mcarthurglen la reggia designer outlet

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mcarthurglen la reggia designer outlet
NOVEMBER 2015
THE COMPLETE GUIDE TO GO
RECOMMENDED BY
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Fashion,
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ALL YOU
CAN DO
IN THE CITY
MCARTHURGLEN
LA REGGIA
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CONTENTS
The Plan
Let's get started
2 Editor's Note
The Guide
The best of Naples, Coast &
Islands
41
48
4 Hot Dates
The hottest dates in November
to make your stay in Naples an
unforgettable experience
20
SHOPPING
Major shopping areas and our
choice of the best specialty
stores
32
DINING
The top restaurants and
pizzerias recommended by
Where
41
ENTERTAINMENT
How to enjoy your stay in
Naples and on the Coast &
Islands
64 My perfect day
Rosanna Marziale
Interview with the Chef of Le
Colonne restaurant in Caserta
48
Main museum attractions and
must-see exhibitions in Naples
and on the Coast & Islands
14
Also Inside
MUSEUMS &
ATTRACTIONS
46 The Phlegrean Area
by night
54
Unmissable night time
experience: from the thermal
baths to nightspots right up
guided tours of Solfatara and
Rione Terra
OUT OF TOWN
Unmissable out-of-town sights:
welcome to Sannio
58
54 Out of town
ESSENTIALS
Tips for getting around in
Naples, Pompeii, Herculaneum,
Oplonti and on the
Coast&Islands
In discovery of Caserta. From
The Reggia to the Belvedere of
San Leucio passing through the
streets of Casertavecchia
MAP PAGE 62
MASCHIO ANGOINO PH RITA CHILIBERTI
Where Now
ON THE COVER
Cover image by La Reggia
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STAY IN TOUCH
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10 THE CULT OF THE DEAD
19 COFFEE WITH
A meld of the sacred and the
profane, curiosities and Neapolitan
traditions linked to ‘All Souls’ month
Interview with Ciro Cacciola,
General Manager of Mav, the
Virtual Archaeological Museum of
Herculaneum
14 NAPLES AND ITS CASTELS
A trip amist towers, ancient
legends, architectural treasures and
breathtaking views, in discovery of
the symbols of the city
wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples
38 DINING
A trip in discovery of the best sweet
wines of the region. The most
representative labels of Campania
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EXPO | CAMPANIA FOOD FOR THE SOUL
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COAST&ISLANDS
PROJECT IS
ENDORSED BY
WHERE
NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS
published by:
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Campania,
the culinary cradle
of Italy
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PUBLISHER AND EDITOR-IN-CHIEF
WHERE | NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS
YOU’LL SEE US LIKE THIS! THE PHOTOS MOST VIEWED BY NEWSPAPERS WORLDWIDE
What does happiness
sound like?
German ensemble Liquid Penguin records the joyful sounds of Naples with ‘FeliCittà’
Serena Altieri
([email protected])
EDITORIAL
(IES COMUNICAZIONE SRL)
EDITORIAL COORDINATION
COMUNE DI ERCOLANO
Ilaria Puglia
([email protected])
EDITORIAL DEPARTMENT
Carey Bernitz
DESIGNER
Elizabeth Jeanette Deleacaes
CONTRIBUTING WRITERS/EDITORS
At Expo Milano, this region, symbolically associated with the Mediterranean
Diet, the Intangible Cultural Heritage of Humanity, presented its best
Monica Piscitelli, Ilaria Puglia.
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gastronomic offerings, demonstrating a renewed interest for environmental
Valeria Fusco
([email protected])
control and monitoring. A region that offers a variety of high-quality
PRINTED BY A.TETI S.R.L.
organic agricultural products unequalled in Italy, boasting tracts of land,
97% of which are clean, untainted and environmentally protected. It was,
in fact, at Expo that the President of the Regione Campania, Vincenzo De
Luca, reminded us that Campania ranks number one in Italy in terms of
environmental control and monitoring systems.
“We felt the need to re-launch the products of Campania on a large scale by
raising awareness about their sustainability and artisanal excellence which
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also a true work of art, like the silk
William S. Morris IV
produced in San Leucio”. This explains
Chris Manning
MANAGING DIRECTOR EUROPE
why at Expo Campania’s claim was
In Campania you can savour authentic,
Where® Magazine makes every effort to ensure the
accuracy of the information it publishes, but cannot be held
responsible for any consequences arising from errors or
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controlled products in a context that
On account of not being able to source the authors of the photos published, our
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“Food for the soul”.
aims to promote a philosophy of life
designed not only to foster a healthy
personal lifestyle but also improve
collective wellbeing.
wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples
2  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
Visit www.wherenaples.com
to listen to a preview of the
joyful sounds of Naples.
An acoustic documentary to immortalize the words and
sounds that the Neapolitan people associate with the idea
of joy, wellbeing and peace. Director Katharina Bihler
and composer Stefan Scheib, of German ensemble
Liquid Penquin, achieved this feat with ‘FeliCittà’ an
initiative promoted by the Goethe Institut as part of the
‘Cantiere Felicità’ project.
For roughly two weeks, in September the Liquid
Penguin travelled around Naples with their
Glückscontainer, a ‘happiness confessional’, resembling
a photo booth. Random citizens were stopped and asked
to step inside to tell the pair about the sounds that they
associate with happiness. The interviewers then recorded
the respondents’ answers .
The German duo not only interviewed both citizens
and institutions but also travelled around the outskirts
of the centre recording the most disparate and typical
sounds: from the sound of the waves on the Lungomare
to the silence of the Certosa, from the music played at
the Conservatory of San Pietro a Majella to the sound
of Caserta Vecchia right up to that of Solfatara. In short,
they recorded the joyful voice of Naples.
The Liquid Penguin have worked since 1996 in the field
of contemporary music and sound art.
Those of you wishing to publish your favourite photo of Naples should write to us either at [email protected]
or on facebook.com/wherenaples and we’ll publish it.
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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
NOVEMBER
HOT DATES
The hottest dates in
November chosen by
Where to make your
stay in Naples and on
the Coast and Islands
a truly unforgettable
experience!
FROM NOVEMBER
UNTIL FEBRUARY
FABIO LUISI
► Will conduct soprano Julia Kelter and
contralto Patricia Bardon accompanied
by the Orchestra and Chorus of the San
Carlo Opera House. Maestro Luisi will
lead the orchestra and singers in Mahler’s
Symphony No. 2 in C minor ‘Resurrection’.
Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples.
T: 0817972331
www.teatrosancarlo.it
4  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
PAINTING ACTIONISM, EXCESS AND SENSUALITY, MUSEO NITSCH
NAPOLI 2014 - 2016©A. BENESTANTE
21-22
13-1
BORIS MIKHAILOV, BY THE GROUND. COURTESY THE ARTIST
SATURDAY AND SUNDAY
I AM NOT I
▲Personal
exhibition by Boris
Mikhailov, one of
the leading and
most celebrated artists to have emerged from
the former Soviet Union. In his photography
Mikhailov deals with social issues, analysing
the profound and traumatic changes that
have invested, and continue to invest his
country, the Ukraine and, by transposition,
contemporary identity itself. In particular,
the exhibition explores the themes of social
oppression, poverty, abandonment and
solitude.
Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples.
T: 08119313016
www.madrenapoli.it
UNTIL FEBRUARY
28
PAINTING ACTIONISM,
EXCESS AND
SENSUALITY
◄ The exhibition shows the genesis,
development and meaning of action painting in
relation to the Orgien Mysterien Theatre. It takes
its inspiration from a pivotal statement made by
the artist in 1964: “My action painting is the visible
grammar of my theatre of action on the surface of a
canvas”. On display eighty-eight Schuttbilder taken
from ten different painting actions.
Museo Hermann Nitsch. Vico Lungo Pontecorvo, 29/d,
Naples. T: 0815641655
www.museonitsch.org
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WHERE NOW
Search the full Calendar at wherenaples.com
| CALENDAR
NOVEMBER
UNTIL DECEMBER
WHAT'S ON
FROM FRIDAY
TO SUNDAY
SPORT
6-8
FOOTBALL
Italian Championship A Series
Napoli vs Udinese > 7 November
Napoli vs Inter > 21 November
Stadio San Paolo. Piazzale Tecchio, Napoli. T: 0812395623
www.sscnapoli.it
BASKETBALL
National Basketball League A2 Gold Series
Givova Napoli vs Il Globo Isernia > 1 November
Givova Napoli vs S. Michele Maddaloni > 15 November
Givova Napoli vs Planet Basket Catanzaro > 29 November
PalaBarbuto. Viale Giochi del Mediterraneo, Napoli. T: 0817622198
www.azzurronapolibasket.com
WATER POLO
A1 Series
Acquachiara vs C.C. Ortigia > 4 November
C.C. Napoli vs Rari Nantes Sori > 7 November
Acquachiara vs Carisa R.N. Savoia > 13 November
C.C. Napoli vs Rari Nantes Bogliasco > 20 November
Acquachiara vs Pallanuoto Trieste > 28 November
Piscina Scandone. Viale Giochi del Mediterraneo, Napoli.
T: 0815702636
www.federnuoto.it
CREATTIVA
▲ The Italian exhibition of manual arts. Creattiva is not a simple showcase of products, but it is
a true meeting point for thousands of visitors who want to discover new trends in the world of
creativity and get in touch with exhibitors, operators, manufactures and distributors of several
different materials. Aditionally, visitors can take part at courses and demonstrations proposed
during the weekend by exhibitors at their stands.
6-8 November. From 10am to 8pm. Ticket € 7,00
Mostra d’Oltremare. Viale Kennedy, 54, Naples www.fieracreattiva.it
UNTIL
JULY
4
AXER/DÉSAXER
▲ Site-specific work by French artist Daniel
Buren. A large-scale commission conceived
especially for the spaces of a museum:
using brightly surfaces, mirrors and stripes,
the hallmark feature of his work, the artist
manages to blur the lines between the
interior and exterior spaces of the museum.
Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples.
T: 08119313016
www.madrenapoli.it
19
GILBERTO ZORIO
► Personal exhibition by Biellaborn artist Gilberto Zorio, a
protagonist of the so-called ‘Poor
Art’ movement, established in
Italy in the mid-sixties.
Galleria Lia Rumma.
Via Vannella Gaetani, 12, Naples.
T: 08119812354
www.liarumma.it
SATURDAY
21
UNTIL JANUARY
18
ONLY
CONCERTO ANNI
80 E NON SOLO - A
TRIBUTE TO THE
EIGHTIES… BUT NOT
◄ Neapolitan singer Nino D’Angelo takes
audiences on a trip down memory lane with
his first hits which saw his meteoric rise to
fame during the Eighties both in Italy and
abroad. On stage, D’Angelo is accompanied by
a talented group of musicians including Massimo
Gargiulo (piano and keyboard), Guido Russo (bass),
Agostino Mennella (drums), Franco Ponzo (guitar),
Mimmo Langella (electric guitar) and vocalist Milly
Alcolese.
Palapartenope. Via Barbagallo, 115, Naples. T: 0815700008
www.palapartenope.it
DESIDERATA
(IN MEDIA RES)
► The first retrospective
and the first personal
exhibition dedicated to
British artist Mark Leckey, 2008 winner of
the prestigious ‘Turner Prize’ and ‘Central
Art Award’. The exhibition ‘Desiderata
(in media res)’ presents an excursus of
Leckey’s work, amidst new and older
pieces: sculptural works, installations,
performance and videos. Leckey’s artistic
research falls outside the specific field
of art, constantly moving towards the
boundary between art and everyday life.
Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples.
T: 08119313016
www.madrenapoli.it
Two and a half years after the success of his internationally
acclaimed ‘In a Time Lapse’, Ludovico Einaudi has
released his new album, “Elements”. Featuring 12 tracks,
the album sees the interweaving of piano, strings,
percussion and electronics. Simultaneously exhilarating
and transcendent, Einaudi’s album boasts important
collaborations including that of Dutch String Ensemble
Amsterdam Sinfonietta, Berlin-born
electronic musician Robert Lippok and
MONDAY
Brazilian percussionist Mauro Refosco.
Teatro Augusteo. Piazzetta Duca
d’Aosta, 263, Naples. T: 081414243
www.teatroaugusteo.it
30
UNTIL FRIDAY
13
THE LAST RELIC
▲ The exhibition by Laura Cristinzio offers a reimaging of the “Villa di Poppea” in Oplontis,
evocatively recreating its spaces and illusionary perspectives, frescoes and mosaics.
The exhibition enjoys the patronage of the Regional Council of Campania, the City of Naples
and the University of Naples Federico II and involving the Department of Culture and Tourism
of the City of Naples.
Museo Archeologico Nazionale, Naples www.ultimoreperto.it
THEATRE: “One flew over the cuckoo’s nest”,
by Dale Wasserman. Teatro Bellini, Naples
2
ART: “Pompeii and Europe”. Museo
Archeologico di Napoli e Scavi di Pompei
3
OPERA: “La Traviata”, by Giuseppe Verdi.
Directed by Ferzan Ozpetek. Teatro San Carlo,
Naples
4
ART: “Capri The Island of Art”, a project in
discovery of the Island through art. Capri
5
THEATRE: “La musica provata”, by Erri De Luca.
Music by S. Di Battista. Teatro Bellini, Naples
6
FAIRS: “Creattiva”, the Italian exhibition of
manual art. Mostra d’Oltremare, Naples
7
MUSIC: “Se amore è”. Sal da Vinci in concert.
Teatro Cilea, Naples
8
PERFORMANCE: “Tableaux Vivants from
Caravaggio”. Museo Diocesano, Naples
9
ART: “Last relic”. Exhibition by Laura Cristinzio.
Museo Archeologico, Naples
10
11
ART: “Pompeo Carafa, a refined designer for
royal tables”. Museo di San Martino, Naples
ART: “The Vertebra Oracle”. Exhibition by
Rebecca Horn. Studio Trisorio, Naples
12
PHOTOGRAPHY: “20 Years with Pino”.
Exhibition for Pino Daniele. Pan, Naples
13
ART: “Desiderata (in media res)”. Solo
exhibition by Marc Leckey. Museo Madre,
Naples
14
THEATRE: “Henry IV”, by Luigi Pirandello.
Teatro Bellini, Naples
15
ART: “The Voice”. Installation by Marco
Bagnoli. Museo Madre, Naples
16
ART: “Italy at war”. Archivio di Stato, Salerno
17
ART: “Axer/Désaxer”. Site-specific work by
Daniel Buren. Museo Madre, Naples
18
THEATRE: “Il fu Mattia Pascal” by L. Pirandello,
starring Tato Russo. Teatro Augusteo, Naples
19
ART: “La ville morte”. Exhibition by Victor
Blanc. Fondazione Foucault, Naples
20
PERFORMANCE: Scenes from an archive.
Archivio Storico Banco di Napoli, Naples
21
LUDOVICO EINAUDI
6  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
1
MUSIC: Nino D’Angelo in concert. A tribute
to the Eighties but not only. Palapartenope,
Naples
22
MUSIC: Fabio Luisi conducts the San Carlo
Orchestra. Teatro San Carlo, Naples
23
ART: “The Uffizi at Casal di Principe”. Casal di
Principe, Caserta
24
ART: “I am not I”. personal exhibition by Boris
Mikhailov. Museo Madre, Naples
25
ART: Personal exhibition by Gilberto Zorio.
Galleria Lia Rumma, Naples
26
MUSICAL: “The Betrothed”. Palapartenope,
Naples
27
MUSIC: Pinchas Zukerman conducts Amanda
Forsyth on the cello. Teatro San Carlo, Naples
28
FAIRS: “Barter and Second-hand Goods Fair”.
Mostra d’Oltremare, Naples
29
ART: “Painting actionism, excess and
sensualità”. Museo Hermann Nitsch, Naples
30
MUSIC: Ludovico Einaudi in concert. Teatro
Augusteo, Naples
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WHERE NOW | CALENDAR
WHERE NOW | PERFORMANCE
UNMISSABLE EXHIBITION
UNTIL MAY
ITALY AT WAR
► An exhibition featuring historical documents and private papers explores
Italy’s entry into the war, seen from the perspective of the people of Salerno:
general mobilization, the requisition of schools, the collection of clothes and
basic supplies for the first recruits as well as a collection of letters written
by soldiers stationed at the front and by prisoners of war captured in the
province.
From 8am to 6.30pm; Saturdays from 8am to 1pm
Archivio di Stato di Salerno. Piazza Abate Conforti, 7, Salerno.
T: 089225044
UNTIL
JANUARY
17
20 YEARS WITH PINO (ADDOVE)
▲ An exhibition that traces the private and artistic life
of Neapolitan singer/songwriter Pino Daniele from 1990
to 2009, the most proliferous period in the career of the
musician who died in January 2015. On display, neverseen-before material including 180 photographs and a
4-hour video shot by Alessandro d’Urso.
Pan, Palazzo delle Arti Napoli. via dei Mille, 60, Naples.
T: 0817958605
www.palazzoartinapoli.net
THURSDAY
AND FRIDAY
UNTIL FEBRUARY
29
THE VOICE
▲ Installation by Marco Bagnoli. ‘La Voce. Nel giallo faremo
una scala o due al bianco invisibile” is an ouevre that
represents a stairway that leads from the courtyard of the
museum, crossing over its roof and reaching all the way up
into the sky. The sound of a ‘voice’, describing the menu of a typical Neapolitan
meal, emanates from an ampoule on its top.
Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79. T: 08119313016
www.madrenapoli.it
8  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
26-27
PINCHAS ZUKERMAN
▲ Violinist and conductor Pinchas Zukerman conducts his
wife, Amanda Forsyth, on the cello. The renowned couple
will perform music by Tchaikovsky and Herbert. Chorus
and Orchestra of the San Carlo Opera House. Choir master:
Marco Faelli.
Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples. T: 7972331
www.teatrosancarlo.it
Caravaggio
Tableaux Vivants
from Caravaggio
Eight actors bring Caravaggio’s
masterpieces to life
A
live stage show of enormous visual impact. Twenty three canvases inspired by
the work of Caravaggio come to life on stage, right before your eyes, using the
"tableaux vivants" technique. Using the most basic elements (fabrics of various
colours and textures and everyday objects), the actors ‘compose’ the 23 canvases
in front of the audience. Once constructed, the painting creates the scene as it would have
appeared in the artist’s studio. Within a matter of seconds, costumes and drapery are expertly
transformed by the actors who each take on the role of model, set designer, costume designer
and props manager. The action is immobilized as if illuminated by one lone flash of light, one
‘perfect’ gesture brings to life the heart of the painting. Impeccable iconographic precision, the
expressive force of bodies and faces illuminated by a lateral beam of light, fully bring out the
‘poetry of reality’, the element that distinguishes the works of Michelangelo da Caravaggio.
8 and 22 November; 13 and 17 December. At 10.30am, 11.30am, 12.30am.
>> www.museodiocesanonapoli.com
>> Museo Diocesano, Largo Donnaregina, Naples. T: 0815571365
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WHERE NOW | NEAPOLITAN TRADITIONS
Installation by Rebecca
Horn, piazza Plebiscito,
Naples
Church of Santa Maria del
Purgatorio, Naples
The cult of the
dead
A meld of the sacred
and the profane, curiosities and Neapolitan
traditions linked to ‘All Souls’ month. From the
souls in Purgatory to culinary customs
SIGHTSEEING
10  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
I
San Pietro ad Aram, Naples
n Naples, where myth, legend and mystery blend together, the
them. This generally happens during a dream
as a go-between between the living and the
between via Foria and the heart of Capodimonte;
cult of the dead has assumed a picturesque, fairytale-like aura. A
when the deceased appears in person and gives
dead. In fact, the lost soul appears in a dream
the Church of Santa Maria del Purgatorio, on the
walk down the busiest, narrowest streets in the heart of the city
precise indications which are then interpreted
and shows where, amidst piles of bones, his/
Upper Decumanus, in today’s via dei Tribunali and
is enough to understand the depth of people’s commitment and
using the so-called “Smorfia”, a typical Neapolitan
her bodily remains lie. The faithful then goes to
the Basilica of San Pietro ad Aram, in a side-street
devotion. There are tabernacles and shrines protected by glass
book which associates words with numbers,
the designated cemetery, adopts the skull of the
of corso Umberto, just behind piazza Garibaldi. In
cases and adorned with fresh flowers and eternal lights. They are
enabling dreams to be transformed into
dead person (known as the “capuzzella”) and
all three places you can find dozens and dozens
embellished by rosaries, images of the Virgin, statues with agonized
numbers so that people can play the lottery.
builds a so-called “scarabattolo”, a sort of display
of skulls of the late lamented to “adopt”.
expressions surrounded by flames – the so-called “souls of Purgatory” –
The case of the cult of the “souls of Purgatory”
cabinet, like a rudimentary altar, that will act as a
Rebecca Horn drew inspiration from the
photos of the deceased, votive candles and flowers.
is different: this time, it is not the deceased who
home for the skull. He/she then polishes the skull
Fontanelle Cemetery to make the installation
In Naples, the faithful attribute the Dead and “souls of Purgatory ” with
appear to their loved ones in dreams but the
and displays it for everyone to see. The devotee
commissioned in 2002.
functions that the Catholic religion only ascribes to saints, namely the
“souls of Purgatory”, i.e. the deceased devoid of
then returns periodically to visit the lost soul who,
The work, entitled “Spiriti di Madreperla”, was
power of answering prayers and visiting the world of the living when
family, abandoned souls who have never had a
thanks to his/her devotion, will finally be able
exhibited in Piazza del Plebiscito in Naples: it
the mood so moves them.
dignified burial and are, therefore, amassed in
to “cross over”. The day chosen for visits to dead
consisted of 333 bronze skulls sunk into the
However, praying for the souls of the dead is not a one-sided affair.
common ossuaries.
souls is Monday and the month dedicated to
cobblestones and 77 neon angels’ halos hanging
Though prayers are said for their souls, benefits of a practical nature are
They ask people to pray for them and look after
them is November.
above the heads of passersby, thus serving as a
asked for in return: e.g. finding a husband, a job, or help with winning
them so that they can leave Purgatory (the world
The Neapolitan cult of the “capuzzelle” is
stark contrast to the ghostly skulls. According to
the lottery. Obviously, the recently departed cannot talk but will,
of the living) to reach their final destination
concentrated in three places: the Fontanelle
Horn, it was this contrast that embodied the real
nonetheless, find a way of getting in touch with the person calling upon
(hell or heaven). In this case too, dreams act
Cemetery, in the heart of the Rione Sanità district,
meaning of her work.
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WHERE NOW | NEAPOLITAN TRADITIONS
Today, several of those skulls are a part of another
during a visit to Naples, the German artist visited
installation, “Spirits”, on permanent display at the
a couple of octagenarians at their home in vico
Museo Madre in Naples.
Lammatari, in the Sanità district.
Here, the individually lit “capuzzelle” are hung
It was here that she learnt about the cult of the
on the walls, each with its own mobile mirror
souls of Purgatory, nameless, abandoned souls
in which visitors can see their reflections. The
whose skulls are amassed at the Fontanelle
whole is further enhanced by the solemn voice
Cemetery where the devout go to adopt a skull
of musician Hayden Danyl Chisholm. Horn’s
(capuzzella), looking after it, polishing it and
intention is to give visitors the idea of a life that
praying for its soul. She was so awed by this
even death cannot end, because it becomes a
unique Neapolitan tradition that she decided
part of eternity.
to create her “Spiriti di madreperla” masterpiece
The story of how the “capuzzelle” installation
(Museo Madre. Via Settembrini, 79, Naples www.
came about is extremely intriguing. In 2002,
madrenapoli.it).
Culinary traditions of the Day of the Dead
‘All Souls’ day amidst tantalizing specialities and old beliefs: the
most popular foods and their ritualistic meanings. A meld of
tradition and good food
NOUGAT OF THE DEAD
In keeping with Neapolitan tradition, on 2 November, ‘All Souls day, the locals prepare a
special sweet treat known at the nougat of the dead. It is softer than most and, under a
layer of dark chocolate, it hides a heart of chocolate and hazelnuts.
WHEAT
A symbol of life and fertility, when
combined with mulled wine,
pomegranate seeds, cinnamon, walnuts
and sugar, this delicacy is part of the
ritual celebrations in Campania and, in
general, in Southern Italy associated
with the Day of the Dead.
PUMPKIN
A symbol of fertility dating as far back
as Greek and Latin times, pumpkin is
used to ward off evil spirits. A popular
dish, especially in November, it pairs
beautifully with pasta but can also be
grilled and dressed with vinegar and
parsley.
12  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
CHICKPEAS
In olden days, on 2 November,
chickpeas were offered to the souls of
the dead so that they could satiate their
hunger before returning to the other
world. Chickpea soup is a typical dish
of Neapolitan tradition associated with
the dead.
BROAD BEANS
Since time immemorial, broad beans
were the food dedicated to the dead
and were served as the main course
at funeral banquets. Their long stalks,
which penetrate the soil deep down,
were believed to be able to put the
living in touch with the dead.
WHERE NOW | NAPLES EXPERIENCE
Castel Nuovo, Maschio Angioino
Naples and its
castles
The richest and best-preserved castles in Naples.
A trip amidst towers, ancient legends, architectural treasures
and breathtaking views, in discovery of the symbols of the city
Castel dell'Ovo
T
here are seven castles in the
CASTEL DELL’OVO
Vesuvius silhouetted in the background. The little
CASTEL NUOVO, MASCHIO ANGIOINO
CASTEL SANT’ELMO
CASTELLO DEL CARMINE
city: Castel Nuovo, also known
The oldest in the city, Castel dell’Ovo is a landmark
lanes beneath the thick walls are lined with the
Another symbol of Naples, Castel Nuovo looms
The highest fortress in the city, it stands on the
Standing in piazza Mercato, all that remains of the
as Maschio Angioino, Castel
attraction due to its position and architecture. The
houses of Borgo Marinaro, a former fisherman’s
majestically in piazza Municipio. Commissioned
hill of Vomero, in a strategic position. Of Norman
Castello del Carmine, built in 1382 by Charles III of
Sant’Elmo, Castel Capuano,
castle stands on the tiny isle of Megaride where,
haunt where quaint lanes are now lined with
by Charles I of Anjou in 1266 when he moved the
origin, it boasts several magnificent panoramic
Durazzo, is the Spinella Tower and a stretch of the
Castel dell’Ovo, Castello del
according to legend, the siren Pantenope washed
pleasant bars and pizzerias.
capital of the Kingdom from Palermo to Naples,
terraces: the city lies at its foot showing itself in
Aragonese wall flanking it.
Carmine, the one in Nisida
ashore. Its name, the Egg Castle, derives from an
CASTEL CAPUANO
Aragonese sovereigns. The majestic marble portal
acting as a backdrop to the thick maze of the
CASTELLO DI NISIDA
most representative not only on account of their
placed an egg under its foundations, a magical
Built in the 12th century by the Normans, it takes
at its entrance was commissioned by Alfonso of
city’s narrow streets. It is only after admiring
Dating back to the 16th century, the Castello
historical backgrounds but also because they are
egg on which the destiny of the city is thought
its name from the nearby gate Porta Capuano,
Aragon to celebrate the victories of his dynasty.
Naples like this, from above, that you can say that
di Nisida was first a hospice for those suffering
better preserved.
to hang. On passing through its entrance, visitors
one of the many gates in the city, leading to
Inside, the stark stone Hall of the Barons is named
you have truly seen it. Following the Neapolitan
from the plague during the terrible epidemic
will have the feeling of having entered another
Capua. It is the second oldest castle in Naples
after the barons arrested and slaughtered here
Revolution of 1799, it became the prison of the
of 1626 and subsequently a prison for political
dimension, due to the light the filters through the
and also one of the most significant examples
for having plotted against him. Legend has it
most important protagonists of the Revolution,
prisoners. Today, it houses the city’s juvenile
apertures overlooking the sea.
of Norman architecture. Over the years, it has
that the prisoners of Castel Nuovo disappeared
including Giustino Fortunato and Luisa Sanfelice:
prison. Little remains of the Fortezza di Vigliena in
Breathtaking views can be enjoyed from its
housed all the city’s courts of justice: the ‘Salone
mysteriously because they were thrown into the
according to legend, terrifying screams could be
the neighbourhood of San Giovanni a Teduccio,
panoramic terrace: on the one side the sea and,
dei Busti’ hosts all the busts of the princes of the
ditch surrounding the castle where they were fed
heard emanating from its underground passages.
partially destroyed during the revolution of 1799.
on the other, the city with the Bay of Naples and
Forum of Naples.
to an enormous African crocodile.
