Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events

Transcript

Hotels Restaurants Cafés Nightlife Sightseeing Events Maps
Lviv
”In Your Pocket: A cheeky, wellwritten series of guidebooks.”
The New York Times
Spring 2011
The city of festivals
Spring events schedule
Out of Town
Trekking in Carpathian
National Park
№5
www.inyourpocket.com
9 772076 230506
From May 2011
Contents
What to see
3
Essential Lviv
Museums
33
36
E S S E N T I A L C I TY G U I D E S
Out of Town
Trekking in the Carpathian National Park
38
Contents
Underground Lviv
40
The Basics
5
Arriving, Money and more
Culture
Mail & Phones
Planes, trains & car rental
41
42
12
Shopping 44
Where to go shopping in Lviv
14
Lifestyle, Health & Sports
Lviv most exciting events in Spring
Where to stay
A fine selection of places to spent the night
Dining & Nightlife
Restaurants
Cafés
Nightlife
Bars, pubs and clubs
lviv.inyourpocket.com
Getting around
10
Galleries, cinemas, culture centres
Lviv Festivals
Get in touch with Lviv’s misterious side
Lifestyle directory
45
Business directory
19
26
29
46
Banks, Lawyers, Foreign representatives
Maps
Old town map
City map
47
48
Spring 2011
4
Foreword
Welcome to a city of unique old-world charm; the
scene of an accident where East broadsided West,
but left only a dent. With its remarkably preserved
Renaissance architecture, gently bending streets and
hidden ancient niches, Lviv is a Ukrainian city with a
European soul.
Known as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture,
the city boasts many of the country’s brightest and
best museums, art galleries and theatres. It is also
Ukraine’s Mecca - there are magnificent and inspiring
churches and cathedrals on just about every corner.
Although Lvivians have the reputation as churchgoers, they haven’t forgotten how to party. Pubs,
clubs, restaurants and coffee houses are plentiful,
and it’s usually a local who’s stoking the celebration
into the early morning hours.
Lviv has had an enthralling and violent history.
Founded by King Danylo of Galicia in honour of his
son Lev in 1256, the city has had many rulers including Poland, Sweden, the Austrian-Hungarian Empire,
Nazi Germany and the Soviet Union. The dubious
Hitler–Stalin Pact of 1939 granted control of Lviv to
the Soviet Union. This occupation spurred numerous
resistance movements in the 1940s and 50s including the much celebrated and controversial Ukrainian
Insurgent Army. With the fall of the Soviet Union in
1991, freedom was finally seized. Lviv continues to
be a shining example of independence, and Ukraine
owes much of its contemporary identity to the stream
of patriotism which emanates from this radical
western gem.
On April 17, 2007, Ukraine and Poland were chosen to
co-host the Euro 2012 football competition. As one of
Ukraine’s host cities, Lviv anxiously awaits the fanatical joyous surge expected to fill the city. However,
due to bureaucratic hurdles planners have made only
trivial progress on the necessary new stadium, road
reconstruction and airport expansion. It may take a
miracle to save the city’s chances to host. In Your
Pocket will continue to monitor the situation.
We are proud to offer this guide designed to highlight
the very best Lviv has to offer.
Publisher
Neolitas-KIS Ltd.
Nyzhnioyurkivs’ka 3, Suite 25
Kyiv 04080, Ukraine
tel./fax (+380) 44 467 78 20
[email protected]
Registration No. KB 14928-3900P
© Neolitas-KIS
Company Office & Accounts
PROMOVSKY
Heroiv UPA 73/10,
Lviv 79015, Ukraine
tel./fax: (+380) 32 239 30 80
Printed by Express Poligraph, Kyiv
Published 4 times per year
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Editorial
Editor & Writer Mike Voehringer
Research Yuliya Kanyuka
Layout & Design Natasha Martisova
Photos © Lviv In Your Pocket
Cover photo © Yuriy Diachyshyn
Sales & Circulation
General Manager Andriy Cherniavsky
Sales & Circulation Managers
Kyiv
Natasha Martisova, +380 67 977 44 16
Lviv
Yuliya Kanyuka, +380 67 672 44 97
Odesa
Liubov Rogatinska, +380 95 683 82 57
Maps
© DNVP Kartographia, 2011
© Lviv In Your Pocket, 2011
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright Neolitas-KIS
2003-2011. All rights reserved. No part
of this publication may be reproduced
in any form, except brief extracts for
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Editor’s note
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responsibility for changes and errors.
Arriving
By bus
All international buses arrive at Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal; however,
some buses, including routes from Warsaw and Krakow, may
make a first stop in centre not far from Shevchenka prosp.
Ask your driver to be sure. At the bus station, ticket offices
and schedules are located on the ground floor. Upstairs you’ll
find a waiting hall, a small hotel and a cafeteria. To find the
left-luggage office, head downstairs from the central hall.
Getting to town Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal is located relatively far
from the city centre. Taxis are your obvious quickest option;
depending on your haggling skills, fares are available for as
little as 40Hr. For an unbelievable value, take trolleybus No.
5 to Shota Rustaveli Street (I-4) for the meagre fare of 1Hr.
Though it may be cramped, marshrutkas No. 7, 37, 57 and
71 shuttle passengers to centre for 1.50Hr. Bus No. 18 connects Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal with Lviv Holovnyi Train Station.
Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal Stryis’ka 109, tel. (+380) 32
294 98 17. QOpen 24Hrs.
By car
When entering the country by car, foreigners are required to
sign a document at the border swearing that they will bring the
car out of the country before a certain date. Foreign cars are
allowed on Ukrainian soil for a maximum of two months. This
document should be carried along with your driver’s license
and your car’s registration papers at all times. Automobile
insurance is obligatory in Ukraine. It may be possible to buy
green card insurance valid for Ukraine in your home country to
avoid problems - if not you must purchase it from the Ukrainian
company at the border. The latter might cost less than the
former, however if you don’t speak Ukrainian or Russian it is
easy to get deceived by border officials and buy something
which is totally useless. The minimum term of insurance is
two weeks, with prices depending on the size of the engine.
By plane
When travellers refer to the Lviv International Airport it’s usually in the context of either a twisted joke or terrifying tale. We
found a sleepy port lacking in up-to-snuff conveniences, but
staffed by friendly Lvivians. The signature massive potholes
that once dotted the runway have been repaired, and as
the city gears up to host Euro 2012 the airport will surely
transform into something more familiar and welcoming.
Laid out in sectors 1-4, getting around the airport is quite
easy. Sectors 1 and 2 are located in the main terminal and
handle international arrivals and departures. You’ll also find
the main tourist information booth, an information desk,
customs, a VIP hall, telephones, lost and found, car rental
booths, first aid, 24 hour police services, waiting rooms,
news stands and a bank. The information booth was closed
on our visit, but the information desk located through the
door beneath the flight departure schedule was open and
staffed by a knowledgeable and friendly English speaking
local. Most domestic flights arrive at sectors 3 and 4 located
in the smaller terminal. As you exit the bus and enter the
terminal, wait for the luggage cart to pull up alongside and
retrieve your bags. If you happen to miss out on the cart,
proceed to the baggage room inside located adjacent the
Sixt car rental. A café and airline ticketing and information
booths can also be found in this terminal.
The toilet is definitely the airport’s most elusive feature (if
we had room in this guide we’d draw you a map). It’s actually
located across the parking lot from the main terminal. Look for
the little white brick building with a red roof next to the Satellite
Café. The attendant will ask if you need paper, just nod your
head yes and save it for later if you don’t need it right away.
Tourist Information
Tourist
information
centre
Tourist Information Cen-
tre C-3, Ploscha Rynok 1,
tel./fax (+380) 32 254
60 79, www.touristinfo.
lviv.ua, [email protected].
ua. Information centre provides information in English,
German, Italian, Check, Polish, Ukrainian and Russian.
Services: city information, guidebooks, travel maps,
magazines. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 18:00,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Lviv, Lvov, Lwów
Throughout its history, Lviv has had several names.
The city was known as Lwów when the Poles ruled, the
Austro-Hungarian Empire called it Lemberg and Jewish
residents referred to it as Lemberik. Currently, many languages have their own spelling and pronunciation. This
is the case with ‘Lviv’ (Ukrainian) and ‘Lvov’ (Russian).
As the city immerged to become the centre of Ukrainian language and culture in the 1990s, the Ukrainian
version became increasingly common and useful, i.e.
using ‘Lviv’ while searching the Internet will definitely
result in more hits.
 The Lviv
telephone code is +380 32 or (322)
Spring 2011
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6
arriving
EURO 2012 Lvivstyle
Getting to town Follow the heard of fellow travellers through
the terminal corridors to the waiting gauntlet of cabbies.
The 70Hr fare to centre is relatively cheap for Ukraine, but
the real bargain is by trolleybus 9 (1 Hr) or marshrutka 95
(1.5 Hr). It’s about 20 minutes by taxi and 40 by trolleybus/
marshrutka on one of Ukraine’s bumpiest roads.
Lviv International Airport Lubyns’ka 168, tel. (+380)
32 229 81 12, www.airport.lviv.ua. Lost & Found tel.
(+380) 32 229 83 19.
By train
The UEFA Executive Committee has reached its final
decision concerning host cities for the EURO 2012
football competition to be held in Ukraine and Poland.
After much speculation and anxiety, we are ecstatic to
report that Lviv along with Kyiv, Donetsk and Kharkiv
will host! The Polish contingent includes Warsaw,
Poznan, Wroclaw and Gdansk. The EURO 2012 Final is
scheduled to be played in Kyiv!
Although notable progress has been made in Lviv, there
is still a lot to be done before the city is ready to host.
The good news is that Lviv currently satisfies UEFA’s
expectations for hotel room quantity. The following is a
list of the not so optimistic news:
Lviv stadium model
The transportation situation - narrow streets crowded
with trams and marshrutkas (route) taxis - is not up to
snuff with European standards. The belt route doesn’t
even satisfy local need, let alone an influx of stadium
bound football fanatics. Computer generated photos
are all the city has to show for progress on the planned
airport renovation. But what is this? A ray of light has
pierced what was recently a dark cloud hanging over the
city’s chances to host. According to the mayor, construction on the stadium is proceeding on schedule and has
been given a nod of approval by UEFA.
It would appear that the maddening swirl of botched
plans, delayed projects and investor scandals is coming
to an end. And with Ukraine’s economy breaking out of
recession, Lviv should be able to pull off preparations
in time to host the hundreds of thousands of fans sure
to rock the city to its core.
With platforms wrapped in lofty steel awnings, run down trains
and suspicious glances, arriving to Lviv’s central rail station
can be like stepping into a Cold War era spy movie. Once
the nostalgia has worn off, exit the platforms by proceeding
down the stairs then follow the exit signs to the station’s halls.
A currency exchange (обмін валют), ticketing booths (каса) and
schedules are located in the main hall. There is also a floor plan
displayed of available services if you happen to get disoriented.
Purchase international tickets from booth No. 2. (Quiet please,
the street dogs huddled in the corner are trying to sleep.)
A restaurant (open 11:00 - 23:00), Express Bank with Western Union, telephones and resting hall (зал) No. 1 are located
in the left wing. Admission to hall No. 1 is 3Hr per hour and
the Internet can be accessed for 6Hr. A café and ATM are
also on site. Additional ATMs, a kiosk selling snacks and
beverages and a bar are located in the corridor connecting
the left wing to the main hall. The bulk of station’s services
are located in the right wing. Entering from the main hall you’ll
find a barber shop, an agency offering excursion services and
resting hall No. 2. This hall has two cafés, newspaper stands
and a pharmacy. Entrance is free of charge.
Proceed through the corridor past hall No. 2 for a currency
exchange and a news stand that sells maps of Lviv. There
are three left luggage (Камера зберігання) areas/lockers
available in the right wing. No. 1 is the largest and is the
only post that handles bags of all sizes. Depending on the
size of your bag, expect to pay from 5-20Hr per day. Police
services are also located in the right wing. Toilets are scattered throughout the building. The easiest to find are located
in the corridors leading to the platforms.
Getting to town Getting from the station to centre is
relatively easy. Taxis are abundant near the main exit. A
gauntlet of taxi drivers await at the exit of the main hall. A
trip to centre should cost around 30Hr and Lviv’s cabbies
are much friendlier and less scheming than those in other
major Ukrainian cities. The parking lot beyond the cabbies is
bustling with busses and mini-busses, most of which connect
to outlaying cities, towns and villages. Your best public transport option is tram No. 1, which heads directly to centre. The
same tram with a different name, No. 9, takes passengers
in the opposite direction from centre to the train station.
Lviv Holovnyi Train Station F-6, Dvirtseva pl. 1, tel.
(+380) 32 748 20 68.
Lviv renovated airport model
Lviv In Your Pocket
Basics
Basic data
Lviv
Population: 761 929
Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 88.1%, Russian 8.9%,
Polish 0.9%, Belarusian 0.4%, Jewish 0.3%, Armenian
0.1%, other 1.3%.
Ukraine
Population: 45 760 000 (1 March 2011).
Ethnic composition: Ukrainian 77.8%, Russian 17.3%,
Belarusian 0.6%, Moldovan 0.5%, Crimean Tatar 0.5%,
Bulgarian 0.4%, Hungarian 0.3%, Romanian 0.3%, Polish
0.3%, Jewish 0.2%, other 1.8%.
Territory: 603,700km2 (the second largest in Europe,
slightly smaller than Texas), mostly consisting of fertile
steppes (plains) and plateaus. The only mountain chains
are the Carpathians in the west and the Crimean Mountains in the extreme south.
Borders: Belarus 891km, coastline (Black and Azov
Seas) 2,782km, Hungary 103km, Moldova 939km,
Poland 526km, Romania (south) 169km, Romania (west)
362km, Russia 1,576km, Slovakia 97km.
Rivers: Dnipro (1,204km), Dnister, Donets, Buh,
Danube.
Highest point: Mount Hoverla 2,061m.
Local time: All of Ukraine is in the Eastern European Time
zone (GMT +2), along with its neighbouring countries
Belarus, Romania and Turkey. Thus, when it is 12:00 in
Kyiv, it is 13:00 in Moscow, 11:00 in Paris and Warsaw,
10:00 in London and 05:00 in New York.
Language
The country’s official language is Ukrainian. Since independence in 1991, it has become much more popular and
widespread. Still, Russian is heavily used in Crimea and
Eastern Ukraine, and only in western regions is Ukrainian
truly predominant.
The following is a list of some of the most common words
and phrases a person is likely to need.
Hello Вітаю (vi-TA-yu)
Goodbye До побачення (do po-BA-chennia)
Please Будь ласка (bud’ LAS-ka)
You’re welcome Прошу
(PRO-shu)
Thank you Дякую (DIA-kuyu)
Excuse me Вибачте (VY-bachte)
Yes Так (tak)
No Ні (ni)
Enjoy your meal Смачного (Smach-NO-ho)
Cheers! Будьмо (BUD’-mo)
I don’t understand Я не розумію (Ya ne rozu-MI-yu)
I don’t know Я не знаю (Ya ne ZNA-yu)
Help! Допоможіть (dopomo-ZHIT’)
Hospital Лікарня (li-KAR-nia)
Ambulance
Швидка
(shvyd-KA)
Where is…? Де знаходиться...?
(de zna-KHO-dytsia)
Right, left
Право, ліво
(PRA-vo, LI-vo)
Do you speak English?Ви розмовляєте англійською?
(Vy roz-mov-LYA-yete an-GLIY-s’koyu)
Alcohol
Ukrainian beer (pyvo) is quite tasty and extremely cheap
to boot. Tipsiness may set in early, though, as its alcohol
content is higher than Western brands. Those preferring
foreign brands can find their favourites at finer shops and
establishments. Ukraine also produces a wide selection of
vodka, which flows freely at many parties and gatherings.
Beware if offered homemade vodka (samohon). While good
samohon can be better than some bootleg labels in shops,
the overall odds are against you and your stomach. Whether
it’s Ukrainian vodka or moonshine, be ready to offer a toast at
some point. A modest ’cheers’ (bud’mo) will do for a foreigner.
Borders
Ukraine is bordered by Belarus, Hungary, Moldova, Poland,
Romania, Russia and Slovakia. Buses stop for about an hour
at borders; westbound trains for more than two, because
Ukrainian wheels don’t fit European tracks and thus have to
be switched! You should expect close inspection of your documents and belongings at border crossings. EU and American
travellers need a visa to enter Belarus, Moldova and Russia and
can’t be obtained at the border, so make sure you contact their
embassies in Odesa (see Directory/Foreign representatives).
Customs
If you are 18 years of age or over you can import, free of
customs duties and taxes, one litre of hard alcohol, two
litres of wine, 200 cigarettes or 50 cigars or 250 grams of
tobacco. Personal belongings are not subject to customs
duties or taxes, though a customs officer has the right to ask
you to make a written declaration in relation to them. (Avoid
bringing unessential, valuable, personal items! A colleague
of ours was told by a customs officer to declare her wedding
band. She declared the value of the ring, and - to make a long
story short - she ended up paying a $200 bribe in order to
avoid an outrageous duty.)
A person can bring in food products free of customs duties
and taxes if their total value does not exceed €50. However,
food products should not total more than two kilograms,
and there should not be more than one package of the
same product.
Goods with a total value of less than €200 may be brought in
free of customs duties and taxes. If the value of your goods
is greater than €200, but less than €1000 they will need to
be declared on a customs personal declaration form. If the
value of the goods is greater than €1000, the goods will be
subject to clearance in accordance with the import declaration requirements for imported cargo.
Cultural goods may be brought in if they are not subject to any
international alert and you have documents which prove your
right of ownership. To take such goods out of Ukraine you will
need to obtain relevant authorisation documents from the
State Service for Control Over the Passage of Cultural Values
Across the National Frontier of Ukraine (J-3, Smol’s’koho 10,
tel. (+380) 322 75 80 81/72 79 91.)
All customs declarations, filled out upon arrival to Ukraine,
must be kept throughout the period of your stay, and must
be handed over upon departure. This declaration can not
be renewed if lost.
Disabled travellers
Lviv is not what you would call a disabled-friendly city. High
curb drops and steep steps are the rule and public transport
system lacks even a hint of accessibility. The wheelchair
symbol used in this guide means that the establishment in
question specifically caters to disabled guests.
Spring 2011
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National holidays 2010
January 1 January 7 March 8 April 24 April 25 May 1-2 May 9 June 12 June 28 August 24 New Year
Orthodox Christmas
Women’s Day
Easter Sunday
Easter Monday
A day off for the workers
Victory Day
Trinity
Constitution Day
Independence Day
Safety
They say that Ukrainians can spot a foreigner from a kilometre away. This fact alone will not automatically make you
the target of crime. Lviv is, in fact, a rather safe place. As in
most cities, flashing large amounts of cash can cause trouble.
Wallets are known to disappear in public transport crowds,
so guard your pockets at all times. Being very drunk and/or
loud on the street is always a good way to attract unwanted
attention, especially from the police. By the way, it’s a good
idea for foreigners to carry at least a copy of their passport
and visa with them at all times.
Smoking
Electricity
Floors
You’re never too far away from a lit cigarette in Ukraine, and in
some bars and clubs the term second-hand smoke just doesn’t
seem to matter. Smokers enjoy a ridiculously cheap selection of
cigarettes hawked by one of the many babushkas and corner
kiosks that are located throughout the city. Just recently Ukraine
outlawed smoking in most public places and the workplace, except in specially designated areas. It is the responsibility of each
company to provide a designated area for all smoking patrons or
personnel. These special places can not exceed 50% of the total
allotted area of the business. Since this law is relatively new in
Ukraine, not every business has begun to enforce it.
Ukrainians consider the floor on the ground to be the first
floor and so one.
Toilets
Money
Public restrooms are a sore, dirty and not very aromatic
subject in Lviv. Make it a rule to go before you leave the
hotel and after each café/restaurant you visit and you
should be fine; pay toilets are in short supply in centre. If
you think you can just pop in to McDonalds and take care
of business, think again. You must first place an order then
open the bathroom door by punching in the code located
on the receipt. Good luck.
Ukraine supplies its residents and visitors alike with electrical current of 220 volts AC, 50Hz. All sockets require two
round pins, but not always of the same size. Many thinner
Russian sockets are being replaced by their European
cousins. Those with Russian sockets can buy a cheap
adapter for their European appliances. Adapters for more
foreign electrical societies are not easy to find in Lviv, so
bring your own.
The national currency is the hryvnia (Hr), which replaced the
transitional karbovanets on September 2, 1996. Don’t be
confused if your amount is given in roubles. You haven’t been
transported to Russia or taken back in time to the USSR - some
people just have trouble letting go of the past! Paper bills carry
denominations of 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200 and 500 hryvnias.
Another word to the wise: two versions exist of the 1, 2, 5,
10, 20, 50, 100 and 200 hryvnia bills, and both are accepted
everywhere. There are 100 kopecks in a hryvnia, with 1, 2, 5,
10, 25, 50 kopeck and 1Hr coins. You’ll have no problem finding
currency exchange points, but rates are better from central
street kiosks. If it’s traveller’s checks you need to cash, look
for a big respectable-looking bank. You can find a number of
ATMs around Lviv and many hotels and restaurants now take
Visa and MasterCard - American Express is not very popular.
There have been scattered reports of credit card fraud in
upscale restaurants, though, so you may want to think twice
before charging it.
Roads
Carry your license and registration at all times to fully enjoy
the Ukrainian driving experience. The official speed limits are
60 km/h in cities, 90 on secondary roads and 130 on highways. A zero tolerance drink driving policy applies in Ukraine.
Street smarts
Street вулиця (vul.) Square площа (pl.) Avenue проспект (prosp.) Boulevard бульвар (bul’v.) Bridge міст Embankment набережна (nab.) Highway шосе (shose)
Lane провулок (prov.)
Descent узвіз (uzviz) Lviv In Your Pocket
(VU-lytsia)
(PLO-scha)
(pro-SPEKT)
(bul’-VAR)
(mist)
(NA-berezhna)
(sho-SE)
(pro-VU-lok)
(uz-VIZ)
or Ж = ladies
or М or Ч = gentlemen
Tipping
Lviv tipping culture is developing slowly. While no general rule
exists yet, most restaurant-goers leave around 10% of their
bill. But your waitstaff will expect more from you as a foreigner!
Some places include a service charge of five to 10 per cent,
so read the fine print or ask.
Visas
Citizens of the EU, Switzerland, Liechtenstein, Andorra,
Vatican, Iceland, Monaco, Norway, San Marino, Georgia,
Mongolia, the U.S., Canada, Japan and the countries of the
Commonwealth of Independent States (CIS) - except Turkmenistan - can enter Ukraine visa-free and stay up to 90
days. Everyone else needs a visa, which must be obtained
from a Ukrainian embassy or consulate abroad before travelling. Visas can be processed in as little as one day, with prices
varying depending on the type and length of visa requested.
Many Ukrainian embassies only handle visa cases on certain
days of the week, so call ahead.
Travel to Russia is not so simple. All foreign visitors, with the
exception of citizens from selected countries of the CIS, must
obtain a visa. Upon arrival, you will need to fill in an immigration
card. If you are staying more that 72 hours, you will need to
register with the local police (hotels are usually willing to aid
in this process). Transit visas are also required. For additional
information, call (+380) 32 275 24 63.
Basics
Travel to Belarus is also a bit tricky. Citizens of the EU, Andorra, Iceland, Liechtenstein, Norway and Croatia can apply for
30-day single and multiple entry business and private visas
without an invitation. The rest of us need an invitation, or we
can book through a travel agency authorized to issue state
travel vouchers. All visitors are required to purchase national
medical insurance, and must register their passports with local police within three days of their arrival (hotels are usually
willing to aid in this process). Transit visas are also required.
For more information, call (+380) 322 37 27 30.
Moldova greatly relaxed its visa laws in 2007. Citizens of the
EU, Norway, Switzerland, Japan, Israel, Canada and the U.S.
can enter Moldova visa-free and stay up to 90 days. For all
other visitors, visas can be acquired at a Moldavian consulate
or at the Chisinau airport by presenting an application form
and photos. All visitors planning to stay more than 90 days
need an invitation and visa. For more information, call (+380)
44 280 77 21.
Citizens of the EU, Norway, Switzerland, Canada, the U.S.,
Japan, Australia, Israel and a handful of Latin American
countries can enter Romania visa-free and stay up to 90
days. Citizens of countries not on the list can obtain a visa
at the Romanian consulate in Kyiv. For more information, call
(+380) 44 234 00 40.
Poland, Hungary and Slovakia belong to the European
Schengen zone. Citizens of Canada, Mexico, the U.S., Israel,
Hong Kong, Japan, South Korea, Malaysia and Singapore may
enter without a visa; however, the amount of time you are allowed to stay varies from country to country. All others must
apply for a visa at the consulate of destination country. For
more information call the following consulates: Polish (+380)
322 97 08 61, Hungarian (+380) 322 64 58 22, Slovakian
consulate in Kyiv (+380) 44 234 06 06.
For a complete listing of consulates locations and phone
numbers in Lviv see Business directory/Foreign representations. In many cases, the consular section is responsible
for issuing visas and is located apart from the embassy
- save yourself time and confusion by calling before you go.
(Most of embassy located in Kyiv. For complete listing visit
kyiv.inyourpocket.com).
Working in Ukraine
For most of the past decade, many foreigners took advantage
of Ukraine’s relaxed regulations and didn’t bother getting
work permits or even visas. Times have definitely changed,
and stricter requirements and regulations have forced many
of us to play by the rules. Many companies continue to pay
in cash under the table, but will offer assistance obtaining
extended visas. If you’re planning to work in Ukraine for
a long or indefinite period, it may be beneficial to obtain
either permanent or temporary residency. For permanent
residency you must be sponsored by a relative with Ukrainian
citizenship or prove Ukrainian heritage - this can be done by
providing the Office of Passport Registration and Immigration
(VVIR) with the birth certificate of a parent or grandparent
born in Ukraine and documents proving relation, i.e. your
birth certificate, parent’s birth certificate, marriage licence
showing change of name, etc. Though often complicated
and time consuming, local and multinational companies
can procure temporary residency for foreign personnel. No
matter what category you fall into, plan on big hassles and
a lot of time spent at VVIR, the Housing Bureau (ZhEK) and
the police station.
Ukraine’s political framework
To understand Ukrainian politics, imagine a carnival complete with clowns, freaks and a main attraction where magicians make billions of hryvnias disappear from taxpayers’
pockets. That said, let’s get down to the nitty-gritty. Ukraine
is a republic consisting of 24 provinces (oblasts) and the
Autonomous Republic of Crimea. The federal government
consists of executive, legislative and judicial branches.
Executive branch
The President is elected by popular vote for a five-year
term and is eligible for a second term. The President is
responsible for issuing decrees and orders, and preventing “any actions of the legislative, executive and judicial
branches of power that directly or indirectly infringe upon
interpretation of the fundamental Law of Ukraine.” In other
words, the President’s job is to ensure that nothing is ever
accomplished.
Viktor Yanukovych, front man for the Party of Regions, was
inaugurated in February 2010 following a closely contested
election in which he beat out rival Yulia Tymoshenko by just
3.5% of the vote. Many political insiders have been quick
to note the uncanny similarities between Yanukovych and
former US President George W. Bush: neither is able to
sting together a proper sentence and both will go down
in history as the face and definitely not the brain of their
respective administrations.
Legislative branch
The unicameral supreme council, known as Verkhovna
Rada, consists of 450 deputies and is presided over by a
Speaker. Elections were last held in 2007, and five parties
passed the required vote threshold of 3%. The current
make up of this bitterly feuding, fund sucking, time wasting branch is as follows: the Party of Regions (172 seats),
President Yanukovych’s party, is extremely popular in
Ukraine’s industrial, Russian-speaking, eastern oblasts;
Yulia Tymoshenko Bloc (152 seats) is led by the former
Prime Minister known for her trademark blond peasant
braids; Our Ukraine/People’s Self Defence (72 seats) is
led by former President Viktor Yushchenko and maintains
a base among voters in the west; the Communist Party
of Ukraine (27 seats) has been steadily losing support
since the fall of communism; Lytvyn Bloc (20 seats) is led
by current Speaker Vladimir Lytvyn, a man with gorgeous
silver hair; and seven independent deputies.
In March, a new majority coalition led by the Party of
Regions swooped into Verkhovna Rada and consolidated
power by appointing Mykola Azarov, a long-time ally of
President Yanukovych, to the position of Prime Minister.
The new coalition consists of the Party of Regions, the
Communists, Lytvyn Bloc and mercenaries from Our
Ukraine/People’s Self Defence and Yulia Tymoshenko Bloc.
