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THE FORBIDDEN FRUIT OR THE TASTE FOR SODOMY IN RENAISSANCE ITALY LAURA GIANNETTI RUGGIERO In medieval and Renaissance Italian literary texts, the immoderate desire for food {la gola) for two male-male sins, is often associated and sometimes equated with the desire sex, labelled gluttony and lust "sodomy" Saint Augustine in his Confessions, same discussion carnal pleasures for where they appear one him include both lust, especially condemnation of both the sin of Florence {Purg. 23:97-1 lust in various 1 Pulci, and —supports —during this dared to show their breasts on the forms — {novelle), in the as the — motive for comic play the Decameron, mock-heroic finally in the sixteenth-century in some 1 With poem Morgante by of recipes and advice for good the term "sodomy" in this context intercourse. The term periods to categorize between women, is I are fifteenth- Luigi burlesque poetry of Francesco Berni and his followers, the Accademia dei Vignaiuoli. In his Voluptate, a collection his view in the 1). represented in Renaissance culture: in century short stories sodomy, and immod- of gluttony, attributed to Forese Donati, and women who of licentious Florentine Gluttony and after the other in and drink. Even the pilgrim Dante encounter with his friend Forese in Purgatory streets In medieval times the Augustine, Confessions, book X, xxx-xxxi). Indeed, (S. erate desire for food 1 Church and unequivocally condemned by writings of the Fathers of the the at the time. and/or sodomy, were closely intertwined in the refer to De Honesta living, written in the male-male sex primarily as anal an umbrella that was used in Medieval and Renaissance all men and men and women and/or forms of homoerotic behaviour between as well as anal and oral sex between sexual intercourse with animals. In sixteenth-century Italy to engage in male- male sodomy was not an exclusive tions with women and was practice; often it did not preclude sexual related to age (old-young) and rela- a hierarchical (active- The Boundaries of Eros, chap. VI, for fourand fifteenth-century prosecution of sodomy in Venice and the chapter passive) structure. See Ruggiero, teenth- "Marriage, Love, Sex and Renaissance Civic Morality" for the age/hierarchical structure. See also Giannetti Michel Rocke, Culture." and Ruggiero, "Introduction." For Florence see the essay "Gender and Sexual Forbidden Friendships and A valuable analysis of the homoerotic sexual environment in sixteenth- century Italy and Siena Quaderni is in Ian Frederick d'italianistica, Moulton, "Introduction." Volume XXVII, No. 1, 2006, 31 — Laura Giannetti Ruggiero second half of fifteenth-century, the humanist Bartolomeo Sacchi known as Platina expresses what might be labelled a more balanced vision where moderation and wisdom take part enjoyment of food and sex book I). ple of Right Pleasure for all merely a tie of gluttony and literary topos: first, Roman worlds. 2 tellingly prohibit innkeepers the unspeakable sin of A century later, did not disappear nor was lust it was acknowledged by the Florentine com- it 1322 that statutes of commit 159). 3 the Health, the literary play and humanistic searching for a classical men and culinary delights because they could attract to flesh, in and Good attention to the idealistic princi- moderation derived from the Greek and balance, the sinful munal On much (Platina, In this work, Platina paid Still, of the in the "honest pleasure" from serving up boys and incite them sodomy (Rocke, Forbidden Friendships, sermons, Bernardino da Siena similarly con- in his demned good food and wine as fomenters of carnal lust and especially of sodomy. During Cosimo the Elder's regime Florentine Archbishop Antonino Pierozzi warned against wake of several Antoninus) St (later sloth, excess — in food and drink his manual confessor's as causes of sodomy. 4 In the preachers' admonitions, Florentine authorities at the end of the fifteenth-century began to regulate strictly the hours of operation for inns and taverns in order to avoid their becoming sodomites (Rocke, Forbidden Friendships, 159). a widely shared vision at the time that pleasures of sex — particularly sodomy During the sixteenth-century, a meeting place for There seems to have been saw the pleasures of eating and the — as closely and dangerously related. in the popular imagination of the vari- ous Lands of Cockcaigne, the enjoyment of capons, partridges and roasted hand with the enjoyment of sex. 5 In Carnivalesque celebrations, where often the greasy pole (the tree of Cockaigne) was at the center stage, the sausage was the symbol of sexual and gustatory pleasure. 6 meats went hand in ^See Montanari, La fame e l'abbondanza, for the distinction between the ideal of moderation in food and the Celtic-Germanic ideal the Franks •^See also p. —of excess, (30-32). 305, n. ed meats, ravioli, 64 for the fish, meat list of such foods: in aspic, — later "tortelli, liverwort, spleen, roast- chicken or any kind of birth..." 4 "imperochè come dice Idio per Ezechiele propheta, da ben mangiare fu causata la ribalderia de -'Albala, Sodoma" Antonino Roman assumed by e ben bere di Firenze, Opera, fol. 65. Eating Right in the Renaissance, 181. This seminal book has been crucial in the writing of this article. "Starting with the painting "Land of Cockaigne" by Pieter Bruegel, the sausage was one of the most represented sexual symbols sixteenth to the eighteenth-century. — 32 — in European paintings from the — The Forbidden Fruit In Pulci's Morgante the minor-giant Margutte extolled his three vices gluttony, sodomy and the play of dice — — parody of cardinal as a perverse comedies virtues^ In Italian Renaissance set in times of recurrent famines and wars - the theme of gluttony joined up with that of hunger and vation. If servants died of parasites hunger in Ruzante's star- comedies, in other texts the were always on the lookout for sumptuous dinners and sodomit- ical pleasures. In comedies, dialogues and especially poetry produced in fifteenth and sixteenth-century Italy the language started to register the idea that glut- tony and sodomy were closely related to each other. The usage of the words ghiotto is and ghiottone present in works as a — to noun and as quote a few an adjective to indicate a sodomite —by Lorenzo de' Medici, Lorenzo di Anton Francesco Grazzini, Francesco Maria Molza, Francesco Berni and others. 