Products of excellence

Transcript

ECCELLENZA
ARTIGIANA
IN LIGURIA
pasticceria
Products
of excellence
Ligurian pastry
imperia • savona • genova • la spezia
sangiorgioeditrice
With the support of
REGIONE LIGURIA
Promoter
Thanks to the contribution of
With the participation of
In collaboration with
Photographic archive San Giorgio Editrice:
pp. 14, 18, 20, 22, 23, 25, 28, 30, 35, 36, 44, 48, 50, 55 (Alex Farioli); 16, 24, 34, 54
Fotolia.it: pp. 9, 56, 58
sxc.hu: pp.10-12, 17, 23, 52
Comune di Torriglia: p. 13
Editor in chief
Franco De Paulis, Alba Masconi
Editorial direction and graphic design
San Giorgio Editrice
© 2009, San Giorgio Editrice, Genova
www.sangiorgioeditrice.it
www.libreriadigitale.it
CNA ALIMENTARE is the most influential Association of Representation for Artisan Businesses and
for Small and Medium Enterprises of the Italian Food Sector. CNA ALIMENTARE is present
throughout the country in the CNA Network with 963 District Offices, 105 Provincial Offices, 19
Regional Offices, a National Headquarters in Rome, and a European Headquarters in Brussels.
Artisan Businesses and Small and Medium Enterprises adhering to CNA ALIMENTARE operate in an
array of trades that range from baking to fresh and dry pasta-making, from deli foods to cheeses,
from extensive methods of meat and fish preparations to vegetable preservations, to spirits and
liqueurs, all the way to pastry-making and the confectionery sector, not to mention ice-cream
parlours and more besides.
CNA ALIMENTARE’s identity winds through several fundamental pillars that are, at the same time,
the cornerstones of belonging for members and the shared objectives of the Association’s entire
action strategy:
• defending the extraordinary traditions of Italian food and agriculture, by which we mean that
genuine national cultural heritage that should be made known and protected;
• promoting the production system of the sector’s small enterprises, so significant and vital in our
country;
• passing alimentary “taste education” on to new generations, that right and responsibility of an
advanced society;
• and revendicating the “artisan” concept of the quality, goodness, and reliability of food products.
The association insists on the use of quality raw materials and a quality production process, as well
as on the genuineness of ingredients, on freshness, originality, wholesomeness, naturalness,
tradition, history, flavour, and goodness.
And it is in this spirit and with these motivations that CNA supports the partnered businesses in the
new century’s competition, with actions stimulating the increase in quality demanded by
adjustments to the norms of product and process certification, without, however, abandoning those
singularities of production, culture, and taste.
In this publication, CNA Alimentare proudly presents Ligurian entrepreneurs of the confectionery
sector to reward merits related to autonomy, courageous undertakings, enhanced performance, the
development of regional entities, and the affirmation of free enterprise, combined with a sincere
sensitivity to social responsibility and a fundamental objective: quality assurance for the end consumer.
Alimentare
IRIDE MERCATO is delighted to provide its individual support in its capacity as a sponsor of this
appealing initiative of CNA Liguria aimed at promoting artisan businesses which maintain trades of
ancient tradition in our country.
Our company, that today stands among the largest at the national level, has profound roots in the
Ligurian territory, deriving from the long history of AMGA, the founder company established in 1936 as
the municipalized Gas and Water of the City of Genoa.
Today IRIDE MERCATO supplies gas and electricity to clients throughout the country; yet, despite
this, it remains an organisation that focuses greatly on direct relationships with its clients through a
capillary network of booths that allow clients to talk directly with the company, regarding any
necessity or concern.
For artisan operators in particular, IRIDE MERCATO has activated a network of specialised consultants
capable of helping entrepreneurs identify the solutions most fitted to their type of gas and electricity
consumption.
It is therefore my hope that the partnership established with CNA Liguria contributes to further
developing opportunities for collaboration between our company and the artisan enterprises, with
positive results for both and, above all, for the economy and the business of our Region.
Walter Pallano,
Director General, IRIDE MERCATO S.p.A.
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Combining knowledge with know-how, innovation with excellence, quality with service–these are
the essential elements needed in any enterprise to win against the challenges of today’s market.
An initiative like CNA Liguria’s project “Artisan Enterprise of Excellence” has therefore found the
fullest support in Carige, a company that has forever been devoted to offering its clients excellent
products and high standards of quality.
Indeed, the enhancement of excellencies contributes to stimulating competition and to heightening
the levels of all operators in our region, to the benefit of the market and, therefore, of all its users.
Since its beginning, the Savings Bank has been committed to preserving that heritage of knowledge
and skill which contribute to building the richness of a territory.
Excellent entrepreneurs who commit themselves to their craft with dedication will, therefore, always
find a reliable and present partner in Carige.
Elvio Borra
MEDIUM/LONG TERM FINANCING Manager
Banca Carige Spa
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Ligurian Pastry: a heritage worth safeguarding
In the extremely colourful jungle of packaging, where protean boxes
will use the most captivating names, attractive wrappings,
and unusual, assorted shapes to seduce those who venture the
shelves, identifying products of quality, created according to
traditions strongly and tenaciously anchored to the past, has truly
become a challenge, so much so that the importance of buying
the best is now underestimated by the very consumer himself.
By products of quality, one intends “artisan” products.
This is the identity, distinguished by goodness and reliability, that must be
revendicated. In this niche of food and agriculture tradition resides, without question,
a true regional (and also national) cultural heritage, of which it is vital to recognise the values
in order to popularise, appreciate, safeguard, and reward them as they so deserve.
The development of large-scale retail trade threw regional craftsmanship strongly into crisis. Undoubtedly,
a scarce knowledge of local food traditions, evident above all among younger generations, together with the ever
shrinking and unbalanced replacement of older artisans with the young, have contributed to detracting attention
from this most valuable endeavour.
Genuineness, freshness, flavour, quality, creativity, the authenticity of ingredients, and the transparency of the
production process have always come hand-in-hand with the worth and excellence of gourmet pastry. But not only
that – pastry enjoys a history and a tradition that have been proudly claimed from time immemorial, representing
a strong point and a motivating force essential for continuing its story.
To confirm this preference, in recent decades there has been a proliferation – fortunately on the rise – of a ripe
tourism, particularly attentive of a territory’s exclusive attributes, far from the models imposed by mass tourism.
For this pursuit, our region represents a “complete” destination, where landscape, quality of life, art, culture,
and a truly exceptional gastronomic heritage blend with an expert, flawless balance.
Alimentary “taste education” is a path that takes one through an awareness of each product’s history and of the
local entrepreneurial entities that have distinguished Liguria with specific characteristics. It’s about a heritage that
doesn’t disintegrate when it crosses regional borders, but that enforces itself and enriches itself right as it enters
in contact with different cultures. Because it sifts through them and learns from them, adapting unfamiliar
techniques to its local endeavours to then export them once more with new, enhanced qualities – those born from
the intermingling of many experiences that meet.
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A Brief History of Ligurian Pastry
Historically, the concept of “dessert” was mainly linked to mature fruit, which
with time man also learned how to preserve. In the classical tradition, the
confectionery practise was used exclusively for decorating the earliest basic
desserts consumed on the occasion of large religious feasts. They were often
modelled in the shape of animals and embodied the concept of a votive
offering. Their simple ingredients−eggs, honey, flour, milk, and wine−could
be enriched with dried fruit, dates, figs, or cheese, according to the geographic area. At the threshold of the first
millennium, it is the Arabian culture to introduce spices, essences, and scents, but only in the late Middle Ages do more
elaborate creations begin to proliferate, tied to productions from monasteries, where bread was made and beekeeping
was practised. However, that which today we call pastry was far from being well-known. Dessert’s evolution experienced
a decisive impulse at the end of the 13th century when honey, that had appeared throughout time in first place among the
fundamental ingredients in desserts, was ousted by the advent of sugar, even though its cost, prohibitive for those
times, did impede its spread. Genoa was ahead of the times in customs and traditions that elsewhere took form with
a certain delay. There are two main reasons for this: on the one hand, Genoa’s environmental boundaries, which closed
the region between the sea and the mountains, requiring that raw materials be found from somewhere else; on the other
hand, its possibility of doing so via the sea, thanks to a port that for the city is a propeller of life, innovation, and
exchanges at every level. Through the port, the Genoese themselves breathed in, assimilated, reworked, and newly
exported characteristics, customs, and traditions from cultures both similar to their own and extremely different.