Today it is a museum that is well worth a visit.
Those of you wishing to publish your
favourite photo of Naples should write
to us either at
[email protected]
or on facebook.com/wherenaples
and we’ll publish it.
14  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
PH. SERENA ALTIERI
all of its splendour, with the profile of Vesuvius
ancient legend according to which the poet Virgil
PH. RITA CHILIBERTI
the castle owes its current architecture to the
and the fortress of Vigliena. The first four are the
w w w. w heretravel er. com  15
WHERE NOW | IN DISCOVERY OF CAMPANIA
Welcome to
Sannio
In discovery of the province of Benevento,
amidst local curiosities, medieval history,
monuments and tourist attractions. Five
communes chosen by Where to make your trip
memorable
For more info
www.comune.cerretosannita.bn.it
www.comune.cusanomutri.bn.it
www.comunesanlorenzello.it
www.comuneguardiasanframondi.gov.it
www.comune.pietraroja.bn.it
16  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
T
Piazza G.B. Manni
he province of Benevento, bordering to the South
Piovene described it as follows : "...a complete
the art of ceramic-making with the nearby
picturesque area whose distinguishing features
with Irpinia, to the West with Casertano, to the North
reconstruction, in true Baroque style, capable of
commune of San Lorenzello. Its historic centre
include its lovely medieval town, rolling hills
with Molise and to the East with Puglia, has such
surprising even the most discerning visitors”. The
boasts two churches, the Church of San Lorenzo,
dotted with pine and oak woods but, above all,
unique morphological, historical and anthropological
archaeological recovery of its medieval centre,
which houses the wooden sculpture of the town’s
vast stretches of vineyards and olive groves.
characteristics that for a moment, following the Unification
known as the ‘Medieval Pompeii’, is currently in
patron saint, and the Church of the Congregazione
The historical centre, built up around the
of Italy, there was talk of actually creating a separate
progress. Awarded Orange Flag certification by
della Sanità, rich in exquisite ceramic works of
castle, though partly abandoned following the
region: the Sannio. Where has chosen five communes to accompany you in
Touring Club Italiano and boasting ‘Città dell’olio’
art including a majolica tympanum by Antonio
earthquake of 1980, still retains several medieval
discovery of a truly fascinating area.
(‘City of Oil’) designation, Cerreto is renowned
Giustinianei. Along the via Regia, on the banks
attractions of note. The area is home to a number
Pietraroja, whose name derives from the French ‘pierre rouge’ (red stone)
for its age-old ceramic-making tradition which
of the river Titerno, we find the Park of San
of lovely small Baroque churches.
present in the area, is a mountain commune surrounded by woods
flourished following the earthquake of 1688 when
Sebastiano, home to the City of Dinosaurs,
Lastly, we recommend pushing farther north to
abounding in natural springs. Although its most important monument is
the reconstruction of the town attracted scores
an educational park stretching over roughly
the picturesque village of Cusano Mutri, whose
the Romanesque Parish Church of Santa Maria Assunta, another unmissable
of Neapolitan potters who, absolved from paying
one hectare where visitors can admire fifteen
typically medieval historical centre retains all of
attraction is its Geo-Paleontological Park, with its museum, the Paleolabo,
taxes, combined their experience with that of
reproductions of fiberglass dinosaurs located in
its original old-world charm intact with its narrow
housing fossil finds of considerable note, including Ciro, the first baby
local potters to give life to a new, more opulent,
evocative natural surroundings.
streets, porticoes and houses boasting elaborately
dinosaur in Italy, several of whose internal organs are still intact.
Baroque-style porcelain.
Guardia Sanframondi owes its name to the
stone-worked portals and windows.
Cerreto Sannita, an outpost of Sannio Pentro (a Roman bridge known to
Since that time, the ceramics of Cerreto have
Sanframondo family who built an imposing
The largest church in the commune is the Church
the locals as ‘Annibale’ can still be seen here today together with a podium of
become highly sought-after objects. In fact,
medieval castle here. Today, the castle serves as the
of San Giovanni Battista whose precious shrine
the only Sannite Temple in Campania), is identified as a ‘planned community’
several of the figurines displayed in the manger
town’s cultural hub and is used for performances,
contains a thorn from the woven crown of thorns
on account of its regular urban structure. Its reconstruction was, in fact,
of the Reggia di Caserta, were actually crafted by
film screenings, art and photographic exhibitions.
placed on the head of Jesus during the events
based on a project by the Carafa Counts following the earthquake of 1688
master potters from Cerreto.
The commune, renowned, above all, for its noble
leading up to his Crucifixion.
which razed the town to the ground. Italian writer and journalist Guido
For more than three centuries, Cerreto has shared
wines produced by the Guardiense winery, is a
w w w. w heretravel er. com  17
[ MADE IN NAPLES]
Coffee with
Special thanks
to GUGLIELMO
CAMPAJOLA
owner of
La Caffettiera
What are the latest attractions at Mav?
What is the annual influx of visitors to
Mav?
In 2015, we introduced 7 new installations
In 2014, we registered more than 70,000
regarding the Villa of the Papyri, an
visits to the site of Herculaneum, plus
interactive map of Herculaneum and a
another 120,000 visitors to exhibitions
machine that delivers fragrances.
organized abroad. 2015 has seen an increase
Future projects?
in this trend: the exhibition held in Warsaw,
Since 2010, we have been working on the
which ended last month, registered an influx
MAV ON TOUR project. An itinerant museum
of more than 100,000 visitors.
project on Pompeii and Herculaneum,
which will travel around the world. We
have staged exhibitions in Barcelona, Chile,
Madrid and Warsaw. We have participated
in various exhibitions in collaboration with
Ciro
Cacciola
The Museum’s objective is to offer visitors
a chance to relive the everyday lives of the
inhabitants of the cities destroyed by the
eruption of 79 A.D. In what way?
Visitors are treated to a fully immersive
experience involving a tour, interactive maps,
sensorial effects and sounds. They can even
relive the earthquake that accompanied the
The General Manager of Mav,
the Virtual Archaeological
Museum of Herculaneum,
the first and only virtual
museum devoted to
archaeology and, in particular
to the archaeological finds
of Vesuvius
the British Museum in London and with the
Kunst Foundation in Hamburg. We are also
preparing an exhibition which is scheduled
to travel to France in 2016.
terrible explosion of Vesuvius during the
eruption of 79 A.D.
What makes MAV’s
offer so unique?
Thanks to the use
of avant-garde
reconstruction is created with
technology, MAV
the help of archaeologists,
enables visitors
to learn about
the archaeological
heritage of the
Vesuvian area. Each
architects, 3D designers
and historians who research
the documents and scientific
texts available to validate the
hypothesis of a reconstruction.
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SHOPPING
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM
NAPLES
ACCESSORIES
Sizing
E&G CAPPELLI – The beauty of a tie lies in
superior-quality craftsmanship, especially
when the fabric used is pure silk. Open MonSat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – via
Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 37 – T: 081.400166
Shoes
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WOMEN
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PISTOLA – For more than a century, Pistola has
been manufacturing handmade gloves for
every occasion. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm
and 4.30pm-8pm – via S. Caterina a Chiaia, 12
SPAZIO C – An high-class boutique selling
clothing and accessories. Open Mon-Sat
10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.
spazioc.net - via Bisignano, 60 – T: 081.401005
MEN
It is the perfect place to shop for designer fashion. In this picturesque village-style outlet, you’ll find over
200 international and Italian brands with savings of 35-70% less
I
f you love designer fashion, you can’t visit
Naples without making time for a trip to
La Reggia Designer Outlet.
This stylish shopping village is one of five
Italian centres in the McArthurGlen Group,
and is home to a wide selection of soughtafter brands including Blumarine, Brooks
Brothers, Hugo Boss, Roberto Cavalli, Tru
Trussardi, Pinko, Guess, Liu jo, Patrizia Pepe
and many more. Even better, they’re all 3570% less than the RRP, all year round.
With so many brands on offer, you’ll find
exactly what you’re looking for – from
designer accessories and beautiful
eveningwear, to holiday essentials and
stylish gifts for your friends and family.
To make your shopping experience
even more special, you can arrange an
appointment with the Personal Style
Advisor. Book online before your visit to
enjoy their expert service tailored to your
fashion needs.
As well as designer shopping, you can enjoy
much more at La Reggia Designer Outlet.
Relax by their beautiful fountain and watch
the world go by, or admire your purchases
over a leisurely lunch in one of their cafés
and restaurants. There’s plenty of delicious
local cuisine on offer, including authentic
Italian coffee, traditional Naples-style pizza
and Italy’s world-famous ice cream.
The centre is open seven days a week and
you can get there easily on the return
shuttle bus service, which runs daily from
wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples
20  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
Piazza Minipio in the centre of Naples. You
can also reserve a private transfer by calling
the information office or booking online.
Plus, non-EU citizens can enjoy a tax refund
on products purchased at the centre.
With over 200 brands at 35-70% less all year
round, as well as great places to eat and
drink, you can enjoy a fantastic day out at La
Reggia Designer Outlet.
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BOOKS & MAGAZINES
UK
ANTICA LIBRERIA REGINA – Established as an
antique bookseller in the 19th century, over
the years it has updated its collection with a
number of modern works and publications.
Open Mon-Fri 9,30am-1,30pm and 4-8.30pm;
Sat 9,30am-1.30pm – via Vittoria Colonna, 15
a/c – T: 081.407309
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MEN
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>> Autostrada A1. Exit Caserta Sud,
Marcianise (CE)
>> T: 0823 510244
>> [email protected]
>> McArthurGlen.it/Marcianise
8
EUR
XS
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MARIO PORTOLANO – Leather gloves
handmade. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and
4.30pm-8pm - www.marioportolano.it – via
Chiaia, 140/141 – T: 081.418354
41
Clothes
La Reggia Designer Outlet
GEMELLI DA POLSO – Love and passion for
the working of precious stones. Collections
inspired by nature, including the Isle of
Capri. Open only by appointment - www.
gemellidapolso.it – Piazza Amedeo, 16/I – T:
081.403512
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ULTURALE CRAVATTE – A tie should be
expressive, stylish and memorable – in short,
beautiful. Open Tue-Fri 10am-7,30pm; Sat
10am-1,30pm - www.ulturalecravatte.it – via
Carlo Poerio, 115 – T: 081.2481151
LA FELTRINELLI – More than 100,000
titles including books, music and
music scores, DVDs, games, musical
instruments, high-class stationery,
gadgets and magazines. Open MonFri 10am-9pm; Sat 10am-11pm; Sun
10am-2pm and 4pm-10pm - www.
lafeltrinelli.it – via Santa Caterina a
Chiaia, 23 – T: 081.2405411
CHILDREN’S
CLOTHING &
TOYS
DU PAREIL AU MEME – A brand
specializing in clothing for children
aged 0 to 14. Open Mon-Sat 10am1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm –
http://www.dpam.com/ - via Vittoria
Colonna 14/a
FRANCESCO MARTONE – Established
in 1889, Francesco Martone has
developed from generation
to generation with its array of
elegant, timeless children’s fashions.
SHOPPING
Corso Umberto I, 234. T: 081287962 www.
francescomartone.it
LA BANCARELLINA – Dresses children aged
0-6 with the latest creations by Mini Man, Le
Guignol and Startrite. Open Mon-Sat 10am2pm and 4pm-8pm – via Carducci, 39/41 – T:
081.401695
OONA L’OURSE – Sartorial creations for
children aged 0-4. Over the years, the age
bracket was extended to 12-year-olds. Open
Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat
10am-1,30pm – www.oonalourse.it – via Carlo
Poerio, 6 – T: 081.7644745
SCIUSCIA’ – Leader in clothing for children and
boys aged 0–18. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm
and 4.30pm-8pm - www.sciuscianapoli.it – via
Vittoria Colonna, 3 – T: 081.4104397
SIOLA – A wide choice of clothing and
accessories for infants and children up to the
age of 10. Its beautiful window displays, where
no detail has been left to chance, and its
charming interior, are a joy to behold. Open
Mon-Sat from 9am-8.15pm; Sun 11am-1.30pm;
5pm-8pm – Via Chiaia, 11 – T: 081415036 www.
siola.it
CLOTHING – MEN &
WOMEN
ALESSIO VISONE – She creates exclusive
styles right before your eyes. Open Mon-Fri
9am-1pm and 3pm-6pm – via dei Mille, 1 – T:
081.421390
AMINA RUBINACCI – Her oyster-style sweater
has made her famous throughout the world
and is available in the classic colours of
burgundy, prune, light blue, white, grey or
black. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri
4pm-8pm – via dei Mille, 16 – T: 081413048
ANGELO MARINO – A stylish menswear shop,
synonymous with Neapolitan
sartorial elegance. Open
Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm
and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat
10am-1,30pm – via
Domenico Morelli, 14/16
– T: 081.414225
ASPESI – Lightness and
fluidity are the key words
of this brand featuring
soft, versatile clothing.
Open Mon-Sat 10am1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm
– www.aspesi.it – piazza
San Pasquale, 23/24 – T:
081.7645399
BARBARO - Since 1970,
Barbaro has been
synonymous with a
distinct, highly
recognizable
style that
interprets
MICHAEL KORS. Crafted in vacchetta, the Bryce
Leather Boot are a part of Jet Set 6 Collection
www.michaelkors.com
w w w. w heretravel er. com  21
SHOPPING
Italian luxury with
the best-known
clothing and
accessory labels.
Galleria Umberto
I, 1/7. T: 081414940
www.barbaro.eu
BLASI – A
haven for
lovers of
precious
fabrics,
refined
cuts and
8pm – www.bikkembergs.com – via Gaetano
Filangieri, 4/5
EDDY MONETTI – Hats, ties, smoking jackets
and a range of accessories. His motto is
“men must keep abreast of the times”. Open
Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Sat 4pm8pm - www.eddymonetti.com – via dei Mille,
45 – T: 081.407064 – piazza Santa Caterina, 8 – T:
081.403229
FA.B.ER – Featuring sartorial items and costume
jewellery, this workshop is a blaze of colour and
a quirky shopping destination. Open Mon-Sat
10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – via G.
Ferrigni, 4 – T: 338.4300696
FALCONERI – A brand that creates comfortable,
form-fitting garments with an impeccable cut.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm8pm - www.falconeri.it – via dei Mille, 51 – T:
081403471
HUGO BOSS. Sorrel leather ankle boots
featuring a decorative clasp and metal fittings
to add a versatile touch of cool to all outfits.
www.hugoboss.com
fashion-forward styles. Open Mon-Sat 10am1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – via dei Mille, 31/33
– T: 081.415283
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI – The king of cashmere.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm8pm – www.brunellocucinelli.con – via dei
Mille, 31/35 – T: 081.4238126
BRUNO CARUSO PRIVEE – Caruso’s bridal
wear is a delightful mix of elegance and
contemporary trends. Relief flowers,
Swarovski, georgette and opulent, elegant
capes designed to discreetly cover plunging
necklines during religious ceremonies but
also soft, mermaid-style lines and semitransparencies epitomize the rich details of
his gowns. Via Carlo Poerio, 12. T: 0817640551
www.brunocarusoprivee.com
CATAPANO - A wide range of apparel, both
casual and elegant and top-level customer
service make Catapano a must-visit destination.
via Toledo. T: 081407813
CESARE ATTOLINI – The king of tailors, or the
tailor of kings, Cesare Attolini actually made
a suit for Victor Emanuel III of Italy. Open
Mon-Fri 10,30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat
10am-1,30pm - www.cesareattolini.com – vico
Vetriera, 12 – T: 081.426826
DE MATTEO - A rich choice of brands for men
and for women. Also stocks accessory. Open
Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Piazza Nicola Amore,
14/16. T: 081260582 www.dematteogroup.it
DESIGUAL – Established in Barcelona in 1984,
the slogan of this fantasy-filled brand is:
“Desigual is not the same” – www.desigual.com
– Via Toledo, 300/302 – T: 0810665132
DIRK BIKKEMBERGS – Belgian designer Dirk
Bikkembergs’ philosophy has always been
to combine the best of fashion and sport.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-
FRANCESCA FERRANTE – Its collections,
ever-attentive to new fads and the latest
trend, are practical, young and fresh. Open
Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm8pm – www.francescaferrante.com – piazza dei
Martiri, 52 – T: 081.2451056
FRANZESE - A high-end luxury boutique
carrying men, women and children’s clothing
plus loads of stylish accessories – www.
luxuryoflove.it – via D. Morelli, 6/10b (piazza dei
Martiri). T: 0816583168
GALLERIA NAVARRA – A real oasis of shopping
in a garden: iconic brands and the latest trends
in Neapolitan elegance - www.gallerianavarra.
it – Piazza dei Martiri, 23 – T: 0817643595
GUTTERIDGE – Micheael Gutteridge arrived
in Naples from Yorkshire and went on to
create a small empire. Today the company
is synonymous with creative flair, skill,
tradition and innovation. Open Mon/Sat
10am/1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www.
gutteridge.it – via Chiaia, 107
LIU JO – Established as a textiles company
specializing in knitwear, it later branched out
into “ready-to-wear” fashion for women, men
and children. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm
and 4.30pm-8pm – www.liujo.it – via Gaetano
Filangieri, 6/7 – T: 081.42982
LOTTO 0 – A chic, cult Neapolitan sportswear
destination. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and
4.30pm-8pm – www.lottozero.it – via Gaetano
Filangieri, 60 – T: 081.2512103
LUCIANO COPPOLA – Styles by Brando, Iceberg,
Fusco and Gigli are featured alongside a
selection of specially treated waterproofed
garments. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm - via dei
Mille, 47 – T: 081.413026
LUISA SPAGNOLI – A perfect balance of
innovation and tradition, upgraded lines and
experimentation with styles are part of Luisa
Spagnoli’s philosophy. Open Mon-Fri 10am2pm and 4pm-8pm – www.luisaspagnoli.
it – via Chiaia, 200 – T: 081.410132 Via Toledo. T:
081419476
MARIELLA BURANI – Clothing, leather goods,
knitwear and footwear for discerning women.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm8pm – www.mariellaburani.com – via Chiaia,
136
MAXI HO – A reference point for shopping in
Naples, where the group owns a number of
sales points. Its via Nisco location is dedicated
to clothing collections, footwear and
accessories for men. Open Mon-Fri 10am1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm; Sat 10am-1.30pm
- www.maxiho.it – via N. Nisco, 23/27 – T:
081.410231
MURPHY & NYE – One of the most prestigious
nautical brands in the world. Open Mon-Sat
HALLOWEEN – Since 1981 it has offered a
wide choice of garments from the best
Italian and European brands based on
attention to detail and the search for
unusual, high-quality fabrics. Open Mon/
Sat 9,45am-1,45pm and 4,30pm-8pm - via
Ferrigni, 37 – T: 081403773
HARMONT & BLAINE – Iconic dachshund
brand Harmon & Blaine represents one
of the most dynamic and successful
sportswear brands in the fashion industry.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri
4pm-8pm – www.harmontblaine.it –
piazza dei Martiri, 33 – T: 081.7642591
HUGO BOSS –An ever so sleek and stylish
collection of high-end clothing for men
and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm
and 4pm-8pm – www.hugoboss.com – via
dei Mille, 41 – T:081.401424
JOSSA – Men’s clothing, footwear and
accessories. It stocks Alberto Aspesi
quilted jackets and jackets, vintage-style
Duvetica quilted jackets and minimalist,
beautifully tailored Jil Sander suits.
Accessories include Pantofola D’Oro
sneakers and coloured Car Shoe loafers. Via
Carlo Poerio, 43. T: 0817649835
22  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
ALBERTA FERRETTI. Severe, old-world brocade
cuissardes for the 2015 Fall-Winter season.
www.albertaferretti.com
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
ROBERTA BACARELLI – Since 2011, a brand
dedicated to women fashion. Her collection
fluctuates between tailor-made authentic
vintage garments and more contemporary
stylish outfits, in a blend conveying an
equilibrated image of nowadays woman
which, not dropping out the cloths comfort,
blinks her eyes to the past days elegance www.robertabacarelli.it - Via C. Poerio, 48. T:
0817641584
RUBINACCI – Here you can sit down, have a
cup of coffee with Mariano himself, discuss the
arrival or some new fabric or the manufacture
of a new suit. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and
Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – www.marianorubinacci.
net – via Chiaia, 149/E – T: 081.415793
DIOR. High boots in blue and brown patterned
patent leather add a touch of colour to cold,
grey winter days. www.dior.com
10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – www.
store.murphynye.com – via Chiaia, 148/149
OFFICINE – Classic clothing and casual refined
taste. So many brands are available: Lardini,
Barba Orian, Tramarossa Pants, Roy Rogers and
Altea Heritage are just some of them. Via Carlo
Poerio, 92/f. T: 0810324403
PAOLO FIORILLO – The piazza dei Martiri
boutique is dedicated to women’s collections
while the one located in via Carducci stocks
clothing, footwear and accessories for men
and women. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm
and 4pm-8pm – www.paolofiorillo.com – via
Carducci, 49/51 – piazza dei Martiri, 30/32 – T:
081.2400023
OLD ENGLAND – Tradition, quality and elegance
meld in a shop whose British style has made it
famous throughout the world. Open Mon-Sat
10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - via
Filangieri 15/D
PINKO – Pinko stands out thanks to its stunning
decor, studied down to the last detail,
including its carefully planned arrangement
of lights, colours and displays. Open Mon-Sat
10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm –
www.pinko.it - via dei Mille, 1/7 – T: 081.4976360
PRIDE CONCEPT STORE PENALTY – A space
where research and the experimentation of
new brands is the name of the game. Open
Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm - www.
pridepenalty.it – via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 27/28
– T: 081.418542
RAFFAELE CAPASSO - Established in 1905,
Raffaele Capazzo has always managed to
always keep abreast of the times by not only
offering apparel form men, women and
children but also home furnishings and linen –
Corso Umberto I, 147 – T: 081204741
- www.libonatijewels.com – vico II Alabardieri,
27 – T: 081.19564205
APA – The time-honoured tradition of coral and
cameo crafting from 1750 to the present-time.
Via Cavallo, 6, Torre del Greco – T: 0818810246
www.lpm-apa.com
BARAKA ELITE LUXURY – New materials skilfully
combined with gold and diamonds thanks to
cutting-edge techniques. Open Mon-Sat 10am1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.baraka.it – via
Calabritto, 28 – T: 081.7646951
BRINKMANN – Iconic watchmakers whose
name is imprinted on the clocks of all the
cableway stations in Naples - www.brinkmann.
it - Piazza Municipio, 21 – T: 0815520555
SARTORIA DALCUORE – His outerwear has a
unique cut that earned him the nickname of
“the tailor, non-tailor”, coined by his colleagues
to emphasize his flair and his non-conformist
attitude. Open Mon-Sat 8am-8pm; Sun 8am2pm - www.sartoriadalcuore.com – Riviera di
Chiaia, 281– T: 081.7645785
BRUNO & PISANO – All the details of this
boutique’s decor are reminiscent of the
passing of time: from its entrance door
featuring a ticking clock, to its poufs and
armchairs. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm
and 4.30pm-8pm – via Calabritto, 15 – T:
081.7644035
SATRIANO CINQUE – An atelier, a meeting place
and a tailor’s shop, it offers high-end “made to
measure” garments made from precious fabrics
featuring unique weaves and patterns. Open
Mon-Fri 10am-7pm and Sat 10am-2pm - vico
Satriano, 5 – T: 081.0320021
CALABRITTO 28 – New materials skilfully
combined with gold and diamonds thanks
to cutting-edge techniques. Open Mon-Sat
10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www.
baraka.it – via Calabritto, 28 – T: 081.7646951
TAKESHY KUROSAWA – A dramatic, cuttingedge, totally unconventional brand, whose
unusual, personality-filled name says it all.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm
– www.takeshykurosawa.com – via dei Mille, 11
YAMAMAY – Lingerie, pyjamas and night wear,
swimwear and make-up, but also eyewear and
bags. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am-8.30pm – www.
yamamay.com - via Chiaia, 94 – via dei Mille, 83
A/B – T: 081.409490
WEEKEND MAX MARA - An Italian fashion
house known for its ready-to-wear clothing
for elegant, dynamic women. Corso Umberto
I, 108/110
CONCEPT STORES
MERCEDES-BENZ SPOT – For total look
enthusiasts, at this store, Mercedes owners
will find everything necessary to coordinate
luggage, jackets, watches and pens with their
car. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri
4.30pm-8pm - www.mercedes-benz-spot.it/ via Nisco, 16
R-STORE – Authorized Apple assistance centre.
A place where you can try out all the latest
applications or simply browse through
everything that the universe of the bitten
apple has to offer. Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm
and 4pm-8pm - www.rstore.it - via Nisco, 14/16
– T: 081.404246
CARAMANNA – The philosophy of Caramanna’s
jewellery is encapsulated in innovative, soughtafter shapes, intriguing subjects and the
working of noble materials based on timeless
artisanal techniques - www.caramannagioielli.
it - Via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 2 – T: 0810608740
DODO BOUTIQUE – A collection of charms
created by Pomellato, recognized throughout
the world for its jewellery, designed to
celebrate the small, whimsical feathered Dodo.
Open Mon-Sat 10,30am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri
4.30pm-8pm - www.dodo.it - via Filangieri, 58
GENTILE - High class watches and jewellery
since 1900. Armando Gentile Gioielleria.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm. Via Toledo, 349,
Naples. T: 081412711 info@armandogentile.
it; Gentile Gioielli. Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm.
Via Nicola Nisco, 4, Naples. T: 081418360
[email protected]
GIOVANNI RASPINI – A space extending over
a surface area of 35 sq.m in the heart of the
shopping centre renowned for its beautifully
handcrafted silverware. Open Mon-Sat
10.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.
raspini.it – via Bisignano, 63 – T: 081.4976064
ILEANA DELLA CORTE – Her motto is: “I like
being elegant”. Open Mon 4.30pm-8pm; TuesSat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – www.
ileanadellacorte.it – via Carlo Poerio, 52/a – T:
081.7646101
JEWELLERY &
WATCHES
INTRECCI PREZIOSI – The result of passion and
artisanal perfection, each piece is produced
using only the most precious materials and
time-honoured design techniques. Open
Tues-Sat 9,30am-1,30am; Mon-Sat 4,30pm-8pm
- www.intreccipreziosi.com - via Carlo Poerio,
89 – T: 0810321203
ALESSANDRA LIBONATI JEWELS – AA young,
design company where attention to fashion
and contemporary trends plays a key role.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm
MANTOVANO – On offer are items of high-class
jewellery, both antique and modern, Sheffield
silver and objets d’art. Open Mon-Sat 10am1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm – www.
24  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
mantovano.com – piazza dei Martiri, 58 – T:
081.418003
MONETTI – High-class watchmaking and
jewellery in Naples since 1904. Open Mon-Sat
10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm –
www.monettiorologi.com – via dei Mille, 12
– T: 081.411468
NAPPA GIOIELLI – The first Nappa jewellery
store was founded in Naples in 1920. Unique
jewels that combine high-end craftsmanship
with sophisticated design - aesthetics. Open
Mon-Sat 9.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm
- www.nappagioielli.it – via Filangieri, 65 – T:
081.413143
PANDORA - The wide range of Pandora
jewellery offers a superlative mix of gift
ideas for all types of women and occasions.
