The other

Transcript

The other
At two steps from the sea
THE VALLEYS BETWEEN ANDORA AND
The other
Riviera
Where, how,
when
free copy
enjoy a holiday
in the greenery
of the Ligurian
Riviera delle Palme
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the other riviera
The valleys between
Andora and Ceriale
It is difficult to resist the call of the summer sea, which
seems to have been created specially to refresh the body
and spirit of us urbanized “western people”, to wash away
the stress accumulated during the winter months. It is
inevitable, then, that the clear sea of the Riviera delle
Palme, with its beautiful coast of sandy beaches and rocks
studded with maritime pines, each summer attracts fond
friends and numerous tourists. The Riviera delle Palme,
nevertheless, goes further: to the enchanting hinterland,
close to the sea and very convenient to reach, rich in
environmental and cultural quality and the ideal destination
for those who wish to alternate their holiday between the
blue of the sea and the green of the hills.
It is sufficient to leave the motorway behind and,
after some turns and a few kilometres, you find
yourself in the Other Riviera.
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The
The
The
The
The
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Ar r o
L er r
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ALBENGA
LAIGUEGLIA
CERIALE
ALASSIO
ANDORA
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the other riviera
The Neva Valley and
the Pennavaire Valley
To your left the sea
and to your right...
The motorway tollgate of Albenga acts as a
border between the coastal plain and the
network of the four valleys where water
from the Maritime Alps flows down to the
river Centa and the city. Towards the sea
lies Albenga with its Roman and Medieval
old centre, the agricultural plain, a beach with
bathing establishment, hotels and campsites,
which join the towns of Ceriale at one side and Alassio at the
other. An upwards direction takes you towards the Neva Valley
and the Pennavaire Valley, which rise towards the limestone
crest of Mount Galero and the San Bernardo pass. Beyond them,
the Tànaro Valley extends towards Piedmont.
CISANO SUL NEVA
A bell tower among
ancient alleys
A castle among
olive groves
The hamlet of
Conscente is
dominated by the
perfectly preserved
15th century castle of
the Del Carretto
family, built high
upon the hill.
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Past the motorway tollgate you
enter Provincial Road no. 582
(former State Road 582) that
quickly leads to
Cisano sul Neva, a
stop on the “Road
of Wine and Oil”.
For wine, this is
above all the land
of Pigato DOC, to
which a festival is
dedicated in nearby Sàlea in
September. Further inland and
leaving the main road you enter the
old centre of Cisano, with the
Romanesque bell tower of the
17th century church of Santa Maria
Maddalena. Park in the square in
front of the town hall, Piazza del
Municipio, in order to stroll
among the alleys. A short
distance away from the
centre is the
Romanesque
church of San
Calogero,
originating from
the 11th century.
Golden
treasures
The Pigato DOC
(Controlled designation
of Origin) and other
wines of Cisano can be
tasted at the winery of
Felice Noberasco, at the
beginning of the town
centre and open
Saturday afternoon and
by appointment, or at
Felice Michero in
via Moraire and the
Poderi Bado Crosi farm
in via Benessea.
To find the best olive
oils of the area around
Cisano you can visit
Frantoio dei Fratelli
Pozzo in Conscente,
with the great wheel
of its water- mill in
perfect working order.
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ALBENGA
Two steps away
from the sea
Cisano sul Neva
50 metres asl
4 km from tollgate A10
of Albenga
9 km from the sea
Zuccarello
130 metres asl
6 km from tollgate A10
of Albenga
11 km from the sea
Castelvecchio
di Rocca Barbena
430 metres asl
16 km from tollgate A10
of Albenga
19 km from the sea
Everyone to the table!
The first restaurant for those who arrive from Albenga is
Torre Pernice, set on a hill a little difficult to locate from the
road: it offers hand-made pasta and fresh fish dishes washed
down by wine produced in the adjacent hills.
Meeting is easy to find and convenient for trips to the shopping
centres that surround it.
Meat and fresh fish, vegetable ravioli and take-away dishes are
offered by Ristorante Bar Sport situated in the centre and by
Bar Neva.
Along the ring road you can find Ristorante della Fenice, situated
inside an old-time country courtyard and facing a beautiful ancient
fountain; torte di verdure (vegetable pies) and tagliolini pasta and
ravioli are the house specialities.
In Conscente there is Brasserie U Rundò, close to the sole water
olive-press still in activity in Liguria. U Rundò is found in via
Gumbo, which takes its name from the gumbi (olive presses). In
Martinetto there is Ristorante le Cascate, meaning the cascades
restaurant and so-called because of the small but enchanting
canyon that the small stream excavated
in the rock nearby. Green
pinewoods and meadows
set the scene at Pizzeria
Braceria
Il Peperoncino Rosso in
Cènesi.
Erli
280 metres asl
13 km from tollgate A10
of Albenga
18 km from the sea
Castelbianco
300 metres asl
10 km from tollgate A10
of Albenga
15 km from the sea
Nasino
360 metres asl
14 km from tollgate A10
of Albenga
19 km from the sea
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Cisano
the other riviera
It was the
year 1280...
...when Cisano was
founded by the
city-state of Albenga
to contrast the
expansionism of the
marquis of Clavesana,
who dominated the
nearby Pennavaire
Valley.
The Poggio
Grande
Naturalistic
Area
Cisano lies on the
western boundary of the Poggio Grande
Naturalistic Area, which extends towards
Toirano and the town of Borghetto Santo Spirito
in a typically Ligurian landscape of terraced
slopes, cultivated or recaptured by woods, olive
groves, Mediterranean maquis and 19th century
military forts. All with a sea view.
On foot around Cisano
From the centre of Cisano you can arrive at the
panoramic holy shrine of Santa Croce, passing by Pizzo
Ceresa and the 19th century fort of Poggio Grande. The
fort of
Rocca Liverna, situated on the opposite side of the valley,
is reachable by a path that leaves from Martinetto, the last hamlet of the
municipality beyond Conscente: it is a “military” itinerary, which runs
alongside former barracks and an ancient gunpowder magazine.
Cisano sul Neva
Where, how, when
Town Hall tel 0182 595 026
www.inforiviera.it/blu/cisano.cfm
• Bar Neva tavola calda, via Colombo 33, tel. 0182 595 024
• Felice Michero (wine) via Moraire 54, tel. 0182 595 000
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• Felice Noberasco (eggs and wine)
via Roma 50, tel. 0182 595 025, 348 81 33 174
open Saturday 17.30-20.30, other days by appointment
• Frantoio Fratelli Pozzo (oil, pickles and olives in brine)
via Amedeo 31, Conscente, tel. 0182 595 047, 0182 595 154
Open everyday 8.30-12.30 and 14.00-21.00
• Pizzeria Braceria Il Peperoncino Rosso
via Pineta 1, Cènesi, tel. 0182 20 853
• Poderi Bado Crosi, via Benessea 25, Cènesi, tel. 0182 21 572
• Ristorante Bar Sport
via Colombo 35, tel. 0182 595 323
• Ristorante Brasserie U Rundò
via Gombo 39, Conscente, tel. 0182 595 207
• Ristorante Della Fenice
via Nuova 87, tel. 0182 595 547
• Ristorante Le Cascate
via Piemonte 35, Martinetto, tel. 0182 595 017
• Ristorante Meeting
via Benessea 2, tel. 0182 21 551
• Ristorante Pizzeria Torre Pernice
Località Torre Pernice, tel. 0182 20 065
Zuccarello
The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley
The ancient capital of
the marquis
ZUCCARELLO
Its walls and its porticoes
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Past Martinetto the valley spreads
and the main road continues beside
the river Neva. After about 2 km
appear the stone ruins of a medieval
castle high on the hill and, low and
to the side of the road, a small
frescoed chapel. This is
the road for Zuccarello.
It is necessary to leave
your car in the car park
opposite the door in the
city walls and walk into the village, crossed by two
lines of low porticoes in the Piedmontese-Ligurian
style, which have remained almost intact for over
six hundred years.
Zuccarello was founded
by the marquis of
Clavesana in 1248. In
1326 the marquis Del
Carretto made the town
the capital of his family’s
domain and seat of their
palace, today a private
residence. The castle at
the top of the hill is even
more ancient and its ruins
are reached by a twenty
minute walk from the
centre; it was connected
to towers that controlled
access to the town and to
the walls that encircle it.
When hunger calls...
...you can stop in one of the restaurants of
Zuccarello, all attentive to quality and local
traditions. Under the porticoes you can find
Trattoria Archivolti; outside the wall but still
in the old centre is the elegant Il Torchio; and
to the side Usteria du Burgu; on the main road,
on the other side of the stream, there is Ristorante
da Raspi.
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Zuccarello
the other riviera
A Roman
medieval bridge
Zuccarello is famous for its
Roman bridge, reachable
from the centre by a curving
path. The bridge is perhaps
not Roman but certainly
medieval and among the
most beautiful in Liguria; it
was made famous some
years ago by a cover of
Time magazine.
She was so young,
she was so
beautiful...
Small natural
delights
Almost
midway
under the
porticoes of
Zuccarello,
Alessandra
Guastalla runs
La Bottega del Borgo
(The Village Shop), a
fragrant welcoming niche
where you can buy oil, jam
and other products of the
Neva Valley, where
naturalness is guaranteed
by the organic farmers’
association Liguria Biologica.
The path of Ilaria...
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...is an excursion itinerary that
connects Zuccarello to
Castelvecchio di Rocca
Barbena crossing
Mediterranean maquis,
vegetable gardens, cultivated
terraces, olive groves, chestnut
groves and spring flowers.
It is a gentle, easy walk, about
3 kilometres long, and it can
be undertaken by all.
Ilaria Del Carretto was born
in Zuccarello. She became
the young wife of Paolo
Guinigi, Lord of Lucca in
1403 and died in labour only
two years later: the
monument by Jacopo della
Quercia in the cathedral of
the Tuscan city is dedicated
to her. A historical
celebration each year
commemorates the wedding
of Ilaria and the event is
associated with an art
exhibition.
Good night
everyone!
Close to the entrance
of Zuccarello on the
left, before the
porticoes, is the B&B
of Lucia Risoli, Ponte
Romano, named after
the nearby stone
bridge. Continuing
under the porticoes,
Alessandra Guastalla
welcomes tourists at
Casa Guja.