To add some spatiotemporal details that bear out our discourse, it’s opportune to emphasise that the ancient trade of the
capital city has always been indissolubly tied to the Orient. An interesting project of archaeological research on Genoese
expansion into the Mediterranean brought to light evidence of a consistent Genoese settlement in Acre (Akko, Israel),
the busy coastal centre of then Palestine. In 1104, upon conquering this important port and stopping point for pilgrims
to the Holy Land, accomplished thanks to the support of the Genoese fleet, Genoa gained ownership of one third of the
city and of the relative countryside from Baldwin I, King of Jerusalem. For the maritime Republic, this represented the
start of a concrete presence, with essentially commercial aims, in the Holy Land. Excavations have turned up three
milestones bearing the inscription “IANUA”, with which it has been possible to reconstruct the boundaries of the rural
area controlled by the Genoese. Remains have also been found of a monumental “covered” road – a true mercantile
artery that wound between houses and shops in an urban arrangement very similar to Genoa’s Sottoripa arcade.
As another example, traces of buildings that seem to have been used as a refuge for pilgrims greatly recall Genoa’s
similarly used Commenda di Prè building complex. But beyond topographical comparisons that certainly document a
very complex panorama of exchanges and influences, the Genoese brought sugar home from the Orient, together with a
series of recipes that Arabs knew well, thus providing the incipit for a great pastry tradition.
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When desserts tell a story…
To Ligurian pastry, but especially to Genoese, belong products whose origins
are distant and extremely old but still clear enough to be traced. Among
these are canditi, or candied fruits. Candying is a preservation method
– usually of fruit – by way of immersion in a sort of sugar syrup.
It originated in Mesopotamia and spread into the Orient thanks to the Arabs,
with whom the Genoese, as it is said, engaged in fervent trade. The word “candy”, in fact,
derives from the Arab “qandat” (“kandakah” in Sanskrit) meaning “sugar”. Crusaders exported
its manufacture into Europe, and precisely in “the Superb One” (a.k.a. Genoa) did its production reached extreme
heights. Recently, a PDO (Protected Designation of Origin) has even been proposed for canditi, which wouldn’t be
an inappropriate response to those wishing to distinguish products made with nothing but fresh mature fruit and
sugar, from others full of colourings and preservatives.
The development and the “contraction” of Ligurian pastry, in terms of productivity, are inseparably tied to the
events of Genoa and its port, from the successes of the 1800s, with exportation throughout the world, to the
progressive and unstoppable closing of artisan workshops in the following century, under the persistent pressure
of industry. Nevertheless, there are artisan entities that remain faithful to their own principles: they refuse to
convert to industry and orient themselves more toward searching out those who appreciate and award talent in
and dedication to a craft rich in merits and tradition. One breathes the air of past times when entering classic
confectioneries in the centre of town, where refined interiors, rich in marble and valued woods, betray an openly
Parisian inspiration.
The confectioners were the ones who worked fruit, flowers, herbs, and spices with sugar, and who, to consolidate
their own financial power, joined together in corporation in the 15th century under the name of “nebulari ” or
“negiari”. In the 1800s, they enriched and diversified their production becoming chocolatiers. In this craft, Genoa
achieved excellence, once again thanks to its intermingling with a new and successful production
reality, that of the grand master confectioner-chocolatiers from beyond the alps.
To date, the production method of confectioners and chocolatiers remains
faithful to the recipe books of these classic professional figures
because their children follow their parents’ formulas, advancing their
intuitions and taking Genoese dessert production to a position of
absolute prominence. From no other place can you taste such
unique specialties as pine nut pralines, candied violet petals,
orange-flower-infused marron glacé, rose petal syrup, and other
confectionery refinements. It is precisely here, sitting in the
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Klainguti’s 18th century Baroque salons, surrounded by chandeliers, mirrors, stuccos, and frescoes, that one can
savour the atmosphere of the Belle Époque’s splendour. In 1826, the destiny of four brothers from a small village
near St. Moritz stopped here, and if once their salon was crowded with elegant ladies at teatime, today the
clientele, besides being lovers of gourmet pastry, include followers of the rite of the aperitivo. The salon’s outlook
has intelligently taken clients’ tastes into account with the passage of time, so as to now propose a range of
diversified services. In any event, certain delicacies will always remain, surpassing the trends of the moment and
accompanying the name of the Fratelli Klainguti in the collective imagination, like the Torta Zena (Genoa Cake) and
the Torta Engandina (Engadine Cake), or perhaps the fallstaffs (hazelnut-filled croissants) so raved about by
Giuseppe Verdi (renowned regular of the salon).
Did you know that at the end of noble banquets it was customary to serve sugared almonds by putting them into
ladies’ necklines by handfuls? That at the court of the Este cotognata e persiche alla Genovese (candied quince
and peaches from Genoa) were among the refinements most dear to the palates of distinguished princes?
These are some of the curiosities tied to the past’s distant ambiances that complete a fresco of vivid but delicate
tones, where a story made up of elegant settings and an élite attendance shines through. And it’s as if…the
sublime taste of these so very special creations succeeds by magic to recreate those ambiances; as if the mind
sees the arrival of majestic Genoese sailing ships transporting cocoa and spices onto the swarming quays of the
old port, then sailing off again to conquer rival markets.
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From the West to the East Riviera, an appetisingly window
That soft cake, that in the history books is known as Pan di Spagna (literally Spanish
bread, is a kind of Sponge cake), in reality is a purely Ligurian pastry invention. It was
Giovanni Cabona who took it to the court of Madrid and baptised it so, in honour of
the host country, when in 1750 the Ligurian ambassador Marquis Pallavicini
transferred Cabona there along with other renowned Genoese chefs.
The art of small pastry in Liguria, or rather, that of dry desserts, developed over the
centuries through the possibilities offered by natural flavourings that the land itself made
available. Aniseed and fennel seeds spread like wildfire through the biscuit shops of many
towns, from the West to the East Riviera. In Ponte d’Assio and Pieve di Teco, one finds for the most part those
typical rectangular biscuits that emanate a strong anise scent. Light but spongy, they are ideal for dunking in milk.
Then, enriched with fruit jams, are the charming moulds of the shortcrust cookies called amaretti di Sassello: soft,
delicate, crumbly, and unmistakable in their bittersweet flavour. They claim origins in the 1800s, and since then,
their exceptionally simple recipe has never altered: ground almonds, egg whites, and sugar.
Unique of its kind, the candied chinotto from Savona is a small, highly fragrant citrus fruit for which fortunately
steps have been taken to save by naming it a Slow Food Presidium. From Savona, in a brief time, the nomination
involved all of the Riviera of Palms and the immediate inlands between Varazze and Finale Ligure.
Typical of Apricale but produced in all of the far West Riviera (from Ventimiglia to Castel Vittorio, and Camporosso
to Pigna) are the cubàite: a taste that recalls the Orient with its rich filling of spices, and dried and candied fruit,
sandwiched between two wafers. They are wide-spread not only in the Arab world but also in areas influenced by
Arabs, like Sicily. Identifying its name is easy: qubbayta in Arabic, cubbaita in Sicilian, cubaita in Ligurian.
The “tongs” with which the filling is worked are equipped with two discs, in times past engraved with the initials of
the family that produced them so that the letters remained printed and easily visible on the faces of the two wafers.
The fabulous baci di Alassio have noble origins, created by Rinaldo Balzola, pastry chef of the Royal House of
Savoy, during the era of Gabriele D’Annunzio and Eleonora Duse. Oval-shaped, hazelnut-hued, and formed by two
hemispherical shells united by a chocolate cream, they are a happy derivation of baci di dama, distinguishing
themselves from these with their size and the different composition of their filling.
Yet, Alassio certainly isn’t the only Ligurian town to propose this speciality: Sanremo, Finale, Recco, Camogli, and
Chiavari present their own equally delicious versions, as well, each incorporating their own variations into the size
and filling.
In the Genoese hinterlands, a hole with an encircling flower is born. That’s the easiest way to describe the
canestrello di Torriglia, a true delight for the palate, made with a tasty, golden shortcrust pastry and completely
coated in icing sugar. The canestrello di Brugnato has different characteristics with respect to the one from the
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Genoese hinterlands: it involves a soft doughnut that, through the use of aniseed, acquires a delicate, pleasing
flavour. It makes a perfect accompaniment to red wine, in which it can also be dipped.
