Focus: Facial care

Transcript

Focus: Facial care

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E 51 2 8 0
COSMETICS
S P R AY T E C H N O L O G Y
MARKETING
Ingredients
All-in-one
wrinkle and
lip filler
Marketing
Can they compete?
A special demand
placed on SMEs
Product development
Silicones as a
multitalented
cosmetics ingredient
Test methods
Make-up removers:
New ways to test
their efficacy
VIP of the Month
Dr. Jan Jänichen
of Dr. Straetmans
provides an update
on the subject of
preservatives
Focus: Facial care
9 / 2 0 14
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EDITORIAL
All for a
pretty face
With regard to the face, people have always understood how to accentuate the facial features offered by
nature. While the make-up artists use make-up products and brushes as their tools, in this digital age,
mostly with the help of Photoshop etc., people create
unachievable beauty ideals.
The journalist Esther Honig has carried out an interesting experiment on this subject. She has identified
49 professional people from 25 different
Downloads
countries via the InterAdditional information at
net, and asked them to
www.health-and-beauty.com/
work on her portfolio
qr00302
or scan the QR code now!
photo with the aim of
Your access codes for September
User name: cossma9
“Make me beautiful!”.
Password: face
The result was a fasciPS: Our QR codes and our tablet compatible e-paper
nating cross-section of
will take you rapidly by direct link to TV clips, downloads,
book tips and more.
international beauty
ideals, which can be
seen at www.estherhonig.com/#!before–after-/cvkn.
The experiment shows how strongly the beauty ideal
is linked to the face.
It’s no wonder then, that the facial care sector has
grown significantly in the last five years. According
to information from Euromonitor*, in this period
facial product sales increased by 26.8 percent to
87,446.8 million US Dollars worldwide.
Interestingly the growth in Europe over the same period was rather modest at 6.4 percent. In North America the figure was 15.7 percent.
Above-average growth was seen in the Asia/Pacific
region. Here the growth figure was a huge 35.6 percent and in 2013 led to sales of 47,579.2 million US
Dollars and the lion’s share of the global market.
The category which generated the highest sales with
30,894.1 million US Dollars worldwide was moisturising products. The second highest category was antiageing products, that recorded sales of 24,645.3 million US Dollars. Although moisturising products have
such a strong turnover in the facial care market the
growth was, at 24.7 percent, smaller than anti-ageing
products. Sales here have grown since 2008 by 39.1
percent and interestingly there was an even bigger
growth rate in a small sector with global sales of
4,250.7 million US Dollars – namely the facial mask
market. Here sales grew by a significant 43 percent
since 2008.
And how could you, and your products, achieve increases
in sales? Well, in addition to creative product ideas a lot of
know-how is needed. What about some clever formulations for very mature skin? You can learn, starting on page
12, about the requirements that the 65+ age group expects from marketing experts. And with what ingredients
could you create such products? Petra Schlegel of Greentech fills in some gaps for us.
Hagen Döring and Laura Gallego of Provital also cover anti-ageing in their article starting on page 16. They present
in-vivo and in-vitro results that demonstrate just what a
sesame-based active can do in filling wrinkles and adding
volume to the lips.
And the way that an active with a nutrient taken from milk
can activate the cells’ detoxification system is explained by
Harald van der Hoeven of CLR, starting on page 10.
And these are just the topics from our facial care focus this
month. On top of all this we have collected plenty of interesting information and news for you. Come and be surprised!
*Further figures of the facial care market can be found on the Internet
(see Internet panel)
Yours
Angelika Meiss
Senior editor, COSSMA
Follow us on
www.linkedin.com/in/cossma
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COSSMA 9 I 2014
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Contents
3
Editorial
쮿
NEWS
8
Markets + Profiles
쮿
FOCUS
Facial care
10
Harald van der Hoeven, CLR:
Dual approaches to skin nutrition –
milk-based active ingredient
12
Petra Schlegel, Greentech:
The very mature skin –
a special demand placed on the marketing team
10 I Active ingredient
16
with milk-based nutrients
activates cellular
detoxification
a Hagen Döring, Laura Gallego, Provital:
All-in-one wrinkle filler and lip plumper
18
Vivienne Rudd, Mintel:
International launches
쮿
20
MARKETING
a Dr. Jan Jänichen, Dr. Straetmans:
React fast, with safe alternatives –
new preservative trends
22
12 I Very ma-
a Interview with Andrea Weber, Babor,
Dr. Joachim Gottfreund, Sebapharma,
and Dr. Rainer Wohlfart, Kneipp:
What chance do middle sized companies have?
ture skin is
a challenge for
marketing
<
24
Star of the Month:
A bath additive specially for men
쮿
PRODUCTION
26
a Prof. Dr. Andrea Wanninger, Theresia Köhler,
Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences:
Silicones – Multitalented for cosmetics?
28
30
New Ingredients
a Claudia Balluff, Hohenstein Institute:
Make-up removal – new methods for efficient testing
20 I Preservatives: the
current situation
and safe
alternatives
32
Packaging News
쮿
SERVICES
6
34
36
38
Download List
Essential Oils: Price list
Formulations: Body care
BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2014:
Business partners – wanted – found
30 I New methods
to help testing
make-up remover
39
42
44
48
48
49
50
50
Events Diary
International B2B Exchange
Suppliers‘ Guide
Company Index
Advertisers‘ Index
Masthead Page
Trend statement by Dr. Véronique Delvigne,
Lancôme International Paris
Preview
a Leading articles
Front cover picture: Kuleczka, Shutterstock.com
COS1409_NCD_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 25.08.14 13:05 Seite 1
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61. SEPAWA CONGRESS
FULDA
15. - 17. OCTOBER 2014
NCD INGREDIENTS STAND 203-204
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Variati® proposes a complete range of ingredients obtained from sustainable and renewable vegetable
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that require ingredients with a high functional value.
EVOSINA® – Unique, Natural, Bacteriostatic Active Ingredient
(INCI: Sodium Usnate)
VARI® STAN PE – Vegetable anti-bacterial Active Ingredient from Mangosteen
(INCI: Propanediol, Garcinia Mangostana Peel Extract)
HYDROVEG® R – Inspired by the Skin NMF
(INCI: Aqua, Sodium PCA, Diglycerin, Urea, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Sorbitol, Lysine, PCA,
Allantoin, Lactic Acid)
AVOGELIA® – Active Avocado - Natural Active Ingredient, Emulsifier and Emollient
(INCI: Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Aqua, Glycerin, Potassium Cocoyl
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NCD Ingredients GmbH – simply good
Ulanenplatz 12 · 63452 Hanau – Germany · Fon: +49 (0)6181-2702-60 · Fax: +49 (0)6181-2702-69
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SERVICES
DOWNLOAD
Free Downloads for Subscribers
www.cossma.com/download
COSSMA Download-Tip in September
Click through our Web TV clips:
www.cossma.com/tv
Alain Khaiat from
Seers Consulting
shows how, combining three natural
extracts, presents a
natural and yet effective approach to
anti-ageing protection.
COSSMA subscribers can download further background information.
photo: Syda Productions, Shutterstock.com
… presents market trends for hair care in Brasil.
Natural protection against skin aging
Anti-ageing approach
combining three
natural extracts
Top-Downloads for September
… informs about the latest trends in preservatives.
• Suppliers:
Market Survey Ingredient
Suppliers
• Market data:
Natural Cosmetics in Russia
photo: Nikolai Sorohin, Fotalia.de
• Events:
In-Cosmetics Brasil
• Formulation:
Protective Styling with
Argan Oil
(Bayer Material Science)
… explains how calories and anti-ageing go together.
Downloads
… erklärt, wie bei der Entwicklung einer Kosmetikverpackung alle Sinne des Konsumenten angesprochen
werden sollten.
6
COSSMA 9I 2014
Additional information at
or you can just scan
the QR code!
Your access codes
for September:
User name: cossma9
Password: face
Log in and take full advantage! On the COSSMA
web site we post lots of additional information
elated to the topics covered in the magazine.
You will find more than 1,000 useful additional items
to extend your knowledge and understanding:
more information on the ingredients and
finished products that we cover, market data and
statistics, supplier listings, literature references,
scientific articles, product formulations and useful
base formulations. Take a look right now, at
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hicadv.it
A drop of purity
Preservative-free filling for multidose bottles:
a forward-thinking alternative
The future of ophthalmic preparations is preservative-free. A milestone that Lameplast Group has
now reached also in the sector of multidose bottles in partnership with Aptar Pharma for filling
its newest device: the Ophtalmic Squeeze Dispenser (OSD). This revolutionary multidose bottle is
now available for delivering preservative-free ophthalmic products till their very last drop of purity.
www.lameplastgroup.com
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NEWS
MARKETS + PROFILES
Adolf Hopf:
Sigrid Lichtenberg
Coty:
Dr. Joachim Lubig
Biesterfeld:
René Busler
President & General Manager
DACH (Germany, Austria and
Switzerland), and Benelux at
Coty. Nicole Nitschke, General
Manager Coty Prestige, reports
directly to Dr. Lubig.
Biesterfeld I René Busler
(51) is the new sales manager at
Biesterfeld Spezialchemie Helvetia, a 100% subsidiary of Biesterfeld Spezialchemie GmbH,
Hamburg.
Sturm und Drang:
Tim Kuhrcke
People
Adolf Hopf I Sigrid Lichtenberg is now operating as an
external sales rep at Kunststoffwerke Adolf Hopf.
L’Oréal Professionelle
Produkte I Theresa von Fugler as the new general manager
now coordinates Carita, Decléor
and Essie for Professionals
brands, as well as the professional beauty care sector (i.e. the
Coty I Dr. Joachim Lubig has
taken on the position of Vice
Efficacy Testing of Products in the Lab
L’Oréal:
Theresa von Fugler
Mintel:
Mikel Sacher
German Division L’Oréal Professionelle Produkte). The post of
sales manager Care & Styling
has been taken over by Henrika
Steck, head of coloration marketing is Kristin Devantier and head
of the Business Development
Marketing Team is Nicole Silvestre. At Matrix Carola Kannengießer has taken over the
post of marketing manager from
Paul Eisenhawer.
Mintel I Mikel Sacher has
joined the company’s Beauty &
Personal Care team as Director
of Business Development and
Accounts working from Mintel’s
New York office. Her experience
and knowledge include a proven
track record of working with For-
Shiseido:
Yoshiaki Sato
tune 500 companies in the beauty, luxury and fashion sectors.
Shiseido I Yoshiaki Sato (51)
has been with Shiseido for 28
years and is now the new president of Shiseido Germany. Here
he is responsible not only for
German business but also for
other markets in Europe.
Sturm und Drang I Tim
Kuhrcke (35) is now director of
Innovation Strategy of the Hamburg innovations agency “Sturm
und Drang”, which is a strategic
partner of the global branding
agency MetaDesign. His strong
point is innovation research.
He also operates as a member
of the management board.
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MARKETS + PROFILES
NEWS
The future
of natural
cosmetics
This is where distinguished parties in the natural cosmetics
business will meet
Natural Cosmetics Industry Congress 2014 I
The international natural cosmetics industry congress*, which
is organised by the Naturkosmetik publishing house, takes
place this year on the 7th and 8th of October at the Hotel Ellington in Berlin. The focus of the event will be Natural Cosmetics
2020. This will include future growth strategies for future scenarios. For example the future researcher Harald Welzer and
design researcher Lola Güldenberg, will talk about how the
trade and industry will be able to react to social changes. International experts will clarify the finer points of the market from
different perspectives. They will offer “best practice” examples
and present some innovative approaches for the trade.
Furthermore topics such as future growth strategies, design for
the future, packaging offensives for natural cosmetics, the new
self-awareness of consumers, new approaches to the trade,
resource effective ways to gain new clients, slow retail turnover
and expansion of international markets will all be covered.
The expert discussion on the first congress day will cover the
expectations of natural cosmetics customers and the orientation they want for themselves. On the second day the experts
will run a podium discussion about future strategies for the natural cosmetics sector. In Forum A Alexander von Keyserlingk,
will cast more light on the subject of individualisation in the
retail trade, with some in-depth information. Forum B will be
focussed on the subjects of raw materials safety and acquisition, plus efficacy testing.
photos: Angelika Meiss
On October 6th, i.e. the day before the congress, there will be a tour of some of the
natural cosmetics hotspots in Berlin, between 14.00h and 18.00h.
*Infos: www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de
The congress programme
will be run by Elfriede
Dambacher. She is the
owner of Naturkosmetik
Konzepte and general
manager of the Naturkosmetik publishers
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FOCUS: FACIAL CARE INGREDIENTS
Milk-based active ingredient
Dual approaches
to skin nutrition
Downloads
Additional information can be found
at www.health-and-beauty.com/
qr00294
or you can just scan the QR code!
Your access codes for September:
User name: cossma9
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photo: Igor Stepovik, Shutterstock.com
Dual approach to cellular nutrition:
Active ingredient with nutrients from milk
can be digested by skin cells and activate
the cellular detoxification systems
Harald van der Hoeven of CLR presents ProBioBalance NP,
an active ingredient composed of probiotic bifidobacteria disintegrated in a bioactive milk-based nutrient. In vitro and in vivo tests
demonstrate that it nourishes the skin and also activates cellular
waste disposal and recycling. The result is a detoxifying and skin
balancing effect.
M
ilk (see box) has a long
standing reputation in the
history of beauty. Cleopatra,
for example, bathed in milk to enhance
her skin’s youthfulness. Since the start
of this millennium, the use of milkbased active ingredients in cosmetic
formulations has shown strong and
continuing growth. By fractionating the
different proteins and peptides from
milk, active ingredients are obtained
with a multitude of extremely benefi-
cial effects on the skin, whether they
are anti-wrinkle and firming effects or
ingredients which are specifically suitable for the care of strongly inflamed
and troubled skin.
Combining the use of probiotic bacteria in a milk-based nutrient is something the food industry has been doing
successfully for quite some years now.
“Pro bio” means “for life,” and the probiotic bacteria, consumed orally, are
thought to be maintained in the gut,
Fig 1: Intracellular processes toward nutrient digestion and autophagy of cellular waste
10
COSSMA 9 I 2014
binding to intestinal epithelial cells
and preventing the growth of pathogenic bacteria, thus promoting gastrointestinal health. Additionally, probiotic bacteria have been shown to
possess many beneficial effects on the
immune function. In the intestines
they do so by stimulating the intestinal epithelial cells – not like a whole microbe, but with their structural components and metabolites. This has been
reported to lead to (among other effects) an improvement of the barrier
function of these cells.
Bifidobacterium is one of the most
important probiotic bacteria used in
the dairy industry. In adult intestines,
only 3–6% of the flora is composed of
bifidobacteria, while in breastfed infants bifidobacteria can constitute up
to 90%. With increasing age, the number of bifidobacteria decreases. It was
observed that babies and adults with
lower levels of bifidobacteria have a
higher risk of diarrhoea and allergies.
This is why bifidobacteria are added
as a probiotic supplement to infant
formulas, drinks, and yogurts.
Applying probiotic bacteria topically
might be beneficial to the skin for cosmetic purposes, but is not feasible, as
introducing and managing live bacteria
in cosmetic formulations is difficult.
Moreover, the harsh environmental
conditions on the skin prevent the colonization of skin by probiotic bacteria. As
mentioned above, however, it is the
structural elements and metabolites
which are essential in obtaining biological benefits from probiotic bacteria.
Cosmetic active ingredients on the
basis of lysates of probiotic bacteria
have been shown to lead to powerful
active ingredients for skin care, especially when combined with milk pro-
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Skin rednesss [%]
Lysosomal activity after
undernourishment
Lysosomes are the digestive system
of our cells. A battery of lysosomal enzymes digests food ingredients, macromolecules, and cellular debris. The
more lysosomes are active, the better
the cell is nurtured.
Keratinocytes were grown in a complete medium providing optimum nutrition with and without our active ingredient. After 72 hours the complete
medium, as well as the active ingredient, were removed and the concentration of nutritive substances was reduced with the aim of under-nourish-
5% ProBioBalance NP
untreated
Placebo
Fig. 2: Reduction of skin irritation and
protection against skin damage
ing the cells. Under the conditions
produced by the incomplete medium,
the cells that had been pre-treated
with the active ingredient remained
on a higher vitality level and could
cope with stress situations without
difficulties.
Activating cellular waste
disposal and recycling
Cellular waste can be disposed of
and made available for reuse by autophagy. During this process, cellular
waste is engulfed in autophagosomes.
The autophagosomes then fuse with
lysosomes, allowing for the digestion
of the cellular waste. The outer cell
membrane of autophagosomes contains a unique protein called LC3B,
which serves as a general marker for
autophagic membranes and for monitoring autophagosome production as
they develop. Cells were grown in the
presence of our active ingredient. At
different concentrations, it shows an
increase in LC3B*, leading to the conclusion that it induces autophagosome production and, therefore, cellular waste disposal and re-use.
figures: CLR
teins, essentially mimicking probiotic
drinks.
Nutritional cosmetics are a large
and strongly growing segment of the
personal care market. Consumers understand the need to “feed” the skin
with beneficial ingredients from cosmetic skin care formulations.
