Editorial Contents
Transcript
Editorial Contents
Editorial Contents eason’s greetings to you all. As Yuletide approaches. our minds turn to the year that is now passing and the new year yet to come. For my part, I simply wish for twelve straight months of health that don’t remind me that I’m entering the minefield of middle age! In danger of becoming the archetypal Grumpy Old Man, I find myself muttering about the litany of ranging shots that the Artillery of Life has been sending my way since this time last year. The best thing I can do is avoid the signalled barrage altogether so, be warned, 2010 will see this Editor on something of a major health drive. I quit smoking about 15 years ago, but the waistline has remained stubbornly entrenched, and the offensives I have launched against it have taken withering defensive fire and retreated with poor morale. Fear not, I have plans in place to achieve total victory, as well as to put this extended metaphor out of its misery. So what’s been good about 2009? If we ignore the realworld gloom (and what is a hobby for if not to escape from those things beyond our control from time to time?), then we must surely celebrate the continuing creativity and output of those driving the hobby forward. Makers of miniatures, scenery and paint all continue to dazzle us with their astounding products. Sometimes, it really is worth looking back over our shoulders to remember what a struggle it used to be, not so long ago, to assemble the miniature armies we wanted, on the terrain we wanted, and for the right price. Nowadays, we catch ourselves whingeing about the embarras de richesse that the hobby provides. Lucky us, and long may it continue. The output of superlative books and magazines should also be cause for celebration. Houses such as Osprey, Pen and Sword, Casemate, Ken Trotman and Partizan Press, as well as smaller ventures such as John Curry Events and 18thcenturypress.com, provide us with a wealth of superb reference works with which to stock our wargaming libraries. And finally, I salute the editors of Wargames Illustrated, Miniature Wargames, Wargames Soldiers and Strategy, Dadi e Piombo, Vae Victis and the mighty White Dwarf, together with those who labour as unsung heroes compiling countless club and society magazines, websites and podcasts – without them all, our hobby would be the poorer. My sincere best wishes for Christmas and 2010 to you all. Editorial 3 A brush with Mr Kipling 4 Forward Observer 7 Gaming the balance 9 Diane Sutherland, UK Mike Siggins, UK Gary Mitchell, UK Talking wargaming: invincible squares? 13 Table top teaser 15 If it ain’t broke: WRG 5th Edition 20 A visit to Osprey Publishing 26 Trapped in the Birdcage: Salonika 1915-17 31 Recce 35 The Battlegames Combat Stress Appeal: update 45 Events November/December 2009 46 Competition and classified ads 47 Chris Scott, UK C. S. Grant, UK Robin Miles, UK Henry Hyde, UK Barry Lee, UK New goodies reviewed by our team file Our campaign to help support ex-service personnel continues Richard Tyndall, UK Win a Minden Miniatures battalion! The Battlegames shop The place to order your subscription and much more 48 Sa mp le S Battlegames magazine is a bimonthly publication of Battlegames Ltd, 17 Granville Road, Hove BN3 1TG, East Sussex. Company No. 5616568. All content © Battlegames and its contributors. Strictly no reproduction without prior written consent. All rights reserved. Opinions expressed in articles are those of the individual authors and reviewers concerned. Editor: Henry Hyde, email [email protected], tel. 01273 323320. Web: www.battlegames.co.uk Design, layout and typesetting by Henry Hyde in Adobe InDesign and Adobe Photoshop on Apple Intel iMac. Set in Adobe Warnock Pro and Helvetica Neue. Photography by Henry Hyde using Fuji S7000 except where otherwise credited. More than 50 episodes! M In-depth interviews with hobby personalities and reviews of miniatures, strategy boardgames and wargaming rules M “View from the Veranda” specials with Henry Hyde M Available direct from www.meeplesandminiatures.co.uk or subscribe via iTunes Cover: A fort for Northwest Frontier games created by husband and wife team Diane and Jon Sutherland from recycled food packaging, as described in the continuing tales of our wargames widow. It’s amazing what you can do with a little dedicated scoffing and some imagination! Photo by Jon Sutherland. Copy editing and proofing by Henry Hyde and Steve Gill Blog: http://battlegames.wordpress.com/ Printed by Treetop Design and Print on environmentally-friendly paper. Special thanks to David Hayward for his support. Podcast: “View from the Veranda” with Neil Shuck can be downloaded from http://www.meeplesandminiatures.co.uk/ Advertisers, contributors