With its charms, bracelets, rings, earrings,
watches, necklaces and pendants, those on
the receiving end can continue to extend
their Pandora collection with timeless items,
designed to cater to all tastes and, what’s
more, last for a lifetime. – www.pandora.net –
Via Toledo, 322 – T: 0814976012
PRESTA – Established in Naples in 1902 thanks
to the enterprising spirit of visionary, Cavalier
Giuseppe, who used his love of jewellery to lay
the foundations for future generations. Open
Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm8pm – www.prestagioielli.it – via dei Mille
SARA LUBRANO - Sara Lubrano’s handcrafted
pieces are designed to exalt the personality of
those who enjoy wearing exclusive jewellery,
often tailor-made in her atelier. Vicoletto
Belledonne a Chiaia, 7, Naples. T: 08119575070
www.saralubrano.it
VENTRELLA – Each piece of jewellery is unique
in an ongoing search for perfection. Ventrella
jewellery is distinguished by its original charm
knows as the “labyrinth” or the “boomerang”.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri
4.30pm-8pm - www.ventrella.it – via Carlo
Poerio, 11 – T: 081.7643173
LEATHER & LUGGAGE
CARPISA – A small tortoise logo and more than
600 sales points scattered throughout Italy
and the world. Its rich array of collections, an
expression of pure Italian design, are a bargain
fashionista’s dream come true. Bags, small
leather goods, luggage, briefcases, accessories
and gifts at affordable prices. www.carpisa.it –
Via Nisco, 1 – T: 081418390; via Toledo, 249/251
– T: 0812525067
FURLA – Since 1927, Furla has produced and
distributed stylish, high-class, exclusively
“Made-in-Italy” bags, footwear and accessories
throughout the globe. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.furla.com –
via Gaetano Filangieri, 26 – T: 081.414218
PIQUADRO – The company specializes in
business and travel luggage, trolleys and
suitcases, mainly in leather or hi-tech materials,
a blend of traditional Italian craftsmanship,
design, innovation and technology. Open
Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm8pm - www.piquadro.com – via Carducci, 32
– T: 081.419245
TRAMONTANO – Since the very beginning,
Tramontano’s leather goods collections,
including “Made-in-Italy” totes and accessories,
have been manufactured exclusively in its
Naples-based workshops. Open Mon-Sat
10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm - www.
tramontano.it – via Chiaia, 143/144 – T:
081.414837
PASSION SHOPPING
BRUNO ACAMPORA – For the past 40 years,
Bruno Acampora has been creating perfumed
oils in his small atelier. His range features seven
natural essences of international repute. Open
Mon-Sat 9am-1pm and 3pm-6pm – www.
brunoacampora.com – via Gaetano Filangieri,
72 – T: 081.401701
ELENA COLONNA – For several generations,
the Haute Couture bridal wear found at Atelier
Elena has been a pure expression of the
maison’s sartorial expertise. Her passion for
bridal gowns stems fro more than fifty years
in the business. Open only by appointment
– www.elenacolonna.it – via dei Mille, 40 – T:
081.404590
LIVIO DE SIMONE – A “designer cum artist”
whose creations have garnered international
acclaim on runways throughout the world
thanks to his magnificent sartorial offerings.
In addition to his womenswear, De Simone’s
home fabrics are also absolutely stunning.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm
- www.liviodesimone.it – Via D. Morelli, 17 – T:
0817643827
MARINELLA – The history of the Marinella
family started with its founder Eugenio. It was
he who founded the “Marinella philosophy”:
more than a sales point, a sort of men’s club
where human relations are based on service,
courtesy and respect.
Open Mon-Sat 6,30am-8pm; Sun 9am-1pm
- http://www.marinellanapoli.it - Riviera di
Chiaia, 287 – T: 081.7644214
M. CILENTO E F.LLO DAL 1780 – For more than
200 years, in addition to high-quality, high-end
accessories, Cilento has offered its clientele a
wide range of the best fabrics for clothing and
shirting - www.cilento1780.com - Via Medina,
61/a-b. T: 0815513363
MONCLER – Boutique and home to the famous
“puffer” jacket. A jacket that is ideal both for
mountain and city wear. Open Mon-Sat 10am14pm and 4pm-8pm – www.moncler.com –
via Filangieri, 21 – T: 081.421159
MUSEUM SHOP - Shop for gifts and souvenirs
typical of Naples. T-shirts, jewelry, bronzes,
prints, statues, books, CDs, DVDs and
stationery with themes dedicated to Naples www.museum-shop.it - Largo Corpo di Napoli,
3. T: 3891194169
OSTUNI – For the past fifty years, Ostuni has
been a leader in the world of fragrances and
is known, above all, for its rarities. Bottles
that are almost impossible to find anywhere
else and unrivalled essences. Open Mon-Sat
9am-1.30pm and 4pm-8pm – via Morelli,
23 – T: 081.7643903 – via D. Colonna, 39 – T:
081.401804
PROFUMO EMOZIONI OLFATTIVE – A
boutique dedicated to niche fragrances for
BURBERRY. Elegant Wellington boots with
stud inserts at the ankle and non-slip rubber
soles. it.burberry.com
those in search
of their ideal
fragrance. Open
from Tuesday to
Saturday from
9.30am to
1.30pm
and from 4pm
to 8pm. Mon. From 4.30pm to 8pm - www.
profumopoerio33.it - Via Carlo Poerio, 33. T:
0812405072
VOYAGE PITTORESQUE - Made-to-order
contemporary, graphic and photographic
works plus the reproduction of all types and
sizes of prints and photographs. Elite art,
prints, panels, objet d’art and customized
works. Stylish, imaginative tailor-made
creations - www.voyagepittoresque.it – Via
Vittoria Colonna, 15 – T: 081407309
SHOES
ALBANO – A temple to luxury shoes: sexy
sandals in uber-glam nuances, embellished
by precious stones, Swarowski crystals and
ultra-feminine details. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm-8pm - www.
albano.it – via Santa Caterina a Chiaia, 12 – T:
081.19568193
ALBERTO GUARDIANI – Superior quality
footwear featuring a blend of exquisite
craftsmanship, experimentation and
painstaking attention to detail cohabit in a
perfect mix, giving life to luxurious products.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and 4pm-8pm –
www.albertoguardiani.com - via Gaetano
Filangieri, 76/78 – T: 081.7643884
DELIBERTI – Style, research, design and a
profound intuition for new trends is the
byword of this house of shoes. Open MonSat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.
deliberti.it – via dei Mille, 65 – T: 081.6584363
DEV – Carries the men’s, women’s and children’s
lines of renowned brands Tod’s, Hogan and
Fay. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri
4.30pm-8pm – via Gaetano Filangieri, 28/33 –
T: 081.410156
ERNESTO ESPOSITO SHOES – A Neapolitan
designer of international repute, his passion
for fashion, art and design have served as
his main sources of inspiration. Open MonSat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - www.
ernestoespositoshoes.com/ - via Santa
Caterina a Chiaia, 20 – T: 081.4238325
w w w. w heretravel er. com  25
SHOPPING
SHOPPING
L’ARTIGIANO DEI SANDALI – Jackie Kennedy had
a soft spot for this tiny shoemaker’s shop. For the
past 50 years, the Ricci family has been crafting
custom-made sandals at this location. The open
Capri model with a low heel resembling a Roman
sandal is one of the venue’s standouts. Open
Mon-Sat 9am-1,30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm –
vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 23 – T: 081.414698
PASKAL – The boutique was founded by
Pasquale Campanile, a member of a family of
time-honoured shoemakers who began his
adventure in 1956 with a workshop in via Scarlatti,
later going on to open what is now Paskal – a
haven of finely-crafted footwear. Open Mon-Sat
9.30am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm – www.
pkbypaskal.it – via dei Mille, 83 – T: 081.409466
MARIO VALENTINO – Truly innovative footwear.
Several of his styles have even been showcased
at the Museum of Modern Art in New York. Open
Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm –
www.mariovalentino.it – via Calabritto, 10 – T:
081.7644262
SPATARELLA - Footwear and leather goods
manufactured by revered Italian and international
brands. For women who love trendy designer
accessories and shoes - Via Toledo, 284 – T:
081417108
RUCO LINE – Easy-to-wear, practical footwear that
focuses, above all, on comfort. Open Mon-Sat
10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – via dei Mille,
27 – T: 081.419012
SUTOR - A temple to luxury shoes: Marini, Regain,
Green George, Santoni, Premiata. Via Carlo Poerio,
36. T: 0812452292
YMOTHO – High-quality, trendy shoes at
unbeatable prices featuring a wide selection of
dozens of styles. A “must-visit” destination. Open
Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm – Piazza
Giulio Rodinò, 17 – T: 081.425626
STATIONERY
LA BOTTEGA DELLA CARTA – Boasts an
impressive choice of stationery, gift items and
party decorations. Customers will be swept away
by its colourful, eye-catching treats, from festoons
to coloured boxes right up to gift cards. - via
Cavalleriza a Chiaia, 23 – T: 081421903
LA FELTRINELLI – A megastore spread out over
four floors, Feltrinelli offers including books,
music and music scores, DVDs, games, musical
instruments, high-class stationery, gadgets and
magazines. Open Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and
4.30pm-8pm - www.lafeltrinelli.it – via Santa
Caterina a Chiaia, 23 - T: 081.2405411
ACCESSORIES
GREY FLANNEL – Via Le Botteghe, 31, Capri.
T: 0818388200
DANIELA GRILLO – Beachwear. Corso
Vittoria Colonna, 138, Ischia. T: 3465158320
www.danielagrillo.com
GRIFO – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 169, Ischia.
T: 0813334401 www.grifoischia.it
IL SOGNO – Beachwear. Via Maiano, 15,
Sant’Agnello, Sorrento. T: 3388854082
IDENTITÀ MARE – Via Delle Terme, 5, Ischia.
T: 081985580
IL PELLICANO – Corso Vittoria Colonna,
Ischia; Piazzetta Sant’Angelo, Serrara
Fontana, Ischia. T: 081990854; T: 081904368
LE MONDE DES BIJOUX – Via Roma, 123,
Ischia. T: 081984800
JUDITH MAJOR – Via Chiaia delle Rose.
Sant’Angelo, Ischia. T: 081983295;
0813330336
MACRAMÈ – Via Luigi De Maio, 28, Sorrento.
T: 0818773114
KETRA FASHION – Corso Italia, 1/G, Meta di
Sorrento. T: 0815323032
CLOTHING
LA CAPRESE PIÙ – Corso Vittoria Colonna,
Ischia. T: 081981797 www.lacapresepiu.
com
ANNA FOTI – Corso Italia, 210, Sorrento. T:
0818784730 www.annafoti.com
LA PARISIENNE – Piazza Umberto I, 7, Capri.
T: 0818370283 www.laparisiennecapri.it
A’ PUTECHELLA – Via Luigi Mazzella, 101,
Ischia. T: 0813334537 www.aputechella.it
LINOMANIA – Via Pasitea, 199, Positano. T:
3384194405
BOUTIQUE BAROCCO – Viale Pasitea, 94,
Positano. T: 089811144
MARIA LAMPO – Via Pasitea, 12/16,
Positano. T. 089875021 – www.marialampo.
it
CARMELA CELENTANO – Via P.R. Giuliani,
4/6, Sorrento. T: 0818781370 www.
carmelacelentano.it
CHIARO DI LUNA – Corso Italia, 16/18, Meta
di Sorrento. T: 0815322290
CRUCIANI – Piazza Umberto, 5, Capri. T:
0818370204 www.cruciani.net
DOLCE E GABBANA – Via Camerelle,
39/41, Capri. T: 0818377154 – www.
dolcegabbana.it
ELIO FRONTERRÈ – Corso Vittoria Colonna,
154, Ischia. T: 081905552 www.eliofronterre.
com
EMPORIO LE SIRENUSE – Via Cristoforo
Colombo, 30, Positano. T: 089811468 –
www.sirenuse.it
MARIO ADARIO – Corso Italia, 128/130,
Sorrento. T: 0818781361 www.marioadario.
it
MARIORITA STORE – Boutique at the Capri
Palace Hotel. Piazza Vittoria. Anacapri,
Capri. T: 0818371426
NADIR – Via Pasitea, 44, Positano. T:
089811690 www.nadirpositano.com
PHILOSOPHY – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 130,
Ischia. T: 0813331312
RETRÒ FASHION STORE – Corso Luigi
Manzi, Casamicciola, Ischia. T: 0815072429
www.retroabbigliamentoischia.it
RI BOUTIQUE – Piazza Santa Restituta,
Ischia. T: 081994322
FARELLA – Knitwear. Via Fuorvaldo, 21/c,
Capri. T: 0818375243 – www.farella.it
RIZ BOUTIQUE – Via Messer Onofrio, Ischia.
T: 081900239
FIORDALISO BOUTIQUE – Via Gianturco, 2,
Ischia. T: 081900219
STELLA DI MARE – Corso Angelo Rizzoli,
150, Ischia. T: 081994396
26  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
JEWELLERY &
WATCHES
BOTTEGA DEL GIOIELLO – Corso Italia,
179, Sorrento. T: 0818785419
BOTTIGLIERI GIOIELLI – Corso Vittoria
Colonna, 67, Ischia. T: 081984128 – www.
bottiglierigioielli.it
CAPRI KRONOS DI MARIO RUOCCO –
Via Le Botteghe, 12, Capri. T: 0818377545
www.shop.caprikronos.com
CHANTECLER – Via Vittorio Emanuele, 51,
Capri. T: 0818370544 – www.chantecler.it
DESIDERIO GIOIELLI – Piazza Umberto I,
17, Capri. T: 0818370011
FELUDEI – Via Dei Mulini, 19, Positano. T:
089812181 www.feludei.it
GENTILE POSITANO – Via del Sarracino,
57, Positano. T: 0898123477 info@
gentilepositano.it www.gentilepositano.it
SORRENTO CHE DELIZIA – Via San Cesareo, 9,
Sorrento. T: 0818074702
LOCAL PRODUCTS
PASSION SHOPPING
CANTINE ANTONIO MAZZELLA – Wine. Via
Campagnano, 2, Ischia. T: 081901541
ANTICA SARTORIA POSITANO – Sartorial. Via
G. Marconi, 158/164, Positano. T: 089875089
www.anticasartoriapositano.it
CAPRI RICORDI – Capri. T: 0818378803 www.
capriricordi.it
CERAMICA SOLIMENE – Via Madonna degli
Angeli, 7, Vietri sul mare. T: 089210243 www.
ceramicasolimene.it
CERAMICHE ASSUNTA – Via Cristoforo
Colombo, 137, Positano. T: 089875008 www.
ceramicassunta.it
CORNER SHOP – Via San Francesco, 21/23,
Sorrento. T: 0818783322
D’AMBRA VINI – Wine. Via Mario D’Ambra, 16,
Ischia. T: 081907246
COAST&ISLANDS
FASHION VOGUE BEACHWEAR –
Beachwear. Via Giovanni Mazzella, Ischia. T:
081908020
VOZZA – Via Fuorlovado, 38, Capri. T:
0818374010 www.graziavozza.com
FATTORIA MARECOCCOLA – Via
Marecoccola, 10, Sorrento. T: 0815330151
www.fattoriamarecoccola.net
FISCHI D’ISCHIA – Lucky charm. Piazza Marina,
Casamicciola, Ischia. T: 081994141 www.
fischidischia.it
IL GUSTO DELLA COSTA – Via Capriglione,
24, Positano. T: 0898131098 www.
ilgustodellacosta.it
ISCHIA SAPORI – Liqueurs. Via Porto, 36, Ischia.
T: 081991600 – www.rucolino.it
LIMONCELLO DI CAPRI – Via Roma, 79, Capri.
T: 0818375561 www.limoncello.com
MARYCHARLES – Souvenirs. Corso Italia, 210/b,
Sorrento. T: 0818771455 www.marycharles.it
BIMONTE – Cameos and coral. Via P.R.
Giuliani, 62, Sorrento. T: 0818071880 – www.
bimontesorrento.com
BON BON – Positano fashion. Via G. Marconi,
390, Positano. T: 089875963 www.bonbonsrl.it
BOTTEGA DI BRUNELLA – Positano fashion.
Via Pasitea, 72, Positano. T: 089875228
BRUNELLO CUCINELLI – Cashmere apparel.
Via Camerelle, 14/a, Capri. T: 0818388248 –
www.brunellocucinelli.it
CABIRIA – Positano Fashion. Via Pasitea, 253,
Positano. T: 089812168 – www.cabiriamoda.it
CARRO FASHION – Positano fashion. Viale
Pasitea, 90, Positano. T: 089875780 www.
fashion-positano.com
CARTHUSIA – Local fragrances. Via Camerelle,
10, Capri. T: 0818370529; Corso Italia, 117.
Sorrento. T: 0818075549 – www.carthusia.com
ECOCAPRI – Piazzetta Ignazio Cerio, 11, Capri. T:
0818374510 www.ecocapri.com
FABIANA FILIPPI – Knits. Corso Angelo Rizzoli,
148, Ischia. T: 081900472 – www.fabianafilippi.
com
FIORENTINO CREATION – Interior
decorations. Piazza Angelina Lauro, Sorrento.
T: 0818784258 www.fiorentinocreation.com
NATURISCHIA – Corso Vittoria Colonna, 220
and 246, Ischia. T: 081982112
I LOVE POSITANO – Home design. Via
Pasitea, 91, Positano. T: 08912199 www.
ilovepositanodesign.com
SERPICO – Piazza Matteotti, 14, Ischia. T:
081.997162
LA CONCHIGLIA – Artisanal products. Via
Fluoro, 29, Sorrento. T: 0818774605
LEONARD – Corals. Via San Cesareo, 24,
Sorrento. T: 8772923
LO SCRIGNO DI BRUNELLA – Positano
Fashion. Via Mulini, 24/26, Positano. T:
0898123502
LOUISE MODA POSITANO – Positano fashion.
Via dei Mulini, 22, Positano. T: 089875192
www.louisepositano.com
MARILÙ – Positano fashion. Via Pasitea, 323,
Positano. T: 089811229 – www.marilumoda.
com
MARIO LIMONE – Perfumes. Corso Italia,
212 b/c, Sorrento. T: 0815341021 www.
mariolimone.it
PEZZI PAZZI – Positano fashion. Via Guglielmo
Marconi, 12, Positano. T: 089811141 www.
pezzipazzi.it
RALLO – Handcraft. Via Pasitea, 58, Positano. T:
089811711
RINO BOUTIQUE – Positano fashion. Via
Pasitea, 114, Positano. T: 089812043 www.
rinoboutique.it
RUSTICA DOMUS – Furniture. Corso Vittoria
Colonna, 155, Ischia. T: 081992100
SARTORIA FIORENTINO – Made-to-measure
garments. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 29,
Positano. T. 089875290
SHOES
ANTONIO VIVA SANDALI CAPRESI – Via
Giuseppe Orlandi, 75, Capri. T: 081.8373583 –
www.sandalocaprese.it
DON CATELLO – Via franco Franchi, 5, Positano.
T: 089811905 http://doncatello.weebly.com/
SANDALI CORCIONE – Corso Italia, 28,
Sorrento. T: 0818770600 www.sandalicorcione.
com
SANDALI SINISCALCHI – Corso Italia, Sorrento.
T: 0818783065 – www.sandali-siniscalchi.
blogspot.com
GIOIELLERIA DI SOMMA – Corso Italia,
114, Sorrento. T: 0818073213
IVI GIOIELLI – Via Cristoforo Colombo, 20,
Positano. T: 089811025 – www.ivigioielli.it
LA CAMPANINA – Via Vittorio Emanuele,
18, Capri. T: 0818370643 www.
lacampaninacapri.com
LA CAPRESE – Via Vittorio Emanuele, 41,
Capri. T: 0818377777
LA PERLA – Corso Vittoria Colonna,
129, Ischia. T: 081988094 www.
laperlagioielliischia.it
POMELLATO – Via Camerelle, 10/b, Capri. T:
0818375418 – www.pomellato.it
SORRENTO GIOIELLI – Corso Italia,
Sorrento. T: 0818770392 – www.
sorrentogioielli.com
SWAROVSKI – Corso Italia, 21, Sorrento. T:
0818771455 – www.swarovski.com
THE CORAL JEWELRY – Via P.R. Giuliani,
62, Sorrento. T: 0818071880 www.
thecoraljewelry.com
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WHERE NOW | SHOPPING
GIFT
GUIDE
The Where Team brings you some
items to inspire you
▼ TRUSSARDI
Via dei Mille, 30, Naples. T: 081416829
www.trussardi.com
▼ TOD’S
via Calabritto, 3, Naples. T: 0817643694
www.tods.com
▲ LOUIS VUITTON
Via dei Mille, 2, Naples. T: 0817646606
www.louisvuitton.it
▲ EMPORIO ARMANI
Piazza dei Martiri, 61, Naples.
T: 081425816 www.armani.com
▲ PRADA
Via Filangieri, 26, Naples. T: 081413499
www.prada.com
▲ BULGARI
Via Filangieri, 40, Naples. T: 081409551
www.bulgari.com
▼ GUCCI
Via Calabritto, 4, Naples. T: 0817640730
www.gucci.com
▼ MONTBLANC
Via Filangieri, 38, Naples. T: 081400057
www.montblanc.com
Piazza dei Martiri, Naples
28  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
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[ FA SHI O N D E SI GNERS]
Top Brands
The paradise of luxury shopping in Naples and on the Coast&Islands
BULGARI - The Italian creator of luxurious
jewels www.bulgari.com - via Filangieri,
40, Naples. T: 081.409551. Open Mon-Fri
10am-8pm; Sat 10am-1,30pm - via Camerelle,
37, Capri. T: 0818374434. Open Mon-Sun
10am-11pm
BURBERRY - An unmistakable icon of British
style since 1865, the brand invented a new
look and made a name for itself in the world
of fashion thanks to its stylish raincoats
and innovative materials. Its distinctive
tartan pattern has become one of its bestknown and widely- loved symbols - www.
it.burberry.com - via dei Mille 24/28, Naples.
T: 081.0700180
DAMIANI - Creativity, design and
entrepreneurship have been the hallmarks
of the Damiani family for almost a century,
combined with a profound passion for art,
handed down from father to son and still
apparent in the third generation that now
helms the company - www.damiani.it - via
Filangieri, 15 bis, Naples. T: 081.405043 - Open
Mon-Sat 10am-1.30pm and Mon-Fri 4.30pm8pm
EMPORIO ARMANI - A leading luxury brand
on the world fashion scene that designs,
manufactures and distributes fashion
and lifestyle products including clothing,
accessories and jewellery - www.armani.com
– piazza dei Martiri, 61, Naples. T: 081425816.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-8pm; Corso Italia, 160162, Sorrento. T: 081.8781779
FENDI - Founded in 1925, by Edoardo and
Adele Fendi, over the years, it has built up
its international reputation in the fashion
industry with its stunning range of haute
couture and pret-a-porter collections - www.
fendi.com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 24/25,
Naples. T: 081.413261. Open Mon-Sat 10am2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; via Camerelle,
8/B, Capri. T: 0818370871. Open Mon-Sun
9,30am-10pm
GUCCI - Gucci’s “Made-in-Italy” style has
become synonymous with elegance,
sophistication and desirability - www.gucci.
com - via Calabritto, 4, Naples. T: 081.7640730.
Open Mon-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri
4pm-8pm; via Camerelle, 25-27, Capri. T:
0818370820. Open Mon-Thur and Sun 10am10pm; Fri-Sat 10am-midnight
HERMES ITALIA - Men, women and children’s
clothing but also leather goods, jewellery and
watches, fragrances and homeware
- www.italy.hermes.com - via Gaetano
Filangieri, 53/57, Naples. T: 081.4207054.
Open Tue-Sat 10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm8pm; via Camerelle, 43, Capri. T: 0818378957.
Open Mon-Sun 10am-9pm; closed on Wed
HOGAN - Not only shoes but also bags,
clothing and eyewear are sold at this
exclusive boutique
www.hogan.com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 33,
Naples. T: 081.410156. Open Mon-Sat 10am2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; piazza Umberto
I, 20, Capri. T: 0818375967. Open Mon-Sun
10am-9pm
LOUIS VUITTON - A dream, an icon and a work
of art. Each Louis Vuitton bag is a symbol of
exemplary quality and outstanding savoirfaire - www.louisvuitton.it - via dei Mille, 2,
Naples. T: 081.7646606. Open Mon-Sat 10am2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; via Camerelle,
16/A, Capri. T: 0818376799. Open Mon-Sun
10am-10pm
MAX MARA - A name associated since its
inception with classic female elegance, it has
always offered clean-cut, beautifully tailored
lines. Its sensual yet “no frills” style has always
served as its visiting card - www.maxmara.
com - via Gaetano Filangieri, 69, Naples.
T: 081.405900. Open Mon-Fri 10am-2pm
and 4pm-8pm; Sat 10am-2pm; corso Italia,
102-104, Sorrento. T: 0818782785. Open MonThur 10am-1,30pm and 5,30pm-10pm; Fri-Sun
10,30am-10pm
Via Vittorio Emanuele, Capri
MONTBLANC - For a century synonymous with
high-class writing instruments, the brand has
been known for its timeless values including
quality and craftsmanship - www.montblanc.
com - via Filangieri, 38, Naples. T: 081.400057.
Open Mon-Fri 10am-1.30pm and 4pm-8pm
PRADA - – The decor of this boutique mirrors
Prada’s minimalist style to perfection – www.
prada.com – Via Filangieri, 26, Naples. T:
081.413499. Open Mon-Sat 10pm-8pm; via
Roma, 2, Capri. T: 0818374420. Open Mon-Sat
10am-8pm; Sun 10am-7pm
SALVATORE FERRAGAMO - The high quality
of its footwear is guaranteed by attention
to the construction of its lasts, unrivalled
craftsmanship – www.ferragamo.com
– woman piazza dei Martiri, 56, Naples.
T: 081.415454; man piazza dei Martiri,
60, Naples. T: 081.412123. Open Mon-Sat
10am-2pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; woman
via Vittorio Emanuele, 21-29, Capri. T:
0818370499; man via Carlo Serena, 1, Capri. T:
0818376514. Open Mon-Sun 10am-9pm
Via Filangieri, Naples
TOD’S - Tod’s offers up handmade footwear,
bags, leather goods and accessories for
men and women. The essence of luxury and
timeless style - www.tods.com - via Calabritto,
3, Naples. T: 081.7643694. Open Mon-Sat
10am-14pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm; piazza
Umberto I, 8, Capri. T: 0818376896. Open
Mon-Sun 10am-9pm
TRUSSARDI - Originally founded as a glove
factory in 1911, this Italian lifestyle brand
subsequently went on to become one of the
most important brands on the world fashion
stage - www.trussardi.com - via dei Mille, 30,
Naples. T: 081.416829. Open Mon-Sat 10am14pm and Mon-Fri 4pm-8pm
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Piazza Amedeo, Naples
DINING
ANTICA PIZZERIA PORT’ALBA – Estabilished in 1738
and located under the arch wich from Piazza Dante
bring to via Costantinopoli, Port’Alba was a meeting
place for artists and writers. A characteristic place to
enjoy the Neapolitan pizza with the fantasy and the
quality of Gennaro Luciano. Via Portalba, 18, Naples.
T: 081459713 www.anticapizzeriaristoranteportalba.
com
ANTONIO&ANTONIO – Restaurant cum pizzeria.
Diners can choose from among more than 40
types of pizza baked in a traditional wood-burning
oven. Via Partenope, 26. T: 0812451987 www.
antonioeantonio.net
PASTA AND BEANS WITH MUSSELS.
cannellini beans, oil, a few cherry tomatoes
and a pinch of hot chili pepper. You can use
either mixed pasta or ‘tubetti’ depending on
your individual preference
NAPLES
INTERNATIONAL CUISINE
AL MUERZO – A corner of Spain in the heart of Naples.
Via Bausan, 4. T: 081425093 www.almuerzo.org
AMIR – The secrets of Arab cuisine handed down
by generations of women. Via Santa Chiara, 25. T:
0815527380
BELLA CINA – Japanese and Chinese cuisine. Expect
top-notch roast ravioli. Calata San Marco, 15. T:
0815512308
DRAGO D’ORO – Fresh ingredients, creativity and
style make this one of the best eateries of its kind. Via
del Chiostro, 21/23. T: 0812135478
GIAPPO SUSHIBAR TAKEAWAY – An elegant sushi
bar boasting a stylish interior and a wide selection
of top-notch Japanese cuisine. Vico Belledonne in
Chiaia, 2. T: 0817648465 www.giappo.com
Teatro Posillipo
JAP-ONE – A refined, elegant atmosphere for lovers of
Oriental flavours. Via Santa Maria a Cappella Vecchia,
30. T: 0817646667
JORUDAN SUSHI – Quality and tradition for fine
Japanese dining. Via Tasso, 288. T: 081 640564
A multi-purpose space that can be enjoyed seven
days a week
KUKAI – Classical Japanese cuisine upgraded with an
innovative twist. Via Carlo de Cesare, 52. T: 081425888
LA MADRUGADA – Since 1991 tapas bar and
restaurant. Via Arenella, 93, Naples. T: 3492405442
A
new season and a new direction for Teatro Posillipo which,
thanks to a generous investment by the Nemea group,
promises to offer theatre aficionados an action-packed year
of attractions consisting not only of musical events but also live
concerts featuring renowned musicians, book presentations,
screenings and plays.
