singer - Ipernity

SINGER
650/670
THE
SINGER
COMPANY
SI N GE R*
With your new
Sewing Machine
ODLDEN
Panoramic
You will be able to
follow the latest international fashion
CONGRATULATIONS ....
on vour dmoice of a top quality
fullNth
atured Singer Se wina machine With it you will be able
to create beautifully aJlored clothing for your entire family,
as welI as handsome decorative addiions to your home.
The advantages built into this fine precision machine can
be fully enjoyed and appreciated only if you
vonipletely undiersand how to properly operate both the maddine and
its versatile iccessories.
BEFORE YOU SEW please go through this instruction book, page
by page while seated at our machine Examine each section and
perform each
tFo;
,
peration in the sequence shown
These few n roitcs of careful preparation will thoroughly
familiarise ou xih the full range of the machine's capabilities
You can then proceed confidently with
whatever fashion creation or other sewing
project you may wish to acconplish.
.Sewing
Congratulations again on your wise choice of the Singer
machine that will prove to you for many years to
come
W•IAT'S NEW FOR TOMORROW
IS AT SINGER TODAY I
S I NGER* sevce
Whatever you are, you will find expert. dependable Singer Service avallable. II your
Sewing Machne should need servicing, call
your nearest Singer Sewing Centre to be sure
of warranted Singer Parts and Service, You
will find the address
directory.
A Trademark of Tt*1SINGER COMPANY
Form 30-1250 •v. oo;g
~Natd
In W600,IeriOrmany
Q1%? by The Siner Company
coyigh
2
in the
telephone
Contents
WSeEipao 86 No lnuexj
Operating the Machine
Pniwijal
Pane
Mots of We Nicdtine
DIl)
I. A
..
Two Speed Foot Contro.ller
Tteadlol Drite
Sewing
Snujtht >iitdnnq
>t I
Stn
o
hlan
'n ý ert
Imotmlsomt
0
Sour stthunq
fP,luan l and DmmnrtvoStcii....32
l
8
,
s
n•hos.
1
1
to32
,,
,
IplHuldold
1h"
If~ 1 1'.1
aml
it1
NO1
Pot1
I>lF
A
ld
1,t
.,]
W
i7o(i
oI r
4
362
r
57
(I(t
i
.3
1t3, 70
sltlofn o
W'I' Imic uoni
11"
'e':0
"In
[T , lliq
ItQ'0w
ýp-~~~)
m1
1 itH
tltslnit
(Steld stitdd
7l
2
46
mI! T,
lI~~~t'2
M
0
iton,
31
3
12
2n,7Zoo
i A
,.
17
t
Nepl
v
~
,
RIqKW'0
lrai sto
NirhMir S','d
/i)l• i;
{hI),,, V n%7
h"I
.22
6
-9
Sesinq Light.
......
7, 4
Reov al dud Ri~aesnee
•A fh'tomtl'
Ci, i
at
Xpplw only to
) Lhn
i.
-
SI
Page
t
up11
rit>
Sa1
I mlld3 Sco'o',
62
61,
64
A
77.5
Al
26
SINGER 6f0
1,A
~
o
n
ei~
D lra
l
lt
'ai
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
2
4i
SINGER 650
Principal Parts for 650 and 670 Machines
I
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
It
12
13
14
15
16
17
18
Slide Plate
Throat Plate
Presser Foot Screw
Presser Bar
Needle Clamp
Presser Bar Lifter Lever
Pressure Release Button for Stitch
Pattern Selectors
Needle Thread Tension
Built-in Needle Threader
Pressure Regulating Dial
Threading Chart
Chainstidch Thredd Guide
Link Type Threid Take-up Lever
Needle Thread Pre-tension
Stitch Pattern Selectors
Stitch Width Selector
Special Disc Holder
Built-in Stitch Chart
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
Thread Guide
Spool Spindle
Thread Lead-off
Spool Seat
Light Switcd
Hand Wheel
Bobbin Winder Engaging Lever
Bobbin Winder Spindle
Stitch Length Regulator
Built-in Sewing Light
Bobbin Winder Pre-tension
For 670 Madcine only
30 Cloth Plate Disengaging Button
3! Attachment Box Lid
32 Detachable Cloth Plate
S
.e jric ODive
.
0
Before setting the machine into operation, be surf, itat the
voltage and cycles stamped on the el+ctrical nmelate B
are within thý rariyf marked otn the e-kc-ric meter in lti[ied
by the +local poIr
Company
To plur in the macdtin, push 3-pin terminal p t uq C uilt( 3pim
terminal bloýk at the right end of nmddne Then connect plug
A to lectriadl outlet
A
Foot Controller
1hhe toot controller sets the imactune into opiration and requlates its speed The harder you press the pedal D, the aster
the madchne will sew
ntitl the mnachine reaches its top speed
lower Speed Control
[ r i, i ii
aw
+, •td 'pof~i
, wl
/1 dr-1
tho p1ýý t
ilit '
r,l
J
\
w;'
I"m
'! :+
m I..
• . ..
i,' , ýl
p '•d jfwj, i; T ,
,'f
Io?
,*s .p'1w i' ho
1[[•
,
{'j,'. <i w t'I,ý
.a ' t ýl, "M•IN " ]t•if
1. , p /•:, ,ý n/ fic r~friq,
,! fdidll,1:, w -I
<ci up
Pr. l-"
'pr~
r1
operl
r•q
liii>
lm
tii~hl
qll p ,Vl• i
>*!,1' lJ
3
I•l''<
"I hl[
P
iiott
,in ,
•
]"
Information for 650 G 14 Machine
The 650G 14 mndctine is equipped with a special hand wheel
which can be used for motor and treadle drive Therefore, the
machine can be changed to treadle drive addhtionally
...
Wm in.
MD
The builtin sewing light is turned on or off
by means of light switch F. which is localed
beneath the arm top cover lid
I
F
To change the light bulb
/1
[lisco rnelI ptiJ fromi ( 1vrical outlllet before
reoingO, nj ol'd bulb W1ith Inumb of rtqht hand,
push on and down on rib of light lens (see
Itiustratiol[
IDo not ittempt to utrs( ro" bulb out of socket,
Press it intmolt w
,nd it tihe same time turn
bulb over 71 r i ion shown
to unlbok bulb
pirn
. Wi tlhdtt],
bult
Press new bull) f}I ,Aoket, with bulb pin G
(qnterinq slot (A ,ocket and turn it over in
direction shown to I e{k bulb pin G in proper
position
Unlocks
Locks
Bulb pin
B
Aiiil!i
Treadle Driv. (For
Machim only).00
In case that you do not have any experience in sewing with
treadle drive - first it is necessary to become familiar with
this type of drive.
Loosen stop motion screw
and place both feet on
treadle,
Turn hand wheel over toward you, allowing feet to
move freely and lightly with
motion of treadle. Practise
this motion until you are able
to re-start machine with hand
wheel turning over toward
yea Then tighten stop motion screw for normal machine drive.
8
To Replace Belt
Remove
parjeA 83).
arm
top cover
(as described
on
Inert end of belt into cutout A and lead to
tPpo that it enters groove in hand wheel,
Lead belt around hand wheel and down
tihrough guide of treadle belt idler pulley
bl-acket B.
Lead belt around band wheel in cabinet Join
b:th ends of belt by means of belt clip. Ten.
sion Do belt should be only heavy enough to
ke.p belt front shipping
.
Replace arm top) Cover.
Connection of Sewing Light
Before inserting electric plug A. be sure that
ý0otaqe stamped on nameplate B s,. within7
tange marked on the electric meter installed
y the local power company
Electrical Connection for Machne. Push 3-pin
terminal plug C onto 3-pin terminal block at
rioht of machine and connect plug A at other
en.i of cord to electric outlet.
l
A
ý13
Bumb replacement is described on page 7.
Information for 650 G 14 end G 15 Machine with Selective Motor and
Treadle Drive
The 650 G 14 and G 15 madcines are equipped with a special hand wheel, which can
be used for motor and treadle drive, Therefore, both machine models can be
dcanged either to treadle or electric drive additionally.
When changing over from treadle drive to electric drive, the belt has to be
removed from the band wheel or the cabinet by throwing off toward cabinet wall.
9
Stitch Plaftiw
TI
stilh , ", i w1
macline .dt
,
,ý
ýI
Selectors
i. pattern of your
I , lwre you start the
pýh,
Setting for
Straight stltdng: AK
Zigzag stltching:
HIL
Many (omb nbai ons are possible for decoralive sewing and practical sewing. Some of
hese combinalions are shown on the stitch
chart inside the cover on top of machine.
This cover may be left open while sewing.
A
•00
To select required stitch pattern
I. Turn hand wheel until needle is at its
highest position.
I2. Depress push button A and keep depress
Aedunlil selection is compleled.
I Push stitch pettern selector button in and
slide to left or right to bring indicator line
to desired setting
Sti
Width SleCtor
You will ao need to el the lever for sew-
To set stitch width selector
ing. The stitch width selector does two jobs:
traiehit stitdiing, rih: lever 5CR fil
*~Pe
n}!t--Ie p
i~o)iin
i•r•enre, riht or lefi]Normnatty, you will use setting 3 (centrej.
Therelore, memorize the normal setting
for straight stitching: AK3.
*
andr
[e!r
To position, ceprccsr 5111h widt'h s01(
right. D) not set stith Width st lector while
thfb e
•ql-le
is in It- hItsi(a Thc nuierwls
fincatlv
pos i)ens but
tilts may also be used
For zirigz
stilt crin,this lever tontrots
the setting of the width
Straight Stitching:
Needle Position Selling
Zig-Zag Stitching: Stitch Width Setting
24
11!
I
a
3
imter
i, d tale set-
Stitch Length Requgltov
Thý
tn
1--
(bI
eto
didI ir ini
y,,I dire( t or.
The numpr,]rdisn
•itlher side nwuan:
Lelt hand side (20-61:
Nun her of stitches per inch.
Right hand side ( - 4):
Stitch length in millimeters
A slojertliii <*r!nro4 can be made in case of
sti,
len(l,!i k.,, bIarn 1 mm or 20 stitches
per ilh
The m
-Vh
iti
length 4 min (6 stitches
per inc-!1 (an bc lndked in place whIer, satId
ong Lids, plvatý or muoltpie lavers ol heavy
fabric,
j1Unlock
...
12
22ocks
To set stitch length
Loosen thumb nut by, tlu rog ti. left PoStfin
lever for desirerd stitch lt:ioith Tiqhyen thumb
nut by turning to right
By raising the stitch lenglh regulr tar 1o the
highest point, reverse stitThnig is accompihshed at the same sl ithr length as forv ard It
reverse stitching is desired with loiked stildh
length position at 4 mm (6 sttudes per inch),
turn thumb nut to the kit until shitt length
regulator can be adjusted to its highest point
at reverse stilching
Throat Plate and Presser Foot
I
( ;eeieal Putpow Throat Plate
i,
(
I i ] ' lo{~(Ih t dil, !