and businesses wishing to send samples for photography and review should contact the Editor. PLEASE KEEP US ADVISED OF ANY POSTAL OR EMAIL ADDRESS CHANGES. STAY IN TOUCH! TRADE PLEASE NOTE: Battlegames does NOT ask its reviewers to contact companies direct unless by previous arrangement authorised by the Editor in writing. In all other cases, please send items for review to the address above Subscription enquiries should be addressed to the Editor or you can subscribe online. Current rates (as at September 2009) are £31.50 per annum post-free in the UK; EU Airmail £36.00; Rest of the World Economy Airmail £43.00. All event notifications for inclusion in our calendar should be sent to Richard Tyndall (Tricks) of the Newark Irregulars at [email protected] All submissions and articles should initially be sent to the Editor. We recommend submission of articles via email. Battlegames Ltd takes no responsibility for unsolicited articles. Please apply or see our website for submission guidelines. Copy and advertising closing date for next edition: December 18th 2009 Battlegames 3 A brush with Mr Kipling The continuing tales of a wargames widow 1 by Diane Sutherland I This is the basic structure of the fort. Lengths of polystyrene from a freezer delivery, Mr Kipling cake boxes; Greek vine leaf tins and cardboard tubes. file with later using wall filler. The cake boxes are 5" across; to make them multi-functional, we based them on a 5" square of MDF. That way, they could be used as corners and as straight walling. The wall sections are 18" long; each is different. Two are basic straight walling; one has the gate section with cardboard tube towers, the final one utilises four empty tins of Greek vine leaves for towers. For the wall tops, we found some sheets of small wall tiles left over from the redecorated kitchen, and these were stuck onto the tops of the walling and the towers. Buildings were added to the inside of the walls using 5mm Floormaster polystyrene, balsa wood doors and shaped plastic windows. Now, we turned our attention to the ‘buttering’ of the Sa mp le expect the more literary-minded of you flicked straight to this page in the eager anticipation of finding a compelling article on one of Britain’s greatest poets and wits. Perhaps how his prose could be used to fashion scenarios for the tabletop? I apologise for having misled you, but to offset the disappointment let me begin with my own words, in the style of the great man: You can keep your ’eathen cakes, Them Panettones are too flighty, Tasty Bakewell or mincemeat tarts, Remind you of good old Blighty! You may have now gathered that this article does not concern colonial period poetry; there’s no mention of Tommy Atkins or Fuzzy Wuzzies either. I had been tempted to entitle this piece “Let Them Eat Cake”, but I’m not sure how many of you would have been drawn in by Marie Antoinette. Therein lays the connection and why a wargame widow’s diet can be influenced by terrain and building projects. I kid you not. Imagine the scene. Be honest. You are a wargamer and an honourable one too. Every visit to a supermarket with a wargamer in tow involves the said wargamer looking at the packaging of products in an unfamiliar way. The wargamer has little interest in the marketing messages on the packaging; he cares not a jot for the bright colours or the fact that the packaging is a hazard to future generations. No, he is interested in the shape, the structure and the sturdiness of the packaging. In short, its alternative uses as a tower, a gateway, a structure or a linear obstacle. To be frank, he’s not that interested in the contents of the packaging either. Now I’m the sort of girl that, if asked, “What type of cake do you like?” will simply answer “I don’t care, I just like cake.” Any size, flavour, ingredients or origin is fine with me. I do draw the line at having my cake choice restricted by the wargamer’s desire to obtain four identical cake boxes. These are needed, apparently, to make four towers for a walled city. Mercifully, I have an obliging mother-in-law with an even more serious cake addiction than my own. b A strangely shaped cake box attracted our attention on the supermarket shelf. Mr Kipling Bitesize Cakes, to be precise. The great thing about this masterpiece of marketing is the fact that (upside down at least) it looks like a tower, a perfect bastion for a walled city or a fort. Not content with a simple tower, we wanted a ten-foot set of walls to stretch across the entire length of the wargames table. So-called ‘white goods’ are a fantastic source of high density polystyrene; they are designed to protect the edges of the fridge or washing machine in transit. We cut down the polystyrene, making