The glamorous inaugural gala dinner marking the opening of this
one-of-a-kind space was attended by the Mayor of Naples Luigi De
Magistris, the spokesman of the President of the Regione Campania
Emilio Di Marzio and other illustrious guests who were welcomed
by the new owners of the Neapolitan theatre, a team of industry
professionals who, on 21 November, will treat audiences to a concert
by Giuliano Palma. The theatre’s restaurant, managed by Terrazza
Calabritto, has also been revolutionized and enriched by a sushi
menu developed by Enrico Schettino of the renowned Giappo
brand. A highly versatile, multi-functional space that can be enjoyed
seven days a week.
wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples
32  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
DINING
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM
ROMEO SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT – Top-notch
sushi served in a warm, welcoming atmosphere
where no detail has been left to chance. Via
Cristoforo Colombo, 45. T: 0810175002 www.
romeohotel.it
TENDER – Located in the vibrant heart of the city,
this small cosy restaurant also offers discerning
diners a chance to eat sushi at lunch. Vico Santa
Maria a Cappella Vecchia, 5. T: 0817643143 www.
japonegroup.com
PIZZA
Teatro Posillipo
via Posillipo 66 - Naples
T. 081 7691742
www.teatroposillipo.it
50 KALÒ – Its name stems from the combination of
50, which in the Cabala stands for bread, and the
Greek word Kalò, which means beautiful. Superlative
pizza made by Ciro Salvo. Piazzetta Sannazzaro,
201/b. T: 08119204667 www.50kalò.it
AL 22 – In a pictoresque street of Naples, in a corner of
the city made of sounds and colors, in a film of Totò
and Eduardo De Filippo, you meet the pizzeria “Al
22”, which titled the name of the restaurant with the
number of his address. Via Pignasecca, 22, Naples. T:
0815522726 www.pizzeriaal22.it
BRANDI – An icon of authentic Neapolitan pizza
since1780. This was where the pizza Margherita was
invented in 1889, so-called in honour of the Queen
of Italy who tasted it here. Salita Sant’Anna di Palazzo,
2. T: 081416928 www.brandi.it
CAPASSO – Antica Pizzeria Capasso founded in Porta
San Gennaro, in the heart of via Foria is managed by
the grandfather Vincenzo descending Donna Adele,
who offers with his kin to the public True Neapolitan
pizza according to the tradition of a great family. Via
Porta San Gennaro, 2/3, Naples. T: 081456421
DA ATTILIO – The restaurant is based on Neapolitan
traditional cuisine. Everybody is welcomed with
kindness. One of the best pizzas is the Carnevale,
designed like a star and the border stuffed with
ricotta, don’t forget to ask and taste the delicious
Bacetti or the big croquette. Via Pignasecca, 17. T:
0815520479
DA MICHELE – Founded in 1930, this restaurant is
so traditional that it only serves pizza marinara
and pizza Margherita. Via Cesare Sersale, 1/3. T:
0815539204
DI MATTEO – Famed, above all, for its fried pizza but
not only. Also serves an array of other delectable
fried offerings. Via dei Tribunali, 94. T: 081455262
www.pizzeriadimatteo.it
FRESCO – A modern take on traditional trattorie.
Diners will delight in its traditional flatware and
espresso served in a glass. Via Partenope, 8. T:
0816582823
GINO SORBILLO – An entire family of pizza chefs (21
brothers committed to the art of pizza-making. An
institution since the 1930s. Via dei Tribunali, 32. T:
081446643 www.sorbillo.it
GORIZIA – Located in the heart of Vomero, it was
founded in 1916 by Salvatore Grasso. Today the
family Grasso keep up the name Gorizia, with great
enthusiasm and passion, continuing to offer a high
quality Neapolitan pizza according to the tradition.
Via Gian Lorenzo Bernini, 29, Naples. T: 0815782248
www.gorizia1916.com
GUSTO&GUSTO – “L’angolo del gusto” an offshoot of
the Antonio&Antonio chain. Via Partenope, 31-33. T:
0812452662 www.gustoegusto.it
LA FIGLIA DEL PRESIDENTE – Artisanal Neapolitan
pizza based on time-honoured family tradition,
Maria Cacialli continues to uphold the name of
one of the best-known pizza chefs in Naples. Via
del Grande Archivio, 23/24. T: 081286738 www.
lafigliadelpresidente.it
LA MASARDONA – The pizzeria helmed by Enzo
Piccirillo has been a cult destination for “pizza fritta”
since 1945. Via Capaccio Giulio Cesare. T: 081281057
LA NOTIZIA – Famed pizzeria owned by Enzo Coccia.
Just pizza, from start to finish. Via Michelangelo da
Caravaggio, 53/55. T: 0817142155 www.enzococcia.it
L’ARTE DELLA PIZZA – The pizzeria was fonde by
the master pizza maker Gaetano Esposito who with
his son Enzo continue sto de light Neapolitans and
tourists with its tasty pizza and its artistic creations
made with the dough. Via Santa Maria della Libera, 5,
Naples. T: 0812411907
LA TAVERNA DI BACCO – The philosophy that
distinguishes La tavern di Bacco is the painstaking,
ongoing search for excellence in the food and wine
sector, with particular emphasis on Campanian
products that make our pizzas a one-of-a-kind
tasting experience. Via Sementini, 28, Naples. T:
0815466119 www.sasapizzamia.it
LOMBARDI – One of the oldest pizzerias in Naples,
the Lombardi family was the first to sell authentic
Neapolitan pizza in the US. Established in 1892, its
signature dish is “pizza fritta” topped with bacon bits
and ricotta cheese. Via Foria, 12. T: 081456220
NON SOLO PIZZA – Is a take away pizzeria infused
with a welcoming, cozy atmosphere. The basic
ingredients of Marco’s pizza include love, passion,
high-quality ingredients and the famous water of
the Nitrodi springs. Piazza SS. Immacolata, 7, Forio
d’Ischia. T: 0810123841
OLIVA CONCETTINA AI TRE SANTI – Traditional
Neapolitan pizza. Premium quality, freshly sourced
ingredients. Via Arena alla Sanità, 3. T: 081444166
www.pizzeriaoliva.it
PIZZERIA BORBONICA – It proposes True Neapolitan
Pizza in a friendly atmosphere of the ancient Napoli.
The secret of its success is the professionalism and
the use of high quality products. Via Egiziaca a
Pizzofalcone, 99/100, Naples. T: 0810322495
STARITA – Established in 1901, this trattoria, also
renowned for its deep-fried snacks, made an
appearance in L’oro di Napoli (1954), a film starring
Sofia Loren. Via Materdei, 27. T: 0815441485 www.
pizzeriastarita.it
TRIANON – Founded in 1923 by the Leones, a
husband and wife team, it is renowned for its big “a
ruota del carretto” pizza. Via Pietro Colletta, 44/46. T:
0815539426
RESTAURANTS
ANTICA OSTERIA DA TONINO – Heirloom osteria
featuring a wood interior, a wall covered with
celebrity photos and simple home cooking. Via
Santa Teresa a Chiaia, 47. T: 081421533
‘A TAVERNA DO RE – Francesco Parrella upgrades
traditional favourites while ensuring that they retain
all of their original flavours. Fondo Supportico di
Separazione, 2/3. T: 0815522424
CANTINA SAN TEODORO – Owned by Mimmo
Alba, this small corner of paradise boasts just five
tables. Flavours from Sicily and Campania combine
to create dishes boasting a unique, inimitable flavour.
Vico Satriano, 12. T: 08118990558
www.cantinasanteodoro.it
CARMNELLA – Thanks to years of experience and a
passion for pizza and typical Neapolitan cuisine, each
day, thanks to a careful selection of only the finest
ingredients, the venue offers fresh, high-quality,
authentic Neapolitan fare. A passion for art, the pride
of a lifetime! Via Cristoforo Marino, 22/23, Naples. T:
081 5537425 [email protected]
CIRO A SANTA BRIGIDA – It’s an elegant restaurant
located in a unique position, deep in the tranquility
of one of the historical areas of the city of Naples. It is
the ideal place to enjoy true Neapolitan pizza, fresh
seafood dishes and classic cuisine. Via Santa Brigida,
71/73. T: 0815524072 www.ciroasantabrigida.it
CRU…Do RÈ – The art of raw fish. Its interiors are
inspired by the marine world. Piazza Vittoria, 11/12. T:
0817645295 www.crudore.it
DA ETTORE – Since 1914, this epic trattoria has been
serving classic Neapolitan fare. Via Gennaro Serra, 39.
T: 0817643578
ECOMESARÀ – An array of tantalizing, sought-after
dishes and a welcoming ambience combine to
make diners feel completely at home. Via S. Chiara,
49. T: 08119259353 www.ecomesararistorante.it
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DINING
DINING
VESPA FOOD TASTING TOUR
COAST&ISLANDS
NEW!
AGLIO, OLIO E POMODORO – Via Luigi
Mazzella, 84, Ischia Ponte. T: 08119143460 www.
aglioolioepomodoro.com
Opening
ALBERTO – Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 8, Ischia.
T: 081981259 www.albertoischia.it
AL CONVENTO – Via Luigi Mazzella, 63, Ischia. T:
081991335 www.ristorantealconvento.com
AL CONVENTO – Piazza San Francesco, 16, Cetara. T:
089261039 www.alconvento.net
AL GROTTINO – Via Longano, 27, Capri. T:
0818370584 www.ristorantealgrottino.net
>> An original, immersive experience amidst alleyways, aromas,
guided tasting sessions and memorable meetings with pizza makers,
pastry makers and local artisans to learn about the secrets of their
art and the history of the famed gastronomic tradition of Naples.
An opportunity to discover unknown places and savour the best
culinary specialities of Naples on board either a Vespa or a vintage
Fiat 500, accompanied by expert drivers and bi-lingual city guides.
Daily. Booking required. Duration: 4 hours
www.napolinvespa.it
A’ PARANZA – Via Dragone, Positano. T: 089871840
www.ristoranteparanza.com
ATTIMO DI VINO – Via Porto, 103/105, Ischia. T:
08119528411
NATURASÌ
Galleria Vanvitelli, 7/9, Naples
T: 08118893010 - 08118893011
www.naturasi.it
GRAN GUSTO – A market, restaurant, wine bar and
bar. A gastronomic hub where gourmands can
sample premium-quality products and experience
a true love of cuisine. Via Marina, 5. T: 08119376800
www.gran-gusto.it
LA TAVERNA DEL BUONGUSTAIO – Simple
wooden tables and chairs, wax table cloths and
a low-fuss, white tiled dining room. Serves a
delightful array of daily specials. Vico Basilio Puoti, 8.
T: 0815512626
IL CELLAIO – The ideal spot to eat high-quality meat,
savour fine wines and discover sought-after cheeses.
Via Carlo Poerio, 54. T: 0817641380 www.ilcellaio.com
LA TAVERNA DELL’ARTE – Don Alfonso re-proposes
ancient 17th century recipes at this pretty, homely
restaurant. Rampe San Giovanni Maggiore, 1. T:
081552758
LA CAMPAGNOLA – Typical Neapolitan cuisine
since1946. Designed to seat up to about 50 diners,
it has been spruced up with local art and offers a
number of lip-licking pasta dishes. Via Tribunali, 47. T:
081459034
LA CANTINELLA – Founded in 1976 by Giorgio
Rosolino, its name has become a byword with
gourmands in the know. Via Cuma, 42, Santa Lucia. T:
0817648684 www.lacantinella.it
LA CHITARRA – A dozen tables, terracotta flooring,
a guitar on the wall and a warm welcoming
atmosphere. This cosy osteria dishes up traditional
food prepared with local, strictly seasonal
ingredients. Rampe San Giovanni Maggiore, 1 b. T:
081 5529103 www.osterialachitarra.it
LA STANZA DEL GUSTO – Quirky, brightly-coloured
tables and chairs decorate the dining room
whose walls are covered with large blackboards
featuring famous quotes and thoughts for the
day. Via Costantinopoli, 100 T: 081401578 www.
lastanzadelgusto.it
LE COLONNE – The ideal setting for a cuisine that
does not escape the challenges of the great dishes
of Italian and international cuisine, as well as offering
typical dishes from Campania. Viale G. Douhet, 7,
Caserta. T: 0823467494 www.lecolonnemarziale.it
LEON D’ORO – Tradition, meticulous service and
innovation are the key words of its cuisine. Piazza
Dante, 48. T: 0815499404
LOCANDA ‘NTRETELLA – Set within the heart of
the Spanish District, it tempts diners into a warm,
typically Neapolitan atmosphere. Salita S. Anna di
Palazzo. T: 081427783 www.locandantretella.it
MATTOZZI EUROPEO – Traditional Neapolitan
cuisine since 1930. Not only the finest Mediterranean
cuisine and pizza but also courteous, highly
attentive service. Via Marchese Campodisola, 4/8. T:
0815521323 www.mattozzieuropeo.com
MIMÌ ALLA FERROVIA – Established in1944 by
Emilio Giugliano (Mimì) and his wife Ida. This
no-frills trattoria was formerly patronized by the
likes of Totò, De Filippo and Federico Fellini. Via
Alfonso D’Aragona, 19/21. T: 0815538525 www.
mimiallaferrovia.it
NAPOLI MIA – Welcoming, elegant and low-key: a
style reflected in its cuisine boasting delectable,
mouth watering dishes where no detail has been left
to chance. Riviera di Chiaia, 269. T: 0815522266 www.
ristorantenapolimia.it
OSTERIA LA MATTONELLA – Just one room
adorned by long wooden tables and benches. Its
walls are covered with old, hand-painted Neapolitan
tiles. Via Nicotera, 13. T: 081416541
FRIARIELLI. Turnip tops and a variety of the
broccoli family. Often cooked in a pan, the
steam given off by their water is sufficient to
cook them. An excellent accompaniment to
sausages.
ROSIELLO – Founded in1933 by Gelsomina Rosiello,
its time-honoured recipes have been handed down
from generation to generation. Via Santo Strato, 10. T:
0815752341 www.ristoranterosiello.it
TERRAZZA CALABRITTO – A not-to-be-missed
experience: authentic dishes and flavours further
enhanced by one of the most beautiful views
34  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
in Italy. Piazza Vittoria, 1. T: 0812405188 www.
terrazzacalabritto.it
TRATTORIA DELL’OCA – Refined yet relaxed, this
welcoming trattoria celebrates beautifully cooked
classics upgraded with an innovative twist. Via
Santa Teresa a Chiaia, 11. T: 081414865 www.
trattoriadelloca.it
UMBERTO – Umberto’s menu is rich and varied with
its main section built on traditional Neapolitan
recipes. Seasonal variations are made throughout
the year, the traditional Neapolitan pizza menu and
the exquisite family atmosphere all form part of the
Umberto identity. Via Alabardieri, 30. T: 081418555
www.umberto.it
VALÙ – Standouts at this charming, low-key restaurant
featuring soft lighting and live music are char-grilled
meat, risotto and an astute selection of fine wines.
Vico Lungo del Gelso, 80. T: 0810381139
www.valu.it
VERITAS RESTAURANT – Only serves products of
Campanian origin. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 141. T:
081660585 www.veritasrestaurant.it
ZI’ TERESA – Frescoed walls and ancient majolica-tiled
floors. This delightful venue boasts an evocative
terrace overlooking the wharf of Santa Lucia. Via
Borgo Marinari, 1. T: 0817642565 www.ziteresa.it
FRY SHOPS
ANTICA FRIGGITORIA SPACCANAPOLI – Its fried
food is served in a classical “coppetiello”, a paper cone
designed to absorb excess fat. Via Benedetto Croce,
42. T: 3473357240
CHIPSTAR – Only fresh, Dutch potatoes cut and fried
while you wait. More than 16 garnishes. Via Scarlatti,
186.
FIORENZANO – Renowned for all types of fried fare.
Via Pignasecca, 14. T: 3497810146
FRIGGITORIA VOMERO – Owned by the Acunzo
family, this legendary snack bar makes some of the
best deep-fried snacks in town. Via Cimarosa, 44. T:
0815783130
TUTINO – Famed for its “a libretto” (folded) pizza. Via
della Solitaria, 34. T: 0817645259
AURORA – Via Fuorlovado, 18-22, Capri. T:
0818370181 www.auroracapri.com
AURORA – Piazza Tasso 10/11, Sorrento. T:
0818781248 www.pizzeriaaurora.com
BAGNI D’ARIENZO – Via Arienzo, 16, Positano. T:
089812002 www.bagnidarienzo.com
BAGNI DELFINO – Via Marina Grande, 216, Sorrento.
T: 0818782038
BAGNI TIBERIO – Palazzo a Mare, 46, Capri. T:
0818377688 www.bagnitiberio.com
BAIA DEL CLIPPER – Via Porto, 48, Ischia. T:
0813334209 www.ristorantelabaiadelclipperischia.
com
BARRACUDA – Via Campagnano, 62, Ischia. T:
081902046 www.ristorantebarracuda.it
BELLEVUE SYRENE – Piazza della Vittoria, 5,
Sorrento. T: 0818781024 www.bellevue.it
BIANCO SUSHIBAR – Piazza Angelina Lauro, 38,
Sorrento. T: 0818074551 www.biancosorrento.com
BRUNO – Via Colombo, 157, Positano. T: 089875392
www.ristorantebruno.org
BUCA DI BACCO – Via Longano, 35, Capri. T:
0818370723
BUCA DI BACCO – Via Rampa Teglia, 4, Positano. T:
089875699 www.bucadibacco.it
CAMERA E CUCINA – Via Correale, 19, Sorrento. T:
0818773530 www.cameraecucina.it
CAPRI GARDEN – Via Roma, 50, Capri. T: 0818370003
CAPRI’S – Via Roma, 38, Capri. T: 0818377108 www.
capris.it
CASA E BOTTEGA – Via Pasitea, 100, Positano. T:
089875225
CHANTECLER’S – Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 38,
Sorrento. T: 0818075868 www.chanteclers.com
CHEZ BLACK – Via del Brigantino, 19/21, Positano. T:
089875036 www.chezblack.it
COCÒ – Piazzale Aragonese, Ischia. T: 081981823
COVO DEI SARACENI – Via Regina Giovanna, 5,
Positano. T: 089875878 www.covodeisaraceni.it
DA CICCIO – Via Luigi Mazzella, 32, Ischia. T:
081991686
DA COSTANTINO – Via Corvo, 107, Positano. T:
089875738 www.dacostantino.net
DA GABRISA – Via Pasitea, 221, Positano. T:
089811498 www.vilagabrisa.it
DA GAETANO – Via Delle Ginestre, 27, Ischia. T:
081991807 www.pizzadagaetano.it
DA GELSOMINA – Via Migliara, 72, Anacapri, Capri. T:
0818371499 www.dagelsomina.com
Where offers you the 10 rules to learn to
recognize the Real Neapolitan Pizza.
Here is the seventh.
THE SEVENTH RULE FOR RECOGNIZE
THE REAL NEAPOLITAN PIZZA
The pizza should be round,
with a diameter non
greater than 35 cm, the
crust has to be puffed up,
while the center has to be
max 4 mm thick.
Discover the ten rules to recognize real Neapolitan
pizza at www.wherenaples.com
DA GIGINO – Via degli Archi, 15, Sorrento. T:
0818773446 www.dagigino.com
DA GIOIA – Località Marina Piccola, Capri. T:
0818377702 www.dagioiacapri.com
LA FIGLIA DEL
PRESIDENTE
A Temple of Neapolitan
Pizza
DA GIORGIO – Via Roma, 34, Capri. T: 0818375777
www.dagiorgiocapri.com
DA LEOPOLDO – Via Scannella, 12, Forio, Ischia. T:
081907086 www.ristorantedaleopoldo.it
D’AMORE – Via Fuorlovado, 36, Capri. T: 0818370665
www.damorecapri.com
DA PAOLINO – Via Palazzo a Mare, 11, Capri. T:
0818376102 www.paolinocapri.com
DA PEPPINA DI RENATO – Via Montecorvo, 42, Forio,
Ischia. T: 081998312 www.trattoriadapeppina.it
DA TONINO – Via Dentecala, Capri. T: 0818376718
DA VINCENZO – Viale Pasitea, 172/178, Positano. T:
089875128 www.davincenzo.it
DIVINA SORRENTO – Piazza Sant’Antonino, 18,
Sorrento. T: 0818781883
DONNA RACHELE – Via Padre Serafino Cimino, 2bis,
Capri. T: 0818375387 www.donnarachele,com
DON PEDRO – Via Nastro Verde, 77, Sorrento. T:
0818073910 www.ristorantedonpedro.it
È DIVINO – Via Sella Orta, 10/A, Capri. T: 0818378364
www.edivinocapri.com
EDODÈ – Via Camerelle, 83, Capri. T: 081838 8252.
www.edodecapri.com
FARAGLIONI – Via Camerelle, 75, Capri. T:
0818370320 www.faraglioni.com
Cacialli’s family is one of the best known in
the pizza; Maria is the daughter of Ernesto,
the pizza maker who prepared the pizza for
Bill Clinton. She manages a place of rustic
atmosphere and elegant at the same time.
Don’t miss the fried and the other pizza, all
rigorously prepared at the time.
>> Via Grande Archivio 23/24
80138 - Napoli
Phone +39 081.081286738
www.lafigliadelpresidente.it
PIZZERIA GORIZIA
Eating well
is a tradition
FLUORO – Via Fluoro, 21/23, Sorrento. T: 0818774840
FUNICOLARE – Piazza Armando Diaz, Capri. T:
0818370363
GIARDINO EDEN – Via Nuova Cartaromana, 68,
Ischia. T: 081985015 www.giardinoedenischia.it
GIORGIO AL CUCCIOLO – Via La Fabbrica, 52,
Anacapri, Capri. T: 0818371917
GRADOLA – Via Gradola, Anacapri, Capri. T:
0818382326 www.gradolacapri.com
I GIARDINI DI TASSO – Via Santa Maria della Pietà,
30, Sorrento. T: 0818074145
IL BORGO – Via Nastro Verde, 44/46, Sorrento. T:
0818781827 www.ristoranteilborgo.it
IL BRACCONIERE – Via Falanga, Serrara Fontana,
Ischia. T: 081999436
IL BUCO – Seconda rampa Marina Piccola, 5,
Sorrento. T. T: 0818782354 www.ilbucoristorante.it
IL GERANIO – Via Giacomo Matteotti, 8, Capri. T:
0818370616 www.geraniocapri.com
IL GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI – Corso
Vittoria Colonna, Ischia. T: 081991150 www.
giardinodegliaranci.it
The pizza is the queen of the menu but you
can also enjoy the first dish home-made,
the local fresh fish and all the flavors of
the region. You will be conquered by our
pastas cooked in a wood oven. These are
just some of the specialties that we offer to
our customers in a friendly atmosphere and
family.
>> Via Albino Albini, 18/20 (Trav. Via Cilea)
80127 – Napoli
Tel: +39 081.5604642
www.pizzeriagorizia.it
w w w. w heretravel er. com  35
[DINING]
DINING
IL LEONE ROSSO – Via Marziale, 25, Sorrento. T:
0818073089 www.illeonerosso.it
LE AGAVI – Via Marconi, 127, Positano. T: 089875733
www.agavi.it
POSA POSA – Viale Pasitea, 165, Positano. T:
0898122377 www.hotelposaposa.com
IL MELOGRANO – Via G. Mazzella, 110, Ischia. T:
081998450 www.ilmelogranoischia.it
LE GOURMET À LA CARTE – Lungomare C.
Colombo, 23, Ischia. T: 081991544
POSEIDON – Via Pasitea, 148, Positano. T: 089811111
www.hotelposeidonpositano.it
IL MONASTERO – Castello Aragonese, Ischia. T:
081992435 www.albergoilmonastero.it
LE GROTTELLE – Via Arco Naturale, Capri. T:
0818375719
PULDÌ – Via degli Aranci, 13 b/c, Sorrento. T:
0818074038
IL PIRATA – Via Terramare, Praiano. T: 089874377 www.
ristoranteilpirata.net
LE GROTTELLE – Via Zatri, 3, Sorrento. www.
agriturismosorrentolegrottelle.com
IL POZZO – Via Tasso, 32, Sorrento. T: 0818774876
www.ilpozzoristorante.it
PUPETTO – Via Fornillo, 35, Positano. T:
089875087www.hotelpupetto.it
LE SIRENE – Via Spiaggia Laurito, 24, Positano. T:
089811580 www.lesirenepositano.com
IL QUISI – Via Camerelle, 2, Capri. T: 0818370788 www.
quisisana.com
LE TERRAZZE – Via Grotte dell’Incanto, 51, Positano. T:
089875874 www.leterrazzerestaurant.it
IL RICCIO – Via Gradola 4/6, Loc. Grotta Azzurra.
Anacapri, Capri www.capripalace.com
LE TRE SORELLE – Via del Brigantino, 27, Positano. T:
089875452 www.ristoranteletresorelle.it
IL RITROVO – Via Montepertuso, 77. Loc.
Montepertuso, Positano. T: 089812005 www.ilritrovo.
com
LIDO DEL FARO – Località Punta Carena, Capri. T:
0818371798 www.lidofaro.com
IL SARACENO D’ORO – Via Pasitea, 254, Positano. T:
089812050 www.saracenodoro.it
IL SOLITARIO – Via G. Orlandi, Anacapri, Capri. T:
0818371382 www.trattoriailsolitario.it
IL TORCHIO – Via Campagnano, 135, Ischia. T:
081901986 www.hotelristoranteiltorchio.it
ISIDORO – Via Roma, 19, Capri. T: 0818377252 www.
isidorocapri.com
KUKAI CAPRI – Via Listrieri, 7, Capri. T: 0818370498
www.kukai.it
LA BASILICA – Via Sant’Antonino, 28, Sorrento. T:
0818774790 www.ristorantelabasilica.com
L’ABATE – Piazza Sant’Antonino, 24, Sorrento. T:
0818072304 www.labatesorrento.it
LA CAMBUSA – Piazza Vespucci, 4, Positano. T:
089812051 www.lacambusapositano.com
LA CANZONE DEL MARE – Via Marina Piccola, 93,
Capri. T: 0818370104 www.lacanzonedelmare.com
LA CAPANNINA – Via Le Botteghe, 14, Capri. T:
0818370732 www.capanninacapri.com
LI GALLI – Viale Pasitea, 318, Positano. T: 089875655
www.villafrancahotel.it
LO GUARRACINO – Via Positanesi d’America, 12,
Positano. T: 089875488 www.loguarracino.net
RENDEZ VOUS – Via Camerelle, 4, Capri. T:
0818370788 www.quisisana.com
RICCIULILLO – Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo,
Ischia. T: 081993679 www.ricciulillo.it
RUCCIO – Piazza Marinai d’Italia, Sorrento. T:
0818074069 www.ristoranteruccio.com
SACRO E PROFANO – Via Tasso, 53, Sorrento. T:
08119004857 www.sacroeprofanosorrento.it
SANTA CROCE – Via Nocelle, 19, Positano. T:
089811260 www.ristorantesantacrocepositano.com
L’OLIMPO – Via Falanga, 7, Serrara Fontana, Ischia. T:
081999566
SOUL&FISH DA CATALDO – Via Marina Grande, 202,
Sorrento. T: 0818782170
www.ristorantedacataldo.com
LO SCOGLIO DELLE SIRENE – Via Mulo, 77, Capri. T:
0818370221 www.loscogliodellesirenecapri.com
SPICY – Via Capo, 82, Sorrento. T: 0818079063 www.
hotelspicy.com
LO SMERALDO – Via Marina Grande, 12, Capri. T:
0818375072
SQUARE – Piazza Angelina Lauro, 47, Sorrento. T:
0818074744
L’OSTRICARO – Via Porto, 40, Ischia. T: 081981845
www.ristoranteostricaro.it
STELLA MARIS – Via della Regione, 2, Capri. T:
089872463
LO ZODIACO – Piazzetta Angelo Ferraro, 2, Capri. T:
0818376332 www.lozodiacocapri.com
TASSO – Via Correale, 11, Sorrento. T: 0818785809
www.ristorantetasso.com
LUIGI AI FARAGLIONI – Via Faraglioni, 5, Capri T:
0818370591 www.luigiaifaraglioni.com
TAVERNA ALLEGRA – Via Santa Maria della Pietà, 30,
Sorrento. T: 0818784221 www.tavernallegra.com
LUNA – Viale Matteotti, 3, Capri. T: 0818370433 www.
lunahotel.com
TERRAZZA BOSQUET – Piazza Tasso, 34, Sorrento.
