Quaderni d`italianistica : revue officielle de la Société canadienne

Transcript

IMAGES OF CANADIAN CITIES IN
ITALY:
THEN AND NOW
MATTEO
Summary: This
article
SANFILIPPO
examines the writings of Itahan
travellers
in
Canada and discusses how they affected and affect the images of
Canadian cities in Italian culture. The article begins by looking at recent
writings by one famous Italian author, Pier Vittorio Tondelli, and then
moves back
examine
to
on Canada. In
this
his predecessors in the Italian literary
manner, the
article tries to see
to sketch a genealogy of Italian descriptions of
whether
Canadian
production
it is
possible
cities.
Travel narratives
In the
1
980s, cultural historian Paul Fussell suggested that travel narratives
might become a
first,
but a
of research
field
field that finally
—one
might be
that
would be rewarding
difficult to
(Fussel,
—
— and
at
1980 and 1987).'
Since then, travel literature has been approached from a
number of
per-
gender, nationalism, imperialism, orientalism, exoticism, and
spectives
so forth
map
the bibliography
on the subject has grown
at a steady pace.-
Very often, cultural historians focus on British or American, French or
Spanish travellers because their writings
fit
the latter categories, and the
only exception has been the search for a woman's point of view (Tinling,
More
1993; Siegel, 2004).
non-European
To
recent approaches have proposed analysis of
travel writing,^ suggesting that travel literature
may
present
lighten the apparatus, short bibliographical references will henceforth be
given in parentheses in the
Gabriele
Scardellato,
Eisenbichler
who
body of the
Richard
article.
Ambrosini,
A
owed to
Konrad
paper and made helpful
debt of gratitude
Olga
Pugliese,
kindly read an earlier version of this
is
and
suggestions.
See the specialised journal Studies in Travel Writing (1997-), and: Pratt, 1992;
Brothers and Gergits, 1997-1999; Holland, 2000; Schweizer, 2001;
Hulme and
Young, 2002; Burdett and Duncan, 2002; Speake, 2003; Mancali, 2006.
^Khair, 2006.
too
far,
looking
To some
extent, however,
we could argue
that the research has
leaving us to confront a gigantic "mise en abyme", in which
at others that are
Quaderni
looking
d'italianistica.
at others ....
Volume XXVIII, No.
1,
2007, 33
gone
someone
is
Matteo
Sanfilippo
an even wider range of perspectives than expected, and that by studying
them we might unearth
The
different views of the "other."
expands the hst of the nationahties of
present study
above by
travel writers presented
who
including Italians; more specifically, Italian travellers of different types
who commented,
now "a lucrative and
journeyed to Canada and
Travel writing
Amazon.com
is
says (January
incredible
2007) in the ad
on the
listed in its section
in particular,
number of texts by and about
for
is
we overwhelmed by an
but we are also facon the web. At
and then analyze
skip the introduction
and concentrate on the
without a
will consider
critical
of
I
one cannot synthesize
one can only
case study. In this instance,
only the writing of Italian travellers to Canada,
introduction, and
this limited goal,
i.e.
a case study. Rather,
will discuss
I
on the images of Canadian
their literature
this
unable to deal with the subject in only 20 pages and a
the critical discussion
I
life.
travel writers,
standard academic strategy cannot be pursued;
therefore,
urban
one of the over 9,300 books
are
ing an extremely rich production of travel writing
point, a scholar
its
enjoyable writer's market" as
Not only
topic.
on
will start
only the influence of
cities in Italian culture.
Because
with recent writings by a famous
Italian
author and then search backward for his precedessors in previous Italian
literary
production on Canada. In
this
a genealogy of Italian descriptions of
Pier Vittorio Tondelli
and Quebec
way,
it
Canadian
to sketch
cities.
City
In 1987, Pier Vittorio Tondelli (1955-1991),
post-modern
might be possible
one of the most important
Quebec City
Italian writers, travelled to
for a conference
on
Jack Kerouac (Tondelli, 1990). His contribution to the subsequent confer-
ence proceedings
is
is
a standard essay
on Kerouac's
influence, but even if this
of limited academic importance, Tondelli's journey to Quebec City was
not a
failure:
during his
Then, once back
in Italy,
trip the writer elaborated
he produced
two years
later,
impressions and worked
them
ference and,
In the
a
couple of short
assembled his notes,
work described (and
a
on the con-
articles
so he was out of place
is)
is
his
the consequence of a double
Quebec
to the
lost his roots
and became
and out of touch wherever he
United
no longer looking only
at
— 34 —
this
a cultural drop-out,
lived. Starting
observation, Tondelli writes mainly about never being at
Therefore, he
and
double marginalization (Tondelli, 1987). Because of
double migration, Kerouac
this
articles
his
into his last novel.
migration (from Europe to Quebec, and from
and of
ideas for his work.
short piece Tondelli produced, he underlined the observa-
first
tion that Kerouac's
States)
new
Kerouac and
from
home.
at the conference.
Images of Canadian Cities
Rather, he
is
is
concerned with
own
his
in Italy:
Then and Now
presence in
Quebec
City, a place that
not only foreign to him but also considerably different from anything he
had expected before leaving
Tondelli writes that according to any
Italy.
Quebec City is in Canada, but because of his physical presence
there he realizes that Quebec City is not a Canadian settlement. To illustrate his point, he tells Italian readers how one barman categorically refused
to serve him a Canadian beer, claiming that nobody in Quebec City drinks
Italian atlas
Canadian
beer.
This
is
Quebec City is not
is Quebec City
what
City
is
a (North)
actually a
a regular
but
lie,
(i.e.
it
English-speaking) Canadian
for the Italian writer?
American
locale.
helps Tondelli demonstrate that
The
first
answer
city.
that
is
But
Quebec
Before the conference, the writer goes
Grand Dérangement. The session is led by
a Californian bluesman, Mark Murphy, who recites a few lines from On the
Road as a poetic mantra during his performance. Quebec City is not
Canada, and Quebec is not a province of the United States, but there is
something that links Quebec to the United States and Quebec City to
to a
jam
session at the club Le
California.
The second
short piece
begins in a coffee bar
—
is
only to public spaces (Tondelli,
fast
of coffee,
cisely
on
sausages,
It
to be linked
the writer enjoys his break-
which he considers
then claims that Quebec City
mixed up and
when he
America
and
particularly in factual errors.
Canadian experience seems
is
"in America,
to be very
more
pre-
the Atlantic Coast of Canada, in Quebec". His geography seems
to be badly
ticular
toast, eggs
He
"American".
—
1993) — where
richer
Tondelli's
in
a few lines later even his history
is
wrong,
in par-
explains that the French started the colonization of
Canada, and were then followed by the British
the continent "three
hundred
years ago". Calculating back
ference date of October 1987, this
Conquest occurred
who conquered
means
from the con-
that for Tondelli the British
in 1687!
After twisting around any normal conception of Canadian geography
and
history, Tondelli presents a perfectly safe stereotype for travellers in
According to him, Quebec City
Canada: nature
vs.
European
he mentions the narrowness of the
walls
locale:
and even
Frontenac!).
civilization.
Still, it is
is
a
European Disneyland (maybe he
not a true
castle?) in the
wilderness, but a mild wilderness, a wilderness
have also an appropriate
if
is
a
town
Château
realized that the
middle of the American
tamed and
fairyland. The Kerouac Conference was held from
falling in
the old
a castle (probably a mistaken reference to the
Château Frontenac
and
streets,
1
to
beautified, a
4 October, so we
standard description of maple leaves reddening
autumn.
— 35 —
Matteo
At
point
this
stereotypes,
sensing the danger of compiUng too
tiie writer, as if
jumps
Sanfilippo
many
to another subject: the guided tour he took to the places
where the Kerouac family
United
lived before leaving for the
States.
