The other
Transcript
The other
At two steps from the sea THE VALLEYS BETWEEN ANDORA AND The other Riviera Where, how, when free copy enjoy a holiday in the greenery of the Ligurian Riviera delle Palme na e tur my ga st o ron ies itin r era tas tes lity ho s a pit the other riviera The valleys between Andora and Ceriale It is difficult to resist the call of the summer sea, which seems to have been created specially to refresh the body and spirit of us urbanized “western people”, to wash away the stress accumulated during the winter months. It is inevitable, then, that the clear sea of the Riviera delle Palme, with its beautiful coast of sandy beaches and rocks studded with maritime pines, each summer attracts fond friends and numerous tourists. The Riviera delle Palme, nevertheless, goes further: to the enchanting hinterland, close to the sea and very convenient to reach, rich in environmental and cultural quality and the ideal destination for those who wish to alternate their holiday between the blue of the sea and the green of the hills. It is sufficient to leave the motorway behind and, after some turns and a few kilometres, you find yourself in the Other Riviera. 2 The The The The The Ne v a Val le y alley lley lley alley re V i nava Pen a Va Va one V scia Ar r o L er r ul Mèr ALBENGA LAIGUEGLIA CERIALE ALASSIO ANDORA 3 the other riviera The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley To your left the sea and to your right... The motorway tollgate of Albenga acts as a border between the coastal plain and the network of the four valleys where water from the Maritime Alps flows down to the river Centa and the city. Towards the sea lies Albenga with its Roman and Medieval old centre, the agricultural plain, a beach with bathing establishment, hotels and campsites, which join the towns of Ceriale at one side and Alassio at the other. An upwards direction takes you towards the Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley, which rise towards the limestone crest of Mount Galero and the San Bernardo pass. Beyond them, the Tànaro Valley extends towards Piedmont. CISANO SUL NEVA A bell tower among ancient alleys A castle among olive groves The hamlet of Conscente is dominated by the perfectly preserved 15th century castle of the Del Carretto family, built high upon the hill. 4 Past the motorway tollgate you enter Provincial Road no. 582 (former State Road 582) that quickly leads to Cisano sul Neva, a stop on the “Road of Wine and Oil”. For wine, this is above all the land of Pigato DOC, to which a festival is dedicated in nearby Sàlea in September. Further inland and leaving the main road you enter the old centre of Cisano, with the Romanesque bell tower of the 17th century church of Santa Maria Maddalena. Park in the square in front of the town hall, Piazza del Municipio, in order to stroll among the alleys. A short distance away from the centre is the Romanesque church of San Calogero, originating from the 11th century. Golden treasures The Pigato DOC (Controlled designation of Origin) and other wines of Cisano can be tasted at the winery of Felice Noberasco, at the beginning of the town centre and open Saturday afternoon and by appointment, or at Felice Michero in via Moraire and the Poderi Bado Crosi farm in via Benessea. To find the best olive oils of the area around Cisano you can visit Frantoio dei Fratelli Pozzo in Conscente, with the great wheel of its water- mill in perfect working order. N as in o Ca ste lb ia nc o Er li Ca ste lv ec ch io el lo ar Zu cc Ci sa no ALBENGA Two steps away from the sea Cisano sul Neva 50 metres asl 4 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 9 km from the sea Zuccarello 130 metres asl 6 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 11 km from the sea Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena 430 metres asl 16 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 19 km from the sea Everyone to the table! The first restaurant for those who arrive from Albenga is Torre Pernice, set on a hill a little difficult to locate from the road: it offers hand-made pasta and fresh fish dishes washed down by wine produced in the adjacent hills. Meeting is easy to find and convenient for trips to the shopping centres that surround it. Meat and fresh fish, vegetable ravioli and take-away dishes are offered by Ristorante Bar Sport situated in the centre and by Bar Neva. Along the ring road you can find Ristorante della Fenice, situated inside an old-time country courtyard and facing a beautiful ancient fountain; torte di verdure (vegetable pies) and tagliolini pasta and ravioli are the house specialities. In Conscente there is Brasserie U Rundò, close to the sole water olive-press still in activity in Liguria. U Rundò is found in via Gumbo, which takes its name from the gumbi (olive presses). In Martinetto there is Ristorante le Cascate, meaning the cascades restaurant and so-called because of the small but enchanting canyon that the small stream excavated in the rock nearby. Green pinewoods and meadows set the scene at Pizzeria Braceria Il Peperoncino Rosso in Cènesi. Erli 280 metres asl 13 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 18 km from the sea Castelbianco 300 metres asl 10 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 15 km from the sea Nasino 360 metres asl 14 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 19 km from the sea 5 Cisano the other riviera It was the year 1280... ...when Cisano was founded by the city-state of Albenga to contrast the expansionism of the marquis of Clavesana, who dominated the nearby Pennavaire Valley. The Poggio Grande Naturalistic Area Cisano lies on the western boundary of the Poggio Grande Naturalistic Area, which extends towards Toirano and the town of Borghetto Santo Spirito in a typically Ligurian landscape of terraced slopes, cultivated or recaptured by woods, olive groves, Mediterranean maquis and 19th century military forts. All with a sea view. On foot around Cisano From the centre of Cisano you can arrive at the panoramic holy shrine of Santa Croce, passing by Pizzo Ceresa and the 19th century fort of Poggio Grande. The fort of Rocca Liverna, situated on the opposite side of the valley, is reachable by a path that leaves from Martinetto, the last hamlet of the municipality beyond Conscente: it is a “military” itinerary, which runs alongside former barracks and an ancient gunpowder magazine. Cisano sul Neva Where, how, when Town Hall tel 0182 595 026 www.inforiviera.it/blu/cisano.cfm • Bar Neva tavola calda, via Colombo 33, tel. 0182 595 024 • Felice Michero (wine) via Moraire 54, tel. 0182 595 000 6 • Felice Noberasco (eggs and wine) via Roma 50, tel. 0182 595 025, 348 81 33 174 open Saturday 17.30-20.30, other days by appointment • Frantoio Fratelli Pozzo (oil, pickles and olives in brine) via Amedeo 31, Conscente, tel. 0182 595 047, 0182 595 154 Open everyday 8.30-12.30 and 14.00-21.00 • Pizzeria Braceria Il Peperoncino Rosso via Pineta 1, Cènesi, tel. 0182 20 853 • Poderi Bado Crosi, via Benessea 25, Cènesi, tel. 0182 21 572 • Ristorante Bar Sport via Colombo 35, tel. 0182 595 323 • Ristorante Brasserie U Rundò via Gombo 39, Conscente, tel. 0182 595 207 • Ristorante Della Fenice via Nuova 87, tel. 0182 595 547 • Ristorante Le Cascate via Piemonte 35, Martinetto, tel. 0182 595 017 • Ristorante Meeting via Benessea 2, tel. 0182 21 551 • Ristorante Pizzeria Torre Pernice Località Torre Pernice, tel. 0182 20 065 Zuccarello The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley The ancient capital of the marquis ZUCCARELLO Its walls and its porticoes 24 0 54 72 Past Martinetto the valley spreads and the main road continues beside the river Neva. After about 2 km appear the stone ruins of a medieval castle high on the hill and, low and to the side of the road, a small frescoed chapel. This is the road for Zuccarello. It is necessary to leave your car in the car park opposite the door in the city walls and walk into the village, crossed by two lines of low porticoes in the Piedmontese-Ligurian style, which have remained almost intact for over six hundred years. Zuccarello was founded by the marquis of Clavesana in 1248. In 1326 the marquis Del Carretto made the town the capital of his family’s domain and seat of their palace, today a private residence. The castle at the top of the hill is even more ancient and its ruins are reached by a twenty minute walk from the centre; it was connected to towers that controlled access to the town and to the walls that encircle it. When hunger calls... ...you can stop in one of the restaurants of Zuccarello, all attentive to quality and local traditions. Under the porticoes you can find Trattoria Archivolti; outside the wall but still in the old centre is the elegant Il Torchio; and to the side Usteria du Burgu; on the main road, on the other side of the stream, there is Ristorante da Raspi. 7 Zuccarello the other riviera A Roman medieval bridge Zuccarello is famous for its Roman bridge, reachable from the centre by a curving path. The bridge is perhaps not Roman but certainly medieval and among the most beautiful in Liguria; it was made famous some years ago by a cover of Time magazine. She was so young, she was so beautiful... Small natural delights Almost midway under the porticoes of Zuccarello, Alessandra Guastalla runs La Bottega del Borgo (The Village Shop), a fragrant welcoming niche where you can buy oil, jam and other products of the Neva Valley, where naturalness is guaranteed by the organic farmers’ association Liguria Biologica. The path of Ilaria... 