecca offers numerous
interesting views, when lit up.
What happens when it’s foggy, a fairly usual
occurrence in Venice? Dismal days shouldn’t
stop you from capturing some amazing
shots of the city’s churches and ‘palazzi’.
Stand on one of the city’s many bridges, the
bridge of the Accademia is a good option,
and find the right light to work with.
Finally, if you’re a fan of winter seascapes,
head to the beaches of either Alberoni or
Pellestrina, which still boast traces of their
original wild nature.
w w w. w heretravel er. com  17
WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
GIFT
GUIDE
Whether you choose an
accessory or a fragrance
for him or for her, a jewel
or some local items, you
will certainly be spoilt for
choice in the magic of
Venice. Take advantage
of a stroll through its
picturesque ‘calli’ to treat
yourself to an accessory
or some other alluring
detail of style. Where ®
guarantees that you won’t
leave empty-handed!
► DECLARE
Luxurious minimalist Madein-Italy items, Declare’s bags
are renowned for their
unconventional, sophisticated
aesthetic. This jade green, full
grain calf leather shopper can
be purchased at the brand’s
San Polo boutique. www.dclr.it
▼ BOGGI MILANO
Building on its reputation for sharp tailoring, Italian
menswear label Boggi Milano dresses today’s
contemporary man. For spring 2017 it proposes
these two custom-fit shirts. One in poplin stretch
cotton with a Tokyo collar and the other in flamed
denim with a soft collar. www.boggi.com
▼ BURBERRY
This Burberry twill cotton low-top sneaker
with House Check motif and suede
leather trim adds a touch of chic to all
outfits. Available at the Al Duca d’Aosta
boutiques (www.alducadaosta.com)
it.burberry.com
HER
◄ TIFFANY & CO.
One of the most feminine models of all
Tiffany Keys, this ‘Daisy’ pendant in 18k pink
gold features an elegant floral design, offset
by a round diamond. A brilliant beacon of
optimism and hope. www.tiffany.com
◄ JAEGER-LECOULTRE
Featuring timeless Art Deco
lines, this stainless steel ‘Reverso
Classic Medium Small Second’
watch houses a small seconds
counter whose clean-cut lines
add a touch of charm to the
timepiece. The back of its case
can be personalized with a
hidden engraving.
www.jaeger-lecoultre.com
HIM
▲ GEMS OF VENICE
From a unique boutique and
workshop located in the heart of
Venice, this work of art is part of
an elegant collection of stunning
pieces. Memories of a distant past
infused with a contemporary look.
www.gemsofvenice.it
18  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
▲ MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS
The spring/summer 2017
accessories ‘Resort’ line by MICHAEL
Michael Kors focuses on clean-cut
lines and graphics. The collection
also highlights a black and white
theme as shown by these ‘60’s-style
sunglasses.
www.michaelkors.it
◄ CALVIN KLEIN
‘Eternity Intense’ for men opens with a fresh,
aromatic touch of bergamot with base notes
of cedarwood and iris that celebrate the
intensity of this fragrance.
it.calvinklein.com
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WHERE NOW | ITINERARY
The island of Burano
The island is the capital of handmade lace,
a craft kept alive for centuries by the wives
of fishermen waiting for their husbands
to return from sea. The work is extremely
exacting, with each woman specializing in a
single stitch. Since there are seven stitches
in total, each piece is passed from woman
to woman to finish. Groups of women work
diligently for days to produce items, whether
large or small, of matchless beauty: trims
for dresses, accessories, tablecloths, gloves,
umbrellas and masks, all made from this
delicate, white lace, crafted with a painstaking
attention to detail that has lasted for
centuries. For example, though it can take
up to five months to make a rectangular
tablecloth for 12 people, the island’s lace
makers are now equipped to deliver your
item of choice to anywhere in the world.
(Please note: since an authentic, handcrafted
item takes hours of work, you need to be
cautious if the price seems too low. The risk
that the lace is not handmade and not even
Venetian is now a sad reality). While on the
island, make sure to visit the Museum of
Lace-Making to understand why something
so exquisite should not become extinct
(Burano, Piazza Baldassarre Galuppi, 187).
In addition to Murano and Torcello, this island on the Venetian Lagoon should not
be missed. Loved (and widely photographed) by tourists, it is famous for its colourful
houses, butter biscuits and above all, its handcrafted lace. By Stefano Traine
Zilli
POCKET BURANO
You can also take the
houses of Burano home as
a souvenir. On the island
you can find a number of
artisans specializing in the
reproduction of brightly
coloured, miniature districts.
However, the noblest craft of
all is the lace-making. The lace
made here is truly an example
of an ancient art!
20  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
A little less famous than its twin, Murano
- the island of glass, with which it is often
confused, due to the similar names (only the
first letter changes), lace, in no way inferior to
its sibling’s blown glass, has made tiny Burano
famous. With a population of only three
thousand inhabitants, its colourful houses
make it is one of the most picturesque places
on earth.
THE HOUSES
Thank heavens for smartphones! The idea
of arriving on Burano and realizing that
you’ve forgotten your camera could be a
catastrophe. The island’s row of houses,
whose facades boast all the colours of the
rainbow, are truly spectacular! However,
the origin of this tradition of painting the
houses in bright colours was not only for
aesthetic reasons. Legend has it that its
fishermen, often confused by frequent banks
of fog (and, truth be told, by the amount of
liqueur consumed to keep them warm…),
devised a chromatic code that would help
them identify their own landing piers more
easily after a long day’s fishing. Each colour
corresponded to a family, to their house and
to their address.
BURANO LACE
Burano’s brightly-coloured houses are not the
only thing worth admiring.
BISCUITS AND OTHER SWEET TREATS
Butter biscuits known as Buranelli (either ring
or S-shaped), are famous on the island and
you will be offered them wherever you go.
However, this is not the only specialty that
you’ll find. The island has a long-standing
gastronomic tradition linked, above all, to
fresh fish. Here is our pick, among the many,
of several historic eateries. Da Romano (famed
for its ‘risotto di Gò’); Da Ruggero al Gatto
Nero (all the pastas and desserts are made
in-house, and the fish is so fresh and delicious
that even Jamie Oliver has recommended Al
Gatto Nero on his television show); and finally
Ai Pescatori e Dal Vecio Pipa. Bon Appetit!
HOW TO REACH BURANO
One Vaporetto line runs from Venice
to Burano: the number 12. The journey
lasts for approximately one hour after
embarking at the Fondamente Nove
stop (the Vaporetto runs at 10 minutes
past and 20 minutes to the hour). If
you’re not in a hurry, the Venetians
recommend another alternative: you can
take the 14 line from San Zaccaria (the
Pietà stop), which stops at the Lido. It’s
a good opportunity to take a look at the
venue where the Film Festival is held,
and admire the works by MOSE, the huge
hydraulic engineering project completed
to protect the Lagoon.
w w w. w heretravel er. com  21
SHOPPING
H
E
O
W
M
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
R
.C
E T
R
R A V E L E
Guidelines ACCESSORIES
The
This directory, grouped by category, is a list of
establishments recommended by the editors of
Where Magazine and includes regular advertisers.
MAP LOCATIONS- Note that references in bold
at the end of each listing (A1, B5 etc) refer to
the coordinates on the street maps on pages
62-63.
TRANSPORT-References to vaporetto lines and
stops are based on departure from the Santa
Lucia railway station.
SHOPPING -Shopping hours are generally from
10am to 7pm; less centrally located shops still
take the traditional lunch break. Most shops
are closed on Sundays (except those located in
central Venice) and on Monday mornings. Ask
your concierge.
Visitors should note that VAT is 22% and it is
generally included in the price of goods.
PHOTOS © GIULIO PALAFERRI
»
TAX-FREE SHOPPING
By law, non-EU residents are entitled to
reclaim the VAT paid on items purchased
and exported from the EU: before finalizing
a purchase, they should ask the shop assistant
whether they are eligible for a tax refund.
Anatema
Rossana Righini delights customers with her scarves,
brooches, costume jewelry, bags, hats and silk,
handmade ties. Her windows and display cases
express the owner’s philosophy: “The culture of
beauty, the magic of elegance”. PASSION TIP
Anatema also stocks small Murano glass jewelry.
Open daily 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm. www.anatema.it.
San Polo, 2603. T: 041 5242221. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Tomà stop). Map D4
Declare
Although the goods sold by this small independent
brand are targeted at an international clientele, its
owners are true blue Venetians. Its sleek black fitout
provides a dramatic backdrop for its sought-after,
butter-soft leather bags and accessories handcrafted
by artisans using full-grain Tuscan leather. Open
daily 10.30am-7.30pm. www.declarevenice.com. San
Polo, 2671 B/C (Calle Seconda dei Saoneri) T: 041
8223227. Other locations: San Marco 3801 (Calle
della Mandola). T: 041 5225559. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Samuele stop). Map D3
Fanny Gloves
Colourful, handmade gloves, from the most classic to
the most eccentric, lined with cashmere, silk or lapin.
Since 2001, Giorgio Fontanive has continued to run
this family-owned business, established by his fatherin-law, a Neapolitan glove maker. The brand recently
opened a second branch in Cannaregio, in Rio Terà
San Leonardo. Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm7.30pm. www.fannygloves.it. San Polo, 2723 (Calle
Saoneri) T. 041 5228266. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San
Tomà stop). Map D2
Francis Model
Stylish, high-quality bags with a focus on colour.
Established in 1965, this small artisanal ‘bottega’ has
always remained faithful to the diktats of Made in
Italy craftsmanship. Located just steps from the Rialto
Bridge, Ruggero De Zorzi devotes himself to his craft
with pride and passion. Open daily 10am-7.30pm.
www.francismodel.it. San Polo, 773/A (Ruga Ravano).
T: 041 5212889. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato stop).
Map E3
G. Pagan
The result of ongoing research, G. Pagan’s bags
and accessories are made from prized materials:
crocodile, python and even eel. Everything here is
about style, it’s worth a visit! It also has another store
in Calle della Mandola. Open daily 10am-7.30pm.
San Marco, 54 (Sotto le Procuratie). T: 041 5208924.
Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop).
Map F5
UnionPay Service Hotline:
00 800 800 95516
e-mail: [email protected]
Beauty “à porter”!
Chanel, the historic maison renowned for its double ‘C’ logo, has chosen Venice to launch its second Italian
Chanel Fragrance and Beauty boutique. By Stefania Vida
A
space inspired by the universe of the
maison, where aesthetic codes and
the elements with which Madame
Chanel loved to surround herself are perfectly
re-interpreted through the creativity and
modernity for which the brand is renowned.
Located in the heart of the city, thanks to
interactive experiences and dedicated events,
this dynamic concept store opens the doors to
the world of Chanel.
The boutique comprises three specific areas:
Make-up, Soin and Parfum. In the ‘Makeup’
area, you will find the latest trends, makeup
previews, exclusive creations and a ‘Virtual
Makeup’ station which, thanks to an App, offers
customers the option of simulating a makeup
look and then receiving images of the look
via e-mail with a detailed list of the cosmetics
used. On the other hand, the ‘Soin’ section is a
dedicated area showcasing different treatment
lines designed to satisfy the wishes and
22  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
requirements of each and every woman. Lastly,
‘Parfum’ is an olfactory space devoted to the
universe of fragrances, enhanced by made-tomeasure rituals. The experience is completed by
a corner dedicated to ‘Les Exclusifs’, a collection
of 16 iconic fragrances inspired by the life of
Coco Chanel.
The boutique also offers a services menu
designed to offer customers a 360-degree
‘Chanel experience’. Services on offer include
quick makeup tutorials, more structured
maquillage workshops , a ‘trip’ in discovery
of Chanel’s scents thanks to personalized
consultations and the creation of a bespoke
beauty routine using the house’s fabulous array
of skincare products.
The whole is completed by a rich calendar
of events including makeup and skincare
workshops as well as experiences dedicated to
discovering and testing classic Chanel scents on
your hunt for ‘the one’.
>> www.chanel.com
San Marco 1254/A
T: 041 2708699
UnionPay is a global payment network originated
from China, responsible for the inter-bank
payment via UnionPay system worldwide.
By June 2016, over 350,000 merchants in
Italy accept UnionPay card for payment, among
which 30,000 merchants are located in Venice.
This allows hundred of thousands of affluent
Chinese customers to shop with their favourite
cards. UnionPay also actively work with famous
retail groups, such as DFS Group, McArthurGlen
Designer outlets, SINA hotels, Airport dutyfree
shops, to provide special discount or services for
UnionPay cardholders.
DINING
Reservations for most restaurants are strongly
advised. In Italy, service is included in the
price meaning that although tipping is not
compulsory, it is obviously appreciated as
a sign of satisfaction. Some menus include
the word “coperto”, a small surcharge
corresponding to the cost of the service and
bread. Although no dress code exists in Italy,
semiformal clothing is usually considered de
rigueur at restaurants. All restaurants and bars
are non-smoking unless a separate smokers’
area is specifically offered.
Set meals: prices are per person and usually
refer to a 3-course meal (beverages excluded).
€ = 30 € or less / €€ = 31-50€ / €€€ = 51-100€ /
€€€€ = 101-150€ / €€€€€ = 150€ and above.
SIGHTSEEING
Information about our selection of museums
and monuments is checked as carefully as
possible. However, telephone numbers,
opening hours, works displayed and site
accessibility are subject to change depending
on the time of the year, restorations, loans or
changes in management. Ask your concierge.
Contemporary shopping
experience
Spread over four floors surrounding an inner courtyard, luxury department store
Coin Excelsior in Cannaregio is located just steps from the Rialto Bridge. A trip into
the universe of fashion dedicated to the worlds of clothing, beauty and accessories.
The ground floor hosts some of the world’s most coveted perfume brands including
Jo Malone, Bond No. 9, Byredo and Diptyque as well as a sought-after selection of
products dedicated to beauty. The first and second floors are devoted to women’s wear
collections while, on the third floor, the offer of menswear is targeted at a discerning
clientele in search of a gentlemanly selection of contemporary and classic apparel.
Finally, the top floor is the go-to space for Coincasa’s must have home decorations.
The store’s inner courtyard hosts ‘Be Happy’, the site-specific lighting installation created
by well-known storyteller and multidisciplinary artist Felice Limosani.
Open daily 10am-8pm. www.coinexcelsior.com.
Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
w w w. w heretravel er. com  23
[ FA SHION DESIGNERS]
Luxury Top Brands
A new addition every day!
The world of designer
boutiques in Venice is
making waves, and the
majority of big-name brands
are located around
St. Mark’s Square, the great
heart of Venice. By heading
towards the Accademia
from St. Mark’s Square, you
will find yourself in Calle
Larga XXII Marzo, the widest
street in the city, lined with
the window displays of the
most coveted international
brands. A system of ‘calli’
(the word for street in
Venetian dialect) known
as the ‘Mercerie’ leads
from the Clock Tower in
St. Mark’s Square to the
Rialto, where Venice’s old
‘botteghe’ (workshops)
have now been replaced by
luxury boutiques.
»
From a few months, the world’s
most coveted brands have a
new home that gathers them all
under one roof: T Fondaco dei
Tedeschi, the first luxury Venetian
department store, located just
steps from the Rialto Bridge.
BALENCIAGA—www.balenciaga.com
Open daily 10am-7pm. Calle Vallaresso,
1310. T: 041 5230806. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
BORSALINO—www.borsalino.com. Open
Mon-Sat 10am-2pm/3pm-7pm; Sun 11am7pm. San Marco, 4822. T: 041 2411945.
Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto-Riva del Carbon
stop). Map F4
BOTTEGA VENETA—www.bottegaveneta.
com. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. San Marco,
1473 (Salizada San Moisè). T: 041 5205197.
Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso
stop or S. Maria del Giglio stop).
Map F5
CHANEL—www.chanel.com. Open Mon-Sun
10am-7pm. San Marco, 2070 (Calle Larga XXII
Marzo). T: 041 2405399. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Valleresso stop). Map E5
CHANEL BEAUTY NEW OPENING San
Marco, 1254/A. T: 041 2708699. Vaporetto
line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Valleresso stop).
Map F3
CHURCH’S—www.church-footwear.com
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am7pm. San Marco, 1316 (Calle Vallaresso).
T: 041 2410147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
DAMIANI NEW OPENING
www.damiani.com. Open daily 10am-7.30pm.
San Marco, 1320 (Calle Vallaresso).
T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
DIOR— www.dior.com Open daily 10am-7pm.
Piazza San Marco, 1255 (Calle Larga de
I’Ascension). T: 041 2411636. Vaporetto
line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).
Map F5
DOLCE&GABBANA—www.dolcegabbana.it
Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco,
233/266 (corner of Mercerie dell'Orologio).
T: 041 5209991. Vaporetto line 1
(San Marco-Giardinetti). Map F4
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA—www.zegna.com.
Open daily 10am-7pm. Bocca di Piazza
San Marco, 1241. T: 041 5221204. Vaporetto
line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).
Map F4
PRADA'S spring/summer women’s collection,
including these sandals embellished with floral
appliqué, is inspired by gardens in bloom.
24  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
LOUIS VUITTON—www.louisvuitton.com
VALENTINO—www.valentino.com
Open 6.30am-9pm. Marco Polo Airport.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Sun 10.30am-8pm.
T: 041 2698001. (open 6.30am-9pm).
San Marco, 1345. T: 041 5224500. Vaporetto
line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).
VERSACE—www.versace.com
Map F5
Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco,
1462 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041 5200057.
MICHAEL KORS—www.michaelkors.com.
Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso
San Marco, 1461 (Campo San Moisè). T: 041
stop). Map F5 • Marco Polo Airport.
2960312. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoT: 041 2611556 (open 6.30am-9pm).
Vallaresso stop). Map F5
ETRO—www.etro.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1340 (Calle Vallaresso).
T: 041 5232599. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop).
Map F5
In CHANEL’s precious ‘Les 4 Ombres’ palette, each
colour can be used on its own or blended
for a more intense look.
MISSONI—www.missoni.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1312 (Calle Vallaresso).
T: 041 5205733. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
MIU MIU—www.miumiu.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1471 (Salizada San Moisè).
T: 041 8106066.Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San
Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
FENDI—www.fendi.com. Open Mon-Sat 10am7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1582
(Calle Frezzaria). T: 041 2778532. Vaporetto
line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop).
Map F4
FRATELLI ROSSETTI—www.fratellirossetti.
com Open daily 10am-7pm. Campo S.
Salvador, 4800. T: 041 5230571. Vaporetto
line 1 (Rialto stop). Map F4 • Open Mon-Sat
10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San Marco,
1477 (San Moisè). T: 041 5220819. Vaporetto
line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop).
Map F5
PRADA—www. prada.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 1464/1469 (Salizada San
Moise). T: 041 5283966. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
RENÉ CAOVILLA— www.renecaovilla.com.
Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1296.
T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
ROBERTO CAVALLI— www.robertocavalli.com
Open daily 10am-7pm. San Marco, 1314.
T: 041 5299020. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
GIORGIO ARMANI—www.armani.com Open
Mon- Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10am-7pm. San
Marco, 4412 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo). T: 041
8503048. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco
Vallaresso stop). Map F4 • Armani Jeans at
Marco Polo Airport.
SAINT LAURENT—www.ysl.com. Open MonSat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. San Marco,
1302. T: 041 5202211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
GUCCI—www.gucci.com. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 2102 (Calle Larga XXII
Marzo). T: 041 2413968. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
• Open daily 10am-7.30pm Piazza San
Marco, 258 T: 041 5229119. Vaporetto line 1
(San Marco-Giardinetti stop). Map E5
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO—
www.ferragamo.com. Open Mon-Sat
10.30am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7pm.
San Marco, 2098 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo).
T: 041 2778509. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
• Marco Polo Airport. T: 041 268357
(open 6.30am-9pm).
HERMÈS—italy.hermes.com. Open daily
10.30am-7pm. San Marco, 1292. T: 041
2410715. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F5
LORO PIANA—www.loropiana.com. Open
daily 10am-7pm. San Marco Ascensione,
1301. T: 041 2770695. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5 •
Marco Polo Airport, Viale Luigi Broglio, 8
(open 6.30am-9pm). T: 041 5415072.
TIFFANY & CO. NEW OPENING
www.tiffany.it. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San
Marco, 1336 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037.
Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso
stop). Map F5
TOD’S—www.tods.com. Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm;
Sun 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7pm.
San Marco, 2251 (Calle Larga XXII Marzo).
T: 041 5206603. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
Sporting a flower embellished leather
shoulder strap, this season’s flirty ‘Scout’ bag
by MICHAEL MICHAEL KORS adds a touch
of spring to your look.
Sizing
Women clothes
IT
EURUS UK
36321 4
38342 6
40364 8
42386 10
44408 12
464210 14
484412 16
Women shoes
IT
EURUS UK
36366 3
37376.5 4
38387.5 5
39398.5 6
40409 7
41419.5 8
Men clothes
IT
EURUS UK
504636 36
524838 38
545040 40
565242 42
585444 44
605646 46
Men shoes
IT
EURUS UK
40407.5 6
41418 7
42428.5 8
43439 9
444410.510
454511.511
464612 12
This season’s catwalk mood from VERSACE is infused
with an air of fresh innovation. The brand’s trademark
sensuality is combined with ‘practical’ details in terms
of both shapes and fabrics.
w w w. w heretravel er. com  25
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CALLE DEL
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CAL
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SEST
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CALLE
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CALLE DEI FUSERI
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CAL
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Redentore
E
in the historic centre, the Ravagnan Gallery is one
of the city’s oldest, most exclusive art galleries in
the city. It exhibits works by artists of national and
international renown, exports art works throughout
Hundertwasser' Garden
the world and participates at prominent international
and American art fairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm;
Sun 10am-6pm. www.ravagnangallery.com. Piazza
San Marco, 50/a. T: 041 5203021. Vaporetto line 1 (San
Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
CA
LL
E
DE
LL
A
FO
ND
U
RD
Established at the end of the 1960s by Stefano
Contini to indulge his passion for art, the gallery
is a reference point for dealers and collectors
specializing in contemporary art works and
sculptures. In addition to Venice, other branches
of the Contini galleries are located
Mestre and
Lein
Zitelle
LE
Cortina D’Ampezzo. Artists
showcased
include
EL
T
ZI
A
NT
Botero, Mitoraj, Christo,
Picasso, Fontana and
ME
DA
N
FO
Giacometti. Open
daily 10.30am-1pm/2pm-7.30pm.
E
www.continiarte.com.
San Marco, 2288 (Calle Larga
OC
CR
TA
E N XXII Marzo). T: 041 5230357. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San
AM
D
N
FO
Marco-Vallaresso). Map E5
O
US
Russia
Pavilion
IA
DE
R
L C
GI
N
PA
LLE
CA
IZ IO
CA
S
DE
AMEN
C.
C.
FOND
ERA
SA
TA
Giardini
O SP
E A
C
OS
E CR
C A L L E C ATA PA N
EN
S. Giorgio
G
SAN GI
ACOM
N
PAL
LLE
CA
GE
René Caovilla
In the 1950s, twenty-year-old René started working
at his family’s footwear factory, revealing his talent
as a ‘footwear sculptor’. Based in Venice, he has
collaborated with fashion houses of the likes of
Valentino, Dior, Galliano, Chanel and is noted for the
stunning line of "jewel shoes" he co-created with
Karl Lagerfeld. Shoe-designer to the stars, A-listers
who adore his creations include Gwen Stefani, Robin
Wright, Britney Spears and Sarah Jessica Parker.
PASSION TIP His pumps in Venetian lace are truly
iconic! Open daily 10am-7pm. www.renecaovilla.
com. San Marco, 1296. T: 041 5238038. Vaporetto line
1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
AM
RIO
Contini Galleria d’Arte
E
CALL E ORTI
ND
E
M E N TA
NA
RI
AL
CALLE DELA CREA
Spirito Santo
GIUDECCA
FONDA
OLO
C A L L E G I A N B AT T I S TA T I E P
ZAT TER
MA
VI
ME NTA
FO
TT E
O
NE
SA NT
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ITO
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SP IR
ET RO
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RT ES IN
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DE
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CALL
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CA
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DEI PRE
RTELLO
CA
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DE
Arsenale
100 m
ENA
CHI
RUGA VEC
C. VOLTO
FOND
I
S. Marco (Vallaresso)
ARS
RA
COLTRE
DEI CO
E N TA
ARSENALOTTI
M
OR
OS
IN
A
S. Zaccaria (Pieta')
DAM
DEI
ELLO
LO CAST
FOND. RIEL
CA
LL
E
FON
FONDAMENTA
CH
FO ND
RAMO PRIMO DE LA PERGOLA
CAL LE
CALLE
RIN
ST
PE
DE
ITTI
GR
CALLE FRIZIER
ON
MI
LA
E
LL
CA
CAL LE
HIAV
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UO
LE
CAL
CR
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ER
A
A
DELFIN
CALLE
NES
Tucked away under an arcade just steps from the
Rialto bridge is a tiny boutique with an astonishing
selection of handmade slippers where Alessandra
and Renato make and sell colourful ‘furlane’
(slippers), handcrafted with recycled bicycle-tyre
treads, ideal for finding your footing on a gondola.