The active ingredient ProBio
Balance CLR NP consists of probiotic
bifidobacteria disintegrated in a bioactive milk-based nutrient. It constitutes
a complete approach toward probiotic
nutrition for the skin by providing the
skin and the skin cells with essential
nutrients from milk, which are endocytized, after which the so-called endosomes fuse with lysosomes, enabling
the digestion of the nutrients (see
fig. 1). Yet it also contains another, new
approach toward skin nutrition.
In essence, especially in older skin,
the skin cells accumulate high amounts
of defective and damaged cellular components. The accumulation of this cellular “waste” is considered to be one of
the hallmarks of ageing. Interestingly,
the active ingredient based on probiotic bifidobacteria is able to activate intracellular systems, allowing for the disposal and recycling of cellular waste,
which essentially means that it can activate cellular detoxification systems and
enable the re-use of the waste. The endpoint of the activation of these socalled autophagy processes, during
which cellular waste is “engulfed” by autophagosomes, is similar to that of providing the cells with essential nutrients
from milk – the cells become healthier
and more vital (see Fig. 1).This dual approach to cellular nutrition illustrates
its potency as a cosmetic active ingredient for skin care formulations.
INGREDIENTS FOCUS: FACIAL CARE
and the strains of everyday life. Under
stress conditions we are more shorttempered, our immune system deteriorates, and our skin becomes more
sensitive, easily irritated, and thus vulnerable. Our active ingredient acts as a
protective shield for the skin. It helps
reduce irritability of the skin and at the
same time protects it from additional
stress. The less the skin is irritated, the
more balanced it is.
An in vivo study with 20 volunteers
demonstrated that our active ingredient leads to a more balanced skin: Defined skin areas were treated with SDS
to induce redness (irritation). The decrease in redness was then recorded for
skin areas treated twice daily with a formulation containing 5% of our active
ingredient and compared with a placebo and certain untreated controls. On
Day 9 the SDS treatment was repeated
and the development of skin redness
recorded. An O/W cream with 5% of our
ingredient was shown to reduce the visible signs of skin irritation, and the skin
Beneficial effects of milk
Milk contains many nutrients that keep us healthy. The
most important of these are proteins and calcium. Milk
also contains phosphorus, which is used with calcium to
build and maintain bones. Many other minerals and essential amino acids are also present in milk, but in smaller
amounts. Riboflavin and other vitamins, fat, and sugar
(lactose) provide the energy in milk and the flavour that
makes it taste good. Especially milk produced directly
after birth, colostrum, has exceptional biological activity,
which is important for the stimulation of development
processes in newborns.
was much better protected against
damage compared with the untreated
cream and the placebo (see fig. 2).
Increase in metabolic activity
A seemingly logical consequence of
cellular nutrition – whether by supplying nutritive elements or activating cellular waste disposal and re-use – is
that the skin cells become more vital
and show higher levels of activity. This
is indeed the case using our active
ingredient. In an MTT assay – a colorimetric assay where the activity of
NAD(P)H-dependent oxidoreductase
enzymes is quantified – the metabolic
activity of cells, which allows them to
grow and reproduce, was determined.
The metabolic activity of cells was increased depending on the concentration of our active*.
Day after day, our whole body is exposed to both environmental stress
Skin nutrition and cellular
detoxification
Having transferred the probiotic
idea to the cosmetic field, CLR’s active
ingredient ProBioBalance is composed
of probiotic bifidobacteria disintegrated in a bioactive milk-based nutrient,
thus combining skin nutrition and cellular detoxification with a skin-balancing effect.
*Illustrative figures as well as a sample formulation can
be found on the Internet – see Internet panel
Harald van der Hoeven
Director of Technical
Marketing, CLR
Berlin, Germany
[email protected]
www.clr-berlin.com
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The very mature skin
A special demand placed
on the marketing team
photo: Istockphoto.com
The lifetime experience,
and ability to evaluate a
product, of those over 65
call for product concepts
with clear benefits
People over the age of 65 tend to set great store on their external
appearance6. And so how can the cosmetics sector respond to this
need? Petra Schlegel of Greentech shows what these very special
consumers expect from products in this sector, and what are the
most useful and sensible ingredients.
T
he question of the so-called “Baby Boomers”, who of course are
now part of the main market, not
only applies in Europe but to the
world. The percentage of older people
in the world population is increasing
all the time, and this brings with it the
need to tackle, head-on, the problem
of skin ageing.
Active substances that are intended
to combat and repair the ageing
process must work with the hormones
and the skin’s immune system in order
to provide a proper balance of the
substances that the skin cannot supply
in adequate quantities.
Tackling intrinsic skin ageing
Hormone production falls off with
increasing age.
Whilst in men the testosterone level slowly but constantly reduces from
the age of about 40, the reduction in
hormone levels in women falls off
relatively quickly.
Skin ageing can be tackled on two
levels. There are plenty of actives on the
market to combat extrinsic or environmental ageing effects. These are, however, largely useless when tackling intrinsic biological (genetic) skin ageing.
12
COSSMA 9 I 2014
When one’s hormone
production starts to fall back
The signs of hormonal skin ageing
in 80 percent of women over the age of
60 can clearly be seen.
Phytohormones which, unlike oestrogen and progesterone, may be used
in cosmetics, work particularly well
against this hormonal skin ageing. By
phytohormones we mean substances
of plant origin such as isoflavones,
cumestans and lignanes, that are
found, for example, in soya, cotton
seed (Gossypium herbaceum seed),
red clover (Trifolium pratense) and
ladies mantle (Alchemilla vulgaris).
The polyphenol structure of the
isoflavones is similar to that of oestrogen and so they could bond with estradiol receptors in the skin.
For the Lignostimuline active only
cotton seed from Burkina Faso is used
because this is particularly rich in lignane. It has been developed to target
precisely genetic skin ageing. The
active stimulates the synthesis of
collagen I, supports the structure of
the connective tissue and so improves
the skin’s elasticity.
With Soybean Isoflavones Greentech
research was able to develop an active
which neutralises the activity of peroxide radicals and protects the cell membranes. This intense active for postmenopausal skin focuses on the phytohormonal action of the isoflavones
contained in the formulation.
Reduced defensive wall
Even the skin’s own immune system
becomes less effective with age. This is
in addition to the limitations of the
skin’s acid protection layer where the
number or level of langerhans cells
that belong to the skin’s defensive wall
are reduced1,7 in size and so the ability
to defend against wound infection is
also reduced.
Here Greentech turns to the science
of traditional Chinese medicine. The
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INGREDIENTS
shiitake extract in Biomoduline activates, in a natural, fresh manner, the
defensive cells in the skin and also
works against free radicals.
It reinforces the skin’s natural protection mechanism and activates immune-competent cells such as langerhans cells, keratinocytes and macrophages.
Steps towards reducing
extrinsic skin ageing
In cases of extrinsic skin ageing one
will see deeper wrinkles than normal,
the connective tissue becomes tired
and the skin’s pigmentation becomes
flecked and uneven. 62% of those between the ages of 51 and 60 already experience this problem4. We have no real data for those over 65, however one
can assume that the problem increases
with age. Because UV light is a prime
accelerator of the ageing process extrinsic skin ageing is often called photo-ageing.
Elastosis – and the secret
of the zebrafish
Whilst humans can only repair certain damaged limbs and organs to a
limited extent, fish and amphibians
have an amazing capacity for self-heal.
Scientists at the University of Konstanz
have shown for the first time that
retinoic acid, known in dermatological
acne treatment, is indispensible for
regeneration2.
“Retinoic acid activates a gene that
protects the replacement cells2 from
fatality.” The molecule, obtained from
vitamin A, triggers various genes in humans and animals which are important
for the development. “An artificially increased concentration of retinoic acid
increases the cell division rate in the
blastema*”, confirmed Prof. Dr. Gerrit
Begemann who is studying the action
of retinoic acids in zebra fish.
“As soon as we reached a targeted
genetic change in the fish and temporarily prevented them from producing retinoic acid there were also no
more blastemas being produced.”2
Even the very best cosmetics alone
cannot of course produce a new skin.
Current efforts in dermatological research are however moving in the direction of regeneration.
Very mature skin, especially in the
light-exposed areas of the face and
FOCUS: FACIAL CARE
neck, tends to become harder. If the tissue around the eyes, the temples and
the mouth becomes knotted and hard
we call it “elastosis senilis”. This form
of elastosis is seen mostly in older people with light coloured skin of type I or
II, and with little pigment protection.
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Based on years of intense exposure to
the sun the collagen fibres become degenerated.
So what can we now learn from the
zebrafish? To act against existing elastosis senilis vitamin A acid treatment
and expanded therapies with hormones containing oestrogen were
used in the past.
Vitamin A acid has been forbidden
for use in cosmetics for several years
now, but can be used in dermatology
under the name of Tretinoin. A natural
alternative is available in the form of
쑺
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the active substance Setiline, which
was compared in vitro with the action
of vitamin A acid.
With regard to the differentiation of
the keratinocytes and the compacting
of the epidermis this active is comparable with retinoic acid. In addition it
achieves an improved skin barrier function and cell cohesion. The reduction
in wrinkles can be seen after 28 days
with the naked eye.
Getting to grips with
pigmentation spots
Free radicals are produced in almost all physiological processes, but
are intensified by UV light. We work on
the basis that up to 90% of ageing
processes can be traced back to UV
light4,7.
Pigmentation spots are not the result of ageing. One woman in three,
over the age of 40, suffers to some degree or other from hyperpigmentation.
However, the pigmentation increases
with age and is regarded as highly undesirable. To offer some help to the
65+ age group there are actives like
Clerilys W.
Products for the
65+ age group
Whilst the ageing percentage of the
population is on the increase the
younger target group, with the buying
power, is getting smaller. Consumers
older than their mid-fifties tend to use
less cosmetics and personal care products5, but do a great deal to stay young
in terms of their clothing, their freedom, fitness and general appearance.
Simply “bringing products to the
market” is just not enough according to
this most critical consumer group, who
in addition to good value for money also want to see some evidence of efficacy5. Based on their lifetime experience
and their outstanding ability to judge
a product, the demands of this consumer group are more complex and
multi-layered. For cosmetics aimed at
the older generation it is also important that certain wrinkles will (in combination with cosmetic care) be testament to a person’s experience of life
and self awareness, and pick out a
senior citizen who enjoys life. So there
is no “nor” involved in anti-wrinkle
creams.
What can cosmetics manufacturers
do to reach this consumer group with
their new products? The answer is: offer products that are really relevant,
with a clearly recognisable user benefit
and which appeal properly to the consumers’ physiological, emotional and
demographic needs.
At the same time these products
must also be appropriately designed,
formulated and marketed. In concrete
terms this means packaging with a
clear and easy to follow label and authentic messages, which do not ever
play on the fact that these are for older
consumers. The best thing is to meet
the real needs of this constantly growing consumer sector, with no running
commentary.
*Blastema: fibre of undifferentiated cells from which,
step by step, the body develops
The literature list and further product information as well
as a formulation, can be found on the Internet
(see Internet panel).
Petra Schlegel
Marketingmanager, Greentech
Starnberg, Germany
[email protected]
www.greentechgmbh.de
[email protected]
www.greentech.fr
Supercritical Extracts by
www.flavex.com
Germany
Experience the Essence of Nature
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All-in-one wrinkle filler
and lip plumper
without complications, giving rise to
subcutaneous adipose tissue that is
diffuse and homogenously distributed7. However, as we age, even though
the determination phase remains
active and the stem cells continue
their subsequent differentiation into
preadipocytes in the later stages, they
Active ingredient providing
a greater volume to the
areas that have lost their
shape over the years
photo: Vita Khorzhevska, Shutterstock.com
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Hagen Döring from Provital presents in vitro and in vivo results demonstrating
that the vegetable based active ingredient Linefill refills wrinkles and cutaneous folds and has a volumizing effect on the lips.
A
s we age, our skin undergoes a
number of changes. One of the
most important is the loss or
redistribution of facial volume and
subcutaneous fat, which modifies the
face’s balance and which is one of the
most visible signs of aging. This makes
our folds and wrinkles become more
accentuated, especially those around
the mouth and eyes, and also leads to
a loss of lip volume1.
Dermal fillers are currently among
the most popular methods used to fill
wrinkles and expression lines and replace facial volume. The American Society of Plastic Surgeons stated that, in
2012, these fillers were the second
most popular non-surgical anti-ageing
treatment, after Botox, with more than
2 million applications in the USA. In
addition, lip augmentation is also a
common treatment for retaining a
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COSSMA 9 I 2014
young, attractive appearance and to
increase self-esteem2. However, these
invasive procedures can often give rise
to unexpected results and a potential
loss of harmony between the injected
features can lead to an unnatural appearance.
During our youth, all the phases of
adipogenesis (see boxes) take place
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do not complete their final differentiation into functional adipocytes capable of synthesizing and accumulating
fat8. This reduces subcutaneous fat,
particularly around the eyes, on the
forehead and around the mouth.
Decreasing the effects
of less subcutaneous fat
Restoring a natural volume distribution is one of the main objectives of
facial rejuvenation, and can now be obtained with the help of cosmetics. It is
possible to reverse the ageing process
by stimulating the first phases of the
preadipocyte’s final differentiation;
this decreases the effects of the loss of
subcutaneous fat.
Linefill is a natural active obtained
from seeds of sesame – Sesamum indicum, a plant native to Ethiopia. It is a
Components of adipose tissue
One of the main characteristics of adipose tissues is that it has a highly heterogeneous
cell population, however, the majority of cells are mature adipocytes3:
• Preadipocytes are cells that are predestined to differentiate only into adipocytes.
They still retain a phenotype similar to that of a fibroblast, but they have already developed
the enzymatic machinery of an adipocyte, although they are not able to synthesize or
accumulate lipids.
• Adipocytes are the most common cells in adipose tissue. They have a rounded shape
when they are isolated and become polyhedral when they are grouped into lobes.
One of their functions is the synthesis and accumulation of lipids (in a large triglyceridefilled vacuole).
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fraction rich in sesamin, which belongs
to a group of compounds called lignans. This active stimulates the body’s
natural mechanisms, allowing it to
promote a more natural and attractive
redistribution of facial volume in the
area around the mouth and lips.
Linefill is able to activate PPARγ (see
box 2) by acting as a ligand or agonist,
which stimulates the conversion of
preadipocytes to adipocytes, resulting
in more mature adipocytes that are
able to synthesize and accumulate
fats.
Proven in vitro effects
Triglyceride quantification is a biochemical indicator of adipocyte differentiation or adipogenesis. In order to
quantify triglyceride concentrations in
the adipocytes, the cells were lysed
and the triglycerides (TG) hydrolyzed
to obtain glycerol, which is measured
by optical density.
Linefill was shown to increase the
amount of triglyceride stored in
adipocytes for all concentrations
tested. Triglyceride levels increased
by some 30% at a concentration of
430 ppm. Thus, the active ingredient
stimulates the early stages of adipogenesis (preadipocyte differentiation to
mature adipocytes) and increases lipid
synthesis and storage capacity.
Oil-Red O staining was carried out
to allow the variation in triglyceride accumulation obtained by stimulating
adipogenesis to be seen under the microscope: The number and size of the
lipid vesicles increased, showing that
the preadipocytes have successfully
differentiated into fully functional, mature adipocytes that are able to accumulate more triglycerides.
Proven in vivo efficacy
A double blind comparative study
was conducted in order to evaluate the
in vivo efficiency of Linefill as a wrinkle
filler and lip volumizer when compared
to a placebo. The reduction in wrinkling and roughness was determined
using the capture and comparison
of 3D images by fringe projection
(PRIMOS) both on D0 and on D28. The
efficacy of Linefill was evaluated in
three areas with different types of wrinkles, in order to demonstrate that it is
effective against all types of wrinkles:
nasolabial fold, supralabial area (barcode wrinkles) and the lateral wrinkles
photo: Andrey Starostin, Shutterstock.com
INGREDIENTS
that appear at the ends of the lips
(marionette lines).
The active ingredient decreased the
volume of the nasolabial fold by 9.2%
compared to the start of the study (D0).
This result was 7.8 percentage points
(pp) better than that obtained by the
placebo.
The active ingredient reduced the
number of supralabial wrinkles by
45.6% compared with D0 and with a
significant difference of 19 pp compared with the placebo. The volume of
the wrinkles in this area decreased by
12.1% in the group treated with the active ingredient, while in the placebo
group this value increased by 10.7%.
There was therefore a statistically significant variation between the two
groups, with a difference of 22.8 pp.
In the case of lateral wrinkles, or
marionette lines, the number and volume of the wrinkles was measured. A
comparison of the decrease in number
and volume of these wrinkles in the
treated group when compared to the
placebo group showed that the efficacy
of the tested ingredient was statistically significant. The number of lateral
wrinkles for the group treated with the
active ingredient decreased by 58.8%
when compared with D0, with a significant difference of 19.2 pp compared to
the placebo. The active ingredient produced an 18.5% decrease in lateral
wrinkle volume, with a significant percentage difference of 17.9 pp compared to the placebo.
FOCUS: FACIAL CARE
Natural active obtained
from seeds of sesame
The vegetable based active ingredient increases the accumulation of
lipids in the adipose tissue, providing
a greater volume to the areas that have
lost their shape over the years. It perceptibly refills wrinkles and cutaneous
folds and has a potent volumizing effect on the lips, giving a rejuvenated,
attractive and relaxed face.