8 ...is an excursion itinerary that connects Zuccarello to Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena crossing Mediterranean maquis, vegetable gardens, cultivated terraces, olive groves, chestnut groves and spring flowers. It is a gentle, easy walk, about 3 kilometres long, and it can be undertaken by all. Ilaria Del Carretto was born in Zuccarello. She became the young wife of Paolo Guinigi, Lord of Lucca in 1403 and died in labour only two years later: the monument by Jacopo della Quercia in the cathedral of the Tuscan city is dedicated to her. A historical celebration each year commemorates the wedding of Ilaria and the event is associated with an art exhibition. Good night everyone! Close to the entrance of Zuccarello on the left, before the porticoes, is the B&B of Lucia Risoli, Ponte Romano, named after the nearby stone bridge. Continuing under the porticoes, Alessandra Guastalla welcomes tourists at Casa Guja. Zuccarello Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 79 022 www.inforiviera.it/blu/zuccarello.cfm • B&B Casa Guja via Tornatore 59/2, tel. 0182 79 161, 338 888 01 95 [email protected] • B&B Ponte Romano e Trattoria Archivolti via Tornatore 139, tel. 0182 79 056, 333 655 2414 • La Bottega del Borgo (olio, jam, soap) via Tornatore 71, tel. 0182 79 161 338 88 80 195, open Wednesday and Saturday 10-13 and 15-19 • Ristorante Da Raspi via Nazionale 31, tel. 0182 790 371 • Ristorante Il Torchio via Tornatore 184, tel. 0182 79 000 • Usteria du Burgu via Tornatore 195, tel. 0182 79 100 Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley CASTELVECCHIO DI ROCCA BARBENA An eagle’s nest between rocks and sky Past Zuccarello the Neva Valley rises in an increasingly mountainous landscape, where green is the most dominant colour and, even though the sea is close by, it is now out of sight; at a crossroads the sign for Castelvecchio indicates a deviation to the right up steep hairpin bends. After a small ruined and abandoned village in the brush, Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena appears almost by surprise. Clinging to the limestone sides of Rocca Barbena (1142m), Castelvecchio is a walled village that has remained intact since medieval times. Stronghold of the Clavesana and Del Carretto families, in the 17th century it was fought over by Savoy and Genoa. A Mediterranean village To sleep, to dream... Castelvecchio offers two modern and agreeable accommodations: Casa Cambi is an elegant B&B-Hotel included in the “Guide de Charme”, it has a well-kept garden of olive trees and grapevines, and panoramic views. Antico Melo is a B&B slightly outside and uphill from the village. Also from here there is a very nice view towards the castle and village. Castelvecchio is foremost a Mediterranean village, even before it is Ligurian: to grasp all of its beauty it is necessary to wander through the “carruggi”, or cobbled alleys, passing under vaults and stone arches, gazing at the collections of art and craft tools at Museo del Melo in via Roma, descending to Piazza delle Erbe and observing the cluster of buildings, in brown-grey stone that rise towards the castle, then admiring from up high the maze of roofs and terraces. 9 the other riviera Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena Tales of women, knights, battles, love... Castelvecchio is part of a cultural park dedicated to Ilaria Del Carretto. Each summer a medieval festival is held in Piazza della Torre with games and gastronomic events. Among the most beautiful villages of Italy Castelvecchio belongs to an association called “The most beautiful villages of Italy”, which unites resorts of artistic and environmental value with limited populations and a well-kept urban environment. “Medieval” snails Historical festivals enliven the summer in Castelvecchio and offer excellent opportunities to taste typical fare such as snails and savoury pies based on rice and vegetables, accompanied by wines from the hinterland of Savona. Three pieces of advice for the palate Stroll upwards through the evocative small streets of Castelvecchio and dine at Antica Osteria alla Posta, a stop on the “Road of Wine and Oil”, or at the friendly Trattoria Malco; in the hamlet of Vecersio you will find Eber e Anna, offering tagliatelle, braised beef with (in season) a delicate mushroom sauce and various typical dishes from the central Italian region of Emilia. 10 Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 78 042 www.inforiviera.it/blu/castelvecchio.cfm Alloggio Agrituristico Antico Melo (Farm Holiday Accommodation) via Campo 12, tel. 0182 78 067 329 31 43 795 Antica Osteria alla Posta via Colombera 3, tel./fax 0182 78 282 B&B Casa Cambi via Roma 42, tel. 0182 78 009 Ristorante Pizzeria da Eber e Anna via Maggiore 2, Vecersio tel. 0182 78 238, 338 88 09 907 Trattoria Malco via Roma 9, tel. 0182 78 181 Erli The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley ERLI A soft bed... Land of mushrooms and chestnuts Past Castelvecchio, Provincial Road 582 ascends to the territory of the municipality of Erli, towards the watershed of the Po river and the 957 metres of Piedmont’s San Bernardo pass. Its 250 inhabitants live in 14 hamlets scattered among chestnut groves, orchards and cultivated terraces; now and again a bell tower rises through the green vegetation, here and there lie groups of abandoned stone houses. The sea is just 18 km away. The salt roads The salt roads were the greatgrandfathers of motorways: mule tracks that departed from the Riviera, ascending the Apennines and descending towards the centres of the Po Valley plain. On the coast salt, iron, anchovies and oil were loaded. These goods were traded in the markets of the Po Valley for grain, cloth, tools, wine and meat. Barbarians and Romans Founded along the ancient salt road, of which remains a Romanesque bridge, Erli was probably a station for the changing of horses. White polenta with leek sauce Ingredients: 400 g of polenta flour, 4 leeks, 150 g of ricotta cheese, a few potatoes, 1 cup of oil, 2 tablespoons of sour cream, salt and pepper to taste. Preparation: clean the leeks and, using only the white part, cut into rounds then boil in abundant salty water. Add the flour and, mixing well continually with a wooden spoon, cook the polenta keeping it soft. Meanwhile dilute the ricotta with the cream and boil the potatoes (peeled and chopped into not too small pieces). After about an hour the polenta should be ready to pour onto individual plates, at the centre of which you must previously put the white mixture of ricotta and cream. Add the potato pieces, sprinkle with pepper to season and drizzle over some extra virgin olive oil. Following the main road upwards, here called via Piemonte, you can find the hotel and restaurant Lisetta. ...and a tasty sweet Honour of the old Lisetta and also of the close-by grocery shop of romantic, out-offashion style, are the fragrant and tasty Erli amaretti, quite recently enjoyed by Pope John Paul II. Fruits for every taste Here we are at the high standards of Pigato DOC, but even more than a land of wine, this is the land of vegetable gardens and orchards, where some special varieties grow. For example “pelandroni” beans, “valeggia” and “siccardi” apricots, small and with flecked skin, or “michelin” peaches with white flesh. It is not so easy to find these delicacies, but by asking around in the 14 hamlets you can find the right farmer to buy some from. Festivals dedicated to Polenta and chestnuts The queens of Erli’s dense woods are the chestnuts, to which an Autumn festival is dedicated, during which you can also taste a recipe of Piedmontese origin: white polenta with leek sauce, also with its own festival held on the last weekend of June. 11 Erli the other riviera Erli: Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 78 030 www.inforiviera.it/blu/erli.cfm Albergo Ristorante da Lisetta via Piemonte 21, tel. 0182 78 032 Negozio di commestibili (grocery shop) via Piemonte 21a, tel. 0182 78 032 Panificio Eddio Basso (bakery, producers of amaretti) via Roma 2, tel. 0182 78058 CASTELBIANCO The Dolomites of Liguria 12 Go back to Martinetto where to the orographic right the main tributary of the Neva, the Pennavaire stream, flows into it, descending from the 1708 m high Mount Galero and the 1739 m high Mount Armetta in Piedmont. Pennavaire is a wonderful alpine valley, in whose woods alder, oak and chestnut trees rise at an increasing height before giving up to beech and larch trees, while berries and mushrooms thrive in the undergrowth. The fossil-rich, limestone cliffs form a landscape similar to the Dolomites: and like the Dolomites it was created by the accumulation of sponges, coral and madrepores that lived in the tropical sea covering this region 200 million years ago. White like cherry blossoms The lower Pennavaire Valley is part of the scattered municipality of Castelbianco, with about 270 inhabitants living in about ten hamlets. Castelbianco is renowned for its cherries, wonderful fresh or as jam. The farmers gladly sell their produce to passing tourists along the main road and in the hamlets. Castelbianco The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley Eat and sleep across the valley The Agriturismo da Ferruccio (farmhouse accommodation) produces vegetables in season and extra-virgin olive oil with natural methods and breeds farmyard animals; two hotel-restaurants face each other over the main road: Gin and Scola, both stops along the “Road of Wine and Oil” and perfect bases for gastronomic and hiking trips. The cuisine of this territory uses products in season prepared following recipes at times simple and at times refined but always natural; from Ligurianstyle rabbit to borage ravioli and variously prepared mushrooms (in season). Mountain sports The rocky mountain faces around the town are a delight for free climbers; Mount Alpe is also reachable by mountain bike leaving from the hamlet of Veravo. Another itinerary from the hamlet of Vesallo arrives at Zuccarello, in the Neva Valley. Where the bees buzz The mountain honey of the upper Pennavaire Valley is sold by Giampaolo Cariffi at Veravo, together with jam and olive products. The computerized medieval village A brief distance from the two hotels, a deviation to the right rises to Colletta, the “computerized medieval village”; a beautiful hamlet of stone houses, narrow alleys, curved arches and short flights of steps. Colletta has been completely restructured: on the outside it maintains its old appearance but, inside, the houses are absolutely modern, connected to the world across the Internet and equipped with