Their creations are available in coloured velvet,
brocade, printed fabrics or recycled shirting,
provided by their customers. PASSION TIP
Highly original and absolutely unmissable! Open
daily 10am-7.30pm. www.piedaterre-venice.com.
San Polo, 60 (Ruga Rialto, Sotoportego dei Oresi).
T: 041 5285513. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato).
Map E3
CA LL
R
NATE
PIG
CA
LL
E
CAL LE
I SC
LL
LA
CAMPO
BANDIERA
E MORO
GRIMANI
CALLE
CO LO
A
DE
ADA
SALIZ
CALLE TERA
ZZERA
PIOVAN
DEGL
CA
ENTA
PAL LAD
TIN
AR
M
TO
E SC
UO
FON DAM
N
SA
SO
Piedàterre
CA LL
A
CIN
PIS
IONE
RIVA
L’A
NZ
OL
O
DEL
FONDAMENTA
CENS
RIDOT
ARES
CALLE
E PIC
O
L’ARC
DEI FORNI
LL
E VA
O
TA PO
NT
E DE
CALL
FONDAMENTA
CALL
T'AG
CAMPO
DELLA
SALUTE
style are the hallmark traits of Venetian shoe designer
Michele De Fina. Open daily 10am-1pm/2pm-7pm.
www.micheledefina.com. San Marco, 318/A (Calle
della Canonica). T: 041 3030189. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(San Marco stop or San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
SM
VIN
CALLE DEL
O
A AS
CO
SALIZ
ADA
SAN
ANTO
NIN
CALLE DE
LA PIETA
’
LARG
LE
CAMPO
SAN
LORENZO
S. Zaccaria (Danieli)
Zitelle
AM EN
CAMPO
SAN
PROVOLO
N
SMARI
DE L’O
LLE
FO ND
FO ND
CAMPIELLO
DUE POZZI
CALLE DEI FURLANI
CA
e
Mois
AN
AT I
IA
NS
Highly select leather shoes, its owner oversees each
stage of the working process from the cutting of the
leather to the end creation. Craftsmanship and Italian
FEM
HA
Michele De Fina
'EU
NG
Macrì
This shoe boutique in San Marco - its other branch
is located in Frezzeria - has been a reference point
for discerning Venetians since the 1970s. Its owner
Jacopo Nobili sells sought-after, classic men and
women’s shoes, distinguished by their Made in Italy
aesthetic. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San Marco, 420
(Calle Larga). T: 041 522 9956. Vaporetto line 1 (San
Marco stop) Map F4• Open daily 10am-7.30pm. San
Marco Frezzeria, 1583. T: 041 522 8997.
NT
JU
An historic Venetian shoe shop which has been
producing its own-name sleek, butter-soft leather
shoes for men and women since the 1940s. It also
stocks a wide selection of international brands
including Church’s, Timberland, Camper, Michael
Kors, Bikkemberg sandals and Siton loafers.
La Parigina also carries an assortment of luxury
sportswear. www.laparigina.it. Open daily 10am7.30pm. San Marco, 733. T: 041 5231555. Vaporetto
line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4 • Open daily
9am-1pm/4pm-8pm. Venezia Lido, Gran Viale S. M.
Elisabetta 14, T: 041 2420475. Vaporetto line 2 (Lido
stop). Off Map
SA
CALLE LION
CAMPOIELLO
DE LA
FRATERNA
IRI
La Parigina
TA
PRETI
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
MENTA
FONDA
C. PI
AN
TO
N
FONDAMENTA DEL VIN
TT
O
LE
OL
MART
CORTE
BAROZZI
San
C AL
EN
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LO
PEL
AP
AC
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BIA
DEI
CALLE
O
EDICI
O
CA NO
DE LA
PIAZZETTA
DEI LEONCINI
zzo
SE
L
VA
CA
RR
O
INA
PRIM
NTAR
RAMO
E CO
CORT
ISE’
Rio
E DE
L
ND
LL A
Salute
Giudecca Palanca
AM
O
l Pala
L
OR
CA
DEL
E TR
TE
PASSION TIP The only shop in town where you
can find authentic gondolier’s hats. Open Mon-Sat
10am-7pm. www.giulianalongo.com. San Marco, 4813
(Calle del Lovo). T: 041 5226454. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(Rialto stop). Map F4
ND
MA RC
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CALL
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SA N
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del Giglio
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INA
CAMPO
SAN LORENZO
CALLE SAN LORENZO
AM EN
CAMPIELLO DELLA
CONFRATERNITA
GATE
FRUTARIOLI
San Francesco
della Vigna
O
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CA
CORTE
CE SC
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ED
LL
CA
RO
VE
N SE
SA
CAMPIELLO
QUERINI
STAMPALIA
San Lorenzo
E SA
N FR
AN
DE LE
ADA
SALIZ
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LE BA
ZON
CAMPO
SANTA
GIUSTINA
Rio San Lorenzo
E DE
CALL
CALLE LARGA SAN LORENZO
TA
EN
AM
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CA
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N
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SANTA
DEL CAF
ETIE R GIUSTINA
DETTO DE
BARBARIA
CAL LE
FONDAMENTA SAN LORENZO
A
Santa Maria
Formosa Palazzo
Grimani
ART GALLERIES
SA
INA
TERR
N
DE
RIO
SA
L
FOND AME
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EN TA
E
LL
CA
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MICHIEL
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A
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GA
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C. DEL
DE LA FAVA
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MA
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N SA
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della Fava
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AR
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CAMPO
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CA LLE
DE
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LL
Ma
ri t t
Chiesa dell’Ospedaletto
R
CA
DI
CAMPO
O
SANTI GIOVANNI
E PAOLO
FO RN
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ERB E
IE
N
SI
O
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AN
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ne
CAL LE
ST
D
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PA
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az
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St
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Ba
cin
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ST
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MARCO
ET
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EN
O
A milliner boasting a longstanding family tradition
dating back to the early 20th century, Giuliana
Longo’s fame has spread far beyond the boundaries
of Venice, thanks to her unique Venetian aesthetic.
Her shop is the dream hat-cupboard of any
true sartorialist, amidst old-world furnishings,
original panama hats and handmade headgear.
AF
RO
AM
MP
Giuliana Longo
CA
CAMPO
SANTA MARIA
DEL GIGLIO
CAMPIELLO
SAN VIDAL
CA
Giovanna Zanella
For the past ten years, Venetian designer-cobbler
Giovanna Zanella has been creating exclusive lines of
shoes for men and women at her workshop located
just a stone’s throw from the Rialto Bridge. Each pair
is endowed with its own, unrepeatable personality
and Giovanna refers to them as “magical, haute
couture creations” because they are often enhanced
by a surprise element like touches of nylon, cobra
heads, pistils or fringes. Open Mon-Sat 1.30pm-8pm.
www.giovannazanella.it. Castello, 5641 (Calle near
Campo San Lio). T: 041 5235500. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(Rialto stop). Map F4
LC
VE
TA
CAMPIELLO
SAN CATALDO
Austrian by birth and Venetian by adoption,
Gabriele Gneimer is a real footwear guru, boasting
an impressive resume. The designer studied at
several of the world’s most prestigious design
schools and several of her handcrafted pieces are
exhibited at museums. Her shoes, known as ‘Ferrari
Footwear’, are built entirely around the shape of her
customers’ feet. Open Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm-6pm.
By appointment only. www.gabrielegmeiner.com.
San Polo, 951 (Campiello del Sol). T: 338 8962189.
Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco stop). Map E3
DE
CALL
PISC
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Accademia
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26  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
ND
ERI
Gabriele Gmeiner
E
Spirito Santo
FO
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ND
CA
LO
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CA
LA
SA
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San Gerardo
CAMPIELLO
SAN GERARDO
LL
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DO
AS
FOND AMEN
SACCA
SAN
RÀ
CALL
L
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LL
CA
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LL
CA
RO
CA
Giudecca Hilton
N TE
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LT
DE
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PON
CA
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Casa di Marco Polo
C. M
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SA
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AG
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DE
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CA
TR
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FOMO
CAMPIELLO
DE LA
VIDA
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FO
LL
CA
DEI PUT
IA
LAR GA
TEATRO
CORTE
DEL
FORNO
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DEL
nde
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ST
A
CORTE DEL
PIA
CO
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DI SAN MARCO
EL
NIER
CALLE
BA
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N
S. Toma' SX
ED
RE
CAMPO
SAN BENETO C
AL
LE
SESTIERE
ENT O BEA
TE GIU LIAN
A
CAMPIELLO
DEL VAPORETTO
DEL LA
OL
Palazzo
Querini
San Salvador
As its name suggests, more than a shop, SV LabStampalia
is a
CAMPIELLO
DELLA
CHIESA
Sant'Angelo
FON DAM
CA LLE
IO
RA
FO ND
Dorsoduro 3172. T: 041 2776142.
FISOLA
www.camacana.com
UR
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CA
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SAN TOMÀ
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LL
CA
LL
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CAMPO
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Giudecca Hilton
MA
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CA
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LA
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A
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Teatro
Carlo Goldoni
E
LL
CA
I PR
CA
ERA
SCOAZZ
DE LA
E
ZIENZ
N
BE SA
CA
LL
E
Palazzo
Grimani
SA
LIZ
ZA
DA
Rialto
Rialto
(Palazzo Cavalli)
I
AN
IM
GR
AMEN
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SEGO
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di Rialto
C. DE
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AC
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CORTE SECONDA
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Fontego
dei Tedeschi
CAMPO
RIALTO
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Fontego
Palazzo Rava Dolfin Manin
E
LL
CA
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San Giacomo
di Rialto
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S.Silvestro
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and
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SAN GIACOMETO
CAMPO
DE
SAN SILVESTRO
CAMPOIELLO
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Palazzo
Querini-Dubois
DORSODURO
San Sebastiano
SA LIZ
BR
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ST
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PA
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CAMPO
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Chiesa Rettoriale
di S. Polo
CAMPO
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Basilica
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UA
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Istituto Universitario
Di Architettura
One of the oldest and finest mask
making workshops in Venice for
Carnival, theatre, film production and
parties. Ca’ Macana crafts authentic
handmade masks in the same way that
Venetian artisans did 800 years ago,
never repeating a decoration in order
to ensure that each mask is unique.
Their masks were featured in important
film productions including “Eyes Wide
Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas
including those staged by the Vienna
Opera House.
ES
CALL
CALL
CALLE CON
TARI
TA
G
O’
M
LA
C AL
AL
CAMPO
CESARE BATTISTI
GIÀ
DELLA
BELLA VIENNA
Educational Ars
creative workshop that its owner Carlo Sartori likes
San
Giuliano
to describe as “his parallel
world”.
Not just aSan
shop
Giovanni
Novo
San
Luca
San
Beneto
La
Biennale
di
Venezia
San
Pantalon
Rio de
i Tole
Giardi
Teatro alle Tese
ntini
selling shoes and accessories - a place where you
Palazzo
Palazzo
Giustinian
Nervi
Rio
San Giorgio
CAMPO
de le
Persico
can create a sophisticated, eccentric total look - but
Palazzo Fortuny
dei Greci
MANINScattolin
Verg
ini
also an open space where it is not unusual to find
Arsenale di Venezia
Palazzo
Palazzo Balbi Mocenigo
location features over
the classics of the male wardrobe: the suit, a second
artists at work... Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun
100 top San Zaccaria
fashion brands for men San Martino
skin that is so comfortable that it can be worn on any
Basilica2663 (Campo
11am-6pm. www.svlab.it. San di
Marco,
San Marco
CAMPO DI
Maria
and women, Santa
carefully
selected
to
occasion. Other locations: Cannaregio (inside the
San Giovanni
Battista
SANTA
Bacino
della
Pietà
San
Maurizio).
T:
041
5220595.
Vaporetto
line
1
(Giglio
O
MARGHERITA
in Bragora
La Biennale di Venezia - Arsenale
Orseolo
RC
CAMPO
MA
offer its clientele
quality and elegance.
Santa Lucia Railway Station, Platform 6- Fondamenta
SAN
SANT’ANZOLO
A
San
Fantin
stop).
Map
E5
Z
Z
NI
Palazzo
Palazzo Ducale
H I AV O
PIA
R I VA D
LI SC
ini
E G L I for
Grassi
include
casual
men’s
lines
a
sporty-chic
Santa
Lucia,
20) and Marco Polo Airport. Open
A DEG
SCHIA
arm
R I V These
C
Santo
Stefano
V
Museo
O
l
NI
de
San Samuele
Rio
Correr
Ca' Rezzonico
Teatro la Fenice
look, sartorial designs for savvy-style gentlemen and
Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 10.30am-7.30pm. www.
Santa Maria
CAMPO
CO
AR
SANTO STEFANO
M
dei Carmini
N
SA
San Moisè
women’s wear, featuring the iconic accessories of the
boggi.it. San Marco, 1744 (Bacino Orseolo). T: 041
San Barnaba
LO
San Maurizio
CAMPO
Palazzo Loredan
MO
SAN MOISE’
latest collections, including small leather goods and
2960321. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso
Bugno
Art
Gallery
Santa
Maria
CAMPO
Museo Storico Navale di Venezia
del Giglio
SAN MAURIZIO
San Francesco
bijoux, for a glamorous, cosmopolitan aesthetic. The
stop). Map F4
Situated in front of the La Fenice Theatre, the
di Paola
CAMPO
San Vidal
store offers numerous special facilities and services
I
gallery has cooperated with well-known artists
PISANI
IBALD
E GAR
Palazzo
P
P
E
IUS
VIA G
Corner
Ca'
Giustinian
for
its
customers,
including
a
Personal
Shopping
on the Venetian scene including Guidi, Giuseppe
della
Ca’Granda
service and Tax Free Shopping. Open Mon-Sat
Santomaso, Emilio Vedova and Armando Pizzinato,
Palazzo
Ponte
Coin Excelsior
10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.alducadaosta.
as well as other international contemporary painters.
Pisani
dell'Accademia
Chiesa di Ognissanti
Gritti
RI
Located in Cannaregio,
just a few steps from the
VA
com. San Marco, 4945. T: 041 5220733. Vaporetto line
Gallerie
Particularly noteworthy among the illustrious names
Canal Grande
DE
dell'Accademia
I S
Palazzo
Rialto
Bridge,
this
luxury
E T department store store
Map
F4
1
(Rialto
stop).
represented by the gallery are Luca Campigotto,
TE
Collezione Peggy Genovese
M
San Trovaso
Guggenheim
AR
Punta della Dogana
extends over four floors surrounding
the original
TI
Paolo Ventura,
Ben Vautier, Mario Schifano, Arman,
RI
San Giu
Boggi
Milano
Basilica di
San Gregorio
indoor
courtyard
where
designer
Felice Limosani’s
di Cas
Salvo,
Joe Tilson, Maurizio Galimberti, Marco Zanta,
Santa
Maria
della Salute
An easy yet sophisticated look for businessmen
lighting installation is showcased. The store provides C A M P O
Giovanni Chiaramonte. Open Mon-Sat 10.30amSAN ISEPO
on the go, but, above all, a guarantee of style for
a selection of both Italian and International fashion
7pm; Sun 4pm-7.30pm by appointment. www.
Santa Maria
del Rosario Sant’Agnese
those
who appreciate quality. Boggi Milano offers
brands, as well as furniture (on the top floor),
Chiesa
di
bugnoartgallery.it. San Marco, 1996/d (Campo San
Chiesa di Santa Maria
San Giorgiogarments
Maggiore aimed at a contemporary, modern and
della Visitazione
cosmetics and luxury perfumery (ground floor).
Fantin). T. 041 5231305. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San
cosmopolitan man who is not prepared to sacrifice
Open daily 10am-8.30pm. www.coinexcelsior.com.
Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E4
EN
E
OL
C IM
DE
RA
AM
LL
NIC
N
O
LL
NZ O
SA
RI EL
E
San Nicolò
dei Mendicoli
CA
FO
LO RE
CALLE CASE NUOVE
RI
IO
DE L’OG
N
C. SA
MATTA
DI CA’
RA
O
C.
SC
TT
RI
ZERE
CAMPIELLO LONGHI
Ca'Macana
CALL E
L' AR
ARTA
A M
SANT
E
ZO
EL
CA
LL
ED
CA
EC
LL
A’
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MU
E LA
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BO
TA
HE
TA
DE
TA
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AMEN
CERE
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CA
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A
I
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IE
ND
DAM
FOND
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EN S
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Rio N
CH
TA FA
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CALLE
RA
AC
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LL
CALLE DEL MAGAZEN
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CA
AMAI
DEI
CA
E
IO
B
TA
VA
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BA
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LA
TT
L'OL
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UO
Unique in Venice
I
C.
LA
HE
RIC
BB
E FA
EL
I
EN
'AND
AL
DE
R
H
C. LAV
ADOR
SANT
EL
NT
A
O
C
LL
TERÀ
OD
San Nicola
da Tolentino
OLI
PIAZZALE ROMA
RIO
MP
CALLE
CA
TRONCHETTO
Giardino
Papadopoli
CA
E
RT
A
UN
I
A
People Mover Venezia
S
CROCE
RE
CO
VE
UO
TIN
ND
EN
LEN
'A
E
RT
S
CA
I TO
NT
CO
DE
Sant'Andrea
SA
E
N.
RÀ
OC
DOP
ENTA PAPA
SHOPPING S A N T A
TE
FONDAM
RIO
CR
FO
F
LA
O.
CA
A
Ponte
della Costituzione
ER
IA
Melori & Rosenberg Gallery
Opened in 1996, it was the first Gallery to exhibit
contemporary art in the Campo del Ghetto Nuovo.
A unique Italian representative for Luigi Rocca’s
artworks, the Gallery also showcases the artworks
of other well-known Italian and international artists.
Open daily 9.30am-1.30pm/2.30pm-7.30pm. www.
melori-rosenberg.com. Cannaregio, 2919 (Campo
del Ghetto Novo). T: 041 2750039. Vaporetto line 4.1
or 5.1 (Fondamente
stop). Map D4
ISOLA LA Nove
GRAZIA
CLOTHING
MEN & WOMEN
Al Duca d'Aosta
Originally established in Venice in 1902, Al Duca
d’Aosta now boasts stores in six cities across the
Triveneto region: Venice, Padua, Verona, Mestre,
Treviso and Udine. The historical four-storey Venice
An exclusive collection
The Merchant of Venice exemplifies the historic role played by the city of Venice,
worldwide, in the art of perfume-making. It carries a selection of different product lines
inspired by the tradition of the Venetian Republic; sublime craftsmanship andS.trade
Servolo
with the Far East. At its Flagship Store in Campo San Fantin you can discover the new,
exclusive ‘La Fenice’ collection, a tribute to the Gran Teatro La Fenice, one of the
world’s most legendary opera houses. Conveying the perfect harmony between music
and olfactory pleasures, this collection has been designed to offer customers a unique,
sensorial experience. The two fragrances for him and her are bottled in exquisite
flacons interpreted in chromatic shades of light blue and gold, the hallmark colours of
the theatre. www.themerchantofvenice.com
Flagship Store San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041 2960559.
Spezieria all’Ercole d’Oro Cannaregio, 2233 (Strada Nova, Santa Fosca). T: 041 720600.
Concept Store Murano Fondamenta dei Vetrai, 114. Murano. T: 041 5274297.
w w w. w heretravel er. com  27
Japa
Pavili
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
Artistic glass in Murano
Pomellato
cafés and even an annual summer music festival. Tax
refund for Non-EU citizens. Open daily 10am-10pm.
www.mcarthurglen.com. Via Marco Polo, 1 (Noventa
di Piave, 30 minutes from Venice). T: 0421 5741. Off
Map
Palmanova Outlet Village
Just one hour from Venice, Palmanova Outlet
Village offers 90 stores with the trendiest brands
discounted by up to 70% and open all year
around: Adidas-Reebok, Aldo Bruè, Baldinini,
Alberta Ferretti-Moschino, Calvin Klein, Fedon,
Iceberg, Ixos-Malloni, Nike, Piquadro, Pollini and
many others. Tax refund for Non-EU citizens. In
addition to shopping, Palmanova Outlet Village
makes you discover a land full of history and taste:
the picturesque hills of the Collio region, the
landscapes of Friuli’s Dolomites and the Alps, close
to the Karst plateau with the historical sites of the
Great War and the star-shaped city of Palmanova,
a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Open daily 10am8pm. www.palmanovaoutlet.it. Take the A4 highway
Venezia-Trieste and exit at Palmanova. Infoline:
T: 0432 837810. Off Map
Glassmaking had already become an
integral part of life in the Venetian lagoon
in the 7th century B.C. Furthermore, after
the year 1000 A.D. its production had
become so important that it was protected
by specific laws: the furnaces used to
create the molten glass were a constant fire
hazard in the narrow streets of Venice. As
a consequence, all the glass workshops
were moved to Murano where they are still
located today.
It was here that eyeglasses were invented
in the 13th century and here that, in 1369,
mirrors began to be produced. It was also
here that, in 1450, Angelo Barovier invented
crystal. Glass was a rare commodity
throughout the Renaissance: it was only
in 1827 that production on an industrial
level began. At that point, blown glass or
glass produced by lampworking became
a highly prized material used for artistic
purposes, achieving its height of splendor
during the Art Nouveau period. Artists
including Lalique, Dammouse and Tiffany
Cannaregio, 5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or
2 (Rialto stop). Map F3
T Fondaco dei Tedeschi
The recently renovated 16th century building
that extends over 7000 sqm is a luxury shopping,
food and cultural destination. Surrounding a
central courtyard, the store offers the best in
leading Italian and international fashion brands,
accessories, jewellery and watches, wines and
spirits, beauty and fragrances, food and a rich
selection of local gifts. Don’t miss the specially
curated cultural program on the 4th floor and
the breathtaking view from the roof terrace. In
partnership with Premier Tax Free, the store
will also offer an instant detax at the cash desk
when the payment is made by credit card, the
first of this kind in Europe. Open daily, 9.30am7.30pm (October-March) and 9.30am-9.30pm
28  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
sought out the glassblowers of Murano to
produce their famous works.
As a result of this experience, during the
mid-20th century, real masters of the art
began to emerge in Murano including
Signoretto, Ballarin, Zanetti and Vidal.
Their works are highly coveted objects,
true collectors’ items which are often
displayed at museums.
Murano has numerous glass factories,
several of which boast an age-old history
(i.e. Barovier&Toso) or a list of particularly
prestigious collaborations (i.e. Venini).
Crafting authentic Murano glass is no
easy task and does not come cheap. Large
objects require hours of work, so don’t
expect to take your custom-made lamp
home on the same day. Furthermore,
each piece is unique meaning that small
imperfections are an integral part of the
value of the object. Finally, the island’s
glass factories are equipped to make safe
deliveries anywhere in the world… ask
your concierge!
JEWELRY & WATCHES
Audemars Piguet
A must-visit stopover for luxury watch lovers. A
purveyor of classic watches since 1875, Audemars
Piguet is the place to go for elegant timepieces,
made to the very highest standards. Open Mon-Sat
10.30am-6.30pm. www.audemarspiguet.com. Piazza
San Marco, 18. T: 041 5285519. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto
stop). Map F4
Boncompagni Venezia
This historic boutique in St. Mark’s Square stocks
some of Italy’s most coveted jewelry brands, offering
its clientele a unique selection of beautifully crafted
pieces. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7.30pm; Sun 11am-6pm.
www.boncompagnivenezia.com. Piazza San Marco,
130/131/132. T: 041 5224563. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto
stop). Map F4
Cartier In addition to its renowned collections of haute
joaillerie, Cartier is also famous for its priceless
timepieces, a perfect mix of design and technology,
enhanced by precious metals and diamonds. Open
Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.cartier.
it. San Marco, 1474/1475 (Calle San Moisè). T: 041
8842511. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso
stop). Map F5
Chopard
FASHION OUTLETS
Famed for its creativity, state-of-the-art technology
and outstanding savoir-faire, the Swiss Jewelry brand
opens doors to jet-set luxury and glamour, while its
traditional watches are made with all the aplomb of
a master craftsman. Open daily 10.15am-6.30pm.
www.chopard.it. Piazza San Marco, 51. T: 041 5231883.
Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Noventa di Piave Designer Outlet
Damiani
(April-September). www.TFondaco.com. Calle del
Fontego dei Tedeschi (Rialto Bridge).
T: 041 3142000. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
Map E3
With more than 130 stores, cafés and restaurants,
visitors can find their favourite labels with price
reductions of up to 70%, all year round, and further
discounts at the annual summer and winter sales.
From iconic fashion brands like Prada, Gucci, Armani,
Fendi, Jil Sander and Paul Smith to sporting labels,
like Nike and X-Bionic, and high-street favourites,
like Guess and Desigual. Easy to reach from Venice,
Treviso, Jesolo, Padua and the beaches in the
region, it offers endless entertainment, from the
children’s adventure play area to restaurants and
NEW OPENING A reference point in the
world of high-end jewelry, Damiani is renowned
for its unmistakable style and innovative technical
solutions, including its ‘a lunette d’illusione’
setting designed to highlight the brilliance of its
stones. www.damiani.com. San Marco, 1320 (Calle
Vallaresso). T: 041 2770661. Vaporetto line 2 (San
Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F4
Dodo
The range of luxurious yet cute gold jewelry created
Crafted in rose gold set with a diamond and
a white ceramic heart, DAMIANI’s ‘D.Icon’
necklace typifies the maison’s sophisticated,
glamorous design.
by Dodo, the brand founded by Pomellato in 1995, is
by now a classic either for gift or collection purposes
thanks to its iconic good luck charms, each of which
has its own special meaning. www.dodo.it. c/o Coin
Excelsior (www.coinexcelsior.com). Cannaregio,
5787. T: 041 5203581. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto
stop). Map F3
Gems of Venice
For more than thirty years, Gems of Venice has
sourced the most precious stones, which are then
processed at its workshop near the Rialto Bridge, in
the heart of Venice, to become authentic wearable
art. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-9.30pm; Sun 10.30am2pm/3.30pm-6.30pm. San Polo, 1044. T: 041 5225148.
Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
IWC Schaffausen
Swiss watchmaker IWC has opened an elegant space
in Venice’s famed and fabled St. Mark’s Square. The
brand’s new boutique, located in one of the most
beautiful cities in the world, is a must-visit for any
watch enthusiast. Fans of its luxury timepieces are
invited to discover the fascinating world of IWC’s six
watch families, its innovative craftsmanship and all
the allure of high-end watchmaking. Open Mon-Sat
10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.iwc.com.
Piazza San Marco, 43. T: 041 8842451. Vaporetto line 1
or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Jaeger-LeCoultre
A meeting place for collectors and haute
horlogerie enthusiasts, at this boutique customers
will have the pleasure of discovering the latest
creations and exquisite timepieces designed by
this master of Swiss watchmaking. Open daily
10am-7pm. www.jaeger-lecoultre.com. Piazza San
Marco, 65. T: 041 884241. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto
stop). Map F5
Nardi Venezia
A combination of a love of precious stones and a
passion for the art of goldsmithery make Nardi’s
jewelry rare accessories to be worn or collected, the
epitome of sheer Venetian elegance. Open daily
10am-6.30pm. www.nardi-venezia.com. Piazza San
Marco, 69. T: 041 5225733. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto
stop). Map F5
Omega
Omega is a pioneer in the field of watchmaking.
Quality and innovation are key to the vision of one
of Switzerland’s most famous haute horologists. At
its Venetian boutique, you can find all the excellence
of these precious creations thanks to its extensive
collection of luxurious timepieces for men and
women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm.
www.omegawatches.com. San Marco, 1291. T: 041
5220820. Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco stop or San
Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Established in 1967 as an artisanal workshop, over
the years, its contemporary jewelry has captivated
wearers around the world. Pomellato creates highly
sought-after collections featuring a range of stones
boasting myriad colours and ultra-feminine designs.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 11am-7pm. www.
pomellato.com. San Marco, 2031 (Calle Larga XXII
Marzo). T: 041 5231909. Vaporetto line 2 (San MarcoVallaresso stop). Map F4
Salvadori
ROLEX RETAILER Salvadori was founded in
Venice in 1857. A member of the World Federation
of Diamond Bourses, Salvadori purchases its
diamonds from Antwerp and Tel Aviv, accompanied
by the highest diamond quality certificates. Open
Mon-Sat 10am-7pm; Sun 10.30am-6.30pm. www.
salvadori-venezia.eu. Diamond Atelier Venice: Piazza
San Marco, 67. T: 041 5230609. Salvadori Boutique
Rolex: Piazza San Marco, 44. T: 041 2602313. Salvadori
Boutique Panerai: Piazza San Marco, 47. T: 041
5200899. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso
stop). Map F5
Tag Heuer
Since 1860 Tag Heuer has been setting milestones
in Swiss watchmaking. It is the first watchmaker
to master luxury sports chronographs with an
unsurpassed precision. Tag Heuer’s constant
quest for innovation, excellence, performance and
prestige is reflected in its partnerships with the
Red Bull Racing F1 team. Open daily 10am-7pm.
www.tagheuer.com. San Marco, 1298 (Salizada
San Moisè). T: 041 5211401. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto
stop). Map F4
Tiffany & Co.
NEW OPENING Founded in 1837 in New
York, Tiffany & Co. is a world-renowned jeweller.
Since its introduction in 1886, the Tiffany ® Setting
has been known as the ultimate symbol of love,
paving the way for Tiffany’s legendary collection
of engagement rings. Bold, modern collections,
including the elegant, minimalist creations
designed by Elsa Peretti and the brightly-coloured
lines by Paloma Picasso, have made Tiffany a
destination for those seeking spectacular beauty,
style and the very best in design. Open daily 10am7.30pm. www.tiffany.it. San Marco, 1336 (Calle
Vallaresso). T: 041 5201037. Vaporetto line 2 (San
Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
La Bottega dei Mascareri
The workshop of the Boldrin brothers specializes in
the crafting of a variety of papier mache Venetian
masks, including jesters, elves and characters from
the ‘Commedia dell’Arte’ for a trip back into 18th
century Venice. The Mascareri have also worked for
the theatre, the cinemas and fashion shows, and are
considered among several of the most established
manufacturers of collector’s items. PASSION TIP
They were the first mask makers to embellish their
masks with decorations by Tiepolo. Open daily 9am6pm. www.mascarer.com. San Polo, 80 (Vaporetto
line 1 or 2, Rialto stop). T: 041 5223857 and San Polo,
2720 T: 041 5242887 (Vaporetto line 1 or 2, San Tomà
stop). Map E3
The Merchant of Venice
The prestigious stand-alone boutique of this brand
which represents the ‘Art of Perfumery in Venice’ is
housed in the former, mid-17th century apothecary of
San Fantin, located just steps from La Fenice Opera
House. Its neo-Gothic décor and ornamentation in
walnut, wood and terracotta, reflect the typical style
of ancient Venetian ‘palazzi’. The Merchant of Venice
is not only a line of products but a wider project
which includes a concept store in Murano, the
Palazzo Mocenigo Museum in Santa Croce, the Spice
shop in Ercole d’Oro (Cannaregio) and the World
of Venice space at the Marco Polo Airport. www.
themerchantofvenice.com. Open Tues-Sun 10.30am7.30pm. San Marco, 1895 (Campo San Fantin). T: 041
2960559. Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso
stop). Map F4
Venini
An artistic space, where you rediscover all the
elegance and sophistication of the exquisite
creations handcrafted by Master glassmakers
from Murano. A prime location for passionate
collectors, or those whose want to further their
knowledge about an entirely Italian art, Venetian
glass creations, meticulously handcrafted by
Master craftsmen. Open Mon-Sat 10am-7pm. www.
venini.com. San Marco, 314. T: 041 5224045. Other
location: Fondamenta Vetrai, 47 (Murano). T: 041
2737204. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto or San Marco
stops). Map F4
PASSION SHOPPING
Ca’ Macana
One of the oldest and finest mask making
workshops in Venice for Carnival, theatre,
film production and parties. Ca’ Macana
crafts authentic handmade masks in the
same way that Venetian artisans did 800
years ago, never repeating a decoration
in order to ensure that each mask is unique.
Thanks to their expertise, they also hold
conferences and courses on the history of Venetian
masks and traditional mask-making techniques.
PASSION TIP Their masks were featured in
important film productions including “Eyes
Wide Shut” by Stanley Kubrick and in operas
including those staged by the Vienna Opera
House. Open daily 10am-7.30pm. www.camacana.
com. Maskmaking and Courses: Dorsoduro, 3215.
Showrooms: Dorsoduro, 3172 and Dorsoduro 1169.
T: 041 2776142. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).
Map D5
VENINI’s hand-blown ‘Veronese’ glass vase
was blown for the first time in 1921 thanks to
Vittorio Zecchin, one of the main exponents and
innovators of Muranese glass art. Limited edition.
w w w. w heretravel er. com  29
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
Top antiques
Libreria Antiquaria Linea d’Acqua
Antique books and priceless prints focusing primarily
on preservation and authentic bookbinding
methods. PASSION TIP Specializes in 18th century
illustrated books, maps and views of Venice and
engravings by 18th century Venetian masters. Open
Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm-7pm; Sat 10.30am12.30pm. www.lineadacqua.it. San Marco 3717/d
(Calle della Mandola). T: 041 5224030. Vaporetto line 1
or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Studio Arga
The owner of Studio Arga, Gabriella Tallon’s expertise
in Oriental and Asian antiques makes this gallery a
must-visit reference point. Open by appointment.
www.argainc.com. San Marco 3659/a (Calle della
Verona corner of Rio Terà dei Assassini). T: 041 2411124.
Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto or San Samuele stop) and line
2 (San Marco stop). Map E4
Tessitura Bevilacqua
Artisanal weavers specializing in the production
of exquisite, decorative fabrics for furnishings and
Tessitura Bevilacqua
Venice is infused with so many
historical and artistic artefacts
that the city’s passion for antiques
is literally embedded within its
soul. There are so many large and
small workshops that it is almost
impossible to list them all. Where®
has selected a pick, renowned for
their quality and tradition.
Alessandro Zoppi
A true son of Venice, Alessandro Zoppi, one of the
most passionate and authoritative collectors and
art merchants in the city, spent his youth travelling
extensively abroad. In 1961, he moved to London
where he stayed for a few years. The owner, for
more than a decade, of the highly prestigious
Antichità Cesana, today, Zoppi’s house-museum
features a number of pieces from his impressive
collections, with a particular emphasis on artistic
glass objet d’art dating from the 16th through
20th centuries. PASSION TIP Visiting his
house-museum, or even talking to Alessandro
Zoppi, is like taking a marvellous journey back
in time. By appointment only. T: 335 6657005.
email: [email protected].
Antichi Splendori
Devoted to the ongoing search for objet d’art
and antiques, the mission of this highly qualified
antique dealer is to keep the interest in authentic
masterpieces alive. Its San Lio-based store in
Venice offers a careful selection of the city’s artistic
treasures, with a particular focus on antique jewelry,
Murano glass from the 11th to 20th centuries and
paintings of Venetian landscapes. Open Mon-Sat
9.30am-7pm. Castello, 5545 (Salizada S. Lio) T: 041
5239265. [email protected]. Vaporetto line
1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
30  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
Antichità San Samuele
An antiques dealer since the Seventies, Silvana
Vianello is renowned for her research and expertise
in the field. PASSION TIP San Samuele specializes
in religious antiques, with a particular focus on
sculptures dating from the 13th through 18th
centuries. Open: Mon-Sat 10am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm. San Marco, 3130 (Calle delle Botteghe). T: 041
5204900. Vaporetto line 2 (San Samuele stop). Map
E4
Ca’ Nova
Boasting over 40 years in the industry, Ca'
Nova which means ‘new house’, has decorated
several of Venice’s most elegant homes with its
upholstery fabrics. Wallpaper, curtains, tablecloths
and hand-woven sheets. Open Mon-Fri 9am12.30pm/3pm-7.30pm; Sat 9am-12.30pm. www.
canovatessutitendaggi.com. San Marco, 4264/a
(Campo San Luca). T: 041 5203834. Vaporetto line 1 or
2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Venezia, Le Stampe Turio
curtains. PASSION TIP A unique place! Since 1875,
the company has practiced the art of weaving on
original looms that once belonged to the Venetian
School of Silk. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-4pm (Sat-Sun
by appointment). www.luigi-bevilacqua.com. Santa
Croce 1320. T: 041 721566. Vaporetto line 1 (Riva de
Biasio stop). Map D3
Venetia Studium
The Lando family’s mission is to create and sell
“modern object that speak an ancient language”.
Venetia Studium not only stocks a wide range of
Fortuny® lamps but also splendid silk pillows, fabrics,
handbags and other accessories inspired
by the ambiences loved by Marià Fortuny. Open
daily 10am-7pm. www.venetiastudium.com San
Marco, 2425. T: 041 5236953. Vaporetto
line 1 or 2 (Rialto or Santa Maria del Giglio stop).
Map E5
Venezia, Le Stampe Turio
At this small, refined showroom, Camilla Nicolai
continues a family tradition established at the
end of the 19th century by her great grandfather
Osvaldo Böhm. Stocks a wide selection of frames,
antiques and handcrafted Venetian objet d’art.
PASSION TIP Specializes in antique decorative
prints. Open 10.30am-1pm/3.30pm-7pm.
www.venezialestampe.it. San Marco, 4606
(Calle Teatro Goldoni). T: 041 5234318.
Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Antichità San Samuele
Ca' Nova
Alessandro Zoppi
Franco Dell'Orto
Venetia Studium
Franco Dell’Orto
This well-known antique carpet gallery stocks a
fabulous range of large Caucasian and Persian rugs,
European tapestries and large-scale decorative
pieces. Open Mon-Fri 9.30am-12.30pm/3.30pm7.30pm; Sat 9.30am-12.30pm. www.francodellorto.
com. San Marco, 2052/b (Calle delle Veste, near Teatro
La Fenice). T: 041 5224736. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa
Maria del Giglio or San Marco stop). Map E5
Le Zoie
Michele Dal Bon’s atelier is infused with personality.
PASSION TIP This eclectic shop showcase rare
antique watches and jewelry but also specializes in
collections that are unlikely to be found elsewhere,
including objects inspired by ancient ‘theriaca’, a
medical concoction also known as Venice treacle. Open
Tues-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm/3.30pm-7.30pm. www.lezoie.
com. San Polo, 1566 (Calle dei Boteri) T: 041 2758694.
Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
Antichi Splendori
w w w. w heretravel er. com  31
IN SEARCH OF EXCELLENCE
BY STEFANO TRAINE
Ottica
Mantovani
dal 1871
Isola di San Michele
Cannaregio
Santa Croce
Nicolao Atelier
San Polo
Gems of Venice
Dorsoduro
San Marco
Castello
Vino e... Vini
Testolini
Jade Martine
Ottica Mantovani
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore
Giudecca
AN ANCIENT
VOCATION
Venice’s natural ability
for trade dates way
back in time. Bearing
in mind that each day,
whatever the season,
the city’s treasures
attract thousands of
visitors from all over
the world, it’s no
surprise that every
corner of Venice is
packed with shops and
‘botteghe’ selling all
kinds of merchandise.
So, we suggest
that you try to be a
little selective when
shopping. Make sure
that you choose a shop
that really expresses
the soul of the city.
Here are a few tips for
quality shopping.
OTTICA MANTOVANI
www.xxxxxx.org
Viale xxxxx, 6
T: 02 xxxxx
More info: www.wheremilan.com
Sun and prescription glasses, the most
technologically advanced lenses and the
most comfortable, fashionable frames.
Managed by the Carlon family since the 40’s.
www.otticamantovani.it
San Marco, 4860 (Mercerie del Capitello).
T: 041 5223427.
NICOLAO ATELIER
An artisanal tailor’s shop that makes Venetianstyle period costumes for movies, plays,
commercials and Carnival parties.
www.nicolao.com
Cannaregio, 2590 (Fondamenta della
Misericordia). T: 041 5207051.
VINO E... VINI
GEMS OF VENICE
In the heart of Venice near the Rialto
Bridge, this is a unique boutique and
workshop where precious stones are
cut and transformed into genuine,
wearable works of art. For more
than thirty years, Gems of Venice
has sourced several of the world's
most precious stones including jade,
diamonds and gems… taking us back
to the fascinating voyages of Venetian
merchant Marco Polo.
www.gemsofvenice.it
San Polo, 1044 (Ruga RialtoRughetta Ravano)
T: 041 5225148
This must-visit wine ‘boutique’ is located just
steps from San Marco. It carries a prestigious
selection of Italian and foreign wines as well
as an extensive assortment of dessert wines
and exclusive grappas.
Castello, 3566 (Salizada del Pignater).
T: 041 5210184.
JADE MARTINE
The most luxurious lingerie in Venice can be
found at this small yet charming boutique
that Stephanie and Leila run with ‘Venetian’
warmth and French charm. Sophisticated
underwear and accessories, either for
personal use or ultra-feminine, high-quality
gifts. This boutique stocks a wide assortment
of beautiful items, and courteous assistants
are always on-hand to offer useful advice.
A reference point in St. Mark’s since 1995.
San Marco, 1645. T: 041 5212892.
More info: www.where-venice.com
32  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
w w w. w heretravel er. com  33
DINING
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
TASTING EXPERIENCE
Alla Madonna
Antico Martini
Excellent wine accompanied by traditional
‘cicchetti’ and Venetian fish specialties, Enoteca
Al Volto invites diners into its warm, welcoming
atmosphere. €. Open daily 11.30am-3pm and
6pm-10pm. San Marco, 4081 (Calle Cavalli). T:
041 5228945. Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Zaccari
stop). Map E4
Established in 1954 and set in one of Venice’s
most picturesque corners, the Rado family
has run Alla Madonna since its inception. Its
welcoming ambience, characterized by an ancient
vineyard, provides the perfect backdrop for the
typical regional cuisine served here. €€€. www.
ristoranteallamadonna.com. San Polo, 594 (Calle
della Madonna). T: 041 5223824. Vaporetto
line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E4
Located next to the La Fenice theatre, with its
elegant dining rooms, welcoming atmosphere and
attentive staff, the Antico Martini serves some of
the best seafood in town. €€€. www.anticomartini.
com. Campo Teatro Fenice 2007. T: 041 5224121.
Vaporetto line 1 (Santa Maria del Giglio stop) or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop).Map E5
L’Aciugheta
Alle Testiere
Enoteca Al Volto
Its fame and fortune stems from a soft, 7 cm long
“paninello” (literally, “tiny sandwich”), stuffed with
butter and two “aciughete” (skinless anchovies in
oil). Other must-trys include its meatballs, croutons,
stuffed chili peppers and freshly baked ‘pizzette’
topped with anchovies. €. Castello, 4357 (Campo
SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5224292. Vaporetto
line 1, or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Set in the heart of Venice between the Rialto
Bridge and St. Mark’s Square, this tiny restaurant
is the connoisseurs’ choice for fresh fish and
seafood, with a menu that changes frequently
and a discerning selection of wines. €€€. www.
osterialletestiere.it. Castello, 5801 (Calle del
Mondo Novo). T: 041 5227220. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(Rialto stop). Map F4
Osteria alla Rivetta
Antica Carbonera
One of Venice best-known, most traditional
“cicheteria” (but also a trattoria for lunch and
dinner), it is a go-to address for wine tastings.
Open daily 11am-10.30pm. €. Castello, 4625. T: 041
5287302. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria). Map
F4
TRADITIONAL
ITALIAN CUISINE
© SVIDA_WHEREITALIA
A Beccafico Arte
An oasis in the city
If you’re in search of a unique view or a place to relax after sightseeing or shopping, look no further. Head
to the Castello district, located just steps from the Biennale’s Giardini venue. It’s impossible not to notice a
beautiful Liberty-style steel and glass structure: the Serra dei Giardini. By Stefania Vida
T
he Serra dei Giardini offers a range
of options, from a bucolic lunch
surrounded by greenery to a trendy
aperitivo. At the Caffè La Serra, you can
sample snacks, aperitivi, tisanes, smoothies
and other organic products. This picturesque
location doubles as a meeting space and a
venue hosting cultural events, and deserves
to be mentioned on account of its historical
background. An interesting fact: the address of
the ‘Serra’ is Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi, the only
‘road’ among Venice’s myriad ‘calli’!
Originally known as ‘Serra Margherita’,
Castello’s Serra dei Giardini was built in 1894
with the aim of creating an ‘iron and glass
34  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
tepidarium’ to house the palm trees and other
decorative plants used for the International
Art Exhibition.
Later on, for more than one hundred years,
the ‘Serra’ represented a workplace for
generations of gardeners whose secrets were
handed down from father to son. In Winter,
the premises of the Serra were used to house
those plants that were particularly sensitive to
the cold weather, but also for the cultivation
of many others, needed for the creation of the
municipal flowerbeds of the Lido and Venice,
and to decorate the rooms of aristocratic
Venetian dwellings during meetings,
receptions and events.
La Serra dei Giardini is now an interesting
meeting place and pleasant area where
visitors can relax and read books and
magazines about gardening and nature.
The ‘Serra’ includes a permanent display of
rare plant species, an educational space for
schools, adults and families, and a cultural
centre for gardening enthusiasts. The venue
also sells plants and gardening equipment.
>> Serra dei Giardini
Viale Giuseppe Garibaldi, 1254
(Castello district)
www.serradeigiardini.org
It offers several dining spaces and a small inner
courtyard. Its typical Venetian ambience, is low-key,
contemporary and elegant, blending to perfection
with its Sicilian-style cuisine. €€€. Closed on
Tuesdays. www.abeccaficoarte.com. Cannaregio,
2289/C. T: 041 2759220. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro
stop). Map E5
A la Vecia Cavana
Homemade pasta, fresh fish and unusual decor:
its interiors resemble those of the Miramar yacht
that belonged to Franz Joseph II and Princess
Sissi. A favourite haunt of artists, its charm and
Venetian flavour have remained unaltered since it
first opened in 1894. Standouts include its raw fish
dishes and stewed cod fish with polenta. €€€. www.
anticacarbonera.it. San Marco (Calle Bembo). T: 041
5225479. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Antiche Carampane
A typical trattoria, in business for over a century, it
has a friendly, convivial atmosphere. This is a go-to
address for foodies and connoisseurs of fine dining.
Its excellent menu, enhanced by the freshest,
top quality ingredients is accompanied by an
astute selection of wines. Closed on Sundays and
Mondays. €€€. www.antichecarampane.com. San
Polo, 1911. T: 041 5240165. Vaporetto line 1 (RialtoMercato stop). Map E3
Antico Pignolo
The hand of owner Eligio Paties, is apparent in its
beautifully laid tables and impeccable service. The
traditional Venetian menu is accompanied by a wellstocked cellar boasting more than 900 labels from
all over the world. €€€. www.anticopignolo.com. San
Marco, 451 (Calle degli Specchieri). T: 041 5228123.
Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Conca d’Oro
Located just steps from St. Mark’s Square, the
Conca d’Oro was established by Sicilian brothers
Giuseppe and Giovanni Costa, the founders
of the first pizzeria in Northern Italy. Since that
time, this Venetian institution has been turning
out some of the best pizza in town. €€€. www.
concadorovenice.com. San Marco, 4338 (Campo
SS. Filippo e Giacomo). T: 041 5229293. Vaporetto
line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Da Fiore
A renowned Venetian restaurant that offers topnotch cuisine in a sophisticated, elegant setting.
Thirty-five years ago, Mara and Maurizio Martin
transformed an old osteria into one of the city’s
most famous restaurants. Impeccable service and
superlative Venetian dishes composed of carefully
selected seasonal ingredients have made Da Fiore
a must-visit destination. Closed on Mondays. €€€.
www.dafiore.net. San Polo, 2202. T: 041 721308.
Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto-Mercato stop). Map E3
Set within the picturesque environment of an old
restructured cavàna (a typical sloped building used
to house boats), this restaurant serves delicious
traditional Venetian and Italian cuisine. €€€. www.
marsillifamiglia.it. Cannaregio, 4624 (Rio Terà SS.
Apostoli). T: 041 5287106. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’
d’Oro stop). Map F3
Acqua Pazza
Set against the magical backdrop of Campo
Sant’Angelo, it offers a great ‘al fresco’ dining
experience under the stars. This small corner of
Amalfi in Venice serves an array of tantalizing
dishes. €€€. www.veniceacquapazza.com. San
Marco, 3808. T: 041 2770688. Vaporetto line 1 or 2
(Rialto stop).Map E4
Al Colombo
A meeting point since 1986 for an international
clientele, its menu maintains all the hallmark
features of traditional Venetian cuisine. In summer,
guests can dine outside under the romantic light
of Venice’s street lamps. €€€. www.alcolombo.com.
San Marco, 4619. T: 041 5222627. Vaporetto line 1 or
2 (Rialto stop). Map E3
Al Mercà
Highly sought-after, typical Venetian cuisine.
Boasting an informal atmosphere, it is the perfect
spot to relax with a soothing cocktail after a long
day of sightseeing. €€€. Lido - Via E. Dandolo, 17.
T: 041 2431663. Vaporetto 1, 2, 5.1, 5.2
(Lido stop). Map E3
LA CARAVELLA
Set in an evocative and romantic ambience, this haven of culinary excellence boasts a
fabulous selection of Venetian cuisine updated with a contemporary, gourmet twist. See page 37
w w w. w heretravel er. com  35
DINING
DINING
“Five star” restaurants
Tradition, innovation and creativity: Where® highlights some culinary
destinations to whet your appetite in several top hotels in Venice.
By Stefania Vida
La Cupola
Acquerello
c/o San Clemente Palace Kempinski Venice.
Isola di San Clemente, 1.
T: 041 4750111.
www.kempinski.com.
The gourmet cuisine of Acquerello restaurant
enhances the flavours of Italian and Venetian
tradition with creative and surprising
combinations of Executive Chef Vincenzo Di
Tuoro. PASSION TIP Its view is as breathtaking
as its food: situated next to the XII-century church
of San Clemente, the restaurant, boasting a large
terrace, is located next to one of the island’s
private landing stages and offers an incomparable
view over the lagoon and St. Mark’s Square.
Open for dinner: 6.30 pm-10.30 pm. €€€. Hotel’s
complimentary boat from piazza San Marco. Off
Map
Aman Venice Restaurant
c/o Hotel Aman Venice.
Palazzo Papadopoli. San Polo, 1364 (Calle Tiepolo).
T: 041 2707333.
www.aman.com.
The exclusive restaurant at the Hotel Aman
Venice offers a delightfully unique menu, thanks
to several specialties created by starred Milanese
chef Davide Oldani, who infuses his culinary
offerings with all the vibrancy of his ‘pop cuisine’.
PASSION TIP Standouts, for those who haven’t
yet tasted them, include his timeless ‘cipolla
caramellata’ (‘caramelized onions’) and ‘Zafferano
e riso’ (Saffron and rice’). €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San
Silvestro stop). Map E4
Antinoo’s
c/o Centurion Palace Venezia.
Dorsoduro, 173. T: 041 34281.
www.sinahotels.com.
Fronting the Grand Canal, Antinoo’s Lounge &
36  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
Restaurant is the ideal place for a romantic dinner,
boasting a decidedly designer-style décor and a soft,
evocative colour scheme. In addition to the à la carte
menu you can also choose from a selection of typical
gourmet Venetian dishes, the perfect way to soak up
the flavours and atmospheres of the lagoon city. €€€.
Vaporetto line 1 (Salute stop). Map E5
Aromi
c/o Hilton Molino Stucky.
Giudecca, 810.
T: 041 2723311.
www.molinostuckyhilton.it.
Here you can taste authentic Mediterranean cuisine,
offering a choice of pasta, meat and seafood dishes,
created using only the freshest ingredients based
on traditional recipes. Recognized by well-known
international gastronomic association “Chaine des
Rotisseurs”, Aromi is the ideal spot to celebrate a
special occasion. Open on a seasonal basis, the
Aromi restaurant offers guests a summer terrace with
a fabulous view over Venice and the Giudecca Canal.
€€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Palanca stop). Map C6
Canova
c/o Baglioni Hotel Luna.
San Marco, 1243.
T: 041 5289840.
www.baglionihotels.com.
Winner of the Fogher d’Oro and Gambero Rosso
awards, the Canova boasts an intimate, elegant
atmosphere. Chef Daniele Zennaro offers menus
and tastings featuring the best of traditional
Venetian cuisine. All dishes are made using only the
freshest, high-quality ingredients, rounded off by a
wine list offering a wide selection of national and
international labels. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm,
dinner 7.30pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (San
Marco-Vallaresso stop) or 2 (San Marco-Giardinetti
stop). Map F5
Club del Doge
c/o The Gritti Palace (www.thegrittipalace.com).
Campo Santa Maria del Giglio.
T: 041 794611.
www.clubdeldoge.com.
The restaurant welcomes guests for a romantic
dinner or lunch overlooking the Grand Canal, where
a welcoming ambience and authentic upscale
cuisine make each culinary experience a truly special
one. From April to October (weather permitting),
guests can dine on its stunning panoramic terrace.
Dining daytime (informal) 12pm-6pm. Dinner daily
(formal) 7pm- 10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Santa
Maria del Giglio stop). Map E5
De Pisis
c/o Hotel Bauer Palazzo.
San Marco, 1413/d.
T: 041 5207022.
www.bauervenezia.com.
For a romantic canal side dinner, set against the
backdrop of the historic Basilica di Santa Maria della
Salute. Those in search of a more intimate experience
can opt to dine in its elegant dining room, furnished
with classic period pieces, reminiscent of the ancient
pomp and splendour of the Serenissima. €€€.
Vaporetto line 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Do Leoni
c/o Hotel Londra Palace.
Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni).
T: 041 5200533.
www.londrapalace.com.
The Do Leoni restaurant, one of the temples of
Venetian cuisine, pays homage to the symbols of
Britain and of Venice. Chef Loris Indri combines
the traditions of classic Venetian fare with more
creative dishes, to titillate the palates of even the
most discerning diners. The chef’s culinary art is
further enhanced by its two atmospheric dining
spaces: an indoor dining room whose decor includes
artistic crystal and original paintings and its summer
Veranda on the Riva degli Schiavoni. €€€. Vaporetto
line 1 or 2 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
Il Giardino Segreto
c/o Boscolo Venezia.
Fondamenta Madonna dell’Orto, 3500
(Calle Larga Piave).
T: 041 2208110.
www.venezia.boscolohotels.com.
Venice meeting point for lovers of fine cuisine.
In an elegant and intimate atmosphere, you can
enjoy international specialties and delicacies of the
Italian cuisine, created by highly skilled chefs and
accompanied by a wide selection of wines and
champagnes. You can also taste tantalizing aperitivi.
In the springtime and summer the blooming garden
offers you a unique view for your lunch or for your
very romantic dinner. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.2 or 5.2
(Orto stop). Map E1
L’Alcova
c/o Ca’ Sagredo Hotel.
Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99.
T: 041 2413111.
www.casagredohotel.com.
Boasting a magnificent panoramic terrace over
the Grand Canal, L’Alcova is ‘the’ temple of
traditional Venetian cuisine for real connoisseurs.
PASSION TIP Its dining room faces directly over
the Canal, in front of the historic Rialto Market, from
which the restaurant sources the ingredients for its
menus, accompanied by an astute selection of wines
from various regions of Italy. Open: lunch 12pm2.30pm, dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’
d’Oro stop). Map E3
La Caravella
c/o Hotel Saturnia
Calle Larga XXII Marzo, 2399.
T: 041 5208901.
www.restaurantlacaravella.com
Opened in 1963, the La Caravella restaurant
Terrazza Danieli
Do Leoni
completes the services offered by the Hotel Saturnia
with a touch of culinary excellence thanks
to its fabulous Venetian cuisine updated with a
contemporary, gourmet twist. Its evocative, romantic
ambience conjures up the colours and furnishings
of an ancient Venetian vessel. PASSION TIP In
summer, guests can dine ‘al fresco’ in its picturesque,
internal Venetian courtyard. Open: lunch 12pm-3pm,
dinner 7pm-11pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San
Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
La Cupola
c/o Hotel Carlton on the Grand Canal
Santa Croce, 578.
T: 041 2752200.
www.carltongrandcanal.com.
A jewel in style both the venue and the atmosphere.
The menus are inspired by the traditions of Venetian,
Italian and international cuisine with genuine
ingredients but with an innovative and original
touch. An ideal place for your celebrations or for a
simple romantic evening in Venice. Vaporetto line 1
(Riva de Biasio stop). Map C3
La Cusina
c/o The Westin Europa & Regina
(www.starwoodhotels.com).
San Marco 2159. T: 041 2400001.
www.lacusina.it.
For a regenerating lunch break between visiting
one sight or another or for a romantic dinner, La
Cusina is the ideal place to enjoy a combination of
taste and relaxation. Choose a table overlooking
the Grand Canal to enjoy a panoramic view of
the city’s historic architecture, while savouring
the restaurant’s seasonal dishes which enhance
the rich local flavours of Venice and the islands
of the lagoon. Open: lunch 12pm-2.30pm, dinner
7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San
Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
Le Maschere
c/o Starhotels Splendid Venice.
San Marco Mercerie, 760. T: 041 5200755.
www.starhotels.com.
Loved and patronized by Venetian locals, the Le
Maschere restaurant is set against the backdrop
of a luminous ‘Campiello’, a typical Venetian
courtyard. Here you can sample authentic
Venetian cuisine, featuring both meat and
fish-based dishes. A truly gourmet experience,
guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes
Le Maschere one of the most unique and original
restaurants in Venice. Open: lunch 12pm-2pm,
dinner 7pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 2 (Rialto
stop). Map F4
Oro
c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani.
Giudecca, 10.
T: 041 240801.
www.belmond.com.
Experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this
enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro
reflects the romantic spirit of Venice: take your
seat beneath Murano glass chandeliers and the
golden ceiling, from which the restaurant takes
its name, and try the specialties inspired by Italian
tradition. Open: lunch 12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner
7.30pm-10pm. €€€. Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop).
Map F6
Terrazza Danieli
c/o Hotel Danieli (www.danielihotelvenice.com).
Riva degli Schiavoni, 4196.
T: 041 5226480.
www.terrazzadanieli.com.
A trip to discover traditional flavours. Executive
Chef Dario Parascandolo will treat you to an
exclusive gourmet experience, with a menu
featuring exquisite, locally sourced, seasonal
ingredients. PASSION TIP Don’t miss the
breathtaking view over the lagoon. Open: lunch
12pm-3pm, dinner 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Vaporetto
line 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
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DINING
DINING
Michelin-starred restaurants
Oro
c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani
Giudecca, 10
T: 041 240801
www.belmond.com
A jewel in the crown of Belmond Hotel Cipriani,
experience Venice’s top taste sensation at this
enchanting Michelin-starred restaurant. Oro reflects
the romantic spirit of Venice: take your seat beneath
Murano glass chandeliers and the golden ceiling,
from which the restaurant draws its name, and try
the specialities inspired by Italian tradition. Map F6
Osteria da Fiore
San Polo, 2202
T: 041 721308
www.dafiore.net
An Osteria only by name because this is actually an
elegant, starred restaurant. Its cuisine ranges from
the most authentic traditional flavours interpreted
in a modern-day key (meaning that offerings tend
to be lighter) to more unusual dishes invented
by the chef, intended to be as close to nature
as possible thanks to a great selection of highly
sought-after seasonal ingredients. Ask for a wine
recommendation from its excellent wine list which
also features several international labels. Map
E3
Quadri
Piazza San Marco, 121
T: 041 5222105
www.alajmo.it
A real institution of Venetian taste, starting from
its decor. A triumph of stucco, Murano glass
and precious fabrics housed in one of the most
photographed ‘palazzi’ in the city. Its menu features
intriguing, creative dishes that are beautifully
presented... without forgetting its spectacular view
over piazza San Marco. Map F4
Venissa
Fondamenta S. Caterina, 3 (Mazzorbo)
T: 041 5272281
www.venissa.it
On the one hand its vegetable gardens and
vineyards, and, on the other, its cuisine featuring an
intoxicating meld of locally sourced ingredients. Its
bucolic surroundings serve as the ideal backdrop
to its authentic, typically Venetian cuisine lovingly
prepared by its four chefs who only use fresh,
seasonal ingredients. Off Map
Osteria da Fiore
Quadri
Are you in search of a real Venetian tasting experience? Where® brings you
a round-up of Michelin-starred restaurants for true connoisseurs of taste!
By Stefania Vida
Dopolavoro
c/o JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa
Isola delle Rose, Laguna di San Marco
T: 041 8521300
www.jwvenice.com
Aptly named ‘Dopolavoro’, which means after
work. The renowned name of Giancarlo Perbellini
is behind this new restaurant housed
in a building dating from 1936 on its own private
island - the Isola delle Rose, right out in the
Venetian lagoon. After a day of business
meetings or exploring Venice, enjoy delicious
gourmet recipes with an individual flavour
and skilful light touch - the true mark of a great
chef. Off Map
Il Ridotto
Campo SS. Filippo e Giacomo, 4509
T: 041 5208280
www.ilridotto.com
Located just steps from San Marco, Il Ridotto,
38  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
'reduced' in Italian, refers to the size of this
tiny, gracious restaurant. The innovative menu
employing traditional elements is revised daily,
with the offerings tending toward lighter, but
wonderfully tasty versions of classic dishes.
A particular characteristic? It only has
9 tables. Map F4
Met
Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149
T: 041 5240034
www.hotelmetropole.com
Located inside the Metropole hotel, the Met
Restaurant is a pioneer of a new concept targeted
at promoting the Italian region.
Its menu features recipes based on traditional
Italian gastronomy served in two versions: either
classical or upgraded with a creative twist, served
in unusual but never excessive combinations. Its
carefully prepared dishes are full of flavour and
presented in a bright, colourful way. Map G4
Il Ridotto
Met
Dopolavoro
Oro
Venissa
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DINING
DINING
Top coffee and pastry shops
Whether you’re in search of a cup of coffee, a snack or an aperitivo, Venice
offers an incredible variety of bars and pastry shops, where you can stop after
a long day’s sightseeing. Where® offers you a pick of the best places to take
a relaxing break, from the most modern venues to more historic locations
boasting a retro atmosphere for a real trip back in time By Stefania Vida
www.lavena.it. Piazza San Marco, 133/134. T: 041
5224070. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
Caffè Florian
Caffè Florian - One of Venice’s most famous cafés
with its glittering neo-Baroque décor and attractive
19th century wall panels, Caffè Florian is located
in the heart of St. Mark’s Square. The oldest café in
Italy, Florian is steeped in history. Opened on 29
December 1720 by Floriano Francesconi, under
the name of ‘Alla Venezia Trionfante’, it was simply
re-christened Florian by its regulars, who included
celebrities such as Casanova, Goldoni, Canaletto
and Guardi. www.caffeflorian.com. Piazza San
Marco, 57. T: 041 5205641. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San
Marco stop).
Caffè Lavena - Since 1750, Caffè Lavena, situated in
a corner at the foot of the Clock Tower in front of the
Basilica, has been one of the most renowned coffee
shops in Venice. Known by the Venetians of those
days as the ‘Caffè dei Foresti’ (The Foreigners’ cafè), it
was mainly frequented by an international clientele.
Dal Mas
Located just a few minutes from the railway
station, this pastry shop offers a triumph of
traditional sweet treats for breakfast (in addition
to croissants, try their ‘zaleti’, ‘pan dei Dogi’ and
‘sbreghettine’). Those with a sweet tooth will be
delighted to know that Dal Mas is also a chocolate
shop where you can find single servings of
mousse, mini Sacher torte, ‘cannoli’ and brightlycoloured macarons. www.cioccolateriadalmas.
com. Cannaregio, 149/a (Rio Terà Lista de Spagna), a
few metres from the St. Lucia Station. T: 041 715101.
Gran Caffè Quadri - Nestling in St. Mark’s Square,
with its ornate stucco mouldings, 18th-century
murals, huge mirrors and polished wooden
furniture, Quadri is every inch the historical café.
People, including habitués like Stendhal, Wagner,
Proust and Woody Allen, have been drinking at this
historic venue since 1638. www.alajmo.it. Piazza
San Marco, 121. T: 041 5222105. Vaporetto line 1 or
2 (Rialto stop).
Harry’s Bar - Founded in the 1930s, this legendary
bar is renowned for its Bellini cocktails and for being
the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of almost
every famous name to visit Venice. Today, it is still
a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice,
a perfect opportunity to step back in time and
savour its slightly retro and incredibly fascinating
atmosphere. An ideal venue at any time of day, either
for lunch or dinner, but also for a truly trademark
aperitivo! www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco,
Da Mario alla Fava
Gran Canal
Lying in the heart of Venice, near to the Church
of Santa Maria alla Fava, from which it takes its
name, this small restaurant offers a calm, relaxing
atmosphere far removed from the crowds of
tourists that flock to the area each year. Opened
in 1960, Mario Bonavita wanted to rediscover the
true Venetian style of cooking which he does with
panache. €€€. www.ristorantemarioallafava.it. Calle
Galiazzo, 5265 - Calle dei Stagneri, 5242. T: 041
5285147. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
Here you can taste the typical specialties of Venetian
tradition, featuring the purest expression of taste and
harmony. The restaurant’s main focus is on seafood
and vegetables. Don’t miss a dinner on its evocative
terrace: the restaurant faces directly onto the Grand
Canal offering diners an excellent opportunity
to combine the pleasures of the palate with a
stunning view over Venice’s lagoon. Open: lunch
12.30pm-2.30pm, dinner 7.30pm-11.30pm €€€. www.
hotelmonaco.it. c/o Hotel Monaco&Gran Canal. San
Marco, 1332. T: 041 5200211. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San
Marco stop). Map F5
Giorgione
A typical Venetian restaurant offering its clientele
an unusual combination of Venetian specialties
and live music for a relaxing break, features a mix
of great food and entertainment. €€€. Castello,
1533 (Via Garibaldi). www.ristorantegiorgione.it.
T: 041 5228727. Vaporetto line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale
stop). Map H5
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Harry’s Bar
Founded in the 1930s, this legendary bar is renowned
for its Bellini cocktails (originally invented here) and
for being the favourite haunt, since it first opened, of
almost every famous name to visit Venice. Today, It is
still a must-visit stopover for anyone visiting Venice, a
1323 (Calle Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto line 1
or 2 (Vallaresso stop).
Harry’s Dolci - Harry's Dolci, a bar and restaurant,
offers a peaceful view of the Canal with outdoor
tables facing the Giudecca Canal. The people at the
famed Harry's Dolci have established their latest
enclave on this rarely visited island, far from the
madding crowds of Piazza San Marco. From the
quayside windows of this chic place, you can watch
seagoing vessels, from yachts to lagoon barges.
cipriani.com. Fondamenta S. Biagio, 773 (Giudecca).
T: 041 5224844. Vaporetto linea 4.1 (Palanca stop).
Kosher
in Venice
If you are already familiar with Jewish
dietary laws, or want to try a new
‘kosher’ gastronomic experience,
here are some great addresses that
will not disappoint! By Stefania Vida
Rizzardini - Since 1742, the traditional sweet treats
sold at this pastry shop have tempted the palates
of Venetian locals and visitors alike, thanks to the
high quality of its products, its atmosphere and
eye-catching window displays. Must-try’s include
its biscuits and, at Carnival, its utterly delectable
‘fritole’ , small fried doughnuts. San Polo, 1415. T: 041
5223835. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto Mercato or San
Silvestro stop).
perfect opportunity to step back in time and savour its
slightly retro and incredibly fascinating atmosphere.
www.harrysbarvenezia.com. San Marco, 1323 (Calle
Vallaresso). T: 041 5285777. Vaporetto 1 (Rialto stop) or 2
(San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map F5
Il Nuovo Galeon
Located on via Garibaldi, near the Giardini della
Biennale and just behind the Arsenal, this restaurant
is mainly frequented by Venetians. A typical, familyrun restaurant with an outdoor terrace (summer), its
attractive interior is characterized by typical nautical
décor, including the hull of a ‘bragozzo’, a typical
fishing boat built by Crea, the famous Venetian
rowing champion. €€€. www.ilnuovogaleon.com.
Castello, 1308, T: 041 5204656. Vaporetto 5.1 or 5.2
(Giardini stop). Map H5
La Piscina
Take a seat at its welcoming indoor dining room, or
on the magnificent panoramic terrace overlooking
La Porta d’Acqua
Set just steps from the Rialto Bridge, the restaurant
is housed in a 15th century building and decorated
with original frescoes dating back to 1700. Its cuisine
conjures up the aroma of authentic Neapolitan
cuisine, thanks to ingredients sourced exclusively
from Campani. €€€. www.laportadacqua.it. San
Polo, 1022/b (Rio Terà San Silvestro). T: 041 2412124.
Vaporetto 1 (San Silvestro stop). Map E4
La Zucca
While La Zucca isn’t only a vegetarian restaurant,
it’s a great place for anyone who likes vegetables.
Zucca’s chefs turn common garden-variety
ingredients likes carrots and eggplant into works of
culinary art. €€€. Closed on Sundays. www.lazucca.
it. Santa Croce, 1762. T: 041 5241570. Vaporetto line
1 (San Stae stop). Map D3
Pasticceria Italo Didovich - Should you find
yourself in the vicinity of Campo Santa Marina (just
a little off the beaten tourist track), make a beeline
for this excellent pastry shop, which has stood here
for the past 40 years. In addition to ‘frolle’ and rice
and almond pastries, it also offers several tantalizing
delicacies Castello. Campo Santa Marina. T: 041
5230017. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (Rialto stop).
Pasticceria Rosa Salva - This institution has three
separate shops in Venice. The first is in San MarcoCalle Fiubera: its historic headquarters, permeated
by the aromas of its nearby pastry kitchen. The next
is in San Marco-Mercerie: aperitivi and quick snacks
that can be enjoyed in between browsing the
shops lining le Mercerie, the shopping street that
connects the Rialto to St. Mark’s Square. The last is
in Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo. www.rosasalva.it.
San Marco (Calle Fiubera), T: 041 5210544. San Marco
(Mercerie), T: 041 5227934. Castello (Campo San
Giovanni e Paolo), T: 041 5227949. Vaporetto line 1 or
2 (Rialto stop).
the Giudecca Canal. At La Piscina you can savour
traditional Venetian and Mediterranean dishes
paired with wines selected from amongst the best
Italian labels. Vegetarian meals are also served.
€€€. www.lacalcina.com. c/o Hotel La Calcina.
Dorsoduro, 780 (Zattere). T: 041 5206466. Vaporetto
line 2 or 5.1 (Zattere stop). Map E6
Lineadombra
Perched on the last bridge of the most beautiful
promenade in Venice, le Zattere, this is the perfect
spot for a romantic dinner where you can enjoy all
the typical flavours of the Venetian lagoon. €€€.
www.ristorantelineadombra.com. Dorsoduro, 19.
T: 041 2411881. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Zattere stop) or 1
(Salute stop). Map E5
KOSHER RESTAURANT
GHIMEL GARDEN
The restaurant offers kosher specialties
and typical fish-based dishes. The menu
is accompanied by a great selection of
strictly kosher wines. Halav. Lemehadrin.
Open daily from 9.30am to 11pm. Serves
Shabbat dinners on Friday evenings and
at lunch on Saturdays strictly subject
to reservation. ghimelgarden.com.
Cannaregio, 2873 (Campo del Ghetto
Nuovo). T: 041 8226131.
Locanda Cipriani
For those who want to be close to Venice,
yet feel worlds away, the Locanda Cipriani
is a superb, romantic hideaway. Featuring a
simple yet evocative atmosphere, it is popular
among knowledgeable gourmets as a fantastic
restaurant. A farmhouse from the exterior, it
has been renovated with great charm, exuding
an understated elegance with beautiful
country antiques and fresh flowers. €€€. www.
locandacipriani.com. Piazza Santa Fosca 29
(Torcello island). T: 041 730150. Vaporetto line 12
from Fondamente Nove direction Burano, then
take the 9 line). Off Map
Muro
Comprising two separate areas. Muro San Stae
serves wonderful pizza and traditional Venetian
and Mediterranean dishes, prepared with fresh
ingredients, while Muro Frari embodies Venice’s
love for fish enhanced with an Eastern twist. Open
daily 12pm-3pm and 7pm-10.30pm. €€€. Muro San
Stae: Santa Croce 2048 (Campiello dello Spezier).