The reference list and additional information including
figures can be found on the Internet – see Internet panel
The differentiation process
During adipogenesis, the cells look increasingly less
like fibroblasts as they become more spherical. Large
changes in cellular morphology also take place
at this time, both in the cytoskeleton and in the extracellular matrix4.
This phenomenon is a process comprised of multiple
steps involving various transcription factors, which regulate
the activity of more than 2,000 genes and allow the development and differentiation of adipocytes 5.
Adipogenesis involves two different phases: The determination phase converts stem cells into preadipocytes and in
the terminal differentiation phase the preadipocytes develop
the characteristics of mature adipocytes. These, in turn,
acquire the cellular machinery necessary for the transport
and synthesis of lipids.
The key to this process is the level of transcription factors,
especially C/EBP (CCAAT/enhancer binding protein) and
PPAR (peroxisome proliferation-activated receptor). The
differentiation phase starts with the expression of C/EBPβ,
which increases the expression of PPARγ. PPARγ becomes
activated when bound to a ligand, stimulating the expression of C/EBPα, which in turn also increases the expression
of PPARγ, forming a positive feedback loop6. In this process
lipid droplets are formed in the cell cytoplasm, which
increase over time and fuse until one or two large lipid
droplets occupying a large part of the adipocyte are
formed.
Wrinkle refill
Fringe projection (PRIMOS) was
used to evaluate the increase in lip volume. As well as reducing wrinkles and
redness, the active ingredient also increased lip volume by 23.1%, in a way
that was clearly superior and statistically significant when compared to the
placebo, with a difference of 24.8 pp.
Hagen Döring
Area Sales Manager
Germany
Laura Gallego
Project Manager
Provital Group
Barberà del Vallès, Spain
[email protected]
[email protected]
www.provitalgroup.com
COSSMA 9 I 2014
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FOCUS: FACIAL CARE
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
International launches
photos: Mintel
This month Vivienne Rudd, head of Beauty and Personal Care
Insight at Mintel, presents a selection of innovative facial care
products.
Annemarie Börlind’s
pearls offer a
“second skin” effect
E
ncapsulated in gel, the ingredients of botanical caviar merge into an effective serum of An-
nemarie Börlind Natural Beauty Pearls
Clinique’s serum is designed
to provide custom repair
Pulpe de Vie’s organic
face cream for a daily
pinch of good mood
to fend off harmful environmental influences and free radicals. According
to the manufacturer, the combination
of biotechnological polysaccharides,
botanical caviar derived from macroalgae and hyaluronic acid creates a 3D
protective matrix on the skin’s surface,
offering a “second skin” effect. Anti-Pollution & Sensitive Serum designed to
protect from free radicals features
biotechnological polysaccharides to
form a natural protective shield on
skin; and ingredient complexes of
botanical caviar, hamamelis hydrosol
and allantoin to provide firming and
anti-inflammatory effects. The company has supported socio-ecological
projects for years.
Clinique Smart Custom-Repair
Serum is designed to respond to the
particular needs of the skin and provide custom repair to target forehead
lines and wrinkles, uneven skin tone,
past acne marks, smile lines, loss of
elasticity, dullness and dark spots,
while firming, contouring and improving radiance. It is developed with 37
patents and contains calming ingredients.
Cosy Cuddle Gentle Face Cream
Dolce & Gabbana’s moisturiser has a luxurious,
yet light formula to reinvigorate brightness
Dr. Andrew Weil’s
serum is designed
to improve the
skin’s resilience
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COSSMA 9 I 2014
from Pulpe de Vie is a moisturising and
soothing antioxidant care designed to
defend against free radicals from sun,
pollution, cold and wind. It features
bee balm, kiwi fruit water to repair the
skin, antioxidant and hydrating peach
fruit water, nourishing organic sunflower oil, antioxidant melissa to calm
irritated skin, repairing camelina oil,
softening mallow extract, antioxidant
olive leaves, Fucocert’s blend of hydrating polysaccharides, moisturising
hyaluronic acid, a mineral sunscreen
for UV protection; and a fragrance of
vine peaches. Its botanicals, sourced
from local producers, support local
economies and short supply chains.
The Dolce & Gabbana Aurealux
range of products is a skin care ritual to
reveal the skin’s naturally radiant, fullof-life appearance. The formulations
feature the Gold Flavo-Silk Tricomplex,
with gold silk sericin, Italian olive oil
extract and vitamin B3, to hydrate,
brighten and restore the soft feel of
skin. Cream-Radiance Moisturiser fea-
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tures a luxurious, rich yet light formula
to hydrate and to help reinvigorate
brightness, fade the appearance of
lines, and enhance the plump feel of
the skin.
The Dr. Andrew Weil range for Origins Mega-Mushroom Skin Relief based
on psychodermatology, is designed to
strengthen and soothe sensitive skin,
reduce redness, improve evenness and
strengthen the skin’s barrier after four
weeks, and offer a stronger skin after
eight weeks. The formulations feature
anti-irritant and antioxidant sea buckthorn berry to defend against free radicals and internal and external aggressors, antioxidant chaga mushroom to
reduce cellular damage, reishi to calm
the skin, and cordyceps to create cellular energy ATP, supporting the skin’s
barrier. Available as part of the range is
Advanced Face Serum, designed to offer relief for redness and sensitivity,
soothing and improving the skin’s
resilience to stress for a more radiant
appearance.
Additional information can be found on the Internet –
see Internet panel
Vivienne Rudd
Head of Beauty and Personal
Care Insight, Mintel
London, UK
www.mintel.com
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www.merck4cosmetics.com
Differentiate your bath & shower
products with Timiron®, Colorona®,
Ronastar® and Xirona® effects.
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MARKETING INGREDIENTS
New preservative trends
React fast,
with safe alternatives
photo: Alex011973, Shutterstock.com
Considering regulatory and marketing
requirements, cosmetic product preser vation within the range of approved
preservatives is becoming increasingly
difficult. Dr. Jan Jänichen of Dr. Straetmans sheds some light on the development and trends in preservative legislation
and further discusses safe alternatives
for the future.
W
hat is the right preservative
system for my finished cosmetic product? For a long
time now, this question has been neglected by most formulators. European
legislators created a list of approved
preservatives, called Annex V (former
Annex VI) of the EU Cosmetic Regulation. This list is filled with a wide range
of substances that have been raised
with respect to antimicrobial efficacy
and beyond that had little influence on
the physical parameters of the cosmetic product. This comfortable situation
has fundamentally changed in recent
years. Today, the application of a growing number of listed preservatives
has been restricted, due to their skin
irritating or sensitizing potentials. In
some cases preservatives were first restricted and then finally even banned
and deleted from the list.
A major obstacle for the development and listing of new preservatives
comes from the animal testing ban,
which is firmly anchored in the Cosmetics Regulation. All these circumstances are limiting the selection of
approved preservatives and are complicating the development of new cosmetic products.
Cosmetic products in general, especially oil and water emulsions, offer
microorganisms ideal growth conditions and therefore need to be preserved. Preservation is achieved by antimicrobial ingredients, whose proper-
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COSSMA 9 I 2014
Multifunctional additives with antimicrobial properties perform similarly to traditional
preservative systems
ties also bear a potential for undesired
skin side effects.
This is why, years ago, legislators in
Europe started to regulate the application of preservatives in cosmetic products. The regulation restricted the
choice of suitable preservatives to
those, whose safety was evaluated in
toxicological tests.
The approved preservatives have
been listed since 1982 in the respective
current version of the Cosmetic Directive/Regulation, together with restrictions regarding their application, if
necessary1. The current version of
the positive list is Annex V of the
1223/2009/EG Cosmetic Regulation.
The approval of new preservatives
in Annex V is a complex procedure, including extensive toxicological studies. Once approved, preservatives are
subject to supervision by local authorities. They collect data about observed
side effects and hand in this information to the “Scientific Committee on
Consumer Safety” (SCCS) of the European Commission. This experts committee evaluates the existing data and,
if necessary, recommends to restrict
the application of a preservative or
even to delete it completely from
Annex V.
Short life cycle on Annex V
The life cycle of a preservative on
Annex V can be illustrated using the example of Methyldibromoglutaronitrile
(MDBG). In 1983, after its admission,
MDBG was well-accepted amongst
cosmetic formulators, due to its reliable antimicrobial properties and
good price-performance ratio. In the
course of its popularity, MDBG was increasingly applied in cosmetic products. But its extensive use correlated
with an increased number of reported
cases of contact allergies. In 2005,
the SCCS recommended a restriction
of MDBG application to rinse-off
products, which in 2007 led to a general ban of MDBG and its deletion
from Annex V2.
For a range of other, even more popular preservative systems the SCCS has
issued recommendations which sooner or later could become legal regula-
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INGREDIENTS
Safe and future-proof
preservation
Cosmetic developers principally
have two possibilities of adjusting
their preservative system in a cosmetic
formulation. They can either alter their
existing preservative system according
to the new regulations or they exchange problematic preservatives and
rebuild their preservative system from
scratch. At the beginning, the latter solution is definitely more labor-intensive, but in a longer term perspective
some interesting marketing opportunities may arise. In the end, a smartly
designed preservative concept helps to
avoid bad press and prevents cosmetic
consumers from adapting to future
regulatory or public pressure.
That raises the question: What does
such a smart preservative system look
like? One way to circumnavigate legislative regulations of preservatives is
organic acids
Benzylalcohol
Phenoxyethanol
Methyldibromoglutaronitrile
Parabens
IPBC
Methylisothiazolinone
Formaldehydedonors
figure: Dr. Straetmans
tions. Another important factor determining the fate of a preservative lies in
the hands of public perception. Media
reports and theme-based internet
blogs can quickly discredit the reputation of a preservative in the eyes of the
consumer. In case of the parabens, this
happened even though scientific data
reaffirmed their safety. As a consequence, marketing departments of cosmetic companies are forced to react.
They pressure their product development team in order to find alternative
preservative systems for their products. Not surprisingly, under such pressure and in a short time range, many
formulators resort to preservatives,
whose skin intolerance has simply
been forgotten.
A good example is the renaissance
of Methylisothiazolinone (MIT). Since
the early 1980s, MIT, as a part of
Kathon CG, has been known as a contact allergen. Nevertheless, in the mid2000s, MIT was advertised intensively
as an alternative for the comparably
harmless parabens. Not surprisingly,
after a short period of marketing, MIT
received the title “Contact allergen of
the year”3. Ever since, the opinion in
the market has prevailed, that preservative systems should be in line with
current trends or – from a long term
point of view – in accordance with legal
requirements and that readjustment of
preservative systems has to be accompanied by competent partners.
MARKETING
Perspectives of selected preservative systems (green = good, red =bad)
to use multifunctional additives. Multifunctionals, in addition to their cosmetic properties, possess an antimicrobial activity.
Under the brand name Dermosoft
Dr. Straetmans offers a variety of reliable and secure multifunctional raw
materials and blends. Comparative
studies on the antimicrobial efficacy
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have demonstrated that these multifunctionals can serve as an excellent
alternative to listed traditional preservatives4.
However, the budget of a cosmetic
product doesn’t always allow for the
application of multifunctional additives. So the question is: What preservatives from Annex V are safe and can be
used with a clear conscience? Regarding their long-term perspective, a closer look at the science, legislation and
public perception of some of the regularly used raw materials can result in
the following picture.
IPBC and Methylisothiazolinone are
already heavily restricted in their application and formaldehyde-donors and
parabens suffer under a bad reputation
amongst the general public. However,
in comparison, organic acids and aromatic alcohols are quite safe in their
assessment.
For Phenoxyethanol first inquiries
for SCCS toxicological assessments
have emerged5. This could increase the
pressure to look for alternatives, even
for this widely-used preservative.
Formulators who wish to implement a long lasting system based on
listed preservatives, should search for
systems with a long history without
side effects and negative press reports.
Furthermore, to minimize the risk of
upcoming skin side effects, a decrease
in preservative concentrations, by exploiting synergistic effects of raw materials, is recommended.
Verstatil blends in which only listed
preservatives with a clean record are
implemented.apply to these goals.
They are combined with multifunctional additives in a way that synergistic effects occur. Lower possible preservative concentrations are the result,
which do not solely minimize the risk
of undesired side effects but likewise
decrease the cost of the final cosmetic
product.
The possibilities of cosmetic product preservation within the range of
listed preservatives are becoming
more and more restricted. The product
lines Dermosoft and Verstatil are two
reliable options to counter this trend
adequately.
The literature list and product information can be found
on the Internet (see Internet panel).
Dr. Jan Jänichen
Managing Director
Dr. Straetmans
Hamburg, Germany
[email protected]
www.dr-straetmans.de
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MARKETING PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
What chance do middle
sized companies have?
The heads of development at Kneipp,
Sebapharma and Dr. Babor explain why
it is so difficult for SMEs (small to medium
sized enterprises) to be competitive and
innovative.
Dr. Joachim Gottfreund,
departmental manager
responsible for R&D and
quality at Sebapharma:
SMEs must continue to
be innovative and take
advantage of short decision-making
processes, in order to bring new product ideas more rapidly and successfully to the market.
This requirement applies not only
to the domestic market but also to
overseas markets and exports.
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COSSMA 9 I 2014
Benefit from the know-how of research partners
Andrea Weber, head of
R&D at Babor: A special
requirement is certainly
the importance of being
legally, technically and
scientifically up to date.
It is in fact very time-consuming to stay
“on the ball” and to check what is really relevant.
is rinsed clear with the help of the market research! But he who dares is he
who wins.
Dr. Joachim Gottfreund of Sebapharma: SMEs are characterised by the fact
Why is it particularly difficult for SMEs
to bring innovative products to the
market?
Dr. Rainer Wohlfart, Kneipp: Prod-
that the means at their disposal are
used in a particularly efficient way. The
available resources are always limited,
and yet we have to face up to big
groups in a competitive environment,
and be selected by the consumer off
the shelf. Financially this means that
not only the development costs have
ucts that are really innovative, i.e. that
are something new in terms of quality
and real performance, can only be
achieved with the help of a competent
and assertive R&D department. This is
of course an immediately costly procedure and a lot of people would prefer
to invest their money in market research and promotion.
When market research says “good”
that applies only to average product
acceptability – not innovation. However as a rule this does not apply to innovative products. The most striking example is the area of fine perfumery.
Where here do we still find the individual and the particular? Here everything
When market research says “good”
that applies only to average product
performance – not innovation
photo: USBFCO, Shutterstock.com
The demands placed on
SMEs have grown enormously in the last 30
years, and there is no
end in sight for this development. I
fear that the very smallest companies –
by which I mean those who turn over
less than 10 million Euros – will have
no chance of survival in the future. And
that is a very sad position.
One is already surprised at the high
product quality, product efficacy and
innovation potential that SMEs offer
today. But small companies do not
have big marketing budgets. They can
only depend on the product performance itself. On the other hand smaller
companies can still take advantage
of short decision-making procedures.
Although we are the subsidiary of a
group, we can take advantage of short
decision-making routes at Kneipp. And
this is a real advantage if the company
wants to react quickly to a changing
market. I am very happy with this situation, which is surely one of the reasons why I have been faithful to the
company for almost 30 years.
photo: Denphumi, Shutterstock.com
What are the special demands placed
on SMEs in order to be competitive?
Dr. Rainer Wohlfart,
head of R&D at Kneipp:
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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
MARKETING
photo: Cosma, Shutterstock.com
to be recovered, but also budgets have
to be set aside for marketing.
Andrea Weber, Babor: We have little
time for internal research. Real research takes a long time, and does not
offer any guarantee of success. This
makes real innovation difficult. This is
why we work with research partners
such as the RWTH or the Fraunhofer
Institute. As a medium sized company
we can take advantage of this knowhow.
What ways are there to overcome these
difficulties?
Dr. Rainer Wohlfart, Kneipp: Good
contacts with technical colleges and
with professors at these places are the
real A to Z of it. And here I don’t just
mean contact with the relevant departments that immediately come to mind.
I also think here about psychologists,
molecular biologists or microbiologists, and generally about the possible
networking of different departments
that otherwise would have little, or no,
inter-departmental contact. And internally we have developed the idea of a
Kneipp high competence team. Today
this team consists of more than a
dozen scientists and the impressive
factor is the number of new points of
view and ideas that are generated by
this interdisciplinary contact. We have,
for instance, working with psychophysiologists, been able to make wellness
measurable. The resulting aromacological findings today make a major
contribution to the optimisation of our
products. We also offer topics that can
be covered by numerous doctor, master and bachelor works.
Our work on the skin barrier pointed
the way for the new trend towards
lower pH values in body care products.
Dr. Jürgen Blaak, the present head of
our “medicine” resource, was awarded
MAKE UP
RK
NEW Y3O
02
O
BOOTH N
Despite limited resources, faster than the competition
the young researchers prize by the German Society of Cosmetic Chemists.
Dr. Joachim Gottfreund, Sebapharma: We see the following ways to over-
come the typical difficulties:
1. Be quicker than he competition.
Take new routes to development
and marketing.
2. Define one‘s consumer group without any scatter loss.
3. Find targeted partners for a joint
effort right through the project.
Andrea Weber, Babor: It is important to be well informed all around the
market. Which research work is being
published, and how can we use it? A reliable network of information sources
is what is needed, for instance at ingredients exhibitions, and/or scientific
congresses and conferences such as
the annual IFSCC event.
Can you provide examples to show
that small and medium sized companies can also be innovative?
