Rho Milano Linea Pelle Trend Selection We leather you
Transcript
Rho Milano Linea Pelle Trend Selection We leather you
9 number www.tuscaniaspa.it Founded in 1991 THE MURMUR of a bee A witchcraft yieldeth me. If any ask me why, ’Twere easier to die Than tell. Emily Dickinson We leather you The rebellion of the form Rho Milano Linea Pelle Trend Selection The ever-changing international trade fair puts colour at centre stage Loyal and supportive readers of our T Post, now in its 9th edition, will notice that the title remains the same. The truth is that since we created the “We leather You” slogan, we have realized just how much it belongs to us, to what extent it’s an integral part of our being a brilliant, extrovert, friendly and reliable tanning business. We leather You. Two personal pronouns, a singular noun: these alone are enough to create a story, tell a tale, point to a path, allow interpretation, surprise, highlight the fact that “You” and “We”, through “leather”, can build our flourishing commercial destinies. It’s easy to say, unless you have the patience and curiosity to visit our promotional installation, our stand, with the critical eye of the traveller, attentive to detail, eager to experience the surprise of an innovative, concrete, iconic array of leather products. In a nutshell, we feel we can reaffirm the concept: We leather You. And if, just over a month from now, you are able to visit the new Tuscania spa operations base, you’ll reach the conclusion that actually, this editorial displays remarkable correspondence with our: WE LEATHER YOU! Articles from left to right Macrame, Imperia, Kidima, Metal India Tuscania Industria Conciaria spa: Pav. 15P Stand H23/H29 - K24/K30 FW 17+18 Sign & Colour: oblivion of being Showcase SS 2017 by Silvia Matteoli Once more at this edition of Linea Pelle, we will see an increase in the number of visitors who opt to go straight into the Trend Areas. And yes, it really is necessary to get an overview of what’s on offer immediately. Regular visitors only need a glance to assess the stated value, the density, the specific weight of the trade fair. Naturally every visitor has already arranged a series of meetings; nevertheless, this does not exclude the possibility of inserting new names deemed interesting having browsed the various Trend Areas. Big kisses! Tuscania POST: director Fredi Perucci photographer Jacopo Caggiano redaction Sara Maggio Issue #9: Fall Winter 17+18 The red upon the hill Taketh away my will; If anybody sneer, Take care, for God is here, That ’s all. Emily Dickinson Sursum Corda Nostalgia prevails The triumph of happiness Organizing the transfer of a Tannery from a beloved old building, timeworn and full of memories, dear faces, meetings, clashes and witticisms to an enormous, elegant building, perfectly partitioned, all kitted out with brand new production plant and able to surprise and astonish... as we were saying, on the one hand it’s thrilling and joyful, but on the other hand, nostalgia puts a brake on our enthusiasm. We’re not the first business to uproot and move to new premises, but what can we do, the feeling uppermost in our minds - and we say this most sincerely - is nostalgia! Does a happiness exist which fills the body and the spirit, reaches the depths of our being? Happiness that bursts with enthusiasm, that multiplies a thousand times? The eye, incredulous, asks questions with no answers. The hopeless dream remains, delicious, beguiling, intoxicating, until we awake and catastrophe immediately plays its tune. In the face of absolute beauty our destiny wobbles, becomes confused, collapses, is utterly wrecked. Dear Facebook, tell me who I am Beautiful - ugly. Tall - short. Happy - sad. That’s it! During his first presidential election campaign in 1990, Ronald Reagan was in the habit of telling an anecdote from the Second World War: the Republican candidate remembered pinning a medal on a heroic pilot who, when his bomber was hit by Nazi fire, ordered the crew to bail out, while he stayed with an injured soldier as the plane plummeted. It was a moving story, and Reagan himself couldn’t hold back a tear as he quoted the pilot’s last words: “Don’t worry son, we’ll bring it down together”. There was just one problem: it wasn’t a memory, but a scene from the 1944 film Wing and a Prayer. 