T: 041 5241628. San Stae boat stop. Muro Frari: San
Polo 2604 b/c. T: 041 5245310. Vaporetto line 1 (San
Tomà stop). Map D4
Taverna al Remer
Located near to the Rialto Bridge, this romantic
‘taverna’ is distinguished by its open-brick
decor, which lends it an intimate, informal touch.
Although the menu features simple, traditional
dishes, it often surprises diners with unusual
pairings. Closed on Wednesdays. €€€. www.
alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701. T. 041 5228789.
Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop).
Map F3
Wildner
Opened by the Fullin family in 1960, it is patronized
by locals and tourists alike. Its tranquil, relaxed
atmosphere is further enhanced by a spectacular
view over the Basin of St. Mark’s. Its menu is mainly
fish-based and serves classic Venetian specialties
including ‘Baccalà Mantecato’ and ‘Sarde in Saor’.
Closed on Tuesdays. €€€. c/o Pensione Wildner.
Castello, 4161. T: 041 5227463. Vaporetto line 4.1
or 5.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map G4
KOSHER HOUSE
GIARDINO DEI MELOGRANI
Located just a 10-minute walk from
the Santa Lucia Railway Station, this
is the only kosher residence in Venice.
Nestling in the heart of Venice’s Ghetto,
it is equipped with all the necessary
accoutrements for the strict observance
of Kasheruth and Halacha.
www.pardesrimonim.net.
Cannaregio, 2873. T: 041 8226131.
CAFFETTERIA DEL MUSEO
EBRAICO DI VENEZIA
Indulge in flavoursome break at the
cafè of Venice’s famous Jewish Museum.
Situated in the Campo del Ghetto
Nuovo, the venue is set between two
of Venice’s oldest synagogues. Halav.
Cannaregio, 2902 (Campo del Ghetto
Nuovo). T: 340 1046858.
LE MASCHERE
A truly gourmet experience, guaranteed by its partnership with Eataly, makes this restaurant one
of the most original venues in Venice. See page 37
w w w. w heretravel er. com  41
IN SEARCH OF AN AUTHENTIC RESTAURANT
BY STEFANO TRAINE
Burano
►
Al Gatto Nero
Trattoria da Romano
Cannaregio
Santa Croce
Isola di San Michele
Taverna al Remer
San Polo
Dorsoduro
San Marco
Castello
Al Giardinetto da Severino
TAVERNA AL REMER
TRULY VENETIAN
Looking for a really
typical restaurant
amidst the hundreds
of venues you’ll come
across while strolling
through Venice?
Here are a few tips
to help you find the
right place wherever
you happen to be, in
the ‘calli’, at the Lido
or while enjoying
an excursion to the
islands…
Enjoy an authentic dining experience
at this typically Venetian eatery, boasting
a spectacular view over the Grand Canal.
www.alremer.it. Cannaregio, 5701
(Campiello Remer). T: 041 5228789.
TRATTORIA
DA ROMANO
BURANO VENEZIA
TRATTORIA
DA ROMANO
(BURANO)
Trattoria Do Forni
Antico Pignolo
Renowns for its simple yet delectable risottos
ans its typical seafood dishes, this trattoria
has been run by the Barbaro family for
generations. Standouts includes mixed grill
cooked over wood.
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore
Giudecca
www.daromano.it
Burano - Via Galuppi, 221. T: 041 730030.
TRATTORIA DO FORNI
Thanks to the quality of his dishes and a
genuine sense of Venetian hospitality, its
owner, Eligio Paties has turned his restaurant
into a sought-after culinary destination.
www.doforni.it
San Marco, 468 (Calle dei Specchieri).
T: 041 5232148.
AL GIARDINETTO DA SEVERINO
RISTORANTE
Al Giardinetto
da Severino
Its menu offers the best of
traditional Venetian cuisine:
baccalà, Venetian-style liver,
‘granceola’, polenta with shrimp,
a mixed fish fry with artichokes
and seafood risotto.
www.algiardinetto.it
Castello, 4928 (Salizada Zorzi). T: 041 5285332.
AL GATTO NERO (BURANO)
Freshly caught fish and pasta
are served at this family-run
trattoria in the heart of Burano.
The ‘Gatto Nero’ has been the
kingdom of Ruggero Bovo since
1965. Must-try dishes include the
chef’s famous ‘risotto di Go’ or
his ‘spaghetti alla granceola’.
www.gattonero.com
Burano - Via Giudecca, 88. T: 041 730120.
ANTICO PIGNOLO
www.xxxxxx.org
Viale xxxxx, 6
T: 02 xxxxx
More info: www.wheremilan.com
Boasting an elegant ambience and
impeccable service, this ‘iconic Venetian
tavern’ is owned and run by Eligio Paties.
Highlights include tantalizing meat and fish
specialties and a well-stocked wine cellar.
www.anticopignolo.com. San Marco, 451
(Calle dei Specchieri). T: 041 5228123.
More info: www.where-venice.com
42  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
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SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS &
ATTRACTIONS
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ATTRACTIONS &
MONUMENTS
Basilica del Redentore
PHOTO © EGIUDICI_WHEREITALIA
Based on a project by the famous architect
Andrea Palladio, the Basilica was built in 1577
on the island of Giudecca. It contains works
by Tintoretto, Veronese and other important
Venetian artists. It was built to celebrate the
deliverance from the Black Death, which killed one
third of the population. To commemorate the end
of the plague, a solemn festival is still held at the
church on the third Sunday of July.
www.chorusvenezia.org. Campo Redentore
(Giudecca). T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 41
and 2 (Redentore stop). Map E6
A panoramic view over the city, a long history devoted to art and a present infused with a passion for
photography: the Casa dei Tre Oci is one of Venice’s best-kept secrets. By Elena Peverata
T
here is a place in Venice, off the beaten
track, that allows you to appreciate
the romantic side of the city from a
unique perspective. Located on the Island of
Giudecca, the Casa dei Tre Oci is a magnificent
example of early 20th century Neo-Gothic
Venetian architecture, an exhibition
space dedicated to photography and an
extraordinary vantage point overlooking
the basin of San Marco. Situated in an area
of unusual artistic and historic interest, the
building is strategically positioned in front of
the Punta della Dogana, St. Mark’s Square and
the Ducal Palace, and is only steps from the
Church of Il Redentore.
Designed in 1913 by the artist Mario De Maria
as a house and studio, the Casa dei Tre Oci (the
house with three eyes), was, until the end of
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the 1980s, a place of meeting and discussion, a
studio, and a space for artists and intellectuals
visiting Venice from all over the world.
In 2012, following in-depth restoration,
the building became a public art gallery,
dedicated to the study and narration of themes
and languages related to contemporary art, in
particular, photography and the visual arts. It
also houses the photography collection owned
by the Fondazione di Venezia and a thematic
library. Finally, two rooms are dedicated to
the De Maria family. Original furnishings and
a selection of paintings and drawings offer
visitors a glimpse into the family’s life during
artistic gatherings.
Over the past few years, the space has hosted
important solo and collective exhibitions. In
2016, it featured the works of Helmut Newton,
Ferdinando Scianna and René Burri.
Now and until 2 April, the complex is hosting
"Arctic. The Final Frontier": 120 black and
white images taken by three masters of
photo journalism – Italy’s Paolo Solari Bozzi,
Iceland’s Ragnar Axelsson and Denmark’s
Carsten Egevang - who, based on their different
perspectives, explore the immense Arctic
region and the life of the Inuit living there,
highlighting the threat of global warming and
the powerful beauty of nature.
>> ARCTIC. THE FINAL FRONTIER
15 January – 2 April
Open daily 10am-6pm (closed on Tuesday).
Full price ticket €12. www.treoci.org.
Fondamenta delle Zitelle, 43. Isola della
Giudecca, Venezia. T: 041 2412332. Map F6
Chiesa della Madonna dell’Orto
This is one of the largest churches in Venice,
and, according to popular belief, is named after
a statue of the Virgin Mary which supposedly
had miraculous powers. It contains a significant
number of artworks, mostly by Tintoretto and
Bellini, but also by Titian and Palma the Younger.
The complex also houses the smaller church
of San Marziale, dating back to before the year
1000. This church can only be visited by booking.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-5pm; Sun 12pm-5pm. www.
madonnadellorto.org. Cannaregio, 3512. T: 041
719933. Vaporetto lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, A (Orto
stop). Map E2
Basilica di San Marco
Chiesa and Scuola Grande di San Rocco
This is the most important Catholic church in the
city, and one of the most important monuments in
Italy. The original church dates back to before the
year 1000, while its famous polychrome façade,
embellished with mosaics and bas-reliefs, is a
13th century addition. The famous winged lion,
a symbol of the city and of the ancient ‘Venetian
Republic’ is depicted on its pediment. Inside, a
triumphant array of domes and transepts, mosaics
and gold, marble and numerous other treasures.
You might have to queue for a time to get inside,
but your wait will be well worthwhile. Although
admission is free, you will have to pay to see
several specific sights. In order not to miss your
visit, be sure to inform yourself about the opening
hours, as they are often subject to change. Open
Mon-Sat 9.30am-4pm; Sun (and Public Holidays)
2pm-4pm. www.basilicasanmarco.it. San Marco,
328. T: 041 2708311. Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San
Marco stop). Map F4
A Renaissance complex consisting of a church and
adjoining palace, it was built as a sign of devotion
to San Rocco who was called upon to protect the
plague-stricken population of Venice during the
15th century. The interiors are filled with
numerous treasures, including an impressive
number of works by Tintoretto as well those by
Tiepolo and Giorgione. Opening hours subject
to change www.scuolagrandesanrocco.org. San
Polo, 3052 (Campo San Rocco). T: 041 5234864.
Vaporetto line 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Campanile di San Marco (Bell Tower)
A gallery with a view
boat cruises visit www.canalgrande.it, or
ask your concierge.
This 98.6 metre bell tower is affectionately known
to the Venetians as ‘el paron de casa’ (the master
of the house) because it dominates the city,
observing everything that lies below it. Resting
lightly on the exquisite Loggetta del Sansovino,
it has a particularly recognizable shape and a
rich history. The original medieval bell tower was
modified several times, and rebuilt entirely when it
unexpectedly collapsed in 1902. It is worth going
up to the tower, to enjoy a breathtaking view
over the city. Although admission is not free, it is
often included in joint tickets. Opening times are
subject to change. T: 041 5225205. Vaporetto lines
1,2 (San Marco stop). Map F4
Canal Grande (Grand Canal)
Although it is known as ‘the most beautiful
street in the world’, the Canal Grande is the
main waterway of Venice and much more.
Lined on both sides by an uninterrupted series
of palaces, churches, hotels, and other public
buildings, it offers a journey back into history,
evoking the pomp and splendor of the ancient
Serenissima. For centuries, the Canal has
witnessed lavish parties and workshop events,
religious processions, capital executions,
historical regattas and epidemics. Those visiting
Venice should dedicate a few hours to a cruise
on the Canal, not only for the pleasure of this
experience, but because it offers several of the
best panoramic views of Venetian palaces. It
is is almost impossible to list all of them, but
for more information you can visit the www.
canalgrandevenezia.it website. For excursions and
Ghetto di Venezia
Although documentation chronicles the presence
of a Jewish community in Venice from before
the year 1000, it was only during the 6th century,
due to political unrest in Europe and a significant
increase in non-Christian immigrants that, for the
first time, the Venetian Senate, issued a decree
stating that the Jewish population should move
to a specific part of the city, where they could
be better ‘controlled’. Thus Jews were forced to
move to this, then, remote northwestern corner
of Venice, to an abandoned site of a 14thcentury foundry (‘ghetto’ is old Venetian dialect
for "foundry," a word that would soon be used
throughout Europe and the world to depict an
area where isolated minority groups lived. The
Venetian Ghetto nevertheless became a thriving,
vibrant district. In 1797, when Napoleon rolled into
town, the ghetto was disbanded as an institution,
and Jews were free to move elsewhere. Today
it is still the center of Venice's ever-diminishing
community of Jewish families. Vaporetto lines 4.1,
4.2, 5.1 (Ponte Guglie stop). Map D2
Palazzo Ca’ Vendramin Calergi
(Casinò di Venezia)
Overlooking the Grand Canal, this building
houses the oldest casino in the world. An ageold destination, for aristocratic travelers from
both East and West, Venice was the first city in
the world to open a gaming house way back in
1683. Today its old-world ambience continues
to play host to several of the world’s most
classical games. The casino is open to everyone
aged 18 and over and proper attire is required.
www.casinovenezia.it. Cannaregio, 2040 (Calle
Colombina). Vaporetto lines 1, 2 (San Marcuola
stop). Map E3
Piazza San Marco (St. Mark’s Square)
Known throughout the world, this square is the
heart of Venice and its most symbolic landmark.
It consists of a central, trapezoid-shaped unit
integrated with other areas. Measuring 170
metres in length, it faces directly onto the water
and is surrounded by several magnificent stately
buildings. Its incalculable scenic beauty makes
it one of the most widely-photographed places
in the world. The best thing to do here is to look
around and exult, but don’t forget that the square
has a number of specific landmark sites, whose
interiors can also be visited: the Basilica of San
Marco (see listing), the Bell Tower (see listing),
Palazzo Ducale (see Museums listings), the Clock
Tower (see listing) and some 18th century cafés,
the Florian and the Quadri, to mention the bestknown... Vaporetto lines, 1, 2 (San Marco stop).
Map F4
Ponte dei Sospiri (Bridge of Sighs)
The Bridge of Sighs is a Baroque bridge that, by
crossing the Rio di Palazzo, once connected the
Palazzo Ducale to the prisons, and today it is one
of Venice’s most romantic sights. The ‘sighs’ from
which its name derives are not those of lovers, but
those of condemned prisoners, emitted as they
were led down to the cells. It can be accessed on
a visit to the Palazzo Ducale. Open daily 8.30am7pm. www.palazzoducale.visitmuve.it. San Marco,
31024 (piazza San Marco). T:041 2715911. Vaporetto
lines 1,2, (San Marco stop). Map F4
Ponte di Rialto (Rialto Bridge)
This is the oldest and most beautiful of the four
bridges crossing the Grand Canal. Witness
to centuries of history, it is exciting to cross it
(shutterbugs permitting), but even more spectacular
when seen from the water, perhaps aboard a
gondola. Originally built during medieval times as
a pontoon bridge at the canal’s narrowest point
to facilitate access to the popular Rialto Market,
it is still a hub of commerce and is lined on both
sides by shops. Unfortunately, it is not accessible to
everyone; between upward and downward slopes,
it includes as many as 120 steps. San Polo, 30125
VENICE BIENNALE
For more than a century, the Venice
Biennale has been one of the most
prestigious cultural institutions in the
world. Renowned for its avant-garde
approach to research and the promotion
of new artistic trends, it organizes
important international exhibitions
related to art and architecture (it is held
bi-annually in odd-numbered years) at
its Giardini and Arsenale sites, and is
considered the world’s number one
platform for its International Exhibition
of Cinematographic Art (annual), its
Music and Theatre Festival and its more
recent Dance Festival. In addition to its
traditional appointments, it has added
new, permanent activities over time.
Costs, venues and opening hours vary
according to the activity underway.
Voucher Venezia Unica holders are
eligible for discounts. Main sites: Ca’
Giustinian, San Marco 1364/a; Arsenale,
Calle della Tana, 2169/S; Giardini della
Biennale, Castello (between Riva degli
Schiavoni and Sant’Elena).
www.labiennale.org
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(access from Ruga dei Oresi or from Salizada Pio X).
Vaporetto linea 1,2 (Rialto stop). Map F4
San Giorgio Maggiore
Boasting a monastery and an adjoining museum
(see Museum listings), the church of San Giorgio
Maggiore sits on the little island of San Giorgio
Maggiore across from St. Mark's square. One of the
masterpieces of Andrea Palladio, the church, and the
entire complex, which holds a number of marvelous
surprises including a maze, is worth visiting. This
small island, that is a part of the panorama that can
be enjoyed from St. Mark's square, is separated from
the Giudecca by the lagoon island of La Grazia. Isola
di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041 5227827. Vaporetto
line 2 (San Giorgio stop). Map G5
Santa Maria della Salute (Church
of the Virgin Mary of Good Health)
Generally referred to as “La Salute,” this crown jewel
of 17th-century baroque architecture proudly stands
at a commercially and aesthetically important point,
almost directly opposite the Piazza San Marco,
where the Grand Canal empties into the lagoon.
Designed by Longhena, whose work was influenced
by Palladio, it was constructed to honor the Virgin
Mary for delivering Venice from the plague of 1630.
On 21 November each year, a popular religious
celebration, marking the official end of the Black
Death, is held here. The church is also famous for
its organ concerts. Open daily 9am-12noon/3pm5.30pm. www.basilicasalutevenezia.it. Fondamenta
Salute, 30123. T: 041 2743911. Vaporetto line 1 (Salute
stop). Map E5
MUSEUMS &
ATTRACTIONS
Santa Maria Gloriosa dei Frari
Known by the Venetians simply as ‘i Frari’, this
landmark features 17 monumental altars and is the
largest church in the city. This medieval church
in Gothic-Venetian style, houses, in addition to
two paintings by Titian, the tombs and funerary
monuments of numerous famous people, including
Titian, Monteverdi and Canova. chorusvenezia.org.
Campo dei Frari. T: 041 2750462. Vaporetto line 1, 2,
N (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Santi Giovanni e Paolo
One of the city’s most important examples
of medieval architecture, Santi Giovanni e Paolo
is considered the Pantheon of Venice because
all the Venetian doges, starting from
the 13th century, are buried here, together
with numerous other notable personages.
www.basilicasantigiovanniepaolo.it.
Campo Santi Giovanni e Paolo (Please note:
this site might be marked in Venetian dialect
as ‘san ZaniPolo’ on the city’s maps).
T: 041 5235913. Vaporetto line 5.1 (Fondamente
Nove stop, Ospedale Civile stop). Map F3
Scala Contarini del Bovolo
Palazzo Contarini is an exquisite, late Gothic
building. However, what makes it such a popular
attraction today, was the addition, by its architects,
in 1499, of an amazing, external ‘bovolo’ (snail-shell)
stairwell enclosed in a cylinder perforated like lace.
The architectural beauty of the stairwell, combined
with the view that can be enjoyed on reaching the
top, is well worth a visit. Open Tues-Sun: 10am-
1.30pm/2pm-6pm. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.
com. c/o Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo. San Marco,
4299 (Campo Manin, Rio San Luca). T: 041 3096605.
Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marco Vallaresso stop).
Map E4
Scuola Grande dei Carmini
Housed in a 16th century palazzo, it is the seat of an
ancient brotherhood and all its original furnishing
and a number of priceless oil paintings have been
preserved intact. The drama builds when entering
the Sala del Capitolo, whose ceiling features nine
exceptional canvases painted by the brotherhood’s
most famous member, Giambattista Tiepolo. Open
daily 11am-5pm. www.scuolagrandecarmini.it.
Dorsoduro, 2616 (Campo dei Carmini, Campo Santa
Margherita). T: 041 5289420. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’
Rezzonico stop). Map C5
Teatro La Fenice
Twice destroyed by fire and twice restored to its
former splendour (the last time was between 1996
and 2003), for centuries it has been Venice's principal
stage for world-class opera, music, theater, and
ballet. However, its high point came in the 19th
century when it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas
by Rossini, Bellini, Donizetti and Verdi. Not only
strongly associated with Venice’s cultural heritage, it
is also a stunning feat of architecture. teatrolafenice.
it. Ticket office T: 041 2424. San Marco, 1965 (Campo
San Fantin). Vaporetto line 1 (San Marco-Vallaresso
stop). Map E4
The islands
Although the whole of Venice lies on an archipelago,
an ‘excursion to the islands’ generally means a
half-day cruise on a boat to visit the islands of
Murano, Torcello and Burano, three charming,
small islands, rich in history and tradition. Murano
is famous throughout the world for its hand-blown
glass (artisanal workshops still display glassmakers
at work). Torcello, birthplace of the lagoon, once a
thriving town with 8,000 inhabitants, is today a semirural island with only 17 permanent residents and
two medieval churches that speak poignantly of past
glories, and Burano, one of the most photographed
sights in the world, thanks to colourful houses
reflected in its canals. Burano is also famous for its
artisanal lace work and a particular kind of biscuit,
which also resembles lace. Find out more and buy
tickets for your trip to these magical destinations.
Visitors love these islands, and there may be a risk of
not finding a seat on the boat. See Map page 62.
MUSEUMS &
EXHIBITION SITES
Ca’ Pesaro-International Gallery
of Modern Art
The phenomenon of 'acqua alta'
Acqua alta (High Water) is a Venetian phenomenon that involves the entire city when either
the planetary tides – the Scirocco wind and wave motion in the Adriatic, or a combination
of all these elements – cause an increased flow of water into Venice’s lagoon. When this
happens, the city is flooded. While causing tourists serious inconvenience, the ‘acqua alta’ is
not at all like the experience described in the horror stories that do the rounds each winter.
For a city built on water, it’s a way of life and even a one-of-a-kind experience. If you happen
to be in Venice on an ‘acqua alta’ day (on average, it occurs once every three years) invest
in a pair of wellies, arm yourself with a camera and explore the city to your heart’s content.
Information and updates on www.comune.venezia.it/maree.
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Hosts important 19th and 20th century
collections of paintings and sculptures, including
masterpieces by Klimt and Chagall as well as
noteworthy oeuvres by the likes of Kandinsky,
Klee, Matisse and Moore. Other highlights include
a rich selection of works by Italian artists and an
important selection of graphics. Closed on Mon, 25
December and 1 January. Full price ticket €10. www.
capesaro.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 2076. Vaporetto
line 2 (San Stae stop). Map E3
Ca’ Rezzonico-Museum of Eighteenth
Century Venetian Art
The large staircase of this magnificent palazzo
leads to several elegant rooms housing paintings,
sculptures and 18th century furnishings (first
floor): the ‘Portego dei dipinti’ featuring canvases
by Canaletto, a room dedicated to Longhi and
the frescoes painted by Giandomenico Tiepolo
detached from the walls of Villa Zianigo (second
floor); the rooms of the Farmacia Ai do San Marchi
and the exquisite Pinacoteca Egidio Martini (third
floor). Alternately, the Browning Mezzanine houses
the works of the Mestrovich Collection, including
works by artists like Tintoretto and Bonifacio de'
Pitati. Closed on Tues, 25 December and 1 January.
Full price ticket €10. www.carezzonico.visitmuve.
it. Dorsoduro 3136 (Fondamenta Rezzonico). T:
041 2410100. Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ Rezzonico stop).
Map D5
| SIGHTSEEING
The “Scuole Grandi”
Casa Museo Andrich-Modern Art
Gallery and Historic Garden
The house of the two artists, Clementina and Lucio
Andrich, testifies to the artistic vibrancy of Venice
between the 1950s and the 1980s. Silks, tapestries,
glass, sculptures, paintings, engravings, mosaics
and furniture are displayed on a rotational basis
and can be admired during a guided tour. Set in an
11,000 square meter orchard-garden, inhabited by
herons and flamingoes from March to September,
Casa Andrich overlooks the beautiful lagoon
landscape of Torcello. Open daily. Guided tours in
Italian, English and French are conducted at 10am11am; 2.30pm-3.30pm; 4.30pm-5.30pm. Visits must
be booked online (www.veneziaunica.it). Ticket
pricing varies based on the type of visit chosen.
www.museoandrich.it. Torcello island, 4/L. T: 347
2391861. Vaporetto line 12. Off Map
Fondazione Bevilacqua La Masa
The Foundation, which has 4 spaces in Venice,
serves as a launch pad for projects devoted to
photography, design, graphics and applied arts.