The Christmas table isn’t complete without Genoese panettone: round, low, squashed in form, and brown in
colour, it wins everyone over with the aroma of its elaborate dough, made with orange flower, candied fruit, pine
nuts, raisins, fennel seeds, and Marsala.
Hopping over to the East Riviera and, more precisely, to Sarzana, inland from La Spezia, the dessert par excellence
is the spungata. Its ancient name originates from the Latin word for “sponge”, most probably referring to the
appearance of its top sheet of pastry which is riddled with holes to allow the inside to cook to the proper degree.
Even Ovid speaks of it in a passage of Fasti (The Festivals); while describing the gifts customarily given in Rome at
the advent of the new year, he writes: “…et data sub niveo condita mello favo” (…and the glistening honey given
as a present in the snow-white jar). It seems to be an obvious reference to the method of preparing spungata,
which is made of honey and pitted like a beehive. The dough consists of a shortcrust base enriched with an apple
and pear jam, pieces of fresh and candied fruit, pine nuts, and almonds.
No less well-known and always from the Sarzanese tradition, the buccellato is a voluptuous dessert made of a
fluffy, leavened pastry flavoured with grated lemon and orange zests, and having the form of a round doughnut
with a centre hole.
Let’s shift ourselves to the high grounds around Genoa, between the hills of Oregina and Granarolo – it was here
that in the times of Andrea Doria, a workshop was born that, side by side with gallette (a type of crackers)
destined for sailors of the Genoese fleet, produced a rich, light biscuit. We are, of course, speaking of the Lagaccio
biscuit that takes its name from the dam that the Genoese fleet admiral had constructed in the area to collect
spring and rain waters, causing the formation of an artificial lake. You probably also know of them as biscotti della
salute, a name that originated in Ovada. In reality, a small
difference exists: the biscotto del Lagaccio includes a splash of an
anise-flavoured liqueur. Another variation appears in the form of
the dry biscotti di Lerici, which are excellent for breakfast and
more similar to long, narrow slices of bread with slightly
irregular edges.
Always produced in the province of Genoa is the
Sacripantina, a dessert of well-rooted tradition, born from
the imagination of the Preti family and the inspiration of
Orlando Furioso (The Frenzy of Orlando). Sacripante is in
fact one of the characters who finds his culinary cast in
this cake, with its robust build and its boastful
personality, as gluttony-inducing as it is substantial.
The so-called common desserts enjoy a widespread
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diffusion, for example: fried milk, simple, flavourful, and typical of Liguria; castagnaccio (chestnut flour cake), a
seasonal dessert found proudly on display in autumn throughout the fainotti, bakers of Liguria’s savoury and
sweet pies, next to their farinata and panissa (both chickpea flour preparations), and vegetable pies; and lastly, a
merry-go-round of frittelle, or sweet fritters. To name only a few, there are the apple fritters, protagonists of a
festival at Testico inland from Savona, the fritters of San Giuseppe, native to the Bormida Valley, the sweet fritters
of potato, celebrated at Rovegno the first Sunday of October, and the cream fritters characteristic of Chiavari.
This brief panorama of the art of Ligurian pastry concludes itself thinking back on what is perhaps one of the
Region’s most evocative historic recollections: the well-known festival of the Torta dei Fieschi (Fieschi Cake), that
takes place each year on the 14th of August at Lavagna, once the earldom of the influential Fieschi family.
The festival commemorates the sumptuous wedding of Opizzo Fieschi to the Siena noblewoman Bianca de’
Bianchi in 1230. The event’s “narration” opens with an historic costumed procession along the town’s streets,
followed by an exciting chivalric tournament. It is only at the end of this a gigantic wedding cake, weighing a good
thirteen quintals and prepared by Lavagna’s able pastry chefs, is sliced and distributed, just the same as the one
that the newlyweds wanted to give to their people as a symbol of the family’s generosity and undisputed economic
strength. The Torta dei Fieschi is no more than the umpteenth example of a local tradition treasuring the memory
of an aristocratic past in a dessert.
The past: when all is said and done, it is that which the entire Ligurian pastry tradition has the potential for
conveying and passing on. Because with a flavour that entices the palate, one always associates an exciting story,
made up of men, of ideas, of hard work and will-power, and of cultural encounters. Maybe the magic is right here,
in the act of satisfying… not only the body but the mind, as well.
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LEGEND
Workshop
Retail store
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Tearoom
IMPERIA
ANICINI (ANISEED BISCUITS)
INGREDIENTS
12 eggs
600 g sugar
600 g white flour
1 jigger orange flower water
several aniseeds
butter for greasing the griddle
P R E PA R AT I O N
Separate the yolks from the egg whites. Beat the 12 yolks together with the sugar, the orange
flower water, and several aniseeds.
Whip the egg whites into stiff peaks, and add them to the mixture along with all the flour.
Continue to stir, then pour the mixture into long, narrow paper boxes, so as to constrict the
dough. Before doing so, don’t forget to butter all inner surfaces. At this point, place them in
the oven at 140°C. After 20 minutes, remove them from the oven and cut the dessert into
relatively small slices, laying them out on a buttered griddle. Place the biscuits once again into
the oven at 200°C for another 20 minutes and, once baked, dust them with icing sugar.
Anicini are a typical Ligurian biscuit delicately flavoured, as their name reveals, with aniseed.
They prove excellent also on a nutritional and metabolic level as they are low in fat and aid
digestion, when consumed at the end of a meal.
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BISCOTTI GIBELLI SPECIALITÀ DOLCIARIE
via Colonnello Aprosio 100
18019 Vallecrosia
Tel. e fax 0184 292777
[email protected]
Since 1985
For three generations, the Gibelli company has produced Ligurian confectionery specialties following
the old family recipes, in obedience to tradition and genuineness.
Product categories:
dry pastries, biscuits, and baked goods
Our specialties include:
pine nut amaretti, pandolce (fruitcake), anicini (aniseed
biscuits), assorted and filled biscuits, almond pastries.
PASTICCERIA ANGELO DI MARERI FEDERICO
via Nazionale 8
18100 Imperia
Tel. e fax 0183 291814
Since 1976
Founded in 1976 by spouses Angelo and Elvira Mareri, the pastry shop continues to follow the family
tradition thanks to their son who, together with his wife, dedicates himself with passion
to the confectionery business.
Product categories:
fresh pastries, dry pastries, filled and unfilled cakes,
leavened pastries, biscuits and baked goods
fresh pastries and celebration cakes.
PASTICCERIA DANILO
via Ischia 22
18016 San Bartolomeo
Tel. e fax 0183 400667
Since 1969
Beginning as a small store, over the course of time the pastry shop has expanded, maintaining steadfast,
however, its same confectionery tradition. In Diano Marina’s retail location,
the art of artisan chocolate is handed down.
Product categories:
leavened pastries, biscuits and baked goods, savoury
pastries
artisan chocolate, personalised ceremonial pastries, baci
(sandwich cookies), and ice-cream.
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AMARETTI PINOLATI (PINE NUT AMARETTI)
INGREDIENTS
350 g almonds
350 g pine nuts
4 egg whites
300 g sugar
the zest from 1 lemon
P R E PA R AT I O N
Immerse the almonds in boiling water to clean them easily, then finely chop them.
Whip the egg whites into very stiff peaks, and fold in the almonds, sugar, pine nuts,
and lemon zest. Stir carefully until the dough is evenly blended. Form small balls,
flattening them slightly, and place them on a buttered griddle.
Put them in the oven at 150°C, and remove them once they have acquired golden hue.
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PASTICCERIA PRIMAVERA DI RAMBALDI GIANNI
via Palazzo 51
18038 Sanremo
Tel. 0184 507487
[email protected]
Since 1950
Founded in the 50s by the Rambaldi twins Luigi and Giovanni, it is San Remo’s oldest pastry shop.
Situated in a splendid historic building from the 1600s, the family-run business continues
to hand down the confectionery art originally learned from a Swiss pastry chef.
Product categories:
leavened pastries, biscuits and baked goods,
and savoury pastries
baci di Sanremo (sandwich cookies), panettone
genovese (Genoese panettone cake), and fiorentine
(Swiss biscuits made with chocolate, raisins, and almonds).
