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www.vivifirenze.it
living & studying in Florence
May
June
2003
distributed
free
Chianti
between
past & present
Fabbrica
Europa
the Renaissance
City reborn
vivi la notte
hot summer nights
Culture
the Renaissance City reborn
Fabbrica Europa
the Tent(h) Year
more on < vivifirenze.it >
by Maddalena Delli
a city should stretch and adjust to
welcome and accommodate different
needs and ‘guests’, rather than limiting them with a rigid structure.
abbrica Europa is back in
town with its yearly festival
held from May 2nd to 31st at
the Stazione Leopolda.
The project started back in 1994 with
the aim to set up in Florence a permanent workshop and interactive
meeting place for
artists from all over
Europe – although the
Renaissance City, with
the physical and intellectual ‘burden’ of its
overwhelming past,
was neither an obvious nor an easy place
for such an enterprise.
F
Newly organized a few
months ago into a
Foundation, ten years
on Fabbrica Europa is
now firmly established
as one of the most
interesting international
events of contemporary arts.
This year’s festival
draws inspiration from
a statement by one of
Italy’s leading 20th C.
architects, Giovanni
Michelucci (b. Pistoia,
1891; d. Florence,
1991), who stood for
the notion of ‘cittàtenda’ (tent-city)
against that of ‘cittàcarcere’ (jail-city). In
short, he argued that
<2>
This year’s decor of the Stazione
Leopolda has been entrusted to
English designer Nigel Coates, who
fittingly thinks architecture should pull
together the normal world while providing ‘windows for the imagination’.
Sometimes described as Britain's
‘bad boy of architecture’, Coates has
been able to turn his visionary ideas
into reality with major buildings in
Japan and the UK, and is best known
for designs including the British
Pavillion Expo in Lisbon, and the giant
‘Body Zone’ sculpture for the
Milennium Dome in London.
A train to the future
Fabbrica Europa has certainly achieved at least one
big goal: reclaiming the formerly derelict 19th C.
Stazione Leopolda as a cultural venue for the
city. Located at Porta al Prato by the Parco delle
Cascine, the Leopolda was Tuscany’s first rail
station (built in 1848 under Grandduke Leopoldo
di Lorena) and has retained its original structure
and monumental character with a huge single hall
beneath a metal roofing. The scenic forecourt –
remodelled by Gae Aulenti in 1996 – further
covers 1,100 square meters. It is an imposing
example of industrial architecture and a venue
well suited for many different types of events.
Culture
most active djs and
producers on the
Italian underground
scene.
The following
night an eclectic mix
of reggae, house, hip
hop and jazz music will be played
by Alex Patterson and The Orb.
On Saturday 10th the spotlight
by Anna Magazzù
On Saturday 24th the
Transglobal Underground Dj Set
will feature David Hewitt Coleridge.
Finally, the closing event on
Saturday 31st May will be a long
night starting at 10pm with Uly
Troyer and continuing till late with
Claudio Sinatti, Hexstatic and
Smith & Mighty.
Admission prices for individual events will range
between 8 and 12 Euros, but there are discounts for students with proof of identity. For
more info you can call 055.2638480 or check
www.fabbricaeuropa.net
goes on Madrid De
Los Austrias (from
Vienna) and Nigel
Hayes, a top name
on the European
scene.
Saturday 17th will
be an all-Italian night
with Dj Fiore and Alessio Bertallot,
the heart and soul (and voice!) of
a popular show on Radio Deejay.
There will be visual and performing arts
including dance shows, concerts, dj sets (see
box on the right), workshops and theater with
artists from all corners of the globe: from
France to Norway, from the States to the
Nederlands, from Canada to Senegal, from
Brazil to Belgium.
Dj-ing at the Fabbrica
As part of the Fabbrica Europa
Festival, a number of late night
Dj-Set parties will be held in May
at the Stazione Leopolda, featuring Italian and international guests.
The first show is on Saturday
3rd at midnight with Gilles
Peterson from BBC Radio 1.
On Thursday 8th the mixer will
be taken up by Painè, one of the
Over four weeks, Fabbrica Europa will host a
huge number of events – far too varied and
extensive for us to list them here, but you can
check our website www.vivifirenze.it for a
detailed and constantly updated program.
<3>
Culture
When
two months packed with events for
Italy's oldest music festival
Maggio
lasts until July…
by Ligeia Madel
he 66th Maggio Musicale
Fiorentino festival will open
on May 11th and last until
July 7th. The show schedule
includes 3 brand new opera stagings
(Ludwig van Beethoven’s ‘Fidelio’ on
May 11th-21st, Wolfgang Amadeus
Mozart’s ‘La Clemenza di Tito’
between May 20th and June 1st, and
finally Giuseppe Verdi’s ‘Otello’ from
June 17th to July 1st), symphonic
and chamber concerts as well as
T
ballets, complemented with conferences and exhibitions.