In addition to awarding prizes and scholarships,
it also offers under 35 artists a chance annually,
to set up ateliers, free-of-charge, at its Palazzo
Carminati (San Stae) and SS. Cosma e Damiano
(Giudecca) spaces. Palazzetto Tito, the
headquarters of the Foundation’s archives and
offices, promotes the catalogues of collective and
personal exhibitions, while the space dedicated
to exhibitions is located in St. Mark’s Square,
under the arcades of Procuratie Nuove. www.
bevilacqualamasa.it. Palazzetto Tito, Dorsoduro,
2826. T: 041 5207797. La Galleria di Piazza San
Marco, San Marco, 71/c (Procuratie Nuove). T: 041
5237819. Palazzo Carminati, Santa Croce 1882/a.
Complesso di SS. Cosma e Damiano, Giudecca
620.Map F5
Fondazione Cini-San Giorgio Maggiore
Set against the magnificent backdrop of the Basin
of St Mark, the Foundation was established in 1951
by Count Vittorio Cini to restore the Island of San
Giorgio Maggiore and to create an international
centre of cultural activities. The Foundation is
housed in the monumental complex of the former
Benedictine Monastery of San Giorgio Maggiore,
a place of inestimable architectural and artistic
prestige, thanks to works by several of Italy’s
greatest 16th and 17th century masters. Enlarged
in the 16th century by Andrea Palladio, who also
designed its refectory, the church of San Giorgio
Maggiore and the Cloister of Cypresses, in addition
to numerous other treasures, the complex hosts
an impressive collection of paintings by Jacopo
Tintoretto, as well as several 16th and 17th century
works of arts. Guided tours in Italian, English and
French on Saturdays and Sundays. For information
and booking T: 041 2201215. Full price ticket €10.
Scuola di San Rocco
Among Venice’s countless art treasures,
buildings known as ‘Scuole’ or ‘Scuole
Grandi’ might be mentioned as
unmissable attractions. It goes without
saying that these are not schools in the
accepted sense of the word, but one
of the innumerable distinctive features
of this unique city. During the ancient
Republic of Venice, from the 13th century
onwards, the word ‘Scuola’ was, in fact,
used to describe a brotherhood, or rather
an association of lay members who met
to provide assistance to poor people,
widows, orphans, old and sick people.
The ‘Scuole’ were divided into
Devotional Schools (or Scuole Grandi)
which gathered for religious purposes
in the name of a patron saint, Schools
of Arts and Crafts and Schools of
Foreign Communities (Scuole Piccole or
Scuolette). Until the fall of the Republic,
they represented a real kind of welfare
system, initially destined for members
but later extended to the entire
population.
The ‘Scuole Grandi’ had countless means at
their disposal, a part of which they invested
to embellish their own headquarters with
paintings by well-known artists including
Tintoretto, Jacopo Palma il Giovane or
Giambattista Tiepolo. As time passed,
the most important Schools built palaces
for their residents designed by famous
architects, and adorned them with
paintings by the best artists of the era. After
the fall of the Republic of Venice in 1797, the
Schools were suppressed by a Napoleonic
edict (1807) and within the space of a short
time their assets ended up at antique markets
and collections throughout the world.
Several of the best preserved Schools
were reconstituted and transformed into
museums that can now be visited by the
public.
These include the Great Schools
of San Giovanni Evangelista (www.
scuolasangiovanni.it), the Scuola di San
Rocco (www.scuolagrandesanrocco.
it) and the Scuola dei Carmini (www.
scuolagrandecarmini.it). Others, including
the Scuole Grandi di San Teodoro (www.
scuolagrandesanteodoro.it), the Scuola di
San Marco (the seat of the city’s hospital),
www.scuolagrandesanmarco.it), and the
Scuola di Santa Maria Giustizia or San
Fantin, currently home to Venice’s Faculty
of Science, Literature and Arts (www.
ateneoveneto.org), were converted into
public exhibition spaces and institutions.
The Scuola Dalmata di San Giorgio degli
Schiavoni and the Scuola di San Nicolò dei
Greci (currently Venice’s Museum of Icons),
are ‘small’ schools whose artistic treasures
are well worth a visit.
Lastly, an interesting fact: the facade of the
Scuola Grande di Santa Maria della Carità,
suppressed in 1806, is now the entrance to
the magnificent Accademia Galleries.
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MUSEUMS &
ATTRACTIONS
Museo Archeologico Nazionale
St. Mark’s, the soul of Venice
Housed with the Correr Museum and the Marciana
Library in the rooms of the Procuratie Nuove
in St. Mark’s Square, the museum boasts an
extraordinary collection of Greek and Roman
sculptures as well as a noteworthy selection
of ancient coins, gems and cameos, bronze
artifacts and pottery. Other highlights include
Egyptian and Assyrian-Babylonian antiques and
priceless finds of late antiquity. Open daily. www.
polomuseale.venezia.beniculturali.it. Entrance
and ticket office: Correr Museum, San Marco 52
(piazzetta San Marco). T: 041 2967663. Vaporetto
line 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria stop), 2
(Giardinetti stop), 5.1 - 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop).
Map F5
Museo Correr
The Basilica of San Marco, with its bell tower
and square overlooking the water, is one of
Italy’s and the world’s most recognizable
(and photographed) landmarks. In addition
to being the city’s most important
church, the Basilica is a monument to the
history of Venice, a grand treasure chest
of Venetian art and lavish spoils garnered
from the eastern Mediterranean. Its dazzling
polychrome façade with its marbles and
mosaics, spires and domes, and Venice’s
famous winged lion, the symbol of the city
for centuries, is revealed in all of its glory.
The interior, featuring an abundance of
exquisitely gilded Byzantine mosaics, is
definitely worth a visit. A visit to its Museum
and treasury, located on the upper floor, is a
not-to-be-missed highlight.
PLEASE NOTE
The Basilica of San Marco is a Catholic
church that welcomes worshippers and
tourists alike. It is open daily for prayer and
to allow visitors to admire its extraordinary
artistic heritage. However, at certain times
or on certain days, it is entirely given over
to religious ceremonies and visits are
suspended. For more information visit
www.basilicasanmarco.it to check that
it is open for visits. On entering, visitors
are asked to respect the rules: appropriate
clothing must be worn, as this is a place of
worship. Taking photographs is forbidden
and visitors are asked to lower their voices
at all times. Please note that you will
probably have to wait for about 45 minutes
in order to gain access to the Basilica.
The museum is located in the old Royal Palace in
St. Mark’s Square and includes the Napoleonic
Wing and the Procuratie Nuove. Built to house
Teodoro Correr’s collection, it features several
exhibition spaces dedicated to the art and history
of Venice. These include the neo-classical rooms
housing sculptures by Antonio Canova, historic
collections describing the changing cityscape
of Venice and, finally, the pinacoteca, boasting
important masterpieces of Venetian art from its
origins to the 16th century. Open daily. www.
correr.visitmuve.it. San Marco 52 (piazza San
Marco). T: 041 2405211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso
stop or, San Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1
- 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Joint ticket for the Glass Museum + Lace Museum
€12. www.museovetro.visitmuve.it. Fondamenta
Giustinian, 8. Murano. T: 041 5274718. Vaporetto
line 4.1, 4.2 (Museo Murano stop). Off Map
Museo di San Marco
The itinerary that you’ll follow inside the museum,
will take you from the historic area above the
atrium-narthex of the Basilica and the former
Banqueting Hall of the Doges, through the three
extensive themes that are a part of the heritage of
St. Mark’s Basilica: Mosaics, Textiles, the Quadriga
and the Antico. Particularly noteworthy, amongst
its relics and artworks, are the famous gilded
bronze horses of St. Marks and the Basilica’s
ancient fragments of mosaics, preserved in
special containers known as ‘cassine’. The tour of
the museum takes visitors through various areas
of the Basilica, we therefore suggest wearing
attire that is respectful of the religious nature of
the Basilica. Open daily 9.45am-4.45pm. Closed
on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price
ticket €5. www.museosanmarco.it. San Marco
328 (Procuratoria di San Marco). T: 041 2708311.
Vaporetto linee 1 (Vallaresso stop or San Zaccaria
stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 o 4.1 (San Zaccaria
stop). Map F4
gallerieaccademia.it. Dorsoduro 1050 (Campo
della Carità). T: 041 5222247. Vaporetto lines 1, 2
(Accademia stop). Map D5
Gallerie dell'Accademia di Venezia
Galleria Giorgio Franchetti
alla Ca' d'Oro
VENETIAN MUSEUM HUB Following a
Napoleonic decree, the Gallerie dell'Accademia
were instituted as an educational adjunct to
the Academy of Fine Arts. They host the most
important collection of Venetian and Veneto
artworks dated between the 14th and 18th
centuries. Here you can admire masterpieces by
Giovanni Bellini, Giorgione, Carpaccio, Titian,
Tintoretto, Veronese and Tiepolo, and works by
several important landscape artists including
Canaletto, Bellotto and Guardi. The monumental
complex hosting these works occupies the
ancient church of Santa Maria della Carità, the
Scuola Grande della Carità and the Canonici
Lateranensi convent complex designed by Andrea
Palladio in 1561. Open Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun
8.15am-7.15pm. Full ticket price: €9. Ticket pricing
may vary during temporary exhibitions. www.
48  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
The Ca' d'Oro, an ancient 15th century Patrician
dwelling, hosts the art collections that were
donated to the State by Baron Giorgio Franchetti.
These include period furnishing, tapestries,
paintings, sculptures and bronzes. Its current
collection features a mixture of Renaissance
works from the Lombard, Venetian, Reggio Emilia
and Flemish schools, as well as masterpieces
like Andrea Mantegna’s renowned St. Sebastian.
An interesting collection of ceramic relics from
the Venetian lagoon are housed at Ca' Duodo,
the building lying adjacent to Ca’ d’Oro. Open
Mon 8.15am-2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm.
Full ticket price: €6. Ticket pricing may vary
during temporary exhibitions. www.cadoro.org.
Cannaregio, 3932 (Strada Nuova). T: 041 5200345.
Vaporetto line 1 (Ca’ d’Oro stop). Map E3
The museum is owned by the Hellenic Institute of
Byzantine and Post-Byzantine Studies of Venice
and is located on the first floor of the Confraternita
dei Greci (Scoletta di San Nicolò, designed by
Baldassare Longhena in the 17th century). It
houses approximately 80 Byzantine and postByzantine icons dating from the 14th through 18th
centuries, as well as illuminated codes, sacred
garments embroidered in gold and small artisanal
artifacts of considerable historic and artistic value.
Open daily from 9am-5pm. www.istitutoellenico.
org/museo. Castello 3412 (Campo dei Greci). T:
041 5226581. Vaporetto lines 1, 2, 4.1, 5.1, 14, 15, 19,
20 (San Zaccaria stop).Map G4
Museo d'Arte Orientale-Ca’ Pesaro
The museum, located on the top floor of the
Galleria Internazionale d’Arte Moderna, is
housed in an ancient building on the Grand Canal
designed by Baldassare Longhena for the Pesaro
family. Here, you will find one of the most important
collections in the world of Japanese art from the
Edo period: more than 30,000 pieces including
swords and daggers, Japanese armour, delicate
lacquer ware palanquin and priceless porcelain.
Other highlights include extensive sections
dedicated to Chinese and Indonesian art. Closed
on Mon, 25 December and 1 January. Full price
ticket (integrated with the International Gallery
of Modern Art) €10. www.arteorientale.org. Santa
Croce, 2076.T: 041 5241173. Vaporetto line 2 (San
Stae stop). Map E3
Museo di Storia Naturale
Housed in the Palazzo del Fondaco dei Turchi
on the Grand Canal, its original, contemporary
layout is divided into three sections each of which
is, in actual fact, a museum within a museum. Its
collection includes more than two million pieces:
zoological and paleontological collections,
ancient herbariums, plant and fish fossils, a
collection of minerals, a wunderkammer (cabinet
of curiosities) housing more than 2,000 examples
of different animal parts and a Venetian fish tank.
Closed on Mon, 25 December and 1 January.
Full price ticket €8. www.msn.visitmuve.it. Santa
Croce, 1730 (Fondaco dei Turchi). T: 041 2750206.
Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop). Map D3
Located in Burano, the museum is housed in a
small building, formerly home to Venice’s famous
Lace School. Boasting more than two-hundred
rare, priceless pieces, the exhibition chronicles
the evolution of the art of lace-making in Venice
from the 16th to 20th centuries. Closed on Mon, 25
December and 1 January. Full price ticket €5. Joint
ticket for the Glass Museum and the Lace Museum
€12. www.museomerletto.visitmuve.it. Piazza
Galuppi 187, Burano. T: 041 730034. Vaporetto line
4.1, 4.2, 5.2 (Fondamenta Nove stop), and then line
12 (Burano stop). Off Map
Museo Ebraico di Venezia
Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum)
Housed in the aristocratic palazzo Giustinian, on
the island of Murano, the collections exhibited at
the museum are arranged in chronological order:
in addition to the archaeological section featuring
Roman remains from the 1st and 2nd centuries A.D.,
you can also find an extensive range of historical
objet d’art made from Murano glass, including
important pieces produced between the 15th and
20th centuries. Open daily. Full price ticket €10.
PALAZZO CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO
This late Gothic building, formerly home to the Contarini family, eight of whose members
were Doges of the Republic of Venice, is renowned for its famous cylindrical tower and
spiral staircase, named ‘del Bovolo’, the Venetian word for snail: one of the city’s foremost
architectural gems. www.scalacontarinidelbovolo.com
Museo delle Icone
Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum)
www.cini.it. Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore. T: 041
2710280. Vaporetto line 2 (Isola di San Giorgio
stop). Map G6
| SIGHTSEEING
This cast of the statue of Paris (1807) by Antonio
Canova is part of an itinerary dedicated to the
renowned sculptor whose works are displayed
in the five new rooms of the Procuratie Nuove
of the CORRER MUSEUM.
JEWISH MUSEUM This a ‘dispersed museum’;
a highly unusual urban architectural museum
complex that includes the museum itself, the
Ghetto, synagogues and an ancient cemetery.
It contains a small but precious collection of
artifacts related to the long history of the Jews
in Venice. Thanks to guided tours (in Italian and
English), you can visit three of the area’s five
historic synagogues, located between the Ghetto
Vecchio (Old Ghetto) and the Ghetto Nuovo (New
Ghetto), and the Old Cemetery (16th-18th century)
in San Nicolò del Lido. Finally, to commemorate
the tragedy of the Second World War, there is a
bronze relief Holocaust Memorial in the Campo
del Ghetto Nuovo. Jewish Museum: open 10am7pm (from 1 June to 30 September); 10am-5.30pm
(from 1 October to 31 May). Guided tours of the
Museum + synagogues: hourly from 10.30am to
4.30pm (1 October-31 May) or until 5.30pm (1
June-30 September). Museum, synagogues and
cemetery closed on Saturdays and on Jewish
holidays, 25 December, 1 January, 1 May. Full
price ticket €4; Jewish Museum + guided tour
of the synagogues : full price ticket €10. www.
museoebraico.it. Cannaregio 2902\b. T: 041 71535.
Vaporetto lines 1-2 (San Marcuola-Ghetto stop),
lines 41-42-51-52 (Ponte delle Guglie-Ghetto stop).
Map D2
Museo Querini Stampalia
The Querini Stampalia house-museum is an
opulent patrician dwelling located on the ‘piano
nobile’ of a 16th century palazzo, and features
several unusual architectural elements designed
by Carlo Scarpa, Valeriano Pastor and Mario
Botta. Works displayed include paintings by
Giovanni Bellini, Jacopo Palma the Elder and the
Younger, Bernardo Strozzi, Marco and Sebastiano
Ricci, Giambattista Tiepolo, Pietro Longhi and
Gabriel Bella. In addition to the museum, the
complex also has a library and a space dedicated
to contemporary art exhibitions. Closed on
Mondays. Museum and Display Areas full ticket
price €10; Scarpa Area full ticket price €8. www.
querinistampalia.it. Castello, 5252 (Santa Maria
Formosa). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto lines 1, 2
(Rialto stop), lines 4.1, 4.2, 5.1, 5.2, 7, 20 (San
Zaccaria stop). Map F4
Museo Storico Navale della Marina
Militare
The Historic Naval Museum, the most important
of its kind in Italy, is owned by the Italian Navy
w w w. w heretravel er. com  49
SIGHTSEEING |
MUSEUMS &
ATTRACTIONS
MUSEUMS &
ATTRACTIONS
and the lagoon. Open daily. www.palazzoducale.
visitmuve.it. San Marco, 1 (piazza San Marco). T: 041
2715911. Vaporetto lines 1 (Vallaresso stop or San
Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti), 5.1 or 4.1 (San Zaccaria
stop). Map F4
Palazzo Fortuny
Mariano Fortuny (Granada 1871 - Venice 1949)
transformed Palazzo Pesaro degli Orfei into his
own personal atelier for photography, set-design,
textile creations and paintings. The museum’s
collections boasts an extensive collection of pieces
and materials commissioned for important projects:
paintings, lighting systems, photography and
ornate garments. The building is now used to host
art exhibitions. The museum is open only during
temporary exhibitions. Open 10am-6pm. Closed on
Tuesdays. Please note that prices vary depending on
the exhibition being shown. www.fortuny.visitmuve.
it. San Marco 3958 (Campo San Benedeto). T: 041
5200995. Vaporetto line 1 (Sant’Angelo stop), 2 (San
Samuele stop). Map E4
Palazzo Grassi
Museo Punta della Dogana
GALLERIE DELL’ACCADEMIA
This Venetian museum hub hosts the most important collection of Veneto artworks
dated between the 14th and 18th centuries. Don’t miss the outstanding works by
Bellini, Giorgione, Titian, Tintoretto, Tiepolo and Canaletto. www.gallerieaccademia.it
and is devoted to Venice’s seafaring history. In
addition to the main building, whose exhibition
spaces span 42 rooms and five floors, the
‘Padiglione delle Navi’ (Ships Pavilion), located in
the Arsenale’s old ‘Oars Workshop’, is also a part
of the museum. Built in the mid-16th century as
a workshop to build and store oars, since 1980 it
has housed an impressive collection of historical
vessels, and is an extension of the main museum’s
headquarters.
> Venice’s Historic Naval Museum (Castello 2148,
Riva San Biasio. T: 041 2441399) is currently
closed for renovation but the Padiglione delle
Navi, located just steps from the Naval Museum,
is open for public viewing,
> Padiglione delle Navi: from 1 June to 31
October: open daily, 8.45am-5pm (last admission
4.30pm); from 1 November to 31 May: Mon-Thurs
8.45am-1.30pm, Fri 8.45am-5pm (last admission
4.30pm), Sat-Sun and public holidays 10am-5pm.
Full ticket price €5. www.marina.difesa.it. Castello
2162/c (Rio della Tana). T: 041 2711411. Vaporetto
line 1, 4.1, 4.2 (Arsenale stop). Map H5
Museo Vedova-Magazzino del Sale
The objective of the Emilio and Annabianca
Vedova Foundation is to promote the art and work
of artist Emilio Vedova with a series of cultural
initiatives (research, exhibitions, educational
activities, conventions, study grants and awards).
Its two permanent exhibition spaces, used to
showcase works by the latter, also host temporary
exhibitions and events on a rotational basis: the
Magazzino del Sale 266 – based on a project by
Renzo Piano – and the former Studio Vedova.
Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December. Full price
ticket €8; www.fondazionevedova.org. Magazzino
50  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
del Sale Dorsoduro 266 (Zattere). Spazio
Vedova –Ticket Office and Bookshop Dorsoduro
50 (Zattere). T: 041 2410833. Vaporetto line 1
(Accademia stop or Salute stop), 2 (Accademia
stop), 5.1/5.2 (Spirito Santo stop), 6 (Zattere stop).
Map E6
Palazzo Cini-La Galleria
Situated in the Venetian 'Museums Mile', between
the Accademia, the Peggy Guggenheim collection
and the Punta della Dogana, the 16th century
Palazzo Cini in San Vio is the house-museum of
Count Vittorio Cini, and houses some remarkable
art collections: 14th-15th century paintings from
Tuscany and Ferraro (Piero della Francesca,
Filippo Lippi, Dosso Dossi and Cosmè Tura),
period furniture, silverware, ivories and ceramics.
Closed on Tuesdays. Full price ticket €10. www.
palazzocini.it. Dorsoduro 864 (San Vio). T: 041
2710217. Vaporetto Lines 1, 2 (Accademia stop),
lines 2, 4, 5, 6 (Zattere stop). Map E5
Palazzo Ducale
A landmark attraction, a masterpiece of Gothic
art and a repository of innumerable art treasures,
Venice’s Ducal Palace features a number of different
and intricate architectural and ornamental details,
dating from the 9th century. Formerly the residence
and government centre of the Doges, it not only
houses temporary exhibitions but can also be visited
via self-guided routes that allow visitors access to all
of its rooms, superbly decorated by artists like Titian,
Tiepolo and Tintoretto. The public entrance to the
Doge’s Palace is through the ‘Porta del Frumento’
which leads to the spacious council rooms and
then onwards to the exquisite rooms of the Doge’s
Apartment. Other highlights on this route include
the prisons and loggias overlooking the square
Overlooking the Grand Canal and recently restored
by Japanese architect Tadao Ando, Venice’s 18th
century Palazzo Grassi and the former harbour
of Punta della Dogana are two contemporary art
museums funded by the François Pinault Foundation.
They host important collective or monographic
exhibitions, featuring works from the Pinault
Collection, one of the world’s largest collections
of contemporary art. Palazzo Grassi’s ‘Teatrino’, an
adjunct to the exhibition spaces, offers an actionpacked calendar of conferences, concerts and
screenings of an international scope. Open daily
10am-7pm. Closed on Tuesdays, 25 December.
Full price ticket €15; Combo ticket: €20. www.
palazzograssi.it. T: 041 2001057 Palazzo Grassi San
Marco 30124 (Campo San Samuele). Vaporetto line 2
(San Samuele stop), 1 (Sant’Angelo stop). Map D4 •
Museo Punta della Dogana Dorsoduro 2. Vaporetto
line 1 (Salute stop). Map F5
Palazzo Grimani
Originally the home of the Grimani family, it was
enlarged in the 16th century and decorated with
frescoes, marbles and stuccoes that made it one
of Venice’s most unique buildings in terms of
its architecture, history and cultural and artistic
offerings. Opened to the public in 2008 following
its in-depth restoration, it is now a museum
hosting a few select works, typifying the style
of 16th century collections. Open Mon 8.15am2pm; Tues-Sun 8.15am-7.15pm. Closed 1 January,
1 May, 25 December. Full ticket price: €4. Ticket
pricing may vary during temporary exhibitions.
www.palazzogrimani.org. Castello, 4858. Info
and bookings T: 041 5200345. Vaporetto line 1, 2
(Rialto stop), line 14, 5.1, 4.1 (San Zaccaria stop).
Map F4
Palazzo Mocenigo - Centro Studi di
Storia del Tessuto e del Costume
Formerly a patrician residence, in 1985 it became
the Study Centre of the History of Fabrics and
Costumes. Its exhibition spaces explore various
aspects of the lives and activities of Venetian
aristocrats between the 17th and 18th centuries. The
exhibits on display include opulent garments and
olden-day accessories, with a section dedicated to
perfume. The palazzo’s furnishings and paintings
have been integrated with a number of works
originating from the warehouses of Venice’s
civic museums. PASSION TIP Don’t miss
the itineraries dedicated to Perfume and the
“Perfume Composition Courses” (2 hours, 80/100
euro per participant, including Kit and perfume).
Reservation is necessary: mocenigo.visitmuve.
it/workshop. Closed on Mon. Full price ticket €8.
www.mocenigo.visitmuve.it. Santa Croce 1992.
T: 041 721798. Vaporetto line 1 (San Stae stop).
Map E3
Peggy Guggenheim Collection
Palazzo Venier dei Leoni
The museum, boasting one of the most important
collections of 20th century art in Europe, hosts
the personal collection of American heiress
Peggy Guggenheim. Her palatial canal side
home showcases her collection of Cubist,
Furturist, Surrealist and Abstract Expressionist
art, with works by almost 200 artists, including
Picasso, Pollock, Kandinsky, Miró, de Chirico and
Dalí. It also hosts the works of other important
collections and prestigious temporary exhibitions.
Open Wed-Mon 10am-6pm; Closed on Tuesdays.
Full price ticket €15. www.guggenheim-venice.it.