40% of 35 to 44 year-olds store most of their information on their smartphones, according to a study by Kaspersky Lab. In Plato’s Phaedrus, the god Theuth brings the alphabet to King Thamus as a gift, introducing writing as the remedy to make the Egyptians wiser and improve their memories; but instead of being glad, Thalmus becomes gloomy, claiming that if they put their trust in the written word, the Egyptians will forget how to use their memories. The text dates back to the 4th century BC, but Plato was not far off the mark. In this respect, any system that helps us to externalize our memories also risks compromising our capacity to remember. Just as Reagan confused a scene from a film with a real memory, so some pathological liars end up believing their own lies, and those who spend hours every day tarting up their social media images might find themselves - as Sole 24 ore reminds us - kidding themselves that the version of themselves smiling from the other side of the screen is likeable, witty and altruistic - or at least until they set foot outside the house! Article Macrame Poetry is life, the definitive point Usually, in previous editions of our T Post, we have chosen to dedicate this extensive space to poetry. We have always considered it a duty, a moral, ethical and intellectual obligation, even a necessity, accustomed as we are to regarding poetry as the Art of Arts, the Great Art. In this 9th edition, we were considering talking about Eugenio Montale, inspired to do so by one of his poems, which highlights an aspect of life that’s somewhat horribly intriguing: an opening. Entwined as we are in a network which all too often prevents us from thinking, from seeing beyond it, the Genoese poet advises us to seek a flaw, a little chink in the mesh, which will allow us to look out once more on the world’s stage and make a fresh start. Subsequently, we were won over by the idea of discussing Paul Celan. The poet of metaphysical anxiety, the futility of existence, the pain of memory. Celan staked his whole existence, his future perfect, on an important meeting. He went to visit the philosopher Martin Heidegger in his cabin in the mountains, and it was a disaster. In April 1970, Paul Celan committed suicide, throwing himself in the Seine. The breaking of the day Addeth to my degree; If any ask me how, Artist, who drew me so, Must tell! Emily Dickinson Zeus - Amalthea - Aegis The legend of a collection Zeus - the Aegis shield Amalthea - star among stars The subtle allure of Greek mythology! And so: Amalthea was the she-goat who suckled Zeus on Mount Ida in Crete. When he became King of the Gods, Zeus thanked her by giving her horns special power: their owner could obtain anything he desired. Hence the legend of the “horn of plenty”, or Cornucopia, also known as the Horn of Amalthea. On her death, Zeus placed Amalthea with her two kids among the stars; moreover, advised by Themis, he took her skin and used it as armour during the battle with his father, and this protection became known as the Aegis. Legend among legends! Yes. You know, this is a creative compulsive time. Once the fairs end and performance on the world’s catwalks finishes, designers and stylists, stop and think, they examine notes, listen to the atmosphere, visit untitled contemporary art exhibits and events, leaf through magazines unknown to most people, phone to obscure individuals who know how to interpret the Zeitgeist of the period, attending troubled places. We are not different! ZEUS The colour of the Myth Let’s brainstorm for a moment, get a pencil and paper if you need to, it’ll make life easier. So, in a nutshell: write, or think of, or say aloud, the names of all the brands in circulation on Planet Earth which can be linked directly or indirectly to Greek mythology. You’ll immediately find it a difficult task. And if you limit the search just within the Fashion industry, even here the list will be