1 !!F ll%
1 ,, Ti
;,.
[
h illlli•,
P
,
•i;1
Q !
I
N
{:i• ýt
i
":
*
I
l,
I;
I,
St!itc
r
ý
4 Fied
(pover
Th
?
.I , d
.
•l
i,r !
0
r~l
I) Y 'l
i
•'Ii •
q%~,
•roa
Plate
<'A' l
*
i>Il
t •
11"I 40
Plate
T D Il I l,[•
t
1
,!
b, ,
•,
I I' -
a d
Plate
4
ASuihTrotPat
~~ ~ ~ ~
Chai
la
1i7
2 Straight Slilfh Throal
pl
! l
[
Itr
TI ,
•t
)il
~~iii
-1- '~~
};
Ik
}
"
•ll
7 *
-
To Remove the Throat Plate
Raise presser lai Turn hand wheel to raise
needle to Its highest position, Open slide
pla'e. Place both thumbs under throat plate
,r,
and lift plate from unladtuie.
To Insert the Throat Plate
Place
th.r,.t plit
in position
over
two
clampirn pins anJ re ease. The magnets draw
the throcit *late intc proper position. Close
slide plaie.
To Change the Presser Foot
Turn hand whebU to raise needle to its highest positi "n. Rave p--sser foot. Loosen presser foot ,'-rew i, filt the presser foot can be
slipped from arwimd the presser bar.
Presser Foot Litter Lever
/ser
3
A normal lift of the presser in )t lifter level
brings it up inll position I ant, by doing so
the presser fort releases open ng a. Normal
fabrics can be easily placed uwider the presfoot.
For easier plafsing of thicker fabrics, th?
presser foot thttr !ever can be raiked further
to position 2. This raises the presser foot
[a
-
14
-.
to its highest pr)si-ion b.
When raising )rcsser foot li ter !ever into
position 2 you t.ust overcome t spring pressure and keep the lifter le.eri n position
since it does not lock in th ; pc.s;tion; but
when released tle spring pressure returns
the lifter lever ir.to position I1 Be sure that
the presser foot Iter lever i; set •i position
3 before sewmCi
md not left iit po-Ition I in
error.
Positton for darning
Increase
Decrease
and embroidery
operations
S-eissure Dial
I,dial regulates the pressure that the presso' f•oo exerts on the fabtic, Smooth, even
hond!inn of several thicknesse, of fabric
To unts when pressure is correctly regulated.
I _,,ivv
press r, is for thick fabric and light
p) e(ýtS is
tor
thin fabric,
Tor light a pressure will result in irregular
Peoring which affects both quality of stitch
,.n I evtn'rss of seams.
he
I ressure not only affects Silth
, boavY
iV SePe I
thedl Y out will also mar smooth
1aces daiJ pile fabrics.
Sii fare 1inish, ds well as the weight and
,, lure o the fabric, must be considered in
J
•<mli
nig the amount of press•tre needed,
'Itset the pressure
Lowe- the presser foot
To increase pressure, turn eial to higher
number.
To decrease pressure, turn dial to lower
number
For darning, turn di I to D, whirh releases
pi-essýre and permri' darning without an
embioidery hoop.
Needle Thread Tension
This dial regulates thp degret of tension on
your ieedle thread.
To incr.aso t-.t
%vtt: I urn cia! to right hand
side ýt h gh
-h2
,itbe*)
To dnc.erise
: furn
Co;A diql to left hand
T,
Site (to tel
Fr icetatled invtruc,.-z
-pages
27 a.d 28
15
Needles and Thread
T•)~~~ýý
g'dli:
lhýN''~f
',
To Chlrmn
[tiet Needle
h i
ttitl<
N ull
tl
Ii
l
[ Zh
'I Il
I/
f
w I >H
Ik
I I1
1 11
iArd
Vý
•
•1
i
i'
I
II
i
Nee'tdle lind I hread Selectioin
i, S m+ I,
i
I't.
+
i, + 1
I"I
Fabric. Thread, No"dl and Stitch Length Chart
Thread
Fabrics
Simsis
Delicate-
tlle,
Needle
S_
_Sites
Straight Stitahig
Macline Stltches
mdi
mm
IS to 20
1-1-5
per n
60 matreivoed
tlfton, one lace,
100 Cotton
fPne Synlhe tir
silk, orahndo fine tricot
Thread
Lightwelght - batiste, ngazbdlte0
Jerseyi coile, taffeta, silk, caepei
plastic
pin~ie
Medium Weight inrq•uhma, manmade •atbri,
pique, liben, ddatz,
faille, satin, fine corduroy, snitfalls, cortn-barked plastc
Medium Heavy -
gabardine,
tweed, sailcloth, denim, coatings,
furnishing fabrcst60
Heavy - overcoatings, twill,
upholstery fabrics, canvas
) Does not apply to cdainstltchi•g.
16
l
Mercerized
80 to I•OCottica
Thread
Synthe~tic
Pur~e Silktetlalc
t
50 Mercerized
60 to O Cotton
P14e lk2
Synthetic Thread-
to I
40 Mercerized
40
n
Cotton
30 Mercerized
24 to 40 Cotton
12to IS
1,-2
I18 tofor
10plastic)
25-3
18
15
1 toC12
2-2,5
a to 10
2,5-1
.S~po~ol...odr
S;
ofU(
ShPp
j)"o
oftr.±"l
1ýd-
1
I ifd2A~ý~
r3
fqtrI
Iu
(111(l I.ýo Hie "t,
d 'j ... uI
?ý
Bobbin Thread
To Wind the Bobbin
•
I Release hand wheel: Turn stop motion
screw with right hand in direction shown
arrow while holding hand wheel with
hand.
•by
]left
3
2 Slip bobbin onto bobbin winder spindle
and depress bobbin winder engaging lever.
•
:3 Thread the machine as shown. Wind several coils of thread around the bobbin in
direction shown by arrow, and start madune.
A soon as enough thread is wound on the
bobbin it will automatically disengage itself
7•
2
It
":
Stop machine, raise bobbin winder engaging
lever and remove bobbin fron, bobbin winder spindle.
4 Tighten stop motion screw with :ight hand
in direction shown by arrow while 'holding
hand wheel with left hand.
Threading the Bobbin Case
I
Hold bobbin so that thread leads off in
direction shown.
2 Place bobbin in case. Lead thread into slot
and under tension spring.
3 Draw thread into notch at end of spring
pulling off about 8 cm (3 inches) of threac
across the bobbin..
•
2
4 Close slide plate allowing thread to ente:
notches shown
..........
.4
lei
~N
rTT
4
19
Upper Throading
Threading with Built-in Needle
Threader
11,
(iI'
}
1:4>
s"
iiI
ItI
2O.
20
r
(1
T
1[i ' !
h~l l
Ii,
i,'i ..
at ,
ý )1'{'
t ,,
(::ý
"i,1
3N
}
dA
ii ,
I1'),
1 k
d'sý
i
I ]vll
, th t.
•!!][2!l
%iti11i-
• ý, <id t
ý[ ii-
1, ,1 t
!
thiq Iii
....
~A
Removal and Replacement of
Threading
Hook
([}]
•i!] or; 4)
To Remove Threading Ifook
Sw inq (dI)n0 ucf feilltreaidvi a.
d, wkie~q
mýIvfn nt tO1< ý
.
i,
Cv.',~t'
To Replace Threading Ihook
rd Ineedle
P[{~~~ilm
] ,:,i
iodi,
I
P!:csiliorl ihlr~airtqi ti:,>o
k b lw't' tihrenol >t't
Oft) to nocdli> ttsresvle.
Aliqn the h
in th, hook an n,
mes
needl
,,l
re
d ;r,
RepI >c
1
1(0,
ti er
sd:
Push rear right angle edge of hook against
threader and li hteerý scrcw,
11
t
• ih!.ý7
11ý
WI)•
rteei t{, U
[h ,.
r it> )11> I1I' I (n
1 sthuw;rl
itI €ritlll,' I ,ittlld
'rl\
S\%. t'r
•1 1i1irlie
1[
mioo
o Wl
k Iwo
"- .
1
1
,
'Idd
Intel
Tht' httk Itt'[ 1 j,
11"-,
nitw
ý tret]
by
2
3 ..
the
f
d
m..
21
Straight Stitching
K
©3
Settings a e Fittings
t*4, atlern selectors at AK (straight stitching) and tihe slit(h width
Whcn sett not 1
centre needle position) you can use the following two types of
ctt,
selector a .(
equipment,
I. General purpose throat plate and general
1purpose
presser foot.
This is the basic equipment for all utility
i
("
2.
This equipment should be used where ac-
MqO:curate
straight stitching is required, when
stitching sheer and flimsy fabrics.
This equipment requires stitch width selec-
2.
1
2
3
4 S
1
2
stitchpresserfoot.
-Straight stitch throat plate and straight
3 4
tor setting 3, otherwise the needle hits the
throat plate or presser foot and breaks.
5
S
*
*
To meet special requirements, you may wish
to place a line of stitching to the left or right
of center. You must use the general purpose
throat plate and presser foot in this case
(equipment I).
Stitoh width selector setting I places sitithing
Sttothe left; setting 5 places it to the righng
Intermediate settings may also be used.
Raise needle above fabric before moving
selectors.
22
Raising The Bobbin Thread
Now that you have threaded both the bobbin
cAse and needle, you will need to raise the
bobbin thread through tie needle holl In the
throat plate.
1- Hold needle thread li jlP I With left hand
(thread above i resse fool). Turn haf,.
wheel slowly toward you so that needle
enters throat plate.
2. Continue holding needle thread and uir
ruing hand whet I until r oedle rises ant
brings up bobbin thread in a loop. Pull the
needle thread to raise the loop to the eye
of the needle.
A./
3. Undo the loop with your finger.
A
4. Place both needle and bobbin threads diagonally under presser foot, making sure
bobbin thread is located in the rear thread
guide of the bobbin case.
23
J
4,
Sewing a Seam
Set stitch lenqtIh regulalor tor tildl lhenqbh
d(esr(d and needle thread hnsion to a mTrdium value,
\.ith presser foot raised align fabric %,ih
appropiriate seam lgude line orn the throAt
;.ite.Poitin eede ito!abcibout ¼ inch
c
co(I
flIroim
the r•ar edge,
Lower the presser foot Set stitc lenIth
(
reqULiter to revverse and badglitdh to end lfImndleridl loti{iliior(•>
0.
24
Set requlator for forward slitcinng anrd stitch
to end of scare.
Guiding and Supporting Fabric
\lo.ohnc-!s
!ed
o be juidod in fronit of
the p uesser foot only.