Zuccarello
Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 79 022
www.inforiviera.it/blu/zuccarello.cfm
• B&B Casa Guja
via Tornatore 59/2, tel. 0182 79 161, 338 888 01 95
[email protected]
• B&B Ponte Romano e Trattoria Archivolti
via Tornatore 139, tel. 0182 79 056, 333 655 2414
• La Bottega del Borgo
(olio, jam, soap)
via Tornatore 71, tel. 0182 79 161
338 88 80 195, open Wednesday and
Saturday 10-13 and 15-19
• Ristorante Da Raspi
via Nazionale 31, tel. 0182 790 371
• Ristorante Il Torchio
via Tornatore 184, tel. 0182 79 000
• Usteria du Burgu
via Tornatore 195, tel. 0182 79 100
Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena
The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley
CASTELVECCHIO DI ROCCA BARBENA
An eagle’s nest
between rocks and sky
Past Zuccarello the Neva Valley
rises in an increasingly
mountainous landscape, where
green is the most dominant colour
and, even though the sea is close
by, it is now out of sight; at a
crossroads the sign for
Castelvecchio indicates a deviation
to the right up steep hairpin bends.
After a small ruined and
abandoned village in the brush,
Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena
appears almost by surprise.
Clinging to the limestone sides of
Rocca Barbena (1142m),
Castelvecchio is a walled village
that has remained intact since
medieval times. Stronghold of the
Clavesana and Del Carretto
families, in the 17th century it was
fought over by Savoy and Genoa.
A Mediterranean
village
To sleep,
to dream...
Castelvecchio offers two
modern and agreeable
accommodations: Casa
Cambi is an elegant
B&B-Hotel included in
the “Guide de Charme”,
it has a well-kept garden
of olive trees and
grapevines, and
panoramic views.
Antico Melo is a B&B
slightly outside and
uphill from the village.
Also from here there is
a very nice view
towards the castle and
village.
Castelvecchio is foremost
a Mediterranean village,
even before it is Ligurian:
to grasp all of its beauty
it is necessary to wander
through the “carruggi”, or
cobbled alleys, passing
under vaults and stone
arches, gazing at the
collections of art and craft
tools at Museo del Melo
in via Roma, descending
to Piazza delle Erbe and
observing the cluster of
buildings, in brown-grey
stone that rise towards the
castle, then admiring from
up high the maze of roofs
and terraces.
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the other riviera
Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena
Tales of women, knights,
battles, love...
Castelvecchio is part of a cultural park
dedicated to Ilaria Del Carretto.
Each summer a medieval festival is held
in Piazza della Torre with games and
gastronomic events.
Among the most beautiful
villages of Italy
Castelvecchio belongs to an association
called “The most beautiful villages of
Italy”, which unites resorts of artistic and
environmental value with limited
populations and a well-kept
urban environment.
“Medieval” snails
Historical festivals enliven the
summer in Castelvecchio and offer
excellent opportunities to taste typical
fare such as snails and savoury pies based
on rice and vegetables, accompanied by
wines from the hinterland of Savona.
Three pieces of advice
for the palate
Stroll upwards through the evocative
small streets of Castelvecchio and dine at
Antica Osteria alla Posta, a stop on the
“Road of Wine and Oil”, or at the friendly
Trattoria Malco; in the hamlet of Vecersio
you will find Eber
e Anna,
offering
tagliatelle,
braised beef
with (in season) a
delicate mushroom
sauce and various typical
dishes from the central Italian
region
of Emilia.
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Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena
Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 78 042
www.inforiviera.it/blu/castelvecchio.cfm
Alloggio Agrituristico Antico Melo
(Farm Holiday Accommodation)
via Campo 12, tel. 0182 78 067
329 31 43 795
Antica Osteria alla Posta
via Colombera 3, tel./fax 0182 78 282
B&B Casa Cambi
via Roma 42, tel. 0182 78 009
Ristorante Pizzeria da Eber e Anna
via Maggiore 2, Vecersio
tel. 0182 78 238, 338 88 09 907
Trattoria Malco
via Roma 9, tel. 0182 78 181
Erli
The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley
ERLI
A soft bed...
Land of mushrooms
and chestnuts
Past Castelvecchio, Provincial
Road 582 ascends to the
territory of the municipality of
Erli, towards the watershed of
the Po river and the 957 metres
of Piedmont’s San Bernardo
pass. Its 250 inhabitants live in
14 hamlets scattered among
chestnut groves, orchards and
cultivated terraces; now and
again a bell tower rises through
the green vegetation, here and
there lie groups of abandoned
stone houses.
The sea is just 18 km away.
The salt roads
The salt roads were the greatgrandfathers of motorways:
mule tracks that departed from
the Riviera, ascending the
Apennines and descending
towards the centres of the Po
Valley plain. On the coast salt,
iron, anchovies and oil were
loaded. These goods were traded
in the markets of the Po Valley
for grain, cloth, tools, wine and
meat.
Barbarians
and Romans
Founded along the ancient salt
road, of which remains a
Romanesque bridge, Erli was
probably a station for the
changing of horses.
White polenta with
leek sauce
Ingredients: 400 g of polenta flour,
4 leeks, 150 g of ricotta cheese, a few
potatoes, 1 cup of oil, 2 tablespoons of
sour cream, salt and pepper to taste.
Preparation: clean the leeks and, using
only the white part, cut into rounds then
boil in abundant salty water.
Add the flour and, mixing well
continually with a wooden spoon, cook
the polenta keeping it soft. Meanwhile
dilute the ricotta with the cream and boil
the potatoes (peeled and chopped into
not too small pieces). After about an
hour the polenta should be ready to pour
onto individual plates, at the centre of
which you must previously put the white
mixture of ricotta and cream.
Add the potato pieces, sprinkle with
pepper to season and drizzle over some
extra virgin olive oil.
Following the main
road upwards, here
called via Piemonte,
you can find the
hotel and restaurant
Lisetta.
...and a
tasty sweet
Honour of the old
Lisetta and also of the
close-by grocery shop
of romantic, out-offashion style, are the
fragrant and tasty
Erli amaretti, quite
recently enjoyed
by Pope John Paul II.
Fruits for every taste
Here we are at the high standards of Pigato
DOC, but even more than a land of wine, this
is the land of vegetable gardens and orchards,
where some special varieties grow.
For example “pelandroni”
beans, “valeggia” and “siccardi”
apricots, small and with flecked
skin, or “michelin” peaches with
white flesh. It is not so easy to find these
delicacies, but by asking around in the 14 hamlets
you can find the right farmer to buy some from.
Festivals dedicated to
Polenta and chestnuts
The queens of Erli’s dense woods are the
chestnuts, to which an Autumn festival is
dedicated, during which you can also taste a
recipe of Piedmontese origin: white polenta
with leek sauce, also with its own festival
held on the last weekend of June.
11
Erli
the other riviera
Erli: Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 78 030
www.inforiviera.it/blu/erli.cfm
Albergo Ristorante da Lisetta
via Piemonte 21, tel. 0182 78 032
Negozio di commestibili (grocery shop)
via Piemonte 21a, tel. 0182 78 032
Panificio Eddio Basso (bakery, producers of amaretti)
via Roma 2, tel. 0182 78058
CASTELBIANCO
The Dolomites of Liguria
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Go back to Martinetto where to the orographic
right the main tributary of the Neva, the
Pennavaire stream, flows into it, descending
from the 1708 m high Mount Galero and the
1739 m high Mount Armetta in Piedmont.
Pennavaire is a wonderful alpine valley, in
whose woods alder, oak and chestnut trees
rise at an increasing height before giving up
to beech and larch trees, while berries and
mushrooms thrive in the undergrowth.
The fossil-rich, limestone cliffs form a landscape
similar to the Dolomites: and like the Dolomites
it was created by the accumulation of sponges,
coral and madrepores that lived in the tropical sea
covering this region 200 million years ago.
White like cherry
blossoms
The lower
Pennavaire Valley
is part of the
scattered
municipality of
Castelbianco, with
about 270
inhabitants living in
about ten hamlets.
Castelbianco is renowned for its cherries,
wonderful fresh or as jam.
The farmers gladly sell their produce
to passing tourists along the main road
and in the hamlets.
Castelbianco
The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley
Eat and sleep across the valley
The Agriturismo da Ferruccio (farmhouse accommodation)
produces vegetables in season and extra-virgin olive oil with natural
methods and breeds farmyard animals; two hotel-restaurants face each other over the main
road: Gin and Scola, both stops along the “Road of Wine and Oil” and perfect bases for
gastronomic and hiking trips. The cuisine of this territory uses products in season prepared
following recipes at times simple and at times refined but always natural; from Ligurianstyle rabbit to borage ravioli and variously prepared mushrooms (in season).
Mountain
sports
The rocky mountain faces
around the town are a delight for
free climbers; Mount Alpe is also
reachable by mountain bike
leaving from the hamlet of
Veravo.
Another itinerary from the
hamlet of Vesallo arrives at
Zuccarello, in the Neva Valley.
Where the
bees buzz
The mountain honey of
the upper Pennavaire
Valley is sold by
Giampaolo Cariffi at
Veravo, together with jam and olive
products.
The computerized
medieval village
A brief distance from the two hotels, a deviation
to the right rises to Colletta, the “computerized
medieval village”; a beautiful hamlet of stone
houses, narrow alleys, curved arches and short
flights of steps. Colletta has been completely
restructured: on the outside it maintains its old
appearance but, inside, the houses are absolutely
modern, connected to the world across the Internet
and equipped with the comforts of
swimming pools, saunas and
solariums.
An open amphitheatre makes the
most of the terraces built by
farmers in the past.
The “Laboratoio di
Antropologia Storica delle Alpi
Marittime” (Laboratory of Historic
Anthropology of the Maritime
Alps) is housed in an
ancient tower.
Castelbianco
the other riviera
A Castelbianco recipe
Chestnuts dumplings with leeks and zucchini
Ingredients (for 4 people): 200 g of flour, 300 g of potatoes, 200 g of chestnut puree,
4 eggs, salt and oil to taste.
For the sauce: 200 g of leeks, 2 ripe tomatoes, 200 g of zucchini.
Preparation: prepare the dough for the dumplings following the classical recipe, incorporate
all the ingredients and leave to rest, cut the dough and form small pieces that will become the
future dumplings. For the sauce: in a large pan fry the chopped leek and sliced zucchini. As
soon as they are browned add the chopped and peeled tomato. Season with salt and pepper
and cook for 10 minutes. Right before serving cook the dumplings in the traditional way, pour
the delicious sauce over them and sprinkle over a handful of freshly chopped parsley, and
buon appetito!
To feed the body and
the soul
The highlights of the wine
and cuisine offered by
Locanda delle Antiche Pietre
(with Internet-cafe) are its
fresh local farm products and
its ample selection of wines, not
just Ligurian or Italian.