MAMMA GIOVANNA – Via Chiusarano, 6, Capri. T:
0818372057
TERRAZZA BRUNELLA – Via Tragara, 24, Capri. T:
0818370122 www.terrazzabrunella.com
TERRAZZA MARZIALE – Piazza F.S. Gargiulo, 2,
Sorrento. T: 0818074406 www.terrazzamarziale.com
LA COLOMBAIA – Via Camerelle, 2, Capri. T:
0818370788 www.quisisana.com
MAMMÀ – Via Madre Serafina, 11, Capri. T:
0818377472 www.ristorantemamma.com
LA FONTELINA – Via Faraglioni, Capri. T: 0818370845
www.fontelina-capri.com
MARINCANTO – Via Colombo, 50, Positano. T:
089875130 www.marincanto.it
TERRAZZA TIBERIO – Via Croce, 11/15, Capri. T:
0819787850 www.capritiberiopalace.it
LA LANTERNA – Via San Cesareo, 23, Sorrento. T:
0818781355 www.lalanternasorrento.it
MICHEL’ANGELO – Via Sella Orta, 10, Capri. T:
0818377220
TORRE NORMANNA – Via Diego Taiani, 4, Maiori. T:
089877100 www.torrenormanna.net
L’ALTRO VISSANI – Via Longano, 3, Capri. T:
08118990575 www.laltrovissanicapri.it
MONZÙ (PUNTA TRAGARA HOTEL) – Via Tragara, 57,
Capri. T: 0818370844 www.monzucapri.it
TORRE SARACENA – Via Marina Piccola, Capri. T:
0818370646 www.torresaracenacapri.com
L’ANTICA TRATTORIA – Via P.R. Giuliani, 33, Sorrento.
T: 0818071082 www.lanticatrattoria.com
MUSEO CARUSO – Via S. Antonino, 12, Sorrento. T:
0818073156 www.ristorantemuseocaruso.com
TRITONE – Via Campo, 5, Positano. T: 089874333
www.tritone.it
L’ARCA – Via Ciglio, 144, Serrara Fontana, Ischia. T:
081904226 www.ristorantelarca.it
NAIMA LOUNGE BAR – Via P.R. Giuliani, 45, Sorrento.
T: 0818781425 www.naimaloungebar.it
UN PIANO NEL CIELO – Via Capriglione, 17, Praiano.
T: 0898131333 www.unpianonelcielo.it
LA SPONDA – Via Colombo, 30, Positano. T:
089875066 www.sirenuse.it
NEXT 2 – Viale Pasitea, 242, Positano. T: 0898123516
www.next2.it
VELA BIANCA – Via Marina Piccola, 11, Sorrento. T:
0818781144 www.ristorantevelabianca.com
LA TAGLIATA – Via Tagliata, 22, Positano. T: 089875872
www.latagliata.com
‘O CANONICO 1898 – Piazza Tasso, 7, Sorrento. T:
0818783277 www.ristorantecanonico.com
VERDEMARE – Via Capo, 70, Sorrento. T: 0818782589
www.ristoranteverdemare.com
LA TAVERNA DEL LEONE – Via Laurito, 43, Positano.
T: 0898123168 www.latavernadelleone.com
‘O CAPURALE – Viale Regina Giovanna, 12, Positano.
T: 089811188 www.ocapuralepositano.com
VILLA RUBINACCI – Via Correale, 25, Sorrento. T:
0818073357 www.villarubinacci.it
LA TERRA – Via Tagliata, 14, Positano. T: 089811179
www.ristorantelaterra.com
‘O MURZILL – Via dell’Accademia, 17, Sorrento. T:
0810202371 www.omurzill.blogspot.it
LA TINAIA – Via Matteo Verde, 39, Forio, Ischia. T: www.
ristorantelatinaia.it
‘O PURTICCIULL – Rive Droite, Ischia. T: 081993222
www.porticciullo.it
LA TONNARELLA – Via Capo, 31, Sorrento. T:
0818781153 www.latonnarella.com
PALAZZO MURAT – Via dei Mulini, 23, Positano. T:
089875177 www.palazzomurat.it
LA VELA BIANCA – Via Marina Piccola, 11/13,
Sorrento. T: 08187881144 www.ristorantevelabianca.
com
PAOLINO – Via Palazzo a Mare, 11, Capri. T:
0818376102 www.paolinocapri.com
LA VIGNA DI ALBERTO – Via Garibaldi, 57, Ischia. T:
081901193
PETER’S BEACH – Via San Francesco, Marina Piccola,
Porto di Sorrento. T: 0818781879 www.petersbeach.
com
36  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
VILLA VERDE – Vico Sella Orta, 6/A, Capri. T:
0818377024 www.villaverde-capri.com
WINE DARK HOUSE – Via del Saracino, 6/8, Positano.
T: 089811925
ZI NANNINA – Lungomare Cristoforo Colombo, 18,
Ischia. T: 081991350 www.zinannina.com
ZI’NTONIO – Via Luigi De Maio, 11, Sorrento. T:
0818781623 www.zintonio.it
Typical products of the Sannio
A trip in discovery of ancient flavours
The Sannio is an ancient
area rich in valleys and hills
covered with olives groves and
vineyards interspersed with
small towns.
Here traditions and genuine country
cooking have withstood the test of
time. The area boasts a wide array of
enogastronomic products renowned
for their time-honoured qualities
whose virtues have been passed
down from generation to generation.
PIETRAROJA HAM
Naturally dried at 830 metres and seasoned with
black pepper and hot chili pepper, it is ideal as a
bite-sized appetizer.
Lightly salted and aromatized, it has a particularly
soft texture.
Its slightly smoked flavour depends on the
essences used during the smoking procedure
ww.prosciuttoilpietraroja.it
STREGA LIQUEUR
Made from herbs, it has been produced since 1860
by the Strega Alberti Distellery in Benevento using
a secret recipe. Its yellow color comes from the
presence of saffron in its recipe.
It has a 40% alcohol content and is made using
some 70 different herbs, including mint and
fennel.
THE NOUGAT
OF SAN MARCO DEI CAVOTI
A crunchy blend of prime quality almonds
and hazelnuts covered with an ultra-fine dark
chocolate.
This delicacy is a true precursor of the small
hazelnut-filled chocolate renowned throughout
the world under the ‘Baci’ trademark
www.borrillo.it
ARTICHOKES FROM PIETRELCINA
Tender and boasting a sweet, delicate flavour,
these artichokes are used to prepare any number
of mouth watering dishes.
The plant produces buds known as ‘carducci’
which are in great demand especially at Christmas
because they serve as the main ingredients of a
local dish known as ‘il cardone’.
LATICAUDA PECORINO
It takes its name from the breed of sheep with
whose milk it is made. It has a hard, firm rind,
yellowy-orange in colour. Its body is tender and
ivory-white in colour.
It has a mouth-filling, slightly tangy flavour and an
intense pungent nose.
This type of cheese is best eaten when mature.
WINE
Aglianico, Piedirosso, Falanghina, Coda di Volpe,
Fiano and Moscato di Baselice are just some
examples of Sannio’s wine-growing heritage. Ten
thousand hectares of vineyards, three DOC and
one IPG (Protected Geographic Indication) for
more than sixty types of wines which make the
province of Benevento a leader in Campania’s wineproducing sector
www.sanniodop.it
ZIQÙ – Via Provinciale Marina Grande, 191, Capri. T:
0818376630 www.villamarinacapri.com
w w w. w heretravel er. com  37
DINING | WINE EMOTION
THE MOST REPRESENTATIVE LABELS
occasions during which there innate elegance
and intensity can be savoured to the full. Why
not try them, for example, as connoisseurs do
in France, with cheese or fatty calves liver, or
even as an aperitivo option.
First and foremost, a sweet wine should not
be too sweet. It should be fresh and have
the kind of complexity that makes one want
to drink it. However, very few sweet wines
actually have these characteristics! As always,
everything starts in the vineyard. Not all
varietals are suited to making a noble sweet
wine.
Not only must the grapes must be extremely
healthy but often wine-makers do not have
the certainty that they will be able to be
produced on a yearly basis owing to the
complex production process involved.
Having said this, to preserve the acid
backbone of the grapes, it is necessary to
harvest them or cut their shoots (so that
they begin to shrivel on the vine) at exactly
the right moment: either early or on several
occasions.
The rest depends on the techniques
employed at the winery: the slow, natural
drying process of the grapes designed to
increase the sugar concentration, the style of
vinification and the use of specific types of
wood.
Lastly, the ageing process in bottles which
helps them develop more complexity.
Our sweet wine should be served in a
Sweet
Campania
The best sweet wines of the region should be drunk
in smaller glasses in order to allow us to savour their
bouquets and linger (read meditate) over their elegance
T
small glass with a narrow mouth, so that its
bouquet can be savoured to the full.
Il Sasso di Riccardo
Il Fastignano
Contrary to common belief,
not all sweet wines are white.
For example, a sweet, fullbodied, original sweet red
wine is produced from the
black Casavecchia grape.
The varietal has mysterious
origins: some identify it with the grape
that gave life to the ancient Trebulano,
considered one of Italy’s finest wines by
Plinius. The Casavecchia-based Sasso di
Riccardo di Terre del Principe is a truly
delicious wine that pairs well either with
the Conciato Romano pecorino cheese,
made specifically to be paired with it by the
beautiful Le Campestre agritourism, or with
other types of soft cheeses.
Fastignano, a highly original
Passito made from Primitivo
grapes is only produced very
rarely, not only for the small
quantity of juice which can
be obtained from the grapes,
but also for the difficulties found during
production, from vineyard to the bottle.
Antonio Papa has made a creed of the
selection of the grapes of this varietal which
is powerful and particularly well-suited to
the production of sweet wines. Fastignano
is sweet but not overwhelmingly sugary,
a meditation wine boasting a strong
personality. A gourmand companion to
be drunk either on its own or paired with
chocolate profiteroles or a slice of Sacher
Torte.
Il Privilegio
A perfect example of freshness,
balance and drinkability. The
Privilegio produced by Feudi
di San Gregorio, one of Irpinia’s
premier winemaking estates
with headquarters in Sorbo
Serpico and vineyards scattered
throughout Campania, instantly
wins over connoisseurs
with its elegant, transparent
bottle which contains a clear, yellow
gold liquid. The luminosity of this sweet
wine made primarily from Fiano grapes is
proportionate to its taste. Rich, sweet and
fragrant yet balanced with acidity, it has
a delightfully clean finish. This wine can
either be paired with the area’s traditional
Christmas Susamielli cookies or with a
Caciocavallo cheese, matured in caves in
Irpinia.
Giardini Arimei
A complex wine-making
project conceived by an
enologist who loves Ischia,
his birthplace of origin. Made
from Biancolella, Forastera and
Uva Rilla grapes, this ‘ wine from the area
of ‘hot springs’ is an original gem. Never
sweet, Giardini Arimei, produced on the
Island by the Muratori family, shows how
unexpected tastes can be obtained from
harvesting grapes at different times of the
year. It is sweet but also dry, extremely
well-balanced and highly versatile when it
comes to pairings. As suggested by pastry
maker Claudio Mignone or Executive
Chef Mario Avallone it serves as a perfect
accompaniment to either renowned
Neapolitan cake - pastiera napoletana - or
fresh Cacio cheese.
his month we will be focusing on a category
of truly special wines, also known as
meditation wines. We are here referring to
sweet wines, i.e. those commonly drunk at
the end of a meal.
Sadly, I must confess that, in Italy, these
wines are not as fully appreciated as they should be. This
is especially true of the South whose hot climate tends to
increase their sugar and alcohol content. Southerners are
not particularly fond of sweet wines. In fact, as far as the
Neapolitans are concerned, the best accompaniment to a
dessert is coffee!
Each wine has a sense as long as it can be paired with
Monica Piscitelli
food and wine
blogger
38  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
something. If we only consider drinking sweet wines as an
accompaniment to dessert, we tend to limit the number of
w w w. w heretravel er. com  39
ENTERTAINMENT
DINING
Five star flavors
The top restaurants of five star hotels in Naples and on the Coast&Islands
HOTEL BELMOND CARUSO, BELVEDERE –
Renowned for its excellent menu featuring fresh
Mediterranean specialities, the Belvedere restaurant
has an elegant dining room, a beautiful terrace and an
outdoor area, near the swimming pool, surrounded by
an old rose garden. Chef Mimmo di Raffaele amazes
diners with his delectably refined creations. Piazza San
Giovanni del Toro, 2, Ravello. T: 089858800
www.hotelcaruso.it
and delicacy of its marine surroundings. Lungomare C.
Colombo, 23, Ischia. T: 081.991544 www.puntamolino.it
GRAND HOTEL VESUVIO, CARUSO – Dedicated to
Enrico Caruso, a loyal patron of the hotel who liked to
define it as “my Neapolitan home” and who spent the
last years of his life here after his return to Naples. Via
Partenope, 45, Naples. T: 081.7640044 www.vesuvio.it
HOTEL IL MORESCO, LA PERGOLA – Mediterranean
flavours are exalted by a light, sophisticated cuisine,
CAESAR AUGUSTUS, LA TERRAZZA DI LUCULLO – A
created thanks to the use of authentic ingredients
date with infinity: a spectacular swimming pool, a table
distinguished by a highly sought-after delicate flavour.
for two and beyond, only the sea, the Gulf of Naples and
Via Gianturco, 16, Ischia. T: 081.981355 www.ilmoresco.it
Vesuvius. Via G. Orlandi, 4, Anacapri, Capri.
HOTEL ROMEO, IL COMANDANTE – At this gourmet
T: 081.8373385 www.caesar-augustus.com
restaurant, hints of the East and Mediterranean flavours
DON ALFONSO 1890 – In a stunning 19th century
blend harmoniously in the menu prepared by Michelin
Neapolitan palace, the design-inspired ambience of
starred Chef Salvatore Bianco. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 45.
the restaurant features a vibrant colour palette exalted
T: 0810175001 www.romeohotel.it
by the natural light of the Mediterranean sea. Corso
HOTEL
ROMEO, SUSHI BAR & RESTAURANT – Guests
Sant’Agata, 11-13, Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi.
can either dine at the restaurant’s gorgeous arabesque
T: 081.8780026 www.donalfonso.com
marble counter or at their own private tables. Suffused
GRAND HOTEL COCUMELLA – The hotel offers guests
lighting, ivory and ebony chopsticks, silverware, bone
two restaurants: the “Agrumeto”, nestling amidst orange
china and crystal glassware are just some of the
groves and the various botanical rarities of the age-old
exclusive elements that heighten the dining experience.
park surrounding it and the “Scintilla”, where diners
The menu features authentic Japanese cuisine prepared
can savour all the flavours of traditional Mediterranean
according to time-honoured culinary techniques. Via
Cristoforo Colombo, 45, Naples. T: 08101175001 www.
cuisine in a warm, intimate atmosphere. Via Cocumella,
romeohotel.it
7, Sant’Agnello, Sorrento. T: 081.8782933
www.cocumella.com
HOTEL TERME MANZI, IL MOSAICO – Renowned Chef
Nino Di Costanzo tempts diners into an atmosphere of
GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR TERME – A stylish, elegant
rare elegance with his classical Ischian and Campanian
restaurant surrounded by a large panoramic terrace. A
fare upgraded with an innovative twist. Piazza Bagni,
perfect blend of superior-quality ingredients and refined
4, Casamicciola Terme, Ischia. T: 081994722 www.
culinary techniques. Via E. Gianturco, 19, Ischia.
termemanzihotel.com
T: 081.991522 www.excelsiorischia.it
GRAND HOTEL EXCELSIOR VITTORIA, TERRAZZA
BOUSQUET – The Terrazza Bosquet Restaurant
headed up by Michelin starred Chef Luigi Tramontano
offers an elegant combination of regional and
Mediterranean cuisine, using fresh, local produce
including a variety of citrus fruits from the hotel’s own
orange grove. Piazza Tasso, 34, Sorrento. T: 0818777836
www.exvitt/bousquet
GRAND HOTEL PARKER’S, GEORGE – Situated
on the roof garden of the Grand Hotel Parker's in
Naples, George offers a stunning view over the Gulf,
sophisticated, stylish decor and a creative menu. Corso
Vittorio Emanuele, 135, Naples. T: 081.7612474
www.grandhotelparkers.it
GRAND HOTEL PUNTA MOLINO TERME, PUNTA
MOLINO – A romantic restaurant overlooking the
sea whose decor and materials mirror the coolness
IL BUCO – A sought-after, elegant atmosphere featuring
traditional tastes and flavours upgraded to create
innovative, delicious dishes. Seconda rampa Marina
Piccola, 5, Sorrento.T: 0818782354
www.ilbucoristorante.it
Chef Andrea Migliaccio creates cuisine in a modern
interpretation of the traditional flavours of the regione.
Via Capodimonte, 2/b, Anacapri (Na).
T: 0819780111 www.capripalace.com
HOTEL LE SIRENUSE, LA SPONDA – Boasting 1
Michelin star, in the evening this restaurant is illuminated
by four hundred candles. Its cuisine is based on the
quality of locally sourced ingredients and is inspired by
Mediterranean tradition. Via San Sebastiano, 2, Positano.
T: 089875066 www.sirenuse.it
HOTEL REGINA ISABELLA, INDACO – A gourmet
restaurant where the innovative, creative cuisine of chef
Pasquale Palamaro pays a new tribute to the culinary
tradition of Campania, cited in the 2013 Michelin guide.
Piazza Santa Restituta, 1, Lacco Ameno, Ischia.
T: 081.994322 www.reginaisabella.com
HOTEL SAN PIETRO, ZASS – At this venue featuring a
spectacular view over the town of Praiano and the coast,
Chef Alois Vanlangenaeker serves an array of delectable
dishes accompanied by an excellent selection of fine
wines. Via Laurito, 2, Positano.
T: 089875455 www.ilsanpietro.it
LA SCALINATELLA HOTEL – Typical Capri fare served
at the edge of the swimming pool with a stunning view
over the Bay of Marina Piccola. The Maitre offers the
dishes of the day, always prepared using fresh, locally
sourced, seasonal ingredients. Via Tragara, 8, Capri. T:
081.8370633 www.lascalinatella.com
MEZZATORRE RESORT E SPA – The hotel has
two restaurants: the “Chandelier”, sophisticated and
intriguing, and Sciuè”, offering fabulous sunset views
over the Ischian sea and the swimming pool. Via
Mezzatorre, 23, Forio d’Ischia. T: 081.986111
www.mezzatorre.it
PARCO DEI PRINCIPI, Ristorante GIO PONTI – The
restaurant extends over a large, seaview terrace from
which diners can enjoy a stunning view over the Gulf of
Naples. Via Rota, 44, Sorrento. T: 081.8784644
www.royalgroup.it/parcodeiprincipi
IL FARO DI CAPO D’ORSO – A small gem boasting
interiors decorated with hand-painted majolica ceramics
PALAZZO AVINO, ROSSELLINIS – The recipient of 1
and a breathtaking view. Via D. Taiani, 48, Maiori (Sa). T:
Michelin stars, Palazzo Avino is considered one of the
089877022 www.ilfarodicapodorso.it
most evocative and romantic venues on the Amalfi
Coast. Via San Giovanni del Toro, 27, Ravello.
HOTEL CAPRI PALACE, IL RICCIO – In a Mediterranean
www.palazzoavino.com
atmosphere, sitting at blue wooden tables, you can
have lunch and dinner almost every hour of the day. The
VILLA CIMBRONE, IL FLAUTO DI PAN – Chef Giovanni
restaurant is awarded with one star in the 2013 Michelin
De Vivo has created an outstanding Mediterranean
Guide. Via Gradola, 4/6, loc. Grotta Azzurra, Anacapri,
menu featuring innovative flavours and a hint of the East
Capri. www.capripalace.com
designed to delight the palates of discerning diners. Via
Santa Chiara, 26, Ravello.
HOTEL CAPRI PALACE, L’OLIVO – Is the only restaurant
T: 089857459 www.villacimbrone.com
on the island to be awarded with two Michelin stars.
40  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
Welcome to the Naples Zoo!
It is one of the oldest zoological gardens in Italy. Home to more than 400 animal species, it is also a
botanical garden and a recreational centre for families
O
pened to the public in 1949, the Naples
Zoo was one of the first zoological
gardens in Italy to welcome visitors.
Situated in the city centre, in Fuorigrotta, the
Zoo hosts more than 400 animal species,
including various species in danger of
extinction. Here you can admire Samiango,
lemurs, tigers, parrots, binturong, camels,
zebras and Chital deer but also lots of birds,
including emus, ostriches, grey crowned
cranes, pink flamingoes and stalks. Inside, an
educational farm allows children to get close
to and pet all sorts of farm animals including
geese, rabbits, goats and other domestic
animals.
The zoo is also a botanical garden, a park
brimming over with Mediterranean vegetation
and exotic species including Ginko Biloba of
Chinese origin, boasting small, fan-shaped
leaves but also various Magnolia SPP species,
of Chinese, Japanese and American origin
and bamboo originating from Asia. And
then again, near the lake, visitors can admire
Casuarina Equisetifolia, a she-oak species
whose foliage consists of slender branches
and hanging fruit resembling conifer cones.
Additionally, near the area housing the lions,
you will also find Cinnamomum Camphora,
commonly known as the Camphor tree, a
large evergreen tree that grows up to 20–30
m tall.
The Naples Zoo is also an important
recreational centre, especially for families and
children. Moreover, it plays a significant role
in terms of educating people about nature
and the environment, with projects dedicated
to scientific research and the preservation of
biodiversity. One such example is its ‘Adopt
an animal’ initiative which offers people the
possibility of adopting an animal from the
Zoo, thus giving them an opportunity to
come into close contact with their favourite
animal species: an intelligent way of teaching
children about nature and instilling them with
a sense of love for animals. Other highlights
include gardens, play areas and loads of
entertainment for young and old alike.
Via John Fitzgerald Kennedy, 76, Naples.
T: 08119363154
>> www.lozoodinapoli.it
wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples
w w w. w heretravel er. com  41
ENTERTAINMENT
ENTERTAINMENT AND
TASTING EXPERIENCES
ENTERTAINMENT
here to enjoy its piano bar, disco and occasional
cabaret acts, partying till late. Via Parco Margherita,
13. T: 081407526 www.chezmoi.it
SCENES FROM AN ARCHIVE
CLANDALU’ - A terrace overlooking the historic
Galleria Navarra. Credit for its inviting atmosphere
and soft music go to its charming owner
Alfredo. Featuring authentic, home-cooked fare,
it has hosted meetings, presentations and art
exhibitions since 1997. Piazza dei Martiri, 23. T:
0812452398
66 FUSION BAR - It still retains the name of the
former antique shop in which it is now housed.
The Fusion cocktail bar is a real hit, loved for its
endless list of aperitivi. Furnished with low sofas
and soft lighting, it offers a wide choice of cold
cuts and excellent wines. Via Bisignano, 58. T:
081415024 – www.66napoli.it
CLU COFFEE&FOOD - A welcoming, cosy tea room
by day, as evening approaches, it is transformed
into a trendy venue where the beautiful people
gather to enjoy either an aperitivo or an afterdinner glass of rum. Its real attraction is its
restaurant with open-plan kitchen boasting an
array of gastronomic delights and an excellent
selection of fine wines. Via Carlo Poerio, 47. T:
0817641576 www.clunapoli.com
AIAHII – One of the most exclusive venues in the
city. Low-key, elegant, minimalist decor, featuring
a prevalence of steel, glass, teak tables, original
lamps, ornamental plants and a predominantly
white colour scheme. Offers a meat and fishbased menu, an array of international cocktails,
an excellent selection of rum and whiskey and
an astute selection of wines. Via Coroglio, 146. T:
3924811308
ARENILE RELOAD – Established in 1994 as the first
club in Naples with a dance floor overlooking the
beach, Arenile Reload is set against a breathtaking
backdrop further enhanced by chic design
elements and a playlist of the latest hits. In the
morning, it serves as an elegant beach club with
on-site amenities including a beach and a lawn
with a swimming pool, bar and refreshment
area. As the sun sets, it is transformed into a
“viby” location offering top-notch aperitivi and
live performances by artists of international
renown. Via Coroglio, 14/b. T: 0810199156 www.
arenilereload.com
AZAR CAFÉ – Snack bar, delicatessen, bakery, bar
and tea room. Surrounded by a beautiful garden,
in the pedestrian area of Vomero, Azar cafè is a
meeting place for quiet and relaxing, ideal for
business meetings or for mothers with children
looking for a safe place while enjoying a good cup
of coffee. Via Scarlatti, 139 – T: 0815780248
BARFLY – Formerly an old tuft quarry, this newly
revamped restaurant and bar is the perfect place
to enjoy an aperitivo or fab cocktail while nibbling
on an array of delectable finger foods. Barfly was
designed by architect Demo Ciavatti, known for
restructuring several of the most famous venues
on the Romagnola Riviera. Via Mergellina, 6 T:
081.660023 –
www.dugout.it
BELLAVIA – In 1925, Antonio Bellavia relocated
from Palermo to Naples, bringing with him the
scents, colours and flavours of a region known for
its gastronomic culture. He soon began titillating
several of the city’s most refined palates with
cassata, cannoli and other specialities, a tradition
that has been carried forward with unerring
passion by the fourth generation of the family
who currently run the business. Capodichino
Airport. T: 0815991603 www.pasticceriabellavia.it
BIRDY’S BAKERY – Its colonial decor provides a
light, welcoming ambience, perfect for those
wishing to take a pit stop while enjoying a great
cup of coffee. Signature pastries include brioches,
ENOTECA BELLEDONNE - Established in1989 by
Giovanni and Maria Scognamiglio as “Vini e Oli”,
their offspring Antonio and Ciro subsequently
transformed this old wine cellar into one of Naples’
best-loved wine bars where you can relax, gossip
and enjoy a glass of well-chosen, mostly Italian
wine. Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 18. T: 081403162
www.enotecabelledonne.com
An unique performance staged by a company of young actors who re-enact one episode
that played a key role in the history of the city of Naples, namely the Republic of 1799. In “La
Repubblica di Utopia”, two love affairs are intertwined with the tragic episodes of this historic
event and two women, Luisa Sanfelice and Serafina Vargas, reclaim their right to building an
ideal nation based on the empowerment of women.
This ‘never-seen-before’ performance is the result of research conducted on documents
housed in the Archives and were written on an exclusive basis for the Archive itself.
19-20 November. Admission free, booking required.
Archivio Storico Banco di Napoli. via Tribunali, 213, Naples. T: 3396235295
crumbles, cupcakes, plum cakes, brownies, muffins
and speciality cakes. Vico Belledonne a Chiaia, 14b.
T: 0814976400
CAFFÈ ARABO – A good spot at which to sample
tea, Arab sweet treats and a Middle-Eastern
nibble or two. At Caffè Arabo you can experience
a truly oriental atmosphere while smoking a
hookah. In summer, it hosts gastronomic events
accompanied by dance displays and poetry
readings from different parts of the world. Piazza
Bellini, 72, Naples. T: 3398828120
CAFFÈ DEL PROFESSORE – At this cafè located
in one of the city’s most elegant districts you
can taste dozens of different coffee blends: from
fennel to basil-flavoured coffee, from croccantino
coffee to its famous rich hazelnut cream coffee
and, naturally, traditional Neapolitan espresso.