Dr. Rainer Wohlfart, Kneipp: Just
look at the diverse range of innovation
prizes that have been attracting companies in our sector for years. It is
amazing just how many prizes are
awarded to the SMEs.
Dr. Joachim Gottfreund, Sebapharma: The introduction of the Sebamed
Dry Skin range with phytosterols is a
good example. This new development
has shown that the phytosterol ingredient – an ingredient previously used
only in specific circumstances for dry
skin – enjoyed considerable market
success.
In addition a patent was awarded to
Sebapharma as part of the product development programme for high dosing
of phytosterols.
Andrea Weber, Babor: We were, for
example, one of the first companies to
use plant based stem cells in our finished products. The launch of Derma
Optimizers in the Doctor Babor range,
where an individual treatment is assembled depending on the condition
of the skin, was also such an innovation.
n
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MARKETING
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Star
of the Month
A bath additive
specially for men
I
t is really amazing. If you go through
the Internet looking for bath products for men you do not find much
except maybe for a 2-phase product
with the name of Beer Treatment. This
however is probably more a joke than a
serious product offer. The fact is that
men clearly spend a lot less time soaking in the bath than women do. According to Olivier Andrès, marketing
manager of Kneipp, 32 percent of
women bath at least once a week. For
men, however, this figure falls to only
19 percent. And just about 35 percent
of German men never bath!
But perhaps it was simply a problem of men not feeling really attracted
by the flowery or fruity aromas of bath
additives. Andrès is convinced: “Men
would spend a fair bit more time relaxing in the bathtub if they came across
the right product”.
The new aromatic body care bath
additive from Kneipp, with a totally
masculine fragrance, and which will be
on the market from September, will
surely help here.
Männersache, with its strong, bitter
aroma, has been specially created to
meet the needs of men. The strong aro-
photo: Kneipp
Personal care products for men: for years there have been forecasts that
this product category would suddenly take the market by storm and sell like
hot cakes .... but unfortunately it just hasn‘t happened. Or could it simply
be because there is, so far, simply nothing available in terms of men’s bath
products. This month our Star takes a close look at Kneipp’s Männersache
(A Men’s Thing) – a foam bath for the men of our world.
ma includes fresh cedarwood and gives
the product a natural aromatic note.
Furthermore it contains jojoba oil to
protect the skin from drying out.
While most bath additives from
Kneipp are brightly coloured and designed to attract the emotions, the design of this product is characterised by
simple elegance.
However the
packaging is anything but simple.
The expensive
sleeved bottle
with a visual
structured effect
of wood gives the
product a high
class look and
goes well with
the cedarwood
fragrance of the
AM
foam bath.
www.kneipp.de
Bathing is now a
“Men’s Thing”
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With Baycusan® C 1008 from Bayer, you can now easily incorporate a three-way advantage into your
future hair care products. Discover the amazing possibilities of this innovative polymer!
Protection
against heat, humidity
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Repair
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Styling:
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Curious? Visit www.bayercosmetics.com or contact us at [email protected]
P O LY U R E T H A N E S F O R C O S M E T I C S
COS1409_Idici_LuxePack_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 25.08.14 13:17 Seite 1
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PRODUCTION
INGREDIENTS
Silicones – Multitalented
for cosmetics?
photo: Graja, Shutterstock.com
Silicones can be combined
and expanded in a versatile
way as the basic ingredients
Around half of all cosmetics products contain silicones1. Prof.
Dr. Andrea Wanninger and Theresia Köhler from the Niederrhein
University of Applied Sciences take a look at what makes these
multitalented substances what they are today, based on new
technical developments.
I
n times of BB and CC creams the
“5-in-1” or the “48 hour” claims play
a multifunctional and particularly
valuable role as ingredients for cosmetics. No other type of compound
used in cosmetics is to be found in so
many different sectors as organically
modified silicones with their tailored,
combined effects.
Current cosmetic trends
at a glance
A trend analysis by Dow Corning2
has indicated that the four main
themes of Pro Studio (professional applications), Luminance (external glow),
Multi-Task and Jelly (new textures) will
dominate the market. Long lasting pigment-rich products will be the subject
of strong demand as well as those that
offer a lighter, even skin tone. Softfocus effects are becoming ever more
26
COSSMA 9 I 2014
each other in many ways as building
blocks, and also improve their own
functional features. They are also extremely versatile in their physical
form and characteristics. There are for
example volatile substances, liquid
emulsifiers, oils, waxes, powders, elastomer gels, resins, macro and micro
emulsions and dispersions.
New multifunctional ingredients
contain, for instance, silicone segments alternating with organic polymers such as Belsil P 1101 from Wacker, which when used for hairstyling offers good elastic curl retention and a
silky feel. The product is also highly
suitable for long-lasting nail polish. Or
a basic silicone framework is combined
with the chemistry of alkylglucosides
in the Belsil WO 5000 emulsifier, also
from Wacker. The hydrophilic moisturiser and skin conditioner EL-7040
Hydro Elastomer Blend from Dow Corning in 2013 won a prize for the best new
ingredient2. It produces a fresh, silky
feel, is suitable for use in make-up,
gives body to the formulation and is
relatively compatible with organic
ingredients.
Silicones and their critics
important and new, refreshing, fruity
textures are on the way.
For 2016 BASF sees trends of Colorful Self, Ancient Wisdom (beauty of
simplicity), Woman of Power (sensual
yet strong) and Third Act (celebrating
pro-ageing)3. This will all drive the requirements placed on the performance
of cosmetic products. Especially in the
make-up sector we can find everything
imaginable, from the “nude look” and
up to dramatic “metallic looks” and
futuristic nail polish colours.
In all of these trend-setting sectors
special silicones can be successfully
applied.
The “construction kit”
for a large number of jobs
The secret of silicones (or to be
more precise “polyorganosiloxanes”) is
in the fact that they can combine with
The fact is that synthetically produced silicones and hybrid materials
act as a spur for those seeking something new. Supporters of natural cosmetics nevertheless complain that
silicones are in fact artificially produced chemicals. Other people criticise the fact that, unlike hydro-carbon
compounds, silicones are not biodegradable, or only their organic components are.
Small amounts in the
product – but a big impact
On the other hand silicones are often used in only small amounts in a
formulation, and yet have an important effect on the quality of cosmetic
products.
Other than the limitations that are
part of the chemical structure of silicones, the particularly good surface
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PRODUCTION
activity and their suppleness and softness can be attributed even to the
simplest polydimethylsiloxane (dimethicone).
What other ingredients can promise
to offer a de-foaming, water-repellent
action and at the same time a reduction in the tackiness of emulsions, and
that calls for a concentration level of
only about 1%?
What type of emulsifier can, at concentration levels below 3%, best stabilise highly fluid lotions or ensure
that a sun cream stays stable at up
60 ºC? Among the organomodified silicones the Abil product range by Evonik,
is a very high performance range, as
seen in the Abil EM 180. This high
molecular W/O silicone emulsifier, for
warm and cold processing, is characterised by the fact that it needs only
a very low dose and yet covers a
very broad range of applications.
Even at high temperatures it remains
stable and is compatible with electrolytes and active components in the
product5.
Typical requirements
and claims
There is a constantly growing market for hair colorants, hair care and
styling products calling for modern
conditioners and styling aids. And of
course it is all about protecting hair
that is damaged by styling tongs and
UV radiation, aiming to keep its colour,
and for unstressed silky hair to hold a
nice style. Good wet and dry combing
performance, anti-static action of conditioners that do not weigh down the
hair, low stickiness, and rapid drying of
styling polymers, are all additional requirements that emulsions using
amino-functional silicones can fulfil.
PEG-free micro-emulsions like Abil
ME 45, which contain a hydrophobic
silicone quat, are suitable for clear
shampoos and conditioners. They are
easy to process and remain colourstable. Hair conditioners, hair and
body shampoos, leave-in conditioners,
styling products and hair colorants are
all applications for this product6. Wacker’s macro-emulsion Belsil ADM 6300
E offers improved combability and antistatic effects. Dow Corning’s CE-8411
Smooth Plus Emulsion has an action
that makes the hair feel “like a river of
silk”, and meets all of the requirements
with regard to gloss, colour protection
photo: Piotr Marcinski, Shutterstock.com
INGREDIENTS
Thanks to its good spreadability
silicone in a hair remover means
less product is needed
and effective conditioning. Silsoft*
AX-E from Momentive Performance Materials contains 45% of an emulsified
amino-functional silicone and is top of
the hair heat protection products7.
The specific advantage of silicones
in hair and skin care often lies in the
fact that not only do they perform the
task required, but also they have an immediate positive, sensory feel when
applying cosmetic products.
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Optimum pigment distribution, a
glowing skin and a silky softness are
essential features of facial care products. Silicone waxes like Evonik’s AbilWax range improve the spread of emollients and UV filters, silicone resin fix
fragrances on the skin, and silicone
elastomer blends offer exciting new
textures.
At the same time silicones like Dow
Corning’s EP-9801 Hydro Cosmetic
Powder also add a visual soft-focus ef-
fect because they can fill wrinkles and
also absorb oils and sebum.
Sun protection products should
have as high a protective factor with
the lowest concentration of filters.
They should also repel sand and be
waterproof, spread well and have a
pleasant skin feel.
Easy to apply spray products are
setting the trend. For sunscreens silicone waxes, emulsifiers and organo-
silicone gels, such as Velvesil* 034
from Momentive Performance Materials, are used.
Silicones in colour cosmetics play a
prominent role because here the demands for colour, hold and skin and
eye tolerance are all very high. The
products give volume and allow a longlasting effect. For lipsticks Belsil REG
1100 from Wacker is frequently used,
whilst silicone resins are used for
eye-shadow and mascara.
Phenyl-modified silicones such as
Dow Corning’s 556 Cosmetic Grade
Fluid or Belsil PDM 1000 from Wacker
reduce the white specks and tackiness
of AP/deo products. These silicones,
thanks to their high refractive index
compared with simple dimethicones,
give a light gloss and shimmer and can
hence be used mainly in colour cosmetics and hair care.
Dow Corning are following new
ways with silicones in the problem of
hair removal, above all in the Indian
market2.
Thanks to its better spreadability
silicone means less product to be applied, and after use there is a velvety
light skin feel.
The source material can be found on the Internet
(see Internet panel)
Prof. Dr. Andrea Wanninger and
B.Sc. Theresia Köhler
Niederrhein University of Applied Sciences
faculty of chemistry, Krefeld, Germany
[email protected]
www.hs-niederrhein.de
COSSMA 9 I 2014
27
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PRODUCTION NEW INGREDIENTS
Moisturisation for the skin
and hair
NEWS
Ingredients
Functional fillers against wrinkles
Merck I Ronaflair Flawless is a new functional filler from Merck
which works against wrinkles. The substance takes advantage of a
visual trick: spherical particles roll into and fill out the wrinkle, dispersing light evenly in all directions. The interplay of light and shadow
that generally highlights these imperfections is minimized to give the
skin an overall even appearance.
The new functional filler is composed of silica spheres coated with
titanium dioxide and iron oxides. The uniform shape of the substrate
and the sophisticated coating technology lead to an excellent soft
focus effect. Featuring balanced transparency, it maintains the skin’s
natural appearance. A pleasant skin feel provides a high comfort
level when wearing the product. Its ease of use is valued in powder
formulations as well as in foundations and emulsions.
Croda I The number of body care products that draw on the
“superfoods” concept has, in recent years according to Mintels
GNPD data base, more than doubled. The two new biopolymers
Hydrosativum P and Crodasone P come from the superfoods category and are both derived from the superfood Pisum sativum which
is popular for its high protein content, unique assortment of phytonutrients and antioxidant properties. Both biopolymers are rich in
glutamic acid, asparaginic acid, arginin and lysin, which have important properties for skin and hair.
The Hydrosativum P biopolymer supplies the skin intensively with a
strong moisturisation, it is anti-irritant and so is also suitable for scalp
care products. It becomes anchored into various types of hair of different ethnic origins, hydrates the hair in areas of varied air moisturisation and increases its flexibility to avoid hair breakage. The Crodasone P copolymer protects the hair’s cuticles from excess heat and
styling damage. Thanks to its complex polymer structure, as it dries
the ingredient forms a protective and conditioning film. The results of
tests and studies show that the copolymer in a spray formulation reduces hair breakage due to heat by about 49%, and in a conditioner
system by 38%.
www.croda.com
New biopolymers from the
superfood garden peas
photo: Merck
The uniform shape of
the silica spheres and
the coating technology
lead to the required
soft focus effect
photo: Sergiy Kuzim, Shutterstock.com
Expect amazing new things
from high-water formulations.
Despite everything you’ve been led to believe, high
performance and a smooth sensory feel are possible
in a high-water phase formulation. The secret is
using Air Products’ hydrophilic active complexes and
Deposilk® Q1 polymer. For performance data and guide
formulations, visit our website or call 800-345-3148
(U.S. only) or 610-481-6799. And see how an amazing
new generation of lower-cost skin-care products is
about to take flight.
tell me more
airproducts.com/takeflight
©2014 Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.
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Skin care with ginger
Symrise I Symrise has launched SymVital AR, a 100% pure and
natural extract from the ginger root. Within 3 weeks SymVital AR clearly
improves the structure of the skin, and unevenness in stressed skin.
It smoothes wrinkles and helps achieve an even complexion. The signs
of skin damage
due to sunlight are
reduced in less
than two weeks.
www.symrise.com
photo: Jiang Hongyan, Shutterstock.com
Natural extract of ginger root provides an even complexion
photo: iStock
Pigment dispersion made easy
Brenntag I The amino-functional silicone Mirasil ADMH 403
from Bluestar has, according to a new study when compared with
phenyl trimethicone and
cyclopentasiloxane, a better
oil dispersion
capacity.
This makes it
suitable for
colour cosmetics, sun care,
CC creams and
other creams
Thanks to its good oil dispersion capacity
with a high pigthe product is fine for colour cosmetics
ment level. The
product, which is of a medium viscosity and can be used over a
wide pH range, improves the waterproof nature of a formulation
and imparts a soft, silky feeling.
The DERMATEST® promise:
We take your
success personally.
Our clients expect performance. And they get more than
that. Because our dermatologists are not only experts in the
labora-tory, but also in the day-to-day routine of dermatological
practice. Experience that leads to better test results.
Dermatest® takes your success personally: the right test for
every assignment. Tailor-made for the purpose and with precisely the required level of performance to achieve best results
www.brenntag.de
Age-spot reduction
Dermatological-clinical application tests. Co-operation with other medical
www.rahn-group.com
w w w. d e r m a t e s t . d e
Active ingredient with
a lightening effect
stronger on age
spots than on the
surrounding skin
photo: Gts, Shutterstock.com
Rahn I Illumiscin is designed to eliminate age spots and to provide a bright skin. A balanced composition of oleuropein, vitamin C
and zinc PCA effectively fights against both pigments responsible
for the appearance of age spots – melanin and lipofuscin. Rahn
could already show that Illumiscin diminishes the size and reduces
the contour contrast of age spots. Now a new in-vivo study, carried
out in European winter and spring, reveals that following the application on the back of the hands the active has a lightening effect on
age spots under winter sun (depigmentation) and inhibited new pigment formation under spring sun (repigmentation). It could also be
demonstrated that Illumiscin controls age spots without lightening
the surrounding skin. The lightening effect on age spots is much
stronger than on surrounding skin areas, while conventional skin
lighteners reduce the
colour of the age spots
and the adjacent skin
simultaneously.
specialities (ophthalmologist, gynecologist, paediatrician, dentist etc.) | Simple
epicutaneous trials conducted in accordance with international guidelines |
TrichoScan hair analysis | Determining skin properties by means of confocal
laser scanning (VivaScope 1500 system) | Measuring the elasticity of the skin
(cutometry) | Determining the hydration and fat content of the skin (corneometry,
sebumetry) | Sun protection determination according to DIN and COLIPA |
Photo patch tests | Long-term (repetitive) epicutaneous tests | Safety assessment |
Measuring TEWL | Ultrasound examination of the skin (DermaScan C) |
Determining skin roughness using PRIMOS (optical 3-D assessment device) |
UVA protection in accordance with COLIPA standard | Human full-thickness
skin model for cosmetic testing of efficacy and tolerance
®
dermatest
R E S E A R C H I N S T I T U T E F O R R E L I A B L E R E S U LT S
Ta k i n g y o u r s u c c e s s p e r s o n a l l y
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PRODUCTION
TEST METHODS
Make-up removal
New methods for
efficient testing
M
ake-up removers are usually
supplied in the form of
cleansing lotions and cosmetic wipes. But do these cleansing
products perform as promised? Researchers at the Hohenstein Institute
have now developed a technical skin
substitute which allows close examination of the cleansing performance
of cosmetic products.
A skin substitute helps to test the cleansing performance of
make-up removers faster, more efficiently and at lower cost
than using expensive volunteer tests.
The sector of decorative cosmetics,
at about 1.4 billion Euros, is one of the
main contributors to the turnover of
the cosmetics industry. According to
the statistic portal Statista, around 13
million women used eye make-up
products in Germany in 2012. In order
to succeed in a competitive market a
whole range of new technologies and
innovations have been developed, and
are selling well in drug-stores – especially leave-on products which have
an improved degree of adhesion. But
make-up that adheres better is of
course that bit more difficult to remove. This requirement is a challenge
to cosmetic cleansing products.