To rest the body
and the soul
The “Accommodation System of Colletta”
offers stays ranging from a room with
services to a suite with lounge to a furnished
apartment with kitchen area capable of
accommodating 2 to 6 people.
Castelbianco
Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 77 006
www.inforiviera.it/blu/castelbianco.cfm
Agriturismo da Ferruccio
via Pennavaire 48, tel. 0182 77 013
open Thursday and Saturday
Albergo Ristorante Gin
via Pennavaire 99, tel. 0182 77 001
Albergo Ristorante Scola
via Pennavaire 166, tel. 0182 77 015
[email protected],
Giampaolo Caraffi
(honey and traditional products)
via Verrano 28, tel. 0182 77 114, 338 42 68 787
Locanda delle Antiche Pietre (restaurant, suite,
wine shop), via Muntà du Bricchettu 3, Colletta,
tel. 0182 778 244, 0182 778 206, 335 381 121
www.colletta.it
NASINO
Where eagles dare
14
Almost at the border with the Cuneo province (a large part
of the upper Pennavaire Valley is in Piedmont) lies Nasino
with its 10 hamlets, some of which have roofs covered with
ancient stone slabs, or “ciappe”, where 240 inhabitants live
among terraces planted with olive trees and the first chestnut
groves of Mount Galero. All around are the true Alps,
where the limestone that forms the mountains created karst
caves where pre-historic man lived (the Arma di Nasino,
one of the more than fifty caves of the Pennavaire Valley,
bears human traces starting from 7000 b.C.) and where birds
of prey nest upon steep mountain faces (some say that there
are even eagles).
Nasino
The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley
Fruits of the forests
and vegetable gardens
In the village you can buy strawberries,
small wild strawberries and vegetables from
Loredana Bellotoma, while in the hamlet
of Beo the Azienda Agricola di Graziella
Silvestri offers home-made specialities:
peppers (from sweet to very hot), pickled
vegetables, jam, fruit juice, honey, oil...
Visitors can glance inside
the kitchen at the
back where
these
delicacies
are created.
This business,
founded quite
recently by
Graziella
Silvestri, is in the process of
being included amoung the stops of the
“Road of Wine and Oil”.
Oil of a high level
Slightly higher than the Costa pub, on the
other side of the stream, you can find the
olive press Frantoio di Armando Garello.
Extra-virgin olive oil is also available at
L’ulivo in via Roma.
Where the pasture is
higher...
You can take one of the paths, which from
Nasino climb Mount Alpe (1056 m) or Mount
Castell’Ermo (1092 m), to the Penne peak
(1405 m) or Mount Galero (1708 m) and go
in search of herds, flocks and shepherds. Enjoy
the view, which on clear days allows you to
see the curved arch of the Ligurian coast,
the Apuan Alps and Corsica.
A pub alongside
a stream
The Antica Osteria Costa,
looking out over the stream
that flows parallel to the main road,
is a stop on the “Road of Wine and
Oil”: the landlady Edda and her son
Corrado offer traditional dishes based
on fresh seasonal produce, such as
porcini mushrooms, black truffle
fondue (this is the land of truffles),
home-made pasta and oven-baked
stuffed vegetables.
Nasino
Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 77 017
www.inforiviera.it/blu/nasino.cfm
• Antica Osteria Costa
via Roma 22, tel./fax 0182 77 002
• Azienda Agricola di Graziella Silvestri
via Roma 67, tel. 0182 77 90 03
• Azienda Agricola di Loredana Bellotoma
via Montello 2A, Borgo, tel. 0182 77 138
• Azienda olearia L’Ulivo di De Andreis G. e C.
(olives in brine and extra-virgin olive oil)
via Roma 91/1 tel. 0182 77 213
• Frantoio da Olive di Armando Garello
via Roma 13, tel./fax 0182 77 020
open from 8.00 to 20.00
15
the other riviera
Peagna and the Albenga Plain
Albenga and Ceriale are each made up of
elegant and scenic hamlets which look out
over the not so distant beaches; places where
the night is fresher and you can breathe in
the fragrance of the countryside: they are the
sea front of the other Riviera, sheltered from
the lively frenzy of the coast and already
offering the pleasure of inland nature, the
murmur of the brook, the freshness of the
trees waving in the breeze, the starry sky.
PEAGNA
Relax in
Peagna
In Peagna you can rest and refresh
yourself out of the old centre at the
restaurant Il Faro or the pizzeria
restaurant La Mela Rosa, right next
to the campsite Camping Ali Babà.
Books
and prehistory
Peagna forms part of the municipality of Cariale
and is a medieval village of colourful houses and
narrow alleys situated 120 metres above sea level
at the limits of the Albenga Plain. At the end of
summer it holds the Ligurian Book Show, which
displays new books from Liguria and rare books.
The “Silvio Lai” Palaeontological Museum allows
the discovery of the geologic history of the region
and is connected to the nearby regional nature
reserve of Rio Torsero, with a rich fossil deposit
of the Pliocene era in a small, dense wood.
Peagna
Where, how, when
Camping Alì Babà Ristorante pizzeria La Mela Rosa
via N.S. delle Grazie 80, tel./fax 0182 990 182
restaurant tel. 0182 931 612
Silvio Lai Paleontological Museum
via Nuova di Peagna 17, tel. 0182 990 024
visits on request
16
Ristorante Il Faro
strada nuova di Peagna 130
tel. 0182 990 176
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CERIALE
ALBENGA
Two steps away
from the sea
Peagna 122 metres asl, 6 km
from tollgate A10 of Borghetto
Santo Spirito 2 km from the sea
Campochiesa 28 metres asl, 4 km from
tollgate A10 of Albenga, 3 km from
the sea
Lusignano 30 metres asl, 3 km from
tollgate A10 of Albenga, 4 km from
the sea
San Fedele 30 metres asl, 4 km from
tollgate A10 of Albenga, 3 km from
the sea
Salea 60 metres asl, 4 km from tollgate
A10 of Albenga, 4 km from the sea
Leca 15 metres asl, 1 km from tollgate
A10 of Albenga, 3 km from the sea
Bastia 25 metres asl, 1 km from tollgate
A10 of Albenga, 4 km from the sea
The “new villas”
of the plain
The present hamlets of Albenga were
founded in the medieval period as
“borghi” (villages surrounded by
a wall) or “ville” (agricultural centres)
by the city-state of Albenga to cultivate
the Centa plain and to defend the territory
from threat. In each there is a clear
medieval structure, made up of narrow
alleys, stone or brightly coloured houses
and many olive groves.
They are surrounded by fertile countryside
punctuated with greenhouses and the
cultivation of purple asparagus, open
fields, brush, Pigato DOC vineyards and
large bushes of yellow broom.
CAMPOCHIESA
The first hamlet of Albenga which you meet
coming from the east is Campochiesa, at a
height of 30 metres: it is a small hamlet,
delightful and secluded. Its artistic jewel,
however, is outside the village, in the
cemetery: the Romanesque-Gothic church
of Saint George preserves important frescoes
including the Last Judgement from 1446
where Dante, Virgil and other characters
from the Divine Comedy are depicted.
Recreation, rest,
refreshment
You can stay at the campsite
Camping Bellavista, towards
Ceriale, or at the Agriturismo B&B il Colletto,
which offers horse riding excursions and sells
oil, fruit, vegetables and aromatic plants. Uphill
from the village, is the Centro Ippico Vetrano
(Horseback Riding Centre). In the plain outside
the village there is Ristorante le Rapalline, and
organic sage can be bought at Azienda Agricola
il Pitosforo, situated uphill.
Campochiesa
Where, how, when
Agriturismo B&B il Colletto
via Cavour 34, tel. 0182 21 858, 335 260 254
www.agriturismoilcolletto.it
[email protected]
Azienda Agricola il Pitosforo di Bruna Gatto
(organic sage), tel. 0182 542 843
Camping Bellavista
Regione Campore 23, tel. 0182 540 213
Centro Ippico Vetrano
Ristorante le Rapalline
Regione Rapalline, tel. 0182 20 340
17
Sàlea
the other riviera
SÀLE
A
Leca
Sàlea: Where,
how, when
Houses with flat roofs, terraced land, tranquil elegant corners
and all the charm of the Ligurian hills: this is Sàlea, at 60 metres
above sea level, the land of Pigato DOC wine. To stay in the
vicinity of this marvellous village head to the elegant and bucolic
Albergo Cà di Berta, immersed in the sun and silence of the
wild countryside, or the tranquil campsite Camping la Pineta.
Excellent local wines are to be found at the cellars of Vecchia
Cantina di Umberto Calleri or the nearby Cantine Calleri with
Pigato and Rossese.
Albergo Cà di Berta
Ristorante Carlotta
via Case di Berta
tel. 0182 559 930
Azienda Agricola
La Vecchia Cantina
di Umberto Calleri
via Corta 3
tel. 0182 559 881
Camping la Pineta
Località Roberti 17
tel./fax 0182 20 493
Cantine Calleri
Regione Fratti 2
tel. 0182 20 085
LEC
A
This is one of the main “villas” of
Albenga, a large, level village next to
the Neva stream. It preserves some
ancient buildings such as the villa d’Aste
with its powerful tower. Above all, it is
the capital of Albenga olive oil.
Oil and more
In Leca you can eat at Pizzeria
Mammamia in the village
centre and then go in search
of excellent oil at the
various oil-mills: all near to
one another are the olivemills Frantoio Marco in the
centre and Frantoio dei Fratelli Revello
and Delfino Golero higher up. Wine
lovers should head for the excellent
vinery Vitivinicola di Luigi Sartori and
its wine bar next to the medieval stone
tower Torre Pernice, at the border of the
18 municipality of Cisano sul Neva.
Leca
Where, how, when
Frantoio da Olive Marco
(oil, pickles, olives in brine)
via Piemonte 152, tel. 0182 20 055
Frantoio Delfino Gorlero
Località Cime di Leca 7, tel. 0182 20 305
Frantoio Fratelli Revello
Località Cime di Leca, via al Piemonte 5b,
tel. 0182 20 197
Pizzeria Mammamia
via Piemonte 103, tel. 0182 20 564
Vitivinicola Luigi Sartori (DOC wines)
Regione Torre Pernice 5, tel./fax 0182 20 042
Bastia
Lusignano
San Fedele
Peagna and the Albenga Plain
BASTIA
At 25 metres above sea level this village lies in a line
upon the ridge of a hill. It rose around a military
fortification whose remains are today part of the villa
Anfossi. Here too are alleys, stone walls, silent small
squares, vineyards, olive-mills...
Out to dine in Bastia
In Bastia there are: Pizzeria
brasserie il Torchietto, Ristorante
Lì per Lì (Ligurian cuisine and
fish) and Trattoria La Vecchia
with rooms available.