the comforts of swimming pools, saunas and solariums. An open amphitheatre makes the most of the terraces built by farmers in the past. The “Laboratoio di Antropologia Storica delle Alpi Marittime” (Laboratory of Historic Anthropology of the Maritime Alps) is housed in an ancient tower. Castelbianco the other riviera A Castelbianco recipe Chestnuts dumplings with leeks and zucchini Ingredients (for 4 people): 200 g of flour, 300 g of potatoes, 200 g of chestnut puree, 4 eggs, salt and oil to taste. For the sauce: 200 g of leeks, 2 ripe tomatoes, 200 g of zucchini. Preparation: prepare the dough for the dumplings following the classical recipe, incorporate all the ingredients and leave to rest, cut the dough and form small pieces that will become the future dumplings. For the sauce: in a large pan fry the chopped leek and sliced zucchini. As soon as they are browned add the chopped and peeled tomato. Season with salt and pepper and cook for 10 minutes. Right before serving cook the dumplings in the traditional way, pour the delicious sauce over them and sprinkle over a handful of freshly chopped parsley, and buon appetito! To feed the body and the soul The highlights of the wine and cuisine offered by Locanda delle Antiche Pietre (with Internet-cafe) are its fresh local farm products and its ample selection of wines, not just Ligurian or Italian. To rest the body and the soul The “Accommodation System of Colletta” offers stays ranging from a room with services to a suite with lounge to a furnished apartment with kitchen area capable of accommodating 2 to 6 people. Castelbianco Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 77 006 www.inforiviera.it/blu/castelbianco.cfm Agriturismo da Ferruccio via Pennavaire 48, tel. 0182 77 013 open Thursday and Saturday Albergo Ristorante Gin via Pennavaire 99, tel. 0182 77 001 Albergo Ristorante Scola via Pennavaire 166, tel. 0182 77 015 [email protected], Giampaolo Caraffi (honey and traditional products) via Verrano 28, tel. 0182 77 114, 338 42 68 787 Locanda delle Antiche Pietre (restaurant, suite, wine shop), via Muntà du Bricchettu 3, Colletta, tel. 0182 778 244, 0182 778 206, 335 381 121 www.colletta.it NASINO Where eagles dare 14 Almost at the border with the Cuneo province (a large part of the upper Pennavaire Valley is in Piedmont) lies Nasino with its 10 hamlets, some of which have roofs covered with ancient stone slabs, or “ciappe”, where 240 inhabitants live among terraces planted with olive trees and the first chestnut groves of Mount Galero. All around are the true Alps, where the limestone that forms the mountains created karst caves where pre-historic man lived (the Arma di Nasino, one of the more than fifty caves of the Pennavaire Valley, bears human traces starting from 7000 b.C.) and where birds of prey nest upon steep mountain faces (some say that there are even eagles). Nasino The Neva Valley and the Pennavaire Valley Fruits of the forests and vegetable gardens In the village you can buy strawberries, small wild strawberries and vegetables from Loredana Bellotoma, while in the hamlet of Beo the Azienda Agricola di Graziella Silvestri offers home-made specialities: peppers (from sweet to very hot), pickled vegetables, jam, fruit juice, honey, oil... Visitors can glance inside the kitchen at the back where these delicacies are created. This business, founded quite recently by Graziella Silvestri, is in the process of being included amoung the stops of the “Road of Wine and Oil”. Oil of a high level Slightly higher than the Costa pub, on the other side of the stream, you can find the olive press Frantoio di Armando Garello. Extra-virgin olive oil is also available at L’ulivo in via Roma. Where the pasture is higher... You can take one of the paths, which from Nasino climb Mount Alpe (1056 m) or Mount Castell’Ermo (1092 m), to the Penne peak (1405 m) or Mount Galero (1708 m) and go in search of herds, flocks and shepherds. Enjoy the view, which on clear days allows you to see the curved arch of the Ligurian coast, the Apuan Alps and Corsica. A pub alongside a stream The Antica Osteria Costa, looking out over the stream that flows parallel to the main road, is a stop on the “Road of Wine and Oil”: the landlady Edda and her son Corrado offer traditional dishes based on fresh seasonal produce, such as porcini mushrooms, black truffle fondue (this is the land of truffles), home-made pasta and oven-baked stuffed vegetables. Nasino Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 77 017 www.inforiviera.it/blu/nasino.cfm • Antica Osteria Costa via Roma 22, tel./fax 0182 77 002 • Azienda Agricola di Graziella Silvestri via Roma 67, tel. 0182 77 90 03 • Azienda Agricola di Loredana Bellotoma via Montello 2A, Borgo, tel. 0182 77 138 • Azienda olearia L’Ulivo di De Andreis G. e C. (olives in brine and extra-virgin olive oil) via Roma 91/1 tel. 0182 77 213 • Frantoio da Olive di Armando Garello via Roma 13, tel./fax 0182 77 020 open from 8.00 to 20.00 15 the other riviera Peagna and the Albenga Plain Albenga and Ceriale are each made up of elegant and scenic hamlets which look out over the not so distant beaches; places where the night is fresher and you can breathe in the fragrance of the countryside: they are the sea front of the other Riviera, sheltered from the lively frenzy of the coast and already offering the pleasure of inland nature, the murmur of the brook, the freshness of the trees waving in the breeze, the starry sky. PEAGNA Relax in Peagna In Peagna you can rest and refresh yourself out of the old centre at the restaurant Il Faro or the pizzeria restaurant La Mela Rosa, right next to the campsite Camping Ali Babà. Books and prehistory Peagna forms part of the municipality of Cariale and is a medieval village of colourful houses and narrow alleys situated 120 metres above sea level at the limits of the Albenga Plain. At the end of summer it holds the Ligurian Book Show, which displays new books from Liguria and rare books. The “Silvio Lai” Palaeontological Museum allows the discovery of the geologic history of the region and is connected to the nearby regional nature reserve of Rio Torsero, with a rich fossil deposit of the Pliocene era in a small, dense wood. Peagna Where, how, when Camping Alì Babà Ristorante pizzeria La Mela Rosa via N.S. delle Grazie 80, tel./fax 0182 990 182 restaurant tel. 0182 931 612 Silvio Lai Paleontological Museum via Nuova di Peagna 17, tel. 0182 990 024 visits on request 16 Ristorante Il Faro strada nuova di Peagna 130 tel. 0182 990 176 Fe de le Sa n Lu sig n Ba sti a Le ca Sà le a an o ch ie sa a po Ca m Pe ag n CERIALE ALBENGA Two steps away from the sea Peagna 122 metres asl, 6 km from tollgate A10 of Borghetto Santo Spirito 2 km from the sea Campochiesa 28 metres asl, 4 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga, 3 km from the sea Lusignano 30 metres asl, 3 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga, 4 km from the sea San Fedele 30 metres asl, 4 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga, 3 km from the sea Salea 60 metres asl, 4 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga, 4 km from the sea Leca 15 metres asl, 1 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga, 3 km from the sea Bastia 25 metres asl, 1 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga, 4 km from the sea The “new villas” of the plain The present hamlets of Albenga were founded in the medieval period as “borghi” (villages surrounded by a wall) or “ville” (agricultural centres) by the city-state of Albenga to cultivate the Centa plain and to defend the territory from threat. In each there is a clear medieval structure, made up of narrow alleys, stone or brightly coloured houses and many olive groves. They are surrounded by fertile countryside punctuated with greenhouses and the cultivation of purple asparagus, open fields, brush, Pigato DOC vineyards and large bushes of yellow broom. CAMPOCHIESA The first hamlet of Albenga which you meet coming from the east is Campochiesa, at a height of 30 metres: it is a small hamlet, delightful and secluded. Its artistic jewel, however, is outside the village, in the cemetery: the Romanesque-Gothic church of Saint George preserves important frescoes including the Last Judgement from 1446 where Dante, Virgil and other characters from the Divine Comedy are depicted. Recreation, rest, refreshment You can stay at the campsite Camping Bellavista, towards Ceriale, or at the Agriturismo B&B il Colletto, which offers horse riding excursions and sells oil, fruit, vegetables and aromatic plants. Uphill from the village, is the Centro Ippico Vetrano (Horseback Riding Centre). In the plain outside the village there is Ristorante le Rapalline, and organic sage can be bought at Azienda Agricola il Pitosforo, situated uphill. Campochiesa Where, how, when Agriturismo B&B il Colletto via Cavour 34, tel. 0182 21 858, 335 260 254 www.agriturismoilcolletto.it [email protected] Azienda Agricola il Pitosforo di Bruna Gatto (organic sage), tel. 0182 542 843 Camping Bellavista Regione Campore 23, tel. 0182 540 213 Centro Ippico Vetrano Ristorante le Rapalline Regione Rapalline, tel. 0182 20 340 17 Sàlea the other riviera SÀLE A Leca Sàlea: Where, how, when Houses with flat roofs, terraced land, tranquil elegant corners and all the charm of the Ligurian hills: this is Sàlea, at 60 metres above sea level, the land of Pigato DOC wine. To stay in the vicinity of this marvellous village head to the elegant and bucolic Albergo Cà di Berta, immersed in the sun and silence of the wild countryside, or the tranquil campsite Camping la Pineta. Excellent local wines are to be found at the cellars of Vecchia Cantina di Umberto Calleri or the nearby Cantine Calleri with Pigato and Rossese. Albergo Cà di Berta Ristorante Carlotta via Case di Berta tel. 0182 559 930 Azienda Agricola La Vecchia Cantina di Umberto Calleri via Corta 3 tel. 0182 559 881 Camping la Pineta Località Roberti 17 tel./fax 0182 20 493 Cantine Calleri Regione Fratti 2 tel. 0182 20 085 LEC A This is one of the main “villas” of Albenga, a large, level village next to the