Piazza Trieste e Trento, 46. T: 081403041 www.
ilverobardelprofessore.com
CAKE APPEAL – A small pastry shop with a big
reputation serving made-to-order cakes, cupcakes,
macarons, cakepops, cookies, brownies, red velvet,
cheesecake and apple pie. The first American
bakery of its kind in Campania and Naples. Via
Cavallerizza, 40. T: 08119255750 www.cakeappeal.it
CAMBIOVITA– Cafeteria, frullateria, health food
store, take-aways, Slow fast food, but also a
meeting place where you can breathe the air of
the house. A place to take a break and take care
of yourself sipping tea, herbal tea or a smoothie
made with all biological products. Via Carlo Poerio,
100/a T: 08119570395 www.cambiovitastore.it
CARRATURO – Now helmed by the fifth
generation, this time-honoured pastry shop
continues to defend its heritage, history and
the goodness of its origins. Its present owners,
Ulderico and Alessandro, jokingly refer to
42  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
FANTASIA GELATI – Few gelaterie can boast better
cream-based flavours produced with passion
and painstaking attention to locally sourced
ingredients. House specialities include fruitflavoured sorbets and its brand new innovative ice
cream made from buffalo milk, characterized by
its authentic flavour and wholesome nutritional
properties. Five Fantasia Gelati sales points are
scattered throughout the city. Via Toledo, 381. T:
0815511212 www.fantasiagelati.it
themselves as simple “sfogliatellari”. Via Casanova,
97. T: 0815545364 www.carraturo.it
CASA INFANTE – The Infante family began to
titillate the palates of Neapolitans in the 1940s
with their “tarallo mandorle e pepe”. In the ‘90s
they enlarged their production to focus on highquality patisserie, subsequently increasing their
number of sales points. Today Casa Infante offers
top-notch products and artisanal ice cream just
waiting to be savoured. Via Chiaia, 189. T: www.
casainfante.it
GALLERIA 19 – This cool edgy club draws a uni
crowd and young Neapolitan locals. Set in a
long, cavernous cellar scattered with recycled
furniture dating back to the ‘60s and ‘70s and
industrial lamps, the venue is also home to one
of the city’s best mixologists. Expect a warm, oldworld atmosphere. Via San Sebastiano, 18/19. T:
08119810100 www.galleria19.it
CHALET CIRO A MERGELLINA – This iconic
seaside chalet has been pulling in the punters
since its establishment in 1952. Boasting a
tradition handed down from generation to
generation, it has nevertheless also embraced
innovation to become one of the most renowned
chalets in Campania. Listed in several of the most
authoritative tourist guides, it sells everything
from coffee and pastries to crepes but the real
reason to head here is for brioche con gelato,
a sweetened bun stuffed with ice cream and
topped with a dollop of cream. Via Mergellina. T:
081669928
CHANDELIER - Visual arts exhibitions, themed
parties, live music, arts and crafts and jewellery
displays. At this stylishly furnished venue
everything is done with a certain flair including
its delightful red and black colour scheme. Its
atmosphere is cosy and low-key thanks to the
soft, diffused lighting given off by the chandeliers
and wall lamps from which it takes its name. Vico
Belledonne a Chiaia, 34/35. T: 081414576
CHEZ MOI - One of the most renowned hot spots
in the city, its exclusive clientele and posh decor
make Chez Moi the place to visit. Featuring all
the characteristics of a private club, designers,
socialites and football stars, mostly over 25, come
GAY ODIN – By now synonymous with auteur
chocolate, it is impossible to pass this shop
without taking in the heady aromas of Gay Odin’s
artisanal cocoa creations displayed with panache
in its shop window. Must-trys include its typically
Neapolitan chocolate “cozze” (mussels), chocolatecoated coffee beans and fiery chili-chocolate
combo. The venue has as many as ten sales points
scattered throughout the city. Via V. Colonna,
15/b. T: 081418282 www.gay-odin.it
© EMILIA CHIARA SCOGNAMIGLIO
ANHELO CAFÉ’ & BISTROT – Offers simple,
inventive, high-quality food including range of
classic, regional dishes updated with a innovative
twist, featuring fresh, seasonal ingredients. Anhelo
is a cafè cum bistrot. Also boasts a small food
emporium. Via Bisignano, 3 – T: 081.402432 www.
anhelo.it
squares in Naples and still retains all of its dreamy,
Belle Époque-like aura intact. A great place for
a classy coffee break. Via Chiaia, 1/2, corner of
piazza Trieste and Trento. T: 081417582 www.
caffegambrinus.com
GRAN CAFFÈ LA CAFFETTIERA – The favourite
haunt of businessmen and chic shoppers, this
elegant venue is renowned for its high-class
Neapolitan pastries and gastronomy. Boasting
elegant design elements where no detail has been
left to chance, it is patronized by the crème de la
crème of Neapolitan society. Piazza dei Martiri, 26.
T: 0817644243 www.grancaffelacaffettiera.com
IL BARETTO – A landmark venue situated in one
of the city’s most scenic areas, standouts include
its iconic “scherzetto” cocktail, made with rum,
pear juice and strawberry syrup poured into
two glasses, one inside the other, to be drunk
like a shot, i.e. all at once and its Acai special, a
fruit pulp sorbet, powdered guaranà, royal jelly,
ice and ginseng. Via Aniello Falcone, 300 b/c. T:
0815603200
IL FICO – This discotheque is set within a splendid
19th century villa. Complete with inside rooms,
welcoming private areas and a large terrace with a
view over the Gulf of Naples, it is the perfect place
to celebrate at all times of the yea. Via Tasso, 466. T:
081640146 www.discotecailfico.it
INTRA MOENIA - Founded in 1989 next to the
Greek-Roman walls of piazza Bellini, from which
the venue takes its name, i.e. intra moenia or
“inside the walls”. A stylish, elegant venue offering
food and wine, Intra Moenia also hosts exhibitions,
literary events, concerts and poetry readings.
Piazza Bellini, 70. T: 081451652
LA GARÇONNE - The perfect place to spend
an evening in the company of friends either
savouring the superb cuisine prepared by its chef
or enjoying an after-dinner drink animated by live
or disco music. Vico S. Maria a Cappella Vecchia,
10. T: 0817643826 www.lagarconne.it
LA MELA - One of the oldest night club in Naples,
it has been going strong for the past 30 years. A
favourite with the Neapolitan elite, people come
here not only to dance but also to see fashion
shows or book presentations. Via dei Mille, 40bis. T:
081410270 www.lamelaclub.it
LA SCIMMIA – Synonymous with high-quality ice
cream since 1933, in addition to its myriad flavours,
other must-trys include its frothy desserts and
traditional mini ice creams. Also serves gluten-free
products for celiacs. Piazza Carità, 4; piazzetta Nilo,
4. T: 0815520272 www.gelateriadellascimmia.it
LA TASCA - A cosy, intimate wine bar where you can
listen to soft, piped music. Also has a few outdoor
tables and an Internet point. Vico Belledonne a
Chiaia, 6. T: 08119362635
LAZZARELLA – A landmark venue of the
Neapolitan “movida”. Open until late at night, it
serves breakfast, snacks, lunch and a fine aperitivo
spread in the evening from around 7pm. Calata
Trinità Maggiore, 7/8. T: 0815510005
L’EBBREZZA DI NOÈ – A brasserie-wine bar combo.
Only has a few tables but more than 1,200 fab
bottles. Better known for its reds than its whites.
Vico Vetriera, 9. T: 081400104 www.lebbrezzadinoe.
com
LE CIRQUE NAPLES – The first cafè-chantant
in Italy has just launched in the spaces of the
foyer of the iconic Salone Margherita. Le Cirque
is a coffee bar, a theatre, an art gallery and an
entertainment venue. It also features a bistrot
restaurant. Via Santa Brigida, 65. T: 0815511756
www.lecirquenaples.com
LEONE – A Liberty-style venue boasting a white
and pastel green colour scheme. Its walls are
adorned with old photographs. Its pastry chefs
start working at 4am to turn out their delectable
creations. Leone exudes an aura of old-world
charm and is renowned for its authentic, simple
ingredients. Riviera di Chiaia, 61. T: 081681542
LEOPOLDO - One of the most prestigious brands
of Neapolitan pastries, synonymous with all the
goodness and supreme quality of an array of
different products, ranging from sweet treats
to cakes, from fresh pasta to small gourmand
delicacies, a true labour of love! Via Toledo, 8.
T: 0815512909; via Vittoria Colonna, 46/47. T:
081416161 www.leopoldoinfante.it
LA TRAVIATA
GRAN CAFFÈ CIMMINO – A warm welcoming
place designed to make you feel good at all
times of the day. Its artisanal workshop turns out
authentic, high-quality, mouth watering goodies,
cakes and cocktails. Try its buffet selection,
high-class homemade ice cream and authentic
Neapolitan coffee. via Filangieri, 12. T: 081418303
GRAN CAFFÈ GAMBRINUS – Since 1860 Caffè
Gambrinus has served as the literary salon of
the city. Formerly one of the favourite haunts of
crowned heads, politicians, journalists, academics
and artists of international renown, including
the likes of Oscar Wilde and Benito Mussolini.
A Liberty-style jewel of architectural note, this
venerable café sits in one of the most beautiful
Giuseppe Verdi’s opera in three acts set to an Italian libretto by Francesco Maria Piave returns to
enthrall audiences at Teatro San Carlo. Based on ‘The Lady of the Camellias’, a play adapted from
the novel by Alexandre Dumas, it is part of a ‘popular trilogy’ which includes “Il Trovatore” and
“Rigoletto”. The version staged at San Carlo is directed by Ferzan Ozpetek, with co-direction by
Marina Bianchi. Scenery by Dante Ferretti and costumes by Alessandro Lai.
From 3 to 13 November
Teatro San Carlo. Via San Carlo, 98, Naples. T: 0817972331 www.teatrosancarlo.it
w w w. w heretravel er. com  43
ENTERTAINMENT
MADAME BONBON - A haven of handmade
chocolates but not only. Its upper floor houses
a welcoming tea room where in addition to an
assortment of delectable sweet treats you can also
sip a cup of hot chocolate, tea or other beverages.
When the shop closes, you can also book a
romantic, chocolate-based dinner while listening to
the soft, soothing notes of a violin. Vico Satriano, 4.
T: 08119567440 www.madamebonbon.it
MARSHAL - Its stylish interior, where no detail has
been left to chance, plays on the cold shades
of white and steel combined with the warm,
voluptuous shapes of Rococò furniture. Japanese
cuisine, cocktails, drinks, good wines and a
great selection of music. Vico Belledonne, 12. T:
3381458610
MOCCIA – Established in 1941, this bakery cum
patisserie offers an array of delectable goodies. The
venue is famed for its tiny, must-try pizzas whose
recipe is a close-guarded secret. Other specialities
include dainty strawberry tartlets, caramelized
bignè and traditional Neapolitan pastries. Each day,
at lunch, its rosticceria attracts a hungry business
crowd. Via San Pasquale, 21/23. T: 081411348
MOMAH - Reminiscent of one of the most important
contemporary art museums in the world, namely
the Museum of Modern Art (MoMa) in New York,
it will thrill your senses with its steel finishes, black
and white décor and innovative lighting system
ENTERTAINMENT
which creates a trendy ambience. Via Vito Fornari,
15. T: 081422334 www.momah.it
MOSTRA D’OLTREMARE - One of the largest
fairgrounds in Italy and, together with Bari’s Fiera
del Levante, the largest in Southern Italy. It extends
over a surface area of 720,000 square metres and
incorporates buildings of significant historical
and architectural importance, state-of-the-art
pavilions, fountains (including the monumental
Esedra Fountain), a tropical aquarium, gardens
hosting a wide array of arboreal species and an
archaeological park. Used to host trade shows,
congresses and events. Viale Kennedy, 54. T:
0817258000 www.mostradoltremare.it
MOTUS – A corner of Manhattan in Naples, this
venue is open from 7am to midnight. In between,
in addition to breakfast, you can stop in for a snack,
eat a pastry, sip an aperitivo, eat lunch, listen
to music or watch the news. Besides fabulous
homemade icre cream and mouth watering
pastries, it also offers a minimalist bistrot corner.
Piazza Municipio, 5/6. T: 0815520262 www.
motusinweb.it
MOUSE - Spread out over three floors, it features
a colour scheme based on shades of green and
electric blue. Its minimalist decor and casual, fun
feeling make it a destination venue for lounge
culture enthusiasts. Via San Giovanni Maggiore
Pignatelli, 45. T: 0815518663
NAIS - Here you can read, purchase books, sip a
cup of coffee or savour a delicious glass of wine.
Don’t miss its Sushi evenings with live music. Also
has an Internet point. Via Giuseppe Ferrigni, 29. T:
0816580466
PALAPARTENOPE - A modern building used to
host events, competitions, concerts, performances,
festivals and gala evenings. Designed to
accommodate up to 6,000 people. Via Barbagallo,
115 - T: 0815700008 www.palapartenope.it
PEPITA JAZZ - Top-level jazz and a good offer of food
and wine but also art exhibitions, cabaret, themed
Irish and Cuban evenings and wine and rum
tastings. Its signature dishes include soups, fondues,
cold cuts and cheese platters. Via Martucci, 39. T:
360629808; 3333821301
PESCHERIA MATTIUCCI – On Tuesdays, Thursdays
and Fridays, this landmark fishmonger offers some
of the best Mediterranean seafood and raw fish
dishes in town accompanied by a good selection
of fine wines and champagnes. Vico Belledonne a
Chiaia, 27. T: 0812512215
www.pescheriamattiucci.com
PINTAURO – One of the oldest pastry shops in
Naples, it has been turning out the region’s
renowned “sfogliatella” since 1785, considered
among the best in the city. Don’t miss a chance to
sample it while strolling through the historic centre:
crispy perfection for even the most discerning
palates. Via Toledo, 275. T: 081417339
CURATED BY FEDERALBERGHI NAPOLI
TIP
Customer satisfaction: a tool for tourists and hoteliers
to guarantee a better service
T
he best way to offer a good
but also the pages of social networks and
for hotel managers who thus have a chance
product? To listen to customer
intermediaries are a precious work tool
to determine not only the negative aspects
expectations. A philosophy that can
which, if handled professionally, become
of the customer experience but also those
be applied to numerous sectors including
an excellent means of detecting efficiency
of the city in order to offer a better, more
tourism. Nowadays, all hoteliers must have
or inefficiency. Thanks to data collection,
appealing product.
an in-depth understanding of customer
operators can, for example, tap into the
expectations and, as a consequence,
traditions, customs and habits of a customer,
increasingly focus on a policy of customer
based on his/her nationality. Obtaining
satisfaction.
feedback about a tourist’s spending power,
Tourists are invited to dedicate just a
culinary tastes, clothing or sightseeing
few minutes to filling out a form that
preferences means satisfying his/her
will give members in the hospitality
expectations. The result? Not only will
industry a chance not only to survey their
tourists keep coming back but they will
requirements but also to learn about any
also serve as the number one promotional
problems or negative aspects encountered
vehicle of the city.
during their stay.
Customer satisfaction is therefore a tool that
In a world in which web reputation assumes
not only makes tourists feel better protected
an increasingly important role, the tourist’s
because they have the power to judge the
opinion is ‘law’. Therefore, questionnaires
services received but also one that is useful
44  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
SCATURCHIO – A time-honoured pasticceria and
a true “temple of taste”, this cult destination is a
must for gastronomes and lovers of tradition.
An institution in the art of pastry-making for real
connoisseurs of taste. A city tradition for more
than a century, you’ll find an array of local classics
ranging from coffee to aperitivi, from sweet
treats to savoury delicacies. Piazza San Domenico
Maggiore, 19. T: 0815517031 www.scaturchio.it
S’MOVE - One of the most evocative musical food
bars in Naples. Bulbous lamps and futuristic wall
panels create plastic effects that are mirrored in the
curved elements of its beautiful bar counter and in
its light reflected onto it mosaic, mother-of-pearl
tiles. An aperitivo hot spot in Naples, DJs spin out
an array of jazz, funk and electro music. Vico Sospiri,
10. T: 0817645813
SUGAR QUEEN - A world of sweetness, color and
creativity that involves all five senses, and where
dreams turn into reality. Sugar Queen, the Queen of
Cakes is a laboratory of high quality confectionery,
design view, specialized in making custom cakes
of all kinds. Raw materials of superior quality and
aesthetic perfection of the cake design. Via Carlo
Poerio, 42. T: 08119138422 www.sugarqueen.it
UPSTROKE – This venue represents a launch pad
for countless emerging musicians. It is patronized
by people of all ages who have a passion for
music. Tuesdays are given over to jam sessions. Via
Coroglio, 128. T: 3294211510
VINARIUM - A welcoming wine bar cum trattoria,
Vinarium boasts one of the city’s best-stocked wine
cellars (850 Italian and foreign bottles) and culinary
specialities inc cheese fondues and cosmopolitan
meat dishes. Also offers a fab selection of grappas.
Via Cappella Vecchia, 7. T: 0817644114
THEATRES
AUGUSTEO - One of the most famous theatres in
Naples, it is known for its big-budget performances
including musicals, plays, comedies, dance and
prose. It is also home to the Carlo Buccirosso actors’
school - piazzetta Duca d’Aosta, 263 - 081.414243
and 081.406698 - www.teatroaugusteo.it
BELLINI - One of the most beautiful theatres in
the city, it can be visited during the day. Visitors
can clamber up its narrow staircase leading to
its small rehearsal room hosting billboards of old
performances patiently collected by Tato Russo,
one of the greatest actors and playwrights in
Italy - via Conte di Ruvo, 14 - 081.5491266 - www.
teatrobellini.it
GALLERIA TOLEDO - Set within the heart of the
Spanish Districts, it is known on the Neapolitan
theatre scene for its contemporary, experimental
works and also stages pieces by well-known
international playwrights - via Concezione a
Montecalvario, 34 - 081.425824
TEATRO MERCADANTE - It opened in 1779 as the
‘Teatro del Real Fondo di Separazione’, with comic
operas sung mainly in Tuscan. The theatre was
later used by Gioachino Rossini who became the
music director of the royal theatres, Giovanni Pacini
and Gaetano Donizetti. After a period of relative
inactivity, in 1871 it was renamed the Real Teatro
Mercadante – piazza Municipio – 081.5510336 –
www.teatrostabilenapoli.it
TEATRO NUOVO - Shakespeare, Beckett and
Pasolini are just some of the playwrights whose
work has been showcased here. An extremely
modern theatre, It provides a stage for emerging
European writers and is known for its innovative
approach and experimental works - via
Concezione a Montecalvario, 16 - 081.425958 www.
nuovoteatronuovo.it
TEATRO POSILLIPO - An offshoot of the historic
landmark Posillipo cinema - a reference point since
the 1950s for cinema buffs - the Posillip Theatre is
a versatile, elegant location and events space set
against the charming backdrop of the Posillipo hill.
Via Posillipo, 66 – www.teatroposillipo.it
TEATRO SAN CARLO - One of Naples’ crown jewels,
the San Carlo Theater is the Oldest Opera House
in Europe. Built 41 years before La Scala in Milan
and 55 years before la Fenice in Venice, its design
was the model on which many, and if you ask a
Neapolitan, all other Opera Houses would follow.
Built for King Charles III in 1737, it was inaugurated
on his name day or onomastico. With its 3,300
seats and pitch perfect acoustics, it quickly became
the venue of the masters and the dream of the
hopefuls, making Naples the music capital of
Europe - via San Carlo, 98 - 081.7972331 - www.
teatrosancarlo.it
COAST & ISLANDS
AFRICANA FAMOUS CLUB - A unique, evocative
haunt, an accordion player hidden amidst the rocks,
a black band, illustrious guests like Jackie Kennedy
and Gianni Agnelli. For years, the Africana has
been the setting for “La Dolce Vita” on the Amalfi
coast. Via Terramare, 2, Praiano. T: 089874858 www.
africanafamousclub.com
AL MONASTERO - The perfect place for a pit-stop,
it features a terrace garden with tables set amidst
bougainvillea, broom, jasmine and verbena
overlooking the ruins of the Cathedral dell’Assunta,
in the bay of Sant’Anna. Castello Aragonese, Ischia.
T: 081992435
ANEMA E CORE - Situated in the vicinity of the
famous Piazzetta, amidst prestigious boutiques
and luxury hotels, this stylish gem is tucked away
behind an “almost” hidden door, the entrance of
one of the most highly patronized and renowned
venues on the Capri nightlife scene. An exclusive,
age-old wine bar, where Guido Lembo, a
spokesman for the Faraglioni throughout the
world, entertains guests on the Island of Capri
from midnight to dawn. Via Sella Orta, 1, Capri. T:
081.8376461 T: 329.4742508
www.anemaecorecapri.it
BLUNIGHT - An atmospheric location with a great
vibe. Blunight is one of the most elegant and
attractive discotheques in the area. Cala di Puolo,
via Partenone, 31, Massalubrense. T: 3384138123;
3382227911; 3392547000
CALISE – Since the Sixties, Calise has been a meeting
place either for an aperitivo or dessert. While sitting
in its stunning garden, guests can spend a relaxing
evening listening to traditional Neapolitan songs.
Offers a wide selection of cakes (more than 50) and
biscuits. Piano bar entertainment every evening.
Piazzale degli Eroi, Ischia. www.barcalise.it
CAMERA E CUCINA - A restaurant cum art gallery.
A place where one eats Italian but talks all the
languages of the world. A hub of entertainment
where you will discover a host of intriguing worlds
and a diverse culinary landscape in an evocative
welcoming garden bar. Via Correale, 19, Sorrento. T:
081.8773530 www.cameraecucina.it
CIRCOLO DEI FORESTIERI - A favourite haunt
with tourists from all over the world, in addition
to its breathtaking panorama, it also offers all the
flavours and specialities of the Sorrento Coast. Via
Luigi de Maio, 35, Sorrento. T: 081.8773263 www.
circolodeiforestieri.com
CONWINUM – Jazz, food, wine and art, sensual
pairings that involve all of the senses in an elegant
venue, entirely decorated with Vietri ceramics and
lava stone tables. Offers live music and a piano bar
thoughout the week and live music on Saturday.
This venue, owned by Elio Rispoli, serves food
prepared by the “Don Alfonso 1890” restaurant
and features works of art lent by gallerist Antonio
Miniaci. Via del Brigantino, Positano. T: 089811461
EXCTASY - A nightspot and piano bar situated in
the heart of Ischia offering great live music. Corso
Vittoria Colonna, 97. Ischia. T: 081.982569
FAUNO - A landmark nightclub in Sorrento which,
since the 1950s has been a meeting place and
destination venue for tourists, fashionistas and
Campania jet-setters. The dance floor can be
accessed by an illuminated stairway covered by a
red carpet that anticipates the dominant colour of
the club. Piazza Tasso, Sorrento. T: 081.8781021
GIARDINO DEGLI ARANCI - An old tavern set
against a magnificent natural backdrop, with
its marvellous plants and the architecture of
the “palazzi” surrounding its garden are further
enhanced by the warm welcome given by patron
Andrea Impagliazzo and the flavours of its high-end
cuisine which make it a “must-visit” destination for
tourist. Corso Vittoria Colonna, Ischia. T: 081.991150
www.giardinodegliaranci.it
JANE - Since the very beginning it has been a cult
destination for celeb tourists. It glass-fronted side
walls mean that you can dance while enjoying
a fabulous view over the sea and small, adjacent
beach. Via Pagoda, Ischia. T: 08119515130
LA CAPANNINA PIU’ – Offers a great selection
of wines, bubbly and distillates but also honey,
balsamic vinegar, superb olive oil and a rich array of
gift and wine-related accessories. Via Le Botteghe,
39, Capri. T: 0818378899 www.capanninacapri.com
MUSIC ON THE ROCKS - For 40 years, one of
Europe’s original superclubs, patronized by
show biz celebs and international film icons. It is
considered one of the most evocative locations in
the world. Via Grotte dell’Incanto, 51, Positano. T:
089.875874; 331.7210076 www.musicontherocks.it
‘O SPASSO – A discotheque located within the
heart of the popular Bar “Calise”, of which it is an
integral part. This exclusive stylish venue stages live
music and cabaret entertainment and caters to a
fashionable set. This legendary nightspot attracts
punters of all ages. Via E. Cortese (corner of Piazza
degli Eroi), Ischia. T: 081.881270 www.barcalise.com
VALENTINO - Set against one of the most
evocative, trendiest backdrops in Ischia, Valentino
is considered a temple of entertainment and
good music and is currently the hottest disco
on the Island. Corso Vittoria Colonna, 97, Ischia. T:
081982569
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WHERE NOW | ENJOY NAPLES
The Lungomare of Pozzuoli
Serapis temple, Pozzuoli
From Pozzuoli to Baia, from
the thermal baths to nightspots right up to
guided tours of Solfatara and Rione Terra,
here are Where’s picks of unmissable night time
experiences
SIGHTSEEING
B
Pozzuoli is the most important centre of the
looked more than 2,000 years ago: an open-air
pools rich in precious natural elements that help
volcanic area that extends North-West of Naples (the term
Phlegrean nightlife scene. Its clubs are a go-to
museum featuring the entire history of Pozzuoli.
rejuvenate the body. The Stufe di Nerone are
‘Phlegrean derives from the Greek word Flegraios and means
destination for young people in search of relaxing
(www.rioneterra.it).
located in Bacoli and boast more than 20 hot and
‘burning’). An area of outstanding geological interest, it is
atmospheres, fun and good food. Its most
Another highly evocative experience is a night tour
cold springs. Other on-site amenities include a
renowned for its beautiful lakes and cultural treasures. Here,
popular places include the Lungomare and the
of the crater of Solfatara, one of the forty volcanoes
semi-Olympic swimming pool, heated to 35°C,
for example, you will come across several must-see landmark
port, packed with loads of vibrant nightspots:
comprising the Phlegrean Fields, located at a
also open in winter, and an indoor swimming
attractions including Capo Miseno, the largest military port of ancient Rome,
small restaurants serving deliciously fresh fish,
distance of some three kilometers from the centre
pool, heated to 40°C, whose energized warm
the Greek city of Cuma, the Parco Archeologico Sommerso in Baia, with
wine bars, sandwich bars and pizzerias. For those
of Pozzuoli: experienced tour guides enlighten
waters relax tight muscles and stimulate the
its villas and temples lying below sea level and the Rione Terra in Pozzuoli,
in search of a unique experience we suggest a
visitors about its history, scientific background and
release of endorphins. On Tuesdays, Thursdays and
with its Roman town unearthed during an excavation campaign. These and
guided tour of the underground world of Rione
mythology as they lead them up to its fumaroles
Fridays, the ‘Stufe’ remain open until 11pm (www.
many other natural treasures make the Phlegrean Area a sought-after tourist
Terra, an evocative archaeological site dating
where fresh blue fish, accompanied by a delicious
termestufedinerone.it). Alternately, the Thermal
destination where, both in summer and winter, visitors can enjoy a vibrant
back to 194BC. The seat of numerous historical
local wine, is cooked at 160°C using the steam from
Baths are located in Agnano. On-site amenities
nightlife scene.
events, from the first years of Greek and Roman
one of its fumaroles. The tour lasts for around two
include two outdoor thermal pools and four
One of the hottest clubs in the area, offering the ultimate nightlife
colonization to the present time, it still boasts a
hours (www.vulcanosolfatara.it).
indoor pools with hydromassage; a large green
experience, is Nabilah. Located on the famous Romana di Bacoli Beach, at
trove of ancient ruins, overlaid by bits and pieces
For Spa enthusiasts, we suggest a visit to the
poolside area, complete with sun loungers and
of successive civilizations. In its underground
Terme di Agnano (Thermal Baths of Agnano)
umbrellas, make a day at this oasis of peace even
spaces, an almost intact archaeological itinerary
and the Stufe di Nerone (Nero’s Stoves), the two
more inviting (www.termediagnano.it).
gives visitors an idea of how the site must have
most famous spa complexes in the area boasting
night, this elegant, sophisticated beach resort attracts a slew of national
and international celebrities. It boasts beautiful scenery, quality shows,
international DJs and talented musicians.