Wine, oil…
…vegetables and aromatic herbs
are to be found at Azienda
Agricola Anfossi, Vitivinicola di
Enrico Dario, the adjacent
Negozio del Borgo and Bio Vio
Aimone (organic farming).
A few steps away from the alleys
wine and oil are to be found at
Bartolomeo Maglione; wine
outside of the village at Cascina
Feipu in Massaretti. Cheese from
the shepherd Lo Manto at
I Formaggi del Boschetto.
LUSIGNANO
To the right of the Arroscia
stream, Lusignano is a “villa” of
16th century houses lined up on
a small ridge with small vegetable
gardens behind them, its alleys
and walls are warmed by the light
colour of the local stone.
SAN FEDELE
Moving towards the coast is the
“villa” of San Fedele also with a
linear layout up on a hill ridge.
Lower down, the beautiful church
of Saint Simon and Saint Judas
stands out with its Romanesque
bell tower and the high cypress tree
that watches on it.
Bastia
Where, how, when
Pizzeria brasserie il Torchietto
via Massari 18, tel. 0182 21 395
Ristorante Lì per Lì (Ligurian cuisine and fish)
via Paccini 34, tel. 0182 20 772
La Vecchia Trattoria (rooms available)
via Paccini 81, tel. 0182 20 510
Azienda agricola Anfossi (wine, oil, vegetables)
via Paccini 39, tel. 0182 20 024
Bio Vio Aimone
(wine, oil, organic aromatic herbs)
via Crociata 24, tel./fax 0182 20 776, 335 654 6917
Cascina Feipu (wine)
Regione Massaretti 7, tel./fax 0182 20 131
[email protected]
I Formaggi del Boschetto (cheese)
Regione Boschetto, tel. 0182 20 687, 339 416 7938
Bartolomeo Maglione (wine and oil)
via Becchignoli 18, tel. 0182 20 729, 340 626 8679
Vitivinicola Enrico Dario and il Negozio del Borgo
(wine and more)
via Massari 4, tel./fax 0182 20 548
19
the other riviera
The Arroscia Valley
From the sea, towards the Alps
The motorway tollgate of Albenga acts as the point
of departure towards the longest of the four valleys of
the Albenga region, although the province of Savona
takes up only its lower section. The Arroscia Valley
takes water born on the snowfields of the
Maritime Alps o the sea, rising across
cultivated countryside, vineyards
and woods, pushing the salty air
and the smell of the sea
and of the Riviera towards
the mountains.
ORTOVERO
The wines of the
Arroscia Valley
The Romans among
peaches and roses
The ancient Romans enjoyed the wine and fruit
of the Arroscia Valley, ripened in the sun
of Ortovero, which today has 950
inhabitants. The peaches of Ortovero are
also appreciated in Piedmont. In addition
to orchards there are rose gardens: surrounding the fortified
village of Pogli, founded in 1288, roses of special
characteristics are cultivated in greenhouses.
A Greek vine
naturalized in Liguria
20
The Pigato arrived in
Liguria in the Middle
Ages from Greece, from
one of the Genoese
colonies in Aegean Sea.
It is a white wine with
a golden colour, fresh and
transparent at 11.5°.
In Ortovero the vines were
planted in 1830 by the
archpriest Francesco
Gagliolo, but the wine
wasn’t first sold until around
1950 by the wine producer
Rodolfo Gaggino, at the
price of 300 lire a bottle.
The Arroscia Valley is one
of the main wineproducing areas of Liguria.
At the entrance to Ortovero
you will find the
Cooperativa Viticoltori
Ingauni, the largest
cooperative wine-growers’
association of Western
Liguria. Pigato and
Rossese DOC
from the
“WesternRiviera” are the
stars of the local
wine history.
A worthy Rossese is
also to be found at the
Azienda Agricola Durin,
and other wines of the
Riviera are produced and
sold at Cantina di Franco
Pisano in Pogli. A festival
of peaches and Pigato wine
takes place in Ortovero in
August.
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ALBENGA
Two steps away
from the sea
Ortovero
65 metres asl
8 km from tollgate A10 of
Albenga, 13 km from the sea
Onzo
415 metres asl
16 km from tollgate A10 of
Albenga, 21 km from the sea
Vendone
400 metres asl
13 km from tollgate A10 of
Albenga, 18 km from the sea
Arnasco
290 metres asl
9 km from tollgate A10 of
Albenga, 14 km from the sea
A little art
and history
The hamlet of Pozzo preserves the
remains of an ancient village, a 13th
century castle of the Clavesana
family and a tower. Behind the
remains of the castle the elliptical
and baroque oratory of Saint John
the Baptist stands out, with its
churchyard in black and white
cobbles, known locally as risseu.
The entire village of Pogli is
interesting, with its fortified structure;
still visible are five towers and parts
of the original surrounding walls.
Near the parish church of San
Silvestro Papa, the theatre Teatro
Casone is to be found, which together
with other theatres of the Riviera
delle Palme participates each year
in the theatre season
The sea once
reigned here ...
Evidence of the local
geologic events is the clay
of Ortovero which comes
to the surface near Borgo
Fasceo and is known as
“terìn gianchi” (white soil); it dates back millions of
years to a period when the sea moved very far inland.
This clay is rather rich in fossils of micro and macrofauna.
Ladies and Gentlemen, to the table!
Ristorante Tripoli, where you can taste grilled meat and
fish is situated right in the town centre; Trattoria Vignola
in Pogli serves mushrooms (in season) and Arroscia eel,
together with stuffed dried salted cod, buridda fish stew
and Genoese stockfish. Also in the centre of Ortovero
is Bar d’Utué for quick cold dishes.
And to sleep...
...just head to Hotel Tripoli, of the above-mentioned
restaurant. Elegance and tranquillity, in the heart of the
town centre.
21
Ortovero
the other riviera
Ortovero: Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 547 338
www.inforiviera.it/blu/ortovero.cfm
Albergo Ristorante e Agriturismo Borgo Fasceo
via Fasceo 1 and via Villa 1, tel. 0182 547 310
www.borgofasceo.it
A farm holiday
hotel
Just out of the centre of
Ortovero, surrounded by olive
groves and woods is the elegant
villa of Albergo Ristorante
e Agriturismo Borgo Fasceo.
Around the villa of the farm
holiday-hotel are rows of
vineyards and orchards, olive
groves, vegetable gardens,
breeding facilities for goats and
farmyard animals. Guests can
taste Genoese cuisine prepared
with local produce and
accompanied by the local wine.
ONZO
On the slopes
of Castell’Ermo
22
Continuing onwards from
Ortovero towards the upper
Arroscia Valley, the church of San
Calocero is the scene of a festival
every five years: three processions
join here from the neighbouring
villages.
A winding route climbs the hills of
the valley, which will soon become
a rocky, rugged and extremely
scenic mountain: Castell’Ermo,
from its height of 1092 metres,
dominates the territory of the
municipality of Onzo and its
hamlets scattered among olive
groves and copse woods;
the 240 inhabitants cultivate olives,
chestnuts and grapes, used to
produce Pigato DOC.
Azienda agricola Durin (wine and oil)
via Roma 92, tel. 0182 547 007
open Wednesday from 16 to 20 or by appointment
Bar d’Utué
via Roma 99, tel. 0182 547 303
Cantina Franco Pisano
via Nazionale 8, Pogli, tel. 0182 547 029
Cooperativa Viticoltori Ingauni
Via Roma 1, tel. 0182 547 127, open weekdays
and Saturday from 8-12.30 and 14.30-17
Hotel Ristorante Tripoli
via Roma 42, tel. 0182 547 017
Teatro Casone
via alla Chiesa 26, Associazione Culturale Hanbury
Hall tel. 0182 547 338
Trattoria Vignola
via Nazionale 2, Pogli, tel. 0182 547 023
Onzo
The route of the partisans
Through the Onzo territory passes a section
of the route known as “Fischia il vento”,
after the opening words of a famous partisan
song. This path is dedicated to the partisan
Felice Cascione, who fought among the
valleys of Mèrula, Lerrone and Arroscia
and was one of the authors of the famous
song. Eighteen kilometres of hill pathway
cross the municipalities of Tèstico, Casanova
Lerrone, Onzo, Vendone and Alto. The
view is wonderful, looking over the Maritime
Alps and the sea, farming villages and the
countryside.
the Arroscia Valley
The oil of Onzo
The best place to buy oil produced with the olives
of Onzo is Azienda Agricola di Angela Lungo
Arnaldi, in the hamlet of Costa. Here you can
find oil, olives and olive paté.
Onzo: Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 766 004
www.inforiviera.it/blu/onzo.cfm
Azienda agricola di Angela Lungo Arnaldi
località Costa 3, tel. 0182 766 056
Open weekdays 11 to 14, Saturday/
Sunday from 9 to 12 and from 14 to 20
or by appointment.
For fishing in lake Menezzo(which may
re-open in summer, but it will not be
known until late spring) contact the
Town Hall.
Fishing and
walking in the woods
Hikers who walk up from Onzo to
Castell’Ermo can visit the remains of the
ancient castle. From the summit, a beautiful
view of the surrounding valley, of Albenga
and of the coast can be enjoyed. Those who
23
travel
(by car or on foot) to Menezzo, at an
altitude of 600 metres, can go fishing at the
Vendone
the other riviera
VENDONE
A scenic and open road
From Onzo, it is nice to return towards the coast
following an itinerary cut into the hill-side, in a
setting that winds along the small valleys of
tributary streams of the Arroscia and through the
hamlets of the municipality of Vendone.
This scenic route offers the possibility to take
short breaks for local wine, cuisine and culture.
A castle here and there
The 390 inhabitants of Vendone have their town
hall in Lèuso, however, Castellaro and Curenna
are the most interesting villages. The castle of
Curenna takes advantage of the natural ruggedness
of the rocks upon which it is built, and so do the
fortified houses at the entrance to the medieval
village. The powerful fortress of Castellaro has a
triangular plan in order to make the most of the
shape of the rocky buttress upon which it was
erected.
Olives, olives, olives...
and a few ancient
churches
The landscape of the hills around
Vendone is characterized by the
presence of olive trees. Low down, far
below the bends of the main road, rises the
isolated church of Migliarina. Higher up, towards
the summit of Castell’Ermo, you can reach the
sanctuary of San Calocero, dedicated to a Roman
soldier who died as a martyr in Albenga.
The “Garden of Stones”
In the shadow of the Castellaro tower
there are about twenty large standing
stones, rosy-white and decorated with
lines and geometric figures. They are
sculptures by Reiner Kriester, who lived
and worked in Vendone for many years;
an open-air museum in the
Mediterranean countryside.