The formation of this new coalition was made possible only
via the passing of a controversial amendment (basically
unconstitutional) which allows individual deputies to join
coalitions without party consent. Welcome to Ukraine,
where laws are made to be broken.
Judicial branch
The legal system, based on civil law with judicial review of
legislative acts, is topped by the Supreme Court and the
Constitutional Court. We thought of adding a joke here,
but realised that everything that happens in these halls of
“justice” is far too disturbing to make light of.
Spring 2011
9
10
Culture
Art galleries
Art-11 C-3, pl. Rynok 37, tel. (+380) 32 274 03 67.
QOpen 12:00 - 20:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free.
Chaos C-4, Rus‘ka 12, tel. (+380) 67 670 03 87.
QOpen 11:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. Admission is free.
Dzyga C-3, Virmens‘ka 35, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 12.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. Admission is free.
Gallery of Ukrainain Military Uniform C-3, pl. Rynok
40, tel. (+380) 32 297 51 93. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00.
Opera & Ballet
Closed Mon. Admission is free.
Gerdan C-4, Rus‘ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 235 70 46. QOpen 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon, Sun. Admission is free.
Lviv Art Gallery A-5, Stefanyka 3, tel. (+380) 32 272
39 48/(+380) 32 261 41 60. QOpen 11:00 - 17:00,
Sun 12:00 - 16:00. Admission 10Hr, children 2Hr. Friday is
free for students.
Lviv Palace fo Arts A-5, Kopernyka 17, tel. (+380) 32
272 89 33. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission is free.
Pory roku (Seasons) C-3, Virmens‘ka 23, tel. (+380)
32 235 44 65. QOpen 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Admission is free.
Cinemas
Kinopalace B-3, Teatral‘na 22, tel. (+380) 32 297 50
50/(+380) 32 297 50 05. Q Tickets 10-24Hr.
Kinopalace Kopernyk B-5, Kopernyka 9, tel. (+380)
32 240 37 69.
Kyiv C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 8, tel. (+380) 322 72 67
73. Q Tickets 10Hr.
Lviv I-5, Samchuka 12, tel. (+380) 32 270 44 80.
Culture centres
British Council H-3, Universytets‘ka 1, Lviv National
University, tel. (+380) 322 39 45 52. QOpen , Mon, Thu
14:30 - 17:30, Tue, Fri 12:00 - 15:00, Wed 16:00 - 19:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Goethe-Institute H-3, Universytets‘ka 1, Lviv National
University, tel. (+380) 322 39 47 67.
Lviv State Palace I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 2, tel. (+380)
32 275 32 47. QOpen 17:00 - 20:00.
Theatres
First Ukrainian Theatre for Children and Youth
A-4, Akademika Gnatiuka 11, tel. (+380) 32 272 68
41/(+380) 32 272 68 55. QOpen Thu - Sun.
Les Kurbas Lviv Academic Theatre A-3, Lesia Kurbasa 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 49 14/(+380) 32 272 48
24. Q Tickets 20-30Hr.
Lviv Regional Dall Theatre C-2, Danyla Halyts‘koho
pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 235 58 32.
Maria Zankovetska National Academic Ukrainian
Drama Theatre B-2, Lesi Ukrainky 1, tel. (+380) 32
272 05 83/(+380) 32 272 07 51, www.zankovetska.
com.ua. QOpen Thu - Sun. Ticket price starts at 7Hr.
Voskresinnya Theatre H-2, Henerala Hryhorenka pl.
5, tel. (+380) 32 274 13 00. QOpen Fri - Sun. Tickets
10-30Hr.
Lviv In Your Pocket
Solomea Kruszelnicka Opera and Ballet Theatre A-3, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380) 32 242 17
90/242 11 63, www.opera.lviv.ua. Many European
theatres can boast an extraordinary construction history, but Lviv‘s opera house is unique in that it is built
on top of a river. The Poltva River flows beneath the
stage and continues through centre deep beneath the
asphalt (no doubt a contributor to the many sinkholes
that tend to startle foreign visitors). By the end of the
19th century Lviv was a bourgeoning city eager for a
European-class theatre. The project was put up for
tender and many top European architects tossed in
their bids. It was Polish architect Zygmunt Gorgolewski
- designer of Kaiser Wilhelm Bridge in Berlin, the Gemäldegalerie in Dresden and the Vienna State Opera - who
proposed the radical and intriguing idea of burying the
small river beneath the opera. His plans also included
the use of a concrete foundation, a first for Europe. With
optimistic trepidation, the city planners agreed and
the Opera House was completed in 1900. The building
began to sink right away, but settled in the decades
that followed. It is believed that knowledge of this flaw
led to Gorgolewski‘s depression, legendary suicide attempt and eventual death of heart disease. The official
opening performances included a ballet, opera-drama
and a comedy. The most fitting of the three was the
opera entitled “Janek”. Written by Władysław Żeleński,
it detailed the lives of Carpathian mountain-dwellers.
The contemporary professionals that call the Opera
House home include a 90-piece symphonic orchestra,
more than 40 world-class opera soloists, a choir and
a ballet troupe. The structure‘s stunning main façade
is widely recognized and appears on the city‘s emblem
and is also displayed on the 20Hr note. Matinees usually begin at 11:00 and eveing performances at 18:00.
QOpen Wed - Sun. Tickets 25-125Hr.
Culture
calls
Culture & Events
Spring 2011
11
12
Lviv Festivals
Easter in Lviv
24-30 April 2011.
Easter is a family holiday
in Ukraine and Lviv is one
of the best places to feel
this atmosphere. It is here
that the family spirit is
present in each temple, on
every square, and in each
street where traditional Easter folklore celebrations, fairs, concerts and theatre performances take place. World renowned
Ukrainian Easter eggs, embroidery, ceramics, decorations,
and woodcarvings attract guests from the Easter Markets.
During the Easter celebrations, the annual ethnographic
festival “A Great Gayivka (ritual round dances and games)” is
held. A few weeks before its start there are master-classes in
the painting of Ester eggs – the main symbol of the holiday.
Lvivites and visitors of the city can learn Ukrainian spring
traditions and take part in the Easter celebration.
Open Air Museum of Folk Architecture and Rural
Life K-3, Chernecha Hora 1, www.cultureandtourism.
lviv.ua.
Lviv City Day
Parade-Carnival
8-10 May 2011
“Where else can you feel as fine as here?” Annually this question gets the same answer: “Only in Lviv”, at the time of the
City Day celebrations. It is a holiday of great entertainment
traditions: impressive street theatre performances, concerts
and festivals. Holiday events include performances of jazz,
world music, rock and pop, dance, comedy, film premières and
award ceremonies to fit any taste. In 2011, guests will have
the opportunity to enjoy thousands of participants of the Great
Street Parade-Carnival. Among them: children amateur groups,
armoured knights, walking on stilts actors, carriages with angels. There is a city sightseeing car-train called “The Miracle
Train” bringing disable children to the holiday. Also included
are members of youth and sport organisations, folk dance
ensembles, and representatives of national minorities and
public organisations... All the parade is singing, dancing, and
performing. Everyone is welcome to participate! This colourful
festive action unites the citizens of Lviv and guests every year.
Central part of the city www.cultureandtourism.
lviv.ua.
Flugery Lvova
Weather-Vanes of Lviv
The 9th International
Jazz Festival
30 April – 2 May 2011.
The 9th Ethno-jazz festival
“Flugery Lvova” is the most
exquisite and extraordinary
event in the city. As usual the
event will be happening in the
very heart of Lviv in the City
Hall Courtyard.
Year after year, it expands, and the amount of its participants
– ethno and jazz bands – grows. Also there are different media
and literary projects within the festival. A morning concert of
the famous rock-band from Lviv “Mertvyi Piven’” has already
become a tradition of the festival.
For three days, the Festival welcomes world-class musicians in
Lviv, presenting international stars and fresh new talents from
Ukraine’s own burgeoning scene. Every year, this free event
enables a great number of people to enjoy an outstanding
selection of jazz music and have a good time in great company.
City Hall Courtyard С-4, Rynok pl., www.dzyga.
com.ua.
Lviv In Your Pocket
Lviv Festivals
Virtuosi
Ancient Lviv
The 30th International Musical Festival
Medieval Culture Festival
13 May - 5 June 2011
The “Virtuosi” (“Virtuosos”) festival is a popular three-week
summer season of daily classical music concerts. The event
was founded in 1882, and now each season consists of
over 30 concerts of well-known musicians and orchestras.
It is a period when many musical stars, and winners of
prestigious international contests, gather in Lviv to perform!
The “Virtuosi” festival time in Lviv is paradise for opera and
classical music lovers!
Lviv Regional Philharmonic Society Concert Hall
B-5, Chaikovskoho 7, www.philharmonia.lviv.ua.
28-29 May 2011
Imagine a totally electrifying, full day out in a medieval city.
“Ancient Lviv” festival invites you to meet the old-time heroes,
beautiful damsels and brave knights, court jesters and a city
executioner directly in the medieval Lviv streets. Come and
you will have the opportunity to try archery, buy old shape
smith and pottery goods, and listen to medieval music. Go
deep into the history of one of the oldest cities of Ukraine!
The main event of the festival is the knights’ tournament, a
colourful show which has gained its second revival. Tournament participants are the representatives of numerous
historical reconstruction clubs from the different countries
of the world. Various bands playing music of the Middle Ages
will perform during the festival.
Pototsky Palace A-5, Kopernyka 15, www.lviv-old.org.
ua. QTickets 15-30 hrn.
Spring 2011
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14
Where to stay
Cream of the crop
Citadel Inn H-4, Hrabovs’koho 11, tel. (+380) 32 295
77 77, fax (+380) 32 295 90 00, [email protected], www.citadel-inn.com/en. Located near
centre, Citadel is actually a 19th century fortress. Encased
in such a unique old-world atmosphere, it’s easy to shrug off
contemporary problems and just relax. Staff is very courteous and adept at serving foreign clients. Twenty-six elegant,
ultra-comfortable rooms are available and come standard
with air-conditioning, cable TV, safe, mini-bar, bathrobes, slippers, hair-dryer, telephone and Internet access. The romantic
Garmata Restaurant serves succulent European and Ukrainian cuisine. Guests are also welcome to enjoy the sauna, gym
and conference and banquet rooms. Q26 rooms (standards
1190 - 1400Hr, suites 1590 - 1800Hr, suite 3390Hr, extra
bed 400Hr). POHARUFLGKDW hhhh
Grand Hotel B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 322 72
40 42, fax (+380) 322 76 90 60, reservation@ghgroup.
com.ua, www.ghgroup.com.ua. Grand is extremely adept at
meeting the needs of western travellers. Located on Lviv’s main
thoroughfare, the hotel was completely renovated in the late 90’s
and has an elegant appeal. Rooms come with classic interiors,
modern amenities and views of either the quiet courtyard or of
bustling Svobody prosp. The breakfast buffet served in Grand’s
renowned restaurant is included in the room charge, as is a membership to an upscale fitness centre that features a swimming
pool, Jacuzzi, sauna, massage service, solarium, aerobics hall
and gym. Disco Bar Platinum and Grand Club Casino offer intriguing entertainment opportunities. The professional staff is fluent in
English making for a no-hassle experience. Q61 rooms (singles
€76, doubles €99, junior suites €132, suites €160, apartment
€207, extra bed €30). PHARFLGKDW hhhh
Leopolis B-3, Teatral’na 16, tel. (+380) 32 295 95 00, fax
(+380) 32 295 95 99, [email protected],
www.leopolishotel.com. Located in a newly renovated 18th
century structure just steps from historic Rynok pl., Leopolis is a
nose ahead when it comes to class. The attention to detail here
is impressive. All rooms are unique, stylishly designed and come
with classy touches such as heated tile floors, anti-allergenic features, stereo systems that weave throughout the rooms (there
are even speakers in the shower), high-speed wireless Internet,
soundproof triple-pane windows, etc., etc. A complimentary
buffet breakfast is served in one of the two elegant restaurants
and the bar nestled in the cellar is a popular after work hang-out
for business travellers. The hotel is currently expanding into the
adjacent building. Scheduled for completion in 2010, this new
wing will bring the room total to 90 and will include a spa centre
and three conference rooms. Q43 rooms (20 superiors €195
- 215, 19 junior suites €215 - 235, 3 suites €350, 1 apartment
€450, extra bed €30). PHR6ULGKW hhhhh
Opera A-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. (+380) 32 225 90
00/(+380) 50 431 95 99, fax (+380) 32 225 90 01,
[email protected], www.hotel-opera.lviv.ua.
Opera is perfect for both business trips and romantic getaways.
Located at the start of Svobody prosp., the 47 newly remodelled rooms come equipped with air-conditioning, telephone,
filtered tap water, refrigerator with mini-bar and satellite TV.
Many rooms have spectacular views of the Opera House and
the ancient cityscape that lies beyond. The restaurant on the
ground floor serves a complimentary breakfast, and for lunch
and dinner head to the exclusive Panorama restaurant on the
seventh floor. The exquisite menu and popular summer terrace
make this one of the most intriguing and definitely the most
romantic venues in the city. Excellent conference facilities are
available. Q51 rooms (8 singles 850 - 1200Hr, 33 doubles
1120 - 1320Hr, 5 junior suites 1540Hr, 5 suites 2380Hr, extra
bed 300Hr). PHAR6ULKW hhhh
Lviv In Your Pocket
Symbol key
P Air-conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
O Casino
H Conference facilities
T Child friendly
U Facilities for the disabled
R Internet
L Guarded parking
F Fitness centre
G Non-smoking rooms
K Restaurant
M Nearest metro station
D Sauna
C Swimming pool
6 Animal friendly
W Wi-Fi internet access
Upmarket
Chopin B-5, Malaniuka pl. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 10 20,
fax (+380) 32 261 10 21, [email protected],
www.chopinhotel.com.ua/en. While the outside is definitely
a classical Polish/Livivan style, once inside, one can imagine
oneself inside a modern hotel in any major European City.
Chopin Hotel is located in a quaint plaza near the City Hall, the
Lviv regional philharmonic society, and a short walk from the
Pototsky Palace and the Lviv Art Gallery. We found the staff
very friendly and happily, English speaking. Guests may enjoy
Polish and European specialties in the stylish Chopin restaurant
with a summer terrace. We stopped by at breakfast time and
the buffet made our mouth water. We were told in the evening
there is live piano music. The atmosphere was so comfortable,
I almost wanted to wait. All 16 rooms are air-conditioned and
decorated in a romantic style. They are fitted with both Wi-Fi
and cable internet, Cable TV, a mini bar and a safe. Many additional services are available. Q16 rooms (4 singles 600 - 700L,
3 doubles 800L, 5 suites 1200L, 2 apartments 1500 - 1800L,
2 junior suite 1000L). hhh
Dnister G-3, Mateika 6, tel. (+380) 32 297 43 17/(+380)
32 297 43 05, fax (+380) 32 297 10 21, bron@dnister.
lviv.ua, www.dnister.lviv.ua. Set half way up St. George hill
overlooking picturesque Ivan Franko Park, Dnister offers the
absolute best views of Lviv. With 150 rooms it is also one of
the largest hotels in the city. Value for hryvnia doesn’t actually
kick in room-wise until superior and lux (definitely worth splurging for); standard rooms are reminiscent of what can be found
in a stateside motel. Built in 1983, the hotel was completely
remodelled in 1999 and has since garnered the reputation as
one of Lviv’s premier business and conference centres. Seven
conference halls are available with the largest accommodating
up to 200 participants. They also offer group discounts: the
larger the group the bigger the discount. Staff is courteous,
professional and English speaking. Wi-Fi is available throughout the hotel. The restaurant is elegantly arranged and offers
scrumptious European cuisine. The hotel’s gem is the Panorama Bar located on the ninth floor. From the bars telescope
it’s possible to get a close up peep of Old Town or eaves drop
on hikers mulling about Vysokyi Zamok Mount. Q118 rooms
(15 economy €46, 50 standards €55, 20 superiors €77, 26
businesses €86, 7 suites €136). hhhh
Door smarts
A quick yet indispensable guide to those embarrassing
moments in front of a foreign door.
Pull
На себе
Push
Від себе
Open
Відчинено
Closed
Зачинено
Where to stay
Spring 2011
15
Where to stay
16
Eney K-4, Shymzeriv 2, tel./fax (+380) 322 76 87 99,
[email protected], www.eney.lviv.ua. This quaint hotel is
located in a tranquil niche next to a botanical garden a short
cab ride from centre. Rooms are decked with stylishly modern
décor and come standard with air-conditioning, satellite TV,
Internet, bathrobe, toiletries, safe and mini-bar. Relaxation
and entertainment options include a dry sauna, billiards and
a small outdoor pool (open throughout the summer months).
Breakfast is included in the room rate and is served at the
hotel’s restaurant, which features Ukrainian, European and
Japanese cuisine. Reception staff is extremely professional,
courteous and multi-lingual. Q15 rooms (5 singles 60 80Hr, 5 doubles 80 - 100Hr, 2 triples 121Hr, 2 suites 131Hr,
1 apartments 172Hr). PHARLGKXCW hhh
Eurohotel J-4, Tershakivtsiv 6A, tel. (+380) 32 242 40 02,
fax (+380) 32 275 72 24, [email protected], www.
eurohotel.lviv.ua. Located a brisk 15 minute walk from centre,
Euro Hotel has an elegantly remodelled interior and rooms. A
safe, mini bar, Internet access, satellite TV and air-conditioning
come standard in the rooms. The hotel also features a modern
business centre, a conference hall that accommodates up to
50 and interpreting services. Various package deals are also
available and come with extras such as guided city tours and
airport transfer. Reception speaks fluent English and is adept
at meeting the needs of foreign tourists. Located in the lobby,
the restaurant is currently metamorphosing from a gaudy sushi
joint to a more appropriate European restaurant. Q92 rooms (6
singles 510 - 570Hr, 30 standards 660 - 780Hr, 46 superiors 750
- 870Hr, 5 junior suites 900Hr, 4 suites 1300Hr, 2 apartments
1700Hr). POHARLGKW hhhh
Reikartz Dworzec F-3, Horodots’koho 107, tel. (+380)
32 235 08 88, [email protected], www.reikartz.
com. Located on the edge of downtown, this new kid on the
block brings competitive rates and western European standards
to Lviv. All rooms are stylish, comfortably furnished and come
with mini bar, safe, hairdryer, satellite TV, internet access and
telephone. The cosy lobby-bar and the Calvados Mediterranean
restaurant are fine additions. The staff is professional and eager
to make your stay a comfortable one. An expansion project
currently in the works, and will user in a conference and business centre and additional rooms. Children under 12 stay free.
Q52 rooms (8 singles 500Hr, 32 doubles 600Hr, 6 superiors
800Hr, 6 suites 1350Hr). PARLKDCW hhh
new
Reikartz Medievale C-3, Drukarska 9, tel. (+380) 32
235 08 90, [email protected], en.reikartz.com/
lvov.html. This hotel is situated in the very centre of historic
Lviv, close to Rynok Square. It was opened in December, 2010
and presently has 23 rooms decorated in European style, or
more accurately Belgian style; modern and simple. One gets
the feeling that everything here works smoothly and efficiently.
There is presently a very relaxing lobby bar. There is a second
phase expansion underway which will include a large restaurant,
conference rooms and nearly 50 more rooms. The staff is
English speaking and extremely friendly. All rooms are bright
and refreshing and well priced. Everything you could ask for is
included, Internet, cable satellite TV, safe, mini bar etc. Don’t
forget that one is only seconds from the excitement of the old
city and all it offers. Q23 rooms (6 singles 590Hr, 8 doubles
690Hr, 6 superior 890Hr, 3 suite 1390Hr). PRUW hhhh
Swiss Hotel C-5, Kniazia Romana 20, tel./fax (+380)
32 240 37 77, [email protected], www.swisshotel.lviv.ua. Swiss offers 18 suites, each of which is
uniquely decorated. All rooms come equipped with satellite
TV, telephone, mini-bar, air-conditioning, safe, hair dryer and
slippers. Breakfast is served in the Italian restaurant and is
included in the price. Other services include room service,
Lviv In Your Pocket
Accomodation in Lviv
The boom is on for Lviv’s hotel industry! Throughout its
history, the city’s stunning architecture, rich history and
exciting dining and entertainment options have drawn
travellers in hordes. However, there will soon be a new
reason to visit. In 2007, Lviv was chosen as a venue
for the Euro 2012 football competition, and the city
must gear-up quickly if it hopes to meet demand. New
establishments will serve to compliment existing hotels
and hostels, which offer a full range of comfort, style
and service. Tired of hotels? A number of agencies offer
renovated apartments that can be rented on a nightly
basis, and are considerably cheaper than many hotel
rooms. The advantages of privacy, a kitchen and more
space in general are definite plusses.
city tours in a variety of languages, a children’s room (free for
hotel guests), nanny services for small children and a conference hall with multimedia equipment. Q18 rooms (standard
€95, superior €95, junior suites €140, suites €160 - 180,
apartment €262). PHARLGKDCW hhhh
Vintage Boutique Hotel C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 25/27,
tel. (+380) 32 235 68 34, fax (+380) 32 235 70 24,
[email protected], www.vintagehotel.com.ua/
en/home.html. Vintage is located on one of old town’s most
alluring streets. The recently remodelled rooms are elegant and
come standard with satellite TV, telephone, mini-bar, air-conditioning, safe, Wi-Fi and slippers. The lux room is stunning and
the twins and doubles are comfortable; however, the singles
tend to be a bit claustrophobic. Many rooms offer fascinating
contrasting views of the surrounding ancient architecture. A
small business centre is at your service, and the complimentary
buffet breakfast is served in the café. Q12 rooms (3 singles
760Hr, 6 doubles 960Hr, 3 suites 1570Hr). PARLK
Zamok Leva G-5, Glinky 7, tel. (+380) 32 297 15 63/
(+380) 32 238 16 61, fax (+380) 32 237 82 51, info@
lioncastle.lviv.ua, www.lioncastlehotel.com/en. Located
in one of Lviv’s most elite neighbourhoods, Zamok Leva offers
guests serenity and comfort. The castle, constructed in 1898,
was the brainchild of architect Arthur Schlein. Fourteen rooms of
varying comfort and elegance are available and come equipped
with refrigerator, cable TV, DVD-player (upon request), Internet
access and telephone. Other services include covered parking,
laundry, baggage storage, and complimentary newspapers and
magazines. The restaurant offers an original mix of Austrian and
European cuisine. Aside from the main dining hall, the VIP room
can accommodate up to eight, the terrace is a romantic hotspot
and the summer courtyard is set next to a tranquil park. The
hotel’s conference hall seats up to 30. Q13 rooms (5 standard
500 - 750Hr, 3 business 650 - 750Hr, 4 junior suites 900 1000Hr, 1 suite 1500 - 1600Hr). HR6FLGKDCW
Mid-range
Natalia 18 B-2, Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla pl. 7, tel./
fax (+380) 32 242 20 68, www.natalia18.lviv.ua. The
quiet ambiance of this quaint hotel is a distinct contrast to the
bustle of the lively little square that lies beyond the threshold.
With only 22 rooms, it’s easy to feel at home and the friendly
English speaking staff knows how to accommodate. The
tastefully remodelled rooms are equipped with air-conditioning,
satellite TV, mini-bar and telephone. Natalia’s restaurant is set
in a comfy basement and features reasonably priced Ukrainian
and European cuisine. The salmon in a honey sauce is a local
favourite. Q22 rooms (3 singles 430Hr, 15 doubles 580 630Hr, 4 suites 800 - 1000Hr). POHARLGK hhh
Where to stay
Prestige F-2, Yaroslava Mudroho 33, tel. (+380) 32
244 41 78, fax (+380) 32 244 41 79, www.pristigehotel.lviv.ua/index_en.html. Don’t let the name frighten
your pocketbook, Prestige is actually good value for hryvnia.
Located a short cab ride from centre, rooms were recently
remodelled and are elegantly furnished. With only nine rooms
and one apartment, this hotel is regularly booked; advanced
reservation is the way to go. Breakfast is served in the café on
the ground floor and starts at 65Hr. Amenities include satellite
TV, air-conditioning, safe, mini bar, laundry service, 24 hour
room service and guarded parking. Q10 rooms (standards
385Hr, junior suites 485Hr, suites 985Hr). PAR hhh
Staryi Krakiv (Old Krakow) H-2, Shpytal’na 21, tel.
(+380) 32 297 16 30, fax (+380) 32 255 09 95, [email protected], www.staryikrakiv.lviv.ua. Turning
on to Shpytal’na vul. is like stepping into the aftermath of a
massive explosion. The street has been completely demolished. Unfortunately, the only access to this hotel is by foot.
However, the reward for the twisted ankle and dust on your
shoes is a clean, newly remodelled room at a great price.
Staff is friendly and speaks some English. The complimentary breakfast is served in the cosy courtyard café.Normal021falsefalsefalseMicrosoftInternetExplorer4/* Style Definitions */table.MsoNormalTable{mso-style-name:”Обычная
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350Hr, 4 doubles 420Hr, 2 triples 520Hr). RGKW hhh
U Burgera I-4, Ivana Franka 73, tel. (+380) 32 276 12
51/(+380) 67 673 50 51, fax (+380) 32 296 65 69,
[email protected], www.burger.com.ua. We were a
touch confused when we first entered the hotel: there’s a
beer tap mounted on the reception desk. I’m sure were not
the first visitors to wonder “Where the hell are we?” Since
we had a few minutes to kill before our tour, we ordered a
couple pints of Lvivske Premium and enjoyed. Rooms are
comfortable and come in various themes. For example, the
lux room sleeps up to four and looks like something Elton
John would decorate. All rooms are equipped with satellite
TV, Internet and telephone. General services include transfer
from the airport and rail station, travel services, interpreter,
car hire, room service and parking. A small conference hall
is also available. Q18 rooms (10 standards 425 - 500Hr, 5
junior suites 575 - 650Hr, 3 suites 750 - 1200Hr, extra bed
100Hr). PHARLKW hhhh
Vienna B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. (+380) 32 244
43 14/(+380) 32 244 43 15, fax (+380) 32 244 43
16, [email protected], www.wienhotel.lviv.ua.
Vienna’s location, competitive prices and welcoming staff
makes for an attractive combination. Even in the low season
rooms are hard to come by, so book ahead. All rooms have
a cosy welcome home appeal, offer enthralling views of Lviv’s
lively centre and come equipped with air-conditioning, cable
TV and Internet access. The summer patio, part of the celebrated Vienna Coffehouse restaurant, is one of the hottest
venues in town. A billiard hall is also available. Q20 rooms
(10 singles 450 - 520Hr, 4 doubles 500 - 570Hr, 2 triples
580Hr, 2 suites 750 - 800Hr, 2 junior suites 640 - 690Hr).
PARLKW hhh
€1 = 11.30Hr; US$1 = 7.99Hr; £1 = 12.71Hr
(20 March 2011 official rates)
Budget
George C-5, Mickiewicza pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 232 62
36, fax (+380) 32 297 11 44, [email protected].
ua, www.georgehotel.com.ua. Hotel George was founded
by George Hoffman in 1901. The structure itself is a fine
example of Neo-Renaissance architecture and was designed
by famed Viennese architects Ferdinand Fellner and Hermann Helmer. The interior was restored in 1991 meaning
that a touch of Soviet remains, i.e. the lift really takes your
breath away. The deluxe and semi-deluxe rooms are spacious, have been remodelled to the local taste and come
standard with telephone, cable TV, Internet access and a
refrigerator. Many rooms have romantic views of Svobody
prosp. and Lviv’s historic centre. Tourist class rooms come
at a bargain rate, but you’ll have to share a bathroom and
shower. The service is up to standard and English is not a
problem for most of the helpful staff. George’s restaurant,
bar and banquet room are located through the lobby. The Lviv
chestnut beef and savoury pork highlight the restaurant’s
reasonably priced menu and the complimentary breakfast
begins at 8:00. Q 72 rooms (economy rooms 350Hr,
standards 700 - 750Hr, junior suites 800Hr, suites 900Hr).
PHARKW hhh
Lviv A-2, Viacheslava Chornovola 7, tel. (+380) 32 242
32 70/(+380) 32 272 86 51, fax (+380) 32 272 86 51.