Once
again, Tondelli shows his shaky knowledge of Quebec's geography: he
Cap
claims that he visited
but he
City,
Saint-Ignace,
was on a "Greyhound
that he
which
lies
when
bus while,
style"
Montreal to Quebec City, he took a Voyageur bus:
this
is
travelling
it is
is
not very appealing: the day
The
buildings in sight and everything
Tondelli's last novel
is
a sad
and moving
Thomas,
his
is
much
there are
no colonial
on Quebec
better than his articles
who is forced to accept the
The working-through of the
story about Leo,
and
friend
lover.5
Quebec
time) that goes from Montreal to
on Kerouac we
descrip-
grey and
is
new.
is
bereavement carried Leo on a bus ("Greyhound
the conference
rainy, the river
New France because
imagine living in
difficult to
is
from
a seemingly irrel-
evant statement that will acquire greater significance below.
tion of the tour
Quebec
south-east of
he travelled north-east.^ At the same time he adds
states that
already
style",
City.
Leo
City:
it
death of
fictional
Tondelli specifies this
is
registered to attend
know about and he
has travelled by
plane from Milan to Montreal. In the bus, the fictional "I" looks out at the
Olympic
village, the great boulevards, the bridges
finally the "great
from
flight
Italy
North-American
road for another four hours.
Leo
sky."
and he knows that
is
to reach
The bus
is
lazily
from Greece to
new
observing his fellow passengers
Italy.
Maybe, he
sense to his days:
A
few days
retells his
later,
it
might link the
Leo goes
to
story about the jazz club
the last page of Kerouac's
down and
I sit
skies over
New
lievable
thinks, this
On
huge bulge over
to
darkness the tired
when he remembers
Canadian journey
"So
in
a trip
will give a
Now Tondelli
America when the sun goes
river pier
that
is
watching the long, long
raw land that
West Coast, and
to the
be on the
and the Californian bluesman intoning
all
But Tondelli's reminiscence here
narrator compares his
this half
Le Grand Dérangement.
the Road:
and sense
will
fiiture to the past.
on the old broken-down
Jersey
and
and dark; but from time
time he sees city-lights blazing along the road. In
traveller
St Lawrence,
Quebec City he
silent
is
on the
very tired after his eight-hour
more
all
one unbe-
that road going, ...".
articulated
own "dérangement" with
rolls in
and the
Kerouac's.
fist-person
Leo thinks
that
people attending the conference are Kerouac's truest friends because they
want
to
thank him for
how he
has affected them, for having given
See Francis Catalanes footnote at
p.
20 of his translation of Oltre
^Tondelli, 1989, pp. 205-216.
— 36 —
them
il fiume,
a
1995.
Walking alone
taste for poetry.
he
Now
Then and
Leo understands that
after the conference,
"derange" like Kerouac because his writing has insulated
is
normal people.
cisely
what
He
own
realizes also that his
him
him from
writing, like Kerouac's,
pre-
is
Then he goes
pub Saint-Alexandre on rue Saint-Jean. He drinks beer (Quebec
understands that life goes on and feels a hint of desire for a young
to the
beer),
will give
man, something
the
in Italy:
that he
the chance to be read by everybody.
had not experienced since
page of the novel Leo
last
is
his partner's illness. In
in a small turbo-prop airplane flying to
Montreal. His stay in Quebec City has ended and in a few hours he will be
in
now knows, he
Milan where, he
epiphany
Leo's (and Tondelli's)
before dealing with
of
On
the Road.
Quebec City
in
us consult the quotation
let
it,
will start to live again.
As Tondelli had done
very interesting but,
is
from the
conference, Leo also abbreviated the quotation that, in
So
in
America when the sun goes down and
river pier
raw land that
Coast, and
ty
all
that road going,
land where they
you know
that
I
I
skies over
sit
all
God
is
on the old broken-down
New Jersey and sense all
the children
Pooh Bear? the evening
shedding her sparkler dims on the
prairie,
must be crying
stars'll
star
which
in the
be out, and don't
must be drooping and
is
just before the
ing of complete night that blesses the earth, darkens
peaks and folds the final shore
that
West
to the
the people dreaming in the immensi-
know by now
children cry, and tonight the
let
about the
entirety, runs:
its
one unbelievable huge bulge over
rolls in
of it, and in Iowa
final sentences
in his previous short article
com-
cups the
all rivers,
and nobody, nobody knows what's
in,
going to happen to anybody besides the forlorn rags of growing old,
think of
we
At
tor
is
York
(that
this
back
to
Dean
never found,
moment
in
New
Denver and
is,
Moriarry,
I
think of
Dean
Moriarty. (Kerouac,
On
the Road)
in the text, Sal Paradise, Kerouac's first-person narra-
Jersey
to
and
is
remembering
San Francisco.
He
is
his
long travels from
also thinking
ill.
left
when
New
of Dean Moriarty
the writer's friend Neil Cassady). Moriarty/Cassady
Mexico with Paradise/ Kerouac, but he
became
I
even think of Old Dean Moriarty the father
I
the
went
to
narrator/writer
This truncated quotation, therefore, leaves us with a feeling of
ambiguity. Leo could be hinting that, like Sal, he should no longer depend
on
his friend; or
Thomas as
could now
Sal
he could only be stressing that he has been abandoned by
was abandoned by Dean; or could he be saying only
think of
Thomas without any
"on the old broken-down
Jersey",
and he
is
river pier
anguish? Actually Sal
is
that
he
sitting
skies over
New
looking West (Iowa and the West Coast), while Leo
is
drinking beer in Quebec City and looking East (Milan). Regardless, both
— 37 —
Matteo
first-person narrators are sitting
on the East Coast,
Tondelli's geograpliical notion of
coast
on the way
a step
is
Quebec
as
to California or
according to
being the Atlantic coast of
The New Jersey
east
Mexico, while the Quebec
east
a trait-d'union between North America and Europe. In the two
is
Greyhound buses
novels.
North America,
crisscross
the wilderness, but whether they are going
losing themselves in
West or East they
back to Europe. The Greyhound-style (but
travelling
is,
at least
their respective East Coasts are different.
Canada, but
coast
Sanfilippo
it
was
are always
a Voyager, that
Canadian and not an American) bus that takes Leo from Montreal
a
Quebec City
ness
is
passes through
many
small towns, but
to
on the road the dark-
defeated by "city lights", while in the night imagined by Kerouac
"the stars'U be out".
According to Tondelli, therefore, Quebec
to Europe, even if
not Europe. In
it is
is
there
fact,
an urban country, linked
is
a discussion about beer
Quebec "grosses bières" are
but Quebec City people drink
that could help us understand this connection:
from the refined European ones,
different
European
America
beers.
Quebec
America
tion of
Americans
an urban society that longs for Europe, while
a
is
says only that
modern
is
of Kerouac's
fact,
he does not write about Canada, he
not (English) Canada, but he never provides a def-
of English Canada.
in
his idea
version of Turner's Frontier Thesis. But what about
of Canada? In
Quebec
Leonard Cohen,
one and
a very stereotypical
is
his interpretation
inition
is
a rural country that looks West. Clearly, Tondelli's interpreta-
is
Among
his writings there
which he does not even mention
is
a short piece
that the singer
English-speaking poet from Montreal (Tondelli, 1988). Does this
is
on
an
mean
Canada is a kind of minor America? I do not
know, and maybe he never wondered about the essence of English Canada:
that for Tondelli English
it
may be
that
it
simply did not
exist for
him.
Since the 1980s Italian writers and poets seem to have had a lot to do
with their colleagues from Quebec. As noted. Tondelli was invited to participate in the
ning
Kerouac conference. Valerio Magrelli, the
Italian poet, has
Catalano and has travelled to Quebec.
and
in particular
duction.
'^'
A
capitale
cities
and
la
38
—
Francis
about
his trip,
Montreal
culture, therefore, are
cellulose", p. 27).
win-
critic
industrial paper proin
on contemporary
2000 and 2005 ("De notre envoyé
mondiale de
its
have been
Italian poets
to prepare a dossier
(Catalano, 2005). Quebec's
"Magrelli,
He even wrote a poem
about the city of Sherbrooke and
group of younger
where they helped
Feltrinelli-prize
been translated by Montreal poet and
recently,
Italian
known
spécial à Trois-Rivières,
poetry
to Italian
Québec,
guidebooks and
writers, while in Italian
Then and
in Italy:
Now
of many
in the travel section
Italian
newspapers one can find items about Quebec City and Montreal. But are
Canadian
(English)
cities
unknown
to Italian travellers?
necessary to compile a dossier starting with the
At
this
point
it
is
first Italian visitors.