considerable. It’s no accident: firms search mythology for brand names, to give themselves a chance to become a myth. Could we ignore their example? No. We couldn’t. And thus, with holy Cistercian patience, backed by the immensity of the Web and the classics texts we studied in our schooldays, we dug around in mythology, and immediately came up with the she-goat Amalthea. Incredible! It really was she who suckled Zeus. ZEUS! A great name for a brand! Short, concise, immediate, strong, surrounded by a thousand stories, a thousand artistic references. Amalthea - Zeus, to follow the Titans and the Shield of Zeus: the Aegis. Then there are the Satyrs, habitually portrayed as humans with the ears, horns, tails and hooves of a goat, and the Fauns, human in form, but with a goat’s hooves and horns. Short words, but packed with Greek and Latin meanings referring to the goat. And so, our problem now was to find a valid and coherent name for a collection of items produced using goatskin, Mongolian goatskin. To sum up: Amalthea, Aegis, Faun, Satyr, Zeus. The winner is clear: ZEUS. And therefore Tuscania Spa Industria Conciaria is delighted to present the ZEUS Fall/Winter 17+18 Collection, a collection backed by the irresistible force of Colour. Colour, the everlasting giddiness that knows neither embarrassment nor modesty, the need for an experience to live, the spasmodic desire to tap into its mystery, a mystery that thrills, intoxicates, moves. The colour of the Myth! Articles from top to bottom Kidima Unito, Filo, Lollo Wash, Tejus Kele, Taima Wash WORKS We leather you, together We are fond of our identifying slogan, we can’t - and perhaps we don’t want to - replace it; it’s not about affection, on the contrary, constant research into new solutions is part of us, it characterises our approach to the advancement of a business. However, in this case, we prefer to stick with it once more. At the moment, for instance, we’re presenting our new range of products named ZEUS: the starting point is the Mongolian Goat. Lightweight, resistant, extraordinary, perfect for use in footwear. LAB Permanent testing Innovation, Research & Development, Eco-sustainability. Essential assets for us at Tuscania SPA, the landmark in the leather accessories sector, a tannery that is constantly committed to perfecting its products. And finally, thanks to the new ZEUS Collection, we will also have a presence within the footwear sector; a sector until now voluntarily neglected, indicating our determination to innovate with cautious caution. Major investment which - we are certain - will be favourably received on the market. Edward Hopper Edward Hopper was born in Nyach, a small town on the Hudson River in New York State, on 22 July 1882. The biography of this poet of colour ends here. Sorry: the artist died on 15 May 1967, in the studio of his New York house. Between coming from Nowhere and returning to Nowhere, his life story is told by his paintings. Many, so many, all of them able to bring us closer to the poetry of this extraordinary artist. To understand Hopper you don’t need to have read Tacitus, studied Heidegger, analyzed Duchamp, learned about Bacon’s alcoholic misadventures. You just need to go to a museum of modern art and look at his work. In silence, if possible. Or view our FW 17+18 Collection! The Confessions All hearts are equally valuable: No. A banker, advanced in years, suddenly feels unwell. Panic. We’re talking here about a banker, one of the ten most important and powerful bankers in the world, an immanent man whom nobody knows, except the other bankers. An immediate consultation is arranged, and the famous cardiologist, a friend of the family, having examined him carefully, gives his verdict: “An immediate heart transplant is needed”, he says, “there’s no time to lose, and in real time, we have several options available: the heart of a 6-year-old child”. No! “Of an 18-year-old man”. . No! “Of a 36-year-old manager”. No! “The heart of a 50-yearold judge”. No! “The heart of a 70-year-old banker”. Yes! At last, this is my heart! Aesthetic gravity In the world of fashion - our world - earrings take