PREMIATA PASTICCERIA GENOVESE UNIPERSONALE Srl
Piazza Dante 1
18100 Imperia
Tel. 0183 293696
[email protected]
Since 1905
Founded by Giacomo Piccardo in far-off 1905, it embodies the excellence of Ligurian pastry,
producing typical confections according to the classic tradition.
Product categories:
pastries, candied fruit
RACCA PASTICCERIA
Specialità torinesi e marrons-glacés tutto l’anno
via Aurelia 58
18016 San Bartolomeo al Mare (IM)
Tel. 0183 400863
Since 1970
Founded by Mr. Renato, whose talent comes from experience matured in the Piedmont's capital city,
the shop has written an important page in the history and innovation of Ligurian pastry.
Product categories:
chocolates, leavened pastries, biscuits and baked goods,
savoury pastries, candied fruit
naturally leavened desserts, fresh and dry pastries,
bite-sized chocolates, candied fruit.
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SACHER (SACHERTORTE)
INGREDIENTS
175 g dark chocolate
6 eggs, separated
160 g butter
160 g flour, sifted
8 tablespoons sugar
1 package of vanilla icing sugar
(or 125 g)
apricot jam, as needed
For the icing
300 g icing sugar
3 tablespoons water
P R E PA R AT I O N
Allow the butter to soften, then whip it with 4 tablespoons of sugar, the chocolate (previously
melted over a double boiler), and the yolks. Whip the egg whites into stiff peaks with the
remaining sugar. Gently fold together the two mixtures, adding the sifted flour and the vanilla
icing sugar. Pour the dough into a buttered mould roughly 25 cm in diameter, and bake it at
160°C for an hour. After letting the cake cool, slice it into two layers and fill it with the apricot
jam, spreading over the sides and top as well. To make the icing for coating the cake (in a
relatively thick layer), slowly heat the chocolate over a double boiler, and cook the sugar and
water into a syrup. After mixing the two, you can finally decorate your cake.
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PASTICCERIA SETTI Snc
via Lungo Argentina
18018 Taggia
Tel. 0184 42024 – fax 0184 42024
[email protected]
Since 2000
The enterprise was born of a young pastry chef’s ambition in 2000, and in 2003, enriched itself
with the addition of the coffee house, a meeting-place for tourists and families.
Product categories:
pastries
artisan chocolate, themed or personalised wedding
and celebration cakes, a vast array of semifreddo.
SEMIFREDDO AGLI AMARETTI (AMARETTO SEMIFREDDO)
INGREDIENTS
3 eggs, separated
150 g amaretti biscuits
2 tablespoons amaretto liqueur
3 tablespoons icing sugar
200 ml whipping cream
P R E PA R AT I O N
In a mixing bowl, whip the egg yolks with the icing sugar
until they reach a frothy consistency. Add the amaretti
biscuits after having crushed them into very fine crumbs.
At this point, whip the egg whites into very stiff peaks,
and add them, little by little, to the mixture.
Whip the cream as well, and fold it into the rest. After
having poured the mixture into a loaf pan, leave it
to harden in the refrigerator for about 2 hours, then serve
the semifreddo, if desired, with chocolate sauce.
23
LEGEND
Workshop
Retail store
24
Tearoom
S AVO NA
AUGUSTO VINCENZO BESIO
Via Sant’Ambrogio 2ar
17100 Savona
Tel. 019 860507 - Fax 019 860007
www.besio.it - [email protected]
Calì il pasticcere
26
AMARETTI ASTENGO
via Montenotte 16/r
17100 Savona
Tel. e fax 019 820570
Since 1878
Established in 1878 by Giacomo Astengo, the pastry shop carries forward the traditional recipes
of the family, now in their fifth generation of pastry chefs with the current owner Giorgio Astengo.
Product categories:
amaretti, leavened fruitcakes, biscuits, fresh and dry
pastries.
AUGUSTO VINCENZO BESIO Snc
via Sant’Ambrogio 2ar
17100 Savona
Tel. 019 860507 – Fax 019 860007
www.besio.it – [email protected]
Since 1860
The company has been making candied fruit since 1860, and over the years, has been able to safeguard
the production of chinottos in maraschino liqueur, a historic product of Savonese tradition
and now also a Slow Food Presidium.
Product categories:
candied fruit
chinotto of Savona (both the fruit and manufacturing are
entirely Ligurian).
CALÌ IL PASTICCERE DI MONACO ANNA
via Patrone 3r
17052 Borghetto Santo Spirito
Tel. 0182 940400
[email protected]
Since 1991
The current owners have a long tradition of Torinese confectionery behind them, for which the pastry
shop is able to boast production of the highest quality.
Product categories:
pastries
“borghettino” (sandwich cookie coated in chocolate and
sprinkled with whole hazelnuts), artisan chocolate, a vast
assortment of pastries.
27
CANESTRELLI
INGREDIENTS
300 g flour
250 g butter, cut into small
pieces
100 g sugar
1 egg, separated
P R E PA R AT I O N
Make a well with the flour, and fill it with the butter, sugar, and egg yolk (setting aside the white).
Quickly knead the ingredients. Roll the dough out to about a 1 cm thickness, then cut out the
biscuits with a scallop edge or flower-shaped cookie cutter. Brush them with the egg white, and
arrange them on a baking sheet lined with parchment paper. Bake them in the oven at 180°C
until golden. Once baked, coat them in icing sugar.
28
CASA DEL DOLCE
via Cavour 40
17051 Andora
Tel. 0182 88369
[email protected]
Since 1975
The company has won various awards on an international level, thanks to the quality of its products,
and is also specialised in the artisan production of chocolate and local delicacies.
Product categories:
pane del pescatore (sailor’s fruitcake), baci di Andora
(sandwich cookies), pralines and chocolates, fresh and
dry pastries.
LABORATORIO PASTICCERIA BESIO
DI TORELLO PAOLA E RICCARDO Snc
Since 1902
via Sormano 16r – 17100 Savona
Tel. e fax 019 820605
www.amarettibesio.com – [email protected]
For over a century, the Besio Torello family-run business has packaged its own desserts, in respect
of tradition and always using quality raw materials without the addition of preservatives or additives.
Product categories:
pastries
amaretti, capricci al rhum (rum biscuits), pandolci
(fruitcakes), fresh and shortcrust pastries, cakes,
savouries, coffee shop pastries, Lagaccio biscuits,
savoiardi, anicini (aniseed biscuits).
PASTICCERIA BAXIN
Piazza IV Novembre 1
17031 Albenga
Tel. 018 252923
www.baxin.it - [email protected]
Since 1933
Established in Albenga in 1933, the company continues to produce Baxin (aniseed biscuits),
a traditional specialty of the Riviera, with care and dedication.
Product categories:
dry pastries
baxin (aniseed biscuits), pandolce Genovese (Genoese
fruitcake), baci di Alassio (chocolate sandwich cookies),
baci di dama (sandwich cookies), amaretti.
29
BACI DI ALASSIO (ALASSIO “KISSES”)
INGREDIENTS
700 g hazelnuts
600 g sugar
3 egg whites
100 g unsweetened cocoa
powder
100 g honey
150 g double cream
P R E PA R AT I O N
Finely grind the hazelnuts, and add the sugar. In turn, blend the two ingredients with the honey,
the cocoa powder, and the egg whites, then let it rest for several hours. Using a pastry bag with
a star-shaped nozzle, squeeze the biscuits onto a baking sheet lined with parchment paper.
Let them dry for at least 12 hours, then bake them in the oven at 220-230°C for 6-7 minutes.
In the meantime, melt the dark chocolate over a double boiler, adding the cream which you
have previously brought to a boil. Blend the chocolate and cream well with a whisk.
Spreading a modest amount of cream between two kisses, join them together: the cream acts
both as a filling and a glue. Remember that they should be kept in a tin, in a cool, dry place.
30
PASTICCERIA GIORDANO ERNESTO Snc
via Mameli 18-20
17019 Varazze
Tel. e fax 019 934642
Since 1929
Founded by Giordano Ernesto with his wife Mirella in 1929, today the pastry shop continues the old family
tradition, carried forward by their sons Franc’Antonio and Ferdinando, and grandson Francesco.
Product categories:
pastries
traditional local desserts, or at any rate, those
characteristic of Ligurian pastry.