The Festival will provide the chance to
see some of the world’s leading conductors in action, including Ivor Bolton,
Paavo Järvi and Zubin Mehta, who
on June 8th at the Teatro Verdi will
direct the Bayerisches
Staatsorchester from Munich in a
special concert to celebrate the 70th
anniversary since the foundation in
1933 of Italy’s first and most prestigious music festival. Another
special concert will be held
in the Salone dei
Cinquecento of palazzo
Vecchio on May 25th to
mark 10 years from the terrible bomb that wrecked the
Georgofili building and part
of the Uffizi Gallery on May
27th, 1993. On June 9th
violin virtuoso Salvatore
Accardo will play music
by Schumann and
Beethoven at the Teatro
Goldoni.
sketch for Otello
The full program of the
Festival is available on
maggiofiorentino.com
where you can also book
your tickets.
Infoline 199.109910
more on < vivifirenze.it >
Celebrating Culture
the 5th Cultural Heritage Week is held this year from May 5th through 11th.
The event is organized by the State Department for Artistic and Cultural
Heritage and Activities to promote culture, and will allow free admission to all
National museums and archeological areas – including, in Florence, the Uffizi,
the Accademia Gallery, all the museums in the Pitti Palace and the National
Archaeological Museum. There will also be talks, meetings, exhibitions workshops, performances, guided visits, special openings and previews of
restored art works. A comprehensive list of such events – over one thousand
all over Italy – can be found on the web site: www.beniculturali.it
<4>
Culture
Italy’s leading original sound movie program
grows even bigger
In their
own Words
taly's most popular 'original sound' movie program celebrates its successful 8th year by extending its schedule to Thursdays on top of the well
established Monday and Tuesday shows. In the outstanding art nouveau
décor of the Odeon Cinema just off piazza Strozzi in the heart of town, the
program offers top notch recent releases in their undubbed English-language
version. Individual tickets are Euro 7.20 each, but you can save nearly 40%
when you purchase a 'Club Card' for Euro 27.00, entitling you to 6 admissions
of your choice from the May/June program. The card can be shared between
two people and will also spare you box office queues.
Below is a list of forthcoming movies. For further details
and show times please check www.cinehall.it or call
055.214068
I
JUNE
MAY
Tu 3rd
Mo. 5th
Gangs
Of New York
Secretary
Th 5th
All Or Nothing
Tu. 6th
The Pianist
Mo 9th
Pollock
Th. 8th
8 Mile
Tu 10th
Mo. 12th
Daredevil
Solaris
Th 12th
25th Hour
Tu 13th
25th Hour
Mo 16th
Matrix Reloaded
Th 15th
Frida
Tu 17th
Mo 19th
Bowling For
Columbine
Tu 20th
High Crimes
Anger
Management
Th 19th
Life Or Something
Like It
Mo 23rd
Mo 26th
Matrix Reloaded
English language films are also
shown every Thursday until May
The Truth About 29th at the Fulgor Cinema in via
Charlie Maso Finiguerra, 24/r (between via
Palazzuolo and Borgo Ognissanti).
Th 26th
Bruce Almighty The full program will be available on
www.staseraalcinema.it
Dirty Pretty Thing
Tu 24th
Tu 27th
Matrix Reloaded
Th 29th
Confessions Of A
Dangerous Mind
The “Espresso” pleasure of Breakfast
The Tuscan taste of Lunch
The unique moment of Aperitif, drinks and snacks
COLLE BERETO: the Soul of Chianti in the Heart of
Florence
Piazza Strozzi, 5r - 50123 Firenze
Tel/Fax 055283156
[email protected]
www.collebereto.com
<5>
ItalianStyle Past
traditional crafts
revisited
Perfect
by Maddalena Delli
O
ltrarno means, literally,
'beyond the Arno', a term
which has come to stand
for the ancient city district of Santo
Spirito on the left bank of the river.
Since the best known monuments
and two thirds of the historical city lie
on the right bank, Oltrarno is still fairly
unknown to the most. Indeed, it does
have plenty of art treasures which
would be well worth a visit to Florence
in their own right: let us just mention
the magnificent Pitti Palace, the
church of Santo Spirito by
Brunelleschi and the Brancacci
Chapel with Masaccio's frescoes.
But besides all that, Oltrarno is the
one area in Florence where you can
still catch a genuine glimpse of the
city's past. Comparatively unspoilt by
commercial exploitation, mostly
unknown to the hoards of occasional
tourists, this part of Florence preserves – in a maze of narrow streets
and small squares – its
original and fine tradition of handicrafts,
whose skills are
handed down
from one generation to the next
since countless
centuries. Peer
into any of
these workshops and you will
often witness
scenes
which
may be
not very
much
unlike
those of a
Renaissance
'bottega' where our
greatest artists were
trained as goldsmiths, painters or
wood carvers in their younger days.
In order to promote and encourage the
knowledge of this area's hidden treasures, a local Committee now in its
eighth year of activity has been organising a number of events. The programme, known as Diladdarno (a
variant of 'Oltrarno', meaning exactly
the same) spans the whole year, but
has its core in a spring festival which
this time is held in May from Saturday
10th to Sunday 18th with art and
crafts exhibitions, street markets, fairs,
guided visits and more. The full program will be published on our werbsite
www.vivifirenze.it as soon as available.