Thte,quidelmh eý )f Ilit hrlid plwte are
,I moons to kevp the sedui straflbt, fhe
OTOwni",I
)ýT
the oppo(site jill>
strnt"on. Iu eqýXtra , m[!'A of 'b~ric It is best
k
t-e s•,.tti quld(, dhzcrnbed on polqe 6Of
VI
hi
!rt 1ii
!no,> (n
I ,1
dO Vs
<jit,
>1)st~t~(
i' fý'!d
Off
i
Os hi,
pu~ke~n
Ittrie re
t,
Iftiri
In thins
o
to
pi-t C
0>
hold
'VII
theý sIt,~ l
tik
f 1Foil 'hmlhd I" nsetýt
50~~~~~~a'
t >t>
((l
Inr.
p,,no
25
Stitch to edge ot fabric to complete seam.
Set stitch length regulator to reverse and
backstitch some vhata to reinforce end of seam.
Turn hand whi el to bring take-up lever to its
highest point. Thise presser foot and remove
fabric,
..
..
....
..
.... ..
..
...
..
........................
..
2 6.•iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii~
H
WCut
-H..
both thread on built-in thread cutter, as
...
hReset stitdi
Hstitching.
length
regulator
Pn
rwovrd
Reguiatiitg the Thread Tensions
I>0
"U
torrsros are( arp>t~t
1 .
To
cthtWin
a pori-tet; Iroh, thev jntIco
<LdSsttaw ke pore exacto in M, muldhI
'J
To ieter ninno correot iensh m seftiig, Sew a NO Wan, NI a s;-mple Nyr
rniWediurnoole j <(Ld tension Iapp4ox 41. IH thi t[id sia~an uoWS an in
I
u can
-'w needle an .1
of te sewn q
irbmhw by u<siiq
*;crrot appCaflaCQe,
ydjust the needle thread tension as lfolows.
/ g
I
1: the thread bi ,ps lie on the underside of the
thread tension is too loose,
tIie ee ,
eto
i
ci r by tu,:i,,l the tension dial to higher
(o
numfe-,
If the
of the
tight.
~
lower
'y udjutrIpihig 28W.
thread boos lie on tne upper surface
I needle threazi tension is too
sear,Co( ct b tutnino tension dial to
- u- be>
I<5
-I
hwr
dloIwd
sham
tonusla
n In nwrllum valueo
i'nd IfCWhorial
fII Ii rl
'
n
I
a
I
I
< $i
n
0c70 o f
th,
,r
1111 m
28
1
'•I
6t70
w
boo iJ~I
l ire
1
i
)
hVt~
ti!
ll
1
* /
1H l
I
l
I-r
Zig-Zag Stitching
The ziq-zarl fn
rtlresof your SIN'(;R sewrcog niadikratn
give you arnalrmost unlimited dcotl
Of 51itdtl patterns Sowle pattlerns arc, puel{y de coratie dand will give
on an individualtoucd
to your clothes and your home whie others are used for practical purpoe>, as Well
H( 1rr
re socre examples
*
The plain zig-zag stitch is used for buttonholes, UltODn sewlng, Seamll liruslng, apDfique work etc
*
The multiple stitch zig-?ag is well suited
for faýtlning] elaslic anrd for all types, of
household mnending
*
The blind stitch can
*
The overedged seam is appropriate for
tuse II ptoducil u and finishing of seans
in elasticiýzedl fabricS
lbe ise~d
hems, seam finishing et(c
for producing
Mi
V
V V
V
V
V V
jj4 JJJ) jJJjj
VVVVV
Y
VVVV
The stitch patteorns are prodiied oithor fronm the hlIttrn discs or fromI theitteirhangeable
siti'al discs. A geat variedt
•f aiditiulal s3tit
f
patterns
tcan be obtained by- combining
built-in discs with special discs
Equipment for Zig-Zag Stitching
;456
x
General Purpose Throat Plate
Genera Purpose
Presser Foot
for plain xIg-2ag
Specal Purpose
Posner Foot
for Sell
stitching
Stitching and open
stitch patterns
29
Settings for Plain Zig-Zag Stitching
2
3
4
5
©
Stitch Pattern Selectors at B L
S• t 1,r
tir, .... .nt .
the zig-zag stitch;
Sclettir sett;
B ,
s fh nte
edle posh
lto)1
(coiltreo
Stitch Width Selector: 2-5
The stitch width selector controls the st,tdc
a idth (Refer to page It.). The settings iraaf
from a maximum of 5 to a minuimum of 2.
Raise needle above fabric before morving
stitdc pattern or stitch width selectors
Stitch Pattern Selectors
left needle positionM
at AL
AL.
Uýtý
Palt-rn Selectors al B L
centre needle po-iticon
BL
S;~t~n
th
ttern Selectors at C L
right needle position.
Left and right neaedle positions are oniy effective at stitch widths loss than 5.
Selector setting B is generally preferred. Settings A and C are only used when special
placement of stitidnng is detsired. For example, Buttonholes, button sewing
30
i
Satin Stitching
Satin stitchinog a st•iwst
of i•!
srd.
Z1q-iaq stwfres.' uses it"e
"ina "J Ito
st tdi length reguflator
13s I sewinggsuisul l can be obtained by uing
he special putpose presser tona
Some fabrics may require the addition of a
backinc; to lensure firlm 'sflr stodrmn
('
organdet or lawn is suitable for this propo e
.
a
Adjusting stitch length: The identded
bthind the stitd indi(a)or, a, siown in tar
'Hliostrist I'll provide~s a means rof ilraduoali
shortiening he stitch lenglh.
As thre regulator knot) is tiurned, the p unotl~
rides deeper into this indentation unit a
closed satin stitch s obtained
The excact staitc len(,thl will vary wilh tile
texture Of tile fabric It is advisable to makei
a test oil d scrap of same falihe first, before
proceedinq wsith actual work
.a12..
VV
.
Adjusting needle thread tension: Satin sttdtle requires less needle thread tension than
straight stitching or open zig-zag designs,
Furthermore, the wider the satin sticd, the
lighter the tension on the needle thread must
___
......
.......
be.
To determine correct tension setting, a test
sample should be made on same fabric. A properly balanced satin stitch should lie flat
across the material, Any tautness or pu&*e-.....1ot
rinq indicates too high a needle thread tenSion..
a~lu
kttn
.Voped
Wil
vief
-
31
Practical and Decorative Stitching
Basic Patterns - Built-In Discs
L N P R
MNIjyjSpecial
B
The seven built-in discs are represented by
the letters L to R. If you move the stitch
pattern selector to one of these letters you
will get one of the basic patterns shown
below.
The lower stitch pattern selector is generally
set at B = centre needle position Setting A
represents left, and C represents right needle
position, as described on page 30.
L....
N
L =Zig-Zag StIlgh
0 = BlWn Muff
The stitch width selector controls the width
of your stitches. The widest stitch width
(setting 5) will generally produce the best
sewing results for the pattern.
Raise needle above fabric before moving
stitch patltern and stitch width selectors.
.
0 = Multtp=1-Sutdi Zig-Za.
32
P
Q
if.
Basic Patterns -
Interchangeable Special Discs
The five interchangeable special discs that
come with your sewing imachne can be used
lo produce still other basic patterns. The
circledl
tlor exampleQ§
in this book
indicatenumbhers
special disc
numbers
2
nf
3
22YVVYYVYVV.
*<Od
dgflfl
edged soms. (Refer topage7 0 . )
When you use a special disc, the upper stitch
pattern selector must always be on Special.
It you then set the lower stitch pattern selecfor on A, B or C, it will place your stitches
at left,centre, or right (Refer to page 30c)
B (cenlre) is generally preferred,
with special discs, setting 5 will generally
produce the best sewing results for the pattern.
The stitcrl width selector can then be used to
control the stitch width. Also when working
Combined basic patterns can be
pages 34 and 35.
To Change Special Discs
I. Raise stitcli chart cover Remove disc and
I Raise needle to itshighest point.
2 Move tipper slitch pattern selector
specral.
N PR
off
seen on
place another on spindle, push down until
disc snaps in place.
4. Set upper stitch pattern selector on special.
L N P R
KNO
NPR
/M/O00Q
•
K,•M
Specia l
33
Combination Patterns
You can
nmbier, tvo basic patterns either
* By selecting two buit-in disc positions or
" By selecting one built-in disc position and <one irtletharyiealen sprcial disc,
As we have seen, lth letters L to R of the, upper sWiIch patteri selector represent the built-in
dhscs arid spec-at represen s the inl rdchaigecbe spta ,t disc:>
Since there is only one selector bulton for setllng ihe letliets L to Speoial, how is it possible
to conmbine two bhasifpatt[(nYs? The arnswer is that tho etters D through J of the lower stitch
pattern selector also represent the boilt-in discs. As shown below, D corresponds with L, E
corresponds with M, and so forth. In this way you cati conmbitne two basic patterns
L
M
D
E
Upper Stild Pattern Slector
N
0
F
P
Q
R
H
I
J
Lower Stitd Paftern Selector
IPlease note
" When set out combination patterns, the stitch woidth seleclor no longer controls
stitch width but it vaies the pattern and may he set t> 2, 3, or 4 (not 5).
* Combination patterns cannot be used with two nee~dles
Example of Combination Pattern Varied by Stitch Width Selector
23
0
'4-i
JL2
4
JL 3
JL4j
the
Examples
Coutbton
mtnSe
n4
Retaled
(Some examples are also showa in the sttft coat cover a top of ¥YOrt nddnt)
Mase neede above fabric before movin stitch pattr and std width ae,Odomn
Lo.we SUh Patter Select"r
Upper Stitch Pattern Selectr
D Specia
Sp2atial
.
7.MW
Suf
sole®
D
Spedia
S3j
D
SP~
2
D
P
4
Tflflj¶JflLMXVLXLPLPLP
B
P
2
tA~-7>
F
0
2
F
F
2
kAAAAA~~4~
G
M
4
4101W W MW41iA~
G
P
4
G
speat®
2
G
Special
H
Speal ®
I
L
(
4
--.-.- -..
-*"
v-.•.
-.-.-.
. ..
-.
r~fllr
.
f
;t
A~
40AWM1,4
* -1-
"
6Mr
----1:
4..0 Of '
4
2
35
Two-Needle Stitching
By using two needles at once, you can produce two parallel, closels spaced, decorative
lines of stitching simultaneously. You can use either one or two colors of thread; oid you
can choos%, either a stiaight stitch setting, or o ne of the basic pattuns. (Cormbinatilon patlerls
Cannuot be used for two-needIle work.) Some of the attractive designs you (cn teaIc are
shown on page 38.
How To Insert Second Needle
The needle clamp easily accomodates two
needles, Catalogue 20120 ([15XI) To insert the
needle, simply loosen the needle clamp screw
and
insert
the
additio nal need e from
the
right with the long groove toward you.
To Thread The Machine
place firstI spool of thread onto spool holder
and lead thread through eye of first thread
quide. Raise stith deirI cover and insert
auxiliary spool holder (which is furnished
with the machine) into hole provided for it.