24
Pesto
and marjoram
Following the traditions of the
hinterland of
Albenga, in Vendone
pesto is prepared
with marjoram
instead of
basil.
The
reason is
that, before
there were
greenhouses, basil
grew only in summer while
marjoram was already available in
spring.
the Arroscia Valley
In search of oil
and wine
The organic farm Azienda Agricola, in the hamlet
of Catone, has passed through the hands of nine
generations of olive growers and is now managed
by Renzo Bronda. Its olives are of
the Taggiasca and Pinola varieties,
its methods of cultivation are
organic using a small semitraditional olive press. It sells oil,
vegetables, anchovies and tuna in
oil, pesto, Ortovero wines and
“Brondesi” chocolates. In the hamlet of
Crosa the farm Azienda Agricola di
Claudio Vio produces oil, olives and wine
including the famous Western Riviera Pigato
Refresh
the body in Verdone
In Lèuso there is the Trattoria Pizzeria
“l’Alpino”, with home cooking and
farinata (chick-pea pie), while
those in search of rest should
head to the Agriturismo “La
Crosa”, in the hamlet of Crosa;
restored and hidden among
olive groves and cottages, with
a garden and children’s
swimming pool; it sells oil,
aromatic herbs, jam, olives in
brine; if you stay overnight you
can also dine here, tasting traditional
cuisine based above all on vegetables.
Vendone
Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 76 248
www.inforiviera.it/blu/vendone.cfm
Agriturismo “La Crosa”
Frazione Crosa 10, tel./fax 0182 76 331
Azienda Agricola di Claudio Vio
Frazione Crosa 16, tel./fax 0182 76 338
Open Saturday 15-17 or by appointment
Azienda Agricola Renzo Bronda
Frazione Crosa 16, tel./fax 0182 76 253
Trattoria Pizzeria “l’Alpino”
Frazione Léuso, tel. 0182 76 435
Arnasco
the other riviera
ARNASCO
A balcony looking
out over the valley
550 inhabitants are distributed
halfway up the slope in various hamlets, a
landscape rich in olive groves, a tranquil road
that rises through pine trees to a radiant view
of the open plain of Albenga: this is Arnasco,
in the small valley of the Aibeglia stream.
Arnasco probably dates back to Roman times,
and its first populated centre rose in the valley
bottom in the vicinity of the small church of
San Dalmazzo (12th century), perhaps the
oldest church in the Albenga region.
A hiking route takes you to an ancient
Napoleonic fort at a height of 800 metres.
From Arnasco many paths lead to the other
villages of the Arroscia Valley, the Pennavaire
Valley and the Neva Valley.
Oil, wine and other delicacies
Typical Ligurian products are on offer at Collina
dei Sapori, in the hotel Albergo Collina, and
Cooperativa Olivicola, whose sales centre is to
be found next to the Museo dell’Olio, or Oil
Museum, and offers oil of the Arnasca variety,
olives and wine. The bakery and pastry shop Pane
e olio, in the hamlet of Bezzo towards the valley
bottom, is recommended for a break. In Menosio,
among ancient houses and stone alleys, the
Agriturismo “il Carruggio” offers accommodation
and sells oil, wine (Arnasco is one of the production
areas for the Savona Pigato DOC), sauces,
vegetables, eggs, jam; the holiday farm has an
estate of vineyards, olive groves and vegetable
gardens, a bowling green and a solarium.
Olive trees in the fields
and within the walls
The Museo dell’Ulivo e della Civiltà Contadina
(Museum of the olive tree and of rural culture),
right in the centre of the village, tells the story
of the life of this land, in which olives have
always characterized the economy. Inside the
museum is an old restored olive press. The olives
cultivated in the area around Arnasco are mainly
of the Pignola variety, locally called Arnasca.
26
“Pignola” olives
The cultivation of Pignola olives,
named after the Italian word for pine
nuts due to their distinctive taste,
dates back to the 17th century.
Grafting is required for cultivation,
because of the stony and dry soil of
this terraced land. The Cooperativa
Olivicola Arnasco (olive growers’
cooperative) is the sole producer of
the Pignola extra-virgin olive oil.
the Arroscia Valley
Mediterranean cuisine
and a refreshing sleep
The cuisine of Arnasco is centred on the extra-virgin olive oil
of the Arnasca olive. You can take some refreshment at the
simple Trattoria “da Bianca”, in front of the church, or at the
elegant and colourful Albergo Ristorante Collina in the main
square near the museum; or at the Locanda “i Cacciatori” an
inn in the hamlet of Menosio.
Arnasco
Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 761 020
www.inforiviera.it/blu/arnasco.cfm
Agriturismo “il Carruggio”
via Cappella 4, Frazione Menosio
tel. 0182 761 031, 0182 761 182, 335 705 16 25
Albergo Ristorante Collina
piazza IV Novembre 7, tel. 0182 761 022
Cooperativa Ulivicola
piazza IV Novembre 8, tel. 0182 761 178
La collina dei sapori
piazza IV Novembre 7, tel. 0182 761 022
Locanda “i Cacciatori”
piazza Tomatis, Frazione Menosio, tel. 0182 761 018
Museo dell’Ulivo e della Civiltà Contadina
piazza IV Novembre 8, tel. 0182 761 178
visits from 9 to 12 and 14.30 to 18.30
Pane e Olio (bread and cakes)
Frazione Bezzo, tel. 0182 761 290
Trattoria “da Bianca”
via Stefano Viaggio 10, tel. 0182 761 016
27
the other riviera
Lerrone Valley, Mèrula Valley
A ring-road among
olive trees and chestnuts
The two most western valleys of the
Riviera delle Palme are reachable with
a single itinerary, which from Albenga
climbs the Lerrone Valley, descends into
the Mèrula Valley and ends in Andora.
It passes hamlets among woods or city
walls, watched over by churches and
castles, surrounded by hills covered with
olive and chestnut trees.
VILLANOVA D’ALBENGA
Villanova cuisine
Land and sea dishes accompany one another
perfectly in the restaurants and pubs.
Among the gastronomic specialties are
“zemin”, a vegetable soup with basil;
the rarer “ventre”, dried tuna steaks soaked
with pine nuts, and “strene”, biscuits with
candied fruit and raisins, covered with
coloured sugar dots.
F
b
p
A
A “new” town
surrounded by walls
Villanova is the most important of the
walled towns that the city-state of
Albenga founded in the 13th century to
guard access from the inland.
surrounded by walls and numerous towers.
Of the original “villa nova” (Latin for “new
villa”), a covered well with an ancient chain,
at the centre of the main street, also remain.
28
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ALBENGA
Two steps away
from the sea
Villanova d’Albenga
30 metres asl
5 km from tollgate A10
of Albenga
6 km from the sea (Albenga)
Garlenda
70 metres asl
7 km from tollgate A10
of Albenga
8 km from the sea (Albenga)
Casanova Lerrone
250 metres asl
13 km from tollgate A10
of Albenga
14 km from the sea (Albenga)
Tèstico
470 metres asl
16 km from tollgate A10
of Andora
18 km from the sea
(Alassio or Andora)
An agricultural
town
Stellanello
150 metres asl
12 km from tollgate A10
of Andora
14 km from the sea (Andora)
For over a century violets have
been cultivated in the
countryside of Villanova,
packaged including their leaves
and sent all over Europe.
A beautiful
Villanova church
A worthy visit in Villanova
(1940 inhabitants) is to the
church of Santa Maria
Rotonda or del Soccorso,
dating
to 1520. It is one of the
few Italian churches with a
round shape and layout.
An airport town
A road that runs to the right
of Nostra Signora delle
Grazie leads to the
international airport
“C. Panero”, linked to
Rome by scheduled flights
and used by charter flights
and small business and
private planes. The airport
has a field for model
aircraft and organizes flying
and parachuting courses.
Continuing along the same
road you reach the
“Ippodromo dei Fiori”
racetrack.
29
the other riviera
A Villanova recipe:
Villanova-style “ventre”
Ingredients (for 4 people): 500g of dried
tuna steaks, 2 onions,
2 cloves of garlic, 2 pieces of celery,
parsley, thyme, laurel, rosemary,
marjoram, 100g of pine nuts,
6 potatoes, 1 cup of extra-virgin olive
oil, salt and pepper to taste, 2 glasses
of dry white wine.
Preparation: soak the dried tuna
steaks in flavoured water for 12 hours
before the preparation of the dish, chop
into pieces and rinse in abundant
running water.
Stir-fry the finely chopped onion,
garlic, parsley, celery and all the
seasonings; when browned add the tuna,
then the pine nuts, a teaspoon of
chopped chilli, salt and the white wine.
When the wine has absorbed, cover
with the water in which the
tuna was soaked and bring to the boil,
add the chopped potatoes and leave to
simmer on a low heat for 2 hours adding
vegetable stock if the mixture becomes
too dry.
This recipe was kindly provided
by Ristorante Crostasserie
“Buco degli Artisti”.
Villanova d’Albenga
A few suggestions for
the palate...
Two extremely pleasant restaurants are
situated in the old centre: Trattoria Mama
Esther (tastes, smells and “art”) with meat
and fish dishes and Ristorante Crosstasserie
“Buco degli Artisti”, where you can find
Breton oysters, South African lobster and
the dishes of the day including meat,
rosemary tagliatelle...
Out of the walls, towards the inland, is
Pizzeria La Strombata with a wood pizza
oven. Ligurian cuisine is on offer for those
who dine at Ristorante dell’Aeroporto, while
near the racetrack is Ristorante Il Boschetto
and inside the racetrack is Ristorante Pizzeria
Zachiky.
And so to the hamlets: in Coasco, along
Provincial Road 453, is Osteria La Madia,
an elegant inn that offers game, rabbit,
shellfish and truffle fondue. Just before
Bossoleto is Ristorante Pizzeria Claro da
Luna that offers ravioli with rabbit sauce,
pappardelle pasta with sea-food sauce,
grilled meat and fish.
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Other small delicacies
In the old town centre is the coffee shop and
wine bar Est Est Est, where you can taste
farro cream, an unusual emmer-based drink;
just out of the town walls you find the
butcher’s shop Macelleria Enzo Piraldo, on
the ring road, selling their own salami,
Prodotti liguri, a shop specialised in products
from Liguria in piazza Mazzini and the pasta
shop Pastificio Poggio in via Roma. Seekers
of oil should head to the olive-mill Frantoio
Baglitto & Secco, on the road for Garlenda
close to the Airport, where they will find oil,
pickles and olives in brine, or to Angelo
Mantica, who produces Pigato and
30 Vermentino wine, oil and cut flowers.
To
ww
...and suggestions on where
to spend the night
You can book into Hotel Hermitage in
Villanova , also a restaurant, situated among
the greenery at the top of a hill along the
road for Garlenda. Or continue along the
road that goes from the racecourse to Ligo,
where you will find the campsite and tourist
village “C’era una volta”, with restaurant,
in the middle of a sparse wood with a
wonderful view upon the valley.