With 368 rooms, this is one of Lviv’s largest hotels. Centrally
located, rooms on the upper floors facing V. Chernovola prosp.
come with nice views of the historic centre. Not much has
changed with the lobby, stairs and lift since Soviet days and
room furnishings are a bit rough around the edges. Only about
half of the rooms come with telephone and a TV; “superior”
rooms have refrigerators. Ukrainian and European are on
order in the restaurant and there’s plenty of parking for those
bold enough to drive on Ukraine’s roads. Q economy rooms
90 - 160Hr, singles 150 - 220Hr, doubles 240 - 300Hr, junior
suites 380 - 550Hr. LK
Hostels
Central Square Hostel C-3, Rynok pl. 5, tel. (+380)
32 254 61 69/(+380) 97 222 41 36, cshostel@gmail.
com, www.cshostel.com/en. Central offers the unique experience of staying right on Rynok pl. (Market Square) - Lviv’s
cobbled heart. With only 18 available beds, space is limited.
Owner and stuff will give you most needed information about
city and places where to go. However, this is a fine choice for
travellers on a hostel budget looking to avoid crowds. Things
to know before you go: no curfew, 24 hours reception, Wi-Fi,
breakfast, private lockers and a newly remodelled bathroom
with laundry. Q doubles 150Hr, triples 160Hr, quads 140Hr,
6-dorm 120Hr, 8-dorm 95Hr. R6GW
Spring 2011
17
18
Where to stay
Kurmanovicha Kurmanovycha 9, tel. (+380) 67 314
66 61, [email protected]. Although this hostel is
located a bit from centre, it has its pluses. Situated in a “recreation zone”, it’s just a 50 metre walk from Levandivka Park.
Twenty-five rooms can accommodate up to 120 travellers.
Conveniences are shared, but hot water is available 24/7. A
relatively large car park is available. Discounts from 10 -15%
are offered to groups larger than 20. Breakfast and parking
are not included in the rate. Q RL
Leo City I-4, Konopnyt’skoi 15/7, 3d floor, door code
7, tel. (+380) 93 948 93 26, hostel.leocity@gmail.
com, www.leocityhostel.com. Locating the building that
houses this hostel is easy. The trick is finding your way into
the hostel itself. It’s actually located on the third floor, and
you may need to call reception for someone to show you the
way. Once inside, you’ll discover competitive rates on newly
remodelled rooms. Choose from a ten or eight bed room, and
one private room. The freebie list is extensive and includes
coffee, tea, milk, breakfast, towels, linens, Wi-Fi, luggage
storage, maps and advice. Q doubles 220Hr, 8-dorm 80Hr,
10-dorm 60Hr. ARW
Lviv Backpackers Hostel Roxelana F-4, Henerala
Chuprynky 50/4, tel. (+380) 97 444 97 89, [email protected], www.roxelana.hostel.com. The name
implies exactly what this is; A hostel for “true backpackers”.
Those wishing to really economize will probably not find
anything cheaper in all of Europe! There are shared rooms
with 8 beds each and a smaller room for more “private
accommodation”. The décor is “Late Brezhnev” with some
remodeling taking place. A kitchen is available as well as
an “in-house” café for those wishing to eat-in. Breakfast is
included along with Wi-Fi and a whole lot of services provided
including cable TV & bicycle hire. It is easily accessible and
about halfway between the Train station and the city centre.
Q 1 singles 100Hr, 3 doubles 200Hr, 1 triples 300Hr, 10-beds
60Hr. RLW
Old Ukrainian Home G-2, Lepkoho 12, tel. (+380) 32
272 76 11/(+380) 67 911 14 31, oldua@homehostels.
com.ua, www.homehostels.org. Old Ukrainian Home is a
vibrant, cosy addition to Lviv’s hostel spectrum. The location
is supreme - just a short walk from the city’s prime attractions. Rooms are tidy and comfortable, and the antique
touches add nicely to what is sure to be a unique experience.
Freebies include linen and towels, hair dryer, washing machine, iron, safe, Wi-fi, coffee and tea. Choose from a private
room with a double bed, and six and ten bed dorm rooms.
Other mentionables include 24 hour reception, tourist information, train and bus ticket booking, kitchen, library and
bicycle hire. Q singles 190 - 200Hr, doubles 140 - 150Hr,
triples 140 - 150Hr, 6-dorm 90 - 95Hr, 10-dorm 85 - 90Hr.
PAR6GW
Retro Hostel Shevchenko C-6, Shevchenka prosp.
16, tel./fax (+380) 32 240 37 61, sun.hotel.2007@
gmail.com. Ideally located on one of Lviv’s most central
thoroughfares, Retro has a lot to offer. Choose from a single
bed in a private room to a bed in a room with 13 potential
new best friends and everything in between. Most rooms
are spacious, and all rooms come with air-conditioning and
security lockers. Prices are competitive and the staff is very
pleasant. A wide range of amenities are available including
airport transfer, 24 hour reception, Wi-Fi and Internet access,
breakfast (for an additional 2 euros), parking, tours, kitchen,
bar, restaurant, barbecue area, pool table and hot tub.
Q14 rooms (4 doubles €5, 2 triples €5, 2 quads €5, 52 dorm
beds €3 - 4). JARW
Lviv In Your Pocket
Soviet Home Hostel Drukars’ka 3, tel. (+380) 93 319
67 97, [email protected], www.homehostels.
org. Soviet Home offers the fascinating experience of living
in a typical Soviet-era flat with two important exceptions:
modern bathrooms and beds. Just a couple blocks from
Rynok ploscha, the location is truly exceptional. Select from
six and ten bed dorms, and private triple, twin and single
rooms. Breakfast, linens, towels, luggage storage and even a
city tour are included. The hostel also offers Internet, 24 hour
reception, washing machines and pickup service from the
airport and train station (call for details). Q4 rooms (singles
190 - 200Hr, doubles 150 - 170Hr, triples 140 - 150Hr, 6-dorm
90 - 100Hr, 10-dorm 95 - 100Hr). R6GW
The Georgehouse hostel G-3, Ustyyanovycha 8,
apt.1, tel. (+380) 50 430 64 54, [email protected],
www.georgehouse.com.ua. A great place for “Art Deco”
lovers! Uniquely designed in a very friendly and clean environment. Even the bathroom cups match the design scheme. It is
worth the visit just to feel the experience. There are 2 rooms:
one for 4 and another for 8 people. The kitchen is equipped
with refrigerator, microwave, and electric kettle. Additional
services are free tea and coffee, phone, hair dryer, TV in each
room, Wi-Fi, lockers, laundry, and 24 hour reception. Parking
is available. Located near the city centre near the St. George
Cathedral. Q dorms 100 - 110Hr.
The Kosmonaut A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 8, tel./fax
(+380) 32 260 16 02, tel. (+380) 93 655 42 19, info@
thekosmonaut.com, www.thekosmonaut.com. The Kosmonaut has become Lviv’s most popular hostel for one simple
reason: Aussie owner Eddie and his staff genuinely care about
each and every guest. The enthusiasm they exude for their city
is infectious. They know all the hotspots and never hesitate
to let you in on where to go and what to do. You’re sure to find
yourself in the company of a fascinating and eclectic crowd of
fellow travellers. We sat down for the complementary breakfast
of baked apple, tea and toast and quickly found ourselves
swapping life stories with two Peace Corps volunteers, a Dutch
pensioner, an “AWOL” American soldier, two stranded Russian
journalists and a Croat in town to find a Geiger counter. Accommodation options include 12, 10, 6 and 4 bed dormitories and
one private room. A communal kitchen, free Internet and Wi-Fi
and laundry are also available. Q 1 doubles €26, 1 quads
€9 - 12, 28 dorm beds €9 - 11. LGW
Out of town
Vezha Vedmezha Tsotsora natural boundary, Volo-
syanka village, Skolivs’kyi district, Lviv Region, tel.
(+380) 67 474 44 74/(+380) 97 410 53 10, fax
(+380) 32 276 16 61, [email protected], www.vvhotel.com. If you need to flee the city or just want to get
high on crisp mountain air, this is the place for you. Located
in a picturesque nook of the Carpathian Mountains, not far
from the Slavs’ke ski resort, this cosy castle features 25
uniquely furnished suites. The “Vezha” suite is the pride of
the hotel, and features a romantic fireplace and breathtaking panoramic views. All suites are equipped with satellite
TV, telephone, safe, mini-bar and hair dryer. Specialising in
corporate team-building events, attendees may choose from
a variety of activities such as the medieval themed “Brave
Heart” programme, mountain rescue, rafting and much
more. One final note of interest: Vezha Vedmezha won in “The
Brightest New Hotel” category at the 2008 Ukrainian Travel
Awards. Q26 rooms (20 doubles 600 - 720Hr, 4 suites
900Hr, 1 superior suite 1500Hr, 1 apartments 1800Hr).
PHA6LGKDC hhhh
Restaurants
Lviv‘s dining scene is a reflection of the city‘s incredibly
rich and diverse history. Every corner of global cuisine is
represented (French, Greek, Italian, Viennese, Jewish, Asian,
American, Latin, etc.), and local Ukrainian and Halytska
(Galician) restaurants are among the finest in Ukraine. In
the historic centre, you‘re never more than a couple steps
away from your next dining experience, and the standard
of service is excellent. With so many establishments to
choose from, we hope that this guide serves as the solution
to the overwhelming question: What‘s for dinner?
Ukrainian
Garbuz I-3, Ivana Franka 15, tel. (+380) 32 225 51 51,
www.garbuz.lviv.ua. No time to wait for a meal? The Garbuz
is a lovely place to get ready made food. It is very delicious, of
good quality, and inexpensive. One cannot miss it; the front door
is very unusual, like opening a giant pumpkin. This restaurant
has its own original style; with massive oak tables, metal
made into whimsical lamps, and the royal chairs. It is actually
an indescribable design. We strongly suggest viewing the web
site. At lunch time, the tempo moves quickly. In the evening it
is another story. The Pumpkin is transformed into a cozy pub
with fresh draft beer and a lots of TV monitors for sports fans.
In fact, a large room with a giant TV is already in place for the
2012 football championship games. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00, Sat
11:00 - 23:00, Sun 12:00 - 23:00. PAEGW
Hors C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 5, tel. (+380) 32 235 41 57,
www.hors.com.ua. Hors was the Slavic god of the winter
sun whom ancient Lvivian pagans associated with healing
and survival. The stairs leading to the restaurant have been
described as “fifteen stairs to the 15th century”. You are not
entering a basement, this is actually a renovated section of
an ancient catacomb and the rocks that line the base of the
arched walls were set in the 15th century. The unique mysterious atmosphere is definitely worth checking out, but don’t
get too distracted as the menu offers its own intrigue with
items like salmon with spinach, steaks and dishes dedicated
to the Slavic gods. Live music is performed Thursday-Sunday.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. €€. PAGW
International Varenyky Fund (IVF) C-3, Kathedralna
pl. 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 60 96. Currently, IVF is a bit tricky
to find. Its front door is buried in a mesh of scaffolding - part
of an attempt to reconstruct the building’s façade. My hippy
aunt, still suffering acid flashbacks, may well have been the
interior decorator. Pelmeni are ordered individually, and go for
142 kopeks per unit. Varenyky come stuffed with a variety
of tasty fillings including mashed potatoes, cheese, cabbage and cherries. Many of the main dishes are priced per
100 gram so ask the server for approximate size in order to
avoid confusion when the bill arrives. Menus in English are
available upon request. Also at A-3, Furmans’ka 6, tel. (+380)
32 225 58 86; A-5, Kopernyka 28, tel. (+380) 32 261 38 29.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
Symbol key
P Air conditioning
A Credit cards accepted
T Child friendly
S Take away
V Home delivery
U Facilities for the disabled
G Non-smoking areas
I Fireplace
O Casino
6 Animal friendly
L Guarded parking
E Live music
B Terrace
W Wi-Fi internet access
Price guide
The average price for a main course:
more than €20 per person
€€€€
€€€
€15 - 20 per person
€€
€10 - 15 per person
€
less than €10 per person
Kentavr C-3, pl. Rynok 34, tel. (+380) 322 72 05 12.
Kentavr is the mythical god with the head and torso of a man
and body of a horse. Oddly enough, Kentavr has no connection to this restaurant or its cuisine, but it is a pretty kick-butt
mascot. The dining area has a laid back atmosphere with
inspiring paintings, some of which are the work of local painters and can be purchased. Ukrainian and European dominate
the menu. Varenyky, pork dishes of all shapes and sizes and
savoury fish dishes are some of the highlights. Rich desserts,
such as the chocolate “Praga” cake, four types of strudel
and cheesecake, go great with the specialty teas, which
arrive to the table in fancy pots. Brunch is served daily from
11:00-13:00. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PALEGSW
Khmilnyi Dim Roberta Domsa G-2, Kleparivs’ka 18,
tel. (+380) 32 242 25 94, www.robertdoms.lviv.ua.
Robert Doms, an aristocratic young Swiss man, brought his
brewing talent to Lvivskoe Brewery in the 1850s. Every morning
a young Lvivian maiden named Zosia would bring Robert a five
litre tankard of the previous day’s brew, which he would guzzle
(a crude but effective means of quality control). With the help
of his extremely thick beer-goggles, Robert soon fell in love and
married Zosia. The pub, located in one of Lvivskoe Brewery’s
cellars (a 15 minute walk from centre) is a fitting tribute to
Rob’s contribution to Lviv’s beer industry and to his and Zosia’s
touching romantic tale. The energy here is unmatched in Lviv
and live music echoes through the cellar’s halls nightly. With
hearty Ukrainian meals served for up to six, the fantastic menu
encourages a communal dining experience. Who knows, guzzle
enough fresh brew and you too might hook-up with your own
Zosia. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. AEGS
Medivnia B-3, Krakivska 17, tel. (+380) 32 272 91 41.
The name Medivnia translates “Honey Brew”. It is located in
the heart of the old city. The interior design is fascinating, with
pictures, and artifacts of “old Ukraine”. The cuisine is a large
variety of traditional Ukrainian dishes, meat, poultry, fish, and
vegetables. The Ukrainian ribs with honey sauce was delicious!
There is an English menu, though it takes some effort to understand the “Ukrainian-English”. It was a lot of fun actually as
the server was very friendly. We forgot something at our table,
and the server went out of his way to find someone who could
speak English and had them call the number on my business
card. This doesn’t happen that often in Ukraine. The house
speciality is called «medovukha», an alcoholic drink steeped in
natural honey and herbs, which has been brewed the same way
since the 18th century. It was the traditional brew drunk by the
Cossacks. Medivnia has very reasonable prices and is a place
we would love to return to. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PAGB
Porokhova Vezha D-3, Pidval’na 4, tel. (+380) 32
276 51 62. This popular eatery can be a bit tricky to find.
It’s located across the street from the Dominican Cathedral
in the ancient looking fortress with the two smirking lions
perched on the steps. Enter through the north side. Locals
and travellers alike are attracted by the reasonable priced
Ukrainian favourites and snug atmosphere perfect for enjoying
a glass of wine. The summer terrace with shashlyk grill is a
popular cooling-off/filling-up point for hikers ascending and
descending Vysokyi Zamok Mount. English is in short supply,
but the servers are charming and patient (they’ve seen your
kind before). QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. GBS
Spring 2011
19
20
Restaurants
American
Pyvnytsia Leva B-3, Shevs’ka 18, tel. (+380) 32 295
95 08. Located in the basement of the affluent Leopolis hotel,
Pyvnytsa Leva is a casual compliment to the hotel’s elegant
Svitlytsya Leva restaurant. This is a great place to meet up
with friends and colleagues, enjoy a meal from the spectacular
menu or just sip on a beer and toke a cigar. QOpen 17:00 23:00. PA6ILEGBSW
Seven Piggies G-4, Stepana Bandery 9, tel. (+380) 32
297 55 58, www.7piggies.com.ua. The classic Ukrainian
khata (hut) ambiance and attentive service make this a fine
choice for those looking to sample the local cuisine. The only
drawbacks are its locale, just far enough from old town to
make you think twice, and the prices are slightly above average. Many of the main courses - king salmon steak, “Cossack”
beefsteak, pork ribs - are priced per 100 grams. Traditional
soups, salads and horilka (vodka) are plentiful and the fresh
squeezed juices and chocolate cake are worth adding to the
order. Banquets can be booked for up to 25, and the banquet
menu is loaded with delights such as stuffed sturgeon, baked
piglet and specialty duck, goose and turkey dishes. Menus in
English are available upon request. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
PAIEGS
Veronika C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 21, tel. (+380) 2
261 44 56, www.veronika.lviv.ua. On a day when most
eateries were deserted, Veronika only had a couple tables
available in the basement. The interior is tight but classy and
the soft lighting adds to the romantic ambiance. The menu
is mostly European with some Ukrainian and a sprinkling of
other world favourites. Choose from four varieties of fondue,
an impressive selection of fish dishes and mouth watering
breads and desserts baked fresh on site. With western classics such as the European breakfast croissant with ham and
veggies, this is winning choice for breakfast. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. AGBS
Vezha Kramariv (Merchant Tower) B-3, Svobody
prosp. 16-18, tel. (+380) 32 272 39 39. While feasting
in this restaurant’s tower, it’s easy to imagine what supper
would have been like at the home of a medieval merchant.
On the third floor you’ll find bear skin rugs, a stuffed beaver,
a jack-a-lope minus the horns and other sorted items,
which add to the motif. The summer terrace is one of the
most popular warm-weather spots on Svobody. The Dutch
KaasDoop fondue is large enough feed a small partisan
army, the barbeque items are in high demand and the chef’s
original creations - such as the salmon steak stewed with
sour cream, apples and bananas - are definitely stimulating.
We sampled the stewed pork (tasty, but a bit on the greasy
side) and the baked veal medallions (tender and served
with a mouth-watering compliment of fresh vegetables).
QOpen 24hrs. PTAIGBW
Lviv In Your Pocket
The Grill B-3, Teatralna 22, Kinopalace Cinema, tel.
(+380) 32 235 49 91, www.thegrill.com.ua. Steak, Wok,
and Roll! A friendly Cowboy greeted us at the door. So a country western atmosphere should be inside right? Yes and no.
Yes if one wants to sit on the ground floor smoking section.
No if one wants non-smoking. Then it’s down stairs to the
beautifully oriental designed non-smoking area. The menus,
and there several of them, are available in both sections. We
opted for the “country” section, as this seems a bit of a rare
experience Ukraine. In the afternoon it seemed like an endless
supply of Elvis albums were being played. In the evening there
was a guitar soloist with harmonica. All menus are in English
with pictures and graphic illustrations. There is a large Drink
menu offering delicious homemade beer. The sushi menu has
dishes listed with names of some U.S. cities and states. The
steak menu has diagrams and explanations of different cuts
of meat. It’s something that a lot of restaurants and meat
sellers seem to ignore. We tried the sirloin, rare. The old saying
“it seems to melt in your mouth” certainly applies here! There
are also BBQ, Lamb, and mixed dishes on this menu. The fish
and poultry menu as well as the soup, salad, and side order
menus are divided into East and West; East for Oriental - West
for U.S. Country style. So is the pasta/rice, garnish, and desert
menu. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAEGW
Armenian
Krakivska Brama B-3, Krakivs‘ka 5, tel. (+380) 32
236 72 73. Though European, Carpathian (Hutsul) and
Ukrainian are all represented on the menu, the delicious
authentic Armenian is what sets this place apart. We recommend taking a seat in the basement near the flavourful
mangal (grill), where chefs meticulously roast Lulya kabob,
mutton shashlyk, sea trout and other traditional delicacies.
If you would like to keep the good times rolling after hours,
it will set you back 150Hr per hour. Also, it‘s definitely worth
keeping this eatery in mind for breakfast; the omelettes and
crêpes come with complimentary tea and toast. Banquets
can be organised for up to 50, and tour groups are welcome to place orders in advance. QOpen 08:00 - 24:00.
PAUIGBS
Asian
U Kima J-3, Tugan-Baranavskoho 14, tel. (+380) 32
275 66 28. Authentic Korean food with some Ukrainian
dishes as well. It is a bit off the beaten track but well worth
the effort. There are 3 different dining rooms so it’s ideal for
private functions. We felt it a bit more pricy then the average
restaurant in Lviv, but for Korean food lovers, U Kima is a must!
QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. PG
Brewery
Kumpel D-5, Vynnychenka 6, tel. (+380) 32 242 17 80.
The centrepiece of this lively restaurant is the two large vats
where Kumpel beer is brewed. It’s definitely worth your time
to sample all three varieties (dark, light and red). We were
particularly impressed by the incredibly fresh and lively light.
The menu is loaded with steaks, seafood and beer munchies.
For exceptional service, just push the little call button. QOpen
11:00 - 24:00. PAGBS
Stargorod Brewery D-5, Rymlianyna 1 (Mytna Ploscha), tel. (+380) 32 229 55 05, www.stargorod.net.
Don’t let the name fool you! It’s not just a brewery that makes
its own traditional “Live” Czech beer. It’s one of the largest
restaurants we have ever seen in Ukraine. We were greeted
Restaurants
Chinese
Pan Tao Kryms‘ka 28, tel. (+380) 32 225 77
40/(+380) 32 225 77 30, www.pantao.com.ua.
Pan Tao is a stylish restaurant with an impressive and
exotic kitchen. Sample some of the Orient‘s finest culinary
traditions including Peking Duck, a signature frog‘s legs
dish and a variety of delicious desserts. With more than
100 vintages from all over the world, it‘s no surprise that
the sommelier is one of the more popular staff members.
Flavourful and relaxing, the tea ceremonies are worth
savouring until the last drop. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
€€€. PAEGS
outside by a full -sized roasting pig. We were told that between
the 2 floors, 300-400 people could be seated at one time.
Aside from the “Live” beer, which only lasts 20 minutes after
it is taken out of the basement; There is the “Desitka” - a light
beer, the “Lager” - A pils type, and “Black” - a dark beer. From
Monday-Friday at 17:00 a tour of the brewery is conducted
for those interested in seeing just how these great beers
are produced. As for the food, the chef, Radek Koniechny, is
a 3rd generation Czech cook. He has also worked in Austria
and Germany. So the menu is a combination of a lot of classic
dishes from the countries where he has worked. There are
also dishes which the Chef designed himself which are made
to go right along with the delicious beer served at Stargorod.
The prices are very reasonable with a mix grill for two starting
at 115 Hr. Sports broadcasts can be viewed on 3 big screens
and 20 monitors. QOpen 24hrs. PAULEGBW
Czech
Praga (Prague) A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. (+380)
32 260 24 42, [email protected], www.praga.lviv.ua.
The interior of this popular Czech restaurant is decorated in
Art Nouveau and is set-off by reproductions of the tastefully
provocative art of Alphonse Mucha. An English menu is in the
works. For now, just close your eyes, point to an item and you
won‘t be disappointed. The professional English speaking staff
is at your service to help with your selection. Praga knows how
to roast (especially pork) and all dishes swim in rich flavour.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PTAEGSW
European
Amadeus C-4, Сathedral’na pl. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261
50 22. When the roof is shut on the summer terrace it’s
impossible to see the sign to this popular restaurant located
in the heart of old town. If you get turned around, just look next
to the Diamant Jeweller’s workshop. With one of the most
eclectic menus in Lviv, it’s hard to go wrong and the pork steak
Amadeus comes highly recommended. Familiarity in service
standards, a fantastic breakfast/brunch menu and a posh
but not too over the top atmosphere make this a popular
expat haunt. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAB
Atmosphera C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 18, tel. (+380)
322 55 08 32, [email protected], www.atmosphera.lviv.ua. For Ukrainians, atmosphere is everything.
Current dining trends represent a revolt against the drab
stand-up Soviet lunch counters and cafés that were once
the only option. Atmosphera offers “creative” Euro cuisine to
go with the ultra-chic ambiance. The menu features steaks
(pork and veal) and intriguing dishes such as Mafaldine pasta
with cold smoked salmon, red caviar, cream and parmesan
cheese. This venue also houses a business meeting room
and a popular pub/club. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun
12:00 - 03:00. ESW
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Restaurants
Jewish
Pid Zolotoiu Rozoyu C-4, Staroyevreis‘ka 48, near
the Synagogue, tel. (+380) 32 236 75 53. This Jewish
restaurant is located downhill from the ruins of the Golden
Rose Synagogue, the oldest synagogue in Ukraine. The
outdoor seating is exceptional and helps make this a dining
hotspot. Here are a few things to know before you go. 1.
There are no prices listed on the menu as you are expected
to barter. Being a foreigner, they‘re likely to just quote you
a reasonable price. 2. For the right price you can secretly
arrange to have your waiter smuggle in some pork dishes.
How kosher is this place? 3. They offer a fantastic selection
of salads, vegetable dishes, Galician desserts and traditional Jewish breads. 4. For a taste of Lviv you‘ll never forget,
try the homemade vodka. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. A
French
Eurohotel Restaurant J-4, Tershakivtsiv 6A, Eurohotel, tel. (+380) 32 275 51 73. From the traditional
leafy French salad with salmon and crayfish, to club sandwiches and the chef‘s special Richelieu soup, everything
on the menu fits right in. Indeed, this is a classy upgrade
from the hotel‘s previous restaurant. The veal filet in truffle sauce, the certified Angus T-bone and salmon penne
are tempting, but the grilled lamb plate for four is where
it‘s at. With tiramisu, strudel and cheesecake all on the
menu, they didn‘t make your dessert selection an easy
one. The affordable breakfast buffet starts up early, the
VIP room seats eight and banquets can be booked for up
to 50. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PALG
Seafood
Panorama A-3, Svobody prosp. 45, tel. (+380) 32
225 90 09. Located on the seventh floor of the Opera
Hotel, Panorama offers an unmatched view of the Opera
House and of Lviv‘s historic centre. The summer terrace
and the tables closest to the view are extremely popular.
Booking ahead will insure a spectacular evening. The
eclectic menu reads like poetry: „Veal medallions with
forest mushrooms and black truffle sauce“. The Caesar
salad has procured a cult following and the crab soup is
unbelievably rich. If you‘re hoping to spark a new romance
or just kick start an old love, this is the obvious place
to start or finish your evening. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00.
PTALEGBSW
Darwin B-3, Shevs’ka 6, 5th floor, tel. (+380) 32 294
82 05. The name Darwin was chosen not only as a tribute to
the father of evolutionary theory but as a symbolic statement
announcing the embodiment of the evolution and refinement
of Lviv’s restaurant scene. Located on the fifth and sixth floor
of a renovated historic structure, the elegant atmosphere is
framed by enticing views of surrounding ancient roof tops. The
menu contains one of the most elaborate seafood selections
found in the city with fried dorado, calamari, sea bass and
savoury salmon dishes. There’s also an enticingly unique
offering of game such as wild boar under cherry sauce and
wine basted venison. Being a popular cigar club, the finest
smokes are available and smoking is permitted throughout
the restaurant. Popular with locals and tourists alike, Darwin
tends to be busy on the weekends making advanced booking
the way to go. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PW
Europe C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 14, tel. (+380) 32 261
19 71, www.restourant-europa.com. With its tasteful
atmosphere, Europe is perfect for a relaxed or romantic
meal. The menu is simple but exquisite; even with the
limited selection you’ll have a hard time deciding between
the succulent fish, meat and poultry dishes. The wine card
and cocktail selection are scanty so go with food on your
mind. A minimum bill charge of 250Hr applies for using the
private dining area. Located upstairs (watch your step) it can
accommodate up to 10, but is lacking in elbow room. Great
breakfast specials are available daily. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00.
PTALGBW
Fashion Club B-4, Ivana Pidkovy pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32
272 88 91. Fashion Club is fronted by one of Svobody prospect’s largest and most popular outdoor seating areas. The
ambiance of the restaurant area isn’t quit as fashionable as
one might expect, nevertheless, the kitchen is open ‘round
the clock’ and whips up a plethora of European: English
breakfast for late night partiers/early-birds, Italian antipasto
for lunch and T-bone steaks and filet mignon for dinner. The
club is located in the back, attracts some of the more talented
local DJs and is open nightly from 11:00 to 5:00. No admission
fee Monday through Wednesday. Thursday is ladies’ night
and Friday through Sunday attracts a diverse and vibrant
crowd. QOpen 24 hrs.
Garmata H-4, Hrabovs’koho 11, tel. (+380) 32 295 82
22, www.citadel-inn.com.ua. Located at the enthralling
Citadel Inn, this elegant restaurant offers an inspiring panorama of Lviv, excellent European cuisine and a spacious dining
hall with unforgettable ambiance reminiscent of 19th century
Austria. The walls are decorated in various historical themes,
and the engrossing decorative rugs display ancient maps of
Lviv. Though this is one of Lviv’s romantic hotspots, it is also
ideal for banquets, business meetings and hooking up with
friends. The citadel’s cannons are fired on special occasions,
and a children’s room is also available. QOpen 07:00 - 24:00.