PASTICCERIA CONFETTERIA
di GRAMEGNA GIUSEPPE & C Snc
Since 1985
Sede: via Venezia 3; Punto Cioccolato: via Siccardi 2 – 17028 Spotorno
Tel. 019 7415059/741439 – Fax 019 7415059
[email protected] – www.dolcedolci.it
Situated in Spotorno’s historic centre, the pastry shop offers its clients quality local products.
Continuing the family tradition, Leonardo, the son of the founder, has created a shop
in which artisan chocolate, in particular, is produced.
Product categories:
chocolates, biscuits and baked goods, savoury pastries,
candied fruit
amaretti, baci di Spotorno (sandwich cookies), pandolce
(fruitcake), pane del pescatore (fruitcake), almond pastries, canestrelli (shortcrust biscuits), chocolate, pinolate
(pine nut biscuits), anici (aniseed biscuits), candied fruit
dipped in chocolate, cakes of all types, chocolate truffles.
PASTICCERIA LA RIVIERA DI IAFFALDANO RAFFAELLA
via Brennero 5
17021 Alassio
Tel. 0182 640673
www.bacidellariviera.it – [email protected]
Since 1979
Established 30 years ago, the pastry shop carries forward local recipes that fill their splendid shop window
overlooking the sea with aromas every day, offering its clients new products as well,
always in respect of tradition.
Product categories:
pastries
“Il Bacione” (large version of the Rivera’s sandwich
cookie), baci di Alassio (chocolate sandwich cookies),
baci di dama (sandwich cookies), bread of the Riviera,
18 types of croissants, damone.
31
PUNTO DOLCE SNC
Via Pero 22
17019 Varazze
tel. 019 9189021 - fax 019 9189021
[email protected]
32
PASTICCERIA MARTINI
via Brunenghi 188
17024 Finale Ligure
Tel. 019 691947
Since 1900
Founded at the beginning of the 1900s by pastry chef Nicolò Gento who managed the shop for 60 years,
its tradition was first carried forward by Michele Brichetto and then by Pierluigi Martini,
the current owner who dedicates himself with care to the pastry products.
Product categories:
pastries
“chocolate medallions”, chifferi (crescent-shaped biscuits), pandolce (fruitcake), gobeletti (jam-filled tartlets)
still made with the old tartlet moulds, amaretti, meringues,
colombe (dove-shaped Easter cakes), chocolate Easter
eggs, and panettone (sweet bread with dried fruit).
PASTICCERIA OLIVA Snc
via Leonardo da Vinci 90
17021 Alassio
Tel. 0182 643374
Since 1966
Established in 1966, the shop has always distinguished itself by the precision of its artisan products,
prepared with the best raw materials, in respect of local culinary traditions.
Product categories:
pastries
baci di Alassio (chocolate sandwich cookies),
Oliva’s soft amaretti, pandolce di Alassio (fruitcake).
PUNTO DOLCE Snc DI DAMONTE F. E FERRO E.
via Pero 22
17019 Varazze
Tel. 019 9189021 – Fax 019 9189021
[email protected]
Since 2000
Launched in 2000, the shop boasts the management of three young owners who with their passion
and willpower wish to introduce their clients to tasty traditional artisan desserts.
Product categories:
pastries
baci di Varazze (sandwich cookies), pandolce
(Genoese fruitcake), colomba alla pasta di mandorla
(dove-shaped almond Easter cake), canestrelli (shortcrust
biscuits), gobeletti (jam-filled tartlets).
33
LEGEND
Workshop
Retail store
34
Tearoom
G E N O VA
ATTILIO CAVO SRL
Via di Fossatello 35r e 37r
16124 Genova
Tel. 010 2091226
www.cavo.it – [email protected]
36
ANTICO BISCOTTIFICIO DELLA FOCE DI BONALDO Srl
via Tortona 47r
16139 Genova
Tel. 010 587261– Fax 010 5304005
www.bonaldobrands.it – [email protected]
Since 1948
Founded in the post-war period by the Solis Family from Fiume and carried forward by the Bonanni brothers
since 2004, the biscuit shop continues to respect tradition. Another retail location of the products
is the Liquoreria Bonanni, in via San Vincenzo.
Product categories:
dry pastries, leavened pastries, biscuits and baked goods
tall and low Genoese pandolci (fruitcakes), Lagaccio biscuits, canestrelli (shortcrust biscuits), anicini (aniseed biscuits), baci di dama (sandwich cookies), meringues,
gobeletti (jam-filled tartlets), pinze fiumane (Easter cake
from Fiume).
ATTILIO CAVO Srl
via di Fossatello 35r e 37r
16124 Genova
Tel. 010 2091226
www.cavo.it – [email protected]
Since 1770
Founded at the end of the 1700s under the name of Liquoreria Marescotti, since 1880 the pastry shop has
passed down its traditional recipes thanks to the Cavo Family who, from the original historic location
in Voltaggio, opened the first stores in Genova in 1924.
Product categories:
leavened pastries, savoury pastries
amaretti di Voltaggio (registered trademark since 1931),
pandolce Genovese (Genoese fruitcake), pinolate (pine
nut biscuits), fresh and dry pastries.
BUDICIN Srl UNIPERSONALE
via Costa di Bana 23
16032 Camogli
Tel. 0185 770401 – Fax 0185 775857
[email protected]
Since 2000
The pastry shop is specialised in the production of high quality products, manufactured in respect
of tradition and of the genuineness of raw materials. It replenishes the most important distribution chains,
following the motto “the small pastry shop at the service of the big”.
Product categories:
pastries
fresh pastries, fruit tarts, pandolce Genovese (Genoese
fruitcake), pinolate (pine nut biscuits), baci (sandwich cookies), canestrelli (shortcrust biscuits), and almond pastries.
37
F.LLI GUASTAVINO SNC
Vico alle Cave 13
16016 Cogoleto
Tel. 0109183724 – Fax 0109183945
[email protected]
38
CREMACACAO Srl
Since 2004
Via delle Grazie 81-83
16128 Genova
Tel. 010 2541556
www.cremacacao.it – [email protected]
Cremacacao centres its business on the exclusive production and marketing of its products,
from sweet pastries to savouries and chocolates to ice-creams.
Product categories:
pastries
traditional pastries, artisan ice-cream, chocolates, pralines,
and a registered trademark for “pan di caruggi” (bread of
the old alleyways).
F.LLI CROCCO Snc
via Spinola 13r
16014 Campomorone
Tel. 010 780568 – Fax 010 4222091
[email protected]
Since 1960
For over forty years, the pastry shop has been at the service of its clients, searching to satisfy their tastes
with the production of traditional Ligurian specialties.
Product categories:
pandolci (fruitcakes), rusks (like the Genoese Lagaccio
biscuits made with natural leavening), dry pastries like anicini (aniseed biscuits), baci di dama (sandwich cookies),
chestnuts of Compumon (Ligurian for Campomorone),
funghetti (mushroom-shaped meringues), meringues.
F.LLI GUASTAVINO Snc
Vico alle Cave 13
16016 Cogoleto
Tel. 010 9183724 – Fax 010 9183945
[email protected]
Since 2006
The pastry shop is also a coffee bar and chocolate shop. Clients can take a seat outdoors just a few steps
from Christopher Columbus’s house, under the Saracen tower, in the heart of Genoa’s historic centre.
Product categories:
artisan chocolate production, both fresh and dry Torinese
tartlets, pandolce (Genoese fruitcake), chestnut fruitcake,
colomba (dove-shaped Easter cake), celebration cakes.
39
PASTICCERIA
BARSOTTI ALBERTO
Piazza Serra 3
16026 Montoggio
Tel. 348 5621585
[email protected]
40
KLAINGUTI Srl
Piazza Soziglia 98r
16123 Genova
Tel. e fax 010 8602628
Since 1828
Established in 1828 by the Klainguti brothers, the pastry shop, thanks to its respect for tradition and to the
genuineness of its products, has been a member of the “Historic Bars of Italy” for roughly thirty years.
Product categories:
pastries
torta Zena (Genoa cake), and torta Engadina (Engadine
cake).
LA BOTTEGA DEL GOLOSO Snc
via D.G. Verità 29r – piazza Odicini 2
16139 Genova
Tel. e fax 010 6130880
Since 2005
A strong company, accomplished and expanding, that receives abundant praise from its clients.