Early Italian travellers (from the eighteenth century to 1920)
Risorgimento, exiles
a)
The few
Italians
and priests: a political look
who
visited
seamen who have not
first
left
Italian descriptions
America that appeared
New
at Canadian
France were missionaries, soldiers, or
any descriptions of colonial settlements.^ The
of Canadian
afiier
the
are in
cities
books about North
American Revolution. Luigi Castiglioni
(1785-1787) and Paolo Andreani (1790) travelled
Washington and
to
cities
New
also visited
New
to
York and
Orleans, Halifax and Montreal in order
understand what had happened in North America.*^ While their com-
ments
are
not very profound, they
set
the guidelines for subsequent
reportage about Canada. According to Andreani, Halifax
and many of its houses
are very elegant, but the small
is
quite beautiful,
town
is
economical-
weak and too dependent on Boston;'' Luigi Castiglioni describes
Montreal as an important town with interesting buildings (in particular
the Sulpitian church), but he added that after the Conquest the town walls
ly
are falling
Italian
down and
the city seems very melancholic. '^ Therefore, the
Canada was too
French Canada was in ruin
reader was given the impression that English
dependent on the United
States
and that
because of the British victory in the Seven Years' War.
The Era of
travels to
the French Revolution temporarily put an end to Italian
North America.
1820. In 1822-1823,
Italian travellers
would next
Giacomo Costantino
cross the ocean after
Beltrami, a political exile,
searched for the source of the Mississippi and described the Native, Métis,
and
British villages in the West, while Alfredo
Dupuoy,
a
merchant from
Leghorn, travelled to the West to study the Canadian fur trade." Both
^Del Negro, 1979, 1983 and 1985; Sanfilippo and Pizzorusso, 2004, chapt.
^Pace, 1983; Dicorato, 2000;
Marino and
Trio,
III.
2006.
Ândreani, 1994, pp. 47-50.
^^Castiglioni, 2000, pp. 117-136.
^
^Beltrami, 1965, pp. 47-48, 139-159.
French: Beltrami, 1824.
Beltrami
(1828), 2005.
Now
The
first
the reprint of the
Dupouy's manuscript
Mamiani], 1827; cf Pizzorusso, 1995.
— 39 —
version of this
first
is
memoir was
English edition
edited
in
is
in
available:
T.M. [Terenzio
Matteo
Sanfilippo
were interested mainly in Native
travellers
the Eastern
American
them, however, other
Frontier. After
and they did not
societies,
saw the Canadian
thus, they
cities:
Prairies as part
travellers
visit
of the
toured North
America and visited the two Canadas and the United States. For them,
Canada meant Lower Canada and very often Lower Canada meant only
Montreal. Thereft)re, they thought that only French-speaking colonists
were Canadians. Nevertheless,
does not
this
mean
that they appreciated
French Canada. For example, in October 1825, Carlo Vidua came to
Montreal ftillowing a suggestion made to him by the Sulpitian Superior in
New York. He
undertook
North American tour
his
to escape the bleakness
is
surprised to realize that the colony
is still
living as if in the reign of Louis
XIV, that feudal laws are not abol-
ished,
and that the ancien régime
of the Restoration in Europe. Vidua
In
1
CsithoVic clergy
is
New York.
837, Federico Confalonieri was exiled to
arrived he travelled to
New
dominant. 12
Orleans and from
As soon
as
he
there he proceeded to
Upper and Lower Canada, stopping
no difference in his descriptions
settlements:
they are too modern and too
Canadian
between American and
Buffalo and Niagara Falls and then to
in
Toronto and Montreal. There
un-European.'-''
1836 and
States
Another
exile,
in the following
and Canada
(Arese,
is
Francesco Arese, arrived in
two
New
York
in
around both the United
years travelled
He
1837 and 2001).
visited
Toronto and
Kingston, which he did not appreciate because they were bad copies of
cities
in
the
United
he liked
Montreal's
downtown.
Canada poor and
sad, because
of the British
States,
Nonetheless, he judged Lower
but
occupation, and he did not like the Catholic clergy and
He was
French Canadians.
still
in
Montreal
the British attitude: he did not understand
in
(in fact,
for the
influence
on
1837 and was puzzled by
why
Great Britain wanted to
control such an unimportant colony. Finally, he
which he admired
its
went
view but disliked because
it
to
Quebec
City,
was dirty and dark
he complained about the shortage of street-lights).
In 1841 Carlo Antonio Gallenga, a third exile, decided to teach Italian
and French
literature in King's College in
Windsor, Nova Scotia, but he
could not stand the weather. Moreover, he was disappointed by both the
college: "Windsor was something between a town and a vil"The College was merely a divinity school."'^ He could not teach
that was
because of the lack of books and students ("Nothing to do
city
and the
lage";
—
l^Vidua, 1834, pp. 105-151.
^^Gallavresi, 1913, pp. 710-716, 723-730, 844-849.
1
"^Gallenga, 1884,
II,
pp. 109-135.
Cf
Cerutti, 1973.
— 40 —
death to me") and he was
in Italy:
Then and
with Judge
left to travel
creator of Sam Slick, the "yankee clockmaker".
as
he enjoyed his
summer
prospect of returning to
1850s, a
the
Holy
United
exiles
and did not
new and
different
See. In 1853,
States,
for permission to leave.
Canada, then, were
Italian travellers in
meddling
like clerical
in political
group of Italians came
to
Gaetano Bedini, internonce
where he was
and was forced
bitterly challenged
to flee to
Canada.
^
5
try for
La
Quebec
City, Montreal, Saint-Hyacinthe,
article stresses the co-existence
It
to Brazil,
by
He wrote
life.
In the
Canada representing
Italian
a portrait
went
to the
and German
of this coun-
the Jesuit journal, in which he describes
Civiltà Cattolica,
in particular in Montreal.
Haliburton, the
enjoyed these rides just
vacation in Halifax, but he shuddered at the
Windsor and asked
This second generation of
political exiles
Thomas
He
Now
and Bytown (Bedini, 1853). The
of different national and immigrant groups,
development of Canadian
also exalts the rapid
Bytown. In the decades
and following
Holy See diplomats enquired about the relationship between
immigrant groups and local societies and analyzed Canadian economic
industrial centres, like
after Bedini,
his lead.
trends: consequently, even in the following century, they always paid con-
Holy See
siderable attention to Montreal."' In 1875, the
him
sent
Monsignor
on the difQuebec City and Montreal in view of the establishment
new Catholic university. While touring the United States, Roncetti
Cesare Roncetti to the United States, asking
to enquire also
ferences between
of a
crossed from Buffalo to Niagara
and then
Falls,
visited Toronto, Kingston,
Montreal, Quebec and Halifax, i'' His report shows that he did not
Ontario and Nova Scotia, nor did he appreciate Quebec
attention was for Montreal
which he defined
Canada. At the same time, he warned
by the
that
city's
as the
his superiors
like
City.'^ All his
economic core of
about the
risks
posed
growth, which might lead to an Americanization of Canada;
rapid economic growth and the immigrants' integration in the
is,
melting pot could, according to him, erase barriers between religious
groups and therefore lead to the
In conclusion, in this
tourists.
They went
to
loss
of the Catholic
period Italian travellers were not mere
first
North America,
^^Sanfilippo, 2003, chapter
faith. '^
visiting
Canada along with
the
II.
For a more detailed analysis: Perin, 1990; Sanfilippo, 2002.
^
Ârchivio Segreto Vaticano, 1875,
18 Archivio
di
ff.
Propaganda Fide, 1875,
Ârchivio Segreto Vaticano, 1875,
1876,
fif.
fiF.
102-109v.
ff.
619-620.
102-109v; Archivio di Propaganda Fide,
90-94v.