Garlenda
Lerrone Valley, Mèrula Valley
Villanova d’Albenga
Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 582 913
www.inforiviera.it/blu/villanova.cfm
Macelleria Enzo (butcher’s)
via Martiri 20, tel. 0182 582 951
International Airport C. Panero
Località Aeroporto, tel. 0182 582 033
Maneggio Country Club - horse riding school
Località San Rocco 7, tel. 0182 580 640
Osteria La Madia
Angelo Mantica (typical products)
Località Coasco 24 on Provincial Road 453 tel. 0182 585 084
Frazione Bossoleto 39, tel 0182 582 824
Open Tuesday 15-18 and other days by appointment
Pasta fresca Poggio (fresh pasta)
Caffeteria vineria Est Est Est, via Garibaldi 32
via Roma 51, tel 0182 582 953
Campeggio Villaggio Turistico
“C'era una volta” (campsite and restaurant)
Regione Fascetti 5, tel. 0182 580 461,
0182 580 574 during the winter please
call 0182 582 742
Frantoio Baglietto & Secco
(olives, pickles, olives in brine)
via Roma 137, tel. 0182 582 838
open from 8 to 13 and from 14.30 to 20
Pizzeria La Strambata
via Roma 17H, tel. 0182 582 697
Prodotti Liguri (Ligurian products), piazza Mazzini 10
Ristorante Crostasserie Buco degli Artisti,
Enoteca "Di Rimpetto"
vico Ponte 9/11, tel. 0182 580 093
Ristorante dell'Aeroporto
Località Aeroporto, tel. 0182 585 027
Hotel Ristorante Hermitage
via Roma 152, tel. 0182 582 976
Ristorante Il Boschetto
Strada per Ligo, 1, tel. 0182 580 348
Ippodromo dei Fiori
e Ristorante Pizzeria Zachiky
Strada per Ligo 4, tel. 0182 582 666, 0182 580 641
www.ippodromodeifiori.it
Ristorante Pizzeria Claro de Luna
Frazione Bossoleto, 6, tel. 0182 580 553
Trattoria Mama Esther
vico Lerrone 2, tel. 0182 582 187
GARLENDA
Country village
or an élite tourist spot?
Both of these things: Garlenda, is an
international tourist centre but at the
same time a charming village, where
880 inhabitants live immersed in a
luxuriant countryside of orchards,
olive groves and vineyards producing
Pigato and Rossese. Here perfectly
renovated hamlets with stone houses
and with flowers along the roads, such
as the hamlet of Castelli,
are to be found next to elegant modern
residential areas hidden among the
greenery.
31
Garlenda
the other riviera
Vintage cars
and old calendars
The Golf Club
Garlenda’s Golf Club has an 18-hole golf course,
varied and perfectly fitted into the landscape. The
course is open throughout the year and is almost
6 km long, Par 71; the Club House is equipped
with a bar, restaurant and guest house. In
addition to the Golf Club there are other
high-standard sports facilities such as
the “Riviera” country club, site of
national competitions, with a horseriding school.
A gathering of car enthusiasts from
all over the world comes together
each summer for the
“Raduno Fiat 500”
in Garlenda. A
sculpture by
Antonio Murri is
dedicated to the
legendary
economy car.
Calendars and almanacs in
dialect and Italian from all over
Liguria are displayed each year in
the Costa - Del Carretto castle.
A monumental tree
32
A short distance away from the golf course, close
to the small church of San Rocco, stands the
majestic “u Ruve de San Roccu”, an oak tree
entered in the list of monumental trees of Liguria;
it is 250-300 years old and 24.5 metres high;
its trunk has a circumference of more than 4 and
a half metres.
A little good cuisine
Ristorante Pizzeria Il Frantoio is marked
by an olive tree for those who arrive by
car from the coast. In the centre of the
village there is Rosalina, with a ceiling
of traditional wooden beams, and
Garilinda, in the boarding house of the
same name. Both restaurants have a
friendly, informal atmosphere.
Past the tennis club, in the heart of a
group of stone houses close to a small
medieval bridge that crosses the stream,
is Ristorante Pizzeria da Ingaro with
typical cuisine of the valley, while already
in open countryside, along the main road
that crosses the valley, is the Osteria dei
Bischeri, serving Tuscan cuisine of a
high standard.
For those looking for a touch of elegance,
there is Ristorante del Golf Club,
in the hotel of the same name,
and Ristorante Il Rosmarino,
at Hotel Meridiana.
To spend
the night
For those who wish to stay in
Garlenda there are three possibilities:
the friendly and simple Pensione
Garilinda in the village centre, the
elegant La Meridiana, among olive
groves and vineyards, and Hotel Golf
Club, in the residential complex that
surrounds the golf course.
The towns of wine
While enjoying a delicious meal and a
relaxing game of golf we should not forget
that the municipality of Garlenda belongs
to “le Città del
Vino” (Towns of
Wine) Association.
Garlenda
Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 580 056
www.inforiviera/blu/garlenda.cfm
Centro Ippico "Riviera"
Borgo Villa 5, tel. 0182 582 807
Hotel e Ristorante "Golf Club"
via del Golf 7, tel. 0182 580 012
Hotel "La Meridiana" Relais & Chateaux
e Ristorante "Il Rosmarino"
via ai Castelli 11, tel. 0182 580 271
closed November-March
Osteria dei Bischeri
Borgo Chiappa 23, tel. 0182 582 599
Pensione e Ristorante "Garilinda"
via Roma 121, tel. 0182 580 059
Ristorante Pizzeria da Ingaro
Borgo Ponte 21, tel. 0182 580 525
Ristorante Pizzeria "Il Frantoio"
via Lerrone 56, tel. 0182 582 046
Ristorante "Rosalina"
via Roma 61, tel. 0182 580 064
Tennis Club "Garlenda"
with restaurant
Borgo Ponte 31, tel. 0182 580 048
33
the other riviera
Casanova Lerrone
CASANOVA LERRONE
Hills of agricultural tourism
In the hamlet of Maremo Sottano you can check
at Agriturismo “Gli Ulivi”, which has a barbecue
and produces oil of the Western Savona Riviera
DOP (Protected Designation of Origin). From
here you can wander along a path through the
olive groves. Agriturismo Il Poggio is found at
the summit in Marmòreo; it is a farmhouse
surrounded by chestnut trees on a hill with
wonderful views towards the Lerrone Valley and
the Arroscia Valley. It produces oil and oil
products, wine, vegetables, fruit and jam. In its
restaurant you can sample ravioli, pancakes and
other exquisite home cooking. In the same area
there is Agriturismo Le Macine, on a hill of olive
groves with a beautiful terrace; it produces extravirgin olive oil and vegetables and rears farmyard animals; it offers dishes of the regional
cuisine and local cheeses, “pan frito”, fresh pasta,
rabbit, goat... Still in the Marmòreo area,
apartments in a 17th century house at the limits
of a large olive grove in the hamlet of Roviera
are offered by Agriturismo Santa Lucia, and a
further apartment is on offer in Cà di Berti at
Agriturismo di Angelo Schivo, an olive-grower
and oil producer. In the centre of Casanova,
Moreno Grenna has rooms available.
34
Immersed in a sea of hills
800 inhabitants scattered in
different hamlets at
various altitudes
upon the hill slopes
covered with olive groves
and woods. This is Casanova
Lerrone, whose territory includes
almost all of the upper Lerrone Valley.
It has the typical scenery of interior
Liguria, a territory of beautiful excursions
towards the coast or towards the province
of Imperia, among pine trees and olive
groves or the meadows and oak tree
woods of the Ginestro pass. Among the
old houses rises the castle of the Doria
family, while in the hamlet of Bossanico,
among cypress and eucalyptus trees, is
the castle Poggiolo, with 17th century
rooms and furnishings. One of the hamlets
is Marmòreo, with stone houses of a
beige-grey tone, scattered along the open
ridge towards the Arroscia Valley and
the first peaks of the Maritime Alps.
Degna is a village of ancient houses
grouped together in the form of a cross
under the tall bell tower of the parish
church.
Testico
Lerrone Valley, Mèrula Valley
More addresses for
eating and sleeping
In Vèllego there is the
elegant Ristorante
Pinnochio almost at
the summit of the
valley: here
you can
try snails
and the
local specialities
buridda (fish stew) and
zemin.
In Marmòreo there is the
welcoming Hotel Ristorante
La Pineta and the charming
Hotel Ristorante Primosole.
Delicious cuisine
of the hills
Here the exquisite Pigato DOC
is produced and the rare
Barbarossa grapevine can be
found. Pigato is used to
prepare a dish of rabbit and
wine, a traditional dish
together with stuffed chard
and pumpkin leaves. Seekers
of oil should head to the olivemill Frantoio di Bartolomeo
Castellari in the hamlet of
Marmòreo to taste oil, pickles
and olives in brine.
Casanova Lerrone
Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 74 014
www.inforiviera.it/blu/casanova.cfm
Affittacamere Moreno Grenna, via Case Soprane 4, tel. 0182 74 318
Agriturismo di Angelo Schivo
Cà di Berti 55, Frazione Marmòreo, tel. 0182 74 304
Agriturismo "Gli Ulivi"
Frazione Maremo Sottano 9, tel. 0182 74 149
Agriturismo "II Poggio"
Frazione Marmòreo, via Poggio 97, tel. 0182 74 040
Agriturismo "Le Macine”
Frazione Marmòreo 81, tel. 0182 74 268
Agriturismo "Santa Lucia"
Frazione Marmòreo, borgata Roveira 116/124, tel. 0182 74 342
Frantoio Bartolomeo Castellari
Frazione Marmòreo 80, tel. 0182 74 042
Hotel Ristorante "Primosole"
Frazione Marmòreo 41, tel. 0182 74 025
Ristorante "La Pineta", Frazione Costa 75, tel. 0182 74 053
Ristorante "Pinocchio"
Frazione Vèllego, piazza Giardino 70/A, tel. 0182 74 168
35
the other riviera
Testico
TESTICO
This hill, always dear
to me…
Eat, drink and sleep a while
The simple but tasty country cuisine of Tèstico is
celebrated by the summer festival of frittelle
(pancakes) followed in autumn by the festival of
chestnuts; try different fare accompanied by Pigato
DOC. Here the restaurants are friendly but refined:
in the central village square you can find the inn
Locanda del Riso e dell’Oblio, which defines itself
as an “atypical restaurant”; it has a veranda with
an extraordinary view and offers wine tasting,
Piedmontese cuisine and cheese plus the beer
Menabrea produced in Biella, one of the best light
beers of the world (as claimed by Americans).