Neva stream. It preserves some ancient buildings such as the villa d’Aste with its powerful tower. Above all, it is the capital of Albenga olive oil. Oil and more In Leca you can eat at Pizzeria Mammamia in the village centre and then go in search of excellent oil at the various oil-mills: all near to one another are the olivemills Frantoio Marco in the centre and Frantoio dei Fratelli Revello and Delfino Golero higher up. Wine lovers should head for the excellent vinery Vitivinicola di Luigi Sartori and its wine bar next to the medieval stone tower Torre Pernice, at the border of the 18 municipality of Cisano sul Neva. Leca Where, how, when Frantoio da Olive Marco (oil, pickles, olives in brine) via Piemonte 152, tel. 0182 20 055 Frantoio Delfino Gorlero Località Cime di Leca 7, tel. 0182 20 305 Frantoio Fratelli Revello Località Cime di Leca, via al Piemonte 5b, tel. 0182 20 197 Pizzeria Mammamia via Piemonte 103, tel. 0182 20 564 Vitivinicola Luigi Sartori (DOC wines) Regione Torre Pernice 5, tel./fax 0182 20 042 Bastia Lusignano San Fedele Peagna and the Albenga Plain BASTIA At 25 metres above sea level this village lies in a line upon the ridge of a hill. It rose around a military fortification whose remains are today part of the villa Anfossi. Here too are alleys, stone walls, silent small squares, vineyards, olive-mills... Out to dine in Bastia In Bastia there are: Pizzeria brasserie il Torchietto, Ristorante Lì per Lì (Ligurian cuisine and fish) and Trattoria La Vecchia with rooms available. Wine, oil… …vegetables and aromatic herbs are to be found at Azienda Agricola Anfossi, Vitivinicola di Enrico Dario, the adjacent Negozio del Borgo and Bio Vio Aimone (organic farming). A few steps away from the alleys wine and oil are to be found at Bartolomeo Maglione; wine outside of the village at Cascina Feipu in Massaretti. Cheese from the shepherd Lo Manto at I Formaggi del Boschetto. LUSIGNANO To the right of the Arroscia stream, Lusignano is a “villa” of 16th century houses lined up on a small ridge with small vegetable gardens behind them, its alleys and walls are warmed by the light colour of the local stone. SAN FEDELE Moving towards the coast is the “villa” of San Fedele also with a linear layout up on a hill ridge. Lower down, the beautiful church of Saint Simon and Saint Judas stands out with its Romanesque bell tower and the high cypress tree that watches on it. Bastia Where, how, when Pizzeria brasserie il Torchietto via Massari 18, tel. 0182 21 395 Ristorante Lì per Lì (Ligurian cuisine and fish) via Paccini 34, tel. 0182 20 772 La Vecchia Trattoria (rooms available) via Paccini 81, tel. 0182 20 510 Azienda agricola Anfossi (wine, oil, vegetables) via Paccini 39, tel. 0182 20 024 Bio Vio Aimone (wine, oil, organic aromatic herbs) via Crociata 24, tel./fax 0182 20 776, 335 654 6917 Cascina Feipu (wine) Regione Massaretti 7, tel./fax 0182 20 131 [email protected] I Formaggi del Boschetto (cheese) Regione Boschetto, tel. 0182 20 687, 339 416 7938 Bartolomeo Maglione (wine and oil) via Becchignoli 18, tel. 0182 20 729, 340 626 8679 Vitivinicola Enrico Dario and il Negozio del Borgo (wine and more) via Massari 4, tel./fax 0182 20 548 19 the other riviera The Arroscia Valley From the sea, towards the Alps The motorway tollgate of Albenga acts as the point of departure towards the longest of the four valleys of the Albenga region, although the province of Savona takes up only its lower section. The Arroscia Valley takes water born on the snowfields of the Maritime Alps o the sea, rising across cultivated countryside, vineyards and woods, pushing the salty air and the smell of the sea and of the Riviera towards the mountains. ORTOVERO The wines of the Arroscia Valley The Romans among peaches and roses The ancient Romans enjoyed the wine and fruit of the Arroscia Valley, ripened in the sun of Ortovero, which today has 950 inhabitants. The peaches of Ortovero are also appreciated in Piedmont. In addition to orchards there are rose gardens: surrounding the fortified village of Pogli, founded in 1288, roses of special characteristics are cultivated in greenhouses. A Greek vine naturalized in Liguria 20 The Pigato arrived in Liguria in the Middle Ages from Greece, from one of the Genoese colonies in Aegean Sea. It is a white wine with a golden colour, fresh and transparent at 11.5°. In Ortovero the vines were planted in 1830 by the archpriest Francesco Gagliolo, but the wine wasn’t first sold until around 1950 by the wine producer Rodolfo Gaggino, at the price of 300 lire a bottle. The Arroscia Valley is one of the main wineproducing areas of Liguria. At the entrance to Ortovero you will find the Cooperativa Viticoltori Ingauni, the largest cooperative wine-growers’ association of Western Liguria. Pigato and Rossese DOC from the “WesternRiviera” are the stars of the local wine history. A worthy Rossese is also to be found at the Azienda Agricola Durin, and other wines of the Riviera are produced and sold at Cantina di Franco Pisano in Pogli. A festival of peaches and Pigato wine takes place in Ortovero in August. e A rn as co V en do ne O nz o o O rto ve r ALBENGA Two steps away from the sea Ortovero 65 metres asl 8 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga, 13 km from the sea Onzo 415 metres asl 16 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga, 21 km from the sea Vendone 400 metres asl 13 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga, 18 km from the sea Arnasco 290 metres asl 9 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga, 14 km from the sea A little art and history The hamlet of Pozzo preserves the remains of an ancient village, a 13th century castle of the Clavesana family and a tower. Behind the remains of the castle the elliptical and baroque oratory of Saint John the Baptist stands out, with its churchyard in black and white cobbles, known locally as risseu. The entire village of Pogli is interesting, with its fortified structure; still visible are five towers and parts of the original surrounding walls. Near the parish church of San Silvestro Papa, the theatre Teatro Casone is to be found, which together with other theatres of the Riviera delle Palme participates each year in the theatre season The sea once reigned here ... Evidence of the local geologic events is the clay of Ortovero which comes to the surface near Borgo Fasceo and is known as “terìn gianchi” (white soil); it dates back millions of years to a period when the sea moved very far inland. This clay is rather rich in fossils of micro and macrofauna. Ladies and Gentlemen, to the table! Ristorante Tripoli, where you can taste grilled meat and fish is situated right in the town centre; Trattoria Vignola in Pogli serves mushrooms (in season) and Arroscia eel, together with stuffed dried salted cod, buridda fish stew and Genoese stockfish. Also in the centre of Ortovero is Bar d’Utué for quick cold dishes. And to sleep... ...just head to Hotel Tripoli, of the above-mentioned restaurant. Elegance and tranquillity, in the heart of the town centre. 21 Ortovero the other riviera Ortovero: Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 547 338 www.inforiviera.it/blu/ortovero.cfm Albergo Ristorante e Agriturismo Borgo Fasceo via Fasceo 1 and via Villa 1, tel. 0182 547 310 www.borgofasceo.it A farm holiday hotel Just out of the centre of Ortovero, surrounded by olive groves and woods is the elegant villa of Albergo Ristorante e Agriturismo Borgo Fasceo. Around the villa of the farm holiday-hotel are rows of vineyards and orchards, olive groves, vegetable gardens, breeding facilities for goats and farmyard animals. Guests can taste Genoese cuisine prepared with local produce and accompanied by the local wine. ONZO On the slopes of Castell’Ermo 22 Continuing onwards from Ortovero towards the upper Arroscia Valley, the church of San Calocero is the scene of a festival every five years: three processions join here from the neighbouring villages. A winding route climbs the hills of the valley, which will soon become a rocky, rugged and extremely scenic mountain: Castell’Ermo, from its height of 1092 metres, dominates the territory of the municipality of Onzo and its hamlets scattered among olive groves and copse woods; the 240 inhabitants cultivate olives, chestnuts and grapes, used to produce Pigato DOC. Azienda agricola Durin (wine and oil) via Roma 92, tel. 0182 547 007 open Wednesday from 16 to 20 or by appointment Bar d’Utué via Roma 99, tel. 0182 547 303 Cantina Franco Pisano via Nazionale 8, Pogli, tel. 0182 547 029 Cooperativa Viticoltori Ingauni Via Roma 1, tel. 0182 547 127, open weekdays and Saturday from 8-12.30 and 14.30-17 Hotel Ristorante Tripoli via Roma 42, tel. 0182 547 017 Teatro Casone via alla Chiesa 26, Associazione Culturale Hanbury Hall tel. 0182 547 338 Trattoria Vignola via Nazionale 2, Pogli, tel. 0182 547 023 Onzo The route of the partisans Through the Onzo territory passes a section of the route known as “Fischia il vento”, after the opening words of a famous partisan song. This path is dedicated to the partisan Felice Cascione, who fought among the valleys of Mèrula, Lerrone and Arroscia and was one of the authors of the famous song. Eighteen kilometres of hill pathway cross the municipalities of Tèstico, Casanova Lerrone, Onzo, Vendone and Alto. The view is wonderful, looking over the Maritime Alps and the sea, farming villages and the countryside. the Arroscia Valley The oil of Onzo The best place to buy oil produced with the olives of Onzo is Azienda Agricola di Angela Lungo Arnaldi, in the hamlet of Costa. Here you can find oil, olives and olive paté. Onzo: Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 766 004 www.inforiviera.it/blu/onzo.cfm Azienda agricola di Angela Lungo Arnaldi località Costa 3, tel. 0182 766 056 Open weekdays 11 to 14, Saturday/ Sunday from 9 to 12 and from 14 to 20 or by appointment. For fishing in lake Menezzo(which may re-open in summer, but it will not be known until late spring) contact the Town Hall. Fishing and walking in the woods Hikers who walk up from Onzo to Castell’Ermo can visit