Phwc second spool of thre•ad onto auxiliary
spool holder dard thread ds lor one-needle
shiching (see page 20), making ceitain that
both threads are separated by the center
disc of the needle thread tension.
36
Straight Stitching With Two Needles
KK
h2S2j
m
2
A
Basic Pattern Stitching With
Two Needles
I pper Stit(I P *ttrrn Se!ector: L to Spoctii
•,
Io
<r
SW di Palteon Solirtor: A
ý (WidIh
SSBlorr: 2 or 3 (maximnumn)
Sit,
Throot Plote CenIipo>'
Pros or Fotot Gen0ro pnrpuI' 01
Special Purposv
L N PR
A
37
Eraqi.. of onom&.v Two-NabcU S"tIdg
settiStinhgn
®
A
Special
3
A
Q
3.
A
N
a
A
Special
A
p3
3a.a.
4a
®-3
A
SpeciaW
3
A
0
3
Special Disc Numbers
00
A..
M
a.
.
V.
.
aa
0WONNO
rCCCCC. .
Chainstitching
\4omre
,,
ny o'her sewlinl roat<1inem yair
aw >I\(I;R will ehliiiileao
toseidEtiMle
,
tistimin4if aniiiht~oitw
imartie
wOt k plt
nstV doiae by hllnd in that blok
sidlo old sinqle thread inslilehinq cln
be "olt
hIV[
vo vr •lot
•tha
nialcine.
Th Is (
ibl's vou to usetýa•i
to
Iitms
new waYs
teinrl 1inbine,
Il,
sal in"
of
lahle.
<eI
bolhbin
es are!
linked
madlonlef,
{Ill
like liavfnrj
" tIt
-lerlohtinq
loops on the underside If the
Fhi, slithebe
ire produced bv the
httoid dkmie
so you do nlat need
thrd
or i holbiri Ben•
lase•
th stitl>
formed
e f]vdinile
bs a sl
thread, th(eIntl
ops trislra'
easily" The entirt line
ion[
I
ta0]
(d
f
otetVI'd 'iIth ust
atpl!
i
onII,thelstad end, A Is,, the, lopl formation
l t1he sottlaes makes them less tau!t i•h
;mqlth-thread rtahinslitcuint look's like rtga' reqlulr straiqht sI ches. That's what makes
Lit zloirlil slitimq on top. hot itis a s rti>' rtaitliinhtinilIt f xlibh
Top Side of Cl•halstltdl Seem
Underside of Chalastlitc
Seam
Hiere are a few of the many sewing jobs for wihich you will find chainstitcdinq useful
Basting -- trial seorns for fittinqt
ront0u(Ilon qtdel]ies, z)!pper opt rlinin s. lIningsS arIid
ilIttriIcings
Hemming curtains and draperies thlb ina
t1i (lto be alltoed
teei
To, poesem,
Stay-stitching
datin
II
S
st
rb(III
b]M
(jO[IiI, Ls
q( tIis..'oi
Fastening removalble trimmning - ',unt'
collars white collars and auffs
hlpeF
Se wing ternporary tucks
aking
a', tar
I d Il h III
welling
ior
corded
for d(iidren
r
I I dy '
searms,
1ý
IWholtr
I[
cording _ [or IrnTnlt iiii arId bo lttolt 1(
Attaching hem tape and Plastic waisltIfarl-
Stitching seams in knit and stretch garments
Some examples dre iliuas:ao d oil
alrtl'
It
To Prepare The Machine For
Chainstitching
I . Remove regular throat plate and bobbin.
...
.2.
ZTilt
Insert chdTistitd, loop retainer into bobbin
case (Illustration 1)
latch Ulllustration 21 and turn to the
rear against stop (Illustration 3).
I. Insert chainstitch throat plate
2
Machine Settings
Stitch Pattern Selectors: A K
Stitch Width Selector: J
Stitch Setting: Norally set for maximum
length, approx. 4 ram; but any stitch
length between 2 and 4 Tnom may be
3
"used.
Presser Foot: General Purpose or Straight
Stitch
K
A
40
Threading
in ddit ion tof 1he nor-mal threading You must
,dso pimý nee-dle thread through Cyttlet in the
dawnsi•tc, thread guide.
To Adjust Thread Tension
Chamstitdunq requires generally less needlethread tension than regular straight stitching,
when compared to the same size and type of
thread When the tension is correctly adjusted, the dsam will be flat and smooth.
A
Puckers in the fabric and pindced loops indicate too mudc tension; turn tension dial to a
lower number.
Large, irregular loops indicate too little tension, turn dial to a higher number.
41
Stitching
S.
'I
When starting mnake -sure that the take-up
lever is in its highest position, T1is will prevent the needle thread from pulling out of
the needle if the thread has been crt too
short. Caution, you may sew forward only.
Position neeodie in very edge of fabric, lower
.the presser Ioot and stitch. If tile material is
pivoted at thie neodle for operations where
cornering is required, mjjitke certain that the
needle is on its upward movement (approx.
V, inch [I cmj abov its lowest point) to avoid
skipped stih les.
Then continue to stitch in
thle new direction.
To Remove The Fabric
The ,asiest way of reimoving ili fabric is to
New off the edge of the fabric (Illustration I)
while sighftly pulling on the material, This
produces ar chain which should be cut sonme
distance away from the fabric (Illistration 2).
However, if the seam is ended before the
edge of the fabric, bring the take-up lever to
its highest point, then lift the presser foot
and pull some thread through the take-up
lever fror the spool pin (Illustration 3). Now
draw thre loose thread between presser fool
plate and top surface of fabric to the left
with the scissors (Illustration 4) and then cut
the thread approx. '/, inch (I cm) above fabric
(Illustration 5). Remove fabric from the machine by pulling it straight back, away from
you. This will cause the thread end to pull
through the fabric to the underside and form
a temporary lock (Illustration 61. If you wish
to secure this temporary lock, fold the thread
end back over the chain and fasten with hand
stitching.
q-,
42
To Open The Seam
Chaiestitdhnj (an be removed smoothly and cleanly in seconds in vme direction nly. fro"
the end of the seamn toward the start of the seam. The opening direc tion is distinguished Ithe <troweoads of the loops on the underside of the fabric wh.d, po.at t•oard the bei~fnnio
of the stCa.
To open the. seam, smiiply cut the last loop formed on the undersic, of the fabric (Illusftr
tion I and 1hen pick up the freed lhread end from the top surface of t1 o tebric fIllustration 2
Uy a single pull (1].u
With this free thread cnid the entire line of stitdnhleg can be removt
strai~on 3).
To Change from Chainstitching to Lock Stitching
p.•4rep
t
i
Žq the bobbin and iserting the desired zig -zag o str
go; st i Idthroat plate.
43
Ways To Use Chainstitching
here (al0
s tT
•ertd
oV illýtIidl you will flid <.iianstchin, prtriole ro either retitar
R9
lt, ris a r e ist ed ion p a q j q
e ~
l i< >nal u g ij
t uq A] tildd
rind i
d ihq•! ' týt
Garment Filling
Tunie and
01>0 rqx
s tii-fung 1,
is U d !i'i•at
lie
t
ei•it in/ l!
xhnian
iuIC [lt
S or
,
muslin s'lhs f'o Iria]l
h'ir'qrs The lirrmues
th it IIIf V!-' ItS(' d(CýMl y inl lthflc , Nil
t'if
1
the stlil•dhn rWin I( ripped(ilt
in seconds if
ddtuljU i
ts itr(l
At r(1± tSAr-
Construction Guide Lines
.......
Growth and Shrinkage Tucks
T lj(k5671
I Fr(1qu(!ll0[V1)1,1 iuji
t rlm
l, 'ild dl!!'J (olý , . ,•
] ýJ"
].
l ' f"
ehilds,
+
]a many instances, construc-ton quide Ines
for pockets, but tol nh]les, atild
oher detals
can be advantageously marked kUIh dhainslitch basting. The studsinq will qive clearly
defined line marking. Yel, unlike dialk or
pins, it will not rub olf or becomie lst as the
fabric is handled, This method lerid itself
particularly to use on wools and other fabrics
that do not retain needle penetrations.
----
y
ItJill .......
fi'r
ik
riowilt -i, I hii
ir iirinkijq,
t,(Io nit
tlo ly"is no I ln r '!
r l i,chr
11f ttilks tIrt
diistidl~diet NSi11116l urhodk Ilhe
I1s looIp f
' 11a1i! tilted
Iuluthea
iI
,it
the luit
44
~
jt
Attachments
Note: The attOcmrntnts whidc ore not regularly furnished
with your madcine are available for separate purdcase at
your local SINGER SEWING CENTRE.
45
sp~i! ft". Poo
This light, flexible foot is designed for satin and decorative
stilding. It provides maximum visibility anti manoeuvrability
while allowing closely spaced ziq.zag stithies to feed freely.
The eyelets in the foot accomodate a filler cord.
The special presser foot is ideal for accurate placement of
satin stitching in buttonholes, monograms, motifs, applique
work as well as for cording.
SUtic
Pattern Seledors: AL
Buttonholes
Stitch Width Selector: See below
Always make a test buttonhole on a sample
of your fabric Be sure to duplicate the thickness of the gfarmeent and include interfacing
if appropriate.
You will need two stith width settings, one
for side stitching and one for the bar tacks
The (hiee possible settings are shown below
Throat Plate: General Purpose
Presser Foot, Special Purpose
S
Stidt Length: More than 20 sttches
3
46
4
5
1
4
2
3.4
~I
Marld
I
I
Lin"
.t~~ Space
Cuwugt
u
Sabl Sttldiddg
Buttonhole Length
First, decide how long the cutting lengith needs to he, (the opening through which hie button
passes). This will depend onl thle diamneter Cond thkidness of the button, To find the right lengtlh,
cut a small hole in a scrap of your fabric and graddually enlarge it until thle button slips
through easily. The length of the finished buttonhole will be the cutting length plus 1/a inch
(3 mm) for each bar tadck
Then mark the buttonhole on the fabric as shown above.
The procedure for making a buttonhole is described on the next page.
Raised Or Carded Buttonholes
Both fine pearl cotton (size No. 8) and billionhole twist make suitable
raised buttonholes.
filler cords for
Place the spool of filler cord on the sec ond
spool pin. Lead the cord through thre fuist
thread guide, straight down betwev
len
then-c
Ire and back tension disc, into the largle
thread guide and then through the eyelet on
the special purpose foot. Draw the cord under
and in back Of the foot and proceed as for
regular buttonholes,
47
Sftiohin Procedure for M~j) a salA0e
Set stildx pttemn selectors
on AL and stitch width
selector on setting desired
for side stitchiag of buti tonhole. Place work under
needle, aliing
Centre
marking or buttonhole
with centre score line of
C 56
C
special purpose foot.
Side Stlching: Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower
foot and stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric
at point B, Raise foot and pivot work on needle, Lower
loot. Take one stitch without changing stitch width selector
setting, bringing needle to point C.