8 To focus on comedy, the word ghiotFilippo Strozzi, Pietro Aretino, tone (glutton) or simply ghiotto (gluttonous) cally to male characters portrayed associated with pedants, parasites esting is the use Pietro Aretino Marescalco. ish use of Latin, is to refer stereotypi- sodomites; a stereotype also often as and young made of There the pedant, with was used servants. 9 Particularly inter- who makes — probably grande bouffe," and Palma, la who has a diffi- continuous fun of him. The lan- guage used by the pedant to insult the young page 'See Garrido, "Le thème de // ignorance and fool- portrayed as the stereotypical sodomite cult relationship with a page comedy these terms in his his typical learned one-time his "Of Courtesans, Knights," 40. o Jean Toscan shows with several examples graph 237 "Le gourmand" under the voice "Porcellio who ghiotto. 1: how widespread the usage was. See para- 410-412, and quotations romano" (presumably Nicolò Porcellio, Glossary listed in the Matteo Bandello (1485-1561) narrates a tale on humanist, historian and poet lived in the fifteenth-century at the court of Francesco Sforza in Milan) using food metaphors to talk about Porcellio's notorious passions of the According to Bandello, Porcellio loved cibo" and, at the natural thing: trastullarmi " con moment Oh, i of his "la final confession, justified his vice as the oh, padre reverendo, voi fanciulli a me è flesh. carne del capretto molto più che altro non mi più naturale che non è most sapeste interrogare. il mangiar e il ber a Il 1' mi domandavate se io peccava contro natura. Andate, andate, non sapete che cosa sia un buon boccone." (emphasis mine) Bandello, Novelle, 149 and 155. uomo, e voi messere, che voi -Tor instance, see the usage of this word and zo by the Venetian writer Lodovico Dolce: II. 3, p. 234 "ghiottarella"; IV. 1, p. 266 : its variations in the II. 1 p. 226 "Ah "Ghiotto." — 33 — comedy II ragaz- ghiotto, ribaldello"; — Laura Giannetti Ruggiero sexual partner — word includes the ghiotticulo (or glutton-ass). The 10 and ghiotto word last is revealing variation of its used frequently in the com- an insult to indicate someone eager to be sodomized. The more gen- edy as eral term ghiotto recurs in dialogues and in homoerotic associations its in other texts such contemporary burlesque poetry. The term ghiotto appears at times in Florentine criminal records and in the depositions given by informers to the tracy dedicated to the suppression of is as also common especially magis- Ufficiali di Notte, the sodomy; the primary word used to refer to the young boys who prostituted themselves was ghiotti along with some other derogatory feminine names (Rocke, Forbidden Friendships, 107 and 288 n. 100). The extensive usage of the terms ghiotto and ghiottone m literary texts, in the judiciary system and in the everyday world takes part in and contributes practices as an view homoerotic to a set of cultural assumptions that immoderate ate desire for food. Jean desire in Toscan many ways equated more offers a to the immoder- precise genealogy for this usage of the word: If these particular erotic practices or the part practices take place ghiottone those my The who may be called bocconi, it is of the body where such normal to call ghiotto or seek them. (Toscan, Le Carnaval du langage, 1: 411; translation). negative conceptual link between gluttony and lust was not lim- ited to law, literature, and everyday language; it also found support medical-dietetic genre that captured widespread interest —although out own — teenth-century on. Written mainly by physicians poets and artists were also interested in laying in the from the mid-fifphilosophers, their particular view of the ideal dietary regime and nutritional choices these works were above prescriptive all Even though adopted it is and their general theoretical clear that most of in everyday practice, literature of the Renaissance should be regarded Among the as it is — framework was Galenic. this prescriptive literature important to recognize that the dietary like prescriptive literature an embodiment of a range of cultural dominant dietetic theories who ate it its in general ideals. 11 of the early Renaissance, the concept of transference was especially important: quality of an animal or of was not it held that a peculiar organs would be transferred to the person or them. For instance, if one ate a wolf's liver, associated with See Five Comedies from the Italian Renaissance. 166, n. 139 For a discussion on food in literary texts of the Renaissance and the medicaldietetic literature, see Palma, "Of Courtesans, — 34 — Knights." The Forbidden Fruit would become courageous; courage, one would recover his lost virility if one one ate bull's testicles, Eating Right, 79-80 and 169). (Albala, According to Platina, the consumption of pork, the meat of an omnivo- would rous and greedy animal, lead to the transformation of one into a rav- enous ghiottone unable to distinguish between good and bad food. 12 Other authors — recommended not eating goat — a "notoriously" lascivious animal so as to maintain chastity (Albala, Eating Right, 80 — based on texts, however to be consumed became for help with Venus's work; a very successful genre in 168). For instance, all and 149-50). Other —suggested which food ought same theory the itself. this "aphrodisiac" literature 146-50 and (Albala, Eating Right, foods that were seen as warming the body and the blood, from asparagus to artichokes, from cloves to pigeons and partridges, as well as all salty 147-8). foods were considered aphrodisiacs (Albala, Eating Right, Sometimes physicians coming from far regions with also associated rare illicit and "often sex and expensive foods explicitly connected per- The verse tastes in food with sexual license." (Albala, Eating Right, 150). transference theory century, but ic