the remains of the ancient castle. From the summit, a beautiful view of the surrounding valley, of Albenga and of the coast can be enjoyed. Those who 23 travel (by car or on foot) to Menezzo, at an altitude of 600 metres, can go fishing at the Vendone the other riviera VENDONE A scenic and open road From Onzo, it is nice to return towards the coast following an itinerary cut into the hill-side, in a setting that winds along the small valleys of tributary streams of the Arroscia and through the hamlets of the municipality of Vendone. This scenic route offers the possibility to take short breaks for local wine, cuisine and culture. A castle here and there The 390 inhabitants of Vendone have their town hall in Lèuso, however, Castellaro and Curenna are the most interesting villages. The castle of Curenna takes advantage of the natural ruggedness of the rocks upon which it is built, and so do the fortified houses at the entrance to the medieval village. The powerful fortress of Castellaro has a triangular plan in order to make the most of the shape of the rocky buttress upon which it was erected. Olives, olives, olives... and a few ancient churches The landscape of the hills around Vendone is characterized by the presence of olive trees. Low down, far below the bends of the main road, rises the isolated church of Migliarina. Higher up, towards the summit of Castell’Ermo, you can reach the sanctuary of San Calocero, dedicated to a Roman soldier who died as a martyr in Albenga. The “Garden of Stones” In the shadow of the Castellaro tower there are about twenty large standing stones, rosy-white and decorated with lines and geometric figures. They are sculptures by Reiner Kriester, who lived and worked in Vendone for many years; an open-air museum in the Mediterranean countryside. 24 Pesto and marjoram Following the traditions of the hinterland of Albenga, in Vendone pesto is prepared with marjoram instead of basil. The reason is that, before there were greenhouses, basil grew only in summer while marjoram was already available in spring. the Arroscia Valley In search of oil and wine The organic farm Azienda Agricola, in the hamlet of Catone, has passed through the hands of nine generations of olive growers and is now managed by Renzo Bronda. Its olives are of the Taggiasca and Pinola varieties, its methods of cultivation are organic using a small semitraditional olive press. It sells oil, vegetables, anchovies and tuna in oil, pesto, Ortovero wines and “Brondesi” chocolates. In the hamlet of Crosa the farm Azienda Agricola di Claudio Vio produces oil, olives and wine including the famous Western Riviera Pigato Refresh the body in Verdone In Lèuso there is the Trattoria Pizzeria “l’Alpino”, with home cooking and farinata (chick-pea pie), while those in search of rest should head to the Agriturismo “La Crosa”, in the hamlet of Crosa; restored and hidden among olive groves and cottages, with a garden and children’s swimming pool; it sells oil, aromatic herbs, jam, olives in brine; if you stay overnight you can also dine here, tasting traditional cuisine based above all on vegetables. Vendone Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 76 248 www.inforiviera.it/blu/vendone.cfm Agriturismo “La Crosa” Frazione Crosa 10, tel./fax 0182 76 331 Azienda Agricola di Claudio Vio Frazione Crosa 16, tel./fax 0182 76 338 Open Saturday 15-17 or by appointment Azienda Agricola Renzo Bronda Frazione Crosa 16, tel./fax 0182 76 253 Trattoria Pizzeria “l’Alpino” Frazione Léuso, tel. 0182 76 435 Arnasco the other riviera ARNASCO A balcony looking out over the valley 550 inhabitants are distributed halfway up the slope in various hamlets, a landscape rich in olive groves, a tranquil road that rises through pine trees to a radiant view of the open plain of Albenga: this is Arnasco, in the small valley of the Aibeglia stream. Arnasco probably dates back to Roman times, and its first populated centre rose in the valley bottom in the vicinity of the small church of San Dalmazzo (12th century), perhaps the oldest church in the Albenga region. A hiking route takes you to an ancient Napoleonic fort at a height of 800 metres. From Arnasco many paths lead to the other villages of the Arroscia Valley, the Pennavaire Valley and the Neva Valley. Oil, wine and other delicacies Typical Ligurian products are on offer at Collina dei Sapori, in the hotel Albergo Collina, and Cooperativa Olivicola, whose sales centre is to be found next to the Museo dell’Olio, or Oil Museum, and offers oil of the Arnasca variety, olives and wine. The bakery and pastry shop Pane e olio, in the hamlet of Bezzo towards the valley bottom, is recommended for a break. In Menosio, among ancient houses and stone alleys, the Agriturismo “il Carruggio” offers accommodation and sells oil, wine (Arnasco is one of the production areas for the Savona Pigato DOC), sauces, vegetables, eggs, jam; the holiday farm has an estate of vineyards, olive groves and vegetable gardens, a bowling green and a solarium. Olive trees in the fields and within the walls The Museo dell’Ulivo e della Civiltà Contadina (Museum of the olive tree and of rural culture), right in the centre of the village, tells the story of the life of this land, in which olives have always characterized the economy. Inside the museum is an old restored olive press. The olives cultivated in the area around Arnasco are mainly of the Pignola variety, locally called Arnasca. 26 “Pignola” olives The cultivation of Pignola olives, named after the Italian word for pine nuts due to their distinctive taste, dates back to the 17th century. Grafting is required for cultivation, because of the stony and dry soil of this terraced land. The Cooperativa Olivicola Arnasco (olive growers’ cooperative) is the sole producer of the Pignola extra-virgin olive oil. the Arroscia Valley Mediterranean cuisine and a refreshing sleep The cuisine of Arnasco is centred on the extra-virgin olive oil of the Arnasca olive. You can take some refreshment at the simple Trattoria “da Bianca”, in front of the church, or at the elegant and colourful Albergo Ristorante Collina in the main square near the museum; or at the Locanda “i Cacciatori” an inn in the hamlet of Menosio. Arnasco Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 761 020 www.inforiviera.it/blu/arnasco.cfm Agriturismo “il Carruggio” via Cappella 4, Frazione Menosio tel. 0182 761 031, 0182 761 182, 335 705 16 25 Albergo Ristorante Collina piazza IV Novembre 7, tel. 0182 761 022 Cooperativa Ulivicola piazza IV Novembre 8, tel. 0182 761 178 La collina dei sapori piazza IV Novembre 7, tel. 0182 761 022 Locanda “i Cacciatori” piazza Tomatis, Frazione Menosio, tel. 0182 761 018 Museo dell’Ulivo e della Civiltà Contadina piazza IV Novembre 8, tel. 0182 761 178 visits from 9 to 12 and 14.30 to 18.30 Pane e Olio (bread and cakes) Frazione Bezzo, tel. 0182 761 290 Trattoria “da Bianca” via Stefano Viaggio 10, tel. 0182 761 016 27 the other riviera Lerrone Valley, Mèrula Valley A ring-road among olive trees and chestnuts The two most western valleys of the Riviera delle Palme are reachable with a single itinerary, which from Albenga climbs the Lerrone Valley, descends into the Mèrula Valley and ends in Andora. It passes hamlets among woods or city walls, watched over by churches and castles, surrounded by hills covered with olive and chestnut trees. VILLANOVA D’ALBENGA Villanova cuisine Land and sea dishes accompany one another perfectly in the restaurants and pubs. Among the gastronomic specialties are “zemin”, a vegetable soup with basil; the rarer “ventre”, dried tuna steaks soaked with pine nuts, and “strene”, biscuits with candied fruit and raisins, covered with coloured sugar dots. F b p A A “new” town surrounded by walls Villanova is the most important of the walled towns that the city-state of Albenga founded in the 13th century to guard access from the inland. surrounded by walls and numerous towers. Of the original “villa nova” (Latin for “new villa”), a covered well with an ancient chain, at the centre of the main street, also remain. 28 r r St el la ne llo Tè sti co C Le asa rro no ne va le nd a G ar V d’ illa A no lb v en a ga ALBENGA Two steps away from the sea Villanova d’Albenga 30 metres asl 5 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 6 km from the sea (Albenga) Garlenda 70 metres asl 7 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 8 km from the sea (Albenga) Casanova Lerrone 250 metres asl 13 km from tollgate A10 of Albenga 14 km from the sea (Albenga) Tèstico 470 metres asl 16 km from tollgate A10 of Andora 18 km from the sea (Alassio or Andora) An agricultural town Stellanello 150 metres asl 12 km from tollgate A10 of Andora 14 km from the sea (Andora) For over a century violets have been cultivated in the countryside of Villanova, packaged including their leaves and sent all over Europe. A beautiful Villanova church A worthy visit in Villanova (1940 inhabitants) is to the church of Santa Maria Rotonda or del Soccorso, dating to 1520. It is one of the few Italian churches with a round shape and layout. An airport town A road that runs to the right of Nostra Signora delle Grazie leads to the international airport “C. Panero”, linked to Rome by scheduled flights and used by charter flights and small business and private planes. The airport has a field for model aircraft and organizes flying and parachuting courses. Continuing along the same road you reach the “Ippodromo dei Fiori” racetrack. 