€€€€. PALGBSW
Grand Hotel Restaurant B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel.
(+380) 32 272 40 91. Known for its attention to detail and
service standards that cater specifically to foreign travellers,
Grand Hotel Restaurant is perfect for both romantic dinners
and lively business luncheons. Ukrainian and European
cuisine make up a menu highlighted by the kitchen’s own
creations. For a memorable bite of Lviv, try the Grand Hotel
pork (stuffed grilled pork served in a coconut milk and pepper
sauce) and the Grand Hotel cake (a secret recipe chocolate
cake). Located on Lviv’s main strolling prospects, the summer terrace is one of the city’s most popular dining spots.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAULEGBSW
Lviv In Your Pocket
Restaurants
Kupol A-6, Chaikovs’koho 37, tel. (+380) 32 261 44 54,
www.kupol.lviv.ua. Imagine that your Polish-Ukrainian aunt
has invited you for dinner. By the way, the year is 1955. Kupol
blends a homey atmosphere, traditional Polish cuisine and
antiques from the early 20th century to create one of Lviv’s
most unforgettable dining experiences. Add to that reasonable prices and limited seating and…well, you’d be wise
to book ahead. The pork in cranberry sauce is particularly
popular. The separate banquet hall accommodates up to 20.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. €€. PJAGBSW
La Rouge C-6, Saksahans’koho 11, tel. (+380) 32 240
34 76. Just a stone’s throw from the hectic historic centre,
the prevailing atmosphere can be described as hushed. Skip
the Ukrainian and order from the European menu. The chefs
were trained by an Italian master, and their command over
classic Italian recipes is noteworthy. The lasagne Bolognese,
cannelloni Rossini and ravioli with salmon all feature La Rouge’s
handmade pasta. Other specialties include eggplant parmesan
and captivating seafood, pork and veal dishes. A classy banquet hall can accommodate up to 40, and a VIP hall is available
for 15. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. Sun 14:00 - 23:00. €€. PAG
Naydorozhcha Restoratsiya Halychyny (The Most
Expensive Galician Restaurant) C-4, pl. Rynok 14, tel.
(+380) 50 430 87 83. At first we thought that the word “Expensive” was a mistranslation, but then we opened the menu…
Don’t be frightened by the prices, if you show interest in the
restaurant’s Masonic theme, your waiter is likely to give you a “10
times cheaper” discount card. Besides, we are convinced that the
food and fascinating ambiance are well worth the insane prices.
As we entered, an attendant dressed us in the Masonic apron,
and then introduced this fascinating cult. It was quite revealing
how influential the Masons have been in shaping world history.
Benjamin Franklin, George Washington, Abraham Lincoln, Peter
the Great and local heroes Mykhailo Hrushevsky and Ivan Franko
Georgian
Staryi Tiflis (Old Tbilisi) J-3, Pekars‘ka 28, tel.
(+380) 32 276 61 11. Georgians are known throughout
Eastern Europe as masters of the grill, and the chefs at
Staryi Tiflis uphold this stereotype. Chicken wings, lamb,
pork, veggies and even beef tongue are all roasted to
perfection over open flames. Whenever pouring snifters
of cognac, a friend of ours from Tbilisi likes to joke, “It‘s
always useful to keep a bottle of French or Armenian
cognac around the house - you need something to clean
the glasses out before pouring the good Georgian stuff.”
Indeed, Georgians are extremely proud of their cognac
and aromatic wines, and Staryi Tiflis has some of the
better brands on hand. They also keep some French and
Armenian behind the bar in case you notice some spots
on your glass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGSW
Uzbek
Bukhara A-3, Furmans‘ka 6, tel. (+380) 32 244 42
25. Reasonable prices, a unique atmosphere and hearty
authentic Uzbek cuisine keep this place busy every night
of the week. An English menu is available upon request.
The shurpa (mutton soup) was some of the best we‘ve
ever sampled and the cheburek (Uzbek meat pie), pilaf
and shashlik are all dripping with authenticity. Despite the
crowded house, the food arrived quickly and with a smile.
The cosy cottage interior bends time and offers a view into
an obscure land where most dream to travel, but never
catch a flight. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PASW
Spring 2011
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Restaurants
Latin American
Alpaca C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. (+380) 32
272 50 41, www.ghgroup.com.ua. Alpaca has your
Latin cravings covered. For those who like it spicy, try
the jalapeños rellenos - they kick like a painted Tijuana
burro. This is a fine choice for the whole family. Mom and
Pop can choose from one of five variations of Margarita
and the kids will love the nachos, burritos, enchiladas
and the surprise souvenirs. Q Open 11:00 - 23:00.
PALG
were all Masons. This place is brimming with fascinating symbolism, relics and tales, and the menu ain’t bad either. The European
fare drips with authenticity; this is perhaps the only place in town
where you can find a classic Caesar salad. The centrepiece is
an antique piano on which a pianist performs Friday - Sunday
from 20:00 - 23:00. QOpen 11:00 - 02:00. €€€. PAGW
Nostalgia C-4, Serbska 6, tel. (+380) 32 272 77 50.
This is actually a proper restaurant located on a side street
from the market square. (Ploshcha Rynok). There is a comfortable atmosphere this candle lit two room restaurant. The
interior is as the name suggests nostalgic and deemed reminiscent of France in the early 1900’ss. The staff is friendly and
try to communicate in English. There is an English menu which
lists many Ukrainian and international dishes or let’s say their
own variation of Dutch, French, German, and Spanish dishes;
Liver Berlin style, Chicken Curry Madrid way, Salmon French
style, and Jerusalem carp, just to name a few. Exotic appetisers include tongue, brain, and Dutch Fondue. There is also a
very busy banquet room. Prices are very reasonable and it
is a great place to visit. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGW
Vienna Coffee House B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel.
(+380) 32 272 20 21, fax (+380) 32 272 24 52,
[email protected], www.wienkaffe.lviv.ua. At Lviv’s
epicentre you’ll find the Wien Hotel and the popular Vienna
Coffee House. The venue is split in two with a café on one side
and an elegant restaurant/banquet room on the other. Order
anything on the menu with the word “Viennese” attached and
you won’t be disappointed. The Viennese schnitzel with mushroom sauce could be the best schnitzel this side of the Danube.
It’s easy to become glued to your seat on the relaxing summer
terrace, a perfect location for sipping rich coffee and gorging
on apple strudel. QOpen 09:00 - 24:00. PAGBW
Vintage C-4, Staroyevreys’ka 25-27, Vintage Hotel, tel.
(+380) 32 235 68 34, www.vintagehotel.com.ua. Though
selective, the menu holds nothing back. Start with the spicy Thai
veal salad or Mediterranean salad with salmon and red caviar,
drown you taste buds in the seafood goulash soup or pot-au-feu,
then savour the Carpathian trout in an olive and caper sauce or
slurp down some pasta with your choice of the chef’s signature
sauces. Like the hotel, the restaurant is quaint but classy and
the hidden wine cellar is an absolute gem. With seating for up to
eight, it’s a perfect place to unwind and sample a select vintage
from the hotel’s collection. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. AGBW
Zamok Leva G-5, Glinky 7, tel. (+380) 32 238 61 16,
www.lioncastlehotel.com/en. Located in the basement of
Zamok Leva Hotel, the reasonable prices and large portions
justify the 20 minute walk from old town. The juicy Lion’s Castle
pork special, for example, is a whopping 450 grams and will
set you back a mere ten bucks. There’s enough variety on the
menu to appeal to just about everyone. Creamy soups, crêpes
and salmon dishes are particularly appealing. The breakfast
buffet is popular with hotel guests, so arrive early if you’re hoping to get a good seat. QOpen 08:00 - 22:00. PALG
Lviv In Your Pocket
Halytska
Kryjivka C-4, pl. Rynok 14, tel. (+380) 32 254 61 18/
(+380) 95 260 45 46, fax (+380) 322 54 61 18, www.
kryjivka.com.ua. When the uniformed guard opens the peephole to this theme café/restaurant and says “Slava Ukraini”
(Glory to Ukraine), that’s your cue to respond “Geroyam slava”
(Glory to its heroes). This was the greeting used by soldiers
of the Ukrainian Insurgent Army (UPA) as they waged guerrilla
war against the Nazis, Poles and Soviet Union from 1943-49.
It’s also your ticket past the guard. Once inside, you’ll find a
fascinating and jovial bunker complete with grenades, rifles
and other military antiques. Just as the UPA was immensely
popular in Lviv, so is this eatery dedicated to the memory of
their sacrifice. Tables can be scarce, so book ahead. Traditional Ukrainian dishes and spirits add to what is certain to be
a lasting memory of your visit to Lviv. QOpen 24hrs. AW
Restoratsiaya na Valoviy D-4, Valova 25, tel. (+380)
32 272 59 73. You can always tell how refined a restaurant
is by the number of forks set near the plate: this place had
four. The dining area is decorated with classic prints and
exciting original paintings by local artists. The chef‘s dedication to flavour, aroma and presentation is tremendous; go
with the understanding that quality takes time, and that all
available Galician and European dishes are well worth the
wait. The menu‘s highlights include one of the city‘s best
seafood selections, Hungarian style veal goulash and the
Lviv pie, which is so sophisticated it must be ordered 24hrs
in advance. Private celebrations can be booked for up to 40.
QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAUIEGS
Svitlytsia Leva B-3, Teatral‘na 16, tel. (+380) 32 295
95 15. Everything about the Leopolis Hotel is stunning and
superior, and the hotel‘s restaurant is no exception. Amazingly,
this could be the best value for hryvnia in town. In the west, when
we go out for a cream-of-the-crop experience we expect to pay
cream-of-the-crop prices; you‘ll be shocked at how affordable
this place really is. Highlights include a Carpathian meat kebab,
juicy mushroom risotto, rich lamb chops and a zesty sea bass.
Servers are well acquainted with western standards and speak
fluent English. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. PA6IEGSW
Italian
Valentino C-5, Ostapa Nyzhankivs‘koho 20, tel. (+380)
32 274 50 61, www.valentino.lviv.ua. Valentino fills in the
gaps left by many of Lviv‘s restaurants, i.e. the Italian chef has
put together a stunning menu of authentic favourites. Renown
for their extensive wine card, the classic atmosphere and
scrumptious cuisine make this an obvious choice for those
with Italian on their minds. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sat, Sun
07:00 - 02:00. PTAEGSW
La Piazza A-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 32 295
88 14. La Piazza pizza restaurant & espresso cafe has finally
opened on the top floor of the luxurious fashion gallery Opera
Passage. The restaurant is separated into three zones. The
first zone offers soups and pasta. In the second zone you will
find drinks and desserts. The third and the largest and perhaps
the best is the main area of the restaurant – the pizza zone.
This hall has an incredible panorama view of the city. The
whole menu fits on a two-sided leaflet that can be found in
abundance at each table. The cuisine is strictly Italian. Our
choice was soup of the day (it changes each day) for 12Hr. There
are salads, 17 types of pizza, 16 kinds of pasta, and delicious
desserts cooked from original recipes such as the traditional
Italian custard, Panna Cotta, There is also Tiramisu a popular
Italian cake and Italian Cheesecake. This is the next best thing
to eating in Italy! QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PGSW
Restaurants
Japaneese
Sushi Kappo-IN D-6, Levyts‘koho 8, tel. (+380) 32 245
31 09. Sushi Kappo‘s ultra-relaxing atmosphere literally put
me to sleep; the charming waitress had to startle me awake
in order to keep me from falling face first into the plate. The
previous night had been a wild one (as is often the case in
Lviv) and Kappo‘s zesty selection of sushi was just what
the doctor ordered. Located on the edge of centre, it‘s well
worth the 10 minute walk. QOpen 10:30 - 21:30, Sat, Sun
11:00 - 23:00. PLGS
Yapi B-4, Svobody prosp. 6/8, tel. (+380) 32 272 28
01, www.egoisty.com. The only English that appears on
Yapi‘s menu is their slogan, compliments of Bobby McFerrin, that reads „Don‘t worry be happy“. The menu‘s vivid
photos make language redundant: just point to whatever
looks good and the colourful friendly staff will take over. The
restaurant‘s interior resembles the stereotypical Japanese
café seen in films with glass tables suspended from cables,
glass chairs framed in steel and hints of neon. Inviting lunch
specials, an imaginative sushi selection and a unique array
of salads sets this sushi joint apart. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
PAGBS
Yapona Hata C-4, Staroyevreis‘ka 4, tel. (+380) 32
297 51 17, www.yaponahata.com. The name suggests
a Japanese take on the Ukrainian “khatas” that dominate the
country‘s low budget dining market. We were understandably
surprised by the relatively high prices, but (as we say in the
West) you get what you pay for. The location is exceptional
and the inventive sushi choices more than justify the blow to
your wallet. QOpen 24hrs. PAGBSW
Quick & Cheap
Acropolis С-3, Ploscha Rynok 44, tel. (+380) 67 463
09 06. This small gem was a great find. It is located on a
beautiful square in the centre of the old city. There are only 4
tables so we had to come back and take a chance at a later
time. We were glad we did! The menu is limited, but it’s real
“Greek Food” at very reasonable prices. We were told that
when the weather warms up, they put many tables outside
and then they add moussaka and other items to the menu.
A great place to eat or just have a drink and spend time with
your friends. QOpen 11:00 - 22:00. GBW
DeMandjaro C-4, Halyts’ka 10, tel. (+380) 32 297 01
71. The selection is quite impressive for a fast food joint.
Choose from pizzas, burgers, steaks, shashlyk, potatoes,
ice cream, cakes, etc. Items are listed in Ukrainian only, but
luckily for us words like “steak”, “burger” and “pizza” don’t
need a translation. Though popular with poor students and
budget minded families, the entrance and outdoor seating
area happens to be on Halyts’ka vul., one of Lviv’s most
classy and romantic streets. Also at C-4, Staroyevreis’ka
4; A-5, Doroshenka 19; prosp. Cher vonoi Kal yny 36.
QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PTAUVGBS
Hit-Café A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 7, tel. (+380) 32 261 67
88. Hit offers up familiar western favourites including pizza,
spaghetti and club sandwiches; tempting grill and meat
dishes like steaks and kebobs; and a splattering of traditional Ukrainian treats such as borsht and pickled herring
under a fur coat. It’s possible to satisfy your hunger for less
than 30Hr under an atmosphere a step up from the standard
fast food joint. Also at B-6, Johara Dudaeva 7, tel. (+380) 32
261 17 72; F-4, Kyivs’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 237 77 67; F-3,
Mytropolyta Andreya 8, tel. (+380) 32 237 77 21. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00, Sat 11:00 - 22:00, Sun 12:00 - 22:00.
PTA6B
Pizza
Celentano C-6, Kniazia Romana 7, tel. (+380) 32
235 56 84, www.pizza-celentano.com. This established pizzeria chain champions democracy by granting
patrons the choice of their own favourite toppings from
a wide range of possibilities. Various salads, crêpes with
different fillings and pasta dishes are also on offer. Do
the roof of your mouth a favour and let the extremely
hot pizza cool before consumption. Friendly service
and speedy delivery have become this in-and-out pizzeria‘s trademarks. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Also at B-5,
Kopernika 9; B-3, prosp. Svobody 24; A-5, Slovatskoho
16; Volodymyra Velykoho 123; Vyhovskoho 47a; E-3,
Horodotska 141. PGBS
New York Street Pizza A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 5,
tel. (+380) 32 272 27 57, www.pizza-nys.com.ua.
When I asked for onions on my pizza the server looked
at me as if I had a second head growing out of my ear.
„Onions on pizza? Don‘t be ridiculous.” I rescanned the
toppings list to make sure I wasn‘t the butt of a practical
joke. Indeed…no onions. You can top your pie with imitation
crab sticks and corn, but no onions. I settled for salami and
mushrooms and it turned out to be quite tasty. Though
“Ukrainian” Street Pizza would be a more fitting name,
this is a nice pick for those in a hurry and short of cash.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. Also at Tershakivtsiv 5; Volodymyra
Velykoho 5; Chervonoyi Kalyny 31; Patona 37; Stefanyka 4;
Henerala Chuprynky 36; Sviatoho Teodora 2. PGBS
Pizzeria La Grotta B-3, Krakivska 9, tel. (+380) 32
276 60 69. Stepping into La Grotta we almost thought we
were in Italy. Before our very eyes was a real Italian stone
pizza oven. The pizza was delicious and there is also a
wide range of traditional Ukrainian cuisine. The menu is
in English and the staff is very friendly and helpful. Very
reasonable prices. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGB
Kartopliana Khata D-5, Lychakivs’ka 4-6, tel. (+380)
32 242 05 26. This is a cowboy, Indian and Che Guevara
themed fast food joint where patrons can order a baked
potato served in small bowl and topped with scrumptious
titbits. Burritos, “spicy” wings, barbeque ribs and traditional salads are also on hand. A popular lunch spot, this
is a nice choice if you’re in a rush. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
PAGS
Punkt B-3, Shevs’ka 6/10, tel. (+380) 32 294 82
06. Punkt is a serve-yourself-and-save café just off Rynok
pl. A popular refuelling point for families making the tourist
rounds, all available items - crêpes, salads, desserts and
other morsels - are on display and ready to eat. The quiche
Lorraine with chicken will calm the grumble in any belly. The
adjacent mini-mall has a decent selection of tour books and
maps available in various languages. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00.
PABS
Puzata Khata A-4, Sichovykh Striltsiv 12, tel. (+380)
32 244 87 28, www.puzatakhata.kiev.ua. Albeit a lowbudget, family-friendly, á la carte eatery, Puzata Khata has a
knack for establishing itself in prime locations. This is true of
the Lviv restaurant sandwiched between Svobody prosp. and
Ivan Franko National University. All restaurants in this chain
offer a satisfying selection of traditional Ukrainian dishes. The
interiors are inventive and usually combine a 19th century
theme with a touch of local flare. Fill your gut for only a few
bucks! QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. Also at Horodotska 300 (open
08:00 - 22:00) PAIGS
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CAFés
Welcome to Ukraine’s coffee capital! Life for Lvivians
revolves around the café, and it’s no wonder that there is
an endless selection of establishments to choose from. Indeed, it’s theoretically possible to visit a different café everyday and never see the same place twice. No matter where
you end up, you’re sure to find a charming atmosphere, rich
aromatic coffee and a loaded menu. The city also boasts
a variety of must-visit theme cafés that brilliantly introduce
and preserve the city’s diverse history and culture. If you’re
a coffee lover, you’ve come to the right place. For those that
are indifferent, prepare to get hooked.
Alekstra C-6, Kniazia Romana 7, tel. (+380) 32 225 63
09. Alekstra is popular for its extensive mix of Ukrainian and
original fare, and the fresh baked cakes, cookies and original
sweets are coveted. This is a good choice if you’re looking
to unwind with a pot of tea or cup of coffee. The ambiance is
typical, as is the quiet outdoor seating, pop music and Fashion
TV. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PTUGB
Cabinet D-4, Vynnychenka 12, tel. (+380) 32 272 05 12.
Cabinet is the embodiment of Lviv’s coffee culture: laid-back,
intelligent and delicious. The defining feature is the quaint library,
which contains a small selection of works in English (mostly
guides and souvenir coffee table books). The coffee is distinctively rich and the offering of Ukrainian cuisine hearty. This is a
perfect pit-stop for those perusing the area’s numerous sites of
interest including the Arsenal Museum, the Dominican Cathedral
and the Assumption Church. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. AW
Café 1 C-4, Kathedral’na pl. 5, tel. (+380) 32 242 33 69.
The smell of fermented grapes is sure to perk your nostrils
as you enter this small but inviting café. The focus here is
wine, and the simple yet delectable dishes such as ravioli and
quiche Loraine compliment the full-bodied reds and delicate
whites. Ideally located in the heart of the old town, tables
can sometimes be hard to find, but any wait is well worth
it. Wonderful English speaking service is available. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. ALGB
Charivnyi Likhtar (Magic Lantern) C-4, Ivana Fe-
dorova 12, tel. (+380) 32 235 74 61, www.kawa.lviv.ua
/en. The establishment bears a part of ancient Lviv with a cozy
atmosphere. The name derives from a legend in the middle
ages. It is a Romeo and Juliet type of story with monks from the
cloister leading the young lovers with a lantern underground to
get married against the wishes of others. An important part of
the interior is the stylised lanterns and cobble stones. It’s an
outdoor cafe, but inside! The menu is in English and reasonably
priced. It includes an exquisite variety of more than 50 sorts
of the coffee made from original recipes, some with alcohol.
For tea lovers this is heaven, nearly 100 items to choose from.
There are more than 15 sorts of black tea, over 15 of green
tea. Desserts include cakes, ice cream, and chocolates in
abundance. QOpen 09:00 - 23:00. PUG
Lviv In Your Pocket
Coffee In Leopolis A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 9, tel. (+380)
32 297 50 61. With a great location and mellow mood, this
coffee house attracts a diverse crowd: gigly high school girls,
buttoned-down business types, mom and pop and even wannabe radicals all feel at home here. Choose from coffee and
beer cocktails, light snacks and rich desserts. The vanilla
cappuccino and steaming hot ham and cheese crêpes go
great with a cold day. Don’t forget the beans to go on your
way out the door. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PAEGBW
Cukiernia C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 3, tel. (+380) 32 274
09 49, www.cukiernia.com.ua. The menu opens with a
quote from an unknown author “...only the sweet eaters are
considered to be the most important members of society.”
Indeed, with a name like Cukiernia (sweet shop) you’re guaranteed to leave with a sugar buzz. They don’t miss a page
from babushka’s cookbook and bake up everything from
cakes and rolls to strudels, pastries and cookies. The tasty
selection of crêpes and the Viennese breakfast make this
a hotspot for brunch. Local kids swarm like ravenous bees
in the early afternoon for ice cream, sundaes and shakes.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. AS
Double Coffee C-5, Rudanskoho 1, tel. (+380) 322
74 22 48, www.doublecoffee.com. ua/eng. This popular Eastern European café chain catches your eye with its
wonderfully illustrated menu. The selection of coffee and
coffee cocktails is impressive as are the tempting dishes
and snacks: crêpes, sushi, soups, salads, pasta and
sweets. For something familiar and quick for breakfast,
try one of the delicious omelettes with crunchy toast.
QOpen 08:00 - 23:00.
Frantsishka B-3, Krakivs’ka 18, tel. (+380) 32 255 08
96. Frantsishka’s mellow atmosphere is perfect for washing
away the previous night’s regret(s). Milk cocktails and the
most extensive selection of tea in the city calm the upset
stomach and sooth thumping headaches. A small yet inviting
selection of cakes and sweets are on hand to compliment
the thick aromatic coffee. The only problem kicked in when
the chirpy overtly bright yellow canary began to serenade the
coffee grinder. Our initial impulse was to strangle them both,
but we quickly fell back into the calming mood and all was
well. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. UGBS
Freska B-3, Krakivs’ka 9, tel. (+380) 32 272 49 85. As
you take your seat the charming server will place on the table
a cute little bell that you can ring for service. Revered for their
classic Lviv-style coffee (rich and aromatic) and extensive tea
card, they’re even more renowned for their uniquely delectable
candies, cakes and chocolate fondue. The pleasant atmosphere and summer terrace perched on Krakivs’ka vul., a lively
pedestrian thoroughfare, make this a fine choice for indulging
in a local’s favourite pastime of lounging for hours on a café
stool. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PGB
cafés
Kvartyra 35 (Flat 35) C-3, Virmens’ka 35, tel. (+380)
32 297 56 12. This hipster hangout is located above Pid
Klepsydroyu café (you actually order off the same menu). The
feature that sets this snug loft apart is the live Jazz featured
just about every night. We arrived late Saturday afternoon and
a jazz pianist was already pounding the keys. Some locals had
smuggled in litres of beer in plastic bottles, but this is blatantly
unnecessary. The menu has everything you need and then
some. We had a cappuccino and a feri-fire (flaming rum doused
with an espresso) and did our best to blend with intellectuals,
artists and university kids trying hard not to fit in. Seating is
limited, but it’s worth waiting for a free table. Once settled,
you’re likely to discover swift and cheery service. QOpen 10:00
- 23:00. Admission 40Hr on Thursdays. PALEGSW
Gasova Lyampa C-3, Virmens’ka 20, tel. (+380) 32 235
75 50. To find this fascinating eatery, head up Virmens’ka until
you see the unmistakable bronze statue of a dude sitting next
to a lamp. This is Ignacy Łukasiewicz, founder of the Polish oil
industry and inventor of the kerosene lamp. The restaurant/
museum housed within is a tribute to the mark he left on history. (An interesting side note: Łukasiewicz was not a resident
of Lviv by choice, but was exiled here by Austrian authorities
wary of his membership in a Polish revolutionary organisation.)
The scene is always energised and the menu items, especially
the fish dishes, won’t leave you indifferent. This is yet another
great addition to the city’s captivating theme scene. QOpen
11:00 - 02:00. NS
Gloria Jean’s Coffees C-5, Mitskevicha pl. 1, tel.
(+380) 32 297 02 97, www.gloriajeanscoffees.com.
ua. Established over 30 years ago, Gloria Jean‘s Coffees has
become a global icon with stores in over 30 countries. Matt
Damon greeted us at the door! There is a very large screen
TV that confronts one at the entrance. They like to play recent
Hollywood films. The sound though is a lovely blend of music
played throughout the café. It is something that is actually
a pleasure to listen to! The menu is in English and the staff
makes a real effort to communicate in English as well. Wi-Fi
is available and something that is pretty rare in Ukraine, a
completely sealed off smoking area. No second hand smoking here. Tired of the plastic-cup swill served at the kiosk?
Gloria Jean‘s Coffees is famous for it‘s coffee-to-go! QOpen
09:00 - 24:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 01:00. PAGBXSW
Italiys’kyi Dvoryk (Italian Yard) C-3, Rynok pl. 6, tel.
(+380) 32 297 53 66. This romantic hotspot is located
within the Kornjakt Palace on Rynok ploshca (Market Square).
Lvivians, visitors to the palace’s museum and random
pedestrians are magnetically drawn to this open-air coffee
lover’s oasis. Completely severed from the complexities of the
outside world, the carved stone and shaded balconies reek
of Italian Renaissance. Mellow music, delectable fragrances
and stunning art and architecture make for a truly special
café experience. The coffee is rich and tasty. Throughout the
summer patrons beat the heat by sipping frosty beers, cool
cocktails and frothy milkshakes. If it all looks familiar, you’ve
probably seen this courtyard in one of the many local and
foreign films that shot scenes here. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Admission 1Hr. UEB
K`Kawa C-3, Valova 5, tel. (+380) 98 389 73 34, www.
kkawa.lviv.ua. It’s a very cute café with a very bright interior.
It is located in the old city and very easy to find. The design
seems to be that of the 1890’s. There is no English menu and
it was a struggle to get by. There is a wonderful selection of
Sandwiches, salads, and cakes. These are not just ordinary
snacks, but are all created from special Western Ukrainian
recipes. The prices are reasonable and a visit here won’t be
easily forgotten! QOpen 08:30 - 22:00. PAGB
Lviv’s Chocolate Workshop C-4, Serbs’ka 3, tel.
(+380) 50 430 60 33, www.chocolate.lviv.ua. This lovely
chocolate shop is easy to find as there is always a crowd looking through the window and gathering at the small sales stall
on this quaint walking street in the heart of the old city. Legend
has it that Chocolate from Liviv was well known from the middle
ages. In the 19th century, chocolate was exported from Liviv
to aristocracy throughout Europe. There is a small café at the
entrance where there are many flavours of hot chocolate and
coffee to choose form. All the chocolate candies made here can
be sampled before you go to the shop. Milkshakes, ice cream,
cakes and snacks are awaiting you as well. Also on the ground
floor, one can view the actual workshop where these delicacies
are made. We saw a group of school children on a tour, complete
with protective clothing, gloves and head gear actually making
their own chocolate! Souvenirs and toys are made of chocolate
and purchases can be shipped from here world-wide. This is
truly a unique experience and a must for chocolate lovers of all
ages! QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. PAGBSW
Mapa C-4, Halyts’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 272 55 69, www.
mapa.lviv.ua. This a logical launching point for your romp around
Lviv. Not only do they offer tasty treats and desserts, you can also
order maps, atlases and sightseeing booklets in Ukrainian, Polish
and English. Plan your day while sipping coffee or tea in the comfy
interior or on the trendy veranda. Service is friendly and in English.