sure that we retain the lumps and bumps. There’s no need to worry about having gaps at the bottom of the walls; these can be dealt 4 Battlegames 2 This is one of the straight walling sections with wall tiles fixed in place. The gaps have been filled with blocks of wood (from a mini-Jenga game), half cardboard tubing used for magazines and laminate flooring underlay for the building fronts. Roofs are made from plaited grass place mats. walls and towers. This is an odd technique. To be honest, it looks dreadful when it’s finished, but have faith; once you have sanded it down and knocked out all the major lumps, it looks the part. Use wall filler or plaster that you have to mix yourself. Normally, we use the ready mixed variety, but for this you want a runny, soft butter or thick cream consistency. You can either paint it on with a 1" brush or use a freebie coffee stirrer from Starbucks. Don’t worry too much about going over features; you want a nice thick coat. Reapply where necessary, sand down where 3 broken pair. To achieve this, we temporarily stuck a pair of the washers in the gate opening and applied the ground texture around them. The sets of gates were made from balsawood and were painted in the same way as the doors. Using exterior paints means that the whole construction is somewhat tougher and more resilient. It is also matte, so there is no need to varnish the walling or the towers. 5 This is the whole stretch of walling and towers after basic construction. The additional tower in the centre was added so that the walling covered the ten feet length of the wargames table. the coverage is patchy. For the roofs of the buildings, we used plaited grass table place mats. Cut them roughly to size and fix with wood glue. You can trim them when they are dry. To make the walling complete, we added a simple square tower. It sports a section of cardboard tubing with half a plastic ball, a Christmas bell and a cheap golf tee. Once the groundwork is dry, give it a dry brush with white then add some patches of static grass and Woodland Scenics Clump foliage to taste. This building project is a long one. Ideally, it needs to be done in stages to allow for drying time. The net result is that you can construct a fortification that will run across the whole length of the table, or you can use it as a corner or centrepiece. Obviously there are alternatives for smaller scales or if you cannot get your hands on big lumps of polystyrene. Cardboard tubes and tin cans make wonderful towers; they will not be recognisable once you have finished. Sa mp le file 4 This one is a Mr Kipling cake box and the large square tower, both with a thorough coat of Sandtex Bitter Chocolate. The paint dries very quickly and allows you to press on with the project. Here is a roughly ‘buttered’ Mr Kipling cake box, which has been stuck to a 5” square of MDF and has a balsawood door and a plastic window. The structure has been partially sanded. Everything is now given a liberal coat of Sandtex Bitter Chocolate. When this is dry, give everything except the roofs of the buildings a heavy wet brush of Sandtex Mid Stone. We gave the roofs a wet brush of Sandtex Brick Red, then the Mid Stone. Again, allow to dry. Now give everything a thorough, heavy, dry brush of Sandtex Cornish Cream, finishing off with a brilliant white. Any white will do – we use basic craft paint. You can make this a heavy covering of white and the recessed detail will still show through. The next job is to pick out the detailing. Since none of the buildings are designed to put figures inside, the windows were painted black. At this stage, we gave the doors a covering of Brick Red, Mid Stone and then Cornish Cream. The tower on the extra building was given a thick coat of bronze, and then dry brushed with gold. To blend in with our terrain tiles, we use a mix of brown paint and sand. Two wet coats are usually better than one thick one. It was at this point that we realised that we had forgotten the gates! We had some large metal washers lying around from another project and we made three sets of gates: one closed set, one open set and another 6 These are the wall sections after three layers of paint, but the last coat of white has not been added. By sanding down the filler before the paint is applied you can get a good rough surface that will respond well to wet and dry brushing. Also consider making the basic carcass of the walls out of foamcore or flooring underlay. All you need to do is to make a basic “h” shape the length you need. Once this is based, it will be surprisingly strong. Always think modular too – not only does this give you more options Battlegames 5 7 8 This is the open version of the gate section; a simple balsawood gate