meanings Social it would remained lose force common to different types to attribute somatic effects and symbol- of foods. symbolism was important writers, certain foods by the second half of the sixteenth as well: in the eyes were appropriate only for certain of these dietetic classes. Peasants should eat rustic grains and preserved meat, while birds, fresh meats, or seafood were suitable only for gentlemen and courtiers. fruit As has been widely discussed, food was a significant factor in social evaluation and was especially true in Italy during the Renaissance —with this a strong social hierarchy and great differences between urban and rural cultures (Grieco, "Food and desire Social Classes"). by the upper and behaviour and ners Such distinctions were classes to distinguish closely related to the themselves through specific to a hierarchical vision of the man- world that saw it as one "great chain of being" that progressed upwards from the humblest of things to the food, plants most important. According to this conception as applied to ordered a place on a hierarchical ladder — and animals occupy according to the four elements — on the top mythological animals (such as the phoenix), and at its base the that has living in the highest element, fire ^Albala, Eating Right, 168. In the original Latin: "Hoc animal edacissimum et ob hanc rem sanguine multum ac calore abundat. Ulignosa tur libenter, incolit ad reprimendum calorem. [...] pulmentaria ex porco nuper caeso, ut adeps caro etsi gustum Platina, On titillât, perniciosa Right Pleasure, tamen omnino Book ii, 162. — 35 — est, loca, ubi volute- Colliguntur item multa ad suilla tarn recens est ac mali succi, ut quam ait salita; Celsus." Laura Giannetti Ruggiero humblest plants that grow directly in the soil (such as (Grieco, "Food and Social Classes," 307-12). thought to connect all being products of the The onions and garlic) great chain of being was God's creation in one design. Roots and legumes, bottom of ones that peasants at the God and were the farthest from soil, thus the only society could eat. Because fruit trees were closer to the sky with their branches, and so distanced themselves from the the lowest of the four elements, fruit could be a food worthy soil, An of nobles. 13 interesting literary transposition of these assumptions can be read in a fifteenth-century short story grow to resist the succulent peaches that Zuco peasant Padella servant's deeper my of fit of his master, the in the garden caught in the act of stealing them to is Unable satisfy his crime warning him: "The next time stay away from the peers and stick with yours: turnips, garlic, leeks, onions, and with sorghum bread." 14 shallots along If degli Adenti. punishing him harshly, his master haughtily underlines the desire. After fruit by Sabadino peaches are exalted in this novella as a delicious and refined for a king, several physicians who wrote about fruit, dietetics in the sixteenth century condemned them harshly along with melons and strawberries. Following the concept of the "great chain of being", and strawberries were condemned ly on the it is melons at least in part because they grow direct- but the low opinion of peaches does not seem to soil, Curiously, while fruit in general was viewed as the noblest produced by clear that among fit. the foods were often considered poisonous. 15 plants, peaches themselves -'Michele Savonarola confirms this view reminding his Lord "la utilità e malicia del nutrimento de marnano. le cosse che nascano in terra." Libreto de tute Un'altra volta lassa stare le fructe de li mei rape, gli agli, porri, cepolle e le scalogne col ed in Montanari, La fame see e •^Botfi Platina fruit. translata nome nata cum Platina, habent. Sero id res apud maxime vero quidem factum et cum Persas gigni, et ob earn rem quos armis vincere non poterat, veneno The che sono novella is le quot- modem critical edition in Perside difficultate, as unde ad nos verum postea a Cyro inde ad Aegyptios saltern necaret. Confingunt verosimilior videatur Aegyptio sole et caelo deinde mitigata fuisse." Right Pleasure, che'l persico in Persia era non venenosa, cosse, delle tue Basile. "Persica tota Asia nascuntur cruciatu On mangia di sorgo." sponte proveniunt. Fabulas mihi narrare videntur qui scribunt vene- translata, ut item quo che se and Savonarola report the very similar legend about peaches poisoned fere pari e pan l'abbondanza, 108-109. For a Le Porretane ed. by Bruno ubique le cosse 62-3. I: di book II, 148. "Ma prima voglio tua Signoria sapia arbor venenosa, dapoi fu traslatata in Egypto e fata fue che comprehenda tua Signoria." Savonarola, Libreto de tute 62. — 36 — le The Forbidden Fruit many of these In peaches are included texts, among more aphrodisiac foods and for gluttonous courtiers, such as eels, oysters, salmon, asparagus fit Melons shared artichokes (Albala, Eating Right, 206). pany and enjoyed warned that negative fame in widely circulated folk tales and popes had passed away on melons. tagruelic dinners based 16 after eating pan- and In fact, in the works of physicians nothing was considered more dangerous for one's virtually dieticians, more a yet that even kings unhappy com- this and melons because of health than eating peaches their ability to putrefy the stomach and thus create venomous humours. Only the most coura- in geous doctors were willing to allow their charges to eat peaches or melons — one could not if of the meal so resist the temptation —but then only beginning at the The have a chance to avoid the putrefaction problem. as to condemnation of melons was so widespread Bologna, Pietro Nati, felt that a from physician the need to defend the fruit in a small treatise he wrote about the more general topic of health during times of plague. Nati observed that melons were no longer poisonous —and time that they were regularly Nati's study is consumed interesting because it — as they were in Galen's at courtier's tables. how shows and dietary practice precepts did not always coincide: melons, peaches, and other types of fruit were, in houses. enjoyed during meals and receptions offered fact, 17 