Testimony to this is the opening of a new retail location in Piazza Odicini, that establishes the separation
of the pastry shop from the ice-cream parlour.
Product categories:
dry pastries, fresh pastries, filled and unfilled cakes,
leavened pastries, savoury pastries
a quality ice-cream parlour with choice products, pandolci (fruitcakes), pinolate (pine nut biscuits), amaretti,
canestrelli (shortcrust biscuits), fresh cakes and pastries,
baci di dama (sandwich cookies) dipped in chocolate.
PASTICCERIA BARSOTTI ALBERTO
piazza Serra 3
16026 Montoggio
Tel. 348 5621585
[email protected]
Since 1900
The old bakery dates back to the beginning of the 1900s; renovated in 1944, it is still operational today.
Products are baked in a wood burning oven, following tradition.
Product categories:
biscuits and baked goods
traditional canestrelli (shortbread biscuits), canestrelli
made with chestnut flour, and Genoese pandolce (fruitcake) made with chestnut flour.
41
PASTICCERIA BUDICIN
Via Aurelia 186
16032 Camogli
Tel. 0185 770523
42
PASTICCERIA BARBERIS
via Ruspoli 67r
16129 Genova
Tel. e Fax 010 580932
Since 1949
For over 60 years, the Barberis pastry shop has produced artisan desserts, following traditional recipes
and always selecting top quality raw materials. Clients can also enjoy products in the new retail locations
in Castelletto and Quinto.
Product categories:
pastries
pandolce (Genoese fruitcake), Lagaccio biscuits, canestrelli (shortcrust biscuits), leavened pastries, Montebianco (marron glacé pudding), layered meringue cakes
with strawberries or hazelnut chocolate, bavarese (icecream cake), personalised celebration desserts.
PASTICCERIA BUDICIN
via Aurelia 186
16032 Camogli
Tel. 0185 770523
Since 1963
Founded in 1963 by Marco Budicin as a small pastry shop in Ruta of Camogli, over the course of time
and thanks to the quality of its products, it has achieved fame both in Genova and in Milan.
Product categories:
pastries
Mille-feuille, fruit tarts, pinolate (pine nut biscuits), baci
(sandwich cookies), canestrelli (shortcrust biscuits),
pandolce (Genoese fruitcake), chocolates filled with
brandied cherries, quaresimali (almond Lenten biscuits).
PASTICCERIA COPELLO DI ANTONINI L.&C Snc
Since 1826
via Martiri della Liberazione 162
16043 Chiavari
Tel. 0185 309837 – Fax 0185 1770373
www.copello.net – [email protected]
Founded in 1826 by Mr. Podestà, the pastry shop was managed by the Copello family for the first half
of the 1900s; since 1972, Luigi Antonini and his relatives have carried forward the tradition
of this historic shop with experience and passion.
Product categories:
pastries
pandolce (Genoese fruitcake), pandolce Vecchia Genova (old Genoese fruitcake), Lagaccio biscuits, anicini
(aniseed biscuits), caporali (ladyfinger-like biscuits),
quince jelly, canestrelli (shortcrust biscuits); rose, cherry,
blueberry, and raspberry syrups.
43
PANDOLCE GENOVESE (GENOESE FRUITCAKE)
INGREDIENTS
1 kg flour
35 g yeast
350 g butter, melted
300 g sugar
100 g pine nuts
100 g candied fruit, cut into
small pieces
(if possible, candied pumpkin)
600 g raisins
40 g orange flower water
a pinch of fennel seeds
a pinch of salt
P R E PA R AT I O N
Prepare a very soft dough using 500 g flour and the yeast, dissolved in lukewarm water. Place it
in a mixing bowl, and let it rise. After two hours, the dough will appear swollen. Add the rest of
the flour, the orange flower water, the butter melted over a double boiler, and the sugar,
kneading once again for about 30 minutes. Add the candied fruit, pine nuts, and raisins, mixing
well. Divide the dough into two or three equal parts, and leave it to rise on trays for about four
hours. Before placing them in an oven at 200°C, make three cuts in a triangle formation on the
top of each. After about an hour of cooking, they will have acquired their characteristic brown
colour: they’re ready! Be careful, though, to avoid burning the bottom too much.
N.B.: 30 g of well-peeled pistachios and a jigger of Marsala, or dried figs and walnuts can be
added to the traditional recipe.
44
PASTICCERIA DE VESCOVI
piazza XXVII Dicembre 15
16030 Zoagli
Tel. 0185 259187
Since 1963
Established in the second half of the 1900s by the De Vescovi family, the pastry shop firmly sustains
the traditional recipes of the confectionery art.
Product categories:
pastries
fresh pastries, canestrelli (shortcrust biscuits), baci
(sandwich cookies), “pinze” (Easter cake), “presnitz”
(mincemeat pastry).
PASTICCERIA DRIA DEI FRATELLI ROSSI Sas
corso Torino 93/r
16129 Genova
Tel. 010 942183
[email protected]
Since 1972
For almost 40 years, the Dria pastry shop has invested great passion into the production of exquisite
desserts, while both respecting genuine traditions and adding innovative elements.
Product categories:
torta Dria (Dria cake), pandolci (fruitcakes), canestrelli
(shortcrust biscuits), cavolini (cream-filled pastries).
PASTICCERIA SAN GIORGIO Snc
via Fado 154
16010 Mele
Tel. e fax 010 631811
[email protected]
Since 1998
Born as the “Osteria da Cichina” at the turn of the 20th century, the pastry shop was established
by the owner’s maternal grandmother, and has carefully passed down
the family recipes for three generations.
Product categories:
pastries
potato focaccia, pandolce (Genoese fruitcake),
canestrelli (shortcrust biscuits), and dry pastries.
45
PASTICCERIA
LE ROSE
Via Cornigliano 164r
16152 Genova
Tel. e fax 010 6512978
www.chococlub.com/le_rose/home.htm
[email protected]
46
PASTICCERIA KRAMER DI CHIASSERINI MASSIMO
Since 1995
via Piero Pinetti 18r
16144 Genova
Tel. 010 826455 – Fax 010 3742433
www. pasticceriakramer.it – [email protected]
For years, the owner has managed the pastry shop with professionalism and passion,
thanks to his experience matured in the field.
Product categories:
pastries
tall and low Genoese pandolci (fruitcakes), Lagaccio
biscuits, colomba (dove-shaped Easter cake), chocolate
eggs, pralines, chocolate bars, brioche.
PASTICCERIA LE ROSE A. DI BARRECA C.
Since 1979
via Cornigliano 164r
16152 Genova
Tel. e fax 010 6512978
www.chococlub.com/le_rose/home.htm – [email protected]
Since 1979, the pastry shop has been considered a “chocolate temple”, and for over thirty years,
it has stood out for its constant research and innovation in the chocolate sector. It also offers apprenticeship
opportunities and consulting for Italian and European businesses.
Product categories:
artisan chocolate in all forms, pralines, torta Zena (Genoa
cake), canestrelli (shortcrust biscuits), quaresimali
(almond Lenten biscuits), pandolce (fruitcake).
PASTICCERIA MANTERO
via Cantore 148r
16149 Sampierdarena
Tel. 010 417987
Since 1958
Founded in 1958 in via G.B. Monti, the pastry shop was inaugurated in 1972 in the building in which
it is still situated today. For three generations, it has continued to serve its clients
with the same passion as that of times past.
Product categories:
tall and low Genoese pandolci (fruitcakes), fresh and dry
pastries, biscuits of various types, and assorted leavened
products tied to the holidays.
47
BACI DI DAMA (“LADY KISSES”)
INGREDIENTS
100 g almonds
100 g flour
100 g sugar
100 g butter
dark chocolate
1 splash of rum
1 egg yolk
P R E PA R AT I O N
Peel the almonds; the easiest way is to put them in boiling water; after only a few minutes, their
skin comes off easily. Combine them in a food processor with half the sugar, then blend them
together with the flour, remaining sugar, softened butter, and egg yolk. If desired, add the rum at
the end. Quickly blend the dough, then let it rest in the refrigerator. Using a melon baller dipped
in cold water, scoop the biscuits out of the dough. Arrange them on a baking sheet lined with
parchment paper; bake them at 180°C for 15 minutes, then once cooked, let them cool.