has been stuck to each of the large metal washers. Note that the gates can be removed and replaced with shut or destroyed versions. le file the polystyrene first and giving it a more watery filler coat. Another final point to bear in mind is to continually check that what you are making is in scale. The height of the crenellations on the walling should not be too tall for a standing firing figure, and you should think about the sizes of the doors, the heights of the windows and the steepness of any steps. b So, the next time you take a trip to the supermarket with a wargamer, be aware of sudden changes in eating habits. You can never quite tell if the wargamer has a genuine desire to try something new, or it may just be that it’s not the contents the wargamer is interested in. I leave you as I began; with a ditty Rudyard Kipling might have been proud of himself: Old ’enry ’yde wants more subscribers, ’E wants your bleedin’ names, ’E wants your ’earts and souls too, Signed up to Battlegames. Sa mp The finished walling now occupied by defenders. The ladders were made from cut sections of roller blinds and could benefit from a three-layer paint coating used for the wood work. when you use it, but it is a darn sight easier to store. The other option to consider is the more Western-style castle or walling. Similar techniques will work just as well, although the key difference will be scribing the surface of Hang on, why is my cake slice covered in Polyfilla? 9 An attacker’s eye view of the walls. Small stones were stuck at the base of the walling to cover gaps. The gate section has been fitted with the closed gates. 6 Battlegames Forward observer Bushel lifting, figure frisson, arboriculture and more... file le I am often accused of hiding my light under a bushel. It is mainly me doing the accusing, in fairness, but there is some truth in the matter. This trait is shared by Keith Warren at Realistic Modelling Services. Keith sells an excellent range of rules under the Real Time Wargames brand, but can one easily find them on his website? Frankly, no! It is therefore my mission to put this to rights. It was left to my friend Charles to discover the rules, buy them, and set up games to test them. Boy, am I glad he did. We have so far played the Marlburian set exclusively, but the Sudan, 1866, Seven Years War and Napoleonics have been digested and games are planned in the near future. So keen am I on the 1866 set that I have made figure counters… This selection accounts for just half the range, so we have a lot to look forward to. In short, and no messing about here, these are some of the best rules I have seen since I started the hobby. Clever ideas, original mechanisms, unusual command perspectives, and decent or better history. Most importantly for this jaded old sausage, they are fresh, atmospheric, and they work. Okay, there are some minor queries, but nothing to worry about. Keith has a team of co-designers and developers that reads like a Who’s Who (a dreadful cliché, but true), and they have come up with some classy stuff. Let me tell you about the Spanish Succession set, because that should hopefully convey my enthusiasm. There is a type of game where my opponents and I go very quiet, play solidly with no thought of abandoning, and find that three hours have slipped by, fully engrossed. We then look at each other knowing that we have experienced an excellent game (this is an odd mixture of surprise, relief, enjoyment, and re-affirmation of the hobby). These are just such a set of rules. mp Low key marketing The game is essentially a matrix of locations, set in the Low Countries. A location may contain a fort, an impassable area, or other terrain. Each location is rated for foraging, but this is cleverly kept secret through use of a clever card system. Each side recruits their army, splits them into administrative units under commanders, and deploys onto the cramped map environment. A tough, decision-heavy game of manoeuvre, scouting, diplomacy and guile develops, where you must handle an overall plan, local strategies, and commanders of varying ability. Battles occur, which can be resolved using the system or fought separately with figures. The whole narrative unfolds superbly, feeling like the period. It is a minicampaign that plays in the timeframe of a battle. I am deeply impressed. Now I am not an expert on the Marlburian period, but like many of us I have read a bit over the years. The game seems to generate a lot of the flavour and history of the books, which is all I ask, while also giving us a fascinating game to play out. That combination seems to be the grail of wargame design, and here we have it for £6.50. I can’t recommend these rules highly enough, but do