3
J
5
1
2
3
4
5
Bar Tackt Adjust stitch
width selector for bar
tacks and take at least six
stitches. Stop at point D.
1
2
2
.
D
EI
Side Stdtilngt Readjust
stitch width selector for
side stitching. Complete
work to point E Leave
needle in fabric,
48
E
Fin
Bar Tat(. Adjust
stitch width selector for
bar tacks and take at least
six stitches in reverse,
ending at point F.
Fasteni
Stitch To seaure stitching, move stitch
width selector to I and
take three stitches. Remoye work, draw threads to
the underside and trim.
Cat opening for button
with sharp scissorsý
Applique
Applique odds beaury and interest to wearnq dpparel, hotes and fabric furnishings.
Either contrasting or fabric self can be usqedl
effectirely.
'the st itch most comnmonly used in dppiigueing is a closely set zig-zag stitch (basic
pattern BEL The width of the zig-zag stitc
cdn be varied to acconiodate fabrics of dilferent weaves and textures. Combination patterns and variations can dlso be used to
applique with decorative stitching.
There are two methods by which applique
work can be done. The appropriate method
is determined by the fabric being used, and
a test sample is advisable. Position the design
properly and baste it to the fabric. Attach
the special presser foot to the presser bar.
Method No. I
Set stitch pattern and stitch width selectors
for desired applique stitch. Stitch, outlining
the design with applique stitching. Any excess fabric on the outer edges is trimmed
away after the stitching has been completed.
Remove basting.
Method No. 2
Adjust stitch pattern and stitch width selectors for straight stitching (A K 3). Outline the
entire design with a short stitch. Trim raw
edges to the stitching.
Readjust stitch pattern and stitch width selectors for the desired applique stitch and overedge the design with this stitching. A smooth,
lustrous finish results, which requires no additional trimming Remove basting
Corded Applique
Corded applique, which gives a raised, threedimensional effect, is a particularly attractive finish for lace applique.
OF
Either method of appliqueing can be used
when cording is desired. The only change in
procedure is the introduction of the cord,
over which the applique stitching is formed.
See page 47 for threading.
49
Monograms and Motifs
Many of the decorative stitCh patterns (cn Transfer the design (by tracing, usually) to
be used for tihe creation of attractive monograms and motifs. You can buy designs -or
create them yoursell
Make a sample first, to determine suitability
of stitch pattern and hnd the right stitch
length and width, thread tension, and pressure.
Stitch Pattern Selectors:
BL for zig-zag stlthtlng
See pages 32--35 or stitch chart
for decorative stitches.
Sttch Width Selector:
2-5
(2--3--4 for Combination
Patterns).
Stitdi Length:
More than 20 st:tdhes per Inch
(Less than I
pIm)h
Throa
Plat
Inoneunder
Throat PlateGeneral Purpose
Presser Foot:
Special Purpose
50
the right of the fabric.
If the fabric is soft or loosely woven, baste
a backing of lawn or organdie to the wrong
side.
After stitching, trim any excess fabric close
to the stitchng.
To Find The Beginning Of The Pattern Unit
To reproduce a specific portion of a stitch
pattern, first stitch on a scrap of material
until the desired point in the design is
readied.
Raise presser foot and remove scrap. Bring
motif or monogram into correct position
needle; lower presser foot and stitch.
This procedure is recommended for all precise design placement. Leaves, and flower
petals, for example are created in this way.
Free motion embroidery with hoop can be
seen on page 75.
Seaming Shears
Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL
Stitdc Width Selector: 2
Stlich Length: About I mm
Throat Plate: General Purpose
Presser Fool: Special Purpose
A da ity hairline finish is particularly desirable, for the inside seams of sheer collars,
facings and yokes. Seam allowances that
ordinarily show through are eliminated.
IRoth heavy duty thread and tatting thread
make suitable filler cords (see page 47 for
threading).
Stitch along seam outline (covering cord i
used). Trim seam allowance close to line of
stitching. Turn and press.
51
Couching
Nsovel uff ocl <ii, obl
wdtby>
cowt nqq
vtr~i or bri'd %'IOh dcrmalvel~ stil
tP
patterfl%.
SptIdcI patlt&m>, dto
tfl<*
mo!ppromsr>±tta s
Iithey allls• th dt (oto itývt o,:d lo show •s
ptlrt ol thtf
sigýýJqný
Rhfor to jmgo 17 for throthnkg instructions
Lace Edging and Insertion
D)eh0lcot
•appts
'Ind
I
durable
7ig-fi
atepl<
( 1"r tho
homl
stitridling is
app•f
of
(<1(30(35 mnwtld
edgin
uerhti:ns.
\I..aN
A
52
dot•
alhve stldi pattemns c'nl be used
effeLtively sorvin]q ds both finish dnd trim.
The space between the holes in the button determies the
stitch width settings For buttons with standard hole spacing,
ruse settings I and 4. The number I setting is constant, but 4
can be increased or decreased as necessary to accommodate
buttons with unusual spacing.
Stitch Pattern Selectors: AL
Stitch Width Selector: I and 4
Feed Cover Plate
Button Sewing Foot.
Set stitch pattern selectors at
A L and stitch width at I
Atachi fee(d cover plate to
OiOdi
he.
Position fab ric and
button under loot so that
needle will ent(r left hoe,
Turn hand wheel towdad vou
until needle rises out ol the
fabric and is just above the
foot.
2
3 4
Set stitch width at 4 The
ne•dtle should then enter into
th,, right hole o I the button
Take aipprox imnately six zigzai} stitbhes in this position.
End on the lelt side.
5
2
Knelloorm
3
4
5
To fasten stitching, adjust to
number I stithd width setting
and take approximately three
si tdies,
12
3
4
5
In order to frorin a thread shank, stitch over a regular machine
ncedle. Position button and lower button sewing foot, Place
needle in the groove of the foot so the point enters the hole.
a long shank, stitch over the heavy end of the
53
iiGoiteral Purpoe Foo
•
~
foi with the g]eneral purpose throat plate, this foot provides
a wide noodle slot which accomodate.s allslot(h settings and
c~anl
be used for most sewingJ operatoions.
Applications: Seams and darts, sca~lloping; blindstitca loons;
mending and maintenance.
Lingerie Seams
Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL
Stitch Width Selector: 211.
Stitch Length! About I -- 2 mm
dependingl on fabric
Throat Plate: General Purpose
Presser Foot: General Plurpose
To make a linqero se,ým
ýýcafile and
flexible, first straight stlco
ý)oýi selectors
at A K3) hitted scearil
on wiý 1 ide and press
both seamn allowdlices, to ri,ýýdv. Flom the
w h _qý,c seting
sie,
righ
i,;)stith
ler
h on•
BL 21h, lettingl the nlekd!4 , rnw ~k
the seam line dnd ler!!1
Flat Felled Seams
Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL
Stitch Width Selector: 3
Stitch Length: About I --2 man
depending on fabric
Threat Plate: General Purpose
Presser Foot: General Purpose
For heavy duty, strain pro',t Seams, u-e
double interlocked foamf, zig-fag stitched tin
both sides with seltitng B L3.
Stitch the seam on I te rightt side of the fabr c,
m d osje
ta igflse
Press the seam op(,i, then fuhi and press the
seamn allowanceo o one side, ko epingl the rigiht
side of the stic ({}1rin
top,
Trim the under seam allowance to one-half
its width.
Turn the upper seam allowarice edge event),
over the trimmed edge, and top stildo
54
Seams In Knit Fabrics
Seam Finishes
Stitch
Selectors:2 1.
Stitch Pattern
Width Selector:
Stitch Length: About
o.r 2
Shratd Plaen: Generab put
Throat Plate: General Purpose
Presser Foot: General Purpose
Stitch
Selectors:4 -BL,5 BO or EQ
Stitch Pattern
Width Selector:
Stitch Length: 2- 4 num depending on
dchoice of stitch and fabric
Throat Plate! General Purpose
Presser Foot: General Purpose
Seda•is in (fabrics Him st retid or bids scants in
Sedia
firm fabri(s aroe olen sta yed with seam tape
for durabiliy. Position seam tape with ecdge
exactly on samd lin e, If seam is urved., preshape tape to fit by steam pressing Bast,
tape in place, if necessary Stitch with ine
ziq-vag stitching (B121, allowing neertle in
enter seam tape antd sean allowance alternately Press seamin open after clipping on
curve,
be given a duoable finish if the fabric is likely
to raVel.
Make a test sample first to deteHmisie whe.
thvr ?ig-za{g stirch L blndstich 0, or men
ding sutch 0 best suits yout fabric. Also
adjust stitch length anti wiith settings to suit
labric Choose the settingis that will give you
the Most 'open' stiich ihat will secure the
fabric edges
Avi
htmsh, over-sti(thed
lir
edges
Trim seam edgbes eve By
Place slitchi teta
f
]
b,c•irqe of the scans
allowanrce oi over thin ,
-sl as illustrated
edges support the garimetnand
should
111
Ac
`-4
4--
i ?.
5<
4'•
4-
Darts
Darts provide fit and contour in a garment
and should be accurately stitched. A straight
stitch dart (A K 31 is usually formed by stithIng from the seaam edge, tapering gradually
to the point, where the last three or four
stitc•tes are parallel to the fold. Stitch beyond
the told to 1l0ic a thread chain approx. VI to
'ý inch (20 core it length Tie the thread ends
into a single knot close to the sitiLdnng.
Thread ends at the point of the dart are eliurirnated when the single thread principle i%
employed Unthread needle arid with Lhread
leading through the throat plato front bobhin
rethread needle from back to Iront. Tie
bobbin and upper threads Ioget her, [raw
knot through all threading points including
d ke-up lever eyelel and tension, winding
on the spool to complete stitdcing
the full length of the dart Take any sladk out
of the threaddby turning the spool. Lower
presser font and stitch Iron, point of dart toward edge of garment section and backritdh
to reinforce,
This m-thod is also ideal for inside darts in
Sheer fabrics.
NOM
.enouqh
Darts In Interfacing
Non--woven imeerfacionqs (an be shaped without bulk with zig-zag stitcding, Stitch pattern
selector settings BL or BO can be used
*Cul
~ends, *
56
out the dart allowance on the stitching
line. Bring raw edges together and pin over
a muslin stay, and stitch, Backstitpl at both
Scalloping
Dainty scalloped edges are used extensively
as Self t rimming on)iblouses, dresses, l ingerie
arid children s clothes,
'I/ inch (3 mm) and clip into the points betwe~en scallops.
Some fabrics may also need notching, for a
smouther, evenly turned edqe.
Stitch Pattern Selectorst
Turn and press.
When forming scalloped tucks, add additional V. inch (8 mm) to tudk allowance for
seaming.