Yet, for others, like the Venetian nobleman Luigi Cornaro, the medical taboo was apparently followed. After having been man, he decided to test for himself if foods that tasted ^Savonarola, Libreto de is tute le cosse, 75-76. repeated in different treatises from Bertaldi: "I ità, che gli The same tanto dessiderati grandi, che molti sono morti, per il ill young as a good were equally prescription against melons Platina to the meloni, quando sono maturi a sufficienza convengono, sono gentlemen's at e much later da molti Prencipi, superfluo uso Lodovico che hanno tutte d'essi, le qual- e altri Signori come riferisce il Durando i.e. Castor Durante] ch'Albino imperatore tanto avido di mangiarne, come ancor delle persiche, che in una sera mangiò dieci meloni d'Ostia e cento persiche. Paulo Secondo Pontefice, morì d'apoplesia, havendo nella cena man[ Henrico settimo giato due gran meloni. Dicono Federico ondo imperatorii esser morti per l'uso d'essi. "Regole della sanità e natura decibi di Ugo Benzo Senese, fol. mente et allo coruttibili, e si essi le proprietà loro, li biasimano come nocivi stomacho, perciò diceva Galeno che e sono freddi, humidi, quali cose nel vero esperienza e Alberto sec- 422. /"Oltre a questo narrando corpo terzo, che mangiandone dispongono non si lo possono già dire de Poponi stomacho al vomito, nostri, conciosia al facille che per vegga, mangiarsene nelle tavole de gentil'huomini in gran quantità e continuare le settimane e i mesi interi senza passare ne mangino. "Breve discorso intorno alla mai un giorno che natura del popone," — 37 — 2. e' non Laura Glannetti Ruggiero good was often claimed for his health, as popular in he was convinced that the popular lore was he decided that he liked right: were not their pleasant taste, While doing liked very fruit at all this [test] I Through lore. and cold wine but that good they, despite for his health: found out that that claim was much rough and practice and the medical taboo false false, because I very cold wine as well as melons and other fruit... 18 Luigi Cornaro's experiments confirmed his decision to live a Still if restrained many attracted tispieces renouncing peaches and melons, those succulent life others and drew of many sumptuous cookbooks Messisbugo —where courtiers are —such shown as that in the act by Christopharo da of offering them to their princes (Albala, Eating Right, 13). In Messisbugo's tion of fruits attention to themselves from the fron- book there is no men- any physician's negative advice; melons and peaches appear at dif- moments during banquets, often together with other types of food deemed dangerous. 19 As Jean Louis Flandrin has demonstrated, around the ferent end of the sixteenth-century dietetics and cookbooks took different paths: was the beginning of the so-called "liberation of the gourmet" and the it enjoyment of good cooking (Flandrin, " From rejected certain foods not only because they also because they Gastronomy") Dietetics to This separation, however, progressed slowly and texts that moralistically were bad for the health but were identified with the corrupt habits of the court con- tinued to proliferate. 20 Medical-dietetic literature of the sixteenth-century was closely attuned to and contributed to the process that, in labelled the "civilization of taste." Norbert (Albala, Elias's vision, "Però mi posi diligentissimamente à voler conoscere i che mi giovassero, ò pur io anzi è fossero di che fossero a mio cibi, proposito, e prima deliberai di farne sperienza, se quelli che mi al nocumento, per conoscere gusto piacevano se quel havea già tenuto per vero, e che verissimo universalmente il fondamento di tutti i sensuali, che vero, che dice che quello che sa che era falso, perchè a e gl'altri frutti." De me il seguono buono, notrisce has been Eating Right, 217-218). As i si proverbio crede che sia loro appetiti, era in fatto e giova. Il che facendo vin brusco e freddissimo sapea bono, e così i ritrovai meloni la vita sobria, e. 8. ^Messisbugo, "Banchetti, composizioni di vivande et apparecchio generale." See for instance the works by the Calvinist expatriate Guglielmo Grataroli where courts rule. Albala, are chastised as die place where Eating Right, 26. — 38 — sloth, gluttony and perverse taste The Forbidden Fruit noted, the diffusion of books on dietetics where the prevalent attitude was works written moralistic was relatively recent in that century. In earlier only a few foods were openly condemned; restrictions hinged on moderation. as The natural attraction for certain foods guiding principles. With even be seen its and their good taste were seen pleasant taste, fruit in moderation could as therapeutic in this context. One possible explanation for the changing attitude of sixteenth-century writers with respect to melons, that conceptions of body, pleasure, peaches and other fruits changed along the lines suggested is by Elias. Foods that had and food qualities that were similar to humours deemed positive were nutritious and foods that were different were restricted to correcting humoral imbalances. For teenth-century authors, however, there as a key factor in dietary decisions is a shift to repression —hunger and good taste are six- of instincts no longer a positive signs of the body's humoral or other needs, but rather potential temptations in a moral battle waged over controlling the desires of the body and its good, tastes appetites. as One should eat what was no longer to correct imbalances, but this taste is good for health, not Cornaro already affirmed. Food could be used to be controlled as a by desire and but by doctors and experts in health both physical and now Certain foods, delicious and physical and mental tempting, could illnesses, sexual perversion, of suspect foods included fruit this list all now what medicine spiritual. lead inevitably to even death. Along with those that like sweets, fat meats or sausages were portrayed in carnivalesque representations where they symbolized gustatory and sexual license and lower-class Eating Right, 180-181). tastes (Albala, important to remember, however, that these It is foods were regularly served