Over the weekend of May 16th-18th,
the traditional skills and techniques of
ancient crafts will also be the core of
the 9th Artigianato & Palazzo. From
10am to 9pm in the magnificent formal Italianate gardens of Palazzo
Corsini sul Prato (via della Scala
115), over one hundred master
craftspeople from all
over Italy will be
providing ‘live’
on-the-spot
demonstrations
of their dexterity
in fields as
diverse as traditional cigar making
and silversmithery.
More info on
www.artigianatoepalazzo.it
or call 055.2654589.
<6>
F
I
R
www.raspini.com
E
N
Z
E
[email protected]
Prada Sport
Marithe Francois Girbaud
Fendi
BluGirl
Giorgio Armani
Prandina
Blumarine
Puma
C.P. Company
Marni
Cividini
Casadei
Piazza Sempione
Silavano Mazza
Jil Sander
Padovan
Ra-Re
Evisu
Paul Smith
Sylvie Schimmel
Via ROMA 25r tel.055/213077-214621
Via MARTELLI 5/7r tel.055/2398336
Folklore
The
soccer, rugby, football… you name it
They are all descendants
of Florentine football
father
of them all
by Hjordis Hildur Johannsdottir
lso known as calcio in
costume (costume football),
Florentine traditional football
dates back to the Renaissance.
Matches can be fairly violent with the
54 players (27 on each team,
dressed in medieval breeches) fired
by fierce local supporters. Anything is
allowed to get hold of the ball and
score a ‘caccia’. Four teams – one
from each of the traditional city districts – take part in the tournament:
Blue for Santa Croce, Green for San
Giovanni, Red for Santa Maria
Novella, White for Santo Spirito.
A
Team combinations for the two preliminary matches are drawn on Easter Day,
just before the ‘Scoppio del Carro’ ceremony. This year, the qualifying rounds
will take place on June 7th (Blue vs.
White), and 8th (Red vs. Green). The
final match between the two winners
will be played on June 24th, feast of
St. John the Baptist (the main patron
saint of Florence). All three matches are
held at 5pm in Piazza Santa Croce,
whose pavement will be covered in
sand for the occasion. Tickets will be
available from the Box Office in Via
Alamanni, 39 (near the train station).
Before each game, a formal procession
will depart from piazza Santa Maria
Novella at 4pm and parade towards
piazza Santa Croce through via de’
<8>
Banchi, via Rondinelli, via Tornabuoni,
via Strozzi, piazza della Repubblica, via
degli Speziali, via Calzaiuoli, piazza della
Signoria, via de’ Neri, and borgo Santa
Croce. Before the game there will be a
flag throwing show.
Flag throwing will also be the object
of a special competition held on May
10th in piazza della Signoria. Teams
from Florence, Gualdo Tadino, Massa
Marittima and Torrita di Siena will
compete for the best performance.
Admission to this event is free so
don’t miss it!
Fochi di
San Giovanni
The celebrations of June
24th end with a
big firework
display starting at 10pm,
best
viewed
from the Lungarno facing Piazzale
Michelangelo – but probably more fascinating
if seen from Ponte Santa Trinita, with Ponte
Vecchio for a backdrop. This is a very popular
event with the locals, who all rush back from a
day off at the seaside (shops and offices are
closed throughout the city for the feast of the
patron saint) to see the ‘Fochi di San Giovanni’.
MONNALISA
®
FIRENZE
Via del Corso, 66/r
tel. 055.216038 - 50122 Firenze
Azienda con Sistema di
Responsabilità Sociale Certificato
www.monnalisa-spa.com
[email protected]
FIRENZE - VIA CALZAIUOLI, 47R
FIRENZE - VIA DELLA VIGNA NUOVA, 28R
W W W.FURL A.COM
OutofTown between
Past & Present
Chianti
by Pietro Salvadori
USCIA ELECTA is a biennial
art program in the Chianti
area aiming to review the
relationship between art and landscape by inserting contemporary art
works in prominent locations of this
highly anthropized yet naturally charming and much celebrated surroundings. Since it started as an experiment back in 1996, Tuscia Electa has
hosted more than 30 leading contemporary artists.
T
Anyone visiting Chianti until July 6th,
will be able to enjoy this intriguing mix
of past and present and admire the
talent of a wide-ranging selection of
international artists.
The Tuscia Electa catalogue is also in
English. More info on
www.tusciaelecta.it
who exhibits…
Massimo Bartolini
Alicia Framis
Antony Gormley
Renée Green
Eva Marisaldi
Tony Oursler
Nicola Pellegrin
Cesare Pietroiusti
Franco Vaccari
…where
Impruneta
Greve in Chianti
San Casciano Val di Pesa
Tavarnelle Val di Pesa
Radda in Chianti
Castellina in Chianti
Gaiole in Chianti
Greve and Panzano in Chianti
Greve in Chianti
more on < vivifirenze.it >
Additionally from May 10th the side-event Innesto Doc 2003 at various sites
in ‘Panzano in Chianti will house a selection of works by young local artists.
Two special projects will bring Tuscia Electa to the city of Florence in June.
Thanks to the support of FirenzeMostre, the work of Massimo Bartolini will be
on display at the Forte Belvedere