A skin substitute –
just like our own skin
photo: Kuttelvaserova Stuchelova, Shutterstock.com
To test the cleansing effect of cosmetic products until now it was necessary to conduct a costly volunteer test
programme. This led the team of the
department Hygiene, Environment
and Medicine from the Hohenstein Institute to think about the idea of a new
test system which is based on a standardised technical skin substitute.
New test method to evaluate the efficacy
of make-up removers means that costly
volunteer testing is no longer necessary
30
COSSMA 9 I 2014
This skin substitute simulates the
physiological, mechanical and also
thetopographic properties of a healthy
human skin.
The surface of the skin substitute is
characterised by a rhombic skin structure, and the physiological parameters, such as pH value, moisture content and transepidermal water loss
(TEWL) are also similar to human skin.
The short name for the artificial skin
model HUMskin, is adapted from the
English words “human” and “skin”.
Comparison
of the cleansing effect
To analyse the cleansing performance of new cosmetic products the skin
substitute is marked with a defined
amount of slightly radioactively labelled make-up particles. Then the
make-up particles are subsequently removed by a special rubbing device using different cleansing products under
standardised conditions. With the help
of a scintillation detector the amount
of radioactively labelled make-up particles on the HUMskin is quantitatively
determined, so an objective assess-
Facial cleansing at a glance
Make-up, dirt and dust particles, as well as dead skin cells, are all stress factors for the skin,
and tend to favour the formation of skin impurities. If make-up particles are left on the skin
they block the skin pores. The skin can no longer breathe properly and the nightly regeneration
process is disrupted. In order to bring the complexion to a glowing state the next day the
face should be thoroughly cleansed. In particular when it is a matter of removing eye-liner,
eye-shadow and eyelash make-up the quality of the cleanser is most important.
Because the skin around the eyes is up to 8 times thinner than on the rest of the face,
and is so much more sensitive, the eye make-up used should be removed particularly carefully,
quickly and thoroughly.
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Eyeshadow
PRODUCTION
Liquid make-up
Negative control:
Cleansing
Cellulose tissue Cotton wool pad Positive control:
Cotton wool pad tissue with lotion with eye make-up with eye make-up Cotton wool pad
with water
remover
remover
with ethanol
photos: Hohenstein Institut
Make-up residue on the HUMskin (%)
TEST METHODS
Quantitative
evaluation of
the cleansing
effect of makeup removers
Technical skin substitute simulates physiological, mechanical and topographic
properties of the human skin
ment of the cleansing performance
can be made.
For an initial comparison the researchers selected a wet-wipe soaked
with cleansing lotion as well as various
textile cleansing pads which were
soaked in liquid make-up remover. The
selected cleansing products were then
tested against the HUMskin which was
prepared with eye-shadow and liquid
make-up prior to the cleaning test.
Both products were non-smear and
waterproof. The results clearly show a
difference between cleansing products. In case of eye-shadow a soaked
pad of liquid eye make-up remover exhibited a better cleansing effect of up
to 70% in comparison with a cleansing
pad soaked in lotion, for example. Furthermore the influence of the textile
material used to apply the lotion was
able to be shown. The cotton wool pad
performed better than the cellulose
cloth.
Efficient and cost-effective
Using this new cleansing test it will
be possible to evaluate the efficacy of
cosmetic cleansing products objectively under standardised conditions
without needing volunteers. This offers
cosmetic manufacturers, both in terms
of quality control and product development, an interesting alternative to
costly and time consuming volunteer
tests. Furthermore the technical skin
substitute opens up further possibilities of testing for answer a broad range
of other questions concerning the skin
surface.
Hence the HUMskin can be used also for microbiological analyses or performing odour testings on the skin. To
prepare the skin substitute for further
test areas the team headed by Prof. Dr.
Dirk Höfer is currently working on applying artificial hair to the skin substitute as well as on a simulation of a
sweating HUMskin model.
New test system to examine the cleansing
effect simplifies the development
of cosmetic products
Claudia Balluff
Scientific assistant in the
department Hygiene
Environment and Medicine at the
Hohenstein Institute for textile
innovation, Bönnigheim, Germany
www.hohenstein.de
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PACKAGING NEWS
NEWS
Product and packaging
concept go hand in hand
Packaging
Smallest flip-top cap tube
selected
photo: Albéa
Albéa I Dermophil recently selected My Little Cap, the industry’s smallest flip-top cap tube, for its Soin Universel face
and body cream sampler tube. It delivers the same look and
functionality as larger solutions, but in an ultra-compact diameter size that makes it an ideal choice for sample packs. In addition to the ergonomic benefit of
one-hand opening, the flip-topcap requires a high pull force,
which makes it safe for children.
The white, 10ml tube is 19mm in
diameter with two-colour offset
printing. The cap is green, and finished with a matte varnish. This
product has been awarded “Plastic Tube of the Year 2014” by the
European Tube Manufacturers Association
(ETMA), thanks to its
innovative character
and remarkable user
benefits.
Bakic I The Haematococcus pluvialis microalgae is a key
ingredient in the Astaxanthin cosmetics range by Bärbel
Drexel and in the packaging, design elements of the underwater world were heavily called upon.
The natural reddish colour of the active is seen not only in the
cosmetic product as a light reddish tint, but also in the strong,
shimmering red of the primary packaging, designed to be
customer-specific. The pigment-rich varnishing also protects
the natural, light-sensitive product. A hand-drawn illustration of
an under-water scene makes it even more clear that the active
is of maritime origin. A logo enhanced with silver foil stamping, and a design element of fish and algae support the premium product positioning.
www.bakic.com
photo: Dieter Bakic
PRODUCTION
www.albea-group.com
The cap’s high pull
force makes it safe
for children
Maritime product flair empathises with the packaging
Exclusive design efficiently produced
photo: Sappi
Sappi I Meteor is a polygonal sample pack which can be easily and automatically produced without expensive processing stages, just like
a four-sided carton. The specialist paper manufacturer Sappi used its Algro Design SBS intense white cellulose board. It has a rigid form, a
small transport volume and is able to be given a high quality decoration. A specially configured Gallus ICS 670 is, with its modular versatility,
able to respond to the increasing demand for economically designed and yet elegantly decorated packaging.
The printing, which was previously confined to larger print areas, should also look more
attractive in small runs based on the new production technique.
For sample packaging the whole range of decorating techniques was used, including flexo
modules, cold and hot foil stamping, two pigment inks, UV gloss and a tactile soft dispersion
material, plus blind embossing, die cutting and grooved finishes all in one work process.
The demands placed on the design of the carton included clear motif edges that could be
defined using cold and hot foil finishing, embossing and varnishing effects.
The special shape of the carton with its filigree, straight cut and inwardly bevelled sides,
reminiscent of a cut diamond, reveals the reflexive finishes to their best advantage.
The polygonal form ensures that the carton is very steady, allowing lighter, and less expensive, environmentally sustainable material to be used. This will perhaps get branded goods
companies to think again about transport and logistics costs when reviewing classical,
rectangular cartons.
Despite its unusual shape the package is erected, filled and distributed just like a normal carton – in large and small quantities and at all speeds. Viewing windows in the carton to enable
the consumer to have direct sight of the products are also available.
www.sappi.com
An efficient in line production and a maximum effective look,
are very much shown by this polygonal carton
32
COSSMA 9 I 2014
COS1409_32_News_Packagin_GB_COS1409_32_News_Packagin_GB 25.08.14 13:21 Seite 33
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PACKAGING NEWS
PRODUCTION
Stölzle takes silver
New two-chamber dispenser
Stölzle I At the international Starpacks Awards two of
Stölzle’s finished bottles were given silver awards for their design
and production technique: the Teint Visionnaire make-up
bottle from Lancôme and the Ultimate 38 YO whisky bottle from
Glenfiddich.
In terms of make-up bottles three items were combined in one
container: liquid make-up in a glass bottle, a concealer in the lid,
and a small mirror to help easy application whilst on the move.
Johannes Schick, CEO of the Stölzle Glass group commented:
“With both products the trick is in the complex mould construction, and of course also in the extravagant decoration.”
In addition to the Starpacks Awards three other products from
STO were nominated for the British Luxury
Packaging Award.
Gaplast I Airless Vario Duo is the name given to the
newly developed dual dispenser which is now ready for
series production. The two-chamber system allows the
quantity delivered by both components to be independently
adjusted. This means, in concrete terms, that the user can
freely choose how much of each
component is to be delivered at
each shot.
The required mix is easy to set
and then the pump stroke is selfadjusted. Because the product is
based on a normal standard
pump it is less costly than similar
products. The integrated spring
ensures that when in use not
so much pressure has to be
overcome, and that dispensing
is cleanly done.
www.stoelzle.com
photo: Gaplast
photos: IOM3
www.gaplast.de
Prizewinning design and product output
Easily adjustable
mix quantities
Packaging for convenience-oriented consumers gets recognition
photos: Meyer-Hentschel Institut
SilverPack 2014 I SilverPack*, with their “Polite Packaging” award, recognises packaging that takes account of the wishes and needs
of older consumers. The packages must be easy to open, reseal and dispose of, and the contents must be easy to dispense. In addition to
the winner (the Leerdammer cheese brand) the following packages were praised in the body care sector: Colgate Total from Gaba has a
hinged cap with a large recessed grip area which saves the user the problem of screw�
ing the cap open and closed. Drogeriemarkt DM and Mibelle had a carton for a cream
jar designed and produced by Carl Edelmann. Here a half-moon shaped strap displaying the message “Open here” shows the easiest way to open the pack without too
much effort.
*The award is a joint initiative of the Meyer-Hentschel Institute and the Feierabend online service for older people
www.silverpack.org
�
� Half-moon shaped flap shows
how best to open the pack
� Toothpaste tube with hinged cap
and large recessed grip eliminates the
problem of screwing open and closed
*)&%$#""! %##%
&"
#
##%"##%
! EN ISO 9001:2008
EN ISO 13485:2003+AC:2009
COS1409_34_Preise_GB_COS1409_34_Preise_GB 25.08.14 13:22 Seite 34
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SERVICES INGREDIENTS
Essential oils: Current import prices in €/kg
September 2014
Amyris, Sandalwood, West Indies
Anethol from star anis
Bergamot ”Reggio”
43.00 still stable but impending
slight shortage
18.00 somewhat easier
87.50 steady
Buchu leaf ”Betulina”
350.00–590.00
Cananga
67.00
Caraway, Balkan/Holland
38.50
Cassia, China
36.50–50.00
Cedarwood, China
15.00
Cedarwood, Florida/Virginia
23.00
Cedarwood, Texas
21.00
Celery seed, India
96.00
Citronella, China, 85/35%
18.00
Citronella, Java, 85/35%
19.00
Clove leaf, Madagascar
17.50–20.00
Coriander
95.00–110.00
Dill, Balkan
33.00–41.00
Eucalyptol, min. 99% (1.8 cineol)
17.00
Eucalyptus citriodora, Brazil, min. 75% 18.50
Eucalyptus citriodora, China, min. 75% 18.50
Eucalyptus, China, 80/85%
13.50
Eucalyptus staigeriana
25.00
Fennel, seed
33.50–62.00
Geranium, Egypt
105.00
Geranium, China
Ginger, India/Cochin
Grapefruit, white
Guaiacwood, Paraguay
Howood, min. 85%
Juniper berry
Lavandin abrialis
155.00
160.00
26.50–45.00
21.00
35.00–45.00
210.00–450.00
unchanged
steady
not much movement
not much movement
firm
firm
firm
firm
steady
steady
somewhat weaker
stable for the time being
tending to weaken
unchanged
not much movement
not much movement
unchanged
somewhat firmer
steady
unchanged, tending
to be volatile
very firm
stable at a high level
remaining firm
unchanged
very firm, good quality
continues scarce
stable
28.00 very firm prior to harvest,
almost sold out at source
Lavandin grosso
27.00 very firm prior to harvest,
almost sold out at source
Lavender, Bulgaria
75.00–95.00 sold out locally prior
to harvest
Lavender, France, 40/42%
130.00 very firm and scarce
prior to harvest
Lemon, Messina, winter harvest nom. 43.00 still firm and almost
unavailable
Lemon grass, Cochin, min. 75%
16.00 steady
Limette, distilled,
nom. 48.00 almost no availability
Mexico/West Indies
Litsea cubeba, China, min. 75%
18.50 practically unchanged
34
COSSMA 9 I 2014
Prices ar ex-works Germany,
customs cleared in the EU
Note: The €/$ exchange rate has
an impact on several prices and
at times has a greater impact than
percentage price changes at
source.
Menthol, China, BP/DAB
18.00 volatile, prices may
change day to day, local
deals are fairly scarce
Menthol, India, known brands
Mint (Pepp. arv.), China
Mint (Pepp. arv.), India
Nutmeg, Indonesia
87.00–102.00 volatile, no clear direction
Nutmeg, Sri Lanka
80.00–95.00 volatile, no clear direction
Orange, bitter
56.50 unchanged
Orange, Brazil
4.90–5.35 currently stable
Orange, Florida/Valencia, CP
5.25–5.70 currently stable with
firm undertone
Palmarosa, East Indies, min. 90%
35.00 still no clear direction
Parsley seed
165.00 unchanged
Patchouli, Sumatra extra
80.00 firmer
Pepper India
110.00–140.00 not much movement
Peppermint, American
65.00–78.00 still steady, firm undertone
Peppermint, Indian
25.00 clearly easier following
the harvest
Petitgrain, Paraguay
41.00 firm, scarce
Rosemary, North Africa,
nom. 45.00 scarce, costly
Morocco/Tunisia
Rosewood, Brazil
nom. 350.00 still small amounts
available. CITES!
Sage, Dalmatian, offic., 30%
75.00 unchanged
Sandalwood, India
nom. 2,800.00 very firm and legally
almost unavailable
Spearmint, Am. Native/Scotch 55.00–57.00 firmer
Spearmint, India, 60%
25.00 cheaper after a good
harvest
Spruce needle, Siberia
23.50 unchanged, attractive
Star anis, China
15.00 a little easier
Vetiver, Haiti
190.00 in principal unchanged
Vetiver, Java
120.00 stable
COS1409_Sepawa_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 25.08.14 13:23 Seite 1
61
www.cossma.com
SEPAWA CONGRESS
AND EUROPEAN DETERGENTS CONFERENCE
15 – 17 OCTOBER 2014 • ESPERANTO HOTEL • FULDA, GERMANY
Visit the largest home and personal care industry forum in Europe!
2100 + Participants
100 + Conference Presentations
220 + Exhibitors
http://www.sepawa.com/congress
COS1409_36_Formulierung_GB_COS1409_36_Formulierung_GB 25.08.14 13:24 Seite 36
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SERVICES
FORMULATIONS
In our October issue we will be focussing on formulations for anti-ageing products. In November it will
then be the turn of sprays and
foams. All of the information
published here has been carefully assembled; however neither the publishers nor the developers of these formulations
can accept responsibility for
their safety or accuracy.
T
he In-Shower Peeling Butter
from Zschimmer & Schwarz
sounds interesting. It also
sounds good in view of the success
enjoyed last year by convenience
products when a lot of in-shower
lotions were sold.
The Thermal Body Scrub by Kobo
should be equally successful, but more
in the sensorial field, where it has a
pleasant warming effect. On the other
hand, a massage effect combined with
a refreshing citrus fragrance is proInolex
Contact:
Sarah Plimpton Liebowitz
2101 S. Swanson St.
Philadelphia, PA 19148-3497, USA
Tel.: +1(0)215 320 1543
[email protected]
www.inolex.com
Profile:
INOLEX is a global independent
chemistry and ingredients company
that develops technology solutions
for leading companies in the personal care and lubricants markets.
INOLEX’s innovations are designed
around the public’s increasing demand for materials that are safe,
healthy, renewable and sustainable.
Formulas: – All Natural Rich Body Butter
– Gentle Cleansing Body Wash
– LexFeel® 350 Citrus Scrubble
– Natural Massage Lotion
– Nutritive Serum
Body care
We have put together for you in this issue a collection of formulations in the body care category – and not just pampering creams
but also cleansing peelings and others. Do you want to know how
to try out some of these formulations? Then you can access full
details of all the formulations as a free-of-charge download on our
website at www.health-and-beauty.com/qr00301*.
posed by Inolex with their LexFeel 350
Citrus Scrubble.
For decorative colour effects in the
body care sector there are Greentech’s
Pearl Silver Body Milk and a Glossy
Skin Serum from Lucas Meyer. It all
Downloads
qr00301
User name: cossma9
Password: care
started with facial masks, and the category is now expanding to include other
body care products. Floratech, for example, has put forward a Moringa Butter Moisturizing Body Masque. After
time to work it into the skin in winter
this could be a very airy undertaking.
And for anyone who wants to give
his imagination a free rein Seppic‘s
Fluid Universal Chassis is the exact
thing to use as a basic formulation.