during upper class banquets, appeared in cook- books, and were consumed by people of Italian much fruit at fruit. meals even as in their everyday meals. remarked on the richness and abundance British travelers in Italy often they referred to the dangers of eating too William Cecil received from his son's tutor, before his leaving for Italy, the following warning: It is to be feared that Mr. Thomas country, and being given ness, as shall also to eat not bear the great heats of that much fruit, may soon fall into sick- he did in France by that occasion (Olsen, "Poisoned Figs," 236) William Thomas, one of the first English historians of admitted to having been converted to eating renouncing the heavy meat-based diet of Italy, actually fruit after living in Italy, his native country (Olsen, "Poisoned Figs," 240). Melons also particularly attracted him, but he warned his readers to abstain from eating them during the summer when — 39 — Laura Giannetti Ruggiero they were ripe and sweetness full even observed ambiguously that their no one can so attractive that is many that they die Thomas know the He of juice. as a result (Olsen, resist and some even it eat so "Poisoned Figs," 247) Did William medical proscriptions? His words and those of other British travelers in sixteenth-century Italy stress the conflict between the prohibition of such "dangerous" foods and the everyday experience of ing and eating and theory seem Practice The insistence ic ideal to build a dietet- many ways as its rejection in life. It these foods was taboo. Peaches as being as significant in has been hypothesized that the stronger the prohibition of at the dangerous and as to diverge profoundly, then, in this period. on prohibition and the on-going attempt must be seen everyday liv- in Italy. time illicit — — as strange food, as food and melons came food fit became the the stronger originally from only for courtiers, desire to break the Persia and from the Middle East, lands of fabled beauty, abundance and corrupt customs, lands often associated in popular belief with sodomy; thus their fruits could be 21 Nonetheless, seen as a sort of suspicious food right from their origins. is interesting to note that the taboo against these fruits grew in close it con- junction with a growing market for such food, the fashion of having fruit trees and gardens and in Renaissance villas a general higher level of con- sumption. 22 Literature, however, might suggest a deeper and more compelling reason yet for aversion to these fruits in the Renaissance the strange disjunction between practice erature es, saw a great contemporary enemy and and also help to explain theory. For while dietetic in forbidden fruits, especially literature lit- melons and peach- used those and other food images to represent and celebrate the forbidden fruits 21 Rosenberger, "Arab Cuisine and sexuality, illicit sex of Renaissance and Contributions to European Culture": "Arab Baghdad from afar: melons packed in ice and along with prized Damascus grapes and plums. The Its princes ordered fruit brought to shipped in lead containers, Middle East was apparently the the Greeks these species cot [...] original home of a number of species known and Romans. The Arabs played the important and making them known over a wide area. and the peach, which was soon acclimatized we have about antiquity, the diffusion of citrus fruit is What as sweet, refreshing treats." 219. zz Flandrin, "Introduction: The Early Modern Period." — 40 — apri- information The melon known was joined by the watermelon, which came from India. widely cultivated to of improving These include the in Iran. unreliable. role since Both were The Forbidden Fruit especially sodomy. The so-called paradoxical encomium was the preferred poetic form used by Francesco Berni and his followers. In an everyday simple object, food, or even an unpleasant syphilis — with played wittily metaphors. 23 The upon and drew erotic poetry of Francesco the praise of it, illness —such obscene or erotic as Giovanni Mauro, Berni, Agnolo Firenzuola, Giovanni Della Casa, Annibal Caro, and a much wider circle of their followers, the Accademia Anton Francesco Grazzini, dei Vignaiuoli, delighted especially in playing with the interchangeability of those forbidden fruits and the bodily parts they represented and then in the way this metaphorical interchangeability could be used to describe the pleasures of sodomy. The Accademia dei Vignaiuoli originated in humanists and poets first earlier founded by Pomponio Leto and the poets 1532 from a group of gathered in the Accademia in the that took part in the most noted classics —were and who wrote accomplished humanists classical of Boccaccio's Decameron. An that was Francesco Berni Accademia dei Vignaiuoli, from Agnolo Firenzuola to Giovanni Della Casa and Annibal Caro all Romana fifteenth-century. 24 — to cite only the who knew Latin and the poems, comedies, and novelle in imitation invitation to a ludic style of life that will be attached to the Accademia dei Vignaiuoli is anticipated in a letter written by Francesco Berni to Francesco Bini in 1529: We must live until we die, despite those who don't like tant thing to live happily, as is I is you to do, it, but the impor- by attending those ban- Rome, and by writing quets which are taking place in because this invite as little as you can; the victory, which conquers the world (Frantz, Festum Voluptatis, 26). 25 23ç)n sixteenth-century del Cinquecento ly chapter II: Italian erotic and Longhi, "La cucina poetry see: Marzo, Studi sulla poesia_erotica Lusus. Il capitolo burlesco nel Cinquecento, especial- di Parnaso." On Francesco Berni and his works see Francesco Berni, ed. Nigro. ^On the Accademia de' Vignaiuoli see: Studi sulla poesia erotica, 13-23, Reynolds] 17, 52-53 and the chapter Frantz, Festum Voluptatis, 24-35, Marzo, Renaissance Humanism, by Anne [ed. "Roma 1532-1537: Accademia per burla" pp. 51-64 in Romei, Berni e Berneschi. 