make sure you search the site – they are there! Sudan and 1866 next time. Sa by Mike Siggins Being moved Pete Waterman is an interesting chap. Rightly accused of inflicting some pretty vile music on our ears, as well as some good stuff, he is also a railway modeller, manufacturer and preserver adored by many in that cousin to our hobby. In short, he does some good work with his millions. He has a couple of books out at the moment, which sure enough meant he appeared on the radio. [Metaphysical question: can you “appear” on the radio? Ed.] Chatting away happily about models, it was quite refreshing for someone to be doing this without reticence, and for the presenter (Simon Mayo) to be treating him with respect. The comment that struck home, and why I am waffling again, was that Pete felt that while music could give you that frisson, models could not. I have to disagree. There is no doubt that the visceral Nessun Dorma or Nimrod are hard to match, but I have certainly had the old spine tingle when viewing an outstanding game, model or paintjob. Treemendus Yes, it’s a pun, but fortunately not one of mine. Treemendus is a new company specialising in tree making materials and custom builds. This is a specialised art, in which I very much like to dabble. We nutters will go to great lengths to make a nice looking tree, and any help is welcomed. The added requirement for wargame trees is of course that they are tough enough to survive regular handling, squashing and storage. In this aim, Treemendus sell an excellent range of relevant materials. One can start with the 12" wire lengths (£5), which are easily twisted into armatures and have an almost perfect balance between strength and ease of working. Depending on complexity, I can get about five really convincing tree forms from one pack. Next up is a bark mixture, which I have yet to purchase. While I would usually add readily available rubberised horsehair for branches, I do also use postiche (false hair) for the more delicate types of tree. Treemendus sell this under the name of Canopy, and very good it is too. Finally, there is a range of foliage/scatter packs which are not only the right scale for 20mm to 28mm, but they also have impressive, realistic colour tones. If it helps convey my satisfaction, my first request was whether I could buy bigger bags! Treemendus also sell sheets of fur fabric in convenient sizes, which you can’t have failed to notice on the wargames circuit as long grass. The only negative here is the Treemendus name, for which I am docking him a point! Otherwise, highly recommended and well worth investigating. www.treemendusmodels.co.uk Audible belt tightening In the past I have moaned, perhaps too frequently, about the ever escalating Battlegames 7 Pigment wars Last time I reviewed the new Vallejo pigment sets and it seems that I was not alone in my concerns on relative pricing and performance. Later that month, a piece appeared on the MiG website comparing their own pigments with those from Vallejo, trying to explain why MiG’s cost rather more. This article had an underlying indignant feel, and was about as convincing as a study by the Coffee Marketing Board on the undoubted health benefits of coffee. But it prompted me to leap into action, so at the next opportunity I bought myself a large pot of Sennelier ochre artists’ pigment (£5) and experimented. In the frame we have MiG, Bragdon, Vallejo and Sennelier. MiG is the people’s favourite, and a tried and 8 Battlegames file trusted runner. Bragdon is ridden by Chuck Doan, perhaps the world’s greatest modeller (controversial!), and so must be considered by the bookies. Vallejo are a well known stable, and Sennelier are the handicap horse. In short, there are indeed differences. What is immediately clear is that the specialist pigments (MiG and Bragdon) are much more finely ground, and so look and feel different on the palette. These two also claim to have extra ingredients to promote adhesion. This would also appear to be true, as they both stick better when applied ‘dry’ than the others. What they also do, when mixed with thinners, alcohol or water, is settle exactly as one would expect them to. Vallejo were next best here, while the Sennelier needed a fair deal of working with an old brush to get it to lie down. Ironically, as a final comparison, I ground up some Unison pastels and these were perhaps the best of the lot! More tests to follow, and I would appreciate your findings. Bend it like Beckham mp le So, Reddiprene38. I am sure you will remember her as the third replicant from Blade Runner. But no, of course, I am joking. This is one of those newfangled, hi-tech polymer-plastic-type materials we are always hearing about on Tomorrow’s World, brought