Palazzo Venier dei Leoni, Dorsoduro 701 (Canal
Grande). T: 041 2405.440/419. Vaporetto line 2
(Accademia stop), line 1 (Accademia stop or
Salute stop). Map E5
Sale Monumentali della Biblioteca
Marciana
The old St. Mark’s Library, or Sansoviniana
Library, is a museum space that is used to host
exhibitions and events. Designed mainly by
Jacopo Sansovino, standouts include a Stairway
of Honour, a Vestibule and a Reading Room
embellished with 16th century decorations.
Together with Palazzo della Zecca, where the
reading rooms and offices are located, it is still
a part of the monumental headquarters of the
Biblioteca Nazionale Marciana which in addition
to rare books also hosts priceless, antique
manuscripts. Open daily. www.marciana.venezia.
sbn.it. Entrance and Ticket Office: Museo Correr,
San Marco 52 (piazzetta San Marco). T: 041
2407211. Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso stop, San
Zaccaria stop), 2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1, 4.1 (San
Zaccaria stop). Map F5
Scuola Grande di San Giovanni
Evangelista
Founded in 1261, the School is housed in a
complex featuring several different architectural
styles, including masterpieces of Renaissance art
like its superb double staircase (1498) right up
to the final major architectural changes made in
the 18th century to enhance the Sala Capitolare.
It contains numerous artistic masterpieces,
including works by Tintoretto, Palma the Younger
and Tiepolo. Today, the School is a prestigious
space used to host congresses, art exhibitions
and concerts. Tours are suspended during
congresses. Visit the website to check
the days on which the museum is open to
the public. Open daily, 9.30am-5pm. Full
price ticket €5; Scuola Grande + church
€8. www.scuolasangiovanni.it. San Polo,
2454 (Campiello della Scuola). T: 041 718234.
Vaporetto line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop).
Map D4
| SIGHTSEEING
Torre dell’Orologio (Clock Tower)
The Clock or Mori Tower dates back to the 15th
century and is one of Venice’s most famous
architectural attractions. Like a triumphal arch, it
dominates the entrance from St. Mark’s Square
to the city’s shop-filled Mercerie (from the word
‘Merchandise’). If you stand close up, you can
observe the complex mechanisms of this large
astrological clock, a masterpiece of technology and
engineering. After climbing the spiral staircase,
you emerge onto its terraces from which you can
enjoy a magnificent view over St. Mark’s Square.
Admission subject to reservation, with an expert
tour guide. (T: 848 082000 Mon-Fri 9am-1pm/2pm6pm; Sat 9am-2pm; www.torreorologio.visitmuve.it).
Full price ticket €12. www.torreorologio.
visitmuve.it. Piazza San Marco.
Vaporetto line 1 (Vallaresso
stop or San Zaccaria stop),
2 (Giardinetti stop), 5.1 or
4.1 (San Zaccaria stop).
Map F4
Scuola Grande di San Rocco
The headquarters
of the San Rocco Brotherhood, this stunning
building, to which hardly any modifications have
been made, hosts more than 60 masterpieces
by artists of the likes of Giorgione, Tiepolo and
Titian, still presented in their original layout. Its
establishment represented an important
moment in the history of 16th century Venetian
art, above all thanks to Tintoretto’s famous
cycle of Old and New Testament scenes. Open
daily, 9.30am-5.30pm. Closed on 25 December and 1
January. Full price ticket €10; Scuola Grande + church
€8. www.scuolagrandesanrocco.it. San Polo, 3052
(Campo San Rocco stop). T: 041 718234. Vaporetto
line 1, 2 (San Tomà stop). Map D4
Cold-painted terracotta by Arturo Martini,
named ‘Prostitute’ (1913), donated by Maria
Barbantini to the CA’ PESARO, International
Gallery of Modern Art. capesaro.visitmuve.it
MUSEUM PASS
Just one ticket for 11 museums >
The Museum Pass is a cumulative ticket
that offers access to all the permanent
collections of Venice’s civic and affiliated
museums. It is valid for 6 months and
allows one entry per museum site.
Full price ticket €24 > This ticket is
valid for: Palazzo Ducale, Museo Correr,
Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Sale
Monumentali della Biblioteca Nazionale
Marciana; Ca’ Rezzonico-Museo del
Settecento Veneziano; Museo di Palazzo
Mocenigo e Centro Studi di Storia del
Tessuto e del Costume; Casa di Carlo
Goldoni and Biblioteca di Studi Teatrali;
Ca’ Pesaro-Galleria Internazionale d’Arte
Moderna + Museo d’Arte Orientale;
Museo del Vetro; Museo del Merletto;
Museo di Storia Naturale.
Info & Reservations: www.visitmuve.it
Call center 848 082000.
From abroad +39 041 42730892.
Museo Correr
w w w. w heretravel er. com  51
ENTERTAINMENT
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
CONCERT VENUES
& THEATRES
Teatro Goldoni
The Goldoni Theater is the oldest theater in Venice
and the fourth most ancient in the city. Built by the
Vendramin family in 1622, it was originally named
after them. Its high point came in 1752, when it
engaged Carlo Goldoni, the city’s most important
dramatist at that time. It was renovated several
times, first in 1818 and subsequently in 1933 and
in 1979. In addition to Verona’s Teatro Nuovo and
Padua’s Teatro Verdi, the Goldoni Theater is now
managed by the Teatro Stabile di Veneto. www.
teatrostabiledelveneto.it. San Marco, 4650/B. T: 041
2402011. Vaporetto line 1 (Rialto stop). Map E4
Teatro La Fenice
UNMISSABLE Located in the Sestiere San Marco,
La Fenice Opera House is the one of the most
legendary opera houses in Italy. Twice destroyed by
fire (1836 and 1996) and twice restored to its former
splendour, for centuries it has been Venice's principal
stage for world-class opera, music, symphonies and
the International Festival of Contemporary Music. In
the 19th century, it hosted the ‘premieres’ of operas
by Gioachino Rossini, Vincenzo Bellini, Gaetano
Donizetti and Giuseppe Verdi, while in the 20th
century it became a focal point for contemporary
productions, featuring world premieres by Igor
Stravinskij, Benjamin Britten, Sergej Prokofiev, Luigi
Nono and Bruno Maderna and recently also operas
by Mauricio Kagel, Adriano Guarnieri, Luca Mosca
and Claudio Ambrosini. www.teatrolafenice.it. The
theater is generally open daily for tours from 9.30am
to 6pm. Full ticket: 10 €. The ticket price includes an
audio guide, available in 5 languages (Italian, English,
German, French and Spanish). San Marco, 4387
(Campo San Fantin). T: 041 786672. Vaporetto line 1
or 2 (San Marco-Vallaresso stop). Map E5
Wellness and luxury
Venice, a city of artistic treasures, romantic settings and luxurious wellness retreats. Treat yourself to
some pleasant relaxation at a unique spot with a spectacular view over the lagoon, the Spa on the
Island of Roses. By Stefania Vida
L
ush, expansive gardens, a breathtaking
view over Venice’s skyline and, in 2015,
a hospital-to-hotel conversion, which
won numerous awards, by archistar Matteo
Thun, make the Island of Roses a tranquil
retreat. You can easily begin your exploration
of the treasures of the Lagoon from this
retreat, and also treat yourself to some
relaxation. An interesting fact: the Island of
Roses is the ‘youngest’ island in the Venetian
lagoon. Founded ‘only’ in 1870, it has, since
its establishment, been one of the favourite
destinations of illustrious figures, including
King Vittorio Emanuele III, who visited it in
1936, as the royal coat of arms at its entrance
bears witness.
You will ask yourself how you get to this
52  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
enchanted place. It’s really simple: you can
take the resort’s regular, free shuttle launch
from San Marco Giardinetti, a 20-minute
journey, which takes you directly to the island.
Inspired by the ethos of Venice, a gateway
to the East, and offering a different in-depth
concept of wellness, the Spa on the Island of
Roses is a special place to rejuvenate, relax and
experience the luxury of the most exclusive
treatments.
Housed in a simple yet elegant early 20thcentury building, this Spa – the largest in
Venice extending over an area of 1750 square
metres, faces onto the water, offering eight
treatment rooms overlooking the lagoon.
Other on-site amenities include a Finnish
sauna heated to a temperature of 90°C with a
Himalayan pink salt wall, a bio-sauna heated
to 45°C, a hammam (a traditional Turkish bath),
a gym and a heated indoor swimming pool
that extends outdoors into its picturesque
gardens (16 hectares), characterized by ageold olive trees, and a wooden parterre, where
guests can spend a relaxing day, taking yoga
and meditation classes and participating in
exercises based on a holistic approach.
The Spa is open to outside guests from 9.30am
to 8pm (adults only age 16+).
>> c/o JW Mariott Venice Resort & Spa
Isola delle Rose
Laguna di San Marco
www.jwvenice.com
Currently celebrating its 94th edition, the rich events
calendar of this year’s Opera Festival featured 46
performances with 5 operas staged on a rotational
basis: ‘Carmen’ by Georges Bizet, ‘Aida’, ‘La Traviata’,
‘Il Trovatore’ by Giuseppe Verdi and ‘Turandot’ by
Giacomo Puccini. (www.mostracallas.it). www.arena.
it. Verona, piazza Bra 1. T: 045 8005151, 5873. Off
Map
WELLNESS
Boscolo Venezia
Elegance, style and design blend to create a
regenerating oasis, the ideal place for a oneof-a-kind pampering experience offering a rich
program of wellness and body treatments. c/o
Boscolo Venezia. Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta
Madonna dell’Orto - Calle Larga Piave). T: 041
2208111. Vaporetto line 4.1 and 5.1 (Sant’Alvise
stop). Map E2
Centro Benessere Casanova
GAMBLING & CASINOS
Casinò di Venezia
San Clemente Palace Kempinski
VENETO HOT VENUES
Arena di Verona
The best-preserved Roman amphitheater in the
world and the best known in Italy after Rome’s
Colosseum, the Arena, the city’s legendary open-air
opera house, is located in Verona’s historic centre
(115 km from Venice). Each summer, since 1913, it has
hosted a famous opera festival featuring must-see
performances and internationally renowned stars.
www.teatrolafenice.it
Teatro Olimpico Vicenza
One of Vicenza’s artistic marvels (located 75 km
from Venice), the Teatro Olimpico was designed by
Renaissance architect Andrea Palladio in 1580. It is
the first and oldest covered ‘Teatro Stabile’ in the
world. Its interior simulates the outdoor setting of
classical theatres, with a monumental rectangular
proscenium, built to host its inaugural performance
in 1585. Seven wooden perspective scenes depicting
the streets of Thebes depart from here in a sunburst
pattern. Included in UNESCO’s list of World Heritage
Sites in 1994, it continues to host performances and
concerts. www.teatrolimpicovicenza.it. Vicenza,
piazza Matteotti, 11. T: 0444 222800. Off Map
An intimate, relaxing location set in the gardens
where Casanova was known to court his lovers.
The Center offers a wide range of treatments and
massages with a particular emphasis on facials
and body treatments. c/o Belmond Hotel Cipriani.
www.belmond.com. Giudecca, 10. T: 041 240801.
Vaporetto line 4.1 (Zitelle stop). Map F4
Inaugurated in 1638, this is the world's oldest gaming
house and its charm has remained unaltered over
the years. A perfect example of renaissance style
stately home, the dwelling place of the doges and
Richard Wagner’s last residence, Ca’ Vendramin
Calergi is one of the most elegant buildings
overlooking Venice’s major waterway, the Grand
Canal. Today the rooms for elegant French games
and American gaming tables are given over to the
best professionals, whilst over 600 slot machines
provide a more informal way of having fun. For
venues, opening times, tickets: www.casinovenezia.
it. Ca’ Vendramin Calergi - Cannaregio, 2040. T. 041
5297111. Vaporetto line 1 or 2 (San Marcuola stop).
• Ca' Noghera - Italy’s first American-style casino,
opened in 1999, it offers over 5,000 square meters of
entertainment, including a new poker room for Texas
hold’em Poker tournaments. Via Paliaga 4/8 Tessera
(5 minutes from the Marco Polo Airport). Map E2
LA FENICE
OPERA HOUSE
Here you can experience the Herb Massage Therapy
service, a new approach to healing: an intimate and
authentic journey based on the restorative powers
of herb plants and the sensuous scents of Venice.
The San Clemente Palace Kempinski offers a variety
of massages - relaxing, Swedish and deep tissue
- combining essential oils of lavender, rosemary and
sage. Teas and coffee made with Venetian herbs
and spices are complimentary. c/o San Clemente
Palace Kempinski. www.kempinski.com. Isola di San
Clemente, 1. T: 041 4750111. Hotel’s complimentary
boat from piazza San Marco. Off Map
JW Marriott Venice
Housed in a simple and elegant building, the Spa –
the largest in Venice with its 1,750 m² – opens like a
shell onto the water and has eight treatment cabins
with a view of the lagoon and a marvellous suite. c/o
JW Marriott Venice. www.jwvenice.com. Isola delle
Rose, Laguna di San Marco. T: 041 8521300. Private
boat from piazza San Marco c/o moletto JW Marriott
every 30 minutes. Off Map
Eforea Spa
The Spa offers five treatment rooms but also a sauna,
a Turkish bath, a Jacuzzi and a relaxation area. Make
sure to visit its panoramic swimming pool (reserved
for hotel guests only). c/o Hilton Molino Stucky.
molinostuckyhilton.it. Giudecca, 810. T: 041 2723414.
Vaporetto line 4.1 (Giudecca stop). Map G6
■ OPERA
1, 2 March
LA BOHÈME
Music by: Giacomo Puccini
Stefano Ranzani, conductor
Francesco Micheli, director
Edoardo Sanchi, sets
Silvia Aymonino, costumes
Claudio Marino Moretti, chorus master
24 , 25, 28, 29, 20, 31 March
and 1, 2, 4 April
CARMEN
Music by: Georges Bizet
Myung-Whun Chung, conductor
Calixto Bieito, director
Alfons Flores, sets
■ CONCERTS
4, 5 March (Teatro Malibran)
MARCO ANGIUS CONCERT
Music by: Carmine-Emanuele Cella,
Camillo Togni, Robert Schumann
Marco Angius, conductor
■ CHAMBER MUSIC
8, 9 March (Sale Apollinee)
MUSIKÀMERA – GERHARD QUARTET
Music by: Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart,
Aban Berg, Bedrich Smetana
Lluis Castán Cochs and Judit Bardolet
Vilaró, violin
Miquel Jordà Saún, viola
Jesús Miralles Roger, cello
21, 22 March (Sale Apollinee)
MUSIKÀMERA – PIETRO DE MARIA IN
RECITAL
Music by: Johann Sebastian Bach,
Goldberg Variations
Pietro De Maria, piano
■ DANCE
16, 17, 18 March (Teatro Malibran)
PARSON DANCE – DANCE COMPANY
David Parson, choreographer
Howell Bimkley, light designer
David Parson/Judy Wirkula/Naomi
Luppescu/Mia McSwain , costumes
Rita Blitt, visual art
w w w. w heretravel er. com  53
OUT OF TOWN
CENTURIES OF HISTORY
On the previous page, Villa Pisani in
Stra, one of the most famous Veneto
Villas . On the right, a corner of
Verona with the Arena.
Below, a breathtaking view
of Cortina d'Ampezzo, in the heart
of the Dolomites and,
at the bottom, Treviso.
historical bridges allows visitors to absorb some
of Verona’s most romantic, scenic views – the
perfect place to fall in love.
www.tourism.verona.it
DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 115 km
Veneto, all the allure
of the region
Villa Pisani, Stra
Several charming destinations,
a perfect way to spend
a relaxing day while having fun.
By Simona P.K. Daviddii
VILLAS OF BRENTA
The magnificent Brenta Riviera, crossed by
the Brenta River and its canals, occupies most
of the stretch of land that runs from Padua to
Venice. Over the centuries, sumptuous villas,
set in lush, beautifully tended gardens, were
built on the banks of different waterways.
There are approximately thirty villas, and
the best way to admire them is from the
water, embarking either in Padua or Venice
for a pleasant day cruise, perhaps on board
a ‘burchiello’, a reproduction of the ancient
18th century craft used by Venetian noblemen.
Among the gems that embellish the shores,
the monumental Villa Pisani in Stra, is a must
see. Palladio also left his mark on Brenta: near
Mira, you will find the 16th century Villa Foscari
also known as la Malcontenta. In Mira, make
sure to visit the 16th century Villa Contarini
dei Leoni and in its vicinity Villa Widman,
a spectacular 18th century complex. The
last noteworthy aristocratic dwelling is Villa
Sagredo in Vignovo. It was built on the remains
54  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
of a medieval castle and is still inhabited, some
say, by the ghost of Giovanni Sagredo, a disciple
and friend of Galileo Galilei.
www.rivieradelbrentaturismo.com
Above all, Verona is known as the city of love. It
is the famous setting of Shakespeare’s Romeo
and Juliet, but it is also a vibrant town, boasting
an intense cultural life.
You are likely to stumble upon Juliet’s house
with its beautiful Gothic portal and famous
balcony, while strolling through the streets
of the ancient city, amidst squares, porticoes,
aristocratic palazzi, medieval towers, churches
and courts. Romeo’s house, with its imposing
crenellated walls, is located just a little further
on. The Adige river is located just steps away,
and a sunset stroll along its shores and over its
VERONA
Located just over a hundred kilometers from
Venice, Verona captivates visitors with a stunning
medieval historical center, encircling the Roman
Arena – the ultimate stage for musical events
in summer. Although the Arena attracts music
lovers/aficionados from all over the world, the
haunts of Romeo and Juliet are no less popular.
Cortina d'Ampezzo
?
Marostica ?
LUGANO
MENDRISIO
Vicenza
BERGAMO BRESCIA Verona
?
?
NOVARA
MILANO
Mantua
?
Abano
Montegrotto ?
Padua
?
?
Palmanova
?
? Noventa
di Piave
?Venice
TRIESTE
? Chioggia
ALESSANDRIA
TORINO
Treviso
FERRARA
PIACENZA
GENOVA
BOLOGNA
RIMINI
MAR LIGURE
VENTIMIGLIA
MAR
ADRIATICO
PISA
LIVORNO
FIRENZE
ANCONA
CORTINA D'AMPEZZO
Don’t miss the opportunity of a weekend
getaway at one of Italy’s most exclusive resorts,
a charming town exclusively positioned in the
heart of the breathtaking Dolomites. A symbol
of style, fashion and the Italian way of life,
Cortina is the spectacular scenery and full range
of alpine sports and outdoor activities offered
by this bustling mountain town, attract nature
lovers and sports enthusiasts during all seasons.
First rate skiing, a lively après-ski scene, exclusive
shopping and a great choice of events and
entertainment, confirms Cortina’s position as a
world-class winter destination. Winter offers an
array of outdoor activities including excursions
on snowcats and sleighs, nighttime descents
from mountain refuges, romantic helitours, ice
driving, snowkiting and horse-drawn sleigh
rides… to enjoy the magic of the Dolomites
from dawn to dusk.
cortina.dolomiti.org - www.dolomitiskirock.com
DISTANCE FROM VENICE 420 km
Verona
Cortina d'Ampezzo
TREVISO
Lying at the heart of the city is piazza dei
Signori, home to Palazzo dei Trecento and the
elegant Loggia Dei Cavalieri. Its two rivers, the
Sile and the Cagnan, meander gently amidst
its streets adding a unique touch of charm to
its historic centre encircled by the old town
walls. Its colonnaded houses with their frescoed
facades overlooking the Buranelli canal and
the Isola della Pescheria tell of Treviso’s close
relationship with its waters.
The artistic treasures housed in the Duomo and
in the museum hub of Santa Caterina dei Servi
di Mari are particularly noteworthy and include
works by Bellini, Lotto, Titian and Bassano. Art
lovers should make a point of visiting Casa dei
Carraresi which hosts prestigious international
exhibitions. A city with a beguiling charm all of
its own brimming over with picturesque osterie
and small cafes overlooking its squares.
DISTANCE FROM VENICE: 30 km
Treviso, piazza dei Signori
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OUT OF TOWN | ABANO-MONTEGROTTO
OUT OF TOWN
Advertorial
Euganei Hills
A unique blend of nature, art and wellness
Set against the green hills of the Euganei Hills and located approximately
60 kilometres from Venice, the magnificent Villa Barbarigo, one of the most
beautiful Veneto Villas in the area, is worth taking a trip out of town.
At Villa Barbarigo, in the province of Padua,
you can admire the authentic Italian Baroque
Garden of Valsanzibio. Over the years, it has
gained international recognition. In addition
being published in leading art and botany
books, it was named the most beautiful
garden in Italy in 2003 and one of the most
beautiful in Europe in 2007. In 2004, it was
used as the setting for the Merchant of
Venice, a romantic film starring Al Pacino. In
2013, ‘QVC’, an American television network,
chose it for a program that was aired live and,
in 2016 ‘Arte’, the European Culture Channel,
dedicated an installment of the program
‘Jardins d’ici et d’ailleurs’ to it, selecting
it from among twenty of Europe’s most
important historical gardens. Each year, the
garden is a highly sought-after destination
for international tourists.
THE MAJESTIC PARK,
THE STAR OF THE SHOW
The villa, which was used as a residence prior
to the design of its monumental garden,
complements the majestic park. In fact, it is
the only Veneto Villa whose park is the main
feature. The garden was built during the
second half of the 17th century by Venetian
nobleman Zuane Francesco Barbarigo, with
the help of his sons, Antonio and Gregorio.
56  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
It was the latter – a cardinal, the Archbishop
of Padua and a future saint – who inspired the
religious symbolism of the project designed by
leading Vatican architect and fountain expert
Luigi Bernini, brother of the famous sculptor
Gianlorenzo. Cardinal Barbarigo wanted the
garden of Valsanzibio to symbolize the path of
perfection that leads man from Error to Truth,
from Ignorance to Revelation. The Pavilion or
Portal of Diana was not the only main access
route via water to the Barbarigo estate in the
12th and 13th centuries. This superb, imposing
gateway represented the beginning of the
Road to Salvation, ending in the open space
that houses the Fountain of the Mushroom, also
known as the Fountain of Ecstasy.
A SYMBOLIC ITINERARY
This magnificent Baroque garden has 70
statues, mostly by Marengo, sculpted in Istrian
stone. There are also other minor sculptures
that blend harmoniously with the architecture,
streams, waterfalls, fountains, water features
and fish pools that are scattered amidst
numerous trees and shrubs, spread over more
than 10 hectares of land. Additionally, within the
complex itself, important highlights along the
Road to Salvation include the Bosso maze, the
symbolic Cave of the Hermit, Rabbit Island and
the Monument to Time. Until the 19th century,
WELCOME TO THE COLLI EUGANEI
Known as the ‘Pearl of the Euganei
Hills’, Villa Barbarigo with its
monumental garden is located in an
area steeped in nature and history,
the ideal destination for art lovers
and nature enthusiasts. Thanks to
the thermal waters of Abano and
Montegrotto Terme, the largest spa
hub in Europe, the area is a sought-after
destination for those in search
of relaxing, wellness retreats
Garden of Villa Barbarigo
visitors could access the Portal of Diana – socalled because of the goddess of hunting who
stands atop it – via water from Venice. Today,
Battaglia can still be reached by boat. In those
days, however, initiates had to cross the Valley
of Sant’Eusebio, now known as Valsanzibio
(from which the garden takes its name) to reach
the landing stage in front of the garden.
AN AUTHENTIC HISTORICAL GARDEN
Built between 1665 and 1696, the garden of
Valsanzibio is an extraordinary example of
a symbolic garden. This magnificent garden
boasts a number of fully operative water
features and is currently one of the largest,
best-kept Baroque gardens in the world. Credit
for the preservation of this beautifully tended
garden is owed to the loving care bestowed
upon it by the ‘Barbarigo Noblemen’ during
the 17th and 18th centuries, the noble Michiel
family and the Counts of Martinengo during
the 19th century and the Counts of Donà delle
Rose during the early 20th century. The villa
and it gardens have been the property of the
Counts of Pizzoni-Ardemani since 1929. Owners
of the estate for three generations, the PizzoniArdemani family not only repaired the damage
caused by military occupation and the forced
abandonment of the villa during World War II,
but also recently renovated all of the garden’s
33 water features, damaged by eighty years of
gradual ground-water depletion.
www.valsanzibiogiardino.it
[email protected]
The mud used by the spas of the hotels in Abano and Montegrotto
Terme, affiliated with the AQUAEHOTELS Consortium, is identified by
the ‘Fango Eutrofico Eudermico Euganeo ( “F.E.E.E.”) trademark and
is quality certified. The production process – which guarantees specific
characteristic and scientifically proven therapeutic properties – makes it
unique worldwide. The salt-bromine-iodine hyper-thermal water which
gushes from the depths of the sub-soil in Abano and Montegrotto Terme
at a temperature of 80°C, is contained in special vats known as ‘fangaie’.