— 41 —
Matteo
United
of purposes:
States, for a variety
(Castiglioni,
(a) to
map
the
Andreani);
(b)
of the American Revolution and to
the continent
Sanfilippo
understand the consequences
new
poHtical cartography of
they vêre
because
(Beltrami, Gonfalonieri, Arese) or they were disgusted
exiled
by the European
Restoration (Vidua), and had to spend their time and, sometimes, earn
their living (Gallenga) outside
In this third group,
Canada
as
political
we
Europe;
Roman
The
started
politically
from
different
motivated
cinated by the United States: they found the
new
vigour and
its
was controlling the
in a loosen-
its
economic
country" because
as "a priest-ridden
own freedom.
Roman diplomats
like the fact that
Great
Moreover, they despised French
local colonies.
Canada, which they described
it
did
its
Even the
them too ancien
Catholics; that
Among
fas-
democracy. Consequently, they considered English Canada
poor copy of the United States and they did not
not fight for
were
nation uncouth and
ing of any links to European culture), but they approved
to
to
and some-
travellers
rough (they often wrote about a modernization that resulted
Britain
coming
priests
Vatican diplomats. All these travellers were mainly interested in
and economic matters, but they
times surprising perspectives.
a
(Dupuoy).
for business reasons
(c)
could include also
is,
régime,
Irish
did not appreciate Quebec, which seemed
while they were surprised by immigrant
Catholics in Montreal, Ottawa, and Toronto.
who could help
when Europe was
the immigrants they discovered Catholic fighters
the church conquer
North America, and
becoming too troublesome
coming
to
for the
this at a
Holy
North America were not
time
See. Therefore, Italian priests
so
American) modernity. Maybe, they thought,
by Canadian (and
repelled
this
was the price
to
pay for
finding a friendlier environment (Sanfilippo, 1995).
b)
World
tours,
journalism, emigration,
Priestly visitors
from
Italy
nineteenth century but the
and business (1860-1920)
were not numerous in the second half of the
number of lay
increased. In 1861 a geologist,
Italians
who
travelled to
Giovanni Capellini, undertook a
Canada
scientific
Canada and the United States. After landing in Halifax,
where he visited the local museum, he went to Boston and Cambridge and
ten days later he was in Quebec City. From there he travelled to Montreal
expedition across
and Niagara before going south again
ested in geological research
to the
United
States.
He was
and wrote mainly about geological
Quebec City and Montreal, but he was
also
sites
inter-
around
impressed by the Victoria
Bridge (Capellini, 1864). In his 1910 autobiography he recalled the scientific
meetings he had in Montreal (Capellini, 1910).
— 42 —
Like the Vatican
in Italy:
Now
Then and
diplomats, Capellini was struck by the modernity of the city and this was,
in fact, the leitmotiv
of
on Canada,
Italian writings
invariably described as the commercial capital of the
in
which Montreal
is
Dominion; moreover,
every Italian traveller was deeply impressed by the growing presence of
Italian
immigrants
in that city.
At the same time, every
the Italian "colony" of Montreal as a
way
Italian traveller
to penetrate the
saw
Canadian mar-
ket (Serio, 1989a and 1989b).
From 1861 and
the birth of the
Kingdom of Italy,
tion led Italians to follow developments in Montreal
and immigra-
1864, the journalist Cristoforo Negri suggested that Italian
In
cities.
trade
and other Canadian
traders visit the
importance of
harbour towns of
New
Brunswick and underlined the
immigrant communities
Italian
in British
Columbia. 20 In
1872, A. Gianelli, Italian consul in Montreal, praised the quality of the
city's
harbour and
thriving trade (Gianelli, 1872). In 1877, diplomat
its
Luigi Petich declared that Canadian
tion of Italian migrants, even
cities
could become the main destina-
and the
disliked the "feudal" laws
if Italians
Catholic clergy of Quebec.^'
This trend was reinforced by the
famous
journalist,
He
and Japan.
border to
ly
visit
new
fashion for world tours. In
Niagara
Ottawa, and Quebec City. His writing
like
(the former Bytown).^^ In 1871,
Kingdom of
way
to California.
made
London
Quebec,
a long detour
visiting
American West Coast.
deals in
about
He
on
his
Sardinia in San
He
sailed
some
detail
lyzes the clashes
from
Montreal and Toronto before continuing to the
writes dismissively of the poor architectural taste
Montreal and Toronto and has praise only for Quebec
with immigration in Canadian
Italian migrants,
main-
cities as
importance of immigration and the
Ottawa
Leonetto Cipriani, formerly consul of the
Francisco,
is
and he seems to consider
size
also stresses the
development of new towns
in
a
from San Francisco to Chicago and then crossed the
Falls,
concerned with Canada's enormous
dominant
868
Enrico Besana, visited North America after India, China,
travelled
mere stopovers, but he
to
1
but also about the
Irish.
cities,
City.
He
worrying not only
At the same time, he ana-
between French and English Canadians and comments on
the current of bitter hatred which divides them.23
In the spring of
1
876, Enea Cavalieri, another famous journalist, chose
20Negri, 1864, pp. 109-112 and 389-399.
21 Petich, 1877 (on Canada, pp. 134-138).
^^Besana's reportages were printed in the newspaper
in
many
issues
of the Giornale popolare di
^^Cipriani, 1931,
II,
viaggi,
pp. 187-194.
— 43 —
La
Perseveranza,
1870-1871.
Cf
1
869, and
Surdich, 1995.
Matteo
Canada
as his first stop
on
a
world
Sanfilippo
Three years
tour.
he recalled
later,
experience in what was then the most important Italian journal,
and
Antologia,
1880 he collected and published
in
1878 and 1880). In
(Cavalieri,
ernment because he
felt it
his writing,
he appreciates the British gov-
was trying to close the gap between
Canada. At the same time, he
religions in
his articles in a
states that the
"races"
and
Canadian gov-
to stop the rise of religious fanaticism
ernment was unable
this
Nuova
volume
and the con-
frontation aroused by the school question. Like other Italians, Cavalieri
fascinated by Canada's natural landscapes:
Falls,
Newfoundland and Gaspé, the environs of
the Saguenay, the Thousand Islands, and Lake Ontario. In
disgusted by Canadian cities: Quebec City he finds dirty and
the rugged coast of
Quebec
City,
contrast, he
is
miserable, Fredericton poor,
life.
is
Montmorency and Niagara
He
and Toronto seems not to have any
cultural
declared that the only true metropolis was Montreal, in whose
hands lay the future of the country, because only the immigration from
Europe could balance emigration to the United
States
and provide Canada
with enough manpower.
Italian
immigration
dian setdements, but
it
is
often at the centre of Italian sketches of Cana-
is
not the only topic. In 1876, Pietro Dogliotti
studied the Canadian and American railway system.
stations
tion in
and
railroads;
He
not only praised
he was also favourably impressed by
and around Montreal,
in particular
and Quebec City he found very
new
construc-
by the Victoria Bridge. Toronto
beautiful, but he
was an admirer
especial-
ly of the railway bridge in Niagara (Dogliotti, 1877). Francesco Varvaro
Pojero set out for a tour of the United States and decided to include a short
visit to
Canada: he went to Kingston, Toronto, Montreal, and Quebec
City, but
he did not write about the
is "picturesque. "24
Italian
Embassy
first
three
cities.
The
fourth, he states,
In 1882, Alessandro Dalla Valle di Pomaro, based at the
in
Washington,
visited
Ontario and Quebec, and con-
firmed Dogliotti's and Varvaro Pojero's opinion, but with more
According to him, Toronto
a stay, because of the
is
pleasant and wealthy; Kingston
Thousand
Islands; the Victoria Bridge
and the European part of Montreal
turesque, even
Pratesi
if
is
well built;
detail. -5
is
worthy of
is
a wonder,
Quebec City
is
pic-
the streets are narrow and dark. Finally, in 1900, Attilio
came from Japan
to Vancouver,
which he defines
as a
"new town"
without other qualification. 26 From Vancouver he went to the Rockies
^^Varvaro Pojero, 1878, pp. 239-268.