29 the other riviera A Villanova recipe: Villanova-style “ventre” Ingredients (for 4 people): 500g of dried tuna steaks, 2 onions, 2 cloves of garlic, 2 pieces of celery, parsley, thyme, laurel, rosemary, marjoram, 100g of pine nuts, 6 potatoes, 1 cup of extra-virgin olive oil, salt and pepper to taste, 2 glasses of dry white wine. Preparation: soak the dried tuna steaks in flavoured water for 12 hours before the preparation of the dish, chop into pieces and rinse in abundant running water. Stir-fry the finely chopped onion, garlic, parsley, celery and all the seasonings; when browned add the tuna, then the pine nuts, a teaspoon of chopped chilli, salt and the white wine. When the wine has absorbed, cover with the water in which the tuna was soaked and bring to the boil, add the chopped potatoes and leave to simmer on a low heat for 2 hours adding vegetable stock if the mixture becomes too dry. This recipe was kindly provided by Ristorante Crostasserie “Buco degli Artisti”. Villanova d’Albenga A few suggestions for the palate... Two extremely pleasant restaurants are situated in the old centre: Trattoria Mama Esther (tastes, smells and “art”) with meat and fish dishes and Ristorante Crosstasserie “Buco degli Artisti”, where you can find Breton oysters, South African lobster and the dishes of the day including meat, rosemary tagliatelle... Out of the walls, towards the inland, is Pizzeria La Strombata with a wood pizza oven. Ligurian cuisine is on offer for those who dine at Ristorante dell’Aeroporto, while near the racetrack is Ristorante Il Boschetto and inside the racetrack is Ristorante Pizzeria Zachiky. And so to the hamlets: in Coasco, along Provincial Road 453, is Osteria La Madia, an elegant inn that offers game, rabbit, shellfish and truffle fondue. Just before Bossoleto is Ristorante Pizzeria Claro da Luna that offers ravioli with rabbit sauce, pappardelle pasta with sea-food sauce, grilled meat and fish. Int Lo An Fr Op Ca Ca “C Re 01 ca Fr (ol via op Ho via Ipp eR Str ww Other small delicacies In the old town centre is the coffee shop and wine bar Est Est Est, where you can taste farro cream, an unusual emmer-based drink; just out of the town walls you find the butcher’s shop Macelleria Enzo Piraldo, on the ring road, selling their own salami, Prodotti liguri, a shop specialised in products from Liguria in piazza Mazzini and the pasta shop Pastificio Poggio in via Roma. Seekers of oil should head to the olive-mill Frantoio Baglitto & Secco, on the road for Garlenda close to the Airport, where they will find oil, pickles and olives in brine, or to Angelo Mantica, who produces Pigato and 30 Vermentino wine, oil and cut flowers. To ww ...and suggestions on where to spend the night You can book into Hotel Hermitage in Villanova , also a restaurant, situated among the greenery at the top of a hill along the road for Garlenda. Or continue along the road that goes from the racecourse to Ligo, where you will find the campsite and tourist village “C’era una volta”, with restaurant, in the middle of a sparse wood with a wonderful view upon the valley. Garlenda Lerrone Valley, Mèrula Valley Villanova d’Albenga Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 582 913 www.inforiviera.it/blu/villanova.cfm Macelleria Enzo (butcher’s) via Martiri 20, tel. 0182 582 951 International Airport C. Panero Località Aeroporto, tel. 0182 582 033 Maneggio Country Club - horse riding school Località San Rocco 7, tel. 0182 580 640 Osteria La Madia Angelo Mantica (typical products) Località Coasco 24 on Provincial Road 453 tel. 0182 585 084 Frazione Bossoleto 39, tel 0182 582 824 Open Tuesday 15-18 and other days by appointment Pasta fresca Poggio (fresh pasta) Caffeteria vineria Est Est Est, via Garibaldi 32 via Roma 51, tel 0182 582 953 Campeggio Villaggio Turistico “C'era una volta” (campsite and restaurant) Regione Fascetti 5, tel. 0182 580 461, 0182 580 574 during the winter please call 0182 582 742 Frantoio Baglietto & Secco (olives, pickles, olives in brine) via Roma 137, tel. 0182 582 838 open from 8 to 13 and from 14.30 to 20 Pizzeria La Strambata via Roma 17H, tel. 0182 582 697 Prodotti Liguri (Ligurian products), piazza Mazzini 10 Ristorante Crostasserie Buco degli Artisti, Enoteca "Di Rimpetto" vico Ponte 9/11, tel. 0182 580 093 Ristorante dell'Aeroporto Località Aeroporto, tel. 0182 585 027 Hotel Ristorante Hermitage via Roma 152, tel. 0182 582 976 Ristorante Il Boschetto Strada per Ligo, 1, tel. 0182 580 348 Ippodromo dei Fiori e Ristorante Pizzeria Zachiky Strada per Ligo 4, tel. 0182 582 666, 0182 580 641 www.ippodromodeifiori.it Ristorante Pizzeria Claro de Luna Frazione Bossoleto, 6, tel. 0182 580 553 Trattoria Mama Esther vico Lerrone 2, tel. 0182 582 187 GARLENDA Country village or an élite tourist spot? Both of these things: Garlenda, is an international tourist centre but at the same time a charming village, where 880 inhabitants live immersed in a luxuriant countryside of orchards, olive groves and vineyards producing Pigato and Rossese. Here perfectly renovated hamlets with stone houses and with flowers along the roads, such as the hamlet of Castelli, are to be found next to elegant modern residential areas hidden among the greenery. 31 Garlenda the other riviera Vintage cars and old calendars The Golf Club Garlenda’s Golf Club has an 18-hole golf course, varied and perfectly fitted into the landscape. The course is open throughout the year and is almost 6 km long, Par 71; the Club House is equipped with a bar, restaurant and guest house. In addition to the Golf Club there are other high-standard sports facilities such as the “Riviera” country club, site of national competitions, with a horseriding school. A gathering of car enthusiasts from all over the world comes together each summer for the “Raduno Fiat 500” in Garlenda. A sculpture by Antonio Murri is dedicated to the legendary economy car. Calendars and almanacs in dialect and Italian from all over Liguria are displayed each year in the Costa - Del Carretto castle. A monumental tree 32 A short distance away from the golf course, close to the small church of San Rocco, stands the majestic “u Ruve de San Roccu”, an oak tree entered in the list of monumental trees of Liguria; it is 250-300 years old and 24.5 metres high; its trunk has a circumference of more than 4 and a half metres. A little good cuisine Ristorante Pizzeria Il Frantoio is marked by an olive tree for those who arrive by car from the coast. In the centre of the village there is Rosalina, with a ceiling of traditional wooden beams, and Garilinda, in the boarding house of the same name. Both restaurants have a friendly, informal atmosphere. Past the tennis club, in the heart of a group of stone houses close to a small medieval bridge that crosses the stream, is Ristorante Pizzeria da Ingaro with typical cuisine of the valley, while already in open countryside, along the main road that crosses the valley, is the Osteria dei Bischeri, serving Tuscan cuisine of a high standard. For those looking for a touch of elegance, there is Ristorante del Golf Club, in the hotel of the same name, and Ristorante Il Rosmarino, at Hotel Meridiana. To spend the night For those who wish to stay in Garlenda there are three possibilities: the friendly and simple Pensione Garilinda in the village centre, the elegant La Meridiana, among olive groves and vineyards, and Hotel Golf Club, in the residential complex that surrounds the golf course. The towns of wine While enjoying a delicious meal and a relaxing game of golf we should not forget that the municipality of Garlenda belongs to “le Città del Vino” (Towns of Wine) Association. Garlenda Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 580 056 www.inforiviera/blu/garlenda.cfm Centro Ippico "Riviera" Borgo Villa 5, tel. 0182 582 807 Hotel e Ristorante "Golf Club" via del Golf 7, tel. 0182 580 012 Hotel "La Meridiana" Relais & Chateaux e Ristorante "Il Rosmarino" via ai Castelli 11, tel. 0182 580 271 closed November-March Osteria dei Bischeri Borgo Chiappa 23, tel. 0182 582 599 Pensione e Ristorante "Garilinda" via Roma 121, tel. 0182 580 059 Ristorante Pizzeria da Ingaro Borgo Ponte 21, tel. 0182 580 525 Ristorante Pizzeria "Il Frantoio" via Lerrone 56, tel. 0182 582 046 Ristorante "Rosalina" via Roma 61, tel. 0182 580 064 Tennis Club "Garlenda" with restaurant Borgo Ponte 31, tel. 0182 580 048 33 the other riviera Casanova Lerrone CASANOVA LERRONE Hills of agricultural tourism In the hamlet of Maremo Sottano you can check at Agriturismo “Gli Ulivi”, which has a barbecue and produces oil of the Western Savona Riviera DOP (Protected Designation of Origin). From here you can wander along a path through the olive groves. Agriturismo Il Poggio is found at the summit in Marmòreo; it is a farmhouse surrounded by chestnut trees on a hill with wonderful views towards the Lerrone Valley and the Arroscia Valley. It produces oil and oil products, wine, vegetables, fruit and jam. In its restaurant you can sample ravioli, pancakes and other exquisite home cooking. In the same area there is Agriturismo Le Macine, on a hill of olive groves with a beautiful terrace; it produces extravirgin olive oil and vegetables and rears farmyard animals; it offers dishes of the regional cuisine and local cheeses, “pan frito”, fresh pasta, rabbit, goat... Still in the Marmòreo area, apartments in a 17th century house at the limits of a large olive grove in the hamlet of Roviera are offered by Agriturismo Santa Lucia, and a further apartment is on offer in Cà di Berti at Agriturismo di Angelo Schivo, an olive-grower and oil producer. In the centre of Casanova, Moreno Grenna has rooms available. 