When this water comes into contact with the natural clay enriched with
micro-algae spores, a process involving the production of powerful
biological active principles comes into play, serving not only as a cure for
muscle and back problems but also as a therapy to combat skin-ageing.
To try a F.E.E.E. mud treat visit the www.aquaehotels.it website.
Portal of Diana, Villa Barbarigo
WATER FIRST AND FOREMOST !
For the first time, in the exclusive “Venetian
Thermal Water” line, thermal spring
water is combined with two anti-ageing
properties: hyaluronic acid which helps
to restore skin elasticity, and natural antioxidants, including Goji and Cassia Alato
Leaf extracts, which protect the skin from
the effects of ageing. This line is a result of
the combination of thermal water drawn
from four springs in the Veneto region,
mixed to obtain different concentrations
based on their specific salinity: water from
the Primavera Source of the Palatini-based
‘Terme di Salzano’ (in which bicarbonate,
calcium and magnesium are dissolved); the
waters of ‘Terme di Bibione’ (originating
from deep underground springs);
the low mineral content water
from the ‘Terme dei Colli Asolani’
in Crespano (home to the spring
named for Empress Sissi ); and
finally, the water of the ‘Terme
Euganee’ (which flows through
the municipalities of Abano,
Montegrotto, Battaglia, Teolo and
Galzignano at a temperature of
87°C). ‘Venetian Thermal Water’
can be purchased online at
www.aquaehotels.it or from the
best hotels and sales points in the
area. Ask your concierge.
B E N E S S E R E
S T I L E
D I
V I T A
www.aquaehotels.it
w w w. w heretravel er. com  57
ESSENTIALS
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
Emergency
POLICE T: 113
AMBULANCE T: 118
FIRE BRIGADE T: 115
TRAFFIC POLICE T: 041 2747070
LOST AND FOUND ON VAPORETTI T: 041 2722179
24-HOUR PHARMACY: check the display at
all pharmacies.
Airports
INTERNATIONAL MARCO POLO DI TESSERA
AIRPORT (VCE) - Venice’s Marco Polo Airport
offers easy access to numerous destinations
located in the Veneto region and in Northern
Italy, the Canova di Treviso Airport
(in Sant’Angelo) and main railway routes.
The Marco Polo Airport is situated at a distance
of 13 km from Venice (www.veniceairport.it).
Trasportation from the Marco Polo Airport to
the historic centre of Venice
(and vice-versa):
• Taxis (15 min. to Piazzale Roma, approximately
€40);
• water taxis (fast, private motorboats,
approximately €80 ). This service is operative
24/24h (Consorzio Motoscafi Venezia
www.motoscafivenezia.it. T: 041 5222303).
• ATVO shuttle bus (20 min. to Piazzale Roma,
€3, luggage included);
• ACTV bus no. 5 (30 min. to Piazzale Roma with
intermediate stops, €1, luggage excluded);
• Alilaguna motorboats (a private service that
uses ACTV’s network of docking stations with
intermediate stops at strategic points throughout
the city. Fares range from 8 to 27 euros). www.
alilaguna.it. T: 041 2401701.
Trains
“SESTIERI”, THE DISTRICTS OF VENICE
FERROVIE DELLO STATO - Trenitalia Railway
Venice, the Floating City
Some information and invaluable tips to experience the best that this magical city on water has to offer.
By Simona P. K. Daviddi
Italians (at least many of them), may already
know that Venice… actually floats! Unlike
Amsterdam or Saint Petersburg, it is not just
furrowed by canals, bordered by roads and
pavements. In Venice, canals are the only
available communication route, bearing in
mind that part of the city extends over a
handful of beautiful islands that are scattered
across the Lagoon. For this reason, the lagoon
city can only be crossed on foot or by boat.
Cars, motorbikes, bicycles and even roller
skates are strictly forbidden. But this is not
all. At times Venice may find itself... under
water! The acqua alta phenomenon – the
result of heavy rainfall and high tides - can
cause the water level to rise by as much as
a meter, forcing everyone to walk on raised
plank walkways, or don rain boots (many
shops, including tobacconists, sell disposable
58  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
ones) in order to cross the city’s flooded calli,
campielli and salizade. Calli, campielli and
salizade are Venetian words used to identify
streets, squares and alleys while sestieri is
the local word indicating the six districts the
city is divided into: San Marco, Dorsoduro,
Cannaregio, Santa Croce, San Polo and
Castello. This division dates back to the 12th
century and also includes areas such as La
Giudecca, the Island of San Giorgio Maggiore
(San Marco) and the Island of San Michele,
home to the city’s cemetery (Castello).
Street numbers in each sestiere start from 1
and often reach four figures, for example, one
of the last numbers of the sestiere of Castello
is 7,000.
You need to learn them if you want
to find your way through the spectacular,
maze-like historic centre.
Venice also has its own network of public...
and private transportation: its vaporetti, real
waterbuses, are the most popular craft used
by locals, which is why they are often very
crowded during peak hours. These enginepowered water taxis are able to whiz across
the lagoon in a heartbeat, but for those
who prefer a unique, incredibly romantic
experience, the famous, distinctive gondola
is an absolute must. This elegant, black,
one-oared rowing boat drifts gently across
the water, while its gondolier sings an entire
repertoire of traditional Venetian folk songs.
It goes without saying that the waters of the
canals are not suitable for swimming, and their
banks are often slippery. Be careful not to be
so focused on your selfie stick that you walk
into a canal because you might be in for some
© PAOLA DALLA VALENTINA
rather unpleasant surprises!
Company - Info T: 892021. www.trenitalia.com.
Venice’s Railway Station (Santa Lucia)
can be accessed from all main European
and Italian cities. The Railway Station overlooks
the lagoon and is located just steps from the
stops of Venice’s main public transportation lines.
E.g.: to reach St. Mark’s Square by vaporetto,
take line 1 or 2. Estimated journey time from main
Italian cities via high-speed trains, including
Frecciarossa, Frecciabianca, Frecciargento,
Italo, Thello, Eurocity:
Tourist Information
Santa Croce
Isola di San Michele
Cannaregio
San Polo
Dorsoduro
Castello
San Marco
Giudecca
Isola di San Giorgio Maggiore
APT - Azienda di promozione Turistica Città
Metropolitana di Venezia (eng.turismovenezia.
it/): Palazzetto Carmagnani, San Marco 2637.
T: 041 5298711.
VENEZIA UNICA - The official tourism website
of the City of Venice (www.veneziaunica.it)
Tourist Card
VENEZIA UNICA CITY PASS is an all-in-one pass
that offers unlimited use of public transportation,
admission to tourist attractions and cultural
events in the city, plus a number of other useful
services. You can purchase your card online and
customize your Venezia Unica City Pass
to suit your individual travel needs
(www.veneziaunica.it/en) exchange vouchers.
Open daily 9am-4pm.
T: 392 6786628.
Cannaregio, like Castello, is the largest and
most densely populated district of Venice. Its
name probably derives from the expanse of
reeds found in the swamps on which it was
built.
Castello takes its name from the castle of
which traces still remain today. It extends
around the Arsenale and includes the
Gardens of the Biennale and the Riva degli
Schiavoni.
Dorsoduro is named after the compact sand
dunes found in this area. It overlooks both the
Grand Canal and the Giudecca Canal, along
which the long promenade known as the
Fondamenta delle Zattere stretches.
San Marco takes its name from the Basilica.
This is the city’s main sestiere because it
houses the palaces that once constituted the
government of Venice until its fall.
San Polo, which takes its name from the
church of San Polo, is the geographic centre
of Venice. It stretches from the highest part of
the Rialto Bridge and is the place where the
Rialto fish and vegetable market is held.
Santa Croce takes its name from the ancient
church of the same name which unfortunately
was demolished under Napoleon’s rule. It
includes the Stazione Marittima and the
piazzale Roma terminal, a junction for train
and road transport (buses, cars) and lagoon
traffic (ferries, vaporetti or water buses).
w w w. w heretravel er. com  59
ESSENTIALS
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERE-VENICE.COM
GETTING AROUND VENICE
THE LIDO OF VENICE
Because it is a relatively small, compact city (a 45-minute walk from North to South) whose main points of
interest are situated just a short distance from each
other, visiting Venice on foot is the ideal solution.
Although the Lido is Venice’s beach, it is also much
more. An island, a town with its own history and
a nature reserve, it is also a jet-setters’ paradise,
with luxury hotels and exclusive villas. In September,
it becomes the world capital of cinema.
Vaporetti - An efficient network of water bus routes
covers the entire city and includes transportation
to the islands.The service is active 24/24h but runs
less frequently between 9.30pm and 6am. Landing
stages are located at central points around the
city (including Piazzale Roma, Rialto, Piazza San
Marco…) .
Tickets - Although paper tickets are available
at main embarkation points and from authorized
resellers displaying the ACTV logo, electronic
tickets can also be pre-purchased online. ACTV.
Piazzale Roma. T: 041 2424. www actv.it. There are
6 different types of tickets, ranging from hourly
tickets (€7.50 for a 75’ regular route) to a weekly
pass (€60) for unlimited travel on almost all lines.
TIP The boat trip from one bank of the Grand
Canal to the other costs 50 cents (via ferry).You can
pre-purchase reduced-price tickets from Venice
Connected: www.veniceconnected.com. IMOB
smart cards are available at all ACTV ticket offices.
Although they allow you to save on official rates,
they are only recommended for long-term visits.
Gondolas - These traditional craft are among the
best-known tourist attraction for those wishing to
experience a view of Venice that is anything but
pedestrian. They are used almost exclusively by
tourists (and Venetians on their wedding days).
TIP Before embarking, we suggest that you check
official rates (approximately €80 for 45 minutes and
€100 after 7pm). Agree on a price, time limit and
singing in advance to avoid unexpected surcharges.
Associazione dei Gondolieri T. 041 5285075. www.
gondolavenezia.it
Traghetti (Ferries) - ‘Traghetti’ are gondolas that
cross the Grand Canal in 8 points. ‘Traghetti’ rides
cost just €2 for non-residents (for holders of City
Pass Venezia Unica or ACTV passes, rides cost 0.70)
and operate almost non-stop. Four ferry services
operate in Venice.
Taxi - Water taxis with a cabin (private water taxis)
are available for hire from 16 landing stages,
including Lido Aeroporto Marco Polo, piazzale
Roma, Ferrovia, Rialto and San Marco, or from
your hotel. TIP Although private water taxis
can be costly, they are the fastest and most
practical means of getting around Venice. Ask your
concierge.
Car - The city can be accessed from the mainland
by car, thanks to an elevated section (a 4km
bridge, the longest in Italy, also known as the
‘Translagunare’), with limited parking options
at garages in Piazzale Roma or on the Island
of Tronchetto. Prices for 24-hour parking cost
approximately €30 euro. TIP It’s advisable to
travel to Mestre by car (24-hour parking costs
approximately €15 euro) and then continue on to
Venice by public transport.
PHOTOS © SVIDA_WHEREITALIA
Gondolas, a tourist’s dream!
A hallmark symbol of Venice, who has never dreamt of riding
on one of these marvels of craftsmanship, whose charms have
withstood the test of time?
The components (approximately 280) of these extraordinary craft
still bear their almost fairytale-like names of the past: ‘sankòni’,
‘fiùboni’, ‘solarai’ and ‘maistre’... To name but a few.
60  W H E R E V E N I C E I M A R C H 2017
Tradition has it that each gondolier has his own gondola, custommade according to his weight and height.
Among the most ancient boatyards (or 'squeri'), the most
remarkable is perhaps that of Domenico Tramontin and Sons.
Established in 1884, it was the supplier to the House of Savoy,
the Prefecture and the Commune of Venice
(Dorsoduro, 1542. www.tramontingondole.it).
An interesting feature that you are bound to
notice on a gondolier’s uniform is the logo. Its
most recent version was created by the Style
Department of Duca d’Aosta, a shop established
in 1902 in the Rialto neighbourhood by Emilio
Ceccato.
The logo features St. Mark as the Winged Lion, holding an open
book, a symbol of peace and strength, framed by two 'ferri' – the
traditional iron gondola prow ornaments (also known in Venetian
as 'fero da próva' or 'dolfin').
Bringing one home as a keepsake is neither easy (nor cheap!), but
you can avoid this by purchasing a souvenir created ad hoc. Where?
At Emilio Ceccato’s clothing and accessory store, the official
supplier and technical sponsor of the Associazione Gondolieri di
Venezia (The Gondolier’s Association of Venice) in San Polo 16/17
(T: 041 5222700) and in San Marco, 257 (T: 041 8478885).
www.emilioceccato.com
The Lido (meaning beach in Italian) is a separate
island from Venice. Measuring less than 200 metres
in depth in certain areas, it is a 12km stretch of
sand, strategically positioned between the Lagoon
and the open sea, only connected to the city and
dry land by ‘vaporetti’ or ferry boats.
The clear difference between the Lido and Venice
is that the Lido has real streets, which means you
get around by car. In mid-November, Rolls Royce’s,
Cadillac’s and Bentleys abound at the entrances
of grand hotels. However, today, it is considered
chicer to access the Lido by boat or explore it on
foot or by bicycle.
WHAT TO SEE - The nature reserve and wild
sand dunes of the Alberoni, recognized and
protected by the WWF since 1997, are the perfect
place for a quick swim. The area comprises 160
hectares of land, including two kilometers of
golden sand dunes that extend from Murazzi to
the Alberoni dam, and a beautiful pine forest. For
a natural beach experience, the Lido also offers
several free beaches, like the sandy dunes of San
Nicolò, the rocky outcrops of the Murazzi, or the
beach known to the Venetians as ‘Bluemoon”.
The Excelsior Venice Hotel
Among other attractions, the area is home to
an exclusive golf club set against a stunning
backdrop of umbrella pines and poplars. Founder
of the famous automotive house and an avid
fan of Venice, Henry Ford commissioned the
course in 1926, when he discovered to his
disappointment that there was nowhere else
where he could play golf, a sport widely practiced
in America, but not in Italy at that time.
WHERE TO GO - Moving to the other end of
the island, we find Malamocco, a small, ancient
town that offers visitors a mini experience of
Venice with its canals, ‘campielli’ and ancient
buildings. Also dating back to olden times, in a
more northerly direction, is the settlement of San
Nicolò, featuring a Benedictine complex built in
the 11th century.
WHAT TO DO - Don’t miss a walk, or even
better, a bike ride along the Murazzi, the
remains of ancient fortresses which are now
used as a race track. Bicycles are provided by
several of the island’s hotels. If you happen to
be there at the right time, you will be treated to
a breathtaking sunset. What’s more, you’ll also
get a glimpse of a wilder, more untamed side of
Venice, amidst the boats and fishermen searching
for clams.
One of the island’s rituals, that you should not
miss is having a ‘spritz’: the Venetian cocktail
or aperitivo par excellence. You won’t have any
trouble finding one at any bar on the Gran Viale,
the Lido’s promenade. If you’re not pressed for
time you can catch a boat from the Gran Viale to
Pellestrina (where you can eat fabulously fresh
fish, or a sandwich with fried sardines), or travel to
Chioggia, a second, smaller Venice that abounds
in fabulous small restaurants.
J o i n us fo r a n unfo r g e t t a b l e e xp e r ien ce in Ven ice
... A sk on ly f or th e Be st S e r v i c e !
lnternational Limousine Service
is the exclusive ticket resale point for the
Gran Teatro La Fenice and the Arena of Verona
w w w.i n te r n a ti o n a l l i m o u si n e .it
Piazzale Roma 496 I-L T: +39 041 5221867
w w w. w heretravel er. com  61
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S. Servolo
INO
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Top in Town
CAL
BASILICA DI SAN MARCO

PONTE DEI SOSPIRI

CANAL GRANDE

SCALA CONTARINI DEL BOVOLO

TEATRO LA FENICE

CHIESA AND SCUOLA GRANDE DI SAN ROCCO

PALAZZO DUCALE

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
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
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Teatro la Fenice
Santa Maria
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Palazzo
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San Salvador
TEATRO
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LOCANDE
CALLE
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CAFETIER
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RIO
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Palazzo
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CALLE
CALLE
CAMPO
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SANTO STEFANO
CORTE
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SANTA
San Giovanni
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CAMPO
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San Giacomo
di Rialto
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Teatro
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CHIESA
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Santi Apostoli
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Museo
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IA
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LA
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CALLE
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Palazzo
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DE
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Gallerie
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San Simeon
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FO
SA
People Mover Venezia
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Sant'Andrea
Rio Nuovo
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Ca' Pesaro
Galleria Internazionale
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Palazzo
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DE
D
CALLE
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CAMPO
SANTA MARIA
MATER DOMINI
SAN
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Palazzo
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Accademia
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N
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S.Stae
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Santa Maria
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Palazzo Grioni
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di S. Polo
San Tomà
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FISOLA
LARGA
NA
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DEL
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MEZO
CAMPO
CAMPO
SAN TOMÀ
S. Samuele
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C.
DE
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CAMPO
DEI FRARI
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CALLE
CHIESA
CA
SAN BOLDO
CALLE
ZANE
CALLE
Palazzo Balbi
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AL
DELLA
LE
ALE
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TOMÀ
CAMPO
DEI
SQUELINI
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DD
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ND
ST
L
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MA
La Maddalena
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RIO
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Santa Maria
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IA
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Giudecca Hilton
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FO
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Palazzo Nani
TR
People Mover Venezia
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Stazione di Venezia Santa Lucia
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CAMPO
NAZARIO
SAURO
CALLE ORSETTI
DE
LA
RAMO
de
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CALLE
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CAMPO
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RIO
nde
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BARI
LISTA
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CALLE
C.
CAMPAZZO DE
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RAMO
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Angelo
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[ O N LY AT P R E M I E R E H O T E L S ]
Where Venice Magazine
5 STAR DELUXE (L) & 5 STAR
Aman Canal Grande Venice Resort Hotel – San Polo, 1364
(Calle Tiepolo Baiamonte) • E4
Baglioni Hotel Luna – San Marco, 1243 • F5
Bauer Palazzo (L) – San Marco, 1459 • F5
Belmond Hotel Cipriani (L) – Giudecca, 10 • F6
Boscolo Venezia – Cannaregio, 3500 (Fondamenta Madonna
dell’Orto) • E2
Ca’ Sagredo (L) – Campo Santa Sofia, 4198/99 • E3
Excelsior Venice (L) – Lungomare Marconi, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map
JW Marriott Venice Resort & Spa (L) – Isola delle Rose – (Laguna
di San Marco) • Off Map
Hilton Molino Stucky (L) – Giudecca, 810 • C6
Metropole – Riva degli Schiavoni, 4149 • G4
Palazzina G – San Marco, 3247 • D4
Palazzo Venart – S. Croce, 1961 (Calle Tron) • E3
Palladio Hotel & SPA – Giudecca, 33 • F5
San Clemente Palace Kempinski (L) – Isola di San Clemente, 1
• Off Map
SINA Centurion Palace – Dorsoduro, 173 • F5
4 STAR AND LUXURY RESIDENCES
A La Commedia – San Marco, 4596 • E4
A Tribute to Music – Castello, 4127 • F4
Ai Due Principi – Castello, 4972 (Fondamenta De Losmarin) • G5
Ai Mori d’Oriente – Cannaregio, 3319 (Fondamenta Sensa) • E2
Best Western Biasutti Hotel – Via Dandolo, 29 – (Lido) • Off Map
Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4488 (Calle Goldoni) • F4
Bucintoro – Castello, 2135/a • H5
Ca Maria Adele – Dorsoduro, 111 • E5
Ca’ Nigra Lagoon Resort – Santa Croce, 927 • D3
Carlton On The Grand Canal – Santa Croce 578 • C3
Cavalletto & Doge Orselo – San Marco, 1107 (Sotoportego del
Cavalletto) • F4
Colombina – Castello, 4416 (Calle del Remedio) • F4
Concordia – San Marco, 367 (Calle Larga San Marco) • F4
Continental – Cannaregio, 166 (Rio Terà Lista di Spagna) • D3
Duodo Palace – San Marco, 1887/1888 (Calle Minelli) • D3
Foscari Palace – Cannaregio, 4200/1/2 (Campo Santa Sofia) • E3
Le Boulevard – Granviale S. Maria Elisabetta, 41 – (Lido) • Off Map
Liassidi Palace – Castello, 3405 (Ponte dei Greci) • G4
Locanda Vivaldi – Castello, 4150/52 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4
Londra Palace – Castello, 4171 (Riva degli Schiavoni) • G4
L’Orologio Venezia – San Polo, 1777 (Riva del l’Ogio) • E3
NH Collection Palazzo Barocci –San Marco, 3878/A
(Corte dell’Albero) • E4
Palace Bonvecchiati – San Marco, 4680 (Calle dei Fabbri) • F4
Palazzetto Madonna – San Polo, 2902 • D4
Palazzetto Pisani Boutique Resort – San Marco, 2814 • E5
Palazzo Giovanelli – S+an Polo, 2070 (Campo San Stae) • E3
Palazzo Paruta – San Marco, 3824 • E4
Palazzo Stern – Dorsoduro, 2792/A • D5
Pesaro Palace – Cannaregio, 3935 (Calle Ca’ D’oro) • E3
Rialto – San Marco, 5149 (Riva del Ferro) • F4
Royal San Marco – Santa Croce, 578 • F4
Ruzzini Palace – Castello, 5866 (Campo di Santa Maria Formosa) • F4
San Marco Palace – Piazza San Marco, 875 • F4
Santa Marina – Castello, 6068 (Calle Seco Marina) • F4
Saturnia & International – San Marco, 2399 • E5
SINA Palazzo Sant’Angelo – San Marco, 3878/B – 3488 • E4
Starhotels Splendid Venice – San Marco, 760 (San Marco
Mercerie) • F4
Torre Dell’ Orologio - San Marco Luxury Venice – San Marco,
288 • F4
Una Hotel Venezia – Cannaregio, 4173 (Ruga Do Pozzi) • F3
Villa Laguna – Via Sandro Gallo, 6 – (Lido) • Off Map
Villa Pannonia – Via Doge Michiel, 48 – (Lido) • Off Map
ONLY
IN THE ROOMS
OF
THE BEST
HOTELS
and online
OUT OF TOWN
5 STAR DELUXE (L) AND 5 STAR
Abano Grand Hotel (L) – Via Valerio Flacco, 1 - Abano Terme (Pd)
Grand Hotel Trieste & Victoria – Via Pietro D’Abano, 1 – Abano
Terme (Pd)
Hotel Due Torri Abano – Via Pietro D’abano, 18 – Abano Terme (Pd)
Hotel Terme Miramonti – Piazza Roma, 19 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd)
4 STAR AND LUXURY RESIDENCES
Alexander – Via Forte Marghera , 193/C – Mestre (Ve)
Antony Hotel – Via Orlanda, 182 – Mestre (Ve)
Antony Palace Hotel – Via E. Mattei, 26 – Marcon (Ve)
Best Western Hotel Airvenice – Via G. Pascoli, 1 – Quarto d’Altino
(Ve)
Best Western Hotel Bologna – Via Piave, 214 – Mestre (Ve)
Best Western Plus Quid Hotel Venice Airport – Via Terraglio, 15
– Mestre (Ve)
Best Western Titian Inn Hotel Venice Airport – Via Orlanda,
240/244 – Tessera (Ve)
Courtyard by Marriott Venice Airport – Via Triestina, 170 –
Tessera (Ve)
Hilton Garden Inn Venice Mestre San Giuliano – Via Orlanda, 1
– Mestre (Ve)
Hotel Garden Terme – Corso delle Terme, 7 – Montegrotto Terme (Pd)
Hotel La Residence & Idrokinesis – Via Monte Ceva, 8 – Abano
Terme (Pd)
Hotel Terme Metropole – Via Valerio Flacco, 99 – Abano Terme (Pd)
Hotel Tritone Terme – Via A. Volta, 31 – Abano Terme (Pd)
NH Laguna Palace – Viale Ancona, 2 – Mestre (Ve)
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IN N DO
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