*Access codes to download the formulations can be
found on the Internet panel on this page
Zen Massage Butter
Amedeo Brasca
Bombshell Body Cream
HallStar
Sprayable Body Lotion
BASF
Thermal Body Scrub
Kobo Products
Dance All Night Hydrating
Foot Care
Biesterfeld Spezialchemie
Shape & Toning Lotion
Lipotec
Foamy Fun 2 Phase Facial
Cleanser
C.H. Erbslöh / Beneo
Shower Gel with Olive Oil
Clariant
Effervescent Bubble
Bath Powder
Lubrizol
Glossy Skin Serum
Lucas Meyer
Detox Massage Body Cream Gel
CLR
Natural Body Sculpting Oil
Merck KgaA
Microemulsion Bath Oil
Dr. Straetmans
Body Lotion
Protameen Chemicals
Moringa Butter Moisturizing
Body Masque
Floratech
Leg Beautifying & Relaxing
Gel-Cream
Sederma
Body Oil-Spray Light Skin Feeling
GfN Selco
Fluid Universal Chassis
Seppic
Pearl Silver Body Milk
Greentech
In-Shower Peeling Butter
Zschimmer & Schwarz
356-14_EA_BF_connect_A4_engl 25.08.14 13:25 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
LOOKING FOR
A PARTNER?
MUNICH
BEAUTY FORUM
trade fair
tumn cosmetics
Europes No. 1 au
er 2014
25th, 26th Octob
l Trade Fair
na
io
Munich Internat
BEAUTY FORUM connect – your b2b networking &
matching tool!
The big PLUS:
쑺 Find national and international distributors and
business partners – fast and efficient
쑺 Global marketing via the BEAUTY FORUM media
network
쑺 Automatical matching of supply and demand
BEAUTY FORUM connect – free of charge for
exhibitors of 29th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH
FOR MORE INFORMATION JUST
SCAN QR CODE.
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 | 76133 Karlsruhe
Tel.: +49 (0)721 165-164 | [email protected]
www.connect.beauty-forum.com
COS1409_38_BF_Muenchen_GB_COS1105_10_Anti_Aging_GB 25.08.14 13:26 Seite 38
www.cossma.com
SERVICES EVENTS
BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH 2014
Business partners
sought and found
Have you already noted the dates for the 29th BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH, i.e.
October 25th and 26th, 2014? This event, the biggest autumn exhibition for
professional beauticians, will for the fifth time be at the Munich Exhibition
Centre. Make sure you are there and are suitably impressed by the innovative
products and ideas that will be on show by the 850 or so exhibitors and brands.
A
photo: Alexisdc, Shutterstock.com
longside the core exhibits of
cosmetics, nail care, foot care
and medical beauty there
will be a focus on topical themes
such as Wellness & Spa and antiageing. The current list of exhibitors is
now available at www.beauty-fairs.de/
muenchen.
The widespread range of information at the exhibition will be complemented with an extensive ongoing
photo: Monkey Business, Shutterstock.com
Companies using the on line matchmaking tool are
potential international business partners that
can be contacted ahead of the exhibition
Following the initial on line contact,
the first live meeting will be in Munich
38
COSSMA 9 I 2014
training programme of congresses and
workshops, and a whole range of
championships such as the German
Make-up Championship or the WorldSkillsGermany, where the competitors
will be selected for the global championships in Brazil in 2015.
At the Medical Forum workshops
there will be a variety of presentations
by, for example, Dr. Frank Rösken on
the topic of The right methods for correct areas of the face and Dr. Hans
Lautenschläger who will talk about
rosacea. In the Trend Forum Karin
Hunkel will discuss natural mineral
make-up and Dr. Reinhold Brunke will
present the topic of cosmetics and
modern active ingredients.
The international Business Forum
(IBF) is a specially developed programme aimed at promoting the business of international clients of the
HEALTH & BEAUTY Group. The system
is aimed to generate and make new
business contacts in the German and
European cosmetics industry. This
year, among other companies, we will
have representatives from ISO Italia,
Verniglass, Mystic Nails and Organic
Nails.
Networking with
BEAUTY FORUM connect
Are you on the look-out for new
business partners and are you planning to successfully expand your business nationally and internationally?
At www.connect.beauty-forum.com
companies that perhaps fit ideally into
your future plans will be presenting
themselves. If you have already registered – well here is a little surprise: as
a new service for you, because of the
strong demand, we will, alongside the
English version, set up the BEAUTY
FORUM connect on line platform such
that the German menu is also now
freely accessible. Currently the On line
Matchmaking Platform lists potential
business partners from 9 different
countries – more than 73 exhibitors/
buyers and 30 international visitors/
distributors.
Here is a foretaste of the advantages that you could get from a properly planned visit, with the help of this innovative matchmaking tool, to this
year’s BEAUTY FORUM MUNICH.
Let’s say, for example, that the Hungarian contract manufacturer PL Beauty Cosmetics is looking for a partner to
help in the contract manufacturing
business.
www.plbeautycosmetics.com
From Austria we have a visit from
the ingredients supplier Tolure Cosmetics. He is looking for international
licence partners.
www.tolure-cosmetics.com
Gran.cosmetic, also from Austria, is
the Austrian general distributor for the
Italian phytocosmetics company
Vagheggi, covering Germany as well as
Austria, where sales are limited to cosmetic salons and hotels with spa facilities. The company is looking for wellness hotels with spa facilities.
www.gran-cosmetic.com
Beautycare Emmen from the
Netherlands supplies professional
work clothing and is looking for new articles suitable for the cosmetics manufacturing sector.
www.beautycareemmen.nl
Busch & Co. produce rotary precision instruments and precision tools
for foot care and nail design, and are
looking for partners worldwide.
www.busch.eu
Pemakür is a sales company specialising in professional nail design
and pedicure products such as milling
and grinding equipment of all sizes,
materials, shapes, numbers of teeth
and grit sizes.
www.pemakuer.de
Dr. Schröder Cosmetica develops,
produces and sells cosmetic products
and also offers contract manufacturing
facilities.
www.dr-schroeder-cosmetica.de
So there is no time to lose. Register
now and start networking via www.connect.beauty-forum.com.
AM
COS1409_39_Kalender_GB_COS1409_39_Kalender_GB 25.08.14 13:27 Seite 39
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EVENTS
Fairs, conferences and seminars
2014
When?
What?
Where?
Who?
08.–12.09.2014
09.–10.09.2014
Intensive Course in
Dermato-Cosmetic Sciences
In-Cosmetics Brasilien
09.–11.09.2014
Creative Beauty
09.–12.09.2014
East Afripack
10.–12.09.2014
Sustainable Cosmetics
Summit
Seminar: Kosmetische Mittel:
Einfuhr, Absatz & Registrierung
in Russland und der Ukraine
Anti-Aging Conference
Brussels
Belgium
São Paulo
Brasil
Paris
France
Nairobi
Kenya
São Paulo
Brasil
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Vrije Universiteit Brussel
www.dermatocosmeticcourse.eu
Reed Exhibitions
www.in-cosmeticsbrasil.com
Beyond Beauty Events
www.cosmeeting.com
Ipack-Ima
[email protected], www.ipack-ima.com
Organic Monitor
www.sustainablecosmeticssummit.com
Forum Institut für Management
www.forum-institut.de
New Brunswick
USA
Stuttgart
Germany
Kiev
Ukraine
Princeton
USA
Kiev
Ukraine
Seeon
Germany
Sorrento
Italy
Bangkok
Thailand
Rome
Italy
London
Great Britain
Düsseldorf
Germany
Wien
Austria
Frankfurt a.M.
Germany
Happi
www.conference.happi.com
Deutsches Verpackungsinstitut e.V. (dvi)
www.verpackungsakademie.de
ITE Group
www.intercharm.kiev.ua
TRI/Princeton
www.triprinceton.org
KGS
www.innocosevents.com
Mandat
www.markenkolloquium.de
ECMA
www.ecmaprocartoncongress.com/
Informa
www.beyondbeautyasean.com
IFEAT
www.ifeat.org
GIC
www.beautytrendsconference.com/
APV e.V.
www.apv-mainz.de
easyfairs
www.easyfairs.com
DGK e.V.
www.dgk-ev.de
Bejing
China
International Society
of Cosmetic Dermatology
www.iscd.it
Health and Beauty Media Sp.z.z.o.
[email protected]
www.beauty-fairs.com.pl
11.09.2014
16.–17.09.2014
16.–17.09.2014
17.–19.09.2014
18.–19.09.2014
18.–19.09.2014
18.–19.09.2014
Verpackungsdruck
und -veredelung
InterCharm Ukraine
Applied Hair
Science Conference
innoCos CEE
18.–20.09.2014
Internationales
Marken-Kolloquium
Pro Carton
Congress
Beyond Beauty Asean
21.–25.09.2014
IFEAT Conference
23.09.2014
Beauty Trends &
Innovations
APV/IPEC Europe
Excipient Conference
Empack
18.–19.09.2014
23.–24.09.2014
24.–25.09.2014
24.–25.09.2014
26.–28.09.2014
Workshop: Bioverfügbarkeit
und Galenik von
Hautpflegeprodukten
International Congress
of Cosmetic Dermatology
27.–28.09.2014
BEAUTY FORUM & Spa POLAND
Warsaw
Poland
30.09.–01.10.2014
Packaging Innovations
Luxury Packaging
Powtech
TechnoPharm
Seminar: Nahrungsergänzung
Seminar: Werbeaussagen für
kosmetische Produkte
London
Great Britain
Nuremberg
Germany
Mannheim
Germany
Cologne
Germany
30.09.–02.10.2014
30.09.2014
30.09.2014
[ [
Berlin, y
German -8
r7
Oc tobe
2014
www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de
SERVICES
EasyFairs
www.easyfairs.com
NürnbergMesse
www.powtech.de, www.technopharm.de
BDIH
[email protected], www.bdih.de
Akademie Fresenius
www.akademie-fresenius.de
NATURKOSMETIK
BRANCHENMONITOR
The German market for natural & organic cosmetics Av
ailable
in Engli
• Quarterly reports
sh
• Best market coverage
• All distribution channels
Additional information at:
• Trends, forecasts, consumer insights www.naturkosmetik-verlag.de
COSSMA 9 I 2014
39
COS1409_40_ADV_Monaco_D+GB_COS1409_40_ADV_Monaco_D 25.08.14 13:27 Seite 40
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EVENTS
ADVERTISEMENT
2014 EDITION LUXE PACK MONACO
27th Edition of
Luxe Pack Monaco
F
or its 27th edition, the premier
show for creative packaging will
be the exclusive platform for all
professionals in the packaging industry.
It will bring together a panel of 400
exhibitors, leaders in their particular
fields of expertise, selected according
to the criteria of creativity, innovation,
materials representativeness and
know-how expertise.
Benchmark trade fair for all packaging professionals, this 27th edition
also promises to be the hot ticket for
meeting and networking, providing a
spark for inspiration and creativity on
all markets making packaging central
to their strategy : beauty products, fine
wines, spirits, foodstuffs, jewellery, tobacco, writing materials, and so on.
LUXE PACK MONACO is constantly
looking for companies with expertise
and / or working materials that can
answer the high demands of luxury
Luxe Pack Monaco: A selected panel of exhibitors
40
COSSMA 9 I 2014
brands, and be a source of cross inspiration.
Visitors at LUXE PACK MONACO
2014 will see 32 companies exhibiting
for the first time, nearly 10% of the
total.
The designer Patrick Jouin will be
2014 LUXE PACK Monaco’s Guest of
Honor. He will take to the stage on the
afternoon of Monday 27 October at
3.00pm, in a discussion with AnneMarie Sargueil, President of the French
Design Institute:
“Luxury is all about sensation. We
are simply designing experience.
The pack is halfway between culture
and market; here we find the focus of
the design issues: coming up with the
right response, in all its subtlety, between the constraints of the senses
and the constraints of beauty.
I keep my senses attuned for
surprises, for asking questions about
Photo credit: Benoit Linero
LUXE PACK MONACO 2014 will be held from Monday 27th
to Wednesday, October 29th at the Grimaldi Forum.
Patrick Jouin, Guest of Honor
cultural differences, for travel, for
curiosity,
l making everyday gestures redolent
of luxury,
l keeping aesthetics alive, always being ahead of the curve, with the constraints of sustainable development,
we need to strike a balance between
aesthetics and ethics.”
Innovations and
Technologies
LUXE PACK MONACO is more than
ever, the show where manufacturers
unveil their new products; dedicated
spaces, round tables and various
events will highlight these new ideas
and provide inspiration.
The LUXE PACK forum innovation
for a global view of industrial progress
and innovative solutions, in dedicated
showcases.
For the first time at LUXE PACK
MONACO, there’s a brand-new roundtable for discovering the newest
technologies applicable to packaging.
A discussion with manufacturers about
"Smart Packaging", a fruitful topic addressing the latest – increasingly active
and intelligent – packaging techniques, capable of providing ever more
information or equipped with ever
more functionality.
COS1409_40_ADV_Monaco_D+GB_COS1409_40_ADV_Monaco_D 25.08.14 13:28 Seite 41
www.cossma.com
ADVERTISMENT
Backed by an expert jury, LUXE
PACK salutes the environmental initiatives of the exhibitors.
The most innovative and environmentally-friendly packaging solutions
will therefore be in line for the
LUXE PACK In Green Prize.
Inspiration also in packaging design trends analyzed by experts
LUXE PACK trends observed or in the
LUXE PACK ESSENTIALS book will be
given to visitors after show not to miss
its abundance of creative ideas.
Because 3D printing upsets the industrial world by opening new perspectives, LUXE PACK MONACO 2014
wishes to present the potential of 3D
print technologies.
Most sectors are affected and luxury professionals are curious to understand the opportunities and challenges of this technology. They can get
answers by attending the roundtable
on Tuesday October 28th.
Else, 3D PROD invites visitors on
“3D PRINT AREA” during the 3 days of
the show, with a 3D printer to illustrate,
in the most interactive way, all possibilities for the packaging industry.
A rich programme of
conferences and exclusive
multi sensory experience
LUXE PACK MONACO 2014 presents a rich program of 20 or so lectures
featuring exclusive testimonies, topical exhibitions, trend books, special
guests from Guerlain, Cartier, PernodRicard, Dior… Responsible purchasing, luxury culture in China, trends and
forecasts 2009-2019, the impact of religions on luxury consumptions, digitalizing packaging among many other
topics will be addressed during the
3 days of the fair.
EVENTS
Sensitive to the importance of the
sensual in packaging design, LUXE
PACK MONACO, in partnership with
MYRISSI, offers you an unparalleled
multi-sensory experience. The innovative approach proposed by MYRISSI
represents a genuine revolution in
packaging development, through past
mastery of the complex phenomenon
of the "transfer of sensations".
LUXE formulation
LUXE PACK continues to expand
and is inaugurating a new hall
dedicated to formulation and fullservice for perfumery-cosmetics:
LUXE FORMULATION.
With the establishment of new
regulations, technical developments,
changes in consumer behaviour, a
revolution is on the way, giving more
interaction between packaging and its
content.
LUXE FORMULATION ties in with
this approach and offers professionals
in the perfumery-cosmetics industry a
digest of information, by way of workshops and lectures, and brings together in a dedicated space (Hall Gênois) a
comprehensive gathering of know-how
and expertise across all fields: formulation, standard or contract manufacturing, contract packaging, filling,
laboratories, regulations, tests and
measurements,
Exhibitors space combined to a
program of round tables and plenary
lectures alternating with very practical
workshops offered by the exhibitors
will undoubtedly give visitors a new
perspective of this sector.
LUXE PACK MONACO 2014 and
LUXE formulation will again provide
visitors, a rich content and give decision makers the key information for
LUXE Formulation: A new hall dedicated to formulation
and full-service for perfumery-cosmetics
Gathering of know-how across all fields:
From formulation, to contract services,
tests and measurements
developing their future bestsellers; the
whole of Monaco will beat to the
rhythm of LUXE PACK MONACO during these three intense days, as a
worldwide networking platform for all
professionals of the packaging sector.
Plenty to see
LUXE PACK MONACO 2014
When:
Luxe Pack is the premier show for creative packaging
From Monday, October 27th
to Wednesday, October 29th
Website: www.luxepack.com
COSSMA 9 I 2014
41
COS1409_42_IBF_GB_COS1409_42_IBF_GB 25.08.14 13:28 Seite 42
www.cossma.com
SERVICE
XB2B-EXCHANGE
Go to
B2B Exchange: Find your
business partners of tomorrow today!
COSSMA and BEAUTY FORUM will help you to build new
business contacts.
All our business partners can use this "International B2B
Exchange".
Have a look at the entries below now and
find your business partner of tomorrow today!
Further information: see www.cossma.com/b2b-exchange
(a =NEW!)
www.cossma.com/
b2bexchange
for more information
about suppliers and
their products
Wish to export their products
abalico
Weinheim, Germany
Contact: Mr. Rüdiger Vogel
[email protected]
www.abalico.de
Products: Cosmetic products
for hand and nail
wish to export to: A, CH, F, E, GB
Akzent direct GmbH
Gelnhausen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Reiner Schmidt
[email protected]
www.akzent-direct.com
Products: Nail Design, Permanent Make-Up
wish to export to: Asia, AUS, Africa, Near East,
P, E, I
Beauty Line Consulting
Ubstadt-Weiher, Germany
Contact: Mr. Janos Stegena
[email protected]
www.belico.de
Products: skin and body care products,
private label, bulk
wish to export to: worldwide
beauty lumis GmbH
München, Germany
Contact: Ms. Angela Frommer
[email protected]
www.byonik.net
Products: 2-Frequenz-Simultan- Meso-Laser-and
cosmetic products
DR. BELTER COSMETIC GMBH
Braunschweig, Germany
Contact: Ms. Mira Fischbach
[email protected]
www.BELTER.de
Products: skin and body care cosmetics
GERTRAUD GRUBER
KOSMETIK GmbH & Co.