46  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
Thermal Baths of Agnano
y the name “Phlegrean Area” we intend the enormous
PH. RERINKIN
The Phlegrean
Area by night
The Submerged Archaeological Park of Baia
w w w. w heretravel er. com  47
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
The Vertebra
Oracle in
Naples 2015
the exterior, under a magnificent colonnade, you
can see the statues of the four cardinal virtues and
the three theological virtues while, at the sides of
the stairway you will find two equestrian statues of
king Ferdinand and his father, Charles III of Spain.
Open Mon-Sat 6.45am-12-noon and 4.30pm7.30pm - piazza del Plebiscito - T: 081.7645133
CITTÀ DELLA SCIENZA - The science museum
pride of the city, which attracted thousand of
visitors every year, was almost entirely destroyed
by an arson attack that shook Naples, Italy and the
whole world on March 4 2013. A huge loss that is
already being remedied with the reconstruction.
The pavilions that at the moment are available
are few: Science Centre, Officina dei Piccoli, Teatro
Galileo 104, where it operates the cooperative Le
Nuvole, the Congress Centre and the Science Store
– Open Tue-Sat 9am-3pm; Sun 10am-5pm; closed
on Monday – Via Coroglio, 104 - T: 081.7352424 – T:
0817352220 – www.cittadellascienza.it
Rebecca Horn returns in Naples with a
personal exhibition featuring sculptures
and drawings related to poetry. Also on
display, her imposing sculpture entitled
“Revelation of a Tree”
A
personal exhibition by Rebecca Horn, one of the
most versatile and creative artists of our times,
who works across different media including
sculpture, installations, performances, painting, film and
poetry. Over the past forty years, she has produced
a highly complex oeuvre that is grounded and bound
together by an ongoing meditation on metaphysical
issues and a deep existential desire.
Her last exhibition at Studio Trisorio in Naples was in
2012 when – exactly ten years after her installation
‘Mother of Pearl Spirits’ in Piazza del Plebiscito – she
returned with her ‘Capuzzelle’ exhibition to re-examine
themes of rebirth and the reciprocity between the
dimension of life and death. ‘Capuzzelle’ (cast-iron
skulls) continued to feature in her work for many years,
at different museums across the world, including Berlin,
New Delhi, Maribor and Moscow and, most recently, at
Llotja in Palma di Maiorca.
Her exhibition in Naples will feature sculptures and
drawings related to poetry, including, first and foremost,
“Vertebra Oracle for the future”. Her imposing sculpture
entitled “Revelation of a Tree” will also be on display. The
sculpture features tree limbs cast in bronze sitting on a
polished steel table; amid the branches, a ring of brass
spindles opens and closes slowly, evoking a decelerated
heart valve, or perhaps a spider enveloping its prey.
The works of Rebecca Horn have been displayed at
personal exhibitions at several of the world’s most
important museums including the Guggenheim
Museum in New York, the Tate Gallery in London, the
Nationalgalerie and the Martin-Gropius-Bau in Berlin,
the Museum of Contemporary Art in Tokyo and the
Centro Cultural Banco do Brasil in Rio de Janeiro and San
Paolo. In 2010, she founded the Moontower Foundation.
In Italy, her installations are part of permanent
collections at the MADRE museum in Naples and at the
Castello di Rivoli Museum of Contemporary Art in Turin.
wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples
48  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
The exhibition focuses on the painting of the seventeenth century Neapolitan artists or
followers of the Baroque artist Caravaggio who had ties with Naples including Artemisia
Gentileschi, Luca Giordano and Mattia Preti, but also the Fate Presto painting by Andy Warhol
from the Reggia di Caserta. A villa confiscated from a boss of the Camorra, and now dedicated to
the memory of Don Peppe Diana, a priest murdered in his church by the clan’s hit men in 1993,
has become a museum hosting works of art originating from the Uffizi Gallery in Florence.
Until 21 October. 10.30am to 8.30pm
Casa di don Diana. Via Urano, 18, Casal di Principe, Caserta
MONUMENTS & PLACES
OF INTEREST
CASTEL DELL’OVO - According to ancient
Neapolitan legend, its name stems from the egg
which Virgil, the Latin poet, supposedly hid in its
foundations to support the fortifications. The place
where the egg was preserved was closed by heavy
locks and kept secret because it was believed
that all the facts and fortunes of Castel Marino
depended upon it. From that time onwards, the
fate of the castle and the entire city, was linked to
that egg. The castle’s fortifications and terrace offer
a breathtaking view over the gulf – Open Mon-Sat
8am-7pm, Sun 8am-2pm – Borgo Marinaro – T:
081.2400055
CASTEL NUOVO - Also known as Maschio Angioino,
it is one of the most recognizable symbols of the
city built in 1279 by Charles I, king of Naples, as
a royal residence for the House of Anjou. From
the time that it was built, it was termed “New” to
distinguish it from the older Castles of Ovo and
Capuano. Worthy of note are its underground
passages, its two towers and its courtyard, from
which you can enjoy a fabulous view, its gallery and
Piazza d’armi.
Open Mon-Sat 9am - 7pm - via Vittorio Emanuele
III - T: 081.7955877
COURTESY STUDIO TRISORIO
Until 31 December
>> www.studiotrisorio.com
Studio Trisorio. Riviera di Chiaia, 215, Naples.
T: 081414306
THE UFFIZI AT CASAL DI PRINCIPE
CASTEL SANT’ELMO - The first documented
information regarding the castle dates back to
1275. This star-shaped castle was originally a church
dedicated to St. Erasmus. In 1329 it was enlarged at
the behest of Robert of Anjou, who transformed it
into a real palatium for himself and his court. Later
Spanish viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo had it further
fortified in 1538. Used as a military prison until the
1970s, in 1976 important restoration work on the
castle began, returning it to its original structure.
Open Wed-Mon 8.3am-7.30pm - via Tito Angelini,
22 - T: 081.2294401 - www.polomusealenapoli.
beniculturali.it/museo_se/museo_se.html
CHIESA DEL GESÙ NUOVO - Erected by the Jesuits
between 1584 and 1601, its façade is actually part
of a 15th century Renaissance palace. Its interior is
spacious and light with a rich covering of coloured
marbles and typical Florid Neapolitan frescoes. After
the church was ravaged by fire in 1639, Cosimo
Fanzago was commissioned to carry out restoration
works that gave the Church a Baroque appearance.
Its interior boasts a number of magnificent frescoes
while its chapels feature the works of renowned
artists of the calibre of Massimo Stanzione and
Giuseppe Ribera. Particularly worthy of note are
its sculptorial work and polychrome marble floor.
Open Mon-Sun 7am-12.30pm and 4pm-7.30pm piazza del Gesù - T: 081.5518613
COMPLESSO MONUMENTALE DI SANTA
CHIARA - It includes a Church, a Monastery and
a Convent. One of the principal monuments of
medieval Naples, its construction began in 1310
at the behest of Robert of Anjou and his second
wife Sancia di Maiorca, who, both devotees of St.
Francis of Assisi and Santa Chiara, wanted to build
a Franciscan citadel to house the Clarisse nuns in
the monastery and the Friars Minor in the adjacent
convent. Behind the church is the Cloister of the
Clarisse, the monastery’s main cloister, strikingly
decorated with bright majolica tiles and considered
a masterpiece of Neapolitan art. Open Mon/Sun
7.30am-1.30pm and 4.30pm-8pm - T: 081.7971231
- Complesso monumentale - weekdays 9.30am5.30pm; Sat, Sun and public holidays 10am2.30pm - T: 081.5516673 - T: 081.7971224 - via
S. Chiara, 49C - www.santachiara.info - www.
monasterodisantachiara.com
DUOMO - Known as the Duomo di San Gennaro or
Duomo di Santa Maria Assunta, the Cathedral was
erected at the end of the 13th century by Charles
of Anjou. Its present appearance is the result of
the numerous modifications that took place over
the centuries, partially altering its original Gothic
form. Off the right aisle of the nave is the Chapel
of St. Januarius (Capella di San Gennaro), that also
functions as the cathedral treasury (Tesoro) and
is elaborately decorated with Baroque art – Open
Mon-Sat 8am-12.30pm and 4.30pm-7pm, Sun 8am1.30pm and 5pm-7.30pm – via Duomo, 147 – T:
081.449097
CHIESA DI SAN DOMENICO MAGGIORE - Charles
II of Anjou began the extensive rebuilding that
produced the Church of San Domenico Maggiore.
The work was done between 1238 and 1324, but
the church has undergone extensive modifications
over the centuries, including one in 1670 that recast
the structure in the style of the Baroque. In the 19th
century, however, the church was restored to its
original Gothic design and is a motley combination
of the two styles. Among the many artistic points
of interest in the basilica are the frescoed ceiling
by Francesco Solimena and sculptorial works,
including the high altar by Cosimo Fanzago – Open
Mon-Sun 8.30am-12-noon and 4.30pm-7pm –
piazza S. Domenico Maggiore, 8 – T: 081.459188
GALLERIA UMBERTO I - A mammoth steel and glass
masterpiece built on the site of an entire block
that was razed to the ground following the cholera
epidemic of 1884. The Galleria was built as part of
a program of renovation and modernization of
the city which began with the Unification of Italy
when a tender was put out. The winning project
envisaged four large buildings joined to each other
by an arcade designed by the engineer Paolo
Boubée. Measuring 15 metres in width and 57
metres in height, the galleria was built between
1887 and 1890 and is a wonderful late Victorian
marriage of technology with art. The Galleria has
four access points: via San Carlo, via Santa Brigida,
via Giuseppe Verdi and via Toledo.
CHIESA DI SAN FRANCESCO DI PAOLA - One of the
most characteristic and famous of all Neapolitan
churches. Built in the mid-19th century, its circular
form is reminiscent of the Pantheon in Rome. On
ORTO BOTANICO - Founded in 1807 with a decree
signed by King Joseph Bonaparte, Napoleon’s
brother, the botanical gardens extend over a
surface area of almost 12 hectares. Dedicated
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MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
SPOTLIGHT
GALLERIE D’ITALIA.
YOU AT THE
CENTER OF ART.
Pompeo Carafa: a refined
designer for royal tables
On exhibit, an important selection of items and personal
relics of the Carafa family, recently donated by Droandi
Carafa to the San Martino Museum: fans, drawings,
miniatures, majolica plates, sketches and designs for plates,
either to be used for the purpose of eating or hung on
walls, designed and created by Pompeo Carafa di Noja, a
protagonist of court life during the reign of the Savoy family
at the time of his appointment as master of ceremonies to
the king. Exhibition standouts include eighteen majolica
plates inspired by the art of ceramic-making between the
16th and 17th centuries in Central Italy.
Until 20 December
>> Museo di San Martino. Largo San Martino, 1, Naples
T: 0812294537
An open-air exhibition featuring more than 20
contemporary Italian and international artists,
invited to interpret the myths, place and history
of the island. Performances, audio and video installations, life-size sculptures, night screenings
and exhibitions in public and private venues
located between Naples and Capri with the involvement of the Art Stations of Naples’ subway
system and contemporary art museums.
The project also includes the exhibition ‘Canone
Inverso’ at the Certosa di San Giacomo.
Until December
Capri – Napoli. Tel. 081 0191478
www.capritheislandofart.org
botanists will be impressed with its rich collection
of almost 10,000 species of plants including those
from the major American, African, Asian and
Australian deserts. Open Mon, Tues and Fri 9am2pm by appointment only; Wed -Thurs 9am-2pma
- via Foria, 223 - T: 081.2533937 - www.ortobotanico.
unina.it
PALAZZO REALE - Envisaged as a 16th century
monument to Spanish glory, it was erected at
the behest of viceroy Fernandez Ruiz de Castro
who, in 1599, decided to build a palace capable
of lavishly hosting his sovereign, king of Spain and
his entourage. The nucleus of the entire building
is the Royal Apartment which can be accessed
via a monumental white marble stairway with a
double ramp whose lower part is decorated with
allegoric bas-reliefs – Open Mon-Sun 9am- 8am
– piazza del Plebiscito, I - T: 081.5808111 – www.
palazzorealenapoli.beniculturali.it
REAL ALBERGO DEI POVERI - One of the largest,
most imposing buildings in Europe it was designed
by architect Ferdinando Fuga in 1751, at the
behest of King Charles III of the House of Bourbon.
Originally designed to be 600 metres long with
five courtyards and a church in the centre, due to
a severe lack of funds, only the three innermost
courtyards were built. Plans to complete the
building according to the original design were
finally abandoned in 1819 – Open Sat 9.30am12.30pm by appointment only – piazza Carlo III – T:
081.5636062
UNIVERSITÀ DEGLI STUDI FEDERICOII - This
establishment was founded in 1224 with the
specific aim of training administrative and skilled
bureaucratic professionals for the curia regis (the
kingdom’s governing apparatus). It was also used
to prepare lawyers and judges who would help
the sovereign to draft and administer justice. Via
Mezzocannone, 8 - T: 081.2531111 - www.unina.it
VILLA COMUNALE - Its gardens run parallel to the
sea in via Caracciolo on reclaimed land featuring
almost one kilometre of holm oaks, palm trees,
eucalyptus trees and spacious flowerbeds
embellished by Neo-classical sculptures, fountains
and buildings including Casina Pompeiana and the
Cassa Armonica. Designed by Carlo Vanvitelli the
Villa Comunale was built in the 1780s by Bourbon
King Ferdinand IV as a “Royal Garden” for members
of the royal family. Following restoration work by
Milanese architect Mendini with coloured chalets
and a gold gate, it assumed a more modern
appearance. The centre of the villa houses the
Stazione Zoologica Anton Dohrn, an important
research centre and home to one of the oldest
aquariums in Europe. Open Mon-Sun 7am-12midnight - piazza Vittoria - T: 081.7611130
MUSEUMS
CERTOSA DI SAN MARTINO - Lying atop a hill
in the Vomero district, the former monastery
dominates the entire Gulf of Naples. Founded in
1325 by Charles of Anjou, Duke of Calabria, over
the centuries the Charter House was enriched by a
number of impressive artefacts including marbles,
frescoes, sculptures, furnishings and paintings.
A national monument since 1866, it houses the
National Museum of San Martino, featuring a large
display of “presepi” or nativity scenes by masters of
the Neapolitan school. Make sure to visit its threetiered gardens and cloisters, the largest of which
is considered to be one of the finest in Italy. Open
Thurs-Tues 8.30am-6.30pm – Largo S. Martino, 5 – T:
081.5781769 – www.cir.campania.beniculturali.it/
museosanmartino
50  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
GALLERIE D’ITALIA PALAZZO ZEVALLOS
STIGLIANO - Not only a museum space but
also a venue hosting artistic events, temporary
exhibitions, concerts, symposiums and
conventions. Tues- Sun, from 10am to 6pm; Sat,
from 10am to 8pm; Closed on Mondays. Also open
during public holidays excluding 15 August, 25
December and 1 January. The museum closes
at 2pm on 31 December – Via Toledo, 185. T:
0817917233 www.gallerieditalia.com
MAMT. MEDITERRANEAN MUSEUM OF ART,
MUSIC AND TRADITIONS - The Museo
Mediterraneo dell’Arte, della Musica e delle
Tradizioni (MAMT) celebrates the culture of 43
Mediterranean cultures by way of images, objects
and original documents provided by their Heads
of State and Governments. Five floors of exhibits,
photographs and paintings; an area dedicated
to the daily prayers of Christians, Muslims and
Jews; a library; a newspaper library and a music
hall dedicated to Neapolitan artists Peppe and
Concetta Barra. MAMT also houses the International
Pizza Museum, the majestic “Totem of Peace”
created by sculptor Mario Molinari and a section
dedicated to architecture. Via Depretis, 130. T:
3408062908 www.mamt.it
MAV. VIRTUAL ARCHAELOGICAL MUSEUM OF
HERCULANEUM - A trip into the past thanks to a
multi-sensorial experience which will enable visitors
to learn about and discover the historic realities of
Herculaneum and Pompeii prior to the eruption in
79 A.D. At the Virtual Museum of Archaeology (or
MAV), sited 100 metres from the ruins of the former
settlement, visitors will be transported into a virtual
context faithfully recreated thanks to the use of
avant-garde digital technology, where they will be
given a one-of-a-kind perspective of what life there
was really like without having to trek around the
actual ruins in a bid to help preserve one of Italy’s
most beautiful and fragile archaeological sites.
Open Tue-Sun 9.30am-5p- via IV Novembre, 44,
Ercolano - T: 081.19806511 www.museomav.it
MUSEO ARCHEOLOGICO NAZIONALE - The
National Museum, at the Piazza Museo, with its
Roman and Greek sculptures, contains one of the
most valuable archaeological collections in Italy.
It hosts more than 3,000 objects and hundreds of
thousands of relics dating back to the Prehistoric
and Late Antiquity, originating from ancient sites
photo: Matteo Cirenei
Capri The Island
of Art
www.gallerieditalia.com
GALLERIE D’ITALIA - PALAZZO ZEVALLOS STIGLIANO
NAPLES, VIA TOLEDO 185
THE MUSEUM OF INTESA SANPAOLO.
We help to promote culture through permanent exhibitions,
temporary shows and special initiatives.
[ WHERE ELSE]
MUSEUMS & ATTRACTIONS
MUSEO CASA ROSSA: Situated in the historic
centre of Anacapri, it houses a rich communal
collection of 19th century paintings, an excursus
into the places that have made Capri famous
throughout the world thanks to the artworks
created by the countless artists who visited the
Island during that period. Via Giuseppe Orlandi, 78,
Anacapri. T: 0818382193
MUSEO CORREALE DI TERRANOVA: A splendid
dwelling decorated like an ancient noble
residence, featuring magnificent furniture, refined
European and Oriental porcelains and rare
Neapolitan and foreign paintings. Via Correale, 50,
Sorrento. T: 0818781846 www.museocorreale.it
MUSEO DEL CENTRO CAPRESE IGNAZIO
CERIO: It offers visitors a chance to learn more
about the origins of Capri and the fossils found
in its rocks. Piazzetta Ignazio Cerio, 5, Capri. T:
0818376681 www.centrocaprense.org
MUSEO DEL CONTADINO: Situated in the hilly
district of Panza, it is dedicated to the tools and
lifestyles of peasant society. Via Mario D’Ambra, 16,
Forio, Ischia. T: 081907246 www.dambravini.com
MUSEO DELLA CARTA: A place where everything
regarding the ancient art of handcrafted paper in
Amalfi is disseminated, divulged and documented.
Via delle Cartiere, 23, Amalfi. T: 0898304561 www.
museodellacarta.it
MUSEO DELLA TARSIA LIGNEA: An original
museum cum workshop preserving and
TWO YOUNG AMERICANS. A DIALOGUE BETWEEN
PAINTING AND SCULPTURE
A two-person show by Gina Hoover and Matt Jacobs, two young, up-and-coming American
artists in the field of painting and sculpture. Though featuring elements of playfulness, fun,
irony, hedonism and provocative allusions, their works are firmly anchored to a healthy
knowledge of the trade. The creations by Matt Jacobs are characterized by bold colours,
improbable shapes and strange materials while those by Gina embody a radical expressivity
and a sense of arrested time, displaying fast, confident brushwork and an idiosyncratic palette
that testify to a kind of visionary strength.
Until 28 November
Intragallery. Via Cavallerizza a Chiaia, 57, Naples. T: 081415702 www.intragallery.it
in Southern Italy and also includes the Farnese
collection which belonged to the Bourbon
family, founders of the museum. Open Wed-Mon
9am-7.30pm - piazza Museo Nazionale, 19 - T:
081.4422149 - www.cir.campania.beniculturali.it/
museoarcheologiconazionale
MUSEO CAPPELLA SANSEVERO – Thanks to
famous masterpieces including the Veiled Christ,
known throughout the world on account of the
Disinganno (The Release from Deception) and
the Anatomical Machines, the Chapel represents
one of the most unique monuments ever to
have been built. Was built at the end of the 16th
century by Raimondo di Sangro, the seventh prince
of Sansevero. Open Mon-Sat 9.30am – 6.30pm;
Sun and public holidays 9.30am-2pm; Closed
on Tuesday – via Francesco De Sanctis, 19 – T:
081.5518470 – www.museosansevero.it
MUSEO DEL TESORO DI S. GENNARO - The
masterpieces displayed document the
extraordinary expertise of sculptors, chisselers
and assemblers who created works of art from
the 14th century onwards. Open Tues-Sat 9am5.30pm, Wednesday - only by reservation - via
Duomo, 147 - T: 081.294980, T: 081.3442286 - www.
museosangennaro.com
MUSEO DI CAPODIMONTE - Located in the Palazzo
Reale di Capodimonte, the museum was created
52  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
The day when it all ended. Historic notes
documenting the production of wooden inlay
crafted by time-honoured Sorrento artisans
which also promotes the new contemporary
production of design objects and furniture. Via
San Nicola, 28, Sorrento. T: 0818771942 www.
alessandrofiorentinocollection.it
MUSEO DIEFENBACH: Named after the
eponymous symbolist artist to whom it pays
tribute. The museum hosts large evocative
paintings portraying a variety of subjects
alongside statues dating back to Roman times
depicting marine divinities. Via Certosa, Capri. T:
0815788418
MUSEO MARTE: Four floors spread out over a
surface area of 2,500 sq.m. A multi-functional
space that hosts exhibitions, cultural events,
meetings performances and tastings. Corso
Umberto I, 137, Cava dei Tirreni. T: 0899481133
www.marteonline.com
by Charles VII who had inherited from his mother
the extraordinary collection of art belonging to the
Farnese family, one of the most important families
of Renaissance Italy. The variety of its collections,
including paintings, sculptures, drawings,
weapons, decorative arts, is owed to this period.
The museum also houses a section dedicated
to contemporary art. Open Thurs-Tues 8.30am6.30pm; 7.50 euros - via Miano, 2 - T: 081.7499111 www.polomusealenapoli.beniculturali.it/museo_cp
Access
routes
MUSEO MADRE - The Donna Regina Contemporary
Art Museum (M.A.D.RE) takes its name from the
building in which it is housed, namely Palazzo
Donnaregina. Partially opened in 2005, it was
completed in 2007 when the exhibition spaces
were enlarged by the Portuguese architect,
Alvaro Siza. A medley of 18th and 19th century
architecture, it has two courtyards and overlooks
a part of the 5th and 6th century B.C. city walls
which can be seen under the floor of the ticket
office. Open Mon, Wed, Thurs, Fri and Sat 10am6.30pm, Sun 10am-8pm – via Settembrini, 79 – T:
081.19313016 – www.madrenapoli.it
to the site
T
PAN - Housed in the 18th century Palazzo Roccella on
via dei Mille, the gallery offers vast exhibition space,
consultation areas, services and tools targeted
at the study of the works and protagonists of
contemporary art forms: from painting to sculpture,
from architecture to photography, from design to
cinema, from video-art to cartoons. Open Wed-Sat
and Mon 9.30am-7.30pm, Sun and public holidays
9.30am-2.30pm - via dei Mille, 60 - T: 081.7958605 www.palazzoartinapoli.net
UNDERGROUND NAPLES - This is the other face
of Naples, the one that has withstood the tests of
time, far-removed from the hustle and bustle of
the vibrant city. In its underground passages and
walls made from yellow tuff, the stone that Naples
is built on, you can still see the indelible signs and
traces of its past history, from the birth of Neapolis
to the Second World War. The tour of Underground
Naples lasts for about 2 hours. Multilingual guides
available. Open Mon-Sun 10am-6pm, Thurs also
until 9pm; piazza San Gaetano, 68 – T: 081.296944
– T: 340.4606045 – T: 3348197912 –
www.napolisotterranea.org
© SERENA ALTIERI
MUSEO ARSENALE DI AMALFI: The Arsenale
was the naval shipyard of the ancient republic
of Amalfi (from 1059 onwards). It still retains its
original structures intact and, today, is the only
shipyard of the period that can be visited in the
Mediterranean area. Largo Cesareo Console, 3,
Amalfi. T: 089871170 www.museoarsenaleamalfi.it
Pompeii
>> Access routes
he first stable settlement in
Pompeii experienced a period of enormous
Pompeii was founded around
prosperity apparent in the construction
the seventh century B.C. by the
of luxurious dwellings like Casa del Fauno.
indigenous population of the
Starting from the first century B.C., Pompeii’s
Porta Marina, Piazza Anfiteatro
and Piazza Esedra
From 8.30am-7pm
(last entrance at 6pm)
>>Tickets
€ 11 valid for one day;
€ 20 with access to 5 sites
(Pompeii, Herculaneum, Oplonti, Stabia
and Boscoreale), valid for three days.
T: 081.8575111
Oscans, subsequently being subjected
wealth continued to be based, for the most
to the political and cultural influence of
part, on the trade of products sourced from
the Greeks and the Etruscans. Towards
around the area: wine, wool and garum, a
the end of the fifth century B.C. Pompeii
famous fish sauce used as a condiment.
also fell under the sphere of influence
The devastating eruption of Vesuvius in
of the Sannites, who took possession of
79 A.D. involved the south-western area
the whole of Campania, establishing a
of Vesuvius, causing all signs of life to
flourishing civilization. Rome also took part
disappear under a thick crust of volcanic
in the interminable succession of wars
ash.
All in vain: Pompeii had been almost
that followed (343-201 B.C.), becoming
In Rome, Emperor Titus, created a special
entirely buried by the fury of the volcano,
the dominant power of the entire region,
senatorial committee to organize the rescue
while Herculaneum had disappeared
resulting in its development as a thriving
of its survivors and assess the extent of the
completely.
port and trading centre.
damage in a bid to rebuild the city.
FOR BOOKINGS CONTACT YOUR
CONCIERGE
w w w. w heretravel er. com  53
OUT OF TOWN
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM
OUT OF TOWN
Casertavecchia
Reggia di Caserta, the Fountain of Aeolus
In discovery of
Caserta
From the Reggia to the
Belvedere of San Leucio, passing through
the streets of Casertavecchia, a trip in discovery
of the area’s historical, artistic and architectural
heritage
WHERE ELSE
Caserta is a small centre, boasting a rich heritage of
artistic, architectural and historical treasures. Where
has selected a pick of its most noteworthy landmark
attractions that should be visited at least once in a
lifetime.
THE REGGIA OF CASERTA
A visit to this magnificent royal residence, second only to the
splendours of Versailles, starts with the Royal Palace, whose
construction, entrusted to Neapolitan architect Luigi Vanvitelli, was
commissioned by Carlo III Bourbon.
The Palace boasts as many as 1,200 rooms, all decorated according to
A large staircase adorned with two lions, sculpted in Carrara marble,
54  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
leads to the first floor, to the eight Royal
Apartments, featuring vaults decorated with
stunning frescoes and to the Palatine Library
and the Palatine Chapel, embellished with
sixteen Corinthian marble columns. There
are lots of rooms worth visiting: from the
the style of the era.
wherenaples.com How to enjoy your stay in Naples
alludes to the grandeur of the kingdom and
horseshoe-shaped Teatro di Corte (Court
Theatre) to the Sala Ellittica (Oval Hall)
which is painted in white and contains the
magnificent Bourbon manager scene.
Back on the ground floor at the end of the
main gallery, you come out onto the Reggia's
magnificent park: a masterpiece of nature, it
extends over more than 100 hectares and is
adorned with fountains and pools.
The most evocative area of the park is the
The Archaeological Museum of Antica Capua
w w w. w heretravel er. com  55
OUT OF TOWN
>> THE REGGIA OF CASERTA
Is open daily, except on Tuesdays, from
8.30am to 4.30pm.
T: 0823448084.
Entrance to Palace and park: € 12
>> THE BELVEDERE OF SAN LEUCIO
The museum can be visited daily, except
on Tuesdays, subject to reservation.
T: 800411515 – 0823273151
Entrance: € 6
>> CASERTAVECCHIA, How to get there
By train: Caserta railway station
By plane: Capodichino Airport (Naples)
situated at a distance of 24 km
Casertavecchia, landscape
beautiful English Garden created for Queen
to catch a glimpse of Ischia and Capri. The
Maria Carolina, the wife of Ferdinand IV: exotic
complex also houses the Silk Museum which
plants, hot houses, small woods, intricate
contains the original tools used to weave silk
pathways and a small temple with ancient
in the 17th century. The silks produced here
Roman statues taken from the ruins of
are still purchased by illustrious clients from
Pompeii combine to make it a totally unique
all over the world, including the White House,
place.
the Quirinale and Buckingham Palace.