on a ceaseless importance. They must be worn, they are a crucial accessory, a strong symbol of identity; they attract and consume the gaze of others, they impose a moment of observation in spite of everything. And the choice of earring is somewhat tricky! Once we’ve chosen, judgement will be silent and merciless. No-one will ever say aloud, or even whisper: “Your earrings are ghastly”. However, anyone might think it, and that anyone will look askance at us, thinking: “But what’s she got on, can’t she see they’re horrendous”. Well, not always, take a look at the young lady in the photo, who has managed to achieve a perfect match. She’s reading a text message from us: “Your earrings are fabulous”. AZU: The evocative citrus fragrances of Azzurra Gannoni During the Linea Pelle Milano Fall Winter 17+18 fair, we will once again have the pleasure of presenting AZU Eau de Parfum TUSCANIA. The fragrance will scent our stand with enchanting spicy notes, influencing the critical, cold and cynical eyes of our visitors. Consider it as a divertissement, a distraction, a moment of intermission between dance and song during a theatre performance, as used in 17th and 18th century France. In our case it’s a holistic suggestion to widen the borders of creativity. Head notes, heart notes, base notes, how could we do without them! Once they were found in salons, exclusive to the snobbish few, as they sat on their comfortable leather armchairs discussing the weather; today they’re an everyday nourishment for the soul, wrapped in a fragrant fragrance. Welcome back, AZU! Possible love Photography is linked to the verb to photograph, to capture light, and to photograph is a piece of cake. It’s essential to own a digital camera. Once upon a time it was an intricate and complex matter. It was complicated by the roll of film: load it into the camera, take the shots, take the film out and take it to be developed; wait a few days to see your masterpieces, and pay for them. It’s unthinkable today. One, a thousand, a hundred thousand photos can be taken one after another, and one after another they can be examined, critiqued, evaluated, deleted, sent anywhere in the world at no extra cost, in no time at all, immediately after the Click which so concerned Roland Barthes in his Camera Lucida. Article Metal India BRIGHT ROOM Francesco Giannoni manager director Azzurra Giannoni sales manager, qualitity control Sanny Giannoni sales manager Infopoint +39 0571 20448 Anna Solimano sales assistant Gabriele Di Stefano sales assistant Simone Valtriani production manager Alessandra Rofi logistic Marco Angiolini accounting departmen Tuscania Industria Conciaria spa via delle Confina 18 50054 Fucecchio FI I close my eyes and I see her. She’s walking towards me slowly, her face serious, her gaze intense. She’s wondering who I am. No longer young, I admit, but still attractive, let’s say, with that old-school charm that the many years lived through bring in the form of permanent gravity. Now she’s just a few steps away. I smile at her. She doesn’t return my smile. She’s very close now, How are you, I ask, Fine, she replies, I’m fine now. I can’t believe it. I introduce myself: My name’s Fredi. Lucia, I’m Lucia. A beautiful name, I say, unable to add anything more. She - Lucia - takes my arm and together we walk towards our life. I open my eyes and I see her! Soir bleu Edward Hopper We Leather You Edward Hopper La ribellione della forma Gli amabili e fedeli lettori del nostro T Post, giunto alla sua IX Edizione, avranno notato il permanere costante della titolazione. In verità, da quando è stato creato il claim “We leather You”, ci siamo resi conto di quanto ci appartenesse, di quanto facesse parte integrante del nostro Essere una Industria Conciaria brillante, estroversa, simpatica, affidabile. Nella lingua italiana, traducendo in sequenza rapida: Noi pelle Tu. Due pronomi personali, un sostantivo singolare, i quali, da soli, sono in grado di creare un racconto, narrare una storia, indicare una strada, consentire una interpretazione, sorprendere, evidenziare che “Tu” e “Noi”, attraverso la “Pelle”, possiamo costruire i