Stitch Width Seledor: 3-S
Throat Plate: General Purpose
Presser Foot: General Purpose
Perfectly formed and evenly spaced scallops
are produced automidtirally at slitch pattern
selector settings BR or BST. Setting BR
results in a 12>sti h ,tallop, and BS() in a
24-sitctd scallop Stitch length regulator a•n
stitch width selector vary the length andi
depth of the scallop.
Place right sides of fabric together (Shaped
or bias edgos should he interfaced. Stitdc
scallop.
After
sti tdclrg,
trim allowance to less than
Wrong side of scallop
Right side of scallop
57
Mending
The multiple-shi ch z g- Jg is welt suited lor at types of ho isehold mending. It forms a firm,
flexible bond for the rel~ir
if rents and tears, and is ideal for the <einforcement and application of elastic Sti:ch lhngth aid width are regulated according to need
Stitch Pattern Selectors: BQ
Stitch Width Selector: 2-S
Throat Plate: General Purpose
Presser Foot: General Purpose
Rends and Tears: Trim away ragged edges.
Place dn underlay on the wrong side of tear
o'r reinforcement. Using multipie-st lid, zig7ag B 0, follow the line of the tear bringing
1hfe edges together. Shorten slitch length at
vilds and corners to give extra strength.
Application of Elastic: Elastic, such as used
in waist bonds, must be Stretched as it IS
applied, to ensure fullness required in the
garment.
Blanket Binding
The multiple-stitch zig-zag B Q is an excellent stitch for applying blanket bindings and
affords both a decorative and durable finish.
Remove worn binding. Baste new binding
securely in place (stitch width selectlor at 5)
and stit. Adjus' presser foot pressure if
necessary, to accommodate the thickness of
the blanket.
58
Darning
With some kill you can easily and quickly perform all types of darning on your mactine For
this purpose you can selectively use I tihe genterdl purpose presser foot 'r 2 the darning
and embroidery foot.
I With General Purpose Presser Foot
Frst of .ll set p eusure at D (rNote
L p(
I
and stitc length it-qulaitr ai 0 IMMI Ný,,
attach beed to'c
Iplate to nourh
bed In
palate of req or Iolroot Plate.
Stitch Pattern Selectors: AK
Stitch Width Selector: 3
Stitch Length: 0
Feed Cover Plate
T iin
Presser Foot: General Purpose
Presser Foot Pressure: Dial Setting D
rto
qqod
dq,, from
irea, to• be 0,
ti1
uretor I*-dte aiil
rito
t
r•....
,,-r loot t,attuloe hc roeedie thretid I ...
I old noodle thiear•loloely with htt hortn
tarn hlnd wheer t1oNait! vt>u This wvill
itro>
bobbin tiread tirwiher with too0i of roerd
threadl op though ohbro- no'd bhoth thriea
ei!nd,
drilllower
into Lbrkc.
f0osi in wor"
Outline opening to be darned with running
stitdies about ", Incn (6 mm, from edge for
reinforce/ment. Sittdi across operIng, nmolvingj
tabr.c at a slight angle to and fro needle.
Run machine at modera'e speed antd guide
fabric with a steady continuou•, movefet.
Slow movement of fabric will produce a short
stitch; more rapid movement lengthens the
stitch.
Fairly long stitches are best for kni' and tricot fabrics so that the darned area remains
smooth and flexible. Short stitches are
for cottons and linens as they upproxis'?te
weave to the fabric.
After completion of domiinc
sure to normnal
work, reset tres-
sethtag
2. With Darning and Embroidery Fool
Ihe s*.tturais o! th•e rh,o1•Tr,
fo~r
thrs type of
hot<irgllan
reý dsccriibod or! padq 74
59
The seam guide aids in attaining uniformity of seam width
when extra control is needed. It provides for stitching to be
spaced at any distance between V. to 1/4 inches (3 - 30 rmin
from the edge of the fabric. It is secured to the bed of the machine in either of the threaded holes to the right of the slide
Plate.
Applications: Seams, blindstitdiing, straight stitching and
decorative stitching.
Straight Seams
Stitch Pattern Selectors* AX
SUtldWrdth Selector: 3
Stitch Length: 1-4mm depending on
fabric
Straight SUkt Throat Plate and
Presser Foot, or
General Purpose Throat Plate and
Presser Foot
Seam Guide
fhbri s Place pins with points toward seam
edges so they nip into fabric at stitching line.
The hugcer] stratigh-t-sb Ict presser toot wjil
ride, hfely over the pin points Guide fabric
edues lightly against guide while stitching.
Curved Seams
and parallel
t
To guide seam stit din straight
to the edge of the fabric, adjust and align
the seam guide for proper seam width,
Curv ed vanam requidre additionalI treatmentri
in handling.
A shorter stitch will provide greater elasti(ity and strength.
Pin seam edges and basle if necessary. Hand
basting can be eliminated on easy-to-handle
Set the sWant uide at an angle so that the
end closest to the needle acts as a guide.
60
60
i
Blindstitch Hems
Stitch Pattern Selectors: BO
Stitch Width Selector: 2-5
Stitch Length: I--2 mm
Basing Cuide I me
Throat Plate: General Purpose
Presser Foot: General Purpose
Seam Guide
Ittilld
t.'(filir
hifid
ewixill'
r 'it oi"il
,0t"
)r
ý! ie
i
[t'
prI
It
iK ellualt
h':Iýt FI'11
l
'S.
I ]Io
oh do,
I(1r10
t
r,; Iit
it
i'111iiii
,i(e, 1n''b"li
,l
t I
t
lii
d
mil
ll'iq
u~,,l- d)
F0
• SI)
i1
*l
Mork turn and P esS herrM ii the ruqal wa;
Place a bast.lq
mgtlde tine npproximately
¼ linch 16 emir) frrnn the top of the heml rlIpe
Place hem edge (to%,r tile iced of the nladil:nQc,
turrning bill of fibrit to thei 1±. a of Pastinu
and thus
t
toat•qt a sloft
"tfn m]i
he]
the" Sot
i P.t, d the fold ligainst
""'p
,"•>
i
trl,
t
F
old
Adjust s alii
duldi
over thi riqht toe <if the
prlý'' 'o Urt il ;L rests n 'xt toi the, Soft fold
t
"'tIh
if
titt•
.ut*
r{
01)l*•freS[l
1 i1lTlIJ/
>
ii
Top Stitching
i"
I
"I
11'l
iv ll
q
-,,•
¼
Wt'll
l
t rfIll',ill
l
'l
pdiC'"Ill or III'l
igt I
* 'vt r
lotI
ticU
iwl p l, o I jil- ( tlhe rows
61
The zippr Foot
This loot has been designed to facilitate the placing of stilching close to a raised edge. The hinged feature of this foot
ensures even feeding over pins, heavy layers of fabric or
cross seams. It is attached to the mactine in place of the
regular presser foot and can be adjusted to either the right
or left side of the needle. Straight or zig-zag stiltc settings
can be used.
Applications: Zipper insertion, corded seams, tubular welting
and slip cover welting.
Zipper Insertion
Stitdh Pattern Selectors: AK
Stich Width Selector: 3
Throat Plate: General Purpose or
Straight Stitch
Zipper Foot
Many different types of zippers are available
for everything you sew There are several
satisfactory methods for insertion. Detailed
sewing instructions are included in the zipper
package. For any method used, the zipper
foot enables you to form an even line of
stitduing close to the zipper,
When the zipper is to the right of the needle,
ft totothe
adjust the zipper
zipper foot
thergtleft of
of the needle.
needle.
When the zipper is to the left of the needle,
adjust the zipper foot to the right of the
needle.
62
Secure the zipper fool to the presser bar as
you would the regular presser foot. Adjustinent to the right or left of the needle is
moude by loosening the thumb screw at the
back of the foot. Check the position of the
foot by lowering the needle into the side
notch of the foot, making sure it clears the
foot. Lods into position by tightening the
thumb screw.
Procedure for Inserting a
Zipper Into a Skirt
Machine baste the placket
opening of the skirt and
press this seam open. Attach
the zipper foot to the machine
and position it to the right of
the needle. Open the zipper.
Place the. ziponer face down on
the seem allowance with the
edge of the teeth at the seam
line. Turn the back seam allowance away from the body
of the skirt, Stitch the zipper
tape to the seam allowance.
Adjust the foot to the left of
thie needle. Close the 7ipper
arid turn it Lice up, Smooth
back the seam allowance at
the edge of the zipper. Top
stitch it to the tape close to
the folded edge.
Turn zipper face down. Turn
work to right side and tiin
in place. Adjust the foot to
the right of the needle. Stitch
a>"
It lower end of the
zipt)er and up to the waist1!m•. Ron•ove bastingH
......
H..
. .
63
Corded Seams
Stitch Pattern Selectors: AK
Stitch Width Selector: 3
ia I cnnd coirnus n a v ari, t> If •,os anld
,lheo
ctiktoed with ai himly u ovn fabi•c,
noakO a woltion( that, I, ai (.ontO>I~tVe 50400
hfnish for .hildrens utlotihs, bloutv;, pillow
stipst tinoo Mt eft-C,
. 11.,s wtoq is prepared
Ilk OdMilltO and Qhc11 IA~lhOd lilt) [h ti~leien.
il
scam
Throat Plate: General Purpose or
Straight Stitch
Zipper Foot
('U{
I~t
•!1 [)
t-i~cr
To make the welting:
Cut
30
litasI
vinlll]
v[Iof
>dl I•: o!
Setw %hips*
WOgcthle
hi'mdnoilo
the Ordsg
rd s:ilr
I,
P's.t>h
APS12
Qho',ssreptr'
and
adjust 1tppel toot t0 theleft
oIf 1
or0
n"W010
•t
Mt
as'drfip ho L[ttower orio nt
fHot SJtioil1],,eIn th}
[ I• 'Ed,
oRd01i]
'4>
• ,
f
1} l
l'0 tu'''t
Cs:ri
ihi11h
>I isjti
toos~
bd~than
k"l P!/ju lap s,,wing
,
a >+tti l o n( oh ih(Jhdv hnrl4 r
appytn
To stitch welting into seam:
W1 It Si teoirg tIto, Wtohrvtg
::!"
5011
theý ?ippor loot1
1,
''411,ted
to the
Z
o-d IIIti,e i e
,,
that
t'C bulk ot the uKti
or
wI'1Iull
to the het
AttKch the weltiirc
to the
ri•ht ostie
oA a ingled Slam
vdtqe,
uoeftih
the
,aovs!ile
lengtith usedt t, InoKe thro W('t
lung. Guide IIhe toot text to
the
I.bt
cor
d ht
dnot crowd
thace
Over
the
attached
We•ting
the smeond seiani edge,
and pun or bttste together.
stitchineg
(ise
first
Keep
uprvd osta.ns a guode and
poes
sn
the
pseam under
the eedle. Statch this time
pushing ihe cod hard against
thes foot,
This method produces evenly
joirnei seam edges and tightly set welting.
v
Curved scares are corded as
easily as Straight sean'Is, ex-V
cept that a shorter stitch
length is used, Since the seamn
allowance of the welting is
bias, it is not difficult to
shape it to the seam.