25"A vivere havemo fino alla morte a dispetto di chi non vuole: e '1 vantaggio è come conforto a far voi: attendendo a frequentar quelli banchetti, che si fanno per Roma, e scrivendo sopra tutto manco che potete. Quia haec est victoria, quae vincit mundum." Francesco Berni a M.Gio. vivere allegramente, Francesco Bini, Lettere facete e piacevoli di diversi grandi uomini e chiari ingegni, vii, 36-37. — 41 — Laura Giannetti Ruggiero — mocking Another of dedication classical letters letter — written by Berni to Francesco Bini in 1534, could be read as the perfect poetic manifesto of the group; in many enjoy in it Berni salutes senses their gardens and above that you all you his blessing in giving pitchfork as long as a hand and good a the others to the very all Giovanni Della Casa, and to you his friends all and that they good natured Mr. Molza, the Divine Academy. a large Priapus for beam between your will and wishes harvest: legs be bothered neither by Mr. to May God grant your garden, with a and a big scythe in frost, fog, worms your or foul winds, and that you might have beans and peas in their pods and peach- and es carrots year round, as all den here which I I desire for take care of and keep up my own small as much as I and failing gar- can. 26 appears that the poets of Berni's circle amused themselves in ban- It quets both poetic and real, both culinary and sexual, in which we may pre- sume, peaches and melons were consumed despite medical warnings and legal proscriptions. In their poems dedicated to the forbidden fruits there also appears to be a conscious playing with the pedantic side of their humanists. the one hand Berni and his followers touch, the reference to ancient classical showed Roman own avocations as could not resist the or Greek literature that and wit; but, in a way similar to what we find in the comedy tradition based on classical models, humanist writers the same time mock the comic side of the would-be their learning "erudite" could On at humanist/pedant who could not say anything without basing it on a clas- and because of this, often spouted much that was laughable non- sical text sense to the common sense of the day. Much such pedants in like Renaissance comedies, the fifteenth and sixteenth-century corpus of medical-dietetic literature cially trary to also heavily based on ancient auctoritas, espe- gli altri al tutta quella divina il da benissimo Signor Molza, a Academia. Così vostro orto, con che non vi s'accosti vi dia una fuscina mai ne brinata, Dio trabaie fra M. Giovanni grazia di avere gambe mio A una falciazza in si come mano: e pestilente: e desidero d' havere horticciuolo fallito qua giù, che attendo pure a raffazzonarlo quanto posso..." Lettere facete, Frantz. e della Casa, e a un priapone grande ne nebbia, ne bruchi, ne vento habbiate fave e bacelli, e pesche e carote tutto l'anno: io nel how con- contemporary practice or simple everyday understanding, were °"e sopra per was Galen and Hippocrates, authors whose opinions, no matter xii, 46-48. I have slightly modified the translation by Priapus was a phallic boundary marker used in ancient demarcate and protect property. — 42 — Rome to The Forbidden Fruit tirelessly Making fun repeated by one Renaissance author after the other. condemning fruits such as peaches and melons sternly warned which were against in this classical tradition, then, offered another opportunity to mock playfully some of the more extreme characteristics of their own humanist pretensions and at the same time cleverly extol sodomy - both were, in a witty way that was irresistible to Berni and of such humanistic texts word-smiths, formally forbidden his fellow demned sodomy, and melons fruits own right were forbidden by the Church con- to —than — sodomy playfully extol to praise peaches classical dietetic What medical texts reiterated by humanist authors. Renaissance the represented here by peaches and melons, while peaches in their berneschi poets which, in the everyday The law and world, were enjoyed by those in the know. better the forbidden way for the of the sin and melons, the forbidden and fruits of the Renaissance? soon became the most important member of the Berni Francesco Accademia de Vignaiuoli and poets, as clear in the is his leadership beginning lines was recognized by the other of Francesco Maria Molza Capitolo de'fichi: "Di lodare il quando Febo che '1 mellone avea pensato sorrise e fico disse resti Non Però, se di seguir brami che '1 fia vero abbandonato. il sentiero, Bernia corse col cantar suo pria, drizzar quivi lo 'ingegno or fia mestiere" 27 I thought to praise the melon, not be the case that the path / fig will That Berni ran up with here and now. (my / when Febus be neglected" his early / poetry smiled and said: / "It should However, if you wish to follow the / It is necessary to stiffen your wit translation) In the following years, several authors followed the path laid out by Berni and contemporary editors produced numerous collections of this pun-full erotic poetry, a regular ghiottoneria of fruit, sex and sodomy. 28 understand this literature it is ^' Molza, "Capitolo de' Fichi", ^°For a list To helpful to search for "euphemistic substitu- w. 1-6, p. 43. of the most important sixteenth-century collections of erotic and bur- lesque poems, see Marzo, Studi sulla poesia erotica, 7 n. 2. — 43 — Laura Giannetti Ruggiero tions" — as Jean Toscan did in his pioneering and exhaustive study of Italian Renaissance erotic language cultural and —but historical context. examination for For the extensive use of images of forbidden and clear that Berni it is this literature in its fascination with descriptions of fruit in erotic poetry certainly warrants a closer an accident; put also crucially to The rich nuances. its poetry was not fruits in erotic and imitators were well his followers aware of dietetic proscriptions that labelled certain types of fruit dangerous and for one's health lel, at the same time extremely the same was true for sodomy: it desirable. In a neat paral- was desired, forbidden, and frequent- ly practiced. Berni's the delle pèsche, written in 1522, turns on one of uses of peaches in this genre, the metaphor based on the famous Capitolo more popular similar shape and look of a peach and a youth's bottom. In other rounded shape of melons or apples were used in the poems the same way. 29 The Capitolo delle pèsche rejected completely the contemporary medical opinions that held that peaches corrupted the stomach. 