25Dalla Valle di Pomaro, 1994, pp. 129-137.
2<^Pratesi,
1900, pp. 486-494.
— 44 —
in Itaiy:
Now
Then and
which he hked very much and he then crossed the
Prairies
on
his
way
to
Toronto, which he judged quite favourably.
In the twentieth century the
number of
Italian travellers to
Canada
doubled. Vatican delegates followed Bedini's line describing the develop-
ment of Catholic
Halifax,
Italian priests
Montreal and
clusters in big cities, in particular in
and exalting the love
for the
pope among the Canadian
were looking mainly for
Italian
faithful. ^7
immigrants, therefore they
sketched not only Montreal and Toronto, but also Winnipeg, Vancouver
and other urban centres of the West,
as well as the
mining towns on the
East Coast.-^ This massive production began with the essays written by
Pietro Pisani
and other
clerical travellers before the First
World War.-^
same ques-
In the early years of the century, lay travellers addressed the
tion.
oir
Sometimes, they considered only
by Carlo
De
Stefani, 1914).
Stefani for the
More
trade.ô
The
Accademia
immigration, as in the
mem-
dei Georgofili in Florence
(De
and commerCanada could help
often, they linked immigration flows
cial trends, stating that a
Italian
Italian
stronger Italian presence in
Bollettino
dell'emigrazione,
issued
by the
Italian
Ministry for Foreign Affairs, also published reports on Canada by Italian
diplomats in
this
country or in the United
States. ""
Because of the grow-
ing Italian migration, Italian newspapers sent reporters to Canada: in
1901, for example, the Corriere della Sera published a
series
on Canada
(from Montreal to the West) and Italian immigrants (E.F.B., 1901). Often,
and journalists were unclear and factually wrong:
Canada for a short time and they did not understand
reports by diplomats
their writers
were
in
local conditions. Therefore, today's readers
should not be surprised by con-
fused reporting like that by Giulia Bernocco-Fava Parvis, the Italian delegate
to
the
International
Women's Conference of Toronto of 1909
(Bernocco-Fava Parvis, 1910). After a short stay she wrote three
the journal
^^See the
La Donna
letters
in
articles for
which she mixed stereotypes about Canadian
by Monsignor Sante Tampieri and Cardinal Vincenzo Vannutelli
in occasion of the Eucharistie Conference of Montreal (1910): Archivio Segreto
Vaticano, 1911. See also a series of reportages for the Osservatore
the First
World War: Archivio Segreto Vaticano, 1920,
fols.
Romano
after
58-78; Archivio
Segreto Vaticano, Nunziatura del Canada.
28See Sanfilippo, 2003, chapt. VIII; Pizzorusso and Sanfilippo, 2005, part
III.
29pisani, 1909; Restaldi, 1910; Grivetti, 1911; Bonardelli, 1912; Rinaudol9l4.
30cf
Solimbergo, 1901, Rebecca, 1901; and Serio, 1989a.
^^Rossi, 1903; Viola, 1910a e 1910b; Attolico, 1913; Ehrfreund, 1914; and the
reports by
Girolamo Moroni, 1914-1915.
— 45 —
Matteo
landscapes (the
wonder of Niagara
Sanfilippo
about the
Falls), exaltation
Italian dis-
covery of Canada (Giovanni Caboto), and finally criticism of Toronto's
"puritanism" (where everything was closed on Sundays) and Quebec's con-
Her impressions of
servative Catholicism.
cities
present only the notion
that Quebec City is like a medieval European town and Montreal is pleasant because of its many beautiful churches (Protestant and Catholic).
When
she deals with Italian immigration she does not include data;
instead, she praises the Italian
serve
its
At
own
community
in
Toronto for
its
ability to pre-
language.
this point,
we could conclude
were mainly interested
in
Canadian
immigrants and that what they
grants was whether they were
really
still
that Italian travellers of that period
cities
because they hosted Italian
wanted
speaking
to
know about
Italian.
cern at the time about Italian emigration and
these
immi-
This was the main con-
we could
also
add that the
only analysis
of Italian communities by an insider was printed decades
the death of
its
travellers
more with
these
because their writings show us a more complex panorama.
They
writer.^-
tended to focus on
However, we should deal a
Italian emigrants,
Dogliotti) have a scientific
ty
after
but
background and
little
many of them
(Capellini
and
are fascinated by the moderni-
of Canada. They describe bridges and railways and they appreciate
Canadian
universities
and the
level
of scientific discussion in them. Others
went to Canada while engaged in a world tour (Besana and Cavalieri) and,
writing for the press, they compare that country to the United States. This
comparison
is still
no longer seen
unfavourable to Canadian
to be as
poor
as
cities
even though these are
they had been in the
first
half of the nine-
teenth century. Finally, the success of these travel narratives together with
the curiosity about Italian emigrants forced the Italian press to look for
more information on Canada:
journalists
were sent there (the enquiry by
the Corriere della Sera), while people crossing the ocean for other reasons
(mainly to attend conferences) were asked to write about their travels
(Giulia Bernocco-Fava Parvis). Often these writers are not very
good or
they do not have enough time to understand Canada, so they rely on previous travellers and travel writers, in
or the
same
By
many
cases repeating the
same
errors
banalities.
this point,
however, Italian readers had to acknowledge the exis-
tence of a Canadian specificity. In this perspective,
it is
also
important that
rich tourists visiting the United States (Varvaro Pojero) or diplomats work-
•^
Luigi Fedeli describes the
community of North Vancouver
graphical sketch, 2001.
— 46 —
in his autobio-
Images of Canadian Cities in
Italy:
Then and Now
ing in Washington (Dalla Valle di Pomaro) decided to tour
And
record their experiences.
immigrants
Italian
also
it is
American
in large
Italians,
United States but a
reality to
to
Toronto, Montreal,
cities travelled to
Canada
and Winnipeg. For
Canada and
important that priests trying to help
no longer
is
mere bad copy of the
a
be taken into account for
itself
Fascist travellers
The
Canada and
questionable attention to
communities
to Italian
in
came to power in 1922.
consuls reported on political attitudes of
Canada was shared by diplomats after Mussolini
Under
the Fascist regime, Italian
immigrants in
Italian
Principe, 2003).
cities
During the
both big and small (Bruti
also for Italian speakers to publicize Italian successes
speakers
about
Italian
^-^
rivers,
Fascist
Other
while
Fascist visitors
were
less
impressed by Canadian urban
Balbo was fascinated by Canadian
we
find only a positive
comment on
youth of Montreal, and nothing about urban
he had the opportunity to
Canada
as a rural society
journalists,
and some of these
immigrants, Canadian politics and the growth of Canadian
institutions. Italo
and
Canada asked
a description of their tour. Luigi Villari, for example, wrote
left
universities.
1984;
Liberati,
Fascist period, Italian consuls in
visit
several
was shared
Canadian
at this
but the former's writings were
Errera, 1934), while the
latter
forests,
mountains
the harbour
and the
realities,
even though
cities. ^'^
The
idea of
time by geographers and by
less original (Michieli,
wrote interesting books. In the
1935;
summer of
1924, Arnaldo Cipolla travelled through the United States and Canada,^5
portraying the country as uninhabited because of
ter's
cold, but lauding the beauty of
even that of their urban settlements.
its
Quebec and
He
disliked
vastness
British
Quebec City but found
Montreal "pleasant", and he appreciated Ottawa, even
conjured a somewhat sleepy
Italian criticism
matized the
city.
and the win-
Columbia, and
if his
description
Moreover, he repeated the standard
about the reactionary Catholic clergy in Quebec and
clerical
regime
as
stig-
something worse than the Spanish
Inquisition!
^^Bruti Liberati, 1984, pp. 76-78 and 99;
^"^Balbo, 1934, pp. 211-235.
1934.
2004,
It is
now
80'),
possible to
On
1934 and 1935.
his transatlantic flight, see Delia
buy the
or to see Quilici,
Villari,
DVD
with newsreels of his
1984 on the web
site
Campana,
travel (Tiberi,
of the Istituto Luce
(http://ricerca.archivioluce.com/).