nostri fiorenti destini commerciali. Facile a dirsi, a meno che non si abbia la pazienza curiosa di visitare la nostra installazione promozionale, lo stand, con lo sguardo critico del viandante, attento al dettaglio, ansioso di vivere la sorpresa di una proposta Leather innovativa, concreta, iconica. In definitiva ci sentiamo in grado di ribadire il concetto: We leather You. E se, tra poco più di un mese, troverete il modo di visitare la nuova struttura operativa Tuscania spa, arriverete alla conclusione che, in effetti, il presente editoriale evidenzia delle straordinarie corrispondenze, con il nostro We leather You! Caro Face Book, dimmi tu chi sono Durante la sua prima campagna presidenziale, nel 1990, Ronald Regan aveva l’abitudine di raccontare un aneddoto relativo alla II Guerra Mondiale: il candidato repubblicano ricordava di aver appuntato una medaglia ad un eroico pilota il quale, dopo che il proprio bombardiere era stato colpito dai nazisti, aveva ordinato all’equipaggio di paracadutarsi ed era poi rimasto al fianco di un soldato ferito mentre l’area precipitava. Era un racconto commovente, lo stesso Regan non riusciva a trattenere le lacrime nel riportare le ultime parole del pilota: “Non ti preoccupare, figliolo, lo portiamo a terra insieme”. C’era un solo problema: non si trattava di un ricordo, ma della scena di un film del 1944 La nave senza nome. Il 40% delle persone tra i 35 ed i 44 anni consegna al proprio smartphone la maggior parte delle informazioni, dice uno studio del Kaspersky Lab. In un passaggio del Fedro di Platone, il dio Theuth porta in dono al Re Thamus l’alfabeto, presentando la scrittura come il farmaco che renderà gli egiziani più sapienti e abili a ricordare; invece di rallegrasi, però, Thalmus si incupisce, sostenendo che se si affideranno alla parola scritta gli egiziani disimpareranno a fidarsi della propria memoria. Il testo risale al IV secolo a.C. ma Platone non ha mancato di molto il bersaglio. In quest’ottica, qualunque sistema ci aiuti a esternare un ricordo rischia anche di compromettere le nostre abilità mnemoniche. Così come Regan era arrivato a scambiare la scena di un film per un ricordo autentico, così come alcuni bugiardi patologici finiscono per credere alle proprie stesse bugie, chi passa ore ogni giorno ad imbellettare la propria immagine social potrebbe arrivare, come ci rammenta il Sole 24 ore, a illudersi di essere l’aver ego simpatico, arguto e altruista che ogni giorno gli sorride dall’altra parte dello schermo, almeno finché non mette i piedi fuori di casa! WORKS LAB Ci piace il nostro slogan identificativo, non riusciamo, e forse non vogliamo, sostituirlo; non si tratta di affezione, al contrario, la ricerca costante di nuove soluzioni ci appartiene, caratterizza il nostro interpretare l’andamento evolutivo di un’azienda, tuttavia, in questo caso, preferiamo ancora una volta riproporlo. In questo tempo, ad esempio, presenteremo la nuova produzione di articoli denominata ZEUS: base di partenza le Capre Mongole. Leggere, resistenti, straordinarie, perfette per essere impiegate in campo calzaturiero. Innovazione, Ricerca & Sviluppo, Eco sostenibilità. Asset imprescindibili per noi Tuscania SPA, punto di riferimento per l’industria degli accessori in pelle, conceria costantemente impegnata nel perfezionare le proprie produzioni. E finalmente, grazie alla nuova Collezione ZEUS, agiremo anche all’interno del settore calzaturiero, fino ad ora volontariamente trascurato, a dimostrazione della nostra volontà di innovare con oculata oculatezza. Investimenti importanti, i quali, ne siamo certi, incontreranno i favori critici del mercato. We leather you, together Sperimentazione permanente ZEUS Il colore del Mito Per qualche minuto minuto fate mente locale, e se lo ritenete opportuno, prendete carta e matita, potrebbe facilitarvi il compito. Per farla breve: scrivete, o memorizzate, o pronunciate ad alta voce, le denominazioni di tutti i Marchi in circolazione sul Pianeta Terra che siano direttamente o indirettamente collegabili alla Mitologia Greca. L’elenco vi apparirà subito impegnativo. E se circoscrivete la ricerca al solo