30 Son pésche apritive e cordiali, le saporite, gentil, restorative, come le cose hanno e' gli speziali." (Berni, Rime, p. 50, Peaches are aperitifs and cordials aide the stomach and in eating ^See digesting] for instance the "Capitolo di in this poem sodomy sexual practice "[...] Ma steron sul crudele,/ il lor frutto, melo per l'asciutto./ / E si tas is as Dicendo al Dar, per non at first Ha suo fin traggie/ le lor pastocchie sopra il restorative / in lode delle mele." Interestingly male-male poi n'ha posto per fare and translation) son risolute a qualche amico,/ but also mostro al piaggie./ le il De as male-female are called into question: mondo donne al il valor primo Fico;/ Poi ancor esse le han mele, ch'elle han dietro Onde si scorge hoggi Che vanno spesso in barca per loro giardin mendico./ tutto/ Usarsi, e fino a certi trasandati,/ Leggi in Galeno, in Hippocrate, e in tanti/ Altri, che fur dottor di medecina,/ Perchè di questo •*°It Tasty, delicate and the medical authorities of the past Ond ogn'huomo calato le vele/ / (my Andrea Lori understood tempo, ch'ogni cosa '1 delle mele,/ al is the original sense of drinks that [in Just like the products of the apothecary, w. 43-45) io non vo dir più innanzi." interesting to note that Berni actually quotes the triad of medical auctori- of the past saying that "Dioscoride, Plinio e Teofrasto/ non hanno delle pèsche bene/ perché non scritto ne facevano troppo guasto." "X. Capitolo delle pèsche (avanti l'agosto 1522)," pp. 49-51 in Berni, Rime. This excellent edition by Danilo Romei explains all the erotic metaphors in the poems. — 44 — The Forbidden Fruit recommended eating peaches before the meal recommends enjoying them all the dinner. The sexual metaphor is clear: If the learned literature earlier, 31 noted as Berni humorously time, but especially after O frutto sopra gli altri benedetto, buono ma Oh mezzo inanzi, nel inanzi buono most blessed fruit e dietro pasto; e di dietro perfetto!" (Berni, Rime, p. 49, / Good w. 10-12) before the meal, in the middle and behind / But especially good in front and perfect from behind! (my translation) Dietary theories are used by the berneschi poets as a perfect pretext to insist on the healthy quality of verses by Ercole Bentivoglio: Le al men buone nocive, anzi salubri e gusto e a lo stomaco più grate: massime et le che i fichi e le pere pèsche, che si e'l melon piaccion a i preti soglion usar d' ogni stagione. 32 le Fruit that comes with cheese / not bad, actually Is Quite pleasing to the stomach and to the / And as in the following formaggio accompagnate frutte dal son - and sodomy — fruit peaches which priests most love / it is Especially healthy and good pears / and melons taste / And normally use in every season, (my figs, translation) Melons also had their advocates: the poet praised their virtues as leading one O popon degno io mi acciò ti ogni monarchia d' mi scorga per -'I find the Anton Francesco Grazzini good path of sodomy: volto con divote ciglia, la buona via. 33 Melon worthy of every kingdom I'll on to the good path, (my / I look upon you with devotion / So that translation) For instance see Michele Savonarola's advice regarding melons: "Voleno esser manzati in anti pasto, lubricare. il Generano vento perchè manzati dopo pasto fano tute le cosse, 75. Savonarola's opinion, that meal, is il cibo del stomaco e cuossì fanno venire la colica," Savonarola, Libreto de melons should be eaten before the repeated several times by various sixteenth and seventeeth-century authors, for instance Bertaldo, Regole della sanità e natura de' cibi di Ugo Benzo Senese. *^See "Del Formaggio "Quoted in al lettor buon compagno." Toscan, Le Carnaval du langage, 1:511. — 45 — Laura Giannetti Ruggiero The poet Antonio Mario excites nourishes the stomach, refreshes the desires," all Negrisoli happily declared that "the melon and liver, is Ganymede's favourite food. 34 The metaphoric use of peaches and melons can be found early in Italian Lorenzo literature, especially in the canti carnascialeschi. In particular, Medici in "Canzona his degli innestatoti, grafting plants, including peaches — a poem de' dedicated to the act of plays with lengthily descriptions of dif- The anonymous "Canzona most people prefer — between males ferent types of sexual contact females. 35 " between males and as well as delle pèsche" while recognizing that to use peaches after the meal (Tusa dreto") concludes with a general exhortation to enjoy peaches at any time: Alcun ma l'usa al pasto avanti, di noi innanzi e 'ndreto; quel sol piace agl'ignoranti, più parte l'usa dreto: la ognun cheto, l'usi e stiesi 'nanzi o dreto o dove vuole. 36 Some enjoy it keep quiet / it before virtues of peaches that -'Così genti,/ the se in and melons modet n Ma [...] i Alternando chiede,/ e di il come gloria e Poppone it before and after; it / and translation) Con a chi la ha Non Ganimede, honor al huom trova si non / intendo al resto io di largo same group in the / non gran virtù de bianchi il mente accorta e'1 di tutto e sodi, e E meno [...] '1 afferra/ ventre sferra./ buon vino ei se ne Più di questo alcun cibo vero è questo/ nettar, ch'ad ogni gusto il ai lor serra/ la sta- Poppone ogn'huom fegato rinfresca, e il exalt uno Augusto attendo./ humor, ch'entro — fra l'altre sì vii stimi si scorta/ d'un bicchiere di la of sodomy does not demonstrate resto." Negrisoli Ferrarese, si "Capitolo Signor Giuseppe Malatesta." 