Rottach-Egern/Tegernsee, Germany
Contact: Mr. Roland Schäfer
[email protected]
www.gertraudgruber.de
Products: Wirkstoffaktives holistisches Produktund Anwendungskonzept auf Naturbasis
der 1. Beautyfarm Europas.
Klapp Cosmetics GmbH
Guderma GmbH
Bergkamen, Germany
Contact: Mr. Manfred Wolf
[email protected]
www.fusspunkt.de
Products: Skin Care Products for dry and
very dry skin
42
COSSMA 9 I 2014
Hessisch Lichtenau, Germany
Contact: Mr. Fernando Duarte
[email protected]
www.klapp-cosmetics.com
Products: Cosmetic products,
SPA collection series
wish to export to: EU, S. America, Asia
NEOVITA COSMETICS
Heitland & Petre International
GmbH (ROSA GRAF)
Celle, Germany
Contact: Ms. Saskia Schneider
[email protected]
www.heitland.com
Products: skin care products,
wellness & spa treatments
House of Melchiorsen
Naestved, Denmark
Contact: Ms. Annelise Langhorn
[email protected]
www.susanne-melchiorsen.com
Products: Natural Skin Care products and herbal
teas – made of biodynamic herbs from
owned herbs-garden.
Ingeburg Praxis-Cosmetic GmbH
Dr. GRANDEL GmbH
PHYRIS Premium Spa Cosmetic
Augsburg, Germany
Contact: Mr. Jürgen Geisler
[email protected]
www.grandel.de
Products: Skin care products,
wish to export to: GB, GUS, TR, TW, S. America
IONTO-COMED GmbH
Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Export
[email protected]
www.ionto.de
Products: cosmetic and footcare technology
Karlsruhe, Germany
Contact: Ms. Renate Karner
[email protected]
www.praxis-cosmetic.de
Products: Skin and Body Care
Cosmetics, Ampoules,
Decorative cosmetics
wish to export to: EU + worldwide
Mauer, Germany
Contact: Ms. Karina Grimm
[email protected]
www.neovita.de
Products: Premium Skin Care products for
professionals
Dr. med Christine Schrammek
Kosmetik GmbH & Co. KG
Essen, Germany
Contact: Ms. Birgit Schmitz
[email protected]
www.schrammek.de
Products: Hautpflegeprodukte, Peelings
wish to export to: I, MAL, RA, UA, ZA
TANA Cosmetics
Bielefeld, Germany
Contact: Egypt-Wonder GmbH+Co.KG
Mr. Ronald Fortmann
[email protected]
www.tana-cosmetics.com
Products: Colour cosmetics,
Cosmetic products for self tanning
wish to export to: E, F, DK, S
COS1409_43_ST_Anzeige_GB_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 25.08.14 13:29 Seite 43
www.cossma.com
Current job vacancies
Are you a specialist in a certain field? Do you know
the cosmetics industry like the back of your hand?
Are you a marketing professional,
an experienced formulator
or a well-rounded technologist? And are you looking
for new challenges in your work?
Then take a look at the vacancies on this page –
maybe your dream job is there!
There are more interesting jobs advertised on the
COSSMA web site at
www.cossma.com/Jobs
Go to
for more information
about the job vacancies
on this page
www.cossma.com/
Jobs
Wir sind ein unabhängiges Unternehmen, das sich seit mehr als 20 Jahren mit der
Entwicklung kosmetischer Produkte beschäftigt (Schwerpunkt: Reinigung und Pflege von
Haut und Haar). Zu unseren Kunden gehören mittelständische Unternehmen mit Marken
im gehobenen Preissegment. Als Dienstleister ist die Kundenzufriedenheit der Maßstab
unseres täglichen Handelns.
Zum nächstmöglichen Termin suchen wir eine/-n
Leiter/-in Produktentwicklung Kosmetik
Sie haben:
l Ein abgeschlossenes Studium (Diplom / Master) in Biologie, Biochemie, Chemie
oder einem ähnlichen Fach
l Idealerweise eine Promotion
l Einige Jahre Berufserfahrung im Bereich Produktentwicklung Kosmetik
l Erfahrung in Mitarbeiterführung
l Gute Englischkenntnisse in Wort und Schrift
l Sicherheit im Umgang mit MS-Office (Word/Excel)
Ihr Aufgabengebiet umfasst:
l Die fachliche und disziplinarische Leitung der Produktentwicklung vom
Rezepturentwurf bis zur Produktionsreife.
l Sie sind verantwortlich für die termingerechte Realisierung und koordinieren
die Abläufe zwischen Entwicklung, Projektmanagement, Materialwirtschaft und
Produktion.
l Ihr Fachwissen und Ihre soziale Kompetenz machen Sie zu einem professionellen
Ansprechpartner für die Mitarbeiter/-innen aus den Bereichen Produktentwicklung,
Projektmanagement und Materialwirtschaft.
l Sie besitzen die Fähigkeit, komplexe wissenschaftliche Erkenntnisse in allgemein
verständliche Texte umzuwandeln (z.B. für Produkthandbücher, Broschüren).
l Gelegentliche allgemeinverständliche Vorträge (auch in englischer Sprache)
vor Außendienstmitarbeitern und Importeuren unserer Kunden runden Ihr
Aufgabengebiet ab.
l Regelmäßige Fortbildungen (Fachliteratur, Messebesuche, Kongresse) sind für
Sie selbstverständlich.
l Zielorientierte Führung und Weiterentwicklung der unterstellten Mitarbeiter/-innen.
Wir bieten:
l Gründliche Einarbeitung durch den derzeitigen Stelleninhaber
l Langfristige berufliche Perspektive
l Strukturierte Arbeitsabläufe
l Kooperative Mitarbeiter/-innen
l Modern eingerichteten Arbeitsplatz
l Offene und vertrauensvolle Unternehmenskultur
Wenn Sie sich angesprochen fühlen, dann zögern Sie nicht, uns Ihre aussagefähigen
Bewerbungsunterlagen zuzusenden mit Angabe des frühestmöglichen Eintrittsdatums
und Ihrer Gehaltsvorstellungen.
DR. SACHER KOSMETIK GMBH l z. Hd. Frau Hütsch l Am Münsterwald 9 l 52159 Roetgen
Tel. (0 24 71) 13 42 0 – 0 l E-Mail: [email protected] l www.dr-sacher-kosmetik.de
5
Trends
good reasons for reading
Statements
!
Innovation
Discover today your competitors plans for tomorrow
1
COSSMA! On-line and right up to date
3
COSSMA! free e-paper
2
COSSMA! Search and download
from our archives
4
5
COSSMA! Free-of-charge small ads
(value 156 Euros)
Order today, at www.cossma.com/subscription
10 issues a year
192 Euros (Germany)
198 Euros (outside Germany)
via the hotline: +49 (0)721 165 131
Health and Beauty Germany GmbH Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany
[email protected] Tel: +49 (0)721 165-131 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103
COS1409_44_GB_Einstieg_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB_Einstieg 25.08.14 13:30 Seite 44
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Suppliers Guide Alphabetical Listing
On the following pages you will find a selection of suppliers to the cosmetics
industry. The listing is in alphabetical order based on the English section
headings. To make it easier for you to find what you are looking for we have
listed the German section headings below, with their English equivalents.
A detailed supplier listing can be found starting on page 45ff. You can also
find a full overview, with a search function, at www.cossma.com/guide
Should your company be listed here?
Send an e-mail to [email protected]
We will be glad to send you details of terms and prices.
German Heading
see
Abfüll- und Verschließmaschinen
Adeps Lanae
Ätherische Öle
Airless Systeme
Aloe Vera
Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse
Ampullenabfüllung
Avocadobutter
Avocadoöl
Filling and Crimping Machines
Adeps Lanae
Essential Oils
Airless Systems
Aloe Vera
Aluminium Seal Closures
Ampul Filling
Avocadobutter
Avocado Oil
Boragesamenöl
Borage Seed Oil
Chitosan
Chitosan
Dermatologische + klinische Tests
Dichtemessung von Cremes,
Flüssigkeiten und Aerosolen
Dermataogical + Clinical Tests
Density Measurement of
Creams, Liquids and Aerosols
Etiketten
Etuis für die dekorative Kosmetik
Labels
Pouches a. Cases f. Colour Cosmetics
Fettsäure-Ester Flüssigkeitszerstäuber und Sprühpistolen
Formen und Kunststoffteile
Fatty Acid Esters
Dispensers and Trigger Pumps
Molds and Plastic Parts
Glittereffekte
Glitter Effects
Hagebuttenkernöl
Hyaluronsäure Natrium
Johanniskrautöl Hacoba
Jojobaperlen
Jojobaöl
Karmin
Kosmetik-Farbstoffe
Kosmetik-Rohstoffe
Kosmetik Spatel
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae),
Wollwachs, -alkohole
pestizidarm
Lohnabfüllung
Lohnherstellung Arzneimittel
und Kosmetika
Lohnherstellung und Verpackung
Makadamianussöl
Mandelöl
Mischkugeln für Aerosole
Molch-Reinigungssysteme
Nachtkerzenöl
Oleochemicals
Olivenbutter
Olivenöl
Parfümöl
Pflanzenöle
Pumpen für die Produktion
Rizinusöl
Rose Hip Oil
Hyaluronic Acid Sodium
St. John’s Wort Oil /Hypericum Oil
Jojobabeads/Grains/Pearls
Jojoba Oil
Carmine
Cosmetics Colorants
Cosmetics Raw Materials
Cosmetics Spatulas
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae),
Low Pesticide Wool Wax,
Wool Alcohols
Contract Filling
Contract Manufacturing
Pharmaceuticals and Cosmetics
Manufacturing + Packaging
Macadamia Nut Oil
Almond Oil
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Pig Clearing Systems
Evening Primrose Oil
Oleochemicals
Olivebutter
Olive Oil
Perfume Oil
vegetable oils
Pumps for the production process
Castor Oil
Sesamöl
Software
Sheabutter
Spraysysteme
Sterilisation
Sesame Oil
Software
Shea Butter
Spray Systems
Sterilization
Verpackungen
Packaging
Weizenkeimöl
Wirkstoffe für Kosmetika
Wollwachs
Wheat Germ Oil
Actives for Cosmetics
Wool Wax
✂
✂
ADVERTISING FAX-SERVICE:
Fax +49 (0)721 165-227
Start winning tomorrow’s customer today
with your entry in the suppliers’ guide
width of column:
price per mm height:
for a period of:
advertising deadline:
43 mm
€ 3,10
1 year
10th day of each month before
publication
❑ Yes, I wish to place a firm order for an entry in the suppliers’
guide at a price of € 3,10 per column mm for each entry.
You will receive the text for my ad with separate fax.
Company:
Please send me an order confirmation for the following ad:
Category/ies:
Height i. mm:
To be first published in issue:
❑ 10/2014
❑ 01-02/2015
Contact:
❑ black and white
❑ 11/2014
❑ 12/2014
❑ 03/2015
❑ 04/2015
❑ 1 year
❑ test: 3 month
Street, P.O. Box:
For a period of:
Post Code, City:
❑ Yes, I agree that you may keep me advised of industry news by phone
(including mobile phone), by e-mail, or in writing!
Country:
Phone:
Fax:
Date, Signature
44
mm
❑ 4 colour (Euro scale)
COSSMA 9 I 2014
COS1409_45_BQ_GB_COS_BQ_1107_08_GB 25.08.14 13:31 Seite 45
www.cossma.com
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Adeps Lanae
Adeps Lanae
Carmine
Karmin
H. Erhard Wagner GmbH
28701 Bremen, Postfach 77 01 20
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
www.wagnerlanolin.com
Aerosol Mixing Balls
Mischkugeln für Aerosole
SiLibeads
Contract Filling
Lohnabfüllung
C.E. ROEPER
SERVICES
+ Packaging
Lohnherstellung + Verpackung
Hans-Duncker-Straße 13 . 21035 Hamburg
Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35
E-Mail: [email protected] . http://www.roeper.de
Certification
Zertifizierung
®
glass balls for
aerosol sprays
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone(++49)9277-99410·Fax(++49)9277-99499
www.sili.eu
Aloe Vera
Aloe Vera
C.E. ROEPER
Hans-Duncker-Straße 13 . 21035 Hamburg
Tel. 0 40 / 7 34 10 30 . Fax 0 40 / 73 41 03 35
E-Mail: [email protected] . http://www.roeper.de
Aluminium Seal Closures
Alu-Siegel-Verschlüsse
Consulting
Beratung
We take care of
your cosmetics.
Your service provider in the
healthcare industry:
www.diapharm.com
Containers f. transport &
storange
Lohnabfüllung
Zellaerosol GmbH
Wiesenstraße 13
D-79669 Zell/Wiesental
Telefon 0 76 25 / 92 53-0
Telefax 0 76 25 / 92 53-14
Internet: www.zellaerosol.de
Wir haben uns spezialisiert auf das
Herstellen, Füllen und Verschließen von
✓ Standardsachets
✓ Zeitschriftensachets
✓ Onpacksachets
✓ Konturensachets
✓ Tüchlein
Lohn-Pack
K.A.Wolf GmbH & Co. KG
Dorfwiesenstraße, 61197 Florstadt
Tel. 0 60 41 / 82 28 - 27, Fax 0 60 41 / 47 76
Mail: [email protected]
GANZ EINFACH:
LEISTUNG
HERSTELLEN
von Salben, Gelen, Cremes, Zahnpasta,
Liquida, Pulver; Suppositorien in PVCoder Aluzellen.
ABFÜLLEN
in Alu-, Kunststoff-, Laminattuben,
Tiegel, Flaschen, Beutel, Dosen.
KONFEKTIONIEREN
Unsere IBC Container lagern in strategisch
gelegenen Depots in Großbritannien, Frankreich, Deutschland, Niederlande, Spanien,
Skandinavien und USA, um den Bedarf
unserer Kunden in Europa zu decken.
TPS Rental Systems Ltd . www.tpsrentalsystems.de
Mergenthaler Str. 27 . 48268 Greven
Tel. +49 2571-9929571 . Fax -9929572
Alu-Siegelverschlüsse
Alu-Folien
• für Glas- u. Kunststoff-Behälter
• in Kleinst- u. Massenauflage
• in jeder Größe zu jedem Zweck
• Qualität seit 1957
DERSCHLAG GmbH & Co. KG
Stanzerei und Folienverarbeitung
57319 Bad Berleburg
Tel.: 0 27 51/20 27, Fax: 0 27 51/20 25
Advertising
Hotline
+49 (0)721 165-144
Please note:
10/2014
Publishing date:
06.10.2014
von pharmazeutischen, kosmetischen,
chemischen Produkten, Nahrungs- und
Genußmitteln.
DOKUMENTIEREN
GMP-gerechte Kontrolle und Dokumentation. Modernes Labor mit
Mikrobiologie.
Advertising deadline:
10.09.2014
Please do not
hesitate to contact us if you
have any further questions
Call: Dorothea Michaelis
+49 (0)721 165-144
WAGENER & CO
GANZ EINFACH : LEISTUNG.
Wagener & Co GmbH
Postfach 1645 · 49516 Lengerich
Telefon 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 0
Telefax 0 54 81 / 8 06 - 200
Internet: www.wagener-co.de
COSSMA 9 I 2014
45
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Pharmac. + Cosmetics
Cosmetic Ingredients
Kosmetik-Rohstoffe
Glitter Effects
Glittereffekte
SiLiglit
innovativ
kompetent
zuverlässig
®
Entwicklung, Bulkherstellung, Konfektionierung
Aerosole, Kosmetik, Pharmazeutik/OTC,
Medizin- und Haushaltsprodukte
Trichema AG
Lättichstrasse 4
Postfach 1063
CH-6341 Baar
Tel 0041 (0)41 768 0202
Fax 0041 (0)41 768 0200
[email protected]
www.trichema.ch
SIGMUND LINDNER GmbH
Phone (++49) 9277 99410 · Fax (++49) 9277 99499
E - M a i l : s i l i @ s i g m u n d - l i n d n e r. c o m
www.sili.eu
„Danke
für alles!“
Polyurethanes, film forming polymers
and sensory additives for your
cosmetic formulations
Alsheimer Straße 1
67586 Hillesheim - Germany
Tel.: +49 (0) 6733 9470-0
www.rationator.com
[email protected]
www.bayercosmetics.com
baycusan
®
Cosmetic Spatulas
Kosmetik-Spatel
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
Tel.: 0800/50 30 300 (gebührenfrei)
Spendenkonto: 22222 00000
BLZ: 430 609 67, GLS-Bank
www.sos-kinderdoerfer.de
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
Lanolin (Adeps Lanae)
go Meding GmbH
Kruppstraße 8 · D-58553 Halver
Tel.: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 -0
Fax: +49 (0) 23 53 / 91 58 - 28
[email protected]
www.meding.com
Dermatological +
Clinical Tests
Mixing + Homogenizing
Mixing + Homogenizing
Spenden statt
Geschenke!
Geburtstag, Hochzeit, Marathon,
oder Ihre eigene Idee - starten
Sie eine eigene Spendenaktion
zugunsten der SOS-Kinderdörfer
weltweit und motivieren Sie Ihre
Freunde, Sie zu unterstützen!