34 Immersed in a sea of hills 800 inhabitants scattered in different hamlets at various altitudes upon the hill slopes covered with olive groves and woods. This is Casanova Lerrone, whose territory includes almost all of the upper Lerrone Valley. It has the typical scenery of interior Liguria, a territory of beautiful excursions towards the coast or towards the province of Imperia, among pine trees and olive groves or the meadows and oak tree woods of the Ginestro pass. Among the old houses rises the castle of the Doria family, while in the hamlet of Bossanico, among cypress and eucalyptus trees, is the castle Poggiolo, with 17th century rooms and furnishings. One of the hamlets is Marmòreo, with stone houses of a beige-grey tone, scattered along the open ridge towards the Arroscia Valley and the first peaks of the Maritime Alps. Degna is a village of ancient houses grouped together in the form of a cross under the tall bell tower of the parish church. Testico Lerrone Valley, Mèrula Valley More addresses for eating and sleeping In Vèllego there is the elegant Ristorante Pinnochio almost at the summit of the valley: here you can try snails and the local specialities buridda (fish stew) and zemin. In Marmòreo there is the welcoming Hotel Ristorante La Pineta and the charming Hotel Ristorante Primosole. Delicious cuisine of the hills Here the exquisite Pigato DOC is produced and the rare Barbarossa grapevine can be found. Pigato is used to prepare a dish of rabbit and wine, a traditional dish together with stuffed chard and pumpkin leaves. Seekers of oil should head to the olivemill Frantoio di Bartolomeo Castellari in the hamlet of Marmòreo to taste oil, pickles and olives in brine. Casanova Lerrone Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 74 014 www.inforiviera.it/blu/casanova.cfm Affittacamere Moreno Grenna, via Case Soprane 4, tel. 0182 74 318 Agriturismo di Angelo Schivo Cà di Berti 55, Frazione Marmòreo, tel. 0182 74 304 Agriturismo "Gli Ulivi" Frazione Maremo Sottano 9, tel. 0182 74 149 Agriturismo "II Poggio" Frazione Marmòreo, via Poggio 97, tel. 0182 74 040 Agriturismo "Le Macine” Frazione Marmòreo 81, tel. 0182 74 268 Agriturismo "Santa Lucia" Frazione Marmòreo, borgata Roveira 116/124, tel. 0182 74 342 Frantoio Bartolomeo Castellari Frazione Marmòreo 80, tel. 0182 74 042 Hotel Ristorante "Primosole" Frazione Marmòreo 41, tel. 0182 74 025 Ristorante "La Pineta", Frazione Costa 75, tel. 0182 74 053 Ristorante "Pinocchio" Frazione Vèllego, piazza Giardino 70/A, tel. 0182 74 168 35 the other riviera Testico TESTICO This hill, always dear to me… Eat, drink and sleep a while The simple but tasty country cuisine of Tèstico is celebrated by the summer festival of frittelle (pancakes) followed in autumn by the festival of chestnuts; try different fare accompanied by Pigato DOC. Here the restaurants are friendly but refined: in the central village square you can find the inn Locanda del Riso e dell’Oblio, which defines itself as an “atypical restaurant”; it has a veranda with an extraordinary view and offers wine tasting, Piedmontese cuisine and cheese plus the beer Menabrea produced in Biella, one of the best light beers of the world (as claimed by Americans). The inn also has some rooms available. Across the road the Taverna degli Orsi serves tasty Tèstico specialties; next to the inn, Adriana Merello has some cosy rooms to rent and in the small alleys, or “caruggi”, of the old village there is Agriturismo di Licia Ricci. Along the road that descends the Mèrula Valley towards Stellanello, in the hamlet of Dani, you can find Ristorante Al Frantoio, where you can dine – weather permitting – at tables positioned outside around an olive tree, tasting Ligurian dishes flavoured by the local oil. High upon the right-hand slope of the upper Lerrone Valley, coloured in October and November by the yellow and red of the leaves of chestnut, maple and alder trees, in the hamlet of Ginestro, there is Agriturismo Il Poggio. 36 Tèstico has little more than 200 inhabitants, it is a hill village stretched along the ridge that separates the Lerrone Valley and the Mèrula Valley, reachable from Alassio by a scenic climbing route or from Casanova Lerrone by crossing the Ginestro pass. Its history began with the Romans, then the village was governed by the bishop of Albenga, by the Doria family and by Savoy until it reached the present, with only olive and chestnut groves to colour its landscape. On foot and by bicycle on the battle fields The mountains of Tèstico are not short of trekking and mountain bike trails: from Tèstico you can climb to the pass of San Giacomo di Cesio, to the Ginestro pass (677 m), to the peak Pizzo d’Evigno (989 m), or Mount Arosio (839 m). The nearby Guerra pass was once the ancient border between the Republic of Genoa and the Kingdom of Sardinia. The territories of Tèstico and Casanova Lerrone are crossed by the route “Fischia il vento”, dedicated to the partisan Felice Cascione. Stellanello Val Lerrone, Val Mèrula Olives and pottery Vittorio Sibelli produces and sells his oil in Caselle, on the road that comes up from Andora, and inside the town hall Riccardo Aicardi has a stone olive press embellished with multi-coloured ceramics by his wife Paola Maestri who also decorates and personalizes the oil bottles for sale. Testico: Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 668 091 - www.inforiviera.it/blu/testico.cfm Affittacamere Adriana Merello piazza IV Novembre, tel. 0182 669 007 Agriturismo di Licia Ricci via G. Marconi 4, tel. 0182 668 166 Agriturismo Il Poggio Ginestro, tel. 0182 668 222, 347 920 26 96 Azienda Agricola di Riccardo Aicardi (oil, decorated bottles, pottery) via della Vittoria 3, tel. 0182 668 077 Frantoio di Vittorio Sibelli Borgo Caselle 1, tel. 0182 668 039 Locanda del Riso e dell’Oblio piazza IV Novembre 7bis, tel. 0182 668 087, [email protected] Ristorante Al Frantoio Località Dani, on the road for Stellanello, tel. 0182 668 157 Taverna degli Orsi piazza IV Novembre 6, tel. 0182 668 074 37 Stellanello the other riviera STELLANELLO Five parishes for a star A five-pointed star is the coat of arms of Stellanello, a rural village of the upper Mèrula Valley with almost 700 inhabitants: in 1305 it was granted the statutes of a city-state and a government composed of five consuls, one for each parish. Its territory is dominated by the peak Pizzo d’Evigno (989 m) and by Mount Ceresa (913 m); from the higher meadows, covered with flowered broom at the start of summer, you can paraglide or fly by motor driven hang-glider. There are also good tracks for mountain bikes and horseback riding. Oil, always oil, wonderful oil A monumental oak tree In the woods of Stellanello, near the church of Santa Maria del Bosco, towers a majestic 200year-old oak tree, included in the list of monumental trees of Liguria. In Stellanello in July there is the festival of extravirgin olive oil. Here an excellent passito wine similar to the “sciacchetrà” of the Cinque Terre is produced. Oil and all olive products are to be found at Frantoio da Olive di Simone Rossi in the hamlet of San Damiano on the ridge, Frantoio da Olive di Domenico Bestoso, with a nice shop in Borgo Nuovo in the valley bottom, Frantoio Artigianale di Mauro Mantello in Albareto above Borgo Nuovo and Giovanni Divizia who produces here but has his shop in Andora. More oil, but this time together with honey, is available from Rosangela Durante in the woods of Santa Maria. The delicious dishes of Stellanello 38 ...can be tasted at Ristorante Antico Borgo, in the hamlet of Ciccioni: home cooking of land produce, fresh pasta, seasonable vegetables, rabbit, wild boar and home made desserts. Other possibilities are the modern Ristorante El Trocadero and Ristorante Laureri, where you can find rabbit, game and the local passito wine sciacchetrà. At Trattoria Mèrula, in a beautiful building of wood and stone, you can enjoy a Texan-style evening with steaks and black beans tex-mex. The Lerrone Valley, The Merula Valley Stellanello: Where, how, when Town Hall tel. 0182 668 476 www.inforiviera.it/blu/stellanello.cfm Frantoio da Olive di Domenico Bestoso Frazione Borgo Nuovo 26, tel./fax 0182 668 031 open from 8.30 to 12.30 and from 14 to 19 Bar Trattoria Merula via San Lorenzo 36 tel. 0182 668 010 Frantoio da Olive di Simone Rossi Frazione San Damiano/Pilone tel. 0182 668 085, 338 127 55 44 in winter Monday and Friday from 8 to 20, summer always open by appointment Divizia Giovanni (oil and pickles) Regione Borgonuovo 10, tel. 0182 668 374, Andora: via Doria 45 Club Ippico (horse club) “Cavallo George” Località Bassaneto, Stellanello tel. 0182 668 979, 335 520 98 75 Frantoio artigianale di Mauro Mantello Frazione Albareto 19 tel. 0182 668 318, 338 154 38 17 open Saturday from 14 to 18 and Sunday from 9 to 12 by appointment Ristorante Antico Borgo Frazione Ciccioni 178, tel. 0182 668 051 Ristorante El Trocadero via Roma 8, tel. 0182 668 021 Ristorante Laureri via Roma, tel. 0182 668 012 Rosangela Durante (honey, oil) Frazione Duranti 12, Località Santa Maria tel. 0182 668 076 39 the other riviera The countryside of Andora Around the lower course of the Mèrula stream stretches a flat country landscape surrounded by scenic hills rich in history. THE VILLAGES OF ANDORA Castello di Andora stands at a height of 95 metres upon a hill to the left side of the stream: it is a fascinating place. The small ancient houses, the impressive remains of the castle, the small early Romanesque church of San Nicolò and the beautiful, larger RomanesqueGothic church of Santi Giacomo e Filippo together create one of the most attractive places in internal Liguria. The banquet of lords and ladies After restoring the spirit with a walk in Castello di Andora, you can turn your attention to the desires of the palate and dine at Ristorante la Casa del Priore, almost at the summit of the hill, or at Pizzeria il Grillo Parlante, at the bottom of the hill. Seekers of aromatic herbs should head to the farm Azienda Agricola Cris’s Spice along the road that climbs to Colla Micheri. The ancient hamlet of Colla Micheri is situated on the Laigueglia hill, which can also be reached from Andora. Thor Heyerdahl lived here for over thirty years. Conna: 320 metres above sea level, with an endless view that goes from the Maritime Alps to the Eastern Ligurian Riviera. The extremely ancient village is delightful, with a medieval urban structure surrounded by olive groves, holm oaks and vineyards, the remains of the “caselle”, shelters built by shepherd in the woods. Here you can dine at Ristorante Pan de Cà, at the start of the slope up to the village, or at Ristorante l’Alpino, at the peak of the village, serving trout. Rollo is a hamlet that rises along the Andora hill. It has a wonderful view of the sea and the plain. Two steps away from the sea Castello di Andora 95 metres asl, 1 km from tollgate A10 of Andora, 2 km from the sea Colla Micheri 162 metres asl, 4 km from tollgate A10 of Andora, 2 km from the sea Conna 320 metres asl, 4 km from tollgate A10 of Andora, 5 km from the sea Mèrula plain 30 metres asl, 1 km from tollgate A10 of Andora, 2 km from the sea Rollo 150 metres asl, 7 km