The cakes are flavourful but don’t be fooled by their recognisable names, i.e. the “tiramisu” is actually chocolate cake with a
cream cheese filling. QOpen 08:00 - 23:00. PTAGBW
Masoch Café C-4, Serbs’ka 7, tel. (+380) 32 272 18
72, www.masoch-cafe.com.ua. This titillating theme café/
restaurant is dedicated to writer and original freak Leopold
Ritter von Sacher-Masoch who was born in Lviv in 1836.
Masoch enjoyed playing the role of the slave and insisted that
his dominatrixes wear furs. In fact, the word masochism was
coined from his name. The menu, which can be purchased as a
souvenir (in Ukrainian only), is loaded with fabulous and unusual
dishes. If your husband is having difficulties deciding on a meal,
he’s probably too distracted by the pornography that appears
on the menu and you should order for him. He’s sure to appreciate the bull’s testicles in an oil and sweet pepper sauce. They
boast the best fondue in town and the waitresses will handcuff
and whip you free of charge. On your way out the door, don’t
forget to reach into Leopold’s pocket for this café’s version
of a fortune cookie. QOpen 11:00 - 01:00. PABSW
Na Bambetli C-4, Rynok pl. 29, tel. (+380) 32 235 45 44,
www.nabambetli.com. A cosy café located in the former Andriolli passage where according to local history, the first confectioner’s shop in Lviv was opened. There is no English menu and
a Ukrainian speaking companion is advised unless you are ok
with hand signals. It has a somewhat French design with special
lighting that gives it a romantic atmosphere. There is a good selection of coffee, chocolate, ice cream, and beer. There are also
some sandwiches available. The music being played while we
Spring 2011
27
28
cafés
were there was actually enjoyable as were the prices. Discounts
are available for groups.QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PGW
Pid Klepsydroyu D-3, Virmens’ka 35, tel. (+380) 32
297 56 12, www.dzyga.com. This trendy café is located
where the sidewalk ends on Virmens’ka vul. We went on a Friday night and had to wait 20 minutes for a table. The main hall
and upstairs seating are cosy and buzz with animated banter.
In contrast, the outdoor seating offers a tranquil vantage
point for watching sunsets through the narrow crag created
by the inspiring architecture that lines Virmens’ka. The menu
is brief but inviting; for a taste found nowhere else on earth,
try the pig fat in chocolate. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. GBW
Pid Synioiu Pliashkoiu C-4, Rus’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32
and Fashion TV. This is also one of the more spacious coffee
shops you’ll find in centre. Place your order at the counter
and divchina (girl-waitress) will bring your order to the table.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PUG
Virmenka C-3, Virmens’ka 19, tel. (+380) 322 97 56
37. At Virmenka you’re not going to get tableside service,
nor service in English. However, if you’re bold enough to approach the burly woman scowling from behind the counter
and say “coffee, budlaska (please)”, you will get an exquisite
espresso, the kind that coats the bottom of the cup with a
heavy aromatic sludge. The spinning box on the counter is
the menu, but everything worth having is in plain view (wine,
tea, beer, cakes, etc.). QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. AG
294 91 53. Through an alleyway, under a staircase and
beyond a decrepit yard you’ll find a hidden coffee house where
everything seems to be slowly caving in on itself. (If you’re
looking for sparkly, new and trendy keep walking.) Though they
welcome outsiders, everthing is geared for locals. However,
the service and coffee are first-rate and the atmosphere is
one of a kind. We noticed that most of the food items were
being warmed up in the microwave: stick to coffee or beer,
enjoy the ambiance and then get out before the whole place
turns to ruble. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00.
Zoloto Polubotka B-4, Svobody prosp. 25, tel. (+380)
32 255 00 42. Tucked away in a quiet courtyard just off
Svobody prosp., this cosy café’s most notable aspect is
its quite reasonable prices. Flipping through the menu, our
Ukrainian colleague mumbled, “A typical mix of Ukrainian
and who knows what.” She must have been referring to the
“shrimp under mayonnaise.” It’s definitely worth popping in if
you need a break from the crowds and/or are in the mood for
something from their affordable selection of coffee and coffee
cocktails. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. PTGBS
Praga Café (Prague) A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel.
Zolotyi Dukat C-4, Ivana Fedorova 20, tel. (+380)
322 98 62 33. This cavernous café with its spooky mood
lies beneath I. Fedorova vul. Mirrors on the ceiling and a
mesmerizing relief model of historic Lviv add to the intrigue.
Seating is limited, and there are even fewer menus. Once we
got our hands on a menu, we were disappointed to find that
it is written in Ukrainian in ancient looking cursive. Despite
the dim lighting and bad eyes, we finally managed to make
out the word “coffee” and everything turned out for the best.
QOpen 10:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 11:00 - 22:00. P
(+380) 32 274 12 20, www.praga.lviv.ua. The twisted
ornamental steel is a nice touch of Art Nouveau, the coffee
is loaded and the aroma of fresh cakes and sweats gnaws at
the belly. Despite not having a menu in English (coming soon),
this has become a popular expat hang-out. The service is
exceptional and the atmosphere is smart and inviting QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. PAEGBSW
Sonata C-4, Valova 13, tel. (+380) 32 274 42 29. If So-
nata doesn’t already have a motto they should consider: great
prices and friendly ambiance! The aroma of roasting Krakow
pork fills this quaint two level café. The soups are scrumptious, the salads are tasty and their vareniky (Ukrainian-style
dumplings) is top notch. The popular outdoor seating is located
across from the café at Halyts’ka pl. and offers a close up view
of King Danilo’s horse’s ass. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00.
Stari Mury C-4, Serbs’ka 5, tel. (+380) 32 236 71 77.
Sandwiched between a chocolate shop and a café honouring
the original masochist, Stary Mury offers titillating indulgences
of its own: fine tea and exotic coffee. With exceptional greens
and whites from China and Japan, and rich blacks from India
and Arabia, tea lovers are in luck. The laidback atmosphere
and coffee from the all edges of the earth are also inviting.
The desserts, snacks, wine and cognac are priced just right,
and soul warming glintwine is available when the temperature
dips near zero. QOpen 09:00 - 22:00. PG
Svit Kavy C-4, pl. Katedralna 6, tel. (+380) 32 297 56
75/(+380) 95 523 13 18, fax (+380) 32 272 72 83. An
ideal location, limited space and great coffee mean that you
might have to wait for a table. The café is actually divided into
two sections that have separate entrances next door to each
other, so if one place is full hop over to the other. The smaller
room sells beans to go and displays an interesting array of
antique grinders and other coffee paraphernalia. The fact that
the place is tightly packed intensifies the awesome aromas. A
small yet delicious selection of cakes and treats is also available.
QOpen 08:00 - 22:00, Sat, Sun 09:00 - 23:00. PGBS
Zolotyi Vepr C-4, pl. Rynok 17, tel. (+380) 32 272 67 94.
Located in the basement of the historic Vening’s House, the
décor harkens back to the building’s Gothic roots. The menu
offers a hearty selection of tasty Ukrainian morsels. They have
a great selection of veal and pork dishes, homemade sausages
and enticing oddities such as tongue and brains. We tried the
pork in beer, which turned out to be a nice treat - both filling
and refreshing. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. GW
Ч/Б 5х5 (Black and White 5x5) D-4, Koliivschyny
pl. 2, tel. (+380) 68 505 85 99. In spite of its name, this
café/photo club left a colourful impression. Appetisers and
treats constitute the majority of the tasty, albeit small, array of dishes; the most popular being the koshiki, pastry
bowls filled with a variety meat and veggies. We nibbled on
our flaky bowls and watched an illuminating slide show by
photographer Alexandr Petrosian, whose work beautifully
captures the insane duality found in Russia and Ukraine.
QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. IG
Valente C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 27, tel. (+380) 322 94
87 15. The tiramisu, Praga cake and euphoria cake are all
unrelentingly gorgeous. The laid back atmosphere provides
the perfect compliment for the frothy cappuccino. Indeed,
this is a fine choice if you just want to unwind with pleasant
conversation, i.e. you won’t be bombarded with dance music
Lviv In Your Pocket
Nightlife
Bars & Pubs
1000+1 Night A-4, Kryva Lypa prov. 6, tel. (+380) 32
272 25 01. Imagine chilling in a Bedouin’s tent, a fragrant
haze from the hookah hangs like cobwebs from the ceiling
as a seductive belly dancer floats about the room. Welcome
to 1001 + 1 Nights. Choose from three private rooms (25Hr
for two hours) or enjoy the lively general hall. The menu is
highlighted by eastern and Middle Eastern favourites and
specialty desserts. Tea ceremonies are popular as is the
Lebanese coffee. A meagre 70Hr per hour will keep the party
going after last call (23:00), and you can arrange a private
belly dance for 150Hr. Discounts are available for returning
customers, ask your charming English speaking server for
details. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00. PAGW
new
4friends C-6, Jokhara Dudayeva 2, tel. (+380) 32 225
65 54, www.4friends.com.ua. Truly what the Doors had
in mind in the song “Show me the way to the next whiskey
bar.” Opened early 2011, 4Friends has every brand of well
known whiskey from Scotland, Ireland, Canada, and the USA;
and then some. Wild Turkey is on its way and we saw the
first English menu. There snacks and a limited menu with
reasonable prices. It’s not very large with capacity for around
30-40, but very popular. Very close to the city centre. QOpen
10:00 - 23:00. PXW
Archive Pub A-3, Furmans’ka 6, tel. (+380) 32 225 58 86.
Archive is Lviv’s version of your friendly neighbourhood pub. It’s
not uncommon to see whole families converge for lunch at the
weekend: dads gulp beers, moms gossip and kids frolic under
tables. Evening ushers in a new crowd, but the mood remains
relaxed even when local football matches are shown. Don’t leave
without trying one of their signature beer cocktails: beer and
Fanta is a Ukrainian classic, but the Devil’s Brew (beer, cognac,
salt, pepper and lemon) and the Island Paradise (beer, vodka,
Malibu, gin and pineapple juice) are sure to leave an unforgettable impression. If you can still talk after downing one of these
unique concoctions, order from a menu full of munchies, soups,
salads, steaks and desserts. It can be hit and miss with the food
- the soup was scrumptious, but the wings were salty enough
to kill a horse. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PAGSW
Beer Garden I-4, Ivana Franka 29, tel. (+380) 32 276
21 76. This eatery/beer house can be a bit tricky to find.
One might expect that with an even number address (26) the
establishment would be located on the even number side of
the street - not the case. When you reach 28 Ivana Franka
look across the street and you’ve arrived. A popular local’s
hang, the offering of brew bursts at the keg welds compared
to the scant selection of Ukrainian fare. However, flavour
swirls up from the grill, fills the halls and rushes through the
open courtyard tying knots of anticipation in the guts of eager
patrons. The wings, ribs and shashlik are all worthy of mention. QOpen 11:00 - 23:00. PILGBS
Editor’s tip
Lviv‘s clubs attract a diverse crowd, and you should be
able to blend in quite easily. The great thing about partying
in Eastern Europe is that the locals are arguably more
awkward on the dance floor than we are in the west, so
shrug off you inhibitions and convulse to the beat. Warning:
Locals are overtly friendly and often invite foreigners to
party at their table. We‘ve learned from repeated experience that it‘s impossible for a westerner to keep pace with
locals when it comes to shooting horilka (vodka). Slow and
steady wins the horilka race.
Spring 2011
29
30
Nightlife
Black Cat G-4, Hvardiys’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 244 42
40. Black Cat is an English pub specialising in wood-fired
pizzas, many of which are topped with corn. Welcome to
Ukraine, where up is down and it’s always inside out. Don’t
be turned off, however, as the dishes are quite impressive.
The leafy salads and steamed salmon with veggies are a
welcome break from Lviv’s greasy norm. The atmosphere
is genuine and the service is courteous. If you happen to
be staying at Zamok Leva, this is a fine pit stop half way
up the hill. Live jazz starts up nightly at 18:30 and banquets can be booked for up to 50. QOpen 10:00 - 23:00.
PAEGBXS
Dublin A-4, prov. Kryva Lypa 5, tel. (+380) 32 272 88 74,
www.dublin.com.ua. Dublin is known as “The true Irish pub”.
It is slightly hidden in an alley way, very close to the city centre
known as “The crooked Linden lane”. We arrived early on a
Saturday night and the place was already filled. There were
several TV screens and a few people were actually watching
the game. Most people were just enjoying their friends and the
beer. The pub offers a wide choice of fresh draught beer and
whiskey. They have a specialty, Dublin beer - what they call
“live beer” made in Ukraine (24Hr a pint). There are two halls
ground level for 45-50 guests, and downstairs seating 20-22
guests. There is also a terrace outside, weather permitting.
There is a great menu with Irish type pub grub and steaks
guaranteed to make your mouth water! During weekdays there
is a business lunch for only 50Hr. QOpen 12:00 - 24:00, Thu,
Fri, Sat 12:00 - 02:00. GB
Korzo Pub C-4, Brativ Rohatyntsiv 10, tel. (+380) 32
225 70 92. This Lvivian version of the neighbourhood pub
will definitely raise your spirits and inspire fond memories
of back home. There’s always a game playing on the LCDs;
however, cheers of the winning goal are likely to be drowned
out by the lively chatter. Paulaner, Murphy’s and Pilsner Urquell
are available on tap. The menu offers everything from tasty
beer snacks to satisfying Ukrainian and international meals.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PE
Piano Bar B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 32 272
76 65. Piano Bar has an elegant café appeal and is an
excellent venue for those looking to escape with a cup of
Lviv-style coffee or a cocktail. Located at the Grand Hotel,
the service standards are intently tuned to the needs of the
foreign traveller. The menu is simple, but familiar and includes
canapé with caviar, chicken sandwiches, hamburgers and fish
selection for beer. The dessert selection is stunning and is
highlighted by Grand’s own secret recipe chocolate cake.
Despite the elegant ambiance, prices are quite reasonable.
QOpen 24hrs. PALEW
Praga Pub A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. (+380) 32
274 12 20, www.praga.lviv.ua. Czechs drink more beer per
capita than anyone on the planet. That being said, they expect
only the best from their breweries and Praga Lviv taps into this
tradition by serving fresh from the source Budvar, Krušovice
and other classic Czech brews. The pub is located in the
basement of the Praga complex, which includes a restaurant
and café on the ground floor. Its welcoming neighbourhood appeal and occasional boisterous crowds make this an enticing
venue for meeting-up, winding-down or viewing a big game.
QOpen 11:00 - 24:00. PAEGBSW
Rumba Bar C-4, Staroyevreis’ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 235
70 62. Located in the heart of Old Town, Rumba offers two
inviting and contrasting atmospheres. Upstairs it’s dance,
house music and Fashion TV. The basement is mellower and
stages live music every Saturday and Sunday (usually a guy
Lviv In Your Pocket
Nightlife
playing a keyboard, singing his heart out). A hefty selection
of imports is on tap. Have the barman slice you off a hunk of
the specialty pork leg jerky, you’ll be hooked. The dishes are
quite possibly the most inventive in town. For example, the
Mykhaylivska plate is stuffed chicken wings, pork ribs and
homemade sausages and the very confused Rafter’s Dinner
is a schnitzel in a potato cake with Mexican homemade vodka.
QOpen 12:00 - 24:00. PAIEGBSW
Clubs
Fenomen Zelena 186, tel. (+380) 32 270 55 58/
(+380) 93 077 57 77, www.fenomenclub.com. The
fact that this club is located on the edge of the city hasn’t
deterred the throngs of local hipsters that routinely pack
this place on weekends. Face control is relatively strict; it’s
better to be over than underdressed, and the average age
is just under thirty. The club has three zones: chill with a
hookah in the “Magic Room, house spins in the “Main Floor”
and there are no surprises in the “RnB Café”. In English, the
menu leaves nothing to chance and offers an array of tasty
salads, sandwiches, onion rings - everything you need to
quell the munchies. Tables can be reserved for 200-800Hr
depending on the zone and size of your party. (Marshrutka
No. 94, which makes stops on Svobody prosp., will drop you
50 metres from the club’s entrance.) QOpen 21:00 - 06:00.
PALGBW
Gallery B-3, Svobody prosp. 16-18, tel. (+380) 32 272
39 39, www.galleryclub.info. Gallery is an entertaining
blend of trends and cultures; classic and hi-tech; glam, R’n’B
and disco. Refined French cuisine and excellent service ensure
that the house is lively and diverse. Locals have designated
this club their unofficial hookah hangout, and a mix of exclusive
aromas is omnipresent. Also, Gallery has been known to
put on intriguing events, i.e. “Night on Spiked Heels” was a
titillating fest where ladies who dressed in provocative attire
were ushered in free of charge. QOpen 10:00 - 06:00, Sun
11:00 - 06:00. PALK
Kult Club B-5, Chaikovs’koho 7, tel. (+380) 32 242 22
42, www.kult.lviv.ua. Kult is a tribute Lviv’s icons past and
present. A wall of fame wraps completely round the main hall.
Though you may only recognise a couple faces like pop star
Ruslana or former Arsenal defender Oleg Luzhny, the charismatic ambiance is unforgettable. Prices on Ukrainian and
European fare are reasonable; however, many items are priced
per 100 grams, so ask the server the approximate size of the
dish in order to avoid confusion. Kult is perhaps best known
for the live music (mostly jazz and blues) that is staged nightly
from 21:00. QOpen 12:00 - 02:00. PAIEGSW
Lerroy Country Club E-4, Heroiv UPA 80, tel. (+380)
32 239 31 60. This is not a country club in the traditional
sense, i.e. there’s no golf course or swimming pool. Lerroy
is actually a club with a country western theme - at least
when it comes to the décor. On the night we were there,
the DJ was playing a medley of 80s Russian rock ballads.
Most of the action takes place on and around the dance
floor, but there’s also plenty to do in the cocktail lounge and
the hushed hookah bar. The kitchen offers a splattering of
local soups and salads, and the specialty is the Argentine
steak. Entertainment programmes, including the occasional
striptease, are held every Saturday. The club enforces the
following dress code: Sneakers and sweatpants are prohibited, but leopard skin spandex and cleavage lifting blouses
are encouraged. The average age is mid-thirties, and tables
can be reserved for 50Hr. QOpen 22:00 - 05:00. Closed
Mon, Tue. PLGB
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Nightlife
Metro I-4, Zelena 14, tel. (+380) 32 242 07 88, www.
metroclub.com.ua. Those who think that there’s no metro
in Lviv couldn’t be more mistaken. So what if it won’t transport
you around the city, Metro is one of Lviv’s most popular clubs.
Progressive and cutting edge, the Red Phone hall spins Euro Hit
Parade and the impressive dance floor is usually packed with
a diverse group of partiers, expats included. QOpen 19:00 06:00. Admission 20Hr for girls, 30Hr for boys. PESW
Picasso J-5, Zelena 88, tel. (+380) 32 275 32 72, www.
picasso.lviv.ua. By day, Picasso is a popular café known for its
flavourful coffee and tasty treats. By night, it metamorphoses
into one of Lviv’s most vibrant and popular clubs. Concerts,
retro parties and performances by top DJs fill an eclectic calendar. Face control is the rule: ditch the dirty trousers and comb
your hair you filthy degenerate! The last Sunday of the month
is Latin night. Book a table Friday and Saturday for a meagre
30Hr. QOpen 22:00 - 04:00. Closed Thu. PIEBW
Pozitiff Lounge I-4, Zelena 14, tel. (+380) 63 777 12
22, www.pozitiff.ae. There’s no room for negative vibes
at Pozitiff, and an upbeat mood is guaranteed. Throughout
the day and into the early evening, the club adorns the guise
of an inviting café where patrons sip coffee, hammer out
business deals or feast on lip-smacking lunches. At 20:00,
this deceptive mask is stripped away, and the club flaunts its
true colours. The set schedule is as follows: Thursday - R’n’B
Party, Friday - Electro Day, Saturday - Hause Empire. QOpen
00:00 - 24:00. PAEBSW
Rafinad People B-5, Rudans’koho 1, tel. (+380) 32 261
61 68, www.rafinad-club.com. Rafinad brings a touch of
class previously missing in Lviv’s club scene. You’ll need to pass
a fairly strict face control: worn-out jeans and sneakers won’t
get you through the door. Service standards, the cuisine and
even the music are tuned to European tastes. The club itself is
spacious, but the tight dance floor ensures there will be plenty
of grinding. The DJs, live music and performers are professional
and always entertaining. Other attractions include two VIP
rooms and a cigar hall. QOpen 24 hrs. PALEGW
Lviv In Your Pocket
Split Club Lviv B-5, pl. Mickiewicza 6/7, tel. (+380)
32 242 22 00, www.split.lviv.ua. Split is a one-stopshop for all your dining, drinking and entertainment needs.
The Irish pub blends with a stylish restaurant that serves
Ukrainian, European and Japanese cuisine. The restaurant
also features a private dining room where an itamae whips
up inventive sushi dishes for up to eight. In the casino,
gamblers can try their luck at slots, roulette, Black Jack
and six types of poker including Texas hold ‘em. Drinks are
complimentary in the VIP hall. Split’s strip club is renowned
for its incredibly talented dancers and is open from 22:00 04:00. The club’s specialty is the aqua show, in which the
dancer takes a shower! Private, lap and table dances are
also available. A 50Hr admission applies for the strip club.
QOpen 24hrs. PTAILEGSW
Cigar House
Fortuna De Luxe I-4, Hrushevs‘koho 12, tel.
(+380) 32 260 20 25. This is not your ordinary smoke
shop. As you enter, you‘re bound to be impressed by
the extensive selection of pipes, hookahs and other
paraphernalia. But don‘t let this distract you from your
ultimate goal of finding the perfect smoke. Proceed
down the small corridor leading to the smoking lounges.
To your right you‘ll find Lviv‘s Holy Smoking Grail: Fortuna‘s humidor. From Gurkha Special Edition Limited
Estate Reserves, to Auroras and Monte Cristos (Arnold
Schwarzenegger‘s signature smoke) this is easily the
city‘s finest cache of cigars. You don‘t need to be an
oligarch to enjoy this club, however. The general hall is
open to all, and you can order a stogy for as little as 22Hr.
You‘re out of luck if you‘re hoping for a snifter of cognac
to enhance the experience. Fortuna sells tobacco only.
Discount programmes are available; ask the gracious
staff for details. QOpen 10:00 - 22:00. A
What to see
Lviv’s old town is so densely packed with mesmerizing,
inspiring and unique attractions that travellers often become paralysed with fascination and never leave. Known
as the centre of Ukrainian art and culture, the city boasts
many of the country’s brightest and best museums, art
galleries and theatres. The uncommonly preserved Renaissance architecture, gently bending streets and hidden
ancient niches are sure to propel your mind through a
vivid collage of centuries gone by.
Essential Lviv
Arsenal D-4, Pidval‘na 5, tel. (+380) 322 72 70 60.
The city arsenal and its adjoining defensive walls are visible
from Arsenal vul. Construction on the original two-storied
stone building began in the 14th century, but was not
completed until 1555. After nearly two centuries of toil this
original structure was completely destroyed by fire after
only 16 years of operation, and the contemporary building was constructed in its place from 1574-75. When the
Swedes invaded in 1704 the arsenal took a beating, but all
holes were patched within two years. In the 18th and 19th
centuries the arsenal was refortified and lost some of its
original form. Most recently, two of the upper floors were
restored and now house a museum. Parts of the exterior
have been excavated in order to reveal original walls, windows and roof. The distinctive defensive trench has been
also been preserved. Throughout its working history the
arsenal served as Lviv‘s defensive backbone. A smeltinghouse was located next to the arsenal and cast weapons
for storage and for sale. The swords forged in Lviv gained
the reputation as some of the best in Europe. In the 18th
Century the arsenal was also used as a prison. It was here
that Polish authorities imprisoned haydamaks, Ukrainian
peasant rebels resisting Polish tyranny.
Black Stone House (Chorna Kamianytsia) C-3,
pl. Rynok 4. This exceptional architectural monument of
the 16th-17th centuries is matchless not only in Lviv, but in
the whole of Europe. Construction on this alluring structure
began in 1588 and incorporated locally mined, vibrant grey
sandstone. The imposing black colour is a product of longterm absorption by the stone of dust, dirt and smoke that
swirled about the market (coal was used to heat homes
until the 1960s). The name Black Stone House didn‘t always
apply, it was previously known as Kyiv Stone House and
Doctor‘s Stone House. In 1926 the building was bought
by the city and a branch of Lviv‘s historical museum was
soon established.
City Hall (Ratusha) C-4, pl. Rynok 1. The first city hall
was established on Rynok ploscha (Market Square) in the
middle of the 14th century. Constructed of wood, it was levelled by fire in 1381. A new hall was erected in the early 15th
century. The contemporary building is a conglomeration of
the 15th century structure and three major expansions. The
stone tower that hovers above the hall is the second of its
kind. The original was erected in 1619, but by the beginning
of the 19th century was deemed unstable and demolished.
The 65 meter high replacement is a replica of the original.
Pace yourselves, it‘s 306 steps up to the viewing platform.
In 2008 a local pornographer boldly used City Hall‘s roof
as a backdrop for photos, which were splashed all over the
Internet. This embarrassment led local authorities to implement stricter security measures including the installation
of surveillance cameras. Smile… you‘re being watched by a
Ukrainian security cop.
Italian Yard (Italiys‘kyi dvoryk) C-3, Rynok 6, tel.
(+380) 322 74 33 04. This romantic hotspot is located
within the Kornjakt Palace on Rynok pl. Lvivians, visitors to
the palace‘s museum and random pedestrians are magnetically drawn to this open-air coffee lover‘s oasis. Completely
severed from the complexities outside, the carved stone and
shaded balconies reek of Italian Renaissance. The mellow
music and delectable fragrances make for a truly special
café experience. If it all looks familiar, you‘ve probably seen
the courtyard one of the many local and foreign films that
shot scenes here. Concerts are occasionally staged here;
the courtyard is known for its uncanny acoustic resonance.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 1Hr, students
and senior citizen 0,5Hr.
King Jan III Sobieski Palace (Palats Kornjakta) C-3,
pl. Rynok 6. This is a unique monument of the Renaissance
period, one of only a few existing in Ukraine, and is the largest
structure on Rynok pl. Until the late 16th century the area on
which the palace stands was occupied by two smaller buildings,
which were purchased by a Greek merchant named Constantine Kornjakt. He subsequently ordered the reconstruction
of the two houses into a new grandiose edifice. Fragments
of the older structures have been preserved and include the
Gothic hall (an unmatched sample of Lviv‘s Gothic influence)
and the cross-sectional support beams that hold the third floor
ceiling. Following Kornjakt‘s death, the house was taken over
Jakub Sobieski, the father of the future Polish king Jan III. From
this time on the house served as a royal roost. In 1634 the
residence was occupied for a short time by Wladyslaw IV, the
Polish conqueror who occupied Moscow and seized the Russian crown.The Polish-Russian Eternal Peace Treaty (anything
with a name this lofty deserves to fail) was signed at the palace
in 1686. Since 1908 the building has housed a museum. One
of the brightest expositions of any of the city‘s museums, the
Royal Chambers, can be found here. The palace‘s Italian Yard
is a Lvivian favourite and is not to be missed.
Market Square (Ploscha Rynok) C-3/4, . Time and
Black Stone House
space gush through old town‘s veins and swirl ‘round Rynok
ploscha: a cobbled whirlpool of colour and sound. With its
stunning palaces, fountains, statues, crowds, cafés and
pack of lethargic stray dogs Rynok Square is the heart of this
magnificent city. Throughout the Middle Ages stone weights
and balances clanked with each sale, livestock pleaded and
villains writhed in pain at the punishment stake. Amazingly,
within this relatively small area there are 45 protected architectural monuments. Each structure has its own captivating
history, but the oldest and most commonly wowed-about are
Chorna Kamianytsa (Black Stone House) and Kornjakt Palace
(also called King Jan III Sobieski Palace). Regardless the era,
the government has always kept a keen eye on the square.
The imposing structure in the middle is City Hall
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What to see
Rus‘ka Street C/D-4, . Rus‘ka vul. has been an established
History in Stone
thoroughfare since the Middle Ages. Connecting Rynok ploscha
(Market Square) with Pidval‘na vul. (Rampart Street), the street
is so narrow that only one street car can travel at a time.
Blending a fascinating array of architectural styles, Rus‘ka is
one of the most striking streets in the old city. For centuries this
remained Lviv‘s centre of Orthodox Christianity. During Polish
rule, this was the only street where an Orthodox believer was
allowed to own real estate. From Rus‘ka there was a passage to
an old Jewish ghetto. Residents constructed walls and a gate,
which was secured at night in order to protect from pogroms. If
there‘s a building that stands out it‘s No. 4. Constructed in the
16th century, an old-Austrian style café called Synia Pliashka
sits in the court yard and the building itself is currently occupied
by the Gerdan Art Gallery.