^^CipoUa, 1928.
1989.
On
this
book and on Gian Giacomo Napolitano,
— 47 —
see
Kuitunen,
Matteo
In August
1
924, mathematician Giuseppe Muzi visited Toronto for an
and wrote
International conference
He
(Muzi, 1925).
pares
Sanfilippo
a long report for
American (downtown skyscrapers) and
its
the private houses, along the streets)
traits.
graphic and cultural importance of
its
saw Niagara
stay only in Toronto: he
by
train
on
British (the "cottages",
Moreover, he
Italian
Falls
hydro-electric plants so he visited also the
later travelled
Nuova Antologia
admires the urban development of Toronto and com-
recalls the
i.e.
demo-
community. Muzi did not
(where he was fascinated by
Queenston power
a trans-Canada tour that led
him
station)
and
to Cobalt
and
Sudbury, because of the mines, and to Timmins, where he visited the
Italian
workers. After four days in Northern Ontario,
Manitoba and
visited
Winnipeg, where he went
to
he arrived in
admire the Grain
Exchange. From there on the pattern was: travel by train and stop
town. In
this
manner he
visited
in a
Saskatoon (because of the university) and
Regina in Saskatchewan; Edmonton, Calgary, Jasper and Banff in Alberta
before crossing the Rockies;
and then Vancouver and Victoria
Columbia. At the beginning of September, he was back
only for a few hours before he embarked on a ship to Europe.
back, he saw
just a
Quebec
City, "the old poetic capital
few weeks Muzi saw more than other
a very
On
the
way
of French Canada". In
travellers
and he
also revealed
good disposition toward Canada. He praised natural landscapes
(Labrador, the St Lawrence, the Great Lakes, the Rockies, the
but he was also interested in mines, power plants,
he did not despise Canadian
In 1931,
tion with a
Amy
trains,
and
book dealing with
Italians in the
Canada she declared
more immigrants and
West Coast),
bridges,
and
cities.
Bernardy ended her cycle of works on
In a few pages about
accept
in British
in Montreal, but
Italian
emigra-
Americas (Tirabassi, 2005).
that this beautiful country could
describes the wealthy
West and the towns
that
host Italian communities: Montreal, Toronto, Winnipeg, and Vancouver. 36
Later,
Bernardy wrote a small booklet about Canada, but only to praise
its
Catholic tradition (Bernardy, 1939).
Canada between November 1931
a train journey from Toronto to Vancouver. In his book
he devoted considerable attention to Italian immigrants and Canadian
landscapes (Niagara Falls, the Rocky Mountains), but he also described
Gian Gaspare Napolitano
and
visited
May 1932 on
cities:
Halifax, Toronto,
Winnipeg, Calgary, and Vancouver (Napolitano,
1936). Napolitano seems to have had a wider perception of Canadian conditions. In
Winnipeg he studied the colonization of the West and described
^%ernardy, 1931, pp. 144-147.
— 48 —
in Italy:
Then and
Now
the Grain Exchange. In Vancouver he observed the harbour, but he also
sought information on bootlegging. In Halifax he
bureaucracy
customs, but
at
is
deceived by the sleepy
is
by the economy of the Maritimes
startled
which, according to him, should have been connected to Maine and not to
Canada.
He was
he opined,
He
Americanized.
like
by Quebec: true French Canadians,
also poorly impressed
resided
in
small
villages
while larger
same problem and Toronto,
finds that Ontario has the
Montreal, does not interest
him because
urban centres are
it is
only a typical American
town. Calgary, on the other hand, he finds appealing.
During
Italian
this period.
immigrants
just as
Catholic priests continued to pay attention to
they had done before the Great War. In 1931, for
example. Father Manlio Ciuffoletti wrote a long
parish of
Winnipeg and gave
Canada.'*'' Italian
this
country
as a
Roman
details
on other
letter
about the
Italian
communities
Italian
in
Catholic clergy in Canada tried also to consider
whole and not only
as a
stopover for Italian emigration.
In January 1935, archbishop Andrea Cassulo, apostolic delegate in
Ottawa
since 1927, started his apostolic visitation of the country in the dioceses of
Ontario.
He ended
in July visiting the diocese
time, he sent the Vatican an
of Edmonton; in the mean-
enormous number of reports. ^^ Not only did
he not forget to mention and to analyze the presence of any kind of immigrants (Italian, Polish, Ukrainian,
German, Hungarian,
Irish,
American,
French and Belgian from the East Coast to the Rockies; East European,
Chinese and Japanese
clash
in British
Columbia), but he focused
between French- and English-speaking Catholics.
on ethno-nationalism, but he was convinced
when something was
really
by
own
priests
from
their
wrong and
what he saw
on the
not keen
that parishioners protested
that Catholics
needed
to be
helped
group. Moreover, his desire to protect Catholic
immigrants was a consequence of his
lay in
also
He was
as the rise
of
political perspective.
"Communism"
in
His deepest
Canada.
how
fear
He wondered
of so many
British Columbia could resist against the arrival
Communists from Eastern Europe and he pondered the role of Catholics
fighting Communist propaganda. At the same time, he was aware of the
many nuances of left-wing political movements and he was able to explain
to the Vatican the difference between the Communists and the newborn
Commonwealth Federation. He also wrote about the
of Communism among immigrants in Montreal and at the same
Co-operative
strength
•^'
See his
letter,
dated Winnipeg January 28, 1931, in Francesconi, 1975, pp. 283-
285.
-'Archivio Segreto Vaticano, Sacra Congr. Concistoriale.
— 49 —
Matteo
Sanfilippo
time he complained that Quebec clergy was only interested in French
Canadian nationalism (and he
stressed the
dangerous influence of the
Action Française on the social understanding of Quebec
were not different from previous
Fascist travellers
desire to explain
but
Canada
we should not
to their fellow citizens
tinued also
to
travellers in their
to their
was authorized by
forget that every trip
any kind of triviality
crats. Fascist journalists tried to avoid
essence of Canada.
and
priests).
government,
bureau-
fascist
in grasping the
Sometimes they could not avoid stereotypes and con-
focus
on
emigrants
Italian
(Bernardi,
and
Cipolla,
Napolitano), but they also paid attention to the colonization of the West,
to
maritime trade in Vancouver, to the modernization of Montreal.
of every group of immigrants and
Italian priests analyzed the situation
tried to detect if there
was a Communist danger because of immigration.
At the same time, they were struck by the conservatism and the nationalism of Quebec
clergy. In this regard,
reports with those
by
it is
interesting to
Paolo
De Simone,
report
on Adrien Arcand and
Consul
Italian
in
"pro-fascist
Nation}''^
movement of
Both
Ottawa, and
National Social Chrétien
his Parti
Groulx was the true
"
in
Montreal. Petrucci wrote a lengthy
De Simone
defined as very dangerous and sponsored by Hitler.
that Lionel
compare Cassulo's
General Consul
L. Petrucci, Italian
leader, at least
on
which he
,
explained
of the
a cultural level,
Paul Bouchard, the founder of the daily La
stressed the Nazi-fascist influence
on Quebec right-wing
Catholicism.
Italian priests,
vatism of
Quebec
diplomats and journalists were surprised by the conser-
and Catholics, while they were no longer too
clergy
unfavourably impressed by the "Americanization" of Canada. In 19341935, Villari wrote about the geography and the economic background of
Canadian provinces,
rise
stressing the decrease
of the American one
(Villari,
positive evolution because
somewhat backward
British, while they
1934 and 1936). This he found
Canada was
position.
of the British influence and the
finally leaving
In fact.
thought that Fascist
its
to be a
previous
were vehemently
anti-
and Roosevelt's United
States
Fascists
Italy
behind
shared the same ideal of modernity in architecture as in economics. 'ô
After the Second World
When Napolitano
War
returned to
Canada
in the
1950s he visited Niagara
^ Ârchivio Centrale
dello Stato (Rome), 1934 and 1936.
^^Sanfìlippo and Pizzorusso, 2004, chapt. IV.