46: "puossi ogni pianta, e pèsche anche innestare." De'Medici, "IV. Canzona D boccon sempre — bacchetta in mano, e lo conforta,/ e piace/ l'affermò delle laudi del v. (my this fact avertite Signor, ch'io solo due spesso like Just let everybody use / an exclusive sexual practice or cate- voglia invesca./ la tristo fecondi./ stomaco nudrisse, ^See But we Other poems mal rottondi,/ che son gion mia, e d'odor non as poche frondi/ fermo rampollo, spalancati, e a conface/ / after are clearly associated with the idea sense. ch'avendone uno, e fra it written by Bet ni and the Vignaiuoli that extol the Poppone ogn' altra '1 use of male-male sexual practice, but incontinenti. ch'han già Most male sodomy was seen by them gory per lo / Before or after or wherever they prefer, The group of poems in the sense meal [the peach] before the Rude people only enjoy degli innestatori," in Trionfi e canti carnascialeschi. XLIV. Canzona delle pèsche" in Trionfi e canti carnascialeschi, — 46 — w- 15-20. The Forbidden Fruit sex with lus, women speaking in the praise of the or simply laud the phal- figs represented with different images of fruit or vegetables. The poems on peaches and melons nonetheless capture the readers' attention for the privileged place given to the passive side of sodomy, usually considered the least honourable, because of its association with the female sex. In sixteenth-century Italy sodomy was crime against nature, God, and society and worthy of of and such was regularly deemed as punishment. Nonetheless, capital ideally organized in a patriarchal rest held to be a mortal sin and a it theory as well as in everyday society. In were supposed to take the dominant active sought out the peaches and melons teens took the passive role same model was — was widely practiced and hierarchical fashion that mirrored the — reality, role, sexually young adult males and socially — they while younger youths in their early offering peaches regularly presented even as and melons. In it literature the was often mocked in the humanistic student-teacher/pedant relationships in Renaissance comedies. It is interesting to note, however, that even this passive-active hierarchy turned on its head by the irreverent Berni when he concludes peaches by arguing that, "the most fortunate peaches." 37 Is this is he/ who his is poem on can give or take merely a playful reversal or a suggestive indication that the active/passive age hierarchy that was clearly the ideal for Renaissance male/male sexual relations was more flexible than it appears and that some males both desired peaches and offered them, perhaps Berni himself? 38 If -*' "Io it is true that sexuality ho sempre avuto gli altri avventurato is a "discourse" fantasia,/ per sia/ colui — in a Foucaldian sense — that quanto possi un indovino apporre,/ che sopra che può le pèsche dare e tórre." "Capitolo delle pèsche," w.73-76. -'""in fact his that he poem was so taken as an expression of his true preference sexually was charged by his enemies with being a sodomite." Frantz, Festum The Dialogo contra i poeti written by Francesco Berni in 1525 explores, among other topics, the connections between poets and sexuality. He starts by telling Orpheus story's (from the Metamorphoses) charging him first Voluptatis, 30. with the "bella inventione," and then has the interlocutor Sanga poets famous for their preference for of the dialogue Sanga refers to list a group of young boys (w. 206-209). Toward the end some of the most famous capitoli written by Berni Marco whether he Le anguille, Le pesche and La including the Capitolo delle pèsche. Asked by the interlocutor was a poet or not because he wrote poems such as primiera, Berni responds that he did not consider himself a poet because of those works and he did not make enemies mies it just for writing them. If he had made ene- was because he did not concede them homoerotic favors ("Anzi più tosto credo esser voluto male da qualcuno che ara voluto, verbigrazia, pèsche, che sapete piacciono a molti, e non — 47 — gliel'arò ch'i' gli dia le potuto dare così presto, e va Laura Giannetti Ruggiero interacts with contemporary social and cultural practices and discourses, we cannot poets to consider the discursive choices made by Berni and the other be merely accidental. Writing their erotica ghiottoneria, the mocked Vignaiuoli and their imitators which they the cultural humanistic milieu in same time, the popular lived and, at the ism and sodomitical pleasures as strictly belief that saw human- connected. 39 Italian literary criti- cism has recently recognized the centrality of the erotic and homoerotic component in Renaissance poetry worthy of sidered a topic and analysis in literature in general. It own its "serious" issues. 40 mere diversion from more right, not now is con- an occasional as The forbidden fruits of the Renaissance represent often-conflicting beliefs, values and desires expressed by contemporary medical and dietary theory, tice. Yet, at the same time, they served literature, and everyday prac- nicely as a series of Renaissance metaphors that were invested with a rich and playful array of meanings by poets like Berni and his followers. For them, the image of fruits such as peaches and melons was a privileged imagination, and give sodomy concluded, "but everybody coni that ghiotti a site to extol sodomy, play with the more everyday common likes the good morsels," 41 that sense. As Berni the buoni boc- is, and ghiottoni certainly enjoyed. The University ofMiami discorrendo." {Dialogo contra i Can we assume from this literary Or was it just like the poems a literary circles? Or could it have been a self-defence poeti, 212). — — statement that Berni was a sodomite? make fun of humanistic against sodomy prosecution or perhaps instead a covert admission of his preference? The answer lies in further research on Berni and his circle. game -^See to Accademia dei ogni poeta canta/ Più tosto nobil pianta?/ Come Vignaiuoli, i lauri i piene veggiam Giovanni Mauro: pampani le e le spiche,/ Ch'eran così a quella etade amiche/ Così Questo frutto cantar, eh' orna le a modem eh' Che questa gloriosa e De le picciole mente, e de dovremmo noi da mille capi/ mense/ Di Duchi, Regi, Imperatori e Papi,/ Ognun' ne mangia, e non è chi ci pense,/ Et in scriver Son le voglie de' poeti intense,/ I quali dovriano di la testa/ by d'onde vien, carte antiche,/ Priapi,/ d'hedere, o di lauri ornar della fava" "Ma from the "Capitolo Primo for instance the following verses a poet of the sexual le pesche, e gli martelli/ fave e di baccelli/ Alla barba di Cesari e Marcelli." Non w. 31-45. 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