At this point, melt the dark chocolate over a double boiler, let it cool slightly, then join two
cookies together by dipping the base of one into the chocolate.
48
PASTICCERIA CIOCCOLATERIA MEDAGLIA GUIDO
via Antonio Cantore 70r
16149 Genova
Tel. 010 6451619
[email protected]
Since 1951
The progenitor of the family of pastry chefs is Anna Tosto, who began the business in 1951.
In 1992, her grandson Guido Medaglia joined the team with the aim of carrying forward the family
tradition, focusing in particular on the manufacturing of chocolate.
Product categories:
Pandolce Genovese (Genoese fruitcake), fresh pastries,
mille-feuille, sacripantine (vanilla sponge cake), bavarese
(ice-cream cake), mousse, pralines, quaresimali (almond
Lenten biscuits), colomba (dove-shaped Easter cake),
artistic chocolate creations.
PASTICCERIA MOSTO
Since 1909
via Marconi 3
16010 Masone
Tel. 010 926054/634289 – Fax 010 8935112
www.pasticceriamosto.191.it – [email protected]
Founded in 1909 by Giacomo Pastorino, a.k.a. the “Mosto”, the pastry shop is famous for its Krumiri
biscuits and for its “health” biscuits, created by son Michele. The current owner Franca carries forward
the family tradition, producing pastries of supreme quality.
Product categories:
pastries
krumiri (cornmeal biscuits) and “health” biscuits (ideal for
breakfast, similar to “Lagaccio”).
PASTICCERIA ROBERTO DI OLCESE M&C Sas
Piazza Martinez 20/r
16143 Genova
tel. 010 500117
Since 2003
The pastry shop boasts a twenty-year tradition, carried forward by the current owner who,
thanks to his attentive experience in the field, maintains the same production
and original quality of the products.
Product categories:
fresh pastries, dry pastries, filled and unfilled cakes
cavolini (cream-filled pastries), mille-feuille, profiteroles,
peccati.
49
PASTICCERIA SVIZZERA
VITAL GASPERO
via Albaro 9/r
16145 Genova
[email protected]
50
PASTICCERIA SANSEBASTIANO LUCIANO
via Alessi 9r
16128 Genova
Tel. e fax 010 543289
[email protected]
Since 1948
For over 50 years now, Luciano Sansebastiano has overseen and produced his pastries,
maintaining his traditional recipes unaltered, with the help of his valuable colleagues.
Product categories:
pastries
pastries, chocolates, and pandolce (fruitcake).
PASTICCERIA SVIZZERA VITAL GASPERO Sas
via Albaro 9r
16145 Genova
[email protected]
Since 1910
Founded in 1910 by Vital Gaspera on an evocative, elegant Genoese hillside, his namesake pastry shop is
still an active laboratory of the art of sweet and savoury, always respecting the old traditions,
and now with national delivery service.
Product categories:
pastries
Panbrioche gastronomico (gourmet panettone cake),
pandolce Genovese (Genoese fruitcake), tartlets.
PASTICCERIA SANSEBASTIANO DI SANSEBASTIANO RICCARDO
Since 1961
via Quinto 9r
16166 Genova
Tel. e fax 010 3200207
www.civquintoalmare.it – [email protected]
Founded in Quinto in 1961, the pastry shop is a family-run business, where the young generations
continue their father’s confectionery tradition, himself still overseeing production,
aided also by the experience of grandson Stefano.
Product categories:
pastries
pandolce Genovese (Genoese fruitcake), torta Zena
(Genoa cake), chocolate-hazelnut cake, Sachertorte, meringue pie, torta Engadina (Engadine cake), braided
orange-flavoured brioche, dry and fresh pastries.
51
AMARETTI
INGREDIENTS
granulated sugar, as needed
200 g sweet almonds
120 g bitter almonds
80 g icing sugar
3 egg whites
a small amount of butter
and flour
P R E PA R AT I O N
Blanch both the sweet and bitter almonds in boiling water, and after peeling them, dry them
for 20 minutes in a lukewarm oven. Ground them carefully with a mortar and pestle, slowly
adding the sugar. Pass everything through a sieve. Next, add the egg whites, mixing until you
obtain a well-blended dough, neither too hard nor too soft. At this point, transfer the dough into
a pastry bag with a smooth nozzle. Butter and flour a baking sheet, and squeeze small dollops
out of the pastry bag onto the prepared sheet with a good distance between each. Dust them
with icing sugar, then let them rest for several hours. You’ll see that they spread into inflated
discs, about 6 cm wide. Bake them in a pre-heated oven at 170°C for about 30 minutes.
52
PASTICCERIA VALENTE DI PAGNONI G&C Snc
via Guido Rossa 14
16012 Busalla
Tel. 010 9642151 – Fax 010 9642151
www.pasticceriavelente.it – [email protected]
Since 1892
The Pasticceria Valente was founded in 1892 by Pietro Valente, great-grandfather of the two current owners;
for over 100 years, it has offered classic recipes side-by-side with new products of its own invention.
Product categories:
pastries
“focaccia di natale” (our patented fruitcake), mille-feuille,
torta Regina (Queen cake), and artisan croissants.
PASTICCERIA ZUCCHERO DI CAMPO
via De Gasperi 76/2
16014 Campomorone
Tel. 010 781950
Since 2002
The pastry shop originated 7 years ago and is well-known in the area and beyond.
Production focuses itself on the quality of its products but also takes particular care in their assembly and,
accordingly, in the “art” of presenting them to the public.
Product categories:
pastries
fresh and dry pastries, pralines, “pandolce di Campomorone” (sweet bread without raisins or candied fruit,
but rich with walnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, pine nuts, and
chocolate chips).
CIOCCOLATINI ALLE SPEZIE (SPICED CHOCOLATES)
INGREDIENTS
a pinch of ground cinnamon
a pinch of ground ginger
a pinch of ground hot red pepper
a pinch of ground nutmeg
P R E PA R AT I O N
Cut the chocolate into pieces, then divide it into four equal
parts, one for each flavour.
Melt one portion of the chocolate over a double boiler. Once it
reaches a fluid consistency, add the cinnamon and stir well.
Do the same for the other portions of chocolate, adding
and stirring in the remaining spices. At this point, spread the
chocolate out evenly on parchment paper to a thickness of ½
cm, and let it solidify. Lastly, use stencils or cookie cutters to
cut out chocolates as you please.
53
LA SPEZIA
LEGEND
Workshop
Retail store
54
Tearoom
LA SPEZIA
SPUNGATA (HONEY NUT CAKE)
INGREDIENTS
400 g flour
250 g honey
250 g walnuts
200 g sugar
2 cups white wine
100 g rusks (optional)
100 g butter
75 g almonds
75 g hazelnuts
75 g walnuts
50 g raisins
50 g pine nuts
50 g candied citron
50 g candied orange peel
baked apples and pears
50 g icing sugar
50 g pine nuts
1 tablespoon liqueur
spices and salt
P R E PA R AT I O N S
Peel the almonds by immersing them in hot water, and crumble the rusks. Toast the hazelnuts,
then grind them together with the walnuts; soften the raisins in lukewarm water. Chop the citron
and orange peel. Using a mortar, grind the almonds, adding in the sugar and pine nuts. In a
saucepan, boil the honey and half of the wine. After mixing all this together, flavour the filling
with a splash of liqueur and a dusting of spices. Let it rest for at least 24 hours.
Prepare the puff pastry using the flour, sugar, melted butter, remaining wine, and a pinch of salt.
After letting the pastry rest for about half an hour, roll it out into two sheets. Lay the first sheet in
a round cake pan, pour in the mixture, then top it with the second pastry sheet. Brush the latter
with the icing, and poke it with holes to expedite the cooking. It’s time to put it in the oven:
200°C for about 40 minutes. Once removed, let the dessert cool. Dust it with icing sugar, and
before serving, put it back in the oven at 100°C for a few minutes; this will render a softer filling
and a crisper puff pasty.
56
GEMMI Srl
via Mazzini 21
19038 Sarzana
Tel. 0187 620165 – Fax 0187 627356
[email protected]
Since 1854
Founded by Swiss pastry chefs in 1854, it has boasted traditional management by the Gemmi family
since 1934. Under its 16th century arcade, one can taste confectionery specialties, and at night,
dine by candlelight. It is a member of the Association of Historic Places of Italy.