Sistema Moda, ebbene, anche in questo caso, l’elenco assumerà dimensioni considerevoli. Non è un caso: si cerca un brand name tra il Mito per avere buone opportunità di diventare Mito. Potevamo non seguire l’esempio? No. Non potevamo. E così, con la santa pazienza cistercense, supportati dalla immensità della Rete e dai testi consumati nel tempo del nostro Liceo Classico, abbiamo scavato nel Mito incontrando subito la Capra Amalthea. Incredibile! Fu proprio lei ad allattare Zeus. ZEUS! Interessante per un marchio! Breve, rapido, immediato, intenso, avvolto da mille storie, mille leggende, mille riferimenti artistici. Amalthea Zeus, a seguire i Titani e lo Scudo di Zeus: Egida. Poi ci sono i Satiri, generalmente raffigurati come esseri umani barbuti con orecchi, corna, coda e zampe caprine, ed i Fauni dalle forme umane, con i piedi e le corna di capra. Termini brevi, densi di significanti greco - latini riferibili alla Capra. Già, il nostro problema infatti era proprio quello di cercare una denominazione valida e coerente per una Collezione di articoli elaborati utilizzando Capre, Capre Mongole. Riassumiamo: Amalthea, Egida, Fauno, Satiro, Zeus. Immediata la scelta vincente: ZEUS. Edward Hopper nacque a Nyach, Stato di New York, piccola cittadina sul fiume Hudson, il 22 luglio del 1882. La biografia di questo poeta del colore termina qui. Scusate: l’artista scomparve il 15 maggio del 1967, nello studio della sua casa newyorkese. Tra l’uscita dal Nulla ed il rientro nel Nulla a raccontare la sua vita ci sono le sue opere. Tante, tantissime, capaci, tutte, di avvicinarci alla poetica di questo artista straordinario. Per comprendere Hopper non occorre aver letto Tacito, studiato Heidegger, approfondito Duchamp, conoscere le trasgressioni alcoliche di Bacon. Basta entrare in un Museo d’Arte Moderna e guardare le sue opere. Possibilmente in silenzio. Oppure visionare la nostra Collezione FW 17+18! Zeus - Amalthea - Egida Il fascino discreto della mitologia greca! Dunque: Amalthea fu la Capra che allattò Zeus sul monte Ida a Creta. Diventato il Re degli Dei, Zeus, per ringraziarla, diede un potere alle sue corna: il possessore poteva ottenere tutto ciò che desiderava. Da qui la leggenda del “corno dell’abbondanza”, o Cornucopia, detto anche Corno di Amalthea. Alla sua morte Zeus la pose, insieme ai suoi due amabili capretti, tra gli astri del cielo, inoltre, consigliato da Temi, prese la sua pelle e se ne vestì come di una corazza, durante la lotta contro il padre e questo rivestimento è conosciuto come Egida. Leggenda tra le leggende! Sì. AZU: Le fragranze agrumate e pittoriche di Azzurra Gannoni Nel corso della kermesse Linea Pelle Milano Fall Winter 17+18 avremo ancora il piacere di presentare AZU Eau de Parfum TUSCANIA. La sua fragranza profumiera inonderà la nostra installazione con gradevoli effluvi speziali, influenzando lo sguardo critico, freddo e cinico, dei nostri visitatori. Consideratelo un divertissement, un divertimento, un tempo definito come intermezzo di canti e danze inserito nel corso di opere teatrali, in uso in Francia nei secoli XVII e XVIII. Nel nostro caso una proposta olistica per allargare i confini della creatività. Note di Testa, Note di Cuore, Note di Fondo, come farne a meno! Un tempo argomenti salottieri, solo per pochi snob, seduti su comode poltrone di cuoio a discutere del tempo, oggi nutrimento quotidiano del nostro Essere avvolti da una fragrante fragranza. Bentornata AZU! Amore possibile Chiudo gli occhi e la vedo. Cammina verso di me con passo lento, il volto serio, lo sguardo intenso. Si sta chiedendo chi io sia. Non più giovane, d’accordo, però, diciamolo, ancora affascinante, quel fascino antico che gli anni, i tanti anni vissuti, di mette addosso per gravità permanente. Ormai è a pochi passi. Le sorrido. Il sorriso non viene ricambiato. Ora è vicina, le chiedo Come sta, risponde Bene, ora Bene. Non ci posso credere. Mi presento, mi chiamo Fredi. Lucia, il mio nome è Lucia. Un nome bellissimo, aggiungo, incapace di aggiungere altro. Lei, Lucia, mi prende sotto braccio ed insieme proseguiamo verso la nostra vita. Apro gli occhi e la vedo!