The Opera House A-2, Svobody prosp. 28, tel. (+380)
Ivan Franko Tomb
Arriving in a city for the first time, most sane travellers don’t
head straight for the local cemetery. But Lviv is unique in
many ways, and one of the city’s most distinctive, beautiful
and historic locales is the Lychakivs’ke Cemetery. Believe
it or not, this is an ideal location to begin your exploration
of Lviv’s diverse history, fascinating culture and stunning
art: what Père Lachaise is to Paris, Lychakivs’ke is to Lviv.
Officially established in 1786 by Austro-Hungarian authorities, the first burials actually took place in the 16th century.
Since then, more than 400,000 inhabitants have been laid
to rest beneath these hallowed and enigmatic grounds.
Grave markers hold mournful tributes inscribed in Ukrainian,
Russian, German, Polish, Armenian and Latin - evidence
of the city’s diversity and turbulent past. Throughout the
19th century, plots were reserved by elite and middleclass
families, artisans, scientists, spiritual leaders and politicians. For obvious reasons, this trend shifted during the
Soviet era, and resulted in a fascinating contrast: wedged
between ancient chapels and elite family crypts stand
simple monuments, tributes to departed communists.
Communal graves of soldiers and freedom fighters can
also be found. The most renowned is the grave of the
Lwów Eaglets. The Eaglets were Polish child soldiers who
defended Lviv during the Polish-Ukrainian War (1918-1919).
Lviv was ultimately seized by the Soviet Union in 1939; the
grave was desecrated and turned into a dump in 1971.
Despite opposition by Ukrainian nationalists, the site was
restored and reopened in 2005. Lychakivs’ke is a protected
historical monument. This is a much deserved designation,
as it rivals many of Europe’s ancient necropolises in not
only size, but in the beauty of its sculptures. Visitors are
often stopped in their tracks by the remarkable statue of
an angle gazing sadly towards heaven. Grief, strength and
sacrifice are the dominant themes represented in these
gripping monuments. Plan on spending at least a few hours
if you hope to see them all, and for those with time limitations the sculptures located at the graves of Armenian
Archbishop Samuel Stefanowicz, Dr. Józef Torosewicz and
actress Regina Markovsky (Sleeping Beauty) are not to
be missed.
Lychakiv Cemetery (Lychakivs‘kyi Tsvyntar) K-4.
Lviv In Your Pocket
322 72 88 60, www.lvivopera.org. Many European theatres
can boast an extraordinary construction history, but Lviv‘s opera
house is unique in that it is built on top of a river. The Poltva
River flows beneath the stage and continues through centre
deep beneath the asphalt (no doubt a contributor to the many
sinkholes that tend to startle foreign visitors). By the end of the
19th century Lviv was a bourgeoning city eager for a Europeanclass theatre. The project was put up for tender and many top
European architects tossed in their bids. It was Polish architect
Zygmunt Gorgolewski - designer of Kaiser Wilhelm Bridge in
Berlin, the Gemäldegalerie in Dresden and the Vienna State
Opera - who proposed the radical and intriguing idea of burying
the small river beneath the opera. His plans also included the
use of a concrete foundation, a first for Europe. With optimistic
trepidation, the city planners agreed and the Opera House was
completed in 1900. The building began to sink right away, but
settled in the decades that followed. It is believed that knowledge of this flaw led to Gorgolewski‘s depression, legendary
suicide attempt and eventual death of heart disease.The official
opening performances included a ballet, opera-drama and a
comedy. The most fitting of the three was the opera entitled
“Janek”. Written by Władysław Żeleński, it detailed the lives of
Carpathian mountain-dwellers. The contemporary professionals
that call the Opera House home include a 90-piece symphonic
orchestra, more than 40 world-class opera soloists, a choir
and a ballet troupe. The structure‘s stunning main façade is
widely recognized and appears on the city‘s emblem and is also
displayed on the 20Hr note. Matinees usually begin at 11:00
and evening performances at 18:00.
Churches & Cathedrals
St. George Cathedral (Sobor Sviatoho Yura) G-3, pl.
Svyatoho Yura 5. This Greek Catholic cathedral, constructed
in 1744-1761, is a remarkable example of Rococo architecture.
Located at the height of St. George Mount, the cathedral
dominates the surrounding area, but doesn‘t clash with the
landscape. The main façade is set-off by a portal watched over
by St. Athanasius and St. Leo (works by renowned sculptor
Johann Georg Pinzel). In the cathedral itself, there lies a crypt
where celebrated figures of the Ukrainian church are entombed.
A park is nestled behind the palace and features a distinctive
bell tower, which houses a remarkable bell. Cast in 1341, it is
the oldest bell in Ukraine. The cathedral grounds are extremely
calming and it‘s hard to imagine that hard times once prevailed.
Following the death of metropolitan Andrei Sheptytsky in
March 1946, Soviet authorities coerced church leaders to
denounce Rome and join the Russian Orthodox Church. Justice
prevailed in 1989 as the Greek Catholic Church re-established
itself and resumed operation of the cathedral. The last major
event to take place at St. George happened 2001. While visiting Lviv, Pope John Paul II lived in the Metropolitan‘s Palace.
What to see
The Armenian Cathedral (Virmens‘kyi Sobor) C-3,
Virmens‘ka 7. The history of Lviv is a tapestry woven by
more than 100 nationalities. Armenians began inhabiting
the city in the 14th century and quickly established their own
quarter complete with a small cathedral completed in 1370.
This original building perished in the fire of 1527. The structure
that stands today blends a few architectural styles including
Old Russian, Gothic and Armenian. The original bell tower was
erected in 1571, but was later toppled by the Turks during a
siege. The 19th century version of the bell tower is a restoration of the original. The courtyard provides a tranquil setting
for the decorative column and figure of St. Christopher. The
neighbouring buildings are those of a former Armenian bank,
established in the 17th century, and Lviv‘s oldest pawnshop.
The Assumption Church (Uspens‘ka Tserkva) B-3,
Rus‘ka 7. This vibrant example of Renaissance architecture
has served as the centre of the Orthodox Christian faith for
centuries. In the middle of the 16th century, the Assumption
Brotherhood was founded here along with a printing press
and a school. The church has experienced many episodes
of ruin and reconstruction. The first Assumption Church was
constructed of wood in 1344, but was destroyed by fire during
an attack on Lviv by Polish feudal lords in 1350. The second
church was built of stone in 1421 and experienced a relatively
peaceful existence until it too was levelled by the great fire of
1527. (With the exception of City Hall and one other structure,
the fire of 1527 devoured the entire city.) The replacement
was completed in 1559 and, you guessed it, was completely
destroyed by fire in 1571. The danger posed by fire was apparently driven home and the cathedral constructed in 1591
has survived until the present. Also located on the premises
are Kornjakt‘s Tower and the Chapel of Three Prelates.
The Bernardine Cathedral and Monastery D-5,
Soborna pl. 1-3. The Bernardine Cathedral and Monastery
is one of the most inspiring sites in Lviv. The area around
which the monastery stands has evolved over the years, but
the monastery itself remains as architect Pavlo Rimlyanin
envisioned. Constructed in the 17th century, the cathedral‘s
façade is protected by statues of the sacred order of Bernardine and the niches of the second tier hold images of Mary,
Jesus and apostles Peter and Andrew. Be respectful, of
course, but don‘t be afraid to drop in on a prayer session. The
cathedral‘s magnificent interior is stirring. Originally located
outside the city walls, the monastery had its own defences.
A section of the original protective wall remains and can be
viewed from Pidval‘na vul.The impressive column that stands
before the cathedral supports a sculpture of St. Jan and
was constructed in 1736. Originally from a small settlement
named Dukla, Jan rose to prominence in Lviv where he died in
September 1484 at the age of 60. He was quickly canonized.
The monument was established in memoriam to those on
the Polish side who perished during the Khmel‘nyts‘kyi Uprising. In 1648 allied armies led by Ukrainian Hetman Bohdan
Khmel‘nyts‘kyi invaded the Carpathian region in an attempt
to seize control from the Poles. One of the campaign‘s goals
was the complete eradication of Roman Catholic priests.
Legend has it that during a purge St. Jan appeared from the
heavens and protected the targeted group of priests. Much
speculation exists concerning controversial events that have
taken place within the monastery and its cells. One of the
more famous cases concerns a letter missive (sanction of
trade) addressed to Dracula. QOpen 10:00 - 11:00, 17:00
- 20:00. Admission is free.
The Assumption Church
City tours
Chudo Tour B-4, tel. (+380) 32 236 70 06, www.
chudotour.com.ua. Chudo Train starts every hour from
Ploscha Rynok (near the City Council entrance.) QOpen
10:00 - 18:00.
Kamianyi Lev B-4, Svobody prosp. 12, tel. (+380)
32 245 22 20. Q Open 10:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00
- 14:00. Closed Sun.
Lemberg Tour C-3, Vynnychenka 26/1, tel. (+380)
32 254 62 59, [email protected], www.lembergtour.com.ua. Lemberg Tour manages tourist information
centre on Rynok Square and provides Lviv city tours and
tours around Ukraine. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Ofit Service G-2, Ivana Ohiyenka 13, tel. (+380) 32
272 26 83, fax (+380) 32 272 26 86, info@ofit-travel.
com.ua, www.ofit-travel.com.ua. Ofit travel provides Lviv
city tours in English, Polish, German, French, Spanish and Ilalian. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Prime Excursion Bureau Kyiv, Schekavyts’ka
30/39, suite 4, tel. (+380) 44 227 77 78/(+380) 99
550 00 00, [email protected], www.primetour.ua.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Sat, Sun 10:00 - 18:00.
Wseswit B-5, F. Lista 3/3, tel./fax (+380) 32 297
05 68, [email protected], www.wseswit.
lviv.ua. Wseswit provides incoming tours to Lviv and
Ukraine, reservation of airline and railway tickets, transfer
arrangements. Carpathians, health-resorts of Carpathians, Morshyn, Truskavets, trips to Crimea, reservation
of hotels and car rent are also available. Ticket delivery
is free around Lviv. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00
- 15:00. Closed Sun. A6UL
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What to see
The Dominican Cathedral (Dominicans‘kyi Sobor)
D-3, Museina pl. 1. The foundation of the Dominican Monastery dates back to the second half of the 13th century
when Constance, the wife of Lev I of Galicia, commissioned
the construction of a small wooden church in gratitude for the
generosity of the local Dominican monks. Eventually destroyed
by fire in 1408, a Gothic-era stone church was constructed in
its place. The monastery, which could accommodate more than
100 monks, experienced its heyday beginning in 1612 when it
become the central monastery of the Eastern European Dominican Order. In 1742 cracks were detected in the cathedral‘s
arch. An emergency meeting was convened and all rescue
options were exhausted. Demolition commenced in 1749.
Construction on the new cathedral, designed by architect Jan
de Witte, began shortly after. The bell tower was constructed
in 1865. During the Soviet era the site was used as a regional
archive and as a school for would be printing workers. After
restoration in 1972 the Dominican Monastery opened as a
museum dedicated to the history of religion and atheism;
the atheists have since left the building. Religious services
have also resumed. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Admission is free.
The Chapel of the Boim Family (Kaplytsia Boimiv)
C-4, Katedral‘na pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 274 40 47. Constructed in the early 17th century on the grounds of what was
a city cemetery; this quaint structure was originally intended
for use as a crypt by the Boim family. George Boim, a Lviv
merchant and moneylender of Hungarian origin, started the
project and his son, Paul-George, put the finishing touches on
what would become a permanent feature in Lviv‘s stunning
centre. The side of the chapel is decorated with fretwork
that gives the impression that the entire structure has been
turned inside-out. Fresco portraits of George Boim and his
wife Jadwiga can be viewed from Halyts‘ka vul. The site has
been protected by UNESCO since the 1970s. QOpen 10:00
- 17:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr, children 5Hr.
The Latin Cathedral (Latyns‘kyi Sobor) C-4,
Katedral‘na pl. 1. This is a spectacular example of ancient
Lviv‘s Gothic influence. Officially known as the Archcathedral
Basilica of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, it‘s
understandable why most just call it the Latin. Constructed in
1360, a relic was incorporated into the first foundation stone
by King Kazimir the Great. Both the interior and exterior have
evolved throughout the centuries, but the sanctuary and
altar have remained unchanged. The cathedral was severely
damaged in the fire of 1527. During its restoration in the 18th
century, Baroque forms replace those of the Gothic era. The
marvellous stained glass windows were incorporated at the
end of the 19th century. A cemetery once existed on and around
what is now Katedral‘na ploscha (Cathedral Square). In 1765
all burials were relocated and further burials forbidden. The
cemetery‘s chapel, the Chapel of the Boim Family, remains on
the site and is a protected historical monument. Pope John Paul
II attended mass here on June 26th, 2001. QOpen 07:00 19:00. Admission 2Hr. Photography is prohibited.
Museums
Brewing Museum (Muzey-py vovarnia) G-1,
Kleparivs‘ka 18, tel. (+380) 32 294 80 65. In recognition of the 290th anniversary of one of Europe‘s oldest
breweries, the Brewing Museum was opened to the public
in 2005. Six-hundred square metres of the brewery‘s
historic premises were specially renovated in order to host
this unique museum. The collection contains a plethora of
exceptional beer utensils and brewing hardware that represent various epochs. Admission includes a trip to the tasting
hall: a titillating bonus for all fans of Lvivs‘ke (Львівське)
beer. Excursions are available in Polish, Russian and Ukrainian, and descriptions in English under each exhibit make it
enjoyable for the rest. QOpen 10:30 - 18:00. Closed Tue.
Admission 15Hr.
Johann Pinzel Museum (Muzey Ioana Pinzelya)
D-5, Mytna pl. 2, tel. (+380) 322 75 69 66. This museum
presents 32 sculptures of the world-renown 18th century Lvivian
sculptor Johann Georg Pinzel. Often referred to as Ukrainian‘s
Michelangelo the beauty and mastery of his work justifies
this distinction. Little is known about the sculptor‘s life and
controversy continues to hover around his identity, but doesn‘t
that make his art all the more alluring? If you‘ve decided that
you don‘t have time to visit a museum while in Lviv: skip lunch,
head to Mytna pl. and discover the essence of Ukrainian art.
QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Lviv Art Gallery (Lvivs‘ka halereya mystetstv) A-5,
Stefanyka 3, tel. (+380) 32 261 44 48. With 24 halls and
more than 400 works from leading French, Italian, Austrian,
German, Russian, Polish and Ukrainian masters, this is the
largest and arguably finest art museum in Ukraine. The collection of Polish art is unmatched outside of Poland. Pieces
in this collection date from the 16th to 20th centuries and
include impressive works by leading 19th century masters
Artur Grottger and Jan Matejko. The pride of the museum, two
world art masterpieces, is Georges de La Tour‘s “Payment
of Dues” and Tiziano Vecellio‘s “Portrait of a Man”. The halls
on the first floor regularly host thematic exhibitions. Last
entrance one hour before close. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00, Sun
12:00 - 16:00. Closed Mon. Admission 10Hr.
Lviv History Museum (Lvivs‘kyi istorychnyi muzey)
The Chappel of Boim Family
Lviv In Your Pocket
C-3, pl. Rynok 6, tel. (+380) 322 74 33 04, www.lhm.
lviv.ua/eng. Founded in 1893, this is one of Lviv‘s oldest
museums. Originally located in a chamber of City Hall, the
contemporary museum is spread out among four unique architectural monuments dating from the 16th-18th centuries. The
collection is composed of more than 330 thousand exhibits
What to see
that offer fascinating snapshots into the lives of those who
inhabited Lviv from ancient times up to the present. The main
branch can be found at Rynok ploscha (Market Square) in the
Kornjakt Palace. During the 17th Century the palace served as
a royal roost for Jakub Sobieski, the father of Polish king Jan III,
and Wladyslaw IV, the Polish conqueror who occupied Moscow
and seized the Russian crown. The collection‘s highlights
include ancient furniture, pictures, silver ornaments and the
Royal Chambers. The museum‘s second and third branches
are also located on the square in buildings 4 and 24. The
fourth branch is located at the Arsenal on Pidval‘na vul. 5 and
is dedicated to the region‘s history of weaponry. Excursions
in English can be difficult to rustle up, but most of the exhibits
speak for themselves. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed.
Admission 5Hr, students and senior citizen 2Hr.
Lviv Museum of Ancient Relics C-1, pl. Uzhgorods‘ka
1, tel. (+380) 322 72 28 86. It‘s appropriate that this
museum of ancient relics is located in one of Lviv‘s most
ancient churches. St. John the Baptist Church was originally
built in 1250, a time of profound transition and growth in
the newly established capital of Galicia. Though it has been
reconstructed numerous times, an antique feel prevails. The
museum opened in 1993 as a branch of the Lviv Art Gallery.
Artistic works, sacral relics and archaeological findings tell
the enthralling story of ancient life in the region. Dated to
the second half of the 14th century, the collection‘s “Lviv
Virgin and Child” is one of the oldest existing Ukrainian icons.
QOpen 11:00 - 17:00. Closed Mon.
Magnets Museum-Shop C-4, Serbs‘ka 9, tel. (+380)
32 235 80 32, www.muzey.lviv.ua. Got empty space on
your fridge? Magnets Museum Shop has you covered. With
handcrafted wooden and porcelain magnets, games, mugs,
t-shirts, decorative plates and those god-awful wooden
maces, this place has something for everyone on your souvenir shopping list. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. 6
Museum of Ethnography and Art Crafts B-4, Svobody
prosp. 15, tel. (+380) 32 272 78 08. Known for its unique
collection of Ukrainian cultural artefacts, this celebrated museum
houses more than 83 thousand items. The stunning rugs and
tapestries, delicate wooden crafts and ancient musical instruments provide vivid frames into the lives of the region‘s past
inhabitants. The clock exhibit is the largest and most valuable in
Ukraine, but it‘s the vibrant assortment of embroidered national
attire that really stands out and tends to bring touring groups
to a sudden halt. The collection of jewellery is also impressive
and features a remarkable silver episcopal baton dated to the
11th-13th centuries. The main exposition is located within the
former premise of a Galician-era bank. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Closed Mon. Admission 5Hr, children 2Hr.
Museum of Historical Valuables C-3, pl. Rynok 2,
tel. (+380) 322 72 06 71. This museum recently opened
in 2005 following the restoration of the enthralling Bandinelli
Palace. The current exhibitions constitute only part of what
will be a much larger display and include a stunning display
of gold and silver jewellery, pottery and miscellaneous civic
articles. The building itself casts a shadow over the exhibit;
to stroll the newly renovated palace halls is worth the meagre
charge of admission. QOpen 10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed.
Admission 3Hr, students and senior citizen 2Hr.
National Museum (Natsional‘nyi muzey) B-3, Svobody prosp. 20, tel. (+380) 32 272 80 63. The National
Museum was originally established in 1905 as a private collection for the church by metropolitan Andrei Sheptytsky. It was
later transferred to the city in 1913. Throughout its more than
100 years of existence an extraordinary 130 thousand exhibits
have been collected. The museum‘s pride is also Ukraine‘s
largest display of Ukrainian sacral art, which dates from the
The Latin Cathedral
12th-18th centuries. Icons, sculptures, manuscripts and
decorative carvings immortalize Ukraine‘s religious past. Tours
are available in English, Polish, Russian and Ukrainian. QOpen
10:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon. Admission 17Hr, students 6.50Hr.
The Pharmacy Museum “Pid Chornym Orlom” C-3,
Drukars‘ka 2, tel. (+380) 322 72 00 41. If you haven‘t noticed by now, Ukrainians love pharmaceuticals. There‘s a drug
store on practically every corner of every city! The foundation
of a museum dedicated to the apothecary is very fitting. The
Pharmacy Museum is located in a drugstore established in 1735
by a military pharmacist. The drugstore remains in operation and
continues to mix its signature “Iron wine” used to treat anaemia.
This distinctive angular house on the corner of Drukars‘ka and
Stavropihiyska hosts an exposition of more than 3,000 articles.
The most curious of which are the pharmaceutical scales located
in the opening hall. The second hall was originally used as a
stockroom and currently displays pharmaceutical instruments
from a variety of epochs. Within the third hall you‘ll discover an
ancient laboratory that was reproduced on the basis of pictures
and engravings. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Admission 3Hr, students
and senior citizen 2Hr.
The Weapon Museum “Arsenal” D-4, Pidval‘na 5,
tel. (+380) 32 235 86 61. Establishing a weapons museum at the Arsenal was a no-brainer for city planners. It‘s
a brisk walk up the hill, but the fascinating array of swords,
daggers, spears, lances, fire-arms, armour and other military
equipment make the climb well worth it. The collage of locally
crafted weapons and armour really stirs the imagination. The
museum has also acquired samples of ancient weapons
from around the world. Chronologically organised by weapon
type, you‘ll have no problems finding your own way around
and your whacky uncle will definitely spring at the chance
to be photographed in authentic knight‘s armour. QOpen
10:00 - 17:30. Closed Wed. Admission 8Hr, students and
senior citizen 3Hr.
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Out of town
Trekking in
Carpathian National Park
All those looking for a break from city life, look no further.
Carpathian National Park is one of Eastern Europe’s most
stunning and peaceful recreational areas. Located on the
southwest slopes of Ukraine’s Carpathian Mountains, the
area is the geographical centre of Europe. Hikers, mountain
bikers and backpackers are drawn by the steep spiked ridges
that spring, like backs of sleeping dragons, from dazzling pine
forests. Many of the country’s highest peaks can be found
here including Mount Petros (2020 m) and Ukraine’s highest
peak, Mount Hoverla (2061 m).
There are three towns located within the park well equipped
for tourism. Yaremche is the largest of the three, and has
the most to offer in the way of accommodation, dining and
other services; Yasinya, located in the heart of the park, is
a small ski town with great trail access; Rakhiv rests on the
Tysa River and is the southern gateway.
In Your Pocket travelled to the region and had a glorious
adventure. Our backpacking trek began off the beaten path
in the small village of Chorna Tysa (located a few kilometres
northwest of Yasinya). We arrived late in the day and were lucky
to meet a gracious forest ranger who recommended a shortcut
to the ridge via a logging road and small cabin complex. He
demanded that we stay in his cabin and offered-up any coffee
and sugar we could find. After a challenging 10 km hike, we
made it to the cabins just after dark. The cabin was rustic, to
say the least, but did offer respite from the blasting wind.
Day two began with a brisk ascent to Mount Velykyi Kotel (1770
m). The view looking down on Lake Borozhes’ka is tremendous.
We continued along the ridge to Mount Troyaska (1762 m), and
spent the evening and following morning basking in the pristine
beauty and tranquillity of Lake Apshinets.
In July 2008, the worst flooding in more than 100 years
devastated the area killing dozens and destroying homes and
infrastructure. Many of the bridges that once allowed for easy
access to ridges and lakes were destroyed and have not been
rebuilt. We decided to descend from the lake to Chorna Tysa
via a gorge. The map showed a relatively mellow trail complete
with bridges and a road. When we came to what should have
been the first bridge, a pile of shattered timbers was all that
remained. We were forced to scale the steep gorge walls, saturated by spring runoff. Rock and mud crumbled treacherously
beneath our boots. With the bridges gone, it took three hours
to traverse a mere 2.5 km in dangerous flash-flood conditions.
Bikers should avoid gorges altogether!
Lviv In Your Pocket
We arrived back at Chorna Tysa exhausted, but in high-spirits,
and set off for the village’s sole pub. Local people are friendly,
local dogs, on the other hand, are not. On our way back from
the pub, I was bitten savagely by a mongrel sheep dog. Ouch!
Attention: Take a map and compass! Though our map was
misleading as far as bridges go, it was essential. We trekked
33 km in three days and saw only two faded trail markers the
entire time. Trail maps can found at shops and tour agencies
in Yaremche, but it’s wise to get your hands on one before you
go. In Lviv, maps are available at the book market at
The Book House Lviv, Mickiewicza pl. 8, tel. (+380)
32 274 41 64. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
In Kyiv, purchase trail maps at
D N V P K a r to g r a p h i a Ky i v, P o p u d r e n k a 5 4 ,
MChernihivs’ka, tel. (+380) 44 292 31 24. QOpen
08:00 - 18:00.
Getting there
We drove (not recommended!) from Kyiv via Zhytomyr Khmel’nyts’kyi - Ivano-Frankivs’k. These highways are some
of Ukraine’s deadliest, and despite a graphic public service
campaign advocating safe driving, reckless drivers continue
to crash and burn. I feared for my life most of the 10 hour
drive, especially when my friend - a Ukrainian with a Michael
Schumacher complex - was behind the wheel. Your best bet
is by train or plane (see Domestic flight schedule) to IvanoFrankivs’k, then 65 km by bus/marshrutka to Yaremche.
From Kyiv, take train No. 43 (19:16 - 7:02) or No. 143 (22:06
- 10:54). Buses headed to the park depart Ivano-Frankivs’k
bus station approximately every 30 minutes. From Lviv, train
No. 606 goes all the way to Rakhiv.
Where to stay
Vodospad Hotel-Resort Yaremche, vul. Svobody 363a,
tel. (+380) 34 344 49 00. Vodospad is one of Yaremche’s
most renowned hotels. Set on bank of the Prut River, the hotel
features European standard rooms, a restaurant, 24 hour bar,
sauna, car park, fitness room, kids’ room, salon, massage,
billiards, swimming pool, excursion programs (from ethno to
extreme) and conference facilities for up to 100.
Hotel Edelweiss Yasinya, tel. (+380) 31 324 21 37. Located between the picturesque Chorna Tysa and Lazeschyna
rivers, Edelweiss is owned and operated by Bukovel ski resort.
Rooms are relatively luxurious. Amenities include a popular
restaurant, billiards and bar.
out of town
Lisova Kazka Kvasi village, tel. (+380) 31 323 24 95,
www.lisova-kazka.com. Located in the village of Kvasi, the
hotel offers ideal access to hiking and biking trails leading to
Mounts Hoverla and Petros. The hotel has modern rooms,
the Huntsman’s Bar, billiards and sauna.
Hotel Europa Rakhiv, vul. Miru 42, tel. (+380) 3132
2 12 48. Europa is one of Rakhiv’s most popular hotels.
Standard and lux rooms are comfortable and modern. Notable
amenities include a conference hall, sauna, billiards, swimming
pool, fitness centre and restaurant with Ukrainian cuisine.
Where to eat
Churchill Bar Yaremche, Svobody vul. 363A, tel. (+380)
3434 4 49 00. Located on the ground floor of Vodospad
hotel, with a name like Churchill expect the best food, booze
and cigars. Q Open 00:00 - 24:00.
Krasna Sadyba Yaremche, Ivasyuka vul. 6, tel. (+380)
3434 2 11 48. This restaurant was built to resemble a
traditional Hutsul “kolyba”. The kolyba is a wooden mountain
hut with an open fireplace used by shepherds. The menu is a
smorgasbord of traditional Hutsul, Ukrainian and European.
Q Open 11:00 - 23:00.
Vatag Yaremche, Svobody vul. 363A, tel. (+380) 3434
4 49 00. Located at the Vodospad Hotel, Vatag has a cosy
atmosphere and a menu highlighted by intriguing Ukrainian
and Hutsul dishes, i.e. “Ukrainian Kiss”, “Fisherman’s Dream”
and “Hutsul Colour”. This is a popular venue for banquets,
parties and live music. Q Open 07:00 - 23:00.
Lion Café Yasinya, Franka vul. 7, tel. (+380) 3132 4 20
31. This restaurant has a rustic traditional interior and, not surprisingly, offers up Hutsul cuisine. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00.
Gaizobar Café Yasinya, Vyzvolennia vul. 186, tel.
(+380) 3132 4 31 86. Traditional Carpathian cuisine is
served in a cosy cabin setting. Q Open 09:00 - 23:00.
Where to gear-up
VELO-TUR Yaremche, Svobody vul. 278/1, tel. (+380)
3434 2 13 86. VELO is your one-stop-shop for rental equipment. Mountain bikes can be rented for 50 - 90Hr per day.
Backpackers can gear-up with packs, tents, sleeping bags
and mats. They also offer bike, sightseeing and ATV/quad
tours. Q Open: 09:00 - 17:00.
Mountain people
Hutsuls are a Ukrainian
ethnic group who have
inhabited the Carpathian
Mountains for centuries.