to the wargames market by modelscenery. com (who clearly didn’t get the memo about dotcoms being a bit passé). The product, for such an exciting name, is a little underwhelming. And quite heavy. In truth, some of it looks like those black liquorice strips you got at the corner shop. Or one of those ribbon cables we attached to hard drives in the Olden Days. There are also ‘sections’, such as hexagonal rod. It also comes in flat, or patterned, plasticard-like sheets in various thicknesses (0.6mm to 3.0mm), all suitable for modelling. These seem to be mainly 200mm x 120mm, so I would recommend they look to provide larger sheets to avoid joining problems. So, what is the trick? What is the special skill that will make us gape in awe? Well, if you heat this stuff up, it will hold its shape. Something similar adorns the back of Woodland Scenics grass mats, so that you can get out the hairdryer and conform them to a hill. Or a younger brother. You can also poke it, carve it (there is Sa price of metal figures. This is down to a number of reasons: becoming a grumpy old man; railing against the Ansell Assertion; gaining a mortgage; and being increasingly frustrated at seeing first £1 and then £2 per figure breached in some areas. In the end, because it seemed people kept buying regardless, I simply shut up and reverted to plastics, in the main. To an extent I also mellowed. I took the view that paying a bit more would help keep some very talented individuals in work, if not Ferraris, and ultimately one cannot argue with market forces, even those working in our turbulent little niche. Metal prices went up, the economy is all over the shop (as you may have spotted) and £20 seems to barely get one out of the house. I was also curious to see what the ‘natural’ level was, from an admittedly smug position of already having more lead than one man would ever need. But then along came plastics, the credit crunch, and what must be a very worrying period as far as discretionary retail purchases go. Frugality is the new buzzword, many of us are looking at the Lead Mountain and thinking, hmm, perhaps I should do something about that first. And of course more new, superb figures and models arrive every month to test my resolve… I am not well attuned to Austerity. Whatever, this year or next, I think, there may have to be a pricing correction and I believe Renegade have made an astute business decision in their approach. What do you think? no grain), press shapes into it, and as one would expect it can be cut, glued (cyanos) and painted. Phew. I tried acrylics on it, and there is, surprisingly, a degree of ‘soak’. I would definitely prime, and I might experiment with Unibond PVA or similar. It doesn’t sand well; it just roughs up. Exciting stuff, then. Great fun to play with. You can even heat it several times. Time passes. About now you realise that it is not Play Doh and that you need a real life project. Modelscenery.com have pictures of buildings, with brick effect, but frankly these look a bit naff due to gaps in the superstructure. For those thinking Linka for the New Century, one house point (and are you enjoying your bus pass?) And for flat planes, why would you not just use textured plasticard? It’s a lot cheaper. No, Reddiprene’s talents lie in the curvaceous realm. To test this stuff, I decided to try and make one of those cobbled country lanes that have a bump in the middle. I made a former out of balsa, roughed it up a bit, and selected a small sheet of the Reddiprene38. Heated up, the plastic slowly drapes itself over the former and takes on the shape desired. There is some working time while it cools, so you can pull and push the stuff around. I would think shaping the cobbles would be a simple re-heat and press. The same process should let you make turrets, cast armour, smooth fairings and the like. My only concern is that it may not hold very tight curves, which will see you returning to the plasticard and oven… It is the corniest statement in the world to say this product is limited by your imagination. It is clearly more limited than that. But, you know, the more I played with it and got it to do some weird bendy (okay, fun) stuff, the more I thought towers; sagging roofs; fuel pipes; corrugated sheet; flags (obvious Siggins, come on!); curved walls; sails and yes, any number of scratchbuilding uses (especially if you are a sci-fi modeller). Being a jaded old cynic, I can’t go overboard about this product because I haven’t yet stretched it enough (sorry), but it is promising. I am sure you will find a use for it, and when the second and third generation products come along we will be wondering how we lived without it. Find out more on their website at www.modelscenery.com.