from tollgate A10 of Andora, 1 km from the sea The hamlets of Andora Where, how, when Azienda Agricola Cris’s Spice Castello di Andora Strada Castello-Colla Micheri 13 tel. 338 314 1984 Pizzeria il Grillo Parlante Castello di Andora - via al Castello 1 tel. 0182 85 109 Ristorante la Casa del Priore Castello di Andora - via al Castello tel. 0182 87 330 Ristorante l’Alpino Conna - via P. Cavassa 51, tel. 0182 80 037 Ristorante Pan de Cà Conna - Strada Comunale di Conna 13 tel. 0182 80 290 lo la Ro l P de ian lM a èr u a nn Co C M oll ic a he ri C di ast A ell nd o or a ANDORA The Mèrula Plain Where, how, when Azienda Agricola Giordano via del Santo, San Bartolomeo tel. 339 112 4205, 339 326 94 92 B&B Agriturismo il Glicine di Lauro Pisi via Divizia 29a, San Bartolomeo tel. 0182 80 088 Frantoio Artigianale Risso THE PLAIN OF THE MÈRULA STREAM via Divizia 114 a, San Bartolomeo Leave the coast behind and, before confronting the hills of the upper valley, you will find the Mèrula plain, a fresh and peaceful environment, crossed by a clear blue stream, where frogs croak and birds nest. Some useful addresses along the stream In San Giovanni, almost facing each other upon the right bank, are Ristorante Basciaricò (mainly but not exclusively fish) and Trattoria Manin. On the left bank, there is the opportunity for a break in San Pietro at Ristorante Peccati di Gola; in San Bartolomeo at Ristorante il Pozzo (where there is actually a well) and the pleasant Trattoria da u Vescu and Trattoria Stella da Patin, in the shadow of pergolas and trees. Near the large church of San Bartolomeo is Ristorante Braceria Birreria Italo’s, which offers exotic meat such as ostrich, reared at the nearby B&B Agriturismo il Glicine. Golden oil Continuing along the Mèrula plain you can follow a ruote along the left bank with breaks to allow for the tasting of the oil of this land at the farm Oltre d’Or, and at the olive-mills Frantoio Artigianale Risso and Fratelli Morro, situated in a stone building beyond the stream. Also worth a visit is the farm Azienda Agricola Giordano, on the hill behind San Bartolomeo, which follows the motto “we are with you straight away”. tel. 0182 86 150 Fratelli Morro (olive-mill) via Divizia 33, San Bartolomeo tel. 0182 800 79 Otre d’Or (oil and oil products) strada Piangrande 17, San Pietro tel. 0182 85 722, 339 563 8347 Ristorante Basciaricò, via Molineri 52a, San Giovanni tel. 0182 80 187 Ristorante Braceria Birreria Italo’s via Divizia 15, San Bartolomeo tel. 0182 680 601 Ristorante il Pozzo Località Piazza 3, San Bartolomeo tel. 0182 80 143 Ristorante Peccati di Gola strada Piangrande 27, San Pietro tel. 0182 89 260 Trattoria da u Vescu via Divizia 62, San Bartolomeo tel. 0182 680 610 Trattoria Manin via Molineri 23, San Giovanni tel. 0182 80 011 Trattoria Stella da Patin via Divizia 70, San Bartolomeo tel. 0182 80 034 41 the other riviera The Alassio hill A cascade of olive groves, pine trees and vineyards The hill that surrounds the scenic Alassio bay is extremely steep. Steep and green, covered with elegant villas and rows of olive groves and vineyards, not to mention the woods of chestnut and pine trees. Among the woods and cultivated land some small villages are like red spots amid the expanse of green vegetation. THE ALASSIO HILL Sun-kissed Solva clings at a height of 110 metres on the hill overlooking Alassio and the sea. Higher up many vineyards and woods rise up to the scenic holy shrine of Madonna delle Grazie where you will find Ristorante Castello. In Solvo you can dine at Ristorante Liguria, with grilled meat and pizzas. Moglio is similar to Solva, apart from the slightly more rural tone of its houses and alleys which look down upon Alassio from a height of 200 metres. Excellent places to have a break to eat are the straightforward and cordial Trattoria degli Amici, Trattoria 3 stelle, and a little higher up, Pizzeria Crocetta. In the charming hamlet of Vegliasco, which contains an ancient tower, there is Ristorante Cliff Garden renowned for its creative cuisine. The Alassio hill Where, how, when Two steps away from the sea Moglio 200 metri slm, 14 km dal casello A10 di Albenga, 4 km dal mare (Alassio) Solva 110 metri slm, 11 km dal casello A10 di Albenga, 3 km dal mare (Alassio) 42 Vegliasco 250 metri slm, 16 km dal casello A10 di Albenga, 6 km dal mare (Alassio) • Pizzeria Crocetta via Ottone I 115, Moglio, tel. 0182 469 220 • Ristorante al Castello Località Madonna delle Grazie 17, tel. 0182 642 873 • Ristorante Liguria via Lepanto 1, Solva, tel. 0182 644 744 • Trattoria degli Amici via F. Airaldi 165, Moglio • Trattoria Tre Stelle via F. Airaldi 9, Moglio • Ristorante Cliff Garden Località Vegliasco 15, tel. 0182 469 033 the other riviera The valleys of Andora and Ceriale GARESSIO CUNEO ORMEA CUNEO Monte Alpe 1056 S.S .2 8 COL DI NAVA CUNEO Monte Grande 1418 Nasino PIEVE DI TECO Passo del Ginestro Castell’Ermo 1094 T. A ennavaira cia erro ne P T. Onzo Casanova Lerrone Pizzo d’Evigno 989 Castelvecchio di Rocca Barbena Cisano sul Neva Ortovero San Giovanni San Pietro Martinetto 2 . 58 S.P Poggio Grande 802 Villanova d’Albenga eva èrula T. M Garlenda Zuccarello Arnasco S.S. 453 Stellanello RoccaBarbena 1142 Erli rros T. L Testico Castelbianco Vendone S.P Bastia o .5 82 Conna T. Torser T. N San Bartolomeo Sàlea Vegliasco Lusignano Rollo Solva BORGHETTO SANTO SPIRITO San Fedele Andora . S.S 1 Laigueglia Albenga Alassio S.S. 1 Capo Santa Croce Isola Gallinara Ceriale SAVONA GENOVA IMPERIA FRANCIA Colla Micheri A10 enta Castello di Andora Peagna Campochiesa F. C Moglio 0 A1 Leca the other riviera How to consult this guide This guide describes each valley of the territory along routes that go “municipality by municipality”. Each area includes different topics highlighted by symbols and a colour code: Locality Wine, Oil, Distillates Nature and Sport Gastronomy Art and History Information and Useful Numbers Accommodation The territory map uses these symbols: Airport Typical products and Agritourism Port Bed&Breakfast Crafts Golf Monument Olives and oil Wine Sport Organic Farming Beach Restaurant Plants and flowers The information regarding each business was checked by the editor and was updated at the end of May 2004. Thanks in advance to our readers for reporting any changes. As they are subject to variations, opening hours of restaurants are available on the website www.inforiviera.it or by calling the establishments. The information contained in this booklet is in no way derived from advertisements. Editorial production: M&R Comunicazione - Genova Texts: Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio Editing: Fabrizio Calzia English translation: Michelle Thomas Graphic design and make-up: Alessia Massari Map and illustrations: Marco Ferraris Photography: Archivio APT Riviera delle Palme, Archivio M&R, Fabrizio Calzia, Renato Cottalasso, Gian Antonio Dall’Aglio, Fabrizio Gioberti, Fabio Lombrici, Alessia Massari, Santo Piano, Andrea Siri Printing: Algraphy – Genova © 2004, Azienda di Promozione Turistica Riviera delle Palme Headquarter Alassio (17021) - Viale Gibb, 26 tel. 0182 647 11 - fax 0182 644 690 www.inforiviera.it e-mail: [email protected] Information and Tourist Reception Offices - I.A.T. Alassio & Le Baie del Sole Il Finalese Alassio (17021) Via Mazzini, 68 tel. 0182 647 027 fax 0182 647 874 e-mail: [email protected] Albenga (17031) Viale Martiri della Libertà, 1 tel. 0182 558 444 - fax 0182 558 740 e-mail: [email protected] Andora (17051) Via Aurelia, 122/a - Villa Laura tel. 0182 681 004 fax 0182 681 807 e-mail: [email protected] Ceriale (17023) Via Aurelia, 224/a tel. 0182 993 007 - fax 0182 993 804 e-mail: [email protected] Garlenda (17033) seasonal Via Roma, 1 tel. e fax 0182 582 114 e-mail: [email protected] Laigueglia (17053) Via Roma, 2 tel. 0182 690 059 fax 0182 691 798 e-mail: [email protected] Villanova d’Albenga (17038) seasonal Via Garibaldi, 5 tel. e fax 0182 582 498 e-mail: [email protected] Bardineto (17057) seasonal Piazza della Chiesa, 6 tel. 019 790 72 28 - fax 019 790 72 93 e-mail: [email protected] Bergeggi (17042) seasonal Via Aurelia - tel. e fax 019 859 777 e-mail: [email protected] Calizzano (17057) seasonal Piazza San Rocco - tel. e fax 019 791 93 e-mail: [email protected] Finale Ligure (17024) • Finalmarina - Via San Pietro, 14 tel. 019 681 019 - fax 019 681 804 e-mail: [email protected] • Finalborgo seasonal Piazza Porta Testa tel. 019 680 954 - fax 019 681 57 89 e-mail: [email protected] Millesimo (17017) Piazza Italia, 27 tel. 019 560 00 78 - fax 019 560 09 70 e-mail: [email protected] Noli (17026) Corso Italia, 8 - tel. 019 749 90 03 - fax 019 749 93 00 e-mail: [email protected] Spotorno (17028) Piazza Matteotti, 6 tel. 019 741 50 08 - fax 019 741 58 11 e-mail: [email protected] Varigotti (17029) seasonal Via Aurelia, 79 - tel. 019 698 013 - fax 019 698 88 42 e-mail: [email protected] Il Savonese & Il Varazzino Borghetto Santo Spirito (17052) Piazza Libertà, 1 tel. e fax 0182 950 784 e-mail: [email protected] Borgio Verezzi (17022) seasonal Via Matteotti, 158 tel. e fax 019 610 412 e-mail: [email protected] Loano (17025) Corso Europa, 19 tel. 019 676 007 fax 019 676 818 e-mail: [email protected] Pietra Ligure (17027) Piazza San Nicolò, 36 tel. 019 629 003 fax 019 629 790 e-mail: [email protected] Toirano (17055) Piazzale Grotte tel. 0182 989 938 fax 0182 984 63 e-mail: [email protected] Albissola Marina (17012) Albisola Superiore (17013) Passeggiata E. Montale, 21 tel. 019 400 20 08 - fax 019 400 30 84 e-mail: [email protected] Celle Ligure (17015) Via Boagno - Palazzo Comunale tel. 019 990 021 - fax 019 999 97 98 e-mail: [email protected] Pontinvrea (17040) seasonal Piazza Indipendenza, 1 tel. 019 705 001 - fax 019 705 269 e-mail: [email protected] Sassello (17046) seasonal Via G.B. Badano, 45 tel. 019 724 020 - fax 019 723 832 e-mail: [email protected] Savona (17100) Corso Italia, 157 r tel. 019 840 23 21 - fax 019 840 36 72 e-mail: [email protected] Varazze (17019) Via Matteotti, 56 - Palazzo Beato Jacopo tel. 019 935 043 - fax 019 935 916 e-mail: [email protected] free copy Il Loanese & Il Pietrese