Known for their intricate
craftsmanship and
vibrant songs and
dances, they are often
celebrated in Ukrainian
ar t and literature.
Traditional Hutsul life
revolves around logging,
forestry and herding.
Their language is a unique dialect of Ukrainian with
Romanian and Polish features; however, as the country
continues to solidify Ukrainian as the national language, it
is believed that the Hutsul language will soon disappear.
More info
www.karpaty.info/en/ www.adventurecarpathians.
com/en/ and www.rakhiv-tour.info
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Underground Lviv
One of the most haunting places in Lviv’s old
town actually lays metres beneath the cobble.
The area is crisscrossed
by kilometres of underground tunnels - the
remains of ancient Lviv.
This labyrinth attracts
treasure hunters, thrill
seekers and those looking to be immersed in
a bewildering medieval
atmosphere. The vast
majority of these caves are not sanctioned for exploration.
Naïve and unprepared adventurers can easily get lost,
caught in cave-ins or even catch diseases (the causative
agents of which are able to lie in wait for centuries). However, it is possible to sneak a peak at the longest of Lviv’s
underground medieval streets: Teatraln’a vul. Access
this hidden world via an excursion that can be booked at
the St. Peter and Paul Church of the Jesuit Order.
The Jesuits first arrived to Lviv at the end of the 16th century. Though shunned at first, the monks soon proved their
worth as educators. Admission to the Jesuits’ schools was
free of charge and open to all Christians independent of
their nationality. Famous traveller Hryhorovych-Barskyi
and Hetman Bohdan Khmel‘nyts‘kyi are among the
schools’ alumni.
The church, modelled
after the classic Church
of the Gesù in Rome,
was constructed in the
beginning of the 17th
century. When the Austria-Hungarian Empire
ordered the abolition
of the Jesuits in 1848,
the church became a
garrison temple used
by various religions. In
Soviet times, a book
depository was established here (nearly two
million historic manuscripts are still stored within). During
this time, the church’s vaults were used as warehouses by
the workers of municipal services who transformed these
nether regions into some of the most alluring passages
of underground Lviv.
The excursion begins at a hatch to an underground tunnel that passes beneath Svobody prosp. The passage
is just wide enough for two pairs of explorers to pass
without rubbing shoulders. As you enter, check out the
two metal rings fastened to the wall. These were used in
medieval times to restrain prisoners. Other instruments of
torture, now stored at the Religion History Museum, were
also discovered here. Despite this gruesome evidence,
historians argue that adequate documentation does
not exist to prove that executions connected with the
Inquisition took place here or anywhere in Lviv. Also on
display are relics used by the city’s inhabitants during the
15th-19th centuries.
The most popular feature is the solid stone sarcophagus
which dates to the 18th century - the weight of the lid alone
exceeds 600 kg. The coffin’s Latin inscription reads that
it was intended for archbishop Vizhitsky, but researchers
Lviv In Your Pocket
maintain that the absence of remains and the fact that
the burial date was never engraved is proof enough that
the sarcophagus was never occupied.
Another of the excursion’s highlights is the telling of the
Legend of the Black Monk. The story goes that a boastful
monk was locked in one of the vault’s cells as punishment
for his arrogance. Soon thereafter, a pale man in a black
robe entered the church and persuaded the brethren that
he could talk some sense into the boastful monk. The
mysterious stranger was ushered into the cell beneath.
The brethren overheard the two men arguing, and then…
silence. When they opened the door to the cell, the two
men had vanished, and in the corner of the cell they found
a small parchment, on which was written a contract signed
in blood. The boastful monk had offered up his soul to
the devil for an undisclosed sum. Supposedly this “fact”
is fixed in the archives, and Lviv’s legal records have a
copy of the contract.
The funeral urn with ancient Chinese hieroglyphs is
another of the vaults’ intrigues, though the origin of this
find can be explained. Medieval Lviv had trading and diplomatic relations with China. The urn most likely contains
the ashes of the loved one of a Chinaman who happened
to be living/travelling in Lviv, or it was made in Lviv by
a Chinaman whose loved one met his/her unfortunate
destiny in this foreign land.
Titillating rumours concerning the Jesuit monks’ hidden
treasure persist to this day. For most visitors, however,
the restored vault is treasure enough, and provides an
unforgettable time portal to Lviv’s mystifying ancient past.
It’s best to book excursions in advance. You also can book
alternate excursions that begin at the Pharmacy Museum
and The Assumption Church through the tour agencies
listed in this guide.
The St. Peter and Paul Church of the Jesuit Order
(Kostiol Jezuitiv) B-4, Teatral‘na 11. Located with
its back turned to Svobody prosp. and the monument
of Taras Shevchenko, this is considered one of the more
mystical places in Lviv. The church was constructed in
the beginning of the 17th century and is modelled after
the classic Church of the Gesù in Rome. The size of the
church is impressive: 41metres long, 26 metres high and
22.5 metres wide. When Austria ordered the abolition of
the Jesuits 1848, the Lviv brotherhood owned property
worth up to one million thalers (big bucks for that time). A
section of the premises is currently occupied by the Lviv
Scientific Library and is used as an archive. Q Excursion
starts every hour from 13:00 until 18:00 and can be
ordered in Ravlyk Salon (Svobody prosp. 15, tel. (+380)
32 298 25 95). Exhibition admission 7Hr, student 5Hr.
Underground excursion 12Hr, student 8Hr.
Mail & Phones
Postal delivery in Ukraine is generally reliable, but every
so often a letter or package will go missing and never arrive at its intended destination. The post office remains
a throwback to Soviet times with its redundant and
confusing bureaucratic order. When sending or picking
up a package or letter be patient and try not to be too
intimidated by the burly woman shouting incomprehensible orders at you.
Express mail
DHL E-3, Chernivets’ka 9, tel. (+380) 32 242 64 00,
fax 0 32 242 64 01, www.dhl.com.ua. QOpen 09:00
- 18:00.
FedEx Naukova 5A, office 215, tel. (+380) 32 298
16 05, www.fedex.com. QOpen 10:00 - 17:00. Closed
Sat, Sun.
TNT Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho 212, corp. 2, tel. (+380)
32 242 02 50, www.tnt.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
UPS Horodots’ka 205, tel. (+380) 32 238 43 55/297
07 48, www.ups.com. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed
Sat, Sun. A
Post
Central Post Office A-5, Slovats‘koho 1, www.
ukrposhta.com. QOpen 09:00 - 17:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Public internet access
Chorna Medeya H-3, Petra Doroshenka 50, tel. (+380)
32 261 02 50. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 6-9Hr per hour.
Maximum C-5, Kniazia Romana 2, tel. (+380) 32 235
29 51. Also at Melnyka 18. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00. 4-8Hr
per hour.
Pozytyv I-4, Zelena 14, tel. (+380) 32 294 90 51.
QOpen 08:00 - 20:00.
Mobile phones
There are two types of mobile phone numbers in Lviv direct numbers (which do not differ from the Lviv fixed line
numbers, and may be dialled as such) and mobile numbers
(these should be preceded by 0 and the operator’s code).
SMS may not be sent to direct numbers. Mobile phone
calls in Ukraine are relatively cheap and very reliable. You
do not need to sign a contract or show your documents to
use the local provider’s service. SIM cards are available in
special service centres, mobile phone stores and even on
the streets. You can also buy cards to refill your account at
these same locations.
Beeline H-2, Torhova pl. 11, tel. (+380) 32 244 44 10,
www.beeline.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Kyivstar C-4, Valova 11, tel. (+380) 32 240 88
88/(+380) 32 290 11 90, www.kyivstar.net. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun.
Life B-4, Hryhorenka pl. 7, tel. (+380) 32 272 69 46,
www.life.com.ua. Q Open 10:00 - 20:00, Sat 10:00
- 18:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00.
MTS Tarasa Shevchenka prosp. 15, tel. (+380) 32 240
00 00, www.mts.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat
10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
UTEL A-5, Slovats‘koho 1, tel. (+380) 52, www.utel.
ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
 The Lviv
telephone code is +380 32 or (322)
Using a telephone
Fixed line telephone
To call a number inside Kyiv just dial the number. To make a
long-distance telephone call, dial 0, wait for the dial tone and
then dial the city code and number. To call Kyiv from another
town, dial 0, wait for the tone, dial Lviv’s city code (32) and
then the number. To make an international call, dial 0, wait
for the tone, and then dial 0 plus the country code, city code
and number itself.
Ukrainian city codes
Cherkasy
47
Kirovohrad 52 Rivne
36
Chernihiv
46 Kyiv
44 Sevastopol 69
Chernivtsi
37
Kyiv Region45 Simferopol 65
Dnipropetrovsk 56 Luhansk 64 Sumy
54
Donetsk
62
Lutsk
33 Ternopil
35
Ivano-Frankivsk 34 Lviv
32 Uzhhorod 31
Kharkiv
57
Mykolaiv 51 Vinnitsa
43
Kherson
55
Odesa
48 Zaporizhya 61
Khmelnytsky 38 Poltava
53 Zhytoymyr 41
The above Ukrainian city codes should be prefixed with an
“0” if dialing from another Ukrainian town.
International country codes
Australia
61
Germany 49 Poland
48
Austria 43 Greece
30 Romania 40
Belgium 32 Hungary 36 Russia
7
Bulgaria
359 Ireland
353 Spain 34
Canada 1
Israel 972 Sweden 46
Czech Rep. 420 Italy 39 Turkey
90
Denmark
45 Japan 81 Ukraine 380
Finland 358 Moldova 373 UK
44
France 33 Netherlands 31 USA 1
The above International country codes should be prefixed
with “0-0” if dialing from inside Ukraine.
Roaming
To call a fixed telephone in Ukraine dial 380 followed by
the city code and phone number. While calling a mobile
phone, use the operator’s code instead of a city code.
Laptop login
Wi-Fi
There are now a number of places in Kyiv which provide Wi-Fi
connections to the Internet both for mobile telephones, PDAs
with web browsers and laptops with Wi-Fi support. Look for the
W symbol in our guide. The service is usually free at hotels
and restaurants, but in some venues the connection costs
around 10Hr per hour.
3G & 4G
There are an increasing number of companies in Ukraine offering 3G & 4G service. You need to have a compatible telephone
or modem to connect to the Internet. SIM-cards can be found
at any one of the service centres of companies mentioned
in Mobile phones section above. The same service centres
can also refill your account and help with setting up a connection to the Internet.
Spring 2011
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Getting around
Airline ticket offices
Aerosvit Lubyns‘ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel.
(+380) 322 29 80 24, [email protected], www.aerosvit.
com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Lunch time 13:00-14:00.
Austrian Airlines Lubyns‘ka 168, Lviv International
Airport, tel./fax (+380) 32 297 60 90, tel. (+380) 32
297 62 91, www.aua.com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Carpatair Lubyns‘ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel.
(+380) 32 297 62 66/(+380) 32 297 61 11, [email protected], www.carpatair.com. QOpen 05:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sun. Lunch break 12:00 - 13:00.
LOT Polish Airlines A-4, Sichovych Striltsiv 5, tel.
(+380) 32 297 11 55/(+380) 32 297 50 57, www.lot.
com. Also at Lviv International Airport (open 11:30 - 15:30,
Sat, Sun 12:30 - 15:30), tel. 69 29 85. QOpen 9:00 - 17:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Ukraine International Airlines Lubyns‘ka 168, Lviv
International Airport, 2nd floor, tel. (+380) 322 98 69
77, [email protected], www.flyuia.com.
Car rental
Avis Pidstrygacha 6, (+380) 67 230 33
49, [email protected], www.avis.com.
ua. QOpen 06:00 - 24:00. L
Europcar Lypyns‘koho 36, tel. (+380) 32 294 89 94,
[email protected], www.europcar.ua. Also at Lviv
International Airport, tel. (+380) 32 229 87 87. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. A
Hertz Rent a Car Lubyns‘ka 13B, tel. (+380) 32 297 00
52, [email protected], www.hertz.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun. PAL
Sixt rent a car Lubyns‘ka 168, Lviv International Airport, tel. (+380) 32 255 61 01, www.sixt.ua. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun. AL
Taxis
Radio Taxi tel. (+380) 67 908 10 81
Express tel. (+380) 32 244 60 86
Mif tel. (+380) 32 241 91 11
Taxi 1506 , tel. (+380) 63 30 70 006
International train schedule
From Lviv
City
Dep. Arr.
15:23 08:13
ADLER
(on even days)
17:05 21:31
(5) BAKU (2)
21:20 20:36 (1-7) BELGRADE (1-7)
01:08 09:00
(7) BERLIN (1)
21:20 11:17 (1-7) BUDAPEST (1-7)
23:35 19:30 (1,4,6) BUHAREST (1,3,6)
07:19 15:27
( 1-7) KRAKOW (1-7)
23:59 05:14
( 1-7) KRAKOW (1-7)
19:00 09:00
MINSK
(on odd days)
08:37 09:10
(1-7) MOSCOW (1-7)
04:20 04:52
(1-7) MOSCOW (1-7)
10:57 09:56
(1-7) MOSCOW (1-7)
07:19 06:40
(1-7) PRAGUE (1-7)
07:19 09:33 (1-7) PRZEMYSL (1-7)
23:35 05:55
(1,4,6) SOFIA (1,3,6)
23:12 05:25
ST.-PETERSBURG
(on even days)
07:19 20:20
WARSAW
(on even days)
23:59 10:22 (1-7) WROCLAW (1-7)
07:19 20:25 (1-7) WROCLAW (1-7)
07:19 06:22
(2,5) VIENNA (4,7)
21:20 07:04
(1) VENICE (4)
21:20 19:36
(4,6) ZAGREB (2,7)
To Lviv
Dep. Arr.
14:33 05:47
(on even days)
23:20 05:37
07:20 10:31
15:15 22:58
18:43 10:31
06:25 08:04
13:00 23:44
22:34 06:03
15:49 04:54
(on even days)
15:46 13:57
21:20 00:10
22:13 20:52
21:42 23:44
19:17 23:44
19:40 08:04
12:45 15:19
(on even days)
06:55 23:44
(on even days)
17:20 06:03
08:08 23:44
22:08 23:44
21:32 10:31
10:00 10:31
Domestic train schedule
Feel the city’s charming atmosphere
Lviv In Your Pocket
From Lviv
City
Dep. Arr.
20:10 13:04
CHERNIHIV
(on odd days)
16:45 23:00 (1-7) CHERNIVTSI (1-7)
10:26 15:47
(1-7) CHOP (1-7)
09:44 02:40 (1-7) DNIPROPETROVSK
(1-7)
16:23 16:50
(1-7) DONETSK (1-7)
(1-7)
IVANO-FRANKIVSK
04:17 07:02
(1-7)
17:05 11:45
(1-7) KHARKIV (1-7)
14:39 10:15
(1-7) KHERSON (1-7)
04:20 13:22
(1-7) KYIV (1-7)
22:47 07:26
(1-7) KYIV (1-7)
19:27 10:34
(1-7) KYIV (1-7)
08:37 18:27
(1-7) KYIV (1-7)
01:08 06:31
(1-7) LUHANSK (1-7)
19:43 07:50
(1-7) ODESSA (1-7)
09:44 09:50 (1-7) SIMFEROPOL (1-7)
14:52 21:02 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7)
21:20 04:30 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7)
04:50 11:19 (1-7) UZHHOROD (1-7)
09:44 04:48 (1-7) ZAPORIZHYA (1-7)
To Lviv
Dep. Arr.
20:52 10:13
(on even days)
07:35 12:59
20:26 02:23
13:30 08:20
13:49 14:33
18:15 21:05
19:11
16:33
01:20
22:15
16:04
18:46
17:47
19:00
13:12
04:49
01:35
15:54
18:14
14:45
12:08
10:13
06:33
06:43
04:24
21:08
07:10
14:09
11:40
10:31
23:00
14:09
Getting around
International flight schedule
From Lviv
Days
Dep.
– 2 – 4 – – – 18:20
1 – – 4 – – 7 15:10
1 – – – 5 – – 20:05
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 13:50
1 2 – 4 5 – 7 13:05
– – – – – – 7 12:15
– – – – 5 – – 17:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:55
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 16:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:40
Arr.
19:25
17:15
20:55
17:45
13:50
14:40
19:20
08:10
17:00
15:40
City
DORTMUND (W)
ISTANBUL (TK)
VENICE (W)
MOSCOW Vnukovo (UT)
MUNICH (LH)
NAPLES (PS)
ROME (PS)
TIMISOARA (V3)
VIENNA (OS)
WARSAW (LO)
To Lviv
Days
Dep.
– 2 – 4 – – – 14:55
1 – – 4 – – 7 12:05
1 – – – 5 – – 16:45
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:55
1 2 – 4 5 – 7 09:25
– – – – – – 7 16:10
– – – – 5 – – 11:40
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 15:40
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 14:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:50
Arr.
17:50
14:10
19:35
12:50
12:15
18:25
13:55
16:50
15:20
13:50
Airline Codes: LO– LOT Polish Airlines, LH – Lufthansa Airlines, OS– Austrian Airlines, PS– Ukrainian International Airlines,
TK – Turkish Airlines, UT– UTair, V3– Carpatair, VV – AeroSvit, W – Wizz Air.
Domestic flight schedule
From Lviv
Days
Dep.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 08:00
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 12:15
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 18:05
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 06:45
Arr.
09:15
13:30
19:20
07:55
City
KYIV (VV)
KYIV (VV)
KYIV (VV)
KYIV (PS)
To Lviv
Days
Dep. Arr.
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 10:10 11:25
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 15:05 16:20
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 21:35 22:50
1 2 3 4 5 6 – 20:20 21:30
Lviv Holovnyi train station
Spring 2011
43
44
Shopping
Antiques
AntiqUA D-4, Valova 25, tel. (+380) 32 242 04 23/
(+380) 67 948 48 97. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00. Closed Sun.
Antykvar B-3, Lesi Ukrainky 8, tel. (+380) 322 74 32
34. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Arsenal Salon D-4, Pidval’na 5, tel. (+380) 32 275 30
55. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00.
Art Vernisazh B-2, Teatral’na 23A, tel. (+380) 322 72
00 54. QOpen 11:00 - 18:00. Closed Mon.
Gothic Hall C-3, pl. Rynok 6, tel. (+380) 32 272 60 91.
QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Stara Kramnychka C-3, Virmens’ka 18, tel. (+380) 32
297 51 57. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Books
Globus С-5, Halyts’ka pl. 12, tel. (+380) 32 274 01 77.
QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Knyharnia Ye B-4, Svobody prosp. 7, tel. (+380) 32 272
85 74. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00.
NTSh C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 6, tel. (+380) 32 279 85
80. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
The Book House B-4, Mickiewicza pl. 8, tel. (+380)
32 274 41 64. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Ukrains’ka Knyharnia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 6,
tel. (+380) 32 272 16 30. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00, Sat
Kleopatra B-2, Knizia Yaroslava Osmomysla pl. 28/
(+380) 32 272 09 80.
Solomiya C-6, Shevchenka prosp 30, tel. (+380) 32 261
18 71, [email protected], www.solomiya.lviv.
ua. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00, Sat 10:00 - 17:00.
Perfume & Beauty
Brocard A-3, Svobody prosp. 27, tel. (+380) 322 72
28 55. Also at Svobody prosp. 35, tel. 260 13 57. QOpen
10:00 - 22:00. A
Cosmo A-3, Svobody prosp. 47, tel. (+380) 32 272
85 73. Also at B-5, Voronoho 2, tel. 272 66 83. QOpen
08:00 - 21:00. A
Eden B-3, Korniakta 1, tel. (+380) 32 274 10 69. QOpen
10:30 - 20:30, Sat 11:00 - 16:00. Closed Sun. A
Photography
09:00 - 15:00.
Amator B-4, Svobody prosp. 1/3, tel. (+380) 32 272 78
29. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 17:00. A
Baransky Photostudio C-5, Kniazia Romana 12/14,
tel. (+380) 32 276 98 40. Also at I-4, Zelena 2. QOpen
09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 18:00. A
Europhoto A-2, Panteleymona Kulisha 5, tel. (+380)
32 272 85 45. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 10:00 - 19:00,
Sun 11:00 - 18:00. A
Photonova A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 8, tel. (+380) 32
272 70 08. Also at B-3, Shevs’ka 1, tel. 297 56 57. QOpen
09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 18:00. A
Flowers
Shopping Malls
Bohemia Fleur A-5, Kopernyka 17, tel. (+380) 32 272
07 91. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Dimos Flowers B-3, Lesi Ukrainky 19, tel. (+380) 32
297 52 45, www.dimos-flowers.com/en. QOpen 10:00
- 19:00, Sun 12:00 - 17:00.
Flower Waltz I-5, Oleksandra Arkhypenka 28, tel.
(+380) 32 276 83 30, www.flowers-waltz.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sat 09:00 - 19:00, Sun 09:00 - 15:00. A
Gifts & Souvenirs
Arta C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 25, tel. (+380) 32 279
74 96.
Artishok H-2, Torhova pl.11, tel. (+380) 32 244 56 91.
QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 11:00 - 18:00.
Bila Skelia I-4, Skel’na 1, tel. (+380) 32 275 79 80.
QOpen 10:00 - 19:00, Sun 11:00 - 19:00.
Tsikava Kramnychka A-6, Stefanyka 15, tel. (+380)
32 261 00 01.
Magnets Museum-Shop C-4, Serbs‘ka 9, tel. (+380)
32 235 80 32, www.muzey.lviv.ua.
Jewellery
Amphora C-5, Kniazia Romana 6, tel. (+380) 32 225 52
67. QOpen 10:00 - 19:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Diamant B-4, Katedral’na pl. 8, tel. (+380) 32 272
45 22.
Diamo B-5, Mickiewicza pl. 5, tel. (+380) 32 272 66
72. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Halyts’ki Zolotari I-4, Shota Rustaveli 4, tel. (+380)
32 275 08 74.
Lviv In Your Pocket
King Cross Leopolis Stryis’ka 30, Sokilnyky, tel.
(+380) 32 242 05 80, [email protected], www.
kingcross.com.ua. King Cross is the largest mall in western
Ukraine. The mall has a total area of 116 546 sq. m. on two
levels; including an Auchan hypermarket with an area of 13
000 sq. m. and over 100 commercial stores, boutiques, cafes,
and restaurants. The mall is bright and spacious. One could
imagine oneself in any major city in the world! For recreation
there is a bowling alley, ice rink, and an Imax movie complex.
There is plenty of parking, both above and below ground.
A taxi from the city centre costs 40-50Hr. There are some
city based Martuchkas to/from the Mall but we weren’t that
adventurous. Future expansion of the mall is planned and
will include an additional 130 stores, and the parking area
will be increased by 600 parking spaces. QOpen 10:00 22:00. PAL
Magnus A-2, Shpytal’na 1, tel. (+380) 32 244 42
65, www.magnus-store.com. The original building of
the Magnus shopping centre was built in 1912-1913 by
the renowned Polish architect Roman Felinski. Architecture
historians believe that the model for the architect was the
structure of the shopping centre in Berlin on Leipziger Strasse
built in 1896 by the architect Alfred Messel. It is a shining
example of world industrial-commercial architecture of the
early 20th century. Until 2003 it was known as the Soviet
style department store TsUM. It is considered by some as
the best shopping centre in Western Ukraine. There are
many international brands represented such as; Trussardi,
Ferre, Apriori, Oui, Carre Blanc, Blumarine, John Richmond
etc. Magnus is situated in the very centre of Lviv. The sight
from the bistro windows on the top floor is lovely. One can
see the Opera House, Vysokyi Zamok, streets and the old
city. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00. PAULW
Health & Sport
24-hour pharmacies
Apteka #12 G-3, Ivana Ohiyenka 5, tel. (+380) 32 274
85 35. QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Apteka #2 A-3, Tyktora 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 50 48.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
D.S. C-4, Halyts‘ka 19, tel. (+380) 32 274 20 06.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
Tico C-6, Johara Dudayeva 3, tel. (+380) 32 272 50 87.
QOpen 00:00 - 24:00.
In Vitro Fertilization
ICSI
Infertility Treatment
Diagnostic ultrasonography
All kinds of gynecological services
Beauty salons
Elite D-5, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 4, tel. (+380) 32
275 68 92. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00 - 15:00.
Formula of beauty K-4, Levyts‘koho 4, tel. (+380)
322 25 58 57. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 09:00 - 15:00.
Lel C-3, Drukars‘ka 4, tel. (+380) 32 297 56 36/261
66 82, fax (+380) 32 261 66 98. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00,
Sun 10:00 - 16:00.
Sharel H-3, Kopernyka 30, tel. (+380) 32 244-44-47,
www.sharel.com.ua. QOpen 10:00 - 20:00, Sun 10:00
- 14:00.
Victoria C-3, Danyla Halyts‘koho pl. 3/1A, tel. (+380)
32 297 56 19. QOpen 09:00 - 19:30, Sat 09:00 - 19:00,
Sun 10:00 - 17:00.
Private clinics
Alternatyva E-5, Heroiv UPA 73, tel. (+380) 32 232
77 83/(+380) 32 230 18 72, www.alt-med.com.ua.
The main area of Alternatyva is treating all kinds of infertility of men and women. Also the clinic provides all kinds of
gynaecological services from preventive examinations for
ultrasound examination of internal organs. Pregnant women
are examined using the latest ultrasound equipment that allows to detect pathology fatal development even at the early
stages of pregnancy. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00 Closed Sat, Sun.
Lviv Regional Diagnostic Centre K-3, Pekarska 69B,
tel. (+380) 32 275 49 90. QOpen 08:00 - 21:00.
Medical F-3, Horodots‘ka 85/227, tel. (+380) 32 240
37 67, www.medikal.lviv.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat
09:00 - 13:00. Closed Sun.
Prostir Medical Centre A-3, Svobody prosp. 33, tel.
(+380) 32 242 15 90, www.prostir.lviv.ua. Q Open
08:00 - 19:00, Sat 08:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
K.M.K. G-4, Kotliarevs‘koho 27/2, tel. (+380) 32 237
30 20. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
Dry cleaners
Chysto A-4, Petra Doroshenka 15, tel. (+380) 32 298
94 74. QOpen 10:00 - 19:00.
Eurochystka A-2, Panteleymona Kulisha 17. Also at I-4,
Ivana Franka 61, tel. 0 32 276 27 79; A-4, Akademika Hnatiuka
6. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00, Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Dentists
ABM-Vitadent I-4, Skel‘na 1/9, tel. (+380) 32 260 23
57. QOpen 08:00 - 20:00, Sun 09:00 - 13:00.
Ortadent Assistance G-3, Zamknena 6, tel. (+380)
32 297 07 47. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
K.M.K. G-4, Kotliarevs‘koho 27/2, tel. (+380) 32 237
30 20. QOpen 09:00 - 20:00.
73, Heroiv UPA Str., Lviv 79015
tel.: (032) 232 77 83, (063) 230 18 72
www.alt-med.com.ua
[email protected]
Fitness clubs
Ellada F-4, Mel‘nyka 18, tel. (+380) 32 298 16 62.
QOpen 09:00 - 21:00. Closed Sun.
Eurosport I-4, Petrushevycha 1, tel. (+380) 32 276 33
28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00, Sun 07:00 - 14:00. C
Grand Sophia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. (+380)
32 297 40 94. QOpen 08:00 - 21:30, Sat, Sun 10:00 -
21:30.
Billiard & Bowling
Berkli K-5, Kerchens‘ka 15A, tel. (+380) 32 276 14 69.
Q 30-36Hr per hour.
Billiard Centre G-1, Kleparivs‘ka 30, tel. (+380) 32
233 32 94. QOpen 09:00 - 02:00. 30-40Hr. VIP hall - 60Hr.
Classic E-4, Heroiv UPA 80, tel. (+380) 32 238 13 98.
QOpen 14:00 - 04:00. 45Hr per hour.
Ostrava Bowling E-5, Yevgena Konoval‘tsya 103, tel.
(+380) 32 295 38 86. QOpen 10:00 - 24:00. 60-120Hr
per hour.
Swimming pools
Aquapark Kniahyni Olhy 114, tel. (+380) 32 263 60
55. QOpen 07:00 - 22:00. Admission 20-40Hr.
Dynamo G-4, Vitovs‘koho 53, tel. (+380) 32 238 64 16.
Q 06:00 - 08:15, 13:30 - 15:00, 19:15 - 21:30. 25Hr per hour.
Eurosport I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 1, tel. (+380) 32 276
33 28. QOpen 07:00 - 23:00. 90Hr per hour.