Product categories:
pastries
spungata (honey and nut filled cake), buccellato (bundt
cake), focaccia of Sarzana, traditional confectionery
specialties, artisan hand-decorated chocolate Easter eggs.
IL MANDORLO DI LANDINI F&C Snc
Via P. Gori 28
19038 Sarzana
Tel. 0187610248 – Fax 0187 610248
[email protected]
Since 1954
Born under the name of “Bar Cupini”, since 1954 it has been run by bakers who through the years
continue to pass down recipes in the pastry tradition of Sarzana.
Product categories:
pastries
fresh pastries, dry pastries, local specialties, artisan
chocolate, spungata (honey and nut filled cake),
and sweet focaccia.
MALÚ DI CROCETTI M&L Snc
viale Mazzini 27
19038 Sarzana
Tel. 0187 624089 – Fax 0187 607331
[email protected]
Since 2006
Born from the Crocetti Brothers’ inspiration who since 2006 have dedicated themselves with passion
and care to the production of tartlets, and biscuits.
Product categories:
pastries
spungata (honey and nut filled cake), focaccia of Sarzana,
and tartlets.
57
BUCCELLATO (BUNDT CAKE)
INGREDIENTS
500 g flour
2 eggs
150 g sugar
1 cup milk
50 g butter
baking powder
lemon and orange flower oils
the addition of 50 g raisins,
50 g walnuts, or 20 g pine nuts
is optional
P R E PA R AT I O N S
Combine and mix all the ingredients until a soft dough forms; let it rise for several hours.
Knead it a second time in half kilo loaves, then let them rest. At this point, transfer the dough
into a bundt pan, and brush it with egg yolks and sugar. After letting it rise once more, bake
it in an oven at 200°C for 40 minutes.
It is produced in La Spezia’s hinterlands. Simple in its ingredients and in its classic doughnut
form, its name derives from buccellatum, the bread (or mouthful) of the military.
58
PASTICCERIA LA PERA
via XXIV Maggio 9/11
19124 La Spezia
Tel. 0187 24521
[email protected]
Since 1952
Established halfway through the 1900s, the pastry chefs continue to follow the traditional recipes
of their parents with care and attention.
Product categories:
pastries
celebration cakes, tartlets, southern dessert specialties.
PASTICCERIA VOTTERO
via Zoppi 13
19015 Levanto
Tel. e fax 0187 807237
[email protected]
Since 1978
The pastry shop was taken over at the end of 1977, and over the years, with great dedication and willpower,
has been raised to an optimum level of production.
Product categories:
pastries
baci di Levanto (sandwich cookies from Levanto), pane
del marinaio (the sailor’s fruitcake), a vast assortment of
fresh and dry pastries, assorted celebration cakes.
PUNTO DI INCONTRO
via Indipendenza 63
19020 Bolano - La Spezia
Tel. 0187 933728 – Fax 0187 933746
[email protected] – www.punto-incontro.eu
Since 1947
Situated in Ceparana di Bolano since 1969, the business boasts much older origins,
dating back to the first half of the 20th century.
Product categories:
fresh pastries, fresh desserts, ice-creams, and exclusively
artisan croissants; bread and focaccia.
59
CNA FOR ENTERPRISES
OUR OFFICES ARE AT THE DISPOSAL OF ENTERPRISES FOR:
• Consultation on subsidised loans, free grant
contributions, and guarantee consortiums
• banking agreements
• training courses
• documentation and filing required for the launching of
business activities
• tax services
• job, environment, and safety consultation
• quality certification
• participation in national and international trade fairs
• organisation of conventions and business meetings
60
USEFUL ADDRESSES
CNA LIGURIA
Via XII Ottobre, 2/61 - 16121 Genova
Tel: 010 5959171 - fax: 010 584244
www.liguria.cna.it
[email protected]
PROVINCIAL ASSOCIATION OF GENOA
Via San Vincenzo, 2 - 16121 Genova
Tel: 010 545371 - fax: 010 54537350
www.cna.ge.it
[email protected]
PROVINCIAL ASSOCIATION OF SPEZIA
Via Padre Giuliani, 6 - 19125 La Spezia
Tel: 0187 598080 - fax: 0187 598081
www.sp.cna.it
[email protected]
PROVINCIAL ASSOCIATION OF SAVONA
Via Paleocapa, 22/7 - 17100 Savona
Tel: 019 829708 - fax: 019 853689
www.cnasavona.it
[email protected]
PROVINCIAL ASSOCIATION OF IMPERIA
Vicolo San Lazzaro, 8 - 18038 Sanremo
Tel: 0184 573596 fax: 0184 593629
www.im.cna.it
[email protected]
61
LIST OF MANUFACTURES
PROVINCIA DI IMPERIA
• BISCOTTI GIBELLI SPECIALITÀ
DOLCIARIE
• PASTICCERIA ANGELO
di Mareri Federico
• PASTICCERIA DANILO
• PASTICCERIA PRIMAVERA
di Rambaldi Gianni
• PREMIATA PASTICCERIA GENOVESE
UNIPERSONALE Srl
• RACCA PASTICCERIA
• PASTICCERIA SETTI Snc
19
19
19
21
21
21
23
PROVINCIA DI SAVONA
• AMARETTI ASTENGO
• AUGUSTO VINCENZO BESIO Snc
• CALÌ IL PASTICCERE
di Monaco Anna
• CASA DEL DOLCE
• LABORATORIO PASTICCERIA BESIO
di Torello Paola e Riccardo Snc
• PASTICCERIA BAXIN
• PASTICCERIA GIORDANO ERNESTO Snc
• PASTICCERIA CONFETTERIA
di Gramegna Giuseppe & C Snc
• PASTICCERIA LA RIVIERA
di Iaffaldano Raffaella
• PASTICCERIA MARTINI
• PASTICCERIA OLIVA Snc
• PUNTO DOLCE Snc
di Damonte F. e Ferro E.
27
27
27
29
29
29
31
31
31
33
33
33
• F.LLI CROCCO Snc
• F.LLI GUASTAVINO Snc
• KLAINGUTI Srl
• LA BOTTEGA DEL GOLOSO Snc
• PASTICCERIA BARSOTTI ALBERTO
• PASTICCERIA BARBERIS
• PASTICCERIA BUDICIN
• PASTICCERIA COPELLO
di Antonini L&C Snc
• PASTICCERIA DE VESCOVI
• PASTICCERIA DRIA
dei fratelli Rossi Sas
• PASTICCERIA SAN GIORGIO Snc
• PASTICCERIA KRAMER
di Chiasserini Massimo
• PASTICCERIA LE ROSE A. di Barreca C.
• PASTICCERIA MANTERO
• PASTICCERIA CIOCCOLATERIA
MEDAGLIA GUIDO
• PASTICCERIA MOSTO
• PASTICCERIA ROBERTO
di Olcese M&C Sas
• PASTICCERIA SANSEBASTIANO
LUCIANO
• PASTICCERIA SVIZZERA
VITAL GASPERO Sas
• PASTICCERIA SANSEBASTIANO
di Riccardo Sansebastiano
• PASTICCERIA VALENTE
di Pagnoni G.&C Snc
• PASTICCERIA ZUCCHERO DI CAMPO
39
39
41
41
41
43
43
43
45
45
45
47
47
47
49
49
49
51
51
51
53
53
PROVINCIA DELLA SPEZIA
PROVINCIA DI GENOVA
• ANTICO BISCOTTIFICIO
DELLA FOCE di Bonaldo Srl
• ATTILIO CAVO Srl
• BUDICIN SRL UNIPERSONALE
• CREMACACAO Srl
37
37
37
39
• GEMMI Srl
• IL MANDORLO di Landini F&C Snc
• MALÚ di Crocetti M.&L. Snc
• PASTICCERIA LA PERA
• PASTICCERIA VOTTERO
• PUNTO DI INCONTRO
62
57
57
57
59
59
59
INDEX
Introdutions
3
Ligurian Pastry: a heritage worth safeguarding
9
A Brief History of Ligurian Pastry
10
When a desserts tell a story...
11
From the West to the East Riviera, an appetisingly window
13
Provincia Imperia
16
Provincia di Savona
24
Provincia di Genova
34
Provincia della Spezia
54
List of manufactures
62
63
Finito di stampare nel maggio 2009
da Alsaba Colle Val d’Elsa (SI) per San Giorgio Editrice Spa

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