Inside, a separate pathway leads to the Bagno
di Venere, where a statue of Venus shows the
CASERTAVECCHIA
goddess shyly preparing to take a bath near
The medieval fortress town of Casertavecchia
the small fountain.
is situated at a distance of some ten km
from the city. its terraces, scattered here and
THE BELVEDERE OF SAN LEUCIO
there, offer a panoramic view over the city,
Just a few kilometers from the Royal Palace
including Vanvitelli’s Reggia, Vesuvius and the
of Caserta, visitors will find a unique example
islands of the Gulf. Scattered throughout the
of an illuminist-inspired imperial utopia, a
town’s narrow medieval streets are craft shops
ground breaking project conceived by King
and numerous small restaurants specializing
Ferdinand IV who created an independent
in typical cuisine. Take an evocative trip back
community called Ferdinandopoli.
through time.
The King promoted the production and
You’ll be delighted by the heady aromas of
manufacture of silk by sending youngsters
nature and the wood burning ovens found in
from the area to train and learn the art of silk
its houses.
making in France in order to subsequently
Dominated by a castle that is today in ruins,
work in the royal factories. In 1778, he
the village is built around the cathedral, a fine
founded the Royal Colony of San Leucio
example of Norman-Arab architectural style
based on a separate code of laws.
built in 1100.
In addition to a beautiful Italianate garden,
Dedicated to St. Michael The Archangel,
a tour of the site includes a visit to the Royal
the Duomo boasts three naves. Elegant yet
Apartments.
simple, it is a favourite destination for brides
From the terrace of the Belvedere, visitors can
who choose it to say “I do” on their big day.
The Museum of Santa Maria di
Capuavetere, detail
Line 1
enjoy a splendid view that stretches as far as
Vesuvius, and on clear days, it is even possible
56  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
San Leucio, Silk
TOLEDO station
artwork William Kentridge
ESSENTIALS
Underground Network and Urban Railway System
For every need ask your concierge.
EMERGENCY
Carabinieri T: 112
City Police T: 113
Fire Brigade T: 115
Ambulance T: 118
Sea rescue T: 1530
Passports Questura di Napoli - via Medina, 75.
T: 081.7941111
Lost and Found at Stazione Napoli Centrale: via
Jacopo De Gennaro, 96/98. T: 081.7956197
Left Luggage at Capodichino Airport T: 199280180
TRAINS
Ferrovie dello Stato - Trenitalia Railway Company Info: 892021 - www.trenitalia.com - luggage storage
T: 081.5672181
Italo - Italy’s newest high-speed train connects 9 Italian
cities including Florence, Rome, Naples and Milan
(Garibaldi FS) - www.italotreno.it
TAXI
How to catch a taxi in Naples. From the hotel: call the
concierge.
While out and about in the city, call for a taxi
on: Consortaxi 081.5525252, Free Radio Taxi
081.5515151, Partenope 081.5560202, Cooperativa
Tassisti 081.5510964, Radiotaxinapoli 081.5564444,
Radiotaxi Cotana 081.5707070.
Urban fixed rates:
From/To Capodichino Airport/Lungomare Hotels:
€ 23,00
From/To Capodichino Airport/Mergellina: € 23,00
From/To Capodichino Airport/Molo Beverello: € 19,00
From/To Capodichino Airport/Piazza Municipio:
€ 19,00
From/To Capodichino Airport/Central Station: € 15,00
From/To Central Station/Mergellina: € 13,50
From/To Central Station/Lungomare Hotels: € 11,50
From/To Central Station/Molo Beverello: € 10,50
Discover Naples By Metro and Funicular
Extra-urban fixed rates:
Ravello (one way): € 135,00
Amalfi (one way): € 130,00
Ercolano (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for visit):
€ 70,00
Ercolano and Pompei (round trip with 3 hours stop
waiting for visit): € 130,00
Pompei (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for visit):
€ 90,00
Positano (one way): € 120,00
Costiera’s tour (Positano, Ravello, Amalfi, Sorrento round
trip no time limit back in the day): € 220,00
Vesuvio (round trip with 2 hours stop waiting for visit):
€ 90,00
Sorrento (one way): € 100,00
Royal Palace of Caserta (round trip with 2 hours stop
waiting for visit): € 100,00
Roma Fiumicino (one way): € 350,00
City tour (scenic area, gulf, historic centre, Campi
Flegrei’s scenic area): € 70,00
AIRPORTS
WHERE WAS FOUNDED IN 1936 in Detroit to provide information on the city to executives travelling in the heyday of the auto industry’s expansion.
58  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
ESSENTIALS
FOR MORE LISTINGS VISIT WWW.WHERENAPLES.COM
Capodichino - (7 km from the centre of Naplestangenziale di Napoli direction Pozzuoli).
Flight and bus info: 848.888777 (call center) - from
mobile phones T: 081.7515471 - www.portal.gesac.it
CITY TOURS
Citysightseeing Naples - (48 hour HOP ON HOP OFF
ticket) via Paolo Emilio Imbriani, 32. T: 081.5517279
www.napoli.city-sightseeing.it
departures: Piazza Municipio, Largo Castello
CAR RENTAL
AVIS
Aeroporto di Capodichino T: 081.7805790 - Corso
Novara, 5. T: 081.284041 - via Piedigrotta, 44.
T: 081.7618354 www.avisautonoleggio.it
DOLLAR RENT A CAR
Aeroporto di Capodichino - T: 081.7896252
www.dollarrentacar.com
HERTZ
Aeroporto di Capodichino T: 081.7802971 - piazza
Sannazzaro, 142. T: 081.7612168 - www.hertz.it
MAGGIORE
Aeroporto Capodichino T: 081.7803011
www.maggiore.it
BIKE SHARING
Bike-hire stations are located in Piazza Garibaldi, via
Brin, piazz a Bovio, piazzetta Nilo, piazza Dante, Largo
Enrico Berlinguer, Maschio Angioino, Castel dell'Ovo.
See box page 61
CONNECTIONS WITH
ISLANDS AND
SORRENTO
HYDROFOILS
Napoli-Capri (Caremar)
from Beverello: 5.35am – 12am – 5.25pm
Capri-Napoli (Caremar)
to Beverello: 10.20am – 3.35pm – 8.15pm
Napoli-Capri (Gescab)
from Beverello: 7am – 8.05am – 8.35am – 9.10am
– 9.30am – 9.50am (Tuesday, Thursday and Friday) –
10.10am – 10.35am – 11.10am – 11.35am – 11.55am
(only Sat and Sun) – 12.40am – 2pm – 2.40pm –
3.35pm – 4pm – 4.30pm – 8pm
Capri-Napoli (Gescab)
to Beverello: 6.50am – 8.05am – 9.10am – 9.35am –
10.10am – 10.35am – 11.35am – 12.15am – 12.40am
– 1.40pm – 2.50pm – 3.25pm – 4.30pm – 5.05pm –
5.10pm – 5.50pm – 6.10pm
Napoli-Capri (Snav)
from Beverello: 7am – 8.05am – 8.35am – 9.10am –
9.30am – 9.50am – 10.10am – 10.35am – 11.10am
– 11.35am – 11.55am (only Sat and Sun) – 12.40am –
2pm – 2.40pm – 3.35pm – 4pm – 4.30pm – 8pm
Capri-Napoli (Snav)
to Beverello: 6.50am – 8.05am – 9.10am – 9.35am –
Getting Around
Naples
In addition to the metro (underground) system,
cited in the listings, Naples is also covered by
numerous bus routes.
For more information regarding Naples’s public
transport system:
ANM - Azienda Napoletana Mobilità
www.anm.it - T: 800639525
How to reach
Vesuvian area
By train For the entrance to Porta Marina and Piazza
Esedra, Pompeii, Circumvesuviana Naples-Sorrento
(Pompeii Villa dei Misteri stop; For the entrance to
Piazza Anfiteatro, Pompeii, Pompei Santuario Stop;
for Herculaneum, Herculaneum stop; for Oplontis,
Torre Annunziata stop
By bus
from Naples and from Salerno
By car A3 Naples-Salerno (Pompeii exit to
Pompeii; Herculaneum exit to Herculaneum; Torre
Annunziata Sud exit to Oplontis)
INFORMATION TO VISIT
POMPEII Access routes: Porta Marina, Piazza
Anfiteatro and Piazza Esedra
T: 081.8575111
HERCULANEUM Access routes: Corso Resina, 1
T: 081-7324311
OPLONTI Access routes: Via dei Sepolcri, Torre
Annunziata T: 0818575347
10.10am – 10.35am – 11.35am – 12.15am – 12.40am
– 1.40pm – 2.50pm – 3.25pm – 4.30pm – 5.05pm –
5.10pm – 5.50pm – 6.10pm
Napoli-Forio (Ischia) (Alilauro)
from Beverello: 7.35am (except Sat and public holidays)
– 9.40am – 10.50am – 2.35pm – 5.20pm
Forio (Ischia)-Napoli (Alilauro)
to Beverello: 6.50am – 9.15am – 11.20am – 1pm –
3.55pm
Napoli-Casamicciola (Ischia) (Snav)
ffrom Beverello: 8.25am – 12.30am – 4.20pm – 7pm
Casamicciola (Ischia)-Napoli (Snav)
to Beverello: 7.10am – 9.45am – 1.50pm – 5.40pm
Napoli-Ischia Porto (Alilauro)
from Beverello: 7.35am (weekdays) – 9.40am – 10.50am
– 12.10am – 12.55am – 2.35pm – 3.30pm – 5.20pm –
5.55pm – 8.20pm
Ischia Porto-Napoli (Alilauro)
to Beverello: 6.30am (except Sat and public holidays) –
7.10am (weekdays) – 8.40am – 9.35am – 10am (except
Sat and public holidays) – 11.45am – 1.20pm – 2pm –
4.15pm – 4.40pm – 7.10pm
Napoli-Ischia (Alilauro)
from Mergellina: 7.10am (except Sat and public holidays) – 12.30am – 6.15pm
Ischia-Napoli (Alilauro)
to Mergellina: 10am (except Sat and public holidays) –
2pm – 3.20pm (only Sat) – 5.20pm (festive) – 7.10pm
Napoli-Ischia (Caremar)
from Beverello: 7.40am – 1.10am – 6.15pm
Ischia-Napoli (Caremar)
to Beverello: 6.20am – 10.15am – 2.30pm
Ticket
Single ticket: € 1.00
Ticket validity (valid for 90 minutes): € 1.50
Day ticket: € 3.50
Weekly ticket: € 12.00
Where to purchase your ticket:
from all authorized ticket sellers, ANM points
and automatic ticket machines in underground
stations.
w w w. w heretravel er. com  59
ESSENTIALS
NAPLES
How to reach
Coast&Islands
VESUVIUS
SORRENTO
POSITANO
ISCHIA
CAPRI
POSITANO
SORRENTO
By car from Naples: Autostrada A3, Vietri sul
Mare exit. From here take the statale 163
By car from Naples: statale 145
By bus from Naples: Sita spa T: 089487001
By train: Circumvesuviana from Napoli to
Sorrento
TOURIST INFORMATION
TOURIST INFORMATION
Carabinieri: T: 089875011
Croce Rossa Italiana: T: 089811912
Vigili Urbani: T: 089875277
Municipality: T: 0898122511
Carabinieri: T: 089875011
Emergency Medical: T: 0815331111
Taxi: T: 0818782204
Azienda Soggiorno e Turismo: T: 0818074033
ISCHIA
CAPRI
By boat, from Naples: molo Beverello to Ischia
Porto, Casamicciola or Forio (1 hour, 40 minutes
by ferry, 40 minutes by hydrofoil); molo
Mergellina to ischia Porto, Casamicciola or Forio
(40 minutes by hydrofoil); from Pozzuoli to
Casamicciola (60 minutes by ferry, 50 minutes
by motorboat)
By boat from Naples: molo Beverello (80
minutes by ferry, 40 minutes by hydrofoil), from
molo Mergellina (40 minutes by hydrofoil), from
Sorrento (40 minutes by ferry, 20 minutes by
hydrofoil)
TOURIST INFORMATION
Carabinieri: T: 081991001
Taxi: T: 0818782204
Azienda Soggiorno e Turismo: T: 0815074211
Capri-Amalfi (Alilauro)
4.25pm
Amalfi-Capri (Alilauro)
9.30am
Capri-Amalfi (Gescab)
5.15pm
Amalfi-Capri (Gescab)
8.55am
Capri-Positano (Alilauro)
4.25pm
Positano-Capri (Alilauro)
10am
Capri-Positano (Gescab)
5.15pm
Positano-Capri (Gescab)
9.15am
Capri-Sorrento (Alilauro)
8am (weekdays) – 9am – 9.20am – 9.50am – 10.20am
– 11.20am – 12.20am – 1pm – 3.15pm – 4.20pm –
5.20pm – 6.30pm
Sorrento-Capri (Alilauro)
7.15am (weekdays) – 8.05am – 8.45am – 9.15am
– 9.50am – 10.45am – 11.45am – 1.30pm – 3.50pm –
4.05pm – 4.45pm – 5.45pm
Capri-Sorrento (Caremar)
7am – 8.40am – 1.35pm – 6.45pm
Sorrento-Capri (Caremar)
7.45am – 9.25am – 2.30pm – 7.25pm
Capri-Sorrento (Gescab)
8am (weekdays) – 8.55am – 9.05am – 9.20am –
10.20am – 11.20am – 12.10am – 1pm – 1.55pm –
3.15pm – 4.05pm – 4.20pm – 5.15pm – 5.35pm (except
TOURIST INFORMATION
Carabinieri: T: 0818370000
Emergency Medical: T: 0818381259
Taxi: T: 0818370543
Azienda Soggiorno e Turismo: T: 0818375308
Sat and Sun) – 5.45pm – 6.30pm
Sorrento-Capri (Gescab)
7.15am (except Sun) – 8.10am – 8.45am – 9.40am
– 9.50am – 10.45am – 11.25am – 11.45am – 1.30pm –
1.50pm – 2.25pm – 3.45pm – 4.45pm – 5.45pm
Capri-Sorrento (Snav)
8am (except Sun) – 8.55am – 11.20am – 1pm – 3.15pm
– 4.35pm – 5.40pm
Sorrento-Capri (Snav)
7.15am (except Sun) – 8.30am – 9.50am – 11.45am –
1.30pm – 3.50pm – 5.05pm
Sorrento-Amalfi (Alilauro)
10.30am
Amalfi-Sorrento (Alilauro)
4.35pm
Sorrento-Positano (Alilauro)
10.30am
Positano-Sorrento (Alilauro)
5pm
Napoli-Sorrento (Alilauro)
from Beverello: 9am – 11am – 1pm – 3.05pm – 5.15pm
Sorrento-Napoli (Alilauro)
to Beverello: 8.10am – 10am – 12am – 2pm – 4.25pm
Amalfi-Ischia (Alilauro)
8.25am
Ischia-Amalfi (Alilauro) 4.20pm
Sorrento-Ischia (Alilauro) 9.30am
Ischia-Sorrento (Alilauro) 5.25pm
Positano-Ischia (Alilauro) 9am
Ischia-Positano (Alilauro) 4.20pm
Capri-Ischia (Snav) 4.40pm
Ischia-Capri (Snav) 10.40am
60  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
BIKE SHARING
The service is operative on a daily basis and
bicycles can be picked up from any of the
stations avalaible (piazza Garibaldi, via Brin,
piazza Bovio, piazzetta Nilo, piazza Dante, largo
Enrico Berglinguer, Maschio Angioino, Castel
dell’Ovo) from 7am to 10pm (even several
times a day) for short point-to-point trips from
one station to another. Maximum duration: 30
minutes. The service is free. To use it you need
to register on the www.bikesharingnapoli.it
website. You will be required to give your credit
or debit card number as a guarantee but no
charges will be made.
FERRIES
Napoli-Capri (Caremar)
from Porta di Massa: 7.25am – 12am – 12.40am –
7.10pm
Capri-Napoli (Caremar)
to Porta di Massa: 5.40am – 9.20am – 2.30pm
Napoli-Casamicciola (Caremar)
from Porta di Massa: 3.45pm
Casamicciola-Napoli (Caremar)
to Porta di Massa: 12.55am
Napoli-Casamicciola (Medmar)
from Porta di Massa: 9.30pm (only Fri and Sat)
Casamicciola-Napoli (Medmar)
to Porta di Massa: 12.55am
Napoli-Ischia (Caremar)
from Porta di Massa: 6.15am – 3.10pm – 5.30pm –
8.30pm – 12pm
Ischia-Napoli (Caremar)
to Porta di Massa: 3.20pm – 5.20pm – 7.25pm –
10.15pm
Napoli-Ischia (Medmar)
from Porta di Massa: 8.35am – 10.05am (only Fri, Sat
and Sun) – 2.10pm – 4.50pm (only Fri, Sat and Sun) –
7pm
Ischia-Napoli (Medmar)
tto Porta di Massa: 6.25am – 10.35am – 2.30pm (only
Fri, Sat and Sun) – 5pm – 6.50pm (only Fri, Sat and Sun)
Capri-Sorrento (Caremar)
7am – 8.40am – 1.35pm – 6.45pm
Sorrento-Capri (Caremar)
7.45am – 9.25am – 2.30pm – 7.25pm
Capri-Positano (Gescab) 4.25pm
Positano-Capri (Gescab) 10am
Capri-Amalfi (Gescab) 4.25pm
Amalfi-Capri (Gescab) 9.30am
The times shown are those listed
on the websites of individual cruise
companies. Where declines all
responsibility for unexpected changes
in running times.
[ WHERE IN NAPLES]
My Perfect Day
When it comes to cuisine, how important are
Naples in three adjectives?
creativity and passion?
Dramatic, chaotic and flavoursome.
Creativity serves as a means of expression and passion
Naples in three snapshots?
is essential in all jobs.
Sea, pizza and mandolins? No! History, culture and
Is it better to use high-quality ingredients or
cheerfulness.
to work with leftovers hidden in the fridge?
Your favourite aperitivo?
It’s always a pleasure to use high-quality ingredients
Campari spritz. However, while on the panel of judges
but I’m still of the opinion that one shouldn’t waste
of a recent competition, I drank cocktails featuring a
food.
Martini mix that were absolutely fabulous.
What are the right ingredients for a perfect
dish?
There is no such thing as a perfect dish. There are only
outstanding ingredients that are combined according
to taste and creativity to give pleasure.
What are the hallmark features of the Le
Colonne restaurant?
Directness, minimalism and substance.
The coffee ritual. Tell us about yours?
I never drink a cup of coffee without first drinking a
glass of water to cleanse my palate. My cup of coffee
has to be so hot that it burns my lips.
Your favourite dish?
Impossible to choose! There are so many good things
to eat.
Your best culinary creation?
At the moment a mozzarella ball and an upside down
pizza.
Rosanna
Marziale
[ Chef ]
The Chef of Le Colonne
restaurant in Caserta says
that she has many hidden
identities which on coming
together are responsible for
her choices in the kitchen.
She uses her recipes to tell
her story and to express
the various facets of her
personality.
Let’s talk about shopping: what do you like
end up using the same one.
What made you
choose to become
a chef?
I have always worked
at my family’s restaurant.
64  W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I N O V E M B E R 2015
a female chef ?
I had to work as hard as any man, in the sense of ‘no
pain, no gain’. But this had nothing to do with being
a woman.
What is the place ‘dearest to your heart’ in
Naples?
Naples is full of places that I love. However, strolling
along via Caracciolo while looking at the Bay of Naples
is a truly magical feeling.
buying?
Handbags! Although I always
Did you have trouble establishing yourself as
I was born here and although it wasn’t taken
for granted that I would learn to love the
business, I tried all the sectors that are
indispensable for a chef’s job. Before
actually working in the kitchen, I took
various courses on management,
becoming a bar tender, a maitre, a
sommelier…
How would you describe the Neapolitans?
Exaggerated, with no half measures, whether good
or bad.
WHERE | NAPLES COAST&ISLANDS
ONLY AT PREMIERE HOTELS
5 STAR DELUXE NAPLES
Grand Hotel Parkers. Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 135
80121 Naples (NA)
Grand Hotel Vesuvio.
Via Partenope, 45 - 80121 Naples (NA)
Romeo. Via Cristoforo Colombo, 45
80133 Naples (NA)
4 STAR DELUXE NAPLES
Eurostars Excelsior. Via Partenope, 48 - 80121 Naples (NA)
Relais Villa Buonanno. Viale Buonanno, 10 - 80040
Cercola (NA)
4 STAR NAPLES
Alabardieri. Via Alabardieri, 38 - 80121 Naples (NA)
Apart Hotel Plebiscito. Via Chiaia, 79 - 80121 Naples (NA)
Arte Resort Galleria Umberto. Galleria Umberto I, 83
80132 Naples (NA)
Best Western Hotel Paradiso. Via Catullo, 11
80122 Naples (NA)
Best Western San Germano. Via Beccadelli, 41 - 80125
Naples (NA)
Decumani Hotel de Charme. Via San Giovanni Maggiore
Pignatelli, 15 - 80100 Naples (NA)
Ferdinando II. Piazza Carlo III, 59 - 80137 Naples (NA)
Holiday Inn Naples. Via Ausilio Centro Direzionale E6 80143 Naples (NA)
La Ciliegina. Via Paolo Emilio Imbriani, 30
80133 Naples (NA)
Le Chemineé. Via Stadera, 91 - 80143 Naples (NA)
Magri’s. Via Galileo Ferraris, 118/a
80146 Naples (NA)
Majestic. Largo Vasto a Chiaia, 68
80121 Naples (NA)
Mercure Angioino. Via Depretis, 123 - Naples (NA)
MH Design Hotel. Via Chiaia, 245
80121 - Naples (NA)
Miramare. Via Nazario Sauro, 24
80132 - Naples (NA)
Naples. Corso Umberto I, 55 - 80138 Naples (NA)
Nh Ambassador. Via Medina, 70
80133 Naples (NA)
Nuvò. Via Nuova Agnano, 5 - 80125 Naples (NA)
Oriente Grand Hotel. Via Armando Diaz, 44
80134 Naples (NA)
Palazzo Esedra. Piazzale Tecchio, 50
80125 Naples (NA)
Palazzo Turchini. Via Medina, 21-22 - 80132 - Naples (NA)
Ramada Naples. Via Galileo Ferraris, 40 80142 Naples (NA)
Renaissance Naples Hotel Mediterraneo. Via ponte di
Tappia, 25 - 80133 Naples (NA)
Residenza Echie. Via Chiatamone, 37 - 80121 Naples (NA)
Residenza Le Rose Villa d’Arte.
Discesa Gaiola, 73 80123 Naples (NA)
Royal Continental. Via Partenope, 38/44
80121 Naples (NA)
Santa Brigida. Via Santa Brigida, 6 - 80133 Naples (NA)
Suite Esedra. Via A. Cantani, 12 - 80133 Naples (NA)
Santa Lucia Grand Hotel. Via Partenope, 46
80121 Naples (NA)
StarHotels Terminus. Piazza Garibaldi, 91
80142 Naples (NA)
Una Hotel Napoli. Piazza Garibaldi, 9-10
80133 Naples (NA)
5 STAR COAST&ISLANDS
Belmond Hotel Caruso. Piazza San Giovanni del Toro, 2
84010 Ravello (SA)
Caesar Augustus. Via G. Orlandi, 4
80071 Anacapri, Capri (NA)
Casa Angelina. Via Capriglione, 147 - 84010 Praiano (SA)
Cocumella. Via Cocumella, 7 - 80065 Sant’Agnello di
Sorrento (NA)
Covo dei Saraceni. Via Regina Giovanna, 5 - 84017
Positano (SA)
Don Alfonso 1890. Corso Sant’Agata, 11/13 - 80064
Sant’Agata sui Due Golfi (NA)
Grand Hotel Excelsior Terme. Via E. Gianturco, 19 - 80077
Ischia (NA)
Grand Hotel Il Saraceno. Via Giovanni Augustariccio, 33
84011 Amalfi (SA)
Grand Hotel Tenuta Lupò. Via Laura, 201 - 84063
Capaccio/Paestum (SA)
Il Moresco Grand Hotel & SPA. Via E. Gianturco, 16
80077 Ischia (NA)
L’albergo della Regina Isabella.
Piazza Santa Restituta, 1 - 80076 Lacco Ameno, Ischia (NA)
Le Agavi. Via Guglielmo Marconi, 127 - Positano (SA)
La Scalinatella. Via Tragara, 8 - 80073 Capri (NA)
Lusso Grand Hotel Excelsior Vittoria. Piazza Tasso, 34 80067 - Sorrento (NA)
Mezzatorre Resort & SPA. Via Mezzatorre, 23 - 80075 Forio, Ischia (NA)
Monastero Santa Rosa Hotel & Spa. Via Roma, 2
84010 - Conca dei Marini (SA)
Parco dei Principi. Via Rota, 44 - 80067 Sorrento (NA)
Punta Molino Hotel. Lungomare C. Colombo, 23
80077 Ischia (NA)
Punta Tragara. Via Tragara, 57 - 80073 Capri (NA)
4 STAR COAST&ISLANDS
A Pazziella. Via Fuorlovado, 36 - 80073 Capri (NA)
Amleto. Via Bartolo Longo, 10 - 80045 Pompei (NA)
W H E R E N A P L E S I C O A S T & I S L A N D S I 2015
Ariston. Via Laura, 13 84040 Capaccio/Paestum (SA)
Art Hotel Gran Paradiso. Via Catigliano, 9 - 80067
Sorrento (NA)
Best Western Hotel Esplanade. Via Poseidonia, 291
84063 Paestum (SA)
Continental Ischia. Via M. Mazzella, 70 - 80077 Ischia (NA)
Corallo. Rione Cappuccini, 12 80065 Sant’Agnello di Sorrento (NA)
Domina Home Royal. Via Pasitea, 344
84017 Positano (SA)
Elna Park Hotel Terme. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 57 - 80074
Casamicciola Terme, Ischia (NA)
Gatto Bianco. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 32 - 80073 Capri (NA)
Grand Hotel Convento di Amalfi. Via Annunziatella, 46
84011 Amalfi (SA)
Hotel Helios. Via Capo, 33 - 80067 Sorrento (NA)
La Conca Azzurra. Via Smeraldo, 35 - 84010 Conca dei
Marini (SA)
La Minerva. Via Occhio Marino, 8 - 80073 Capri (NA)
La Palma. Via Vittorio Emanuele, 39
80073 Capri (NA)
L’Approdo. Via Eddomade, 29 - 80074 Casamicciola Terme,
Ischia (NA)
La Residenza. Via Rota, 44 - 80067 Sorrento (NA)
Maison Tofani. Via San Cesareo, 34 - 80067 Sorrento (NA)
Marad. Via Benedetto Croce, 29 - 80059 Torre del Greco (NA)
Michelangelo. Via Corso Italia, 275 - 80067 Sorrento (NA)
Oasi Olimpia Relais. Via Deserto, 26 - 80061 Sant’Agata sui
due Golfi, Massa Lubrense (NA)
Palazzo Murat. Via dei Mulini, 23 - Positano (SA)
Park Hotel Terme Mediterraneo. Via Provinciale Panza
80075 Forio d’Ischia (NA)
Poseidon. Via Cesare Battisti, 80, Torre del Greco (NA)
Punta Imperatore. Via G. Mazzella, 18
80075 Forio, Ischia (NA)
Regina. Via Marina Grande, 10 - 80067 Sorrento (NA)
Relais Bad and Breakfast Corte degli Aragonesi.
Corso Vittorio Colonna, 108 - Ischia Porto (NA)
Relais Blu. Via Roncato, 60
80061 Massa Lubrense (NA)
Relais Regina Giovanna. Via Calata di Puolo, 1
80067 Sorrento (NA)
Residence Miramare. Via Capo, 60
80067 Sorrento (NA)
San Valentino Hotel. Via leonardo Mazzella, 90
80077 Ischia (NA)
Savoy Beach Hotel. Via Poseidonia, 41
84047 Paestum (SA)
S Continental. Piazza della Vittoria, 4 - 80067 Sorrento (NA)
Towers Hotel Stabiae Sorrento Coast.
S.S. Sorrentina, 145. Km. 12.400
80053 Castellammare di Stabia (NA)