65
Tim Nii ¸ o Hwi n:
T'ie n irt w hemmer forms and stitches a perfectly turned
h om v ithoui basting or pressing.
Applications: Fine hems, edging ruffles, hemming with lace,
h min-nd seanis and lingerie finishes.
Hemming
Crease a double V/ inch (1imm ftoI along
the edge of the fabric to I f( irro
Ildce
a.
the fabric under the foot L,,v i ae iot and
stitch the creased told for s <<era st':ties.
Hold the thread ends with the l it ind and
guide the raw fabric edge in rot, of the
hemmer evenly into the st roll.
Sew slowly, still hcldin
the hem is well started.
lifre,
SUtcd Width Selector: 3
Throat Plate: Straight Stitch
Nanow Hemmer
e "s until
Soft fabrics will enter tat scrti t,
the foot down; firm, cri-4
Aite-i Is
foot raised. Even feedin7 is cssq liial
hemming. The same width of fat tio
kept in the scroll of the [e Umil _t a
A little practice will result in p rKc(
med hems.
66
Stlt& Pattern Selectors: AK
;t with
ith the
o good
vust be
times.
ly for-
Hemmed Seams
A hemmed seam is applied where a fine
narrow seam is appropriate, Allow a scant
t/4 inch (8 Ilml)
sealn allowance. With both
sides of fabric together, place upper layer
approx. 'Is inch (4 iamm to left of lower layer
Insert two fabric edges into hommer and
proceed as for plain hem.
Decorative Hems
If you use the henmmer foot and choose a
zig-zag Stitch pattern, you can turn and decorate a narrow hem in a single operation.
This time-saving finish is especially suited to
ruffle edges, aprons and lingerie finishes.
Stitch Pattern Selectors:
Any basic pattern
Stitch Width Selector: 2-5
Throat Plate: General Purpose
Narrow Hemmer
Follow same steps as for plain hems.
Hemming with Lace
Stitch Pattern Selectors: DL
Stitch Wldth Selectcr: 3
Throat Plate: General Purpose
Narrow Hemmer
Lace Applied Over Hem
Fold and start the hem in the usual way.
Starting about I inch (25 mm) down from the
end of the lace, place the salvage under the
needle and lower needle to hold lace firmly.
Raise the foot slightly and slip the lace
under the back portion of the foot, without
disturbing the position of the fabric. Stitch
with the rght
slowly, guiding the fabrr
hand, the lace with the le t, Take care not
to stretch the lace.
Z
Lace Applied Under Hem
When using lace underneath the fold of a
hem, the procedure is th same as when
making a hemmed seam. Slip the lace in
from the left as you would the second piece
of fabric. This method is used where a neat
finish is desired on both sides of material.
67
Bin der
b
ab
= Scroll for unfolded binding
= Slot for folded bias tape
c = Adjusting lug
d = Guide pins
a
Th> hinder is used to applyl contnoercial htndtinq ai well
Ussri-flic
h~os h,.an unfinished
edge, The, colorful trimnuon
is attractive 'stun appii>d to duildlrens tlothes. apr'ons, cult•ins
etc. It is d practital hrnish for scam edges,, 'ha t ra wid
n tor indkinu bhind se.mS Straight
stitcl, plmai zztg-vc
or declorati'v zltzag s ttings con he used.
Stitch Pattern Selectors: Any settings
Cmo binding diagonally to form a long point
Commercial 1,nding is inserted ftonm the
right into the slot for folded bia, tape of the
Stitch Width Selector: 2-5
scroll Unfolded bias Wo/s indi f24 mn)mwide
Throat Foot
Plate: General Purpose
BTnder
68
is
inserted
intoendthe
binding
at the
of opentng
the scroll.for unfolded
I OIT,
o
a it,
, -, of i hV S ,iti"1
lnsdd
1
hdI'1 5,
't
tnam
Curves
.<>
n d lh idt
Siro
t
I.,d:II
-it,
j'
iý
nw
ak< 'n
'1!:
a"trio<roll
trl e(" nl•)• ,
I;-I\
>,
K
"
Iw
II!h
j
h ý1ý*
1
¶1r
i
o
As
n
ita> dol
,p
1,"!
r•,
K,( en
(dn'.'u
Oulsid
w 1w
a
q t!
.f
e
:t
h
f4
Preser Foot For Overedged Seams (Stretch Stitch)
The overedged seam is particularly appropriate for use in
Thread Guide
construction of garments made of knit stretch or elasticized
fabric. When using the spec al disc No. 22 together which the
overedged presser foot, seams that stretch with the labric
can be joined and finished in one operation.
Make a test sample first to determine the
Stitch Pattern Selectors.
C - Special ony
Stitch Width Selector
5cate
Stitch Length: Up to IS ra
Presser Foot Pressure. Light, 2-3
Special Disc: No. 22
Throat Plate: General Purpose
Presser Foot for Ove edged Seams
70
suitability of an overedged seam in the construction of your garment. Be sure to duplithe gra n of your garment in your test.
Adjust stitch length, pressure and thread
tension accordingly. Cut and fit garment in
the regular way, using an approx. '/, inch
(15 mm) seam allowance. Baste fitted seamn
line,
Trim seam edges evenly to 'It inch (6 mm)
from seam line basting. Place trimmed seam
under the presser foot so that the bulk of the
work falls to the left and the seam edge to
the right under the presser foot thread guide
(see illustration in left top corner).
Stitch, guiding fabric up to the inside edge
of the thread guide so that the straight
stitches fall on the seam line and the zig-zag
stitches over the seam edge,
The Ruffier
b
Otadw
ornt
offers a simple aad Effe-ti.e
zai .I rla", gathered ano pl• ted ruffle
ftPil4s mnil Li made separately or ;i~dd a!)d
PDYird at I'esame time. The ruffier I; a!adiledi to ite mahdirie in place of th, regular
Pre.rmser foot a,"d is used with a stlairqlt stit,7T1
ad
d
Inrg ot
Orie
Tlie Yuffl.nr blade and the sepflrair blade
ar( of blue stdel and hold the m.e itl to be
ptl~hend hetween them. The rulf.ing b ad&
f)r;ns he gathers or pleats by carrylng the
fab ic to tif needle according to lip, spacini
and fullness r which the ruttler Is .e!tuste .
The spa re tr guide is slotted to tlaide sea-p
edqes evenly and to separate the Tuffle strip
Irom tht material to which the *Jlf!e is at
tadicd.
@
h
g
a
b
c
d
e
i
g
h
f
=
=
=
=
=
Prtsser Biar Seat
Arm Fork
Adjusting Lever
Adjus'ing Finger
Adjusaro. Screw
Separitor Guide
Ruffling Elade
= Separator Blade
To Attach The Ruffler
Raise needle to its hiighest point. Attach ruffler to machine n place of regular presser
foot. locating ruffler on presser bar w th fork
arm over need e Clamp screw. Securely
tighten both presser bar and needle clamp
screws
To Adjust The Ruffler
I. The adjusting lever sets the tffter for
gathers or pleat
The number I space
setting is for gathers and p aces fullness
at every stitch, Numbers 6 and 12 are
space settings for pleats, so ciig them 6
or 12 stitches apart The s a is for straight
stitching and is used
gathers or pleats.
who.r
grouping
Sh11& Pattern Selectors: AK
Stltch Width Selector: 3
Throat Plate: Straight Stich
Ruffler
2. The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of the pleat. It is
thrown out of action by turning it out of
con act with the adjusting screw.
3. The adjusting screw regulates the fullness
of gathers or pleats. When turned inward
to its limit with the adjusting finger in
p ace, the attachment is set for its deepest
pleat. When turned outward to its limit,
with the adjusting finger out of action, the
ruffler gives only a hint of fullness.
71
Gathering
,, a Is
u qle[II e r ,n
( d I;oIi
di~ sltoof finqer I04
I! I of"I 1
i i I45
I11'
iOkm
oft flL .I
I
Ir
lltO , ill Ioid[
. il'u
.
T
S't
sh~~,
andIi!{
,ls
,
leloph
iot*Wd)ht
tý
SIt
riffle fuInn s
[t I OWi
Si I
4
WOt 4'6614 00i rltli
";ilt)"( c
a
r iuv!ri
tu
I l:1
d4
)
]1
;IV. I
0ua] ,tnii ol full.
I t I*,1no'>
10I hs tiH
rttaching Frill- stitch trio'
it>
ir
v
ik e, lruffte tulle (l,
.IP!1
'55S
sRigh
Ii
a
fiofer
hoot
to tfiacihtv ,ie
hil
ltild
i [
t
Rutting Matrialt
-
>t,
*
Attaching Frills
Irl,
'rip
;t
, 1,44 nil
a
umhtgial Material
=Gairravat
72
oldo
Itun
il(p4
to bie rqntlied~ iel woen blue h>
(hf< igh
the4
In4-1
lo irisltr qulej
14444
>le[( -Ind PII (oAmoi
II
toIc<½'eerserPreepecl as lior plain4 galt> ring
Right sides1 of fnnri<- are placed ti fle'tIe
i
IPill to thne i'> 'to
whewn Ifh ear ;4,1'
Pleating
YKI
N
for
u
n
plemt
5ulc
ad~
(I
54
sA1
hhf
St
aO
44
ho
r~fI
,
!
m.
the' fleas>
,-pm,"
0-
pn
sea
h 04 to c-om
aprl
trt),
<'Hwr 6 mo 12
ýA4at 1
of~ Lnov! And
tA
mnýrutt,
54mtOy tinward ft 4 its>
Ihteov
m
NO
4' '1tO
~p
N¾)m
!Idd
piatcs
tHie
,
Ikl(:f~
Arah
>,,ft4
iinfl
p-W
o>.ur-
a
>r A k
te
>4V'tqjs
MA
'oft
u(
plemts
!he <r'>sq'tpy iroo Note
(.nfoed
tab,>>»
Wiitch,
N adite
ar Who, q20d su,rl A doew swat)
Iis
to th~e IrUfff*r plado
lakro;
lq rxt
Croup Pleadinq
thoft
alio6
Pt, 144f'
o,-ow
qmp4
her of sthrfies
Id o
ptn <fll
[mu6 "1 I0
:i,,
P-m
dIs'
ty roIofl
sK4chir-o
kt
alo
73
Darning and Embroidery Foot
'Thi,
)(1r. .i(..,.
Is i ait] t') all who cid,ire pe fecto' i t,
corniaq am
ut *1 roids- wor..k, The fo~ot firmly i-ni1(
enters anid rises from lh~e *'nri k
r- mad
hoc faiici'u
wbilc uL' itk -mhr ttle I.ne of design to Iet followedi
Stitch Pattern Selectors: AY
SUtit
Width Selector: 3
Stitch Length: Less than I mim
Feed Cover Plate
Daining and Embroidery Foot
-it ragge I edges from area ao ie ddrned.