A STEP AHEAD
symex GmbH & Co. KG
Lengstr. 10, 27572 Bremerhaven
Fon: +49 (0)471/98 40 10
Fax: +49 (0)471/98 40 140
www.symex.de
Engelstraße 37, 48143 Münster
www.dermatest.de
Filling Lines
Filling Lines
Your company could be
placed here for only
Maschinen für Aerosole
und Sprühsysteme
–
–
–
–
€ 201,50 per issue.
Füll- und Verschliessmaschinen
Prüf- und Sicherheitseinrichtungen
Sortier-, Zuführ- und Aufsetzmaschinen
Mess- und Testgeräte
Book your ad today.
Kosmetik - Pharmazeutik - Chemie Technik - Nahrungsmittelindustrie Farben/Lacke - Polyurethanschäume
Pamasol Willi Mäder AG, CH-8808 Pfäffikon
T +41(0)55 4174040, F +41(0)55 4174044
[email protected], www.pamasol.com
46
COSSMA 9 I 2014
Call +49 (0)721 165-144
www.meine-spendenaktion.de
www.cossma.com
SUPPLIERS’ GUIDE
Packaging
Verpackungen
Rosa Heinz GmbH
SERVICES
Chinese Edition
Sterilization
Sterilisation
steril!
Verpackungen aus Glas und Kunststoff
Wir machen Ihre
Straßfeld 6, 85777 Fahrenzhausen
Tel. +49 (0 )81 33 - 91 85 90
Fax: +49 (0 )81 33 - 91 85 99
[email protected]
www.rosa-heinz.de
BGS – Ihr Spezialist für Strahlensterilisation.
Produkte
Trends
Statements
Innovation
www.bgs.eu
WI E H L | B R UCHSAL | SAAL (DONAU)
B GS Beta-Gamma-Service GmbH & Co. KG
Find new business partners in China
with the Chinese Edition of COSSMA!
[email protected] | + 49 (0) 22 61 78 99 - 0
Verpackung
für Kosmetik –
Selbstabfüller
Dosen u. Flaschen in Plastik u.
Glas (Sprühköpfe, Dosierspender,
Aromaflaschen, Parfümflaschen,
Sprühflaschen ohne Treibgas)
Vegetable Oils
Pflanzenöle
www.a-o-t.com
Auch Kleinstmengen!
Fordern Sie unsere Unterlagen an
R.GERSCHON GMBH
D . 61462 Königstein im Taunus
Tel. 06174/7017 . Fax 06174/1312
Internet: www.gerschon.de
Together with our Chinese Partner “China Cosmetic
Review”, the first Chinese edition has been published
in May 2014.
AOT GmbH
Siebdruck ab 300 Stück
“Chinese Cosmetic Review” was founded in 1992 and is
supported by the China Federation of Commerce. China
Cosmetic Review is the only official publication in China
targeted at the Chinese cosmetics and toiletries industry.
For further information on topics, print run & circulation
and advertising rates, check www.cossma.com/china
We deliver high-quality oils, fats,
raw materials and extracts in organic quality
SEUFERT
TRANSPARENTE
VERPACKUNGEN GMBH
PACKED
WITH
INSPIRATION.
www.seufert.com
Wool wax
Wollwachs
Tel. (04 21) 6 93 60-0, Fax (04 21) 6 93 60 15
Software
Software
Please note:
10/2014
Publishing date:
06.10.2014
Advertising deadline:
10.09.2014
Please do not
hesitate to contact us if you
have any further questions
Call: Dorothea Michaelis
+49 (0)721 165-144
www.cossma.com/china
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany
[email protected]
Tel: +49 (0)721 165-144 Fax: +49 (0)721 165-150
COS1409_48_Verzeichnis_GB_COS1406_48_Verzeichnis_GB 25.08.14 13:33 Seite 48
www.cossma.com
Advertisers’
Index
Company
Index
Air Products and Chemicals, Inc.
www.airproducts.com
p. 28
Ama Laboratories
www.amalabs.com
p. 31
Bayer Material Science AG
www.bayercosmetics.de
p. 24
bb med. product GmbH
www.bb-kalkar.de
p. 33
CLR Chem. Laboratorium
Dr. Kurt Richter GmbH
www.clr-berlin.com
p. 2
A & E Connock
www.connock.co.uk
S. 52
Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH
www.courage-khazaka.de
p. 8
Dermatest GmbH
www.dermatest.de
Flavex Naturextrakte GmbH
www.flavex.com
Geka GmbH
www.geka-world.com
Greentech GmbH
www.greentechgmbh.de
Idice France
www.luxepack.com
KHK GmbH
www.lipcare.de/private-label
Kosmetik Konzept GmbH
www.kosmetik-konzept.de
Lameplast Spa
www.lameplast.it
Merck KGaA
www.merckgroup.com
Beauty Cosmetics
www.plbeautycosmetics.com
Beautycare Emmen
www.beautycareemmen.nl
p. 23
p. 9
Carl Edelmann
www.edelmann.de
p. 25
Clinique
www.clinique.com
p. 36
CLR
www.clr-berlin.com
p. 36
Coty
www.coty.com
p. 7
Croda
www.croda.com
p. 13
p. 8
Sabinsa Europe GmbH
www.sabinsaeurope.com
p. 15
Dr. Sacher Kosmetik GmbH
www.dr-sacher-kosmetik.de
p. 43
COSSMA 9 I 2014
BASF
www.basf.com
Busch & Co.
www.busch.eu
p. 39
48
Bärbel Drexel
www.baerbel-drexel.com
p. 14
p. 5
Loose Insert
Sepawa Vereinigung der Seifen-,
Parfüm- und Waschmittelfachleute e.V.
www.sepawa.com
Bakic
www.bakic.com
Brenntag
www.brenntag.de
Nürnberg Messe GmbH
www.technopharm.de
Sappi Fine Paper Europe
www.sappi.com
Babor
www.babor.com
p. 29
Naturkosmetik Konzepte
www.naturkosmetik-konzepte.de
Paul Kaders GmbH
www.paulkaders.de
Annemarie Börlind
www.boerlind.com
Biesterfeld
www.biesterfeld.com
p. 19
NCD Ingredients GmbH
www.ncd-ingredients.de
Albéa
www.albea-group.com
p. 35
DM
www.dm-drogeriemarkt.de
Dolce & Gabbana
www.dolcegabbana.com
Dow Corning
www.dowcorning.com
p. 32
Dr. Schröder Cosmetica
www.dr-schroeder-cosmetica.de
p. 18
Dr. Straetmans
p. 22
ETMA
www.etma.org
p. 32
p. 32
p. 26
p. 38
p. 38
p. 8
p. 28
Euromonitor
www.euromonitor.com
p. 38
Mintel
www.mintel.com
p. 20
Momentive
www.momentive.com
p. 26
p. 32
Mystic Nails
www.mysticnails.eu
p. 38
p. 3
Feierabend Online Dienste
www.feierabend.de
Organic Nails
www.organicnails.com
p. 38
p. 32
Gaba
www.gaba-dent.com
Origins
www.origins.com
p. 18
p. 32
Gaplast
www.gaplast.de
Pemakür
www.pemakuer.de
p. 38
p. 32
Gran.cosmetic
www.gran-cosmetic.com
Provital
www.provital.org
p. 38
Pulpe de Vie
www.pulpedevie.com
p. 18
pp. 3, 12
Rahn
www.rahn-group.com
p. 28
Sappi
www.sappi.com
p. 32
Sebapharma
p. 22
Greentech
www.greentech.fr
Hohenstein Institut
www.hohenstein.de
p. 30
p. 32
ISO Italia
www.isoitalia.com
p. 38
p. 18
Kneipp
www.kneipp.de
p. 8
p. 9
p. 26
p. 26
pp. 3, 10
Naturkosmetik Branchenkongress
www.naturkosmetik-branchenkongress.de
Evonik
www.evonik.com
Hochschule Niederrhein
www.hs-niederrhein.de
p. 38
pp. 8, 18, 28
pp. 22, 24
Kunststoffwerke Adolf Hopf
www.hopf.de
p. 8
L’Oréal
www.loreal.com
p. 8
p. 28
Merck
p. 32
MetaDesign
www.metadesign.com
p. 18
Meyer-Hentschel Institut
www.mhmc.de
p. 26
Mibelle
www.mibellebiochemistry.com
pp. 3, 16
Shiseido
www.shiseido.com
p. 8
Stölzle
www.stoelzle.com
p. 32
Sturm und Drang
www.sturmunddrang.de
p. 8
Symrise
www.symrise.com
p. 28
Tolure Cosmetics
www.tolure-cosmetics.com
p. 38
p. 32
Verniglass
www.veravalenti.com
p. 38
p. 32
Wacker
www.wacker.com
p. 26
p. 28
p. 8
COS1409_49_Impressum_GB_COS1409_49_Impressum_GB 25.08.14 13:35 Seite 49
Trends
Statements
www.cossma.com
Masthead
Page
Innovation
E-mail newsletter order
The
Team
Volume 15 ISSN 1439-7676
Published by Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Managing Director: Jürgen Volpp
Assistant: Phone: +49 721 165-311
Address Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, COSSMA
P.O. Box 1446, 76003 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-0, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Editorial Staff Legally responsible party and Senior Editor:
Angelika Meiss
Phone: +49 721 165-169
E-mail: [email protected]
Managing Director
Jürgen Volpp
Advisory Board François Berthoud, Jean-François Billon, Agnès Borel,
Peter Finkel, Dr. Ulrike Heinrich, Ulrich Herfurt,
Birgit Huber, Dr. Jean-Luc Lévêque, Dr. Daniel Maes,
Prof. Dr. Hagen Tronnier, Dr. Klaus-Peter Wittern
Advertising Advertisement Manager: Dorothea Michaelis
Phone: +49 721 165-144
Advertising Services: Beate Bantzhaff
Phone: +49 721 165-232, Fax: +49 721 165-148
The current list of advertising rates is dated
1st of Jan. 2014.
Senior Editor
Angelika Meiss
+49 721 165-169
Circulation Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Service [email protected]
Phone: +49 721 165-162, Fax: +49 721 165-148
Published: 10 issues per year
COSSMA: formerly “Parfümerie und Kosmetik“ and
“Aerosol and Spray Report“
Subscription Purchase price/annual subscription rates:
Rates Germany: € 192; outside Germany: € 198.
Cancellations addressed to the publishing firm
by letter will be accepted one month before the end of the
subscription year. The subscription fees will be billed in
advance once a year. A quarterly debit transfer arrangement via a bank or post office is acceptable.
Design/ Health and Beauty Germany GmbH
Production Ulrich Hanke
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18, 76133 Karlsruhe, Germany
Phone: +49 721 165-592
ISDN (Leonardo): +49 721 165-696
Advertising Sales
Dorothea Michaelis
+49 721 165-144
Printing Kraft Druck GmbH
Industriestr. 5-9, 76275 Ettlingen, Germany
that Health and Beauty Germany GmbH may contact
me
J by mobile phone
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with news from the industry and to tell me about interesting offers. If I do not wish to receive further information, I will communicate this to Health and Beauty.
Please fill in completely in capital letters or add your business card:
@
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Anita Zsilak, Naphegy tér 8. III. em. (MTI Székház)
1016 Budapest, Hungary
Phone: +36 1 457006600, Fax: +36 1 2013248
Italy Zero Venti
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Via Valprato, 68
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Phone: +39 0115637338
Advertising Support
Beate Bantzhaff
+49 (0)721 165-232
z Yes, I want to be kept right up to date. I therefore agree
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Phone: +48 22 8587955, Fax: +48 22 8587953
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Detlef Fox
19th Floor 5 Penn Plaza
New York, NY NY 10001, USA
Phone: +1 212 896-3881
Fax: +1 212 629-3988
E-mail
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Company
Street address
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Date and signature
© Copyright Health and Beauty Germany GmbH, Karlsruhe 2014
Graphics
Ulrich Hanke
+49 (0)721 165-592
The publisher has taken all reasonable steps to ensure the accuracy of information in this magazine. Nevertheless, no responsibility is accepted for any
errors which may occur. The magazine, including all articles and illustrations is
copyright. Unauthorised use of published material is prohibited and will be the
subject of legal action. This applies in particular to photo copying, translations,
microfilms and the storage and editing using electronic media. The use of trade
names, brand names, product designations etc. in this publication implies no
authority for their further use by third parties. Such product names and brands
may be the subject of legal protection, even though they may not be identified
as such in the magazine.
Order today:
Fax: +49 (0)721 165-103
Karl-Friedrich-Str. 14–18 76133 Karlsruhe Germany
[email protected]
Tel: +49(0) 721 165-131 Fax: +49(0) 721 165-103
COS1409_50_Vorschau_GB_COS1409_50_Vorschau_GB 25.08.14 13:36 Seite 50
www.cossma.com
SERVICES
Trend statement
Developing ever more effective products
PREVIEW
cells. After a 10-week long culture process these rose native
cells are subjected to high pressure cell dissociation.
These are our latest steps in the Absolue L’Extrait beauty
ceremony for skin regeneration: the Beautifying Lotion and
the Elixir-Concentrate that contain the Absolue Pressé, for a
smoother skin, less visible wrinkles and a less heavy complexion.
www.langcome.com
photo: Lancôme
To match consumers’ beauty aspirations we constantly investigate their
beauty routines, and gestures, to increase our knowledge of the skin and
understand beauty in all its diversity –
all around the world.
To develop increasingly effective
products we rely on our research abilDr. Véronique Delity to create molecules, such as
vigne, Director of
LR2412 introduced in Visionaire, and
Scientific Communiinvestigate key scientific fields, such
cation, Lancôme
International Paris
as skin pigmentation, genomics and
proteomics, and stem cells.
Our researchers have created a laboratory dedicated to
plant stem cells and developed a state of the art expertise in
plant cell dedifferentiation, opening the door to a whole new
generation of active ingredients with an extraordinary regeneration potential.
Our Plant Biology Research laboratory has applied this
know-how and produced a kind of rose stem cells. This exclusive active ingredient is at the heart of Absolue L’Extrait,
a skin care range focusing on the stem cells responsible for
skin regeneration.
Continuously pushing back the boundaries of technology in
the quest for even greater efficacy, our research people
Pressé. It is obtained via a novel process designed to enhance the full regenerative potential of precious rose native
Expertise in plant cell dedifferentiation
opening the door to new active ingredients
October 2014
Product development
Plus:
+++ Trend-setting styles for skin and hair +++
What’s going on in the field of emollients and emulsifiers?
+++ LuxePack 2014: luxury packaging in close-up +++
SEPAWA: new ideas and products at a glance +++
COSSMA 10/2014 is issued on October 6th, 2014
50
COSSMA 9 I 2014
Colour cosmetics
are no longer just
aids to style but
are more often
seen as products
that can do everything
Focus: Colour + style
photo: Anna Subbotina, Shutterstock.com
Yousef Atapour,
Head of R&D at Kryolan
Professional Make-up talks
about the future trends
in colour cosmetics
100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk_100-06_EA_CosmeticNET_uk 25.08.14 12:59 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
www.cossma.com/suppliers
Check the website with detailed online-information for the personal care industry –
news, product innovations, addresses, events, books and these selected internet sites:
Find tomorrow’s
suppliers today!
Hersteller von hochwertigen
kosmetischen Verpackungen
www.ashland.com
www.dr-sacher-kosmetik.de
www.azelis.com
www.roeper.de
[email protected]
www.bottlemate.de
www.rationator.com
www.meding.com
www.neopac.ch
www.flavex.com
www.bayercosmetics.com
www.gerschon.de
www.geka-world.com
www.lohn-pack.com
www.pfeiffer-consulting.com
www.laus.de
www.beinio.com
www.trichema.ch
www.brenntag-gmbh.com
www.ampullenabfuellung.de
www.zellaerosol.de
www.seufert.com
www.pro-beauty-production.de
www.hhac.de
www.novel-care.de
www.cplaromas.com
www.neocos.com
www.systemkosmetik.de
www.sili.eu
www.derschlag.com
www.inolex.com
www.unionpack.de
www.pack-it.de
www.klar-partner.de
www.etol.de
www.gscomputersysteme.de
www.rusi.de
www.lutz-packaging.de
www.ballerstaedt.de
www.kautz-design.com
www.mawi-chemie.de
www.symex.de
www.siriusmaschinen.de
www.domino-deutschland.de
www.intracosmed.ch
www.rettner.de
www.a-o-t.com
PUROLAN ENERGIZED BY
www.lanxess-distribution.com
You can find further information of these
[email protected]/suppliers as well
as on their homepages (see Url below the logos).
www.Kosmetik-Konzept.eu
Your logo can be listed here for just € 60,– per month
– for further information, please contact
Dorothea Michaelis
[email protected]
phone +49 (0)721 165-144
COS1409_Connock_02_215x290mm_1/1_A 25.08.14 13:00 Seite 1
www.cossma.com
Peach stone is just one of our
many exquisite, responsibly
sourced and quality assured
natural exfoliants available for
you to create naturally inspired
products your customers will love.
NATURE’S FINEST EXFOLIANTS
AT YOUR FINGERTIPS
[email protected] www.connock.co.uk
Alderholt Mill House, Fordingbridge,
Hampshire, SP6 1PU, England
T: +44 (0)1425 653367

Focus: Facial care

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