Grand Sophia C-5, Shevchenka prosp. 10, tel. (+380)
32 297 40 94. Q Open 08:00 - 21:30. 80Hr per hour.
Children - 40Hr.
Spring 2011
45
46
Business directory
Officials
City Council C-4, pl. Rynok 1, tel. (+380) 32 254
60 06, fax (+380) 32 274 40 85, www.city-adm.lviv.
ua/zed/index.php?lang=en.
Ministry of Foreign Affairs D-4, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 18, office 118-119, tel. (+380) 32 235 64
78/(+380) 322 98 62 55, www.mfa.gov.ua/mfa/en.
Italy C-6, Johara Dudayeva 2, tel. (+380) 322 72 27 56.
Kazakhstan G-2, Yakova Rapoporta 6, tel. (+380)
322 25 57 67.
Accountants & Consulting
European Business Association G-4, Stepana
Bandery 6, office 3, tel. (+380) 32 261 29 28, fax (+380)
32 261 22 68, [email protected], www.eba.com.ua.
PricewaterhouseCoopers E-4, Heroiv UPA 72, tel.
(+380) 32 242 53 05, [email protected], www.
pwc.com/ua.
Banks
Erstebank B-4, Svobody prosp. 5, tel. (+380) 32 298 90 86,
www.erstebank.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Prominvestbank B-4, Akademika Hnatiuka 2, tel.
(+380) 32 260 14 92, www.pib.com.ua. QOpen 08:00
- 20:00, Sat 12:00 - 17:00. Closed Sun.
Raiffeisen Bank Aval A-5, Kopernyka 14, tel. (+380)
32 297 06 75, www.aval.ua/en. QOpen 09:00 - 18:30,
Sat 09:00 - 14:00. Closed Sun.
Ukreximbank B-5, Mickiewicza pl. 4, tel. (+380) 32
297 01 77, www.eximb.com/eng. QOpen 09:00 - 19:00.
Ukrsotsbank B-4, Mickiewicza pl. 10, tel. (+380) 32
244 05 01/(+380) 32 244 05 58, www.usb.com.ua/en.
Evening cashier‘s office until 19:00. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
Closed Sat, Sun.
Foreign representations
Austria C-6, Shevchenka prosp. 26, tel. (+380) 322
61 20 14.
Latvia Viacheslava Chornovola 57, tel. (+380) 322 40
33 70/(+380) 322 94 82 20, fax (+380) 322 94 82 23.
Lithuania H-4, Kotsubyns‘koho 13/1, tel. (+380) 322
98 96 50.
Mexico D-6, Akademika Bohomol‘tsya 15, tel. (+380)
322 75 95 95, fax (+380) 322 25 77 56.
Netherlands G-5, Akademika Sakharova 42, tel. (+380)
322 97 19 06/(+380) 322 97 14 49.
Poland I-5, Ivana Franka 110, tel. (+380) 322 97 08
61/(+380) 322 97 08 62.
Russia K-4, Levyts‘koho 95, tel. (+380) 322 75 24 63/
(+380) 322 75 05 77, www.lviv.mid.ru.
Laweyrs
Arzinger G-4, Henerala Chuprynky 6, tel. (+380) 32
242 96 96, [email protected], www.arzinger.ua. QOpen
09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
J&L Consulting H-2, Sholom-Aleikhema 11, tel. (+380)
322 97 05 97, fax (+380) 322 97 05 95, [email protected],
www.j-l.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Kaizen G-5, Komaryntsia 2, tel. (+380) 32 247 35 36,
[email protected], www.kaizen-law.com.
Lviv Regional Laweyrs Bar D-4, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6/8, tel. (+380) 32 272 16 24. Q Open
09:00 - 18:00.
Soldatenko, Lukashyk & Partners C-3, Virmens’ka
18/18, tel. (+380) 32 235 76 42, [email protected],
www.slp.com.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Belarus E-3, Hors‘koii 2, tel. (+380) 322 37 27
Translators & Language courses
Belgium D-6, Ivana Franka 14, tel. (+380) 32 260 20
International House I-4, Petrushevycha pl. 3, tel.
30/(+380) 322 99 24 60, fax (+380) 322 99 24 60.
80/(+380) 32 260 01 49.
Brazil E-2, Cholovs‘koho 2, tel. (+380) 322 97 11
51/(+380) 322 97 65 08, fax (+380) 322 97 11 77.
Canada D-5, Akademika Bohomoltsya 2, ap.4, tel.
(+380) 322 97 17 72, fax (+380) 322 97 81 54.
(+380) 32 260 12 68, [email protected], www.ihlviv.
com. QOpen 10:00 - 18:00.
Language Fast D-6, Levyts‘koho 3/1, tel. (+380)
32 275 16 19. QOpen 09:00 - 21:00, Sat 10:00 - 15:00.
Closed Sun.
Georgia B-4, Svobody prosp. 13, tel. (+380) 322 97 40
Lider - Centre of Foreign Languages I-4, Ivana Franka
33, office 4, tel. (+380) 32 243 69 16, [email protected],
www.lider.lviv.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Germany D-5, Volodymyra Vynnychenka 6, tel. (+380)
322 75 71 02, fax (+380) 322 76 28 40.
Runa Agency of For eign Languages B-5,
98/59 32 32 fax (+380) 322 76 94 84.
Hungary Kniahyni Olhy 116, tel. (+380) 322 64 58
Chaikovs‘koho 12/12, tel. (+380) 32 298 69 69, www.
runa.org.ua. QOpen 09:00 - 18:00.
22/(+380) 322 24 43 90, fax (+380) 322 64 15 23.
Lviv In Your Pocket
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en © Lviv In Your Pocket, 2010 р.
s’k
a
50
Street register
Akademika Andriya
Sakharova
F-5, G-4/5
Akademika Bohomol’tsia
D-5/6, I-3
Akademika Filatova
J-3
Akademika Hnatiuka
A-3/4, H-2/3
Akademika Kravchuka J-3
Akademika Krypiakevycha
K-3
Akademika Liul’ky A-1, H-1
Akademika Pavlova
J-4
Akademika Romana Kuchera
G-2
Akademika Serhiya
Yefremova
E-5, F-4
Albans’ka
K-5
Anatoliya Vakhnianyna K-5
Aral’s’ka
K-5
Arkhitektors’ka
G-3/4
Azovs’ka
K-5
Bankivs’ka A-4, B-4/5, H-3
Barvins’kyh
J-2
Baturyns’ka
G-1
Bazarna
G-1/2
Beryndy
B/C-4, H/I-3
Bibliotechna
G-3/4
Bohdana Khmel’nyts’koho
B-1/2, H/J-1, H/I-2
Bohdana Lepkoho
I-2/3
Boi-Zelens’koho
G-5
Bolhars’ka
H-5
Borysa Romanyts’koho G-4
Brativ Mikhnovs’kyh F-2/3
Brativ Rohatyntsiv C/D-4, I-3
Brativ Tymoshenkiv
G-4
Briulova
G-4
Brovarna
G-2
Cathedral’na pl. B/C-4, I-3
Chaikovs’koho
A/B-6, B/C-5, H/I-3
Chekhova
J-3
Chereshneva
I-4
Chernihivs’ka
J-3
Chernivets’ka
E-3
Chervona
F-5
Cholovs’koho
E-2
Danyla Halyts’koho pl.C-2, I-2
Dekarta
F-3
Denysa Lukjianovycha G-4
Det’ka
B-1/2, H-1
Dmytra Bortnians’kohoE/F-2
Dmytra Danilyshyna A-2, H-2
Dmytra Dontsova
J-3
Dmytra Huni
F-1
Dmytra Vitovs’koho
G/H-4, H/I-5
Dniprovs’ka
J-4/5
Dolyns’koho
H/I-1
Dorosha
J-4
Drahomanova
C-6, H/I-4
Drohobycha
A-4/5, H-3
Drukars’ka
C-3, I-2
Dvortsova pl.
E-3
Dzherel’na
H-1/2
Dzherel’na
H-1
Dzyndry
H-5
Fed’kovycha
E-3/4
Ferentza Lizta
B-5, H-3
Furmans’ka
A-3, H-2
Galileia
K-4
Gazova
A-1, H-1
Glynky
G-5
Gogolia
G-3
Gors’koii
E-3/4
Grunval’ds’ka
F-4
Haidamats’ka
I-1
Halyts’ka
C-4, I-3
Halyts’ka pl.
C-4, I-3
Hanny Barvinok
E/F-5
Hartmana Vitvera
J-3
Havryshkevycha
C-3, I-2
Henerala Chuprynky
E/F-5, F/G-4
Henerala Hrekova
G-1
Lviv In Your Pocket
Henerala Hryhorenka pl. H-2
Henerala Hrytsaia
J/K-5
Henerala Tarnavs’koho
J-4/5, I-5
Henerala Yunakieva E-1/2
Henerala Zasiad’ka
G-5
Heroiv UPA
E/F-4
Hertsena
C-6, I-4
Hlibova
H-4
Hlyboka
F/G-4
Holovats’koho
F-3
Hopsova
E-5
Horodots’ka
A/B-2, A-3, E/G-3, G/H-2
Horodyns’kyh
E-5
Hrabovs’koho
G/H-4
Hrebinky
H-2
Hrets’ka
H-5
Hryhorovycha
B-6, I-3/4
Hutsul’s’ka
J-2
Hvardiys’ka
G-4/5
Illariona Sventsits’koho I-5
Ivana Bohuna
G-4
Ivana Fedorova
C-3/4, D-4, I-2/3
Ivana Franka
D-5/6, I-3/4
Ivana Franka pl.
I-5
Ivana Gonty
B/C-2, I-2
Ivana Gorbachevs’koho F-5
Ivana Karpyntsia
G-5
Ivana Levyns’koho
F-4
Ivana Ohiyenka
G-2/3
Ivana Pidkovy pl.
B-4, H-3
Ivana Rutkovycha
I-5
Ivana Sharanevycha E/F-2
Johara DudaievaB/C-6, H/I-3
Josypa Slipoho
J-4/5
Kalicha Hora
A/B-6, H-4
Kameniariv
G-3
Karaims’ka
I-1
Karmaluka
K-3
Karpats’ka
J-4/5
Karpins’koho
F-4, G-3
Kastelivka
F-5, G-4
Katliars’ka
H-2
Kerchens’ka
K-5
Kharkivs’ka
K-2/3
Khimichna
H-1
Kholodnoho
K-5
Khorvats’ka
G-2
Khotyns’ka
F-3
Khudozhnia
E-4
Kleparivs’ka
G-1/2
Klionovycha
D-6, I-3
Kniahyni Ol’hy
F-5
Kniazha
J-2
Kniazia Leva
C-2, I-2
Kniazia Mstyslava Udaloho
A/B-2, H-2
Kniazia Romana C-5/6, I-3
Kniazia Yaroslava Osmomysla
pl.
B-2, H-2
Kniazya Sviatoslava pl. F-2
Kobylians’koi
I-4
Kokorudza
F-4
Kol’bera
G-4
Kolessy
H-4
Koliivschyny pl.
D-4, I-3
Komarova
E/F-2
Komaryntsia
G-5
Konopnyts’koi
I-4
Konotops’ka
E-5
Kooperatyvna
F-2/3
Kopernyka
A-5/6, B-5, G/H-4, H/I-3
Korduby
J/K-1
Korniakta
B-3, H/I-2
Koroliova
J-5
Korotka
E/F-3
Kortumivka
G-2
Kostiushka
A-4, H-3
Kostomarova
I-4
Kotliarevs’koho
F/G-4
Kotliars’ka
A-2, H-2
Kotsubyns’koho
H-4/5
Kotsylovs’koho
J/K-5
Krakivs’ka
B-2/3, C-3, I-2
Krekhivs’ka
G/H-1
Kremenets’ka
E-5
Kropyvnyts’koi pl.
F-3
Kryva Lypa prov.
A-4, H-3
Kubiyovycha
I-5
Kushevycha
H-1
Kvitky-Osnovianenka
F-2
Kvitneva
F-5
Kyivs’ka
F-4
Kyryla i Mefodiia
H/I-4
Lazneva
A-2, H-2
Lemkivs’ka
H-1
Leontovycha
G-2
Lesi Ukrainky
B/D-3, I-2
Lesia Kurbasa
A-3/4, H-2
Levandivs’ka
E-1
Levyts’koho
D-6, I/K-4
Liainberha
H-2
Lips’ka
E-4
Lisna
K-2/3
Litnia
H-5
Lobachevs’koho
I-1
Lukasha
G-5
Luts’koho
E-1/2
L’va Tolstoho
I/J-5
Lychakivs’ka
I/K-3
Lypneva pl.
E-4
Lysenka
D-3, I/K-2
Lystopadovoho Chynu G/H-3
Lyzhvjiars’ka
H-5
M. Slobodivny
J-4
Magazynova
F-2
Maiera Balabana
A-2, H-2
Maksyma Kryvonosa
D-2, I/J-2
Maksyma Zalizniaka
E-4
Mala
J/K-3
Malaniuka pl.
B-5, H-3
Marka Vovchka
F-2/3
Markiyana Shashkevycha pl.
G-4
Martovycha
B/C-6, I-4
Mateika
G-3
Mechnikova
K-3/4
Medova
A/B-1, H-1
Mel’nyka
E/F-4
Mendeleeva
H/I-4
Mentsyns’koho
H-2
Meretyna Bernarda
F-3
Metrolohichna
F-5
Mickiewicza
B-5, I-3
Modesta Sosenka
F-1
Morozenka
F-2
Morshyns’ka
F-5
Muliars’ka
A/B-1, H-2
Muravy
G/H-3
Museina pl.
C-3, I-2
Mykhaila Hrushevs’koho I-4
Mykhaila Verbyts’koho G-4
Mykhaila Yatskoho
F-1
Mykhal’chuka
A-3, H-2
Myklukho-Maklaia
J-2
Mykoly Voronoho B-5, H/I-3
Mykoly Zerova
E-4
Mytna pl.
D-5, I-3
Mytropolyta Andriya
F-3
Mytropolyta AngelovychaF-3
Mytropolyta Lepkivs’koho
K-2
Nalyvaika
A-3, H-2
Nasypna
C-2, I-2
Nechuia-Levyts’koho
G-4
Nekrasova
J/K-3
Nizhyns’ka
K-3
Novakivs’koho
G-3
Novyi Svit
F/G-4
Nyz’kyi Zamok
B-3, H-2
Odes’ka
F-3
Ohirkova
I-1
Oleksandra ArkhypenkaI-4/5
Oleksandra Fredra C-6, I-3/4
Oleksandra Konys’koho I/J-4
Oleksandra Olesia
K-5
Oleksy Dovbusha
J-2
Oleny Pchilky
I-4
Oleny Stepanivny
E/F-2
Oleny Telihy
K-5
Olhy Basarab
J-5
Ol’zhycha
K-5
Opil’s’koho
F-4
Opryshkivs’ka
J-1
Ostapa Nyzhankivs’koho
C-5, I-3
Ostrohrads’kyh
G-5
Ostrozhs’koho
K-3
Ozarkevycha
F/G-3
Ozheshko
E-5
Paliia
I-4
Panchyshna
K-5
Panteleymona Kulisha
A-1/2, H-1/2
Paparivka
I/J-1
Parfanovychiv
J-3
Parkova
I-5
Pasternaka
E-4
Pavla Kovzhuna B-5/6, I-3
Pavlyka
J-4
Pekars’ka D-5, I/J-3, J/K-4
Peremys’ka
E-5
Pereyaslavs’ka
J-5
Perova
F-3
Petra Doroshenka
A-4/5, B-4, G/H-3
Pid Dubom
H-1
Pidval’na
D-3/4, I-2/3
Pidmurna
B-2, H-2
Pidzamche
I-1
Pisha
C-2, I-2
Piskova
K-3
Pochaivs’ka
K-1
Pogulianka
K-5
Pokhyla
G-5
Polischuka
E-4
Politekhnichna
G-4
Popovycha
B-6, H/I-4
Povstans’ka
E-5
Profesors’ka
G-3/4
Prosvity
D-4, I-3, J-2
Pryrodna
F-5
Pyl’nykars’ka
B-1, C-2, I-2
Repina
K-3
Rizni pl.
A-2, H-2
Rodyny Krushel’nyts’kyh
J/K-5
Romanchuka
J-4
Rudans’koho B/C-5, I-3
Rus’ka
C/D-4, I-2/3
Rusovyh
F-4
Rybna
C-2, I-2
Ryleieva
G-3
Ryl’s’koho
J-4
Rymlianyna
D-5, I-3
Rynok pl.
C-3/4, I-2/3
S. Ludkevycha
I-5
Sadovs’koho
K-3
Saksahans’koho
C-6, I-4
Samiylenka
I/J-4
Sarjiana
E-4
Schekavyts’ka
E-2
Schepkina
G-3
Sechenova
F-3
Sels’kyh
E-4/5
Serbs’ka
C-4, I-3
Severy
I-5
Sheptyts’kyh
F-3
Shevchenka
E-1, F/G2
Shevchenka prosp.
C-5/6, I-3/4
Shevs’ka B-3, I-2
Shkil’na
I-1
Sholom-Aleikhema
H-2
Shopena
H-2
Shota Rustavelli
I-4/5
Shpytal’na
H-2
Shukhevycha
C/D-6, I-3
Shymzeriv
K-4
Sians’ka
B-2, H-2
Sichovykh Stril’tsiv A-4, H-3
Simsotrichchia
H-1
Skel’na
I-4
Skliana
F-1/2
Skovorody
K-3
Slovats’koho
A-5, H-3
Smal’-Stots’koho
E-4
Smerekova
B/C-1, I-1
Smol’s’koho
J-3
Snopkivs’ka
I-5
Soborna pl.
D-5, I-3
Solodova
K-3
Solomii Krushel’nyts’koi
G/H-3
Sorokhteya
E-1
Stara
B-2, H-2
Staroyevreis’ka C/D-4, I-3
Stavropihiys’ka
C-3, I-2
Staroznesens’ka
K-1
Staryi Rynok pl.
B-2, I-2
Staryts’koho
F-4
Stepana Bandery F-3/4, G-4
Stefanyka A-5/6, B-6, H-3/4
Stets’ka
C-6, I-4
Storozhenka
E-2
Strimka
I-1
Stryis’ka
G/I-5
Students’ka
J/K-5
Sviatoho Yura pl.
G-3
Svobody prosp.
H-2/3
Sydora Holubovycha
F-3
Tamans’ka
H-2
Tatars’ka
H/I-1
Teatral’na
B-2/4, H-2, I-3
Tekhnichna
G-3
Tershakivtsiv
J-3/4
Teslenka
H-1
Tobilevycha
F-4
Tomashivs’koho
B-6, H-3
Torhova pl.
A-2, H-2
Tsekhova
H-1
Tugan-Baranovs’koho J-3/4
Turets’ka
H-5
Turians’koho
F-1
Tutunnykiv
I-5
Tykha
B-5, H-3
Tyktora
A-3, H-2
Ulasa Samchuka
I-5
Universytets’ka
H-3
Ustyianovycha
G-3
Uzhhorods’ka
C/D-1, I-2
Vagova
A-2, H-2
Valova
C/D-4, I-3
Vasylevycha
J-4
Vasylkivs’koho
E-4
Venetsianova
H-4
Verkhats’koho
J-3
Vernyhory
F-2/3
Vesela
B-1, H-1/2
Veteraniv
G-1
Viacheslava Chornovola prosp.
A-1/2, H-1/2
Vicheva
C-2, I-2
Vicheva pl.
B-3, H-2
Virmens’ka
B/C-3, H/I-2
Vodohinna
J-5
Volodymyra Antonovycha
E-4/5, F-4
Volodymyra Ivasuka J-4/5
Volodymyra Korolenka J-2/3
Volodymyra Vynnychenka
D-2/5, I-2/3
Voloschaka
H/I-5
Voloshyna
C-6, I-3/4
Volos’ka
I-5
Vuz’ka
J-3
Viytovycha
F-3
Vyshens’koho
K-3
Vyshyvanoho pl.
I-5
Vysokyi Zamok
D-1, I/J-2
Yakova Rappoporta
G-2
Yapons’ka
F-4
Yaroslava Mudroho
F-2/3
Yaroslava Prstaka
G-2
Yasna
E-2
Shevs’ka
B-3, I-2
Yeroshenka
E/F-1
Yeroshenka
G-1
Yevgena Konoval’tsya
E-4/5, F-4
Yevgena Petrushevycha I-4
Zakharievycha
F-4
Zaklyns’kyh
K-1
Zaliznychna
E-2/3
Zamarstynivs’ka
B-1, H-1
Zamknena
G-3
Zamkova
C/D-1, D-2, I-1
Zan’kovets’koi
J-3
Zaryts’kyh
H/I-5
Zdorovjia
F-4
Zelena
I/J-4, J/K-5
Zernova
A-2, H-2
Zhovkivs’ka
I-1
Zhukovs’koho
F-4
Zhyzhky
B-2/3, H/I-2
Zolota
F-1, G-2
Zvenyhorods’ka pl. B-2, I-2
Index
К.М.К.
Acropolis
Alekstra
Alternatyva
Amadeus
ABM-Vitadent
Aerosvit
Alpaca
Amator
Amphora
AntiqUA
Antykvar
Apteka #12
Apteka #2
Aquapark
Archive Pub
Arsenal
Arsenal Salon
Art-11
Arta
Artishok
Art Vernisazh
Atmosphera
Austria
Austrian Airlines
Avis
Baransky Photostudio
Beeline
Beer Garden
Belarus
Belgium
Berkli
Bila Skelia
Billiard Centre
Black Cat
Black Stone House
Bohemia Fleur
Brazil
Brewing Museum
British Council
Brocard
Bukhara
Cabinet
Café 1
Canada
Carpatair
Celentano
Central Post Office
Central Square Hostel
Chaos
Charivnyi Likhtar
Chopin
Chorna Medeya
Chudo Tour
Chysto
Citadel Inn
City Council
City Hall
Classic
Coffee in Leopolis
Cukiernia
Darwin
45
25
26
45
21
45
42
24
44
44
44
44
45
45
45
29
33
44
10
44
44
44
21
46
42
42
44
41
29
46
46
45
44
45
30
33
44
46
36
10
44
23
26
26
46
42
25
41
17
10
26
14
41
35
45
14
46
33
45
26
26
22
DeMandjaro
25
Dnister
14
Double Coffee
26
DHL
41
Diamant
44
Diamo
44
Dimos Flowers
44
Dublin
30
Dynamo
45
Dzyga
10
Eden
44
Elite
45
Ellada
45
Eney
16
Erstebank
46
Eurochystka
45
Eurohotel
16
Europcar
42
Europe
22
European Business
Association
46
Europhoto
44
Eurosport
45
Fashion Club
22
FedEx
41
Fenomen
31
First Ukrainian Theatre for
Children and Youth
10
Flower Waltz
44
Formula of beauty
45
Fortuna De Luxe
32
Frantsishka
26
Freska
26
Gallery
31
Gallery of Ukrainain Military
Uniform
10
Garbuz
19
Garmata
22
Gasova Lyampa
27
George
17
Georgia
46
Gerdan
10
Germany
46
Globus
44
Gloria Jean's Coffees
27
Goethe-Institute
10
Gothic Hall
44
Grand Hotel
14
Grand Hotel Restaurant 22
Grand Sophia
45
Halyts’ki Zolotari
44
Hertz Rent a Car
42
Hit-Café
25
Hors
19
Hungary
46
International House
46
International Varenyky Fund
(IVF)
19
Italian Yard
33
Italiys'kyi Dvoryk
27
Johann Pinzel Museum 36
Kartopliana Khata
25
Kentavr
19
Khmilnyi Dim Roberta Domsa
19
King Cross Leopolis
44
K`Kawa
27
Kamianyi Lev
35
King Jan III Sobieski Palace33
Kinopalace
10
Kinopalace Kopernyk
10
Kleopatra
44
Knyharnia Ye
44
Korzo Pub
30
Krakivska Brama
20
Kryjivka
24
Kult Club
31
Kumpel
20
Kupol
23
Kurmanovicha
18
Kvartyra 35
27
Kyiv
10
Kyivstar
41
La Piazza
24
La Rouge
23
Leo City
18
Leopolis
14
Language Fast
46
Lel
45
Lemberg Tour
35
Lerroy Country Club
31
Les Kurbas Lviv Academic
Theatre
10
Lider - Centre of Foreign
Languages
46
Life
41
Lithuania
46
LOT Polish Airlines
42
Lviv
10, 17
Lviv Art Gallery
10, 36
Lviv Backpackers Hostel
Roxelana
18
Lviv History Museum
36
Lviv Holovnyi Train Station 6
Lviv International Airport 6
Lviv Museum of Ancient
Relics
37
Lviv Palace fo Arts
10
Lviv Regional Dall Theatre 10
Lviv Regional Diagnostic
Centre
45
Lviv's Chocolate Workshop27
Lviv State Palace
10
Lychakiv Cemetery
34
Magnets Museum-Shop37, 44
Magnus
44
Mapa
27
Maria Zankovetska National
Academic Ukrainian Drama
Theatre
10
Market Square
33
Masoch Café
27
Maximum
41
Medical
45
Medivnia
19
Metro
32
Ministry of Foreign Affairs 46
MTS
41
Museum of Ethnography and
Art Crafts
37
Museum of Historical
Valuables
37
Na Bambetli
27
Natalia 18
16
National Museum
37
Naydorozhcha Restoratsiya
Halychyny
23
Netherlands
46
New York Street Pizza
25
Nostalgia
24
NTSh
44
Ofit Service
35
Old Ukrainian Home
18
Opera
14
Ortadent Assistance
45
Ostrava Bowling
45
Panorama
22
Pan Tao
21
Photonova
44
Piano Bar
30
Picasso
32
Pid Klepsydroyu
28
Pid Synioiu Pliashkoiu
28
Pid Zolotoiu Rozoyu
22
Pizzeria La Grotta
25
Poland
46
Porokhova Vezha
19
Pory roku
10
Pozytyv
41
Praga
21
Praga Café
28
Praga Pub
30
Prestige
17
PricewaterhouseCoopers 46
Prominvestbank
46
Prostir Medical Centre
45
Punkt
25
Puzata Khata
25
Pyvnytsia Leva
20
Raiffeisen Bank Aval
46
Reikartz Dworzec
16
Reikartz Medievale
16
Restoratsiaya na Valoviy 24
Retro Hostel Shevchenko 18
Rumba Bar
30
Runa Agency of Foreign
Languages
46
Rus'ka Street
34
Russia
46
Seven Piggies
20
Solomiya
44
Sonata
28
Soviet Home Hostel
18
Stargorod Brewery
20
Stari Mury
28
Staryi Krakiv
17
Sharel
45
Sixt rent a car
42
Solomiya Krushelnytska
Opera and Ballet Theatre 10
Split Club Lviv
32
St. George Cathedral
34
Stara Kramnychka
44
Staryi Tiflis
23
Stryis’kyi Avtovokzal
5
Sushi Kappo-IN
25
Svit Kavy
28
Svitlytsia Leva
24
Swiss Hotel
16
The Armenian Cathedral 35
The Assumption Church 35
The Bernardine Cathedral
and Monastery
35
The Book House
44
The Chapel of the Boim
Family
36
The Dominican Cathedral 36
The Georgehouse hostel 18
The Grill
20
The Kosmonaut
18
The Latin Cathedral
36
The Opera House
34
The Pharmacy Museum “Pid
Chornym Orlom”
37
The St. Peter and Paul
Church of the Jesuit Order40
The Weapon Museum
“Arsenal”
37
Tico
45
TNT
41
Tsikava Kramnychka
44
U Burgera
17
U Kima
20
Ukraine International Airlines
42
Ukrains’ka Knyharnia
44
Ukreximbank
46
Ukrsotsbank
46
UPS
41
UTEL
41
Valente
28
Valentino
24
Veronika
20
Vezha Kramariv
20
Vezha Vedmezha
18
Vienna
17
Vintage
24
Vintage Boutique Hotel 16
Victoria
45
Virmenka
28
Voskresinnya Theatre
10
Wseswit
35
Yapi
25
Yapona Hata
25
Zamok Leva
16, 24
Zoloto Polubotka
28
Zolotyi Dukat
28
Zolotyi Vepr
28
Free downloads, videos, comments
and exclusive features: all online at
inyourpocket.com
Europe’s online city guide
Spring 2011
51
In Your Pocket guides and mini-guides are published in more than 50 cities across the
continent. You can download PDF versions of them all for free at inyourpocket.com.
In Your Pocket
Europe’s City Guide
inyourpocket.com

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