The inn also has some rooms available.
Across the road the Taverna degli Orsi serves tasty
Tèstico specialties; next to the inn, Adriana Merello
has some cosy rooms to rent and in the small alleys,
or “caruggi”, of the old village there is Agriturismo
di Licia Ricci.
Along the road that descends the Mèrula Valley
towards Stellanello, in the hamlet of Dani, you can
find Ristorante Al Frantoio, where you can dine –
weather permitting – at tables positioned outside
around an olive tree, tasting Ligurian dishes
flavoured by the local oil.
High upon the right-hand slope of the upper Lerrone
Valley, coloured in October and November by the
yellow and red of the leaves of chestnut, maple
and alder trees, in the hamlet of Ginestro, there is
Agriturismo Il Poggio.
36
Tèstico has little more than 200
inhabitants, it is a hill village
stretched along the ridge that
separates the Lerrone Valley and the
Mèrula Valley, reachable from
Alassio by a scenic climbing route
or from Casanova Lerrone by
crossing the Ginestro pass.
Its history began with the Romans,
then the village was governed by the
bishop of Albenga, by the Doria
family and by Savoy until it reached
the present, with only olive and
chestnut groves to colour its
landscape.
On foot and by bicycle
on the battle fields
The mountains of Tèstico are not
short of trekking and mountain bike
trails: from Tèstico you can climb to
the pass of San Giacomo di Cesio,
to the Ginestro pass (677 m), to the
peak Pizzo d’Evigno (989 m), or
Mount Arosio (839 m). The nearby
Guerra pass was once the ancient
border between the Republic of
Genoa and the Kingdom of Sardinia.
The territories of Tèstico and
Casanova Lerrone are crossed by the
route “Fischia il vento”, dedicated
to the partisan Felice Cascione.
Stellanello
Val Lerrone, Val Mèrula
Olives and
pottery
Vittorio Sibelli produces and
sells his oil in Caselle, on the
road that comes up from
Andora, and inside the
town hall Riccardo Aicardi
has a stone olive press
embellished with
multi-coloured ceramics
by his wife Paola Maestri
who also decorates and
personalizes the oil bottles
for sale.
Testico: Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 668 091 - www.inforiviera.it/blu/testico.cfm
Affittacamere Adriana Merello
piazza IV Novembre, tel. 0182 669 007
Agriturismo di Licia Ricci
via G. Marconi 4, tel. 0182 668 166
Agriturismo Il Poggio
Ginestro, tel. 0182 668 222, 347 920 26 96
Azienda Agricola di Riccardo Aicardi (oil, decorated bottles, pottery)
via della Vittoria 3, tel. 0182 668 077
Frantoio di Vittorio Sibelli
Borgo Caselle 1, tel. 0182 668 039
Locanda del Riso e dell’Oblio
piazza IV Novembre 7bis, tel. 0182 668 087, [email protected]
Ristorante Al Frantoio
Località Dani, on the road for Stellanello, tel. 0182 668 157
Taverna degli Orsi
piazza IV Novembre 6, tel. 0182 668 074
37
Stellanello
the other riviera
STELLANELLO
Five parishes for a star
A five-pointed star is the coat of arms
of Stellanello, a rural village of the
upper Mèrula Valley with almost 700
inhabitants: in 1305 it was granted
the statutes of a city-state and a
government composed of five consuls,
one for each parish. Its territory is
dominated by the peak Pizzo d’Evigno
(989 m) and by Mount Ceresa (913
m); from the higher meadows,
covered with flowered broom at the
start of summer, you can paraglide or
fly by motor driven hang-glider. There
are also good tracks for mountain
bikes and horseback riding.
Oil, always oil,
wonderful oil
A monumental oak
tree
In the woods of Stellanello, near
the church of Santa Maria del
Bosco, towers a majestic 200year-old oak tree, included in
the list of monumental trees of
Liguria.
In Stellanello in July there is the festival of extravirgin olive oil. Here an excellent passito wine
similar to the “sciacchetrà” of the Cinque Terre is
produced. Oil and all olive products are to be found
at Frantoio da Olive di Simone Rossi in the hamlet
of San Damiano on the ridge, Frantoio da Olive di
Domenico Bestoso, with a nice shop in Borgo
Nuovo in the valley bottom, Frantoio Artigianale
di Mauro Mantello in Albareto above Borgo Nuovo
and Giovanni Divizia who produces here but has
his shop in Andora.
More oil, but this time together with honey, is
available from Rosangela Durante in the woods of
Santa Maria.
The delicious dishes of
Stellanello
38
...can be tasted at Ristorante Antico Borgo, in
the hamlet of Ciccioni: home cooking of land
produce, fresh pasta, seasonable vegetables,
rabbit, wild boar and home made desserts.
Other possibilities are the modern Ristorante El
Trocadero and Ristorante Laureri, where you
can find rabbit, game and the local passito wine
sciacchetrà.
At Trattoria Mèrula, in a beautiful building of
wood and stone, you can enjoy a Texan-style
evening with steaks and black beans tex-mex.
The Lerrone Valley, The Merula Valley
Stellanello: Where, how, when
Town Hall tel. 0182 668 476
www.inforiviera.it/blu/stellanello.cfm
Frantoio da Olive di Domenico Bestoso
Frazione Borgo Nuovo 26, tel./fax 0182 668 031
open from 8.30 to 12.30 and from 14 to 19
Bar Trattoria Merula
via San Lorenzo 36
tel. 0182 668 010
Frantoio da Olive di Simone Rossi
Frazione San Damiano/Pilone
tel. 0182 668 085, 338 127 55 44
in winter Monday and Friday from 8 to 20,
summer always open by appointment
Divizia Giovanni (oil and pickles)
Regione Borgonuovo 10, tel. 0182 668 374,
Andora: via Doria 45
Club Ippico (horse club) “Cavallo George”
Località Bassaneto, Stellanello
tel. 0182 668 979, 335 520 98 75
Frantoio artigianale di Mauro Mantello
Frazione Albareto 19
tel. 0182 668 318, 338 154 38 17
open Saturday from 14 to 18
and Sunday from 9 to 12 by appointment
Ristorante Antico Borgo
Frazione Ciccioni 178, tel. 0182 668 051
Ristorante El Trocadero
via Roma 8, tel. 0182 668 021
Ristorante Laureri
via Roma, tel. 0182 668 012
Rosangela Durante (honey, oil)
Frazione Duranti 12, Località Santa Maria
tel. 0182 668 076
39
the other riviera
The countryside of Andora
Around the lower course of
the Mèrula stream stretches
a flat country landscape
surrounded by scenic hills
rich in history.
THE VILLAGES OF ANDORA
Castello di Andora stands at a height of 95
metres upon a hill to the left side of the stream:
it is a fascinating place. The small ancient
houses, the impressive remains of the castle,
the small early Romanesque church of San
Nicolò and the beautiful, larger RomanesqueGothic church of Santi Giacomo e Filippo
together create one of the most attractive
places in internal Liguria.
The banquet of lords and ladies
After restoring the spirit with a walk in
Castello di Andora, you can turn your
attention to the desires of the palate and dine
at Ristorante la Casa del Priore, almost at
the summit of the hill, or at Pizzeria il Grillo
Parlante, at the bottom of the hill. Seekers
of aromatic herbs should head to the farm
Azienda Agricola Cris’s Spice along the road
that climbs to Colla Micheri.
The ancient hamlet of Colla Micheri is situated
on the Laigueglia hill, which can also be
reached from Andora. Thor Heyerdahl lived
here for over thirty years.
Conna: 320 metres above sea level, with an
endless view that goes from the Maritime Alps
to the Eastern Ligurian Riviera. The extremely
ancient village is delightful, with a medieval
urban structure surrounded by olive groves,
holm oaks and vineyards, the remains of the
“caselle”, shelters built by shepherd in the
woods. Here you can dine at Ristorante Pan de
Cà, at the start of the slope up to the village, or
at Ristorante l’Alpino, at the peak of the village,
serving trout.
Rollo is a hamlet that rises along the Andora hill.
It has a wonderful view of the sea and the plain.
Two steps away
from the sea
Castello di Andora 95 metres asl, 1 km from
tollgate A10 of Andora, 2 km from the sea
Colla Micheri 162 metres asl, 4 km from tollgate
A10 of Andora, 2 km from the sea
Conna 320 metres asl, 4 km from tollgate
A10 of Andora, 5 km from the sea
Mèrula plain 30 metres asl, 1 km from
tollgate A10 of Andora, 2 km from the sea
Rollo 150 metres asl, 7 km from tollgate
A10 of Andora, 1 km from the sea
The hamlets of Andora
Where, how, when
Azienda Agricola Cris’s Spice
Castello di Andora
Strada Castello-Colla Micheri 13
tel. 338 314 1984
Pizzeria il Grillo Parlante
Castello di Andora - via al Castello 1
tel. 0182 85 109
Ristorante la Casa del Priore
Castello di Andora - via al Castello
tel. 0182 87 330
Ristorante l’Alpino
Conna - via P. Cavassa 51, tel. 0182 80 037
Ristorante Pan de Cà
Conna - Strada Comunale di Conna 13
tel. 0182 80 290
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The Mèrula Plain
Where, how, when
Azienda Agricola Giordano
via del Santo, San Bartolomeo
tel. 339 112 4205, 339 326 94 92
B&B Agriturismo il Glicine
di Lauro Pisi
via Divizia 29a, San Bartolomeo
tel. 0182 80 088
Frantoio Artigianale Risso
THE PLAIN OF THE MÈRULA STREAM
via Divizia 114 a, San Bartolomeo
Leave the coast behind and, before confronting
the hills of the upper valley, you will find the
Mèrula plain, a fresh and peaceful environment,
crossed by a clear blue stream, where frogs croak
and birds nest.
Some useful addresses
along the stream
In San Giovanni, almost facing each other upon
the right bank, are Ristorante Basciaricò (mainly
but not exclusively fish) and Trattoria Manin. On
the left bank, there is the opportunity for a break
in San Pietro at Ristorante Peccati di Gola; in
San Bartolomeo at Ristorante il Pozzo (where
there is actually a well) and the pleasant Trattoria
da u Vescu and Trattoria Stella da Patin, in the
shadow of pergolas and trees. Near the large
church of San Bartolomeo is Ristorante Braceria
Birreria Italo’s, which offers exotic meat such as
ostrich, reared at the nearby B&B Agriturismo il
Glicine.