— 50 —
Falls
Then and
in Italy:
which he found melancholic*' In the meantime the
ellers
Now
taste
of
Italian trav-
evolved along similar lines and with increased curiosity for anything
new. Already in the 1920s and 1930s, Italian travellers were attracted
mainly by technological and architectural innovation
and harbours. "•- After the Second World War
Canadian towns
in
Italian travellers
were also
struck by Canadian consumerism.
After the war, the
first travel
were studying the new Canadian
order to secure
reality in
agreements (Ghilardi, 1989). At the same time other
came
a
to Canada.
two-month
where he
These included someone
visit in
who
were written by diplomats
narratives
like
new commercial
Italian bureaucrats
Francesco Piva who, during
1951 stayed in Quebec City, Montreal and Ottawa,
visited schools
and
he mentioned the
libraries. '^ In his report,
Catholic shade of Quebec's schools and the efficiency of universities and
social services in English
ple he
met on the
Canada, but he seems more attracted by the peo-
street or in stores.
He was
fascinated
drugstores (at the time, there was nothing like
commercial "essence" of Montreal, where
Friday.
them
stores are
He is critical of the linguistic skills and
by Quebec
in Italy)
open
until
City's
and by the
9:00 p.m. on
the taste in dressing of French
Canadians, but he appreciated their comunitarism.
He
underscored also that
British influence does not have
any grip on the French Canadian world,
which
religious orders. Finally,
Italian
is
dominated by Catholic
immigrants and
Italians are
states that,
not the best
he deals
also
with
according to his colleagues in Ottawa,
new Canadians
because they are too uneducated.
Moreover, in only ten years they tend to forget their mother tongue and
cease to be Italian while not merging perfectly into
Piva's criticism
of
Italian travellers.
of Italian immigrants
It is
is
already present in
Anna Moroni
ography from the beginning of the twentieth
of it
Canadian
society.
a standard issue in the writings
century^"*
in the autobiographical literature until the 1980s.^^
Parken's autobi-
and we find
traces
This literature will
^^ Napolitano, 1975,
pp. 227-233.
^^Harbours: Ferrante, 1989. Railways: Mazzoni, 1927. Mount Royal Hotel:
Piccinato,
1924-1925. Ontario Parliament Building: Morozzo Delia Rocca,
1928-1929.
^^Piva, 1954, pp. 3-100.
Moroni Parken, 1907. For
the fictional side of this autobiography, cf Principe,
1990.
^-'Albani [Randaccio], Sirio, 1958;
Mac Ran
[Randaccio], 1979; Torres Gentile,
1982; La Riccia, 1984; Raponi, 1988; Carli, 1996. For an introduction to
literature, see Rosoli,
1992.
— —
51
this
Matteo
not be analyzed here because
Sanfilippo
authors focus their attention on families
its
and workplaces while they do not mention urban settings, which they refer
to genetically as "American". Thus Giuseppe Pisani recounts his
"American" experience, but only once mentions that he was working in
Montreal
Italian
We
1989).
(Pisani,
The
not stay long in Canada.
Montreal
should also
common
immigrants are more
novelist Giose Rimanelli,
1950s before deciding to
in the
and dazzling, but he
city as large
stresses
settle in
who
New York,
all
Fascists,
the others were like children incapable of finding their
in
Canada.
for
many
A
priests stayed in
Giacomo
three times
Squilla,
and wrote
a
a
priest
book on
Squilla paid attention only to Italians
gle
when
describes the
community
and he
states that
way home.
dealing with their parishioners
Canada among
years, others returned to visit their
for example,
Canada
few parish
former
the immigrants
faithful. In the
perspective
)
is
into the trian-
and
is
also shared
by
Italian
more
(in
to other priests, in particular to the
above-mentioned missionaries among immigrants
Toronto,'^^'
to
his "paesani" in Ontario. Actually,
who had immigrated
common
1960s,
from Sora (Latium), went
Toronto-Niagara- Kingston (Squilla, 1969). This "parochial"
ways than one
did
lived in
explicit in his hatred for Italian
is
Montrealers who, in his view, generally were
Clerical writers were not as nasty
who
Canadian racism and the conser-
vatism, even with a Fascist streak, of the Italian-Canadian
(Rimanelli, 1958). In particular, he
"bad"
stress that references to
books written by people
in
in
Montreal and
diplomats (Germano, 1977).
Paolo Canali, Italian consul in Montreal from 1958 to 1966 reveals,
however, a different approach to the question. According to him, Italian
emigration
is
in
its
terminal stage, therefore Montreal
ghetto but the entrance door to Canada.
describes
it
as a beautiful
American
tastes the
He
likes
is
not an Italian
Montreal very
much and
and international metropolis, even though
style
of modern architecture
is
transforming
for his
many
neighbourhoods into anonymous and unpleasant suburbs. Canali's book
partly reportage
ers,
step
by
and
partly journal
step, differences
between Canada and Europe. Canali described
not only the province of Quebec,
Quebec
is
a
mix of
is
and we can appreciate how he discovbut also English Canada. In his pages
British values, Latin culture,
while
its
progressive liberation
freed
its
inner energy and
from
its
and American
daily
life,
the grip of the Catholic clergy has
inner qualities. English
Canada means
Ontario to Canali, but he had to admit, quite unwillingly, that he did not
like this province.
Toronto
is
too stern compared with lively Montreal,
êvangelisti, 1958; Sacchetti, 1984; Framarin, 1986.
— 52 —
while Ottawa
Ontario
dull
is
and
in Italy:
Now
Then and
unfinished. According to the Italian consul,
still
an industrial province with a few naturalistic (Niagara
is
Falls)
or
cultural (Stratford) sanctuaries, while the truly interesting parts of English
Canada
him
and the United
ness
and British Columbia. The latter province is
new country mid-way between the United Kingdom
are the Rockies
sketched by
as a
States.
mixing old
Canali
is
—
for the
i.e.,
Canadian
interest for
the 1960s
rivers
architecture. This blend
increasingly successful in
is
Italian
Lawrence and
visited
while Italian tourists travelled the
Falls,
St.
and the Rockies. In
the Great Lakes
vision broadcast a long
this period, Italian tele-
documentary on Canada, and
screened flashes about this country.
written by the famous author and wit
Canada.'^^
and falls—with twentieth-century
and 1970s. The Montreal World Exposition attracted
architects,"*^
Niagara
Canadian (tamed) wilder-
Italian appreciation for
mountains,
When he published an
Italian newsreels
The documentary's
Ennio Flaiano, who
screenplay was
in love
with
adapted version of his screenplay, he
stat-
fell
ed that he loved Canadian vastness and that he saw the country
ocean where tiny
islets are
population (Flaiano, 1980).
population
is
with Canada.
And
immigrants and he wrote
land
the multiple origin of this composite
why
exactly the second reason
He wanted
as a
peopled by a very small, but also very diverse
to
know about
Flaiano was so
enamoured
the natives, but also about the
on Italians in Toronto and Montreal.
Canada has been considered a good place for
Italian travellers: a multicultural society open to foreigners and a country
with fine winter landscapes, pleasant cities, and good cultural institutions.
Because of the growing number of Italian tourists, Italian publishers have
produced a number of guides on Canada, while the press regularly presents
a chapter
Since the late 1960s,
reports about
it.^''
Actually, the focus of both the guides
mainly on natural beauty, while
among
and the
press
is
the urban centers only Montreal
(and occasionally Toronto and Vancouver) are considered worth a longer
stay.
Not
surprisingly then, the beauty of a city
'^See the journal L'architettura.
The documentary was
for
Canada
^^Winter
is
Cronache
restored
remembered
sports: Pennati,
is
also linked to northern
e storia.
by Nicoletta
Serio, cf Serio, 1993. Flaiano's love
in Flaiano, 1976, p. 14
1.
1994a and 1994b. Nice towns: Mascardi, 1994 (on
Toronto). Nice towns, but great natural landscapes (in particular Niagara
and the Rockies):
Peretta,
1997. Guides: Canada. Guida del
turista;
Falls
Canada,
1993; Canada, 1997; Canada. Costa atlantica; Canada, 2002. Cultural institutions:
D'Andrea, 1985; Eco, 1983 (on the Robarts Library of Toronto).
— 53 —
Matteo
snow
realities, like
at
Sanfilippo
Christmas time (Brega, 1997), an idea also promot-
A
ed by guides commissioned by the Canadian government. "^^
ists
few novel-
joined in this promotion of tourism in Canada: Alessandro Baricco
wrote a short piece on winter, hockey and Canada (Baricco, 1994), while
Enrico Palandri went in search of Italian immigrants both in Montreal and
Toronto (Palandri, 1996).
No
Canada or Quebec as a setting for an Italian
Tondelli has done, and no one has written any travel book on the
other writer presented
novel, as
we could
country in the 1990s. Therefore,
say that Tondelli's novel
is
the
culminating point of the Italian literary appreciation of Canada and summarizes the Italian vision of the country. But Tondelli also provides a
twist to the Italian appreciation of
Canada. Because
this
thought to be somewhat different from the United
Canadian
searches for a
result
reality that
he discovers Quebec
American North America:
is
far
of Beltrami and Dupouy's old
a section
that
modern and not European, but
is
thesis that the
Toronto
not too
is
far
from
brand of American
New York.
USA)
(i.e.
many
English-Canadian
cities,
a con-
is
Canadian west
of the American frontier with the idea espoused by
a different
now
from the American one. As a
where people look toward Europe and not toward the west. This
flation
is
the writer
Canada, the essence of an un-
as the "real"
a place that
country
States,
new
is
just
visitors
cities are just
while only Quebec
is
real-
ly different.
Conclusion: the third millennium
The approach
to travelling in
Canada has not changed
in the
nium.
A recent press review featuring Toronto states that
where
a variety
this city has a
it is
a
new
millen-
modern
city
of immigrant groups coexist, but then the author adds that
long story and
lists
the
Conquest of Canada, the American
Revolution, the Flight of the Loyalists, the Hurons and the Iroquois, even
the
Mounted
of press
Police (Godetti, 2001).
articles
movies and film
as a
^
festivals.'''
good experiment, or
Guida del
There
is,
on Canada: on Calgary, on the
viaggiatore,
Sette/Corriere della Sera,
There
as a
is
good
also a
in fact, a
St.
growing number
Lawrence
laboratory,''-
and
as a place
•^
and on
where
it is
2000, but see also the ads by the same department in
25 November 1999.
51 "Stampede", 2004; Soria, 2001; Quirico, 2004; Matei, 2003;
face",
Valley,
growing trend to define Canada
"Canada double-
2003.
Gorlier,
1997 and 2003; and reports by Daniela Sanzone from Toronto, since
2002.
— 54 —
in Italy:
Then and
Now
possible to eat well, in particular in Montreal (Paolini, 2001).
Because of its journalistic dimension,
short and impressionistic.
al travel
writing
is
Canadian
it
is
possible not only to
now
is
On
Italian
watch documentaries about
number of programs about
also a
cities.
on Canada
should also take into account that tradition-
being replaced by television and the Internet.
television channels
Canada, but
We
travel writing
Italian
immigrants
in
In the late 1990s those immigrants were invited to meet
their relatives in special shows, ^^ while in the
new millennium we have
mini-series about poor emigrants leaving Italy
and crossing the ocean
Canadian winter
find themselves lost in the
The new medium does not
2004).
(Frazzi,
to
2001; Ciccoritti,
present the Canadian setting as
real,
but
rather as a sort of winter postcard.
In a
way this
in his novel
—
by web pages.
not very
is
a fairyland.
New
far
from what Quebec was
And
literature
this lack
of
reality
is
for Tondelli, at least
apparently reinforced
about travelling can be consulted on a web
site like http://turistipercaso.it/,
which posts autobiographical
between 2002 and 2005. They
are
go through them
is
describe their stay in Montreal (nice
their trips to
Quebec
Niagara
ated, while
Quebec City
park).
Other
must
Toronto and Niagara
compared
travellers prefer to start in
of
who
its
(a
cheap
is
appreci-
Italian
Toronto, considering that
modernity and
prefer to start in Montreal
Province of Quebec. In this
to
Gardaland
and nice guys) and
Toronto
theme
its
this city
is
a
immigrant population,
go west or north: a group even went to Yukon. But there are
to
those
to
city,
Falls.
considered a nice town, but not a European one.
for Italians because
and then
still
is
is
to
an account by two young
women who
City,
written
numerous and we do not have time
As an example, there
all.
tales
Quebec
City,
like
last case,
we
the "old castle"
and then
to visit only the
find again visitors
which
is,
in
fact,
who, coming
the Château
Frontenac, as the accompanying jpeg revealsl^^
Italians
seem
to be convinced that
Canadian
cities are fascinating
only
because of their modernity and they are unable to understand the difference
between a seventeenth-century building and a late-nineteenth-century one.
-'-În
particular Carramba, che sorpresa!, 1996-1998,
and Carramba, che fortuna,
1998-1999.
-^
http:
//www. turistipercaso.it/viaggi/itinerari/testo.asp?ID= 1362;
http://www.turistipercaso.it/viaggi/itinerari/testo.asp?ID = 2274;
http //www. turistiperc aso.it/via ggi/itinerari/ te sto. asp?ID = 4926;
:
http://www.turistipercaso.it/viaggi/itinerari/testo.asp.'' I D=7843.
Broudeoux,
2004 shows
a real castle.
that even
Canadians believe that Château Frontenac
— 55 —
is
Matteo
For them, North America
Sanfilippo
a gigantic
is
Disneyland, in which Canada figures
as a continental natural resort. Tourists,
have a clear grasp of Canadian
reality,
even
educated, do not seem to
if
while people coming to Canada for
some
business (diplomats, priests, journalists) are concerned only with
cific
and
question (mainly immigration, as
Quebec City
have analyzed the various versions of Tondelli's
I
have criticized his lack of geographical and historical knowledge and
tions,
that Italian travellers as a
group are no
better.
but they are not that many. Moreover, the writers
mainly interested
Italian
On
the Road, but
There
are excep-
listed in this
paper
the Canadian landscape. Therefore, they have few
in
intelligent things to say
about
trip to
attempt to read Quebec according to Kerouac's
must say
are
seen, but also trade).
I
his vain
I
we have
spe-
about the country's
and even when they
cities
talk
immigrants they resort to stereotypes and "idées reçues": the
poor emigrant of one century ago, the virtuous Canadian multiculturalism
of today. Should
might ever know?
we conclude that travellers are the dumbest people we
Or should we stress that travel literature is too often dis-
appointing? Finally, what about the contribution of travellers to the devel-
opment of a dynamic image of other countries? Our Italian travellers went
and have been going to the same places for more than two centuries!
Maybe we have to consider that travel narratives do not form an
unchanging
she
is
literary genre.
Any
traveller
is
writing about his
writing according to different canons: reports, even
diplomats
books by
(lay or clerical) are
journalists.
And
not the same as
trip,
if for print,
by
articles for the press or as
even in the large sector of travel narratives by
journalists or for the press,
we should probably
distinguish the
professional travellers (Besana, Cavalieri, Cipolla, Napolitano)
occasional pieces of those
but he or
who
work of
from the
crossed the ocean and were asked to write a
few pages on their experience. Moreover, we should take into account that
based on previous books and articles: travellers go
Canada with a number of expectations because of earlier travellers and
often knowing what they want to see because of drawings (in the ninetravel narratives are also
to
teenth century), and then of photographs, movies, television
taries or,
more
recently, pictures
presented by our travellers
seen before leaving
Italy.
is
on the web. The image of Canadian
cities
thus also the by-product of images they have
Consequently, an analysis of travel narratives must
concentrate on what happens before the
need for a book about
documen-
Italian travellers
Università della Tuscia
Viterbo, Italy
— 56
trip,
but
this realisation reveals the
and Canadian
cities.
Italy:
Then and
Now
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La Tuque (Canada)"
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