"Jo i•ection can be 'ixed into hoo)lp. tilt
!
s a t absolutely necessaly,
'It li fle d over plate liul cat ne beod in
paf, :4 regular thloat plate.
d Irning and eatbroidery foit on t ps1 "t
r .Jlb
i~ li~ltng finger over n'erlle ciaimp
r r at
ice lurther steps of this sef mi opciatior
.i e thl satel(, as fll (fda111rninj
tiln geterA
iirpot se presser toot free to page 59)
UIln adhine at. moderate speeon ntd gutide?
bri
w il
ti a steady
d Continuous tlovullwttt,
*imw movement ot
tabric
will prodnee
i
a
hort stitch; more rapid rmovemient length(en s
*we stitch.
Fairly long stitdces are best for knit and trit Fabrics;
'
short stitches are best for cottons:
!ad linens as they approximate to the weave
ffabric.
74
Free Motion Work Wth Embroidery Hoop
Stitch Pattern Selectors: DL
Stitch Width Selector: 2-5
Sttch Length: Fine (less than I ram)
Feed Cover Plate
Presser Foot: None
Script monograms and embroidery can be
effectively accomplished with the zig-zag
stitch when the tree motion principle is employed.
A test sample should always be made before
proceeding with the actual woik to determine stitch setlting and spacing. Some fabrics
may require addition of an underlay of crisp
lawn and organdie.
hand wheel toward you and drew bobbin
thread up through fabric. Hold both thread
ends and start stitching.
Move hoop slowly, following outline of design. Maintain an even rate of speed so that
stitches are uniformly ipaced.
Slow movement of hoop reoduces a close
satin stitch; more rapid movement lengthens
the stitch and resuets in an open effect.
Trace or mark design on right side of fabric.
Place work in embroidery hoop large enough
to encompass entire design. Be sure fabric is
hold taut. Position work under needle and
lower presser bar to engage tension. Turn
Free motion work can also be done with the
darning and embroidery foot. This foot is
particularly suited for stitching smooth heavy
fabrics since it assists in controlling the stitch
as well as in a, proper guiding of the fabric.
75
v
Applications of t
Cylinder Bed Feature
76
76
7577
V
,
/
----- - -- - -- - -- -
Casng For~four Sowing Machine
Your sewing machine is a fine yet sturdy precision instrument
and it will serve you perfectly for miany years if you take
a few simple steps to keep it in good working condition.
How often you will need to clean, oil and lubricate the machine will depend on how often you use it and where you
keep it. The following general guidelines aSSUMe that YOU
will be sewing two or three trios a week. But if you use the
mactine continuously, clean and oil it daily, Or, if you keep
Every Week Or So
-
with a soft cloth, clean:
a, Tension discs
b. Take-up lever and *hreac guides
c. Presser bar and neec.!1Ž bar
d. Bobbin case (for instructions on
removal,
see page 81)
Mactine surface
If necessary, dampen the cloth to clean the
mactine surface. Do nat use detergents.
-d
f
With the lint brush that comes with your
mactine, clean:
e. Feed dog
I. Bearing surface for throat plate
rq Rotating hook (area uinder throat plate and
slide plate)
After each cleanuill aiply a drop (but no
more, than a droo) of SINGER* oil to the
hook raceway (gi, Thec Pew a line of stitchting on a scrcap of mate ial to remove excessive oil
To Remove And Replace Bobbin Case
To clean hook raceway, remove bobbin case
as follows:
Open slide plate
nd remove bobbin and
throat plate.
Unlock bobbin caso by liftitig and pulling
holder to right as shown.
Remove bobbin case from machine.
Remove all lint, fluff, loose thread ends or
any other foreign matter by means of lint
brush.
Replace bobbin case so that groove under
tension spring fits on hook raceway and fork
of bobbin case straddles positioning finger
4
A.
8
%
N
Push bobbin case holder to left as shown>
un,il it snaps uown into lock position.
Replace bobbin am. throat plate and close
slide plate.
4
4
•jl'-I
9•
it
*1
62
•
,.•,F .
i•
.• • i
i
"
Every Few Months -
Clean and ol the machine thoroughly, Use
SINGER oils and SINGER lubricants only,
which are availalhe for purchase at your
SINGER SEWING CENTRE Both are e-xtra
quality products, especially prepared for
sewing machines
*
Clean And Oil Area Behind Face Plate
Clean and apply a drop of SINGER oil to
each place shown You will find this
easier to do if you remove the top cover
first
*
Also, apply a drop of oil to the hook
raceway.
-over (and cylider cover), The motor
requires no lubrication. Oiling of the motor can result in its burning out.
After oiling sew line ecstsrfungon a scrap
of material to remove excess oil.
If the machine is to be stored away for an
indefinite period of time. a thorough brushcleaning to remove all traces of lint and
fluff, followed by swabbing of all exposed
parts with a lint free brush saturated with
SINGER oil, is necessary to protect against
rust,
"
Clean And Oil Top Of Machine
All spats to be oiled are shown in the
illustration. Do not oil gears, but apply a
small amount of SINGER lubricant to
them as indicated
* Clean And Oil Bottom O Machine 8,f(.r
to illustration on page 841,
Tilt machine back and remove screw B,
being careful not to lose washer, and
remove bottom cover from underside of
machine. In case of class 670 machine, also
remove screw C and cylinder cover Clean
and oil each of the places indicated. Gears
are to be lubricated only. Replace bottom
To Remove And Replace Top Cover
Move take-up lever to ifs lowest point ReBen
hand
Move sarew A n liftsrigt
move screwlA and liftright hand end of
cover slightly and slide toward leftand off
the mnachine as shown on illustration below.
Replace cover by positioning it on top of
mahine with a slight overhang on the left
sidt, slide cover to the right unfil it locks
r "iaute Replace and tighten screw A.
A
83
Class 650 Ma&in.,
Class 670 Wiaddso
84D
Remember to
" Position needle out
of fabric when making
stitch width and stitch pattern adjustments.
" Clean your machine periodically, especially the bobbin case and hook raceway
areas,
* Use your Instruction Book. It was written
to explain the most efficient way to operate and use your versatile SINGER sewing machine.
Sewing Difficulties?
Keep your machine in good working condition by following the easy at-home-care steps
outlined in this Instruction Book, and it will
serve you perfectly for many years.
The non-observance of some details may
lead to thread breakages. In such a case
check:
" Is the machine properly threaded?
*
Is the spool positioned correctly? Is it
securely tightened by the correct thread
lead-off so thnt the thread can unwind
freely from the spooiW
" Is a Catalmogwt (5IXl needle correctly inserted and securely tightened in the
needle clamp (with the long groove to.
ward you)?
* Is the needle free of damages?
*Is
the thread suitable for the size of the
needle?
" Is the needle-thread tension too tight?
* Is the thread flee from knots?
" Is Ihe bobbin-case and hook raceway
areoa frt of lint and loose !tread ends?
85
Key Word Index
Cylinlder IP>.
Aupphiirofs
IUitS
briln.,n
Dt
.
4,49 Dv or a Iyve -f
Applihqmu
i t11t11
I
A
. . .
I 'd
Plsd[
I[
DtVC 01dlit %C Stit (Jd[I
TIt.,s
',mdk
aned i11
I
r
53
E;n t1
74nh EinnbtnnOn
Se,, inq 1in
FI
> n,,,
\\ rk
[G (~•,
d
ut
IO
u
74
I
n -jlibiTlhd,
,
73
v %\oik
ýt Pla4
h]{.
\ oiDk i%fll L',l
\I$1(
M
Ii,ilon
; m !I
dot~r t(
it
\ln
nreie
1
hut
,
I
i
andl S
Trv i
i
lie
h<
Vw
l
no
I it:
666
%!
i
[
54
I
fin6
11111
II
56
0
. . .
00
,,
a - l!
1
I) lýtl ý
io
6th
t
BI
1
0
Z'I:P~al
'9
iCl
F
.1
14'
,11
15L:ciIo
Page
Presser Foot for Overedged Seam.
(Stretch Stitih .
Presser Foot Pressure
Settings and Adjustments ..
Principal Parts of Machine
70
..
15
4, 5
27
Regulating the Thread Tensions
Removal and Replacement of
Light Bulb .,. . . . . . . . .
7
Needle ...
. 16
Presser Foot
.
14
33
.
Special Disc . . . . . .
14
Throat Plate
Reverse Stitching
12
.....
Ruffler
Satin Stitching
Tension Adjustment
Stitch Length Adjustment
Scalloping
Seams
Corded Seams ....
Curved Serms
Decorative Stitwding
Flat Felled Seams ..
..
Litngerie Seams
Overedgled Seams .
..
71
..
31
3..
57
..
.
64
60
32
.
.
.
.
5..
70
Practical Stitching
.
.
.
.32
Seaming Sheers ..
.
...
. 51
Seams in Knit Fabrics
..
.
55
Straight Seams ....
...
22. 60
Zig-Zag Stitching ....
29
Seam Finishes
55
Decorative Itlems .,...
67
HIemmed Seams
...
66
-lemming with Lace .
.
..
67
Scam Guide
60
Settings
Needle Position
..
22, 30
Needle Thread Tension .....
15, 27
Presser Foot Pressure .
......
15
Stitch Length ...
.
12
Stitch Pattern. ....
10
Stitch Width
It
Sewing of
Buttons
53
Cord ..
..
52
Elastic ..
58
52
6
62
..
c
ltulties...
85
Sewing Light, Removal and Replacement
of Light Bulb
.
Special Purpose Foot
Spool I folder . . . . . . .
Stitch Length Regul,or
Stitnh Pattern Selectors
Stitch Width Selector
Straight Stitching
Equipment
Setting
..
Stitch Length
Sewing a Seam ...
With Two Needles
Straight Sti ch Presser Foot
Stretch Stitch
.....
Threading
7
.
46
.
17
12
t0
.
.
I1
22
. 22
. 12
24
. 36
13, 22
.
...
70
..
BobbinC
Sin
N
wo Needles
...
....
Pae
Lace
Lace Tape
Zipper
S,.ing D:f
pe
20
.
..
.
W th Built-in Needfle Threadet
.
Treadle Drive..
....
...
Connection of Sewing Light
..
.
Replacement of Belt
...
Selective Motor and Treadle Driv.
Throat Plates
.
Removal and Replacement ..
.
Two Needles
Basic Pattern Stitching
..
,.
Insertion
.
.....
..
..
Straight Stitching
.....
.
Threading ....
Upper Threading
.
Welting
.....
.
Zig-Zag Stitching
Adjusting Stitch Length ...
..
Adjusting Stitch Width ..
..
Equipment
.
Settings ....
With Two Needles
Zipper Foot . . . . . .
Zipper Insertion ...
. .. .
.
36
36
21
8
9
9
9
13
14
4.
37
36
37
36
20
64
I1
30
29
30
37
62
62
87