Golden oil
Continuing along the Mèrula plain you can follow
a ruote along the left bank with breaks to allow for
the tasting of the oil of this land at the farm Oltre
d’Or, and at the olive-mills Frantoio Artigianale
Risso and Fratelli Morro, situated in a stone building
beyond the stream. Also worth a visit is the farm
Azienda Agricola Giordano, on the hill behind San
Bartolomeo, which follows the motto “we are with
you straight away”.
tel. 0182 86 150
Fratelli Morro (olive-mill)
via Divizia 33, San Bartolomeo
tel. 0182 800 79
Otre d’Or (oil and oil products)
strada Piangrande 17, San Pietro
tel. 0182 85 722, 339 563 8347
Ristorante Basciaricò,
via Molineri 52a, San Giovanni
tel. 0182 80 187
Ristorante Braceria Birreria Italo’s
via Divizia 15, San Bartolomeo
tel. 0182 680 601
Ristorante il Pozzo
Località Piazza 3, San Bartolomeo
tel. 0182 80 143
Ristorante Peccati di Gola
strada Piangrande 27, San Pietro
tel. 0182 89 260
Trattoria da u Vescu
via Divizia 62, San Bartolomeo
tel. 0182 680 610
Trattoria Manin
via Molineri 23, San Giovanni
tel. 0182 80 011
Trattoria Stella da Patin
via Divizia 70, San Bartolomeo
tel. 0182 80 034
41
the other riviera
The Alassio hill
A cascade of olive groves,
pine trees and vineyards
The hill that surrounds the scenic
Alassio bay is extremely steep.
Steep and green, covered with
elegant villas and rows of olive
groves and vineyards, not to
mention the woods of chestnut
and pine trees. Among the woods
and cultivated land some small
villages are like red spots amid
the expanse of green vegetation.
THE ALASSIO HILL
Sun-kissed Solva clings at a height of 110
metres on the hill overlooking Alassio and
the sea. Higher up many vineyards and woods
rise up to the scenic holy shrine of Madonna
delle Grazie where you will find Ristorante
Castello. In Solvo you can dine at Ristorante
Liguria, with grilled meat and pizzas.
Moglio is similar to Solva, apart from the
slightly more rural tone of its houses and
alleys which look down upon Alassio from
a height of 200 metres.
Excellent places to have a break to eat are
the straightforward and cordial Trattoria degli
Amici, Trattoria 3 stelle, and a little higher
up, Pizzeria Crocetta.
In the charming hamlet of Vegliasco, which
contains an ancient tower, there is Ristorante
Cliff Garden renowned for its creative cuisine.
The Alassio hill
Where, how, when
Two steps away
from the sea
Moglio 200 metri slm, 14 km dal casello
A10 di Albenga, 4 km dal mare (Alassio)
Solva 110 metri slm, 11 km dal casello
A10 di Albenga, 3 km dal mare (Alassio)
42
Vegliasco 250 metri slm, 16 km dal
casello A10 di Albenga, 6 km dal mare
(Alassio)
• Pizzeria Crocetta
via Ottone I 115, Moglio, tel. 0182 469 220
• Ristorante al Castello
Località Madonna delle Grazie 17, tel. 0182 642 873
• Ristorante Liguria
via Lepanto 1, Solva, tel. 0182 644 744
• Trattoria degli Amici
via F. Airaldi 165, Moglio
• Trattoria Tre Stelle
via F. Airaldi 9, Moglio
• Ristorante Cliff Garden
Località Vegliasco 15, tel. 0182 469 033
the other riviera
The valleys of Andora and Ceriale
GARESSIO
CUNEO
ORMEA
CUNEO
Monte Alpe
1056
S.S
.2
8
COL DI NAVA
CUNEO
Monte Grande
1418
Nasino
PIEVE DI TECO
Passo
del Ginestro
Castell’Ermo
1094
T. A
ennavaira
cia
erro
ne
P
T.
Onzo
Casanova
Lerrone
Pizzo d’Evigno
989
Castelvecchio
di Rocca Barbena
Cisano
sul Neva
Ortovero
San Giovanni
San Pietro
Martinetto
2
. 58
S.P Poggio Grande
802
Villanova
d’Albenga
eva
èrula
T. M
Garlenda
Zuccarello
Arnasco
S.S. 453
Stellanello
RoccaBarbena
1142
Erli
rros
T. L
Testico
Castelbianco
Vendone
S.P
Bastia
o
.5
82
Conna
T. Torser
T. N
San Bartolomeo
Sàlea
Vegliasco
Lusignano
Rollo
Solva
BORGHETTO
SANTO SPIRITO
San Fedele
Andora
.
S.S
1
Laigueglia
Albenga
Alassio
S.S. 1
Capo Santa Croce
Isola Gallinara
Ceriale
SAVONA
GENOVA
IMPERIA
FRANCIA
Colla Micheri
A10
enta
Castello di Andora
Peagna
Campochiesa
F. C
Moglio
0
A1
Leca
the other riviera
How to consult this guide
This guide describes each valley
of the territory along routes that
go “municipality by
municipality”. Each area includes
different topics highlighted by
symbols and a colour code:
Locality
Wine, Oil,
Distillates
Nature and Sport
Gastronomy
Art and History
Information and
Useful Numbers
Accommodation
The territory map uses these symbols:
Airport
Typical products
and Agritourism
Port
Bed&Breakfast
Crafts
Golf
Monument
Olives and oil
Wine
Sport
Organic
Farming
Beach
Restaurant
Plants
and flowers
The information regarding each business was checked by the editor and was updated at the end of May
2004. Thanks in advance to our readers for reporting any changes. As they are subject to variations,
opening hours of restaurants are available on the website www.inforiviera.it or by calling the establishments.
The information contained in this booklet is in no way derived from advertisements.
Editorial production: M&R Comunicazione - Genova
Texts: Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio
Editing: Fabrizio Calzia
English translation: Michelle Thomas
Graphic design and make-up: Alessia Massari
Map and illustrations: Marco Ferraris
Photography: Archivio APT Riviera delle Palme, Archivio M&R, Fabrizio Calzia, Renato Cottalasso,
Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio, Fabrizio Gioberti, Fabio Lombrici, Alessia Massari, Santo Piano, Andrea
Siri
Printing: Algraphy – Genova
© 2004, Azienda di Promozione Turistica Riviera delle Palme
Headquarter
Alassio (17021) - Viale Gibb, 26
tel. 0182 647 11 - fax 0182 644 690
www.inforiviera.it
e-mail: [email protected]
Information and Tourist Reception Offices - I.A.T.
Alassio & Le Baie del Sole
Il Finalese
Alassio (17021)
Via Mazzini, 68
tel. 0182 647 027
fax 0182 647 874
e-mail: [email protected]
Albenga (17031)
Viale Martiri della Libertà, 1
tel. 0182 558 444 - fax 0182 558 740
e-mail: [email protected]
Andora (17051)
Via Aurelia, 122/a - Villa Laura
tel. 0182 681 004
fax 0182 681 807
e-mail: [email protected]
Ceriale (17023)
Via Aurelia, 224/a
tel. 0182 993 007 - fax 0182 993 804
e-mail: [email protected]
Garlenda (17033)
seasonal
Via Roma, 1
tel. e fax 0182 582 114
e-mail: [email protected]
Laigueglia (17053)
Via Roma, 2
tel. 0182 690 059
fax 0182 691 798
e-mail: [email protected]
Villanova d’Albenga (17038)
seasonal
Via Garibaldi, 5
tel. e fax 0182 582 498
e-mail: [email protected]
Bardineto (17057) seasonal
Piazza della Chiesa, 6
tel. 019 790 72 28 - fax 019 790 72 93
e-mail: [email protected]
Bergeggi (17042) seasonal
Via Aurelia - tel. e fax 019 859 777
e-mail: [email protected]
Calizzano (17057) seasonal
Piazza San Rocco - tel. e fax 019 791 93
e-mail: [email protected]
Finale Ligure (17024)
• Finalmarina - Via San Pietro, 14
tel. 019 681 019 - fax 019 681 804
e-mail: [email protected]
• Finalborgo seasonal
Piazza Porta Testa
tel. 019 680 954 - fax 019 681 57 89
e-mail: [email protected]
Millesimo (17017)
Piazza Italia, 27
tel. 019 560 00 78 - fax 019 560 09 70
e-mail: [email protected]
Noli (17026)
Corso Italia, 8 - tel. 019 749 90 03 - fax 019 749 93 00
e-mail: [email protected]
Spotorno (17028)
Piazza Matteotti, 6
tel. 019 741 50 08 - fax 019 741 58 11
e-mail: [email protected]
Varigotti (17029) seasonal
Via Aurelia, 79 - tel. 019 698 013 - fax 019 698 88 42
e-mail: [email protected]
Il Savonese & Il Varazzino
Borghetto Santo Spirito (17052)
Piazza Libertà, 1
tel. e fax 0182 950 784
e-mail: [email protected]
Borgio Verezzi (17022)
seasonal
Via Matteotti, 158
tel. e fax 019 610 412
e-mail: [email protected]
Loano (17025)
Corso Europa, 19
tel. 019 676 007
fax 019 676 818
e-mail: [email protected]
Pietra Ligure (17027)
Piazza San Nicolò, 36
tel. 019 629 003
fax 019 629 790
e-mail: [email protected]
Toirano (17055)
Piazzale Grotte
tel. 0182 989 938
fax 0182 984 63
e-mail: [email protected]
Albissola Marina (17012)
Albisola Superiore (17013)
Passeggiata E. Montale, 21
tel. 019 400 20 08 - fax 019 400 30 84
e-mail: [email protected]
Celle Ligure (17015)
Via Boagno - Palazzo Comunale
tel. 019 990 021 - fax 019 999 97 98
e-mail: [email protected]
Pontinvrea (17040) seasonal
Piazza Indipendenza, 1
tel. 019 705 001 - fax 019 705 269
e-mail: [email protected]
Sassello (17046) seasonal
Via G.B. Badano, 45
tel. 019 724 020 - fax 019 723 832
e-mail: [email protected]
Savona (17100)
Corso Italia, 157 r
tel. 019 840 23 21 - fax 019 840 36 72
e-mail: [email protected]
Varazze (17019)
Via Matteotti, 56 - Palazzo Beato Jacopo
tel. 019 935 043 - fax 019 935 916
e-mail: [email protected]
free copy
Il Loanese & Il Pietrese