Untitled - Razza Reggiana
Transcript
Untitled - Razza Reggiana
Parmigiano Reggiano delle vacche rosse A rare, robust and remarkable cheese Photos courtesy of Associazione Nazionale Allevatori Bovini di Razza Reggiana breeds were introduced to the province. In 1950, there were 200,000 Vacche Rosse in Reggio Emilia; in 1988 there were 800. Why? Because the Reggiana produces less milk than other breeds. In addition, they have to be milked by hand — their udders are too sensitive for milking machines. And that makes their milk both labor intensive and expensive. In the 1990s a few breeders decided to reintroduce the idea of using red cow milk to make Parmigiano Reggiano and thus prevent the breed’s extinction. Today there are 3,000 Vacche Rosse in the area. They’re so prized that each red cow is registered in the Reggiana Breed Genealogic Book and there is an association of Vacche Rosse breeders, the Associazione Nazionale Allevatori Bovini di Razza Reggiana or AnaBoRaRe. Marco Prandi, president of AnaBoRaRe, has 100 red cows. In the 1930s, his grandfather won prizes for the quality of the Vacche Rosse he raised. Marco’s father changed direction, opting for new breeds that produced more milk and promised an easier life. But Marco has gone back to Vacche Rosse. He returned to raising the ancient breed because he CHEESE CONNOISSEUR c heese connoisseurs know the delights of Parmigiano Reggiano PDO (protected designation of origin). Italy’s culinary gift to the world is grated on pasta, added to soups, used to complete risotto and eaten on its own. Now it’s time to meet Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse — red cow Parmigiano Reggiano — an exalted, extraordinary and expensive cheese made from the milk of a breed of cows that nearly went extinct. All cheese starts with the milk and all milk starts with the animal. In the case of Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse, that animal is the Reggiana, the red cows — or Vacche Rosse — of Reggio Emilia. Red cows arrived in Italy some 1300 years ago with barbarian invaders, who are believed to have rustled the breed when they passed through Russia and Ukraine. The cows thrived and by the 13th century, when monks first made Parmigiano Reggiano, they were making it from the milk of Vacche Rosse. The red cow is the mother of Parmigiano Reggiano. It was the only breed in Reggio Emilia — and remained the only breed for centuries. It was not until the 1900s that other fall 11 BY ROY STEVENSON 47 thought it “important for the patrimony of Italy. It has allowed a specialized Parmigiano Reggiano to be made only from Vacche Rosse milk. In the ’90s, only about 200 to 300 wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse were made each year,” Prandi says. “Today the annual production is 11,000 wheels. Compare that to the total production of 3,000,000 wheels of Parmigiano Reggiano.” According to Prandi, the Vacche Rosse is an ecological breed. It eats only fresh and dried grass, which is among the requirements for attaining Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse PDO status. On the farm, there’s no need for tractors and other heavy equipment to maintain the pastures because the cows are tending to them, and that means less pollution. In addition the breed is very hardy, robust and resistant to many diseases so there’s little need for antibiotics. Although Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse is not certified CHEESE CONNOISSEUR fall 11 organic, it comes from cows that graze on natural pasture and are not treated with antibiotics or hormones. The cows produce milk for eight to 10 years, much longer than the area’s other breeds, which produce milk for three to five years. These numbers are averages, of course. Prandi had one cow that produced milk for 18 years! The cows give birth to one calf a year — about half are female, half male. An added benefit is that the boys, sold off for butchering, produce high-quality meat that’s prized in its own right. 48 what about the cheese? All Parmigiano Reggiano cheeses are still made the way monks made them centuries ago. They all start with raw milk obtained from the evening milking, which is partially skimmed, and added to the morning milk. The milk that goes into Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse comes only from the red cows. Their feed is regulated — they can eat only fresh grass in summer. This increases the nutritional value of the milk, adds distinctive favors and makes the color of the resulting cheese yellower than traditional Parmigiano Reggiano. In winter, the milk — and thus the cheese — is lighter in color because the cows are eating dried grass. No more than 10 percent of the cows’ winter feed can be grown outside the district and nothing they eat can contain genetically modified organisms (GMOs). Red cow milk contains more protein than milk from the breeds used to make traditional Parmigiano Reggiano. In addition Vacche Rosse milk contains a higher proportion of calcium, phosphorous, glutamate, amino acids and other micronutrients. Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse matures more slowly than traditional because the fat globules in the milk are bigger than those in milk from other breeds. This prevents the cheese from losing water as quickly. A 24-month Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse has the same water content as a 20-month traditional Parmigiano Reggiano. Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse gets its own specific stamp on the top and the bottom of the wheel. The stamp identifies when the cheese reached 24 months — the youngest age at which it can be sold — the producer and the farm where the cows were raised. Cheese that falls in the 26- to 30-month range is considered the best. At first blush, it tastes like standard Parmigiano Reggiano, but as its complex taste explodes across the palate, it becomes noticeably different. It has a rich aftertaste, leaving a more concentrated flavor than traditional Parmigiano Reggiano. Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse can be used wherever traditional is used but given its premium price, this is a cheese that should be enjoyed as an eating cheese. Treat it like a vintage red wine and let it sit for an hour before serving. The traditional serving method is to break flakes off the cheese with a wedge-shaped knife designed for this purpose. Then drizzle the cheese with a few drops of the finest aged Balsamico di Reggio Emilia or di Modena you can afford. Or drizzle it with a bit of Saba. Grape must reduction is aged to make balsamic vinegar; when the initial reduction undergoes a further reduction, it’s called Saba. Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse is delicious accompanied by artisanal breads, fruits and nuts — especially heirloom tomatoes, apples, pears, figs, walnuts and hazelnuts. Chutney is a less traditional but equally palate-pleasing accompaniment. And the cheese reaches ethereal heights when flaked atop thinly sliced beef carpaccio and drizzled with extra virgin olive oil. In the beverage area, it pairs especially well with high tannic Italian wines such as Chianti Classico Riserva, Sangiovese, Barolo, Brunello di Montalcino and Barbaresco. Parmigiano Reggiano delle Vacche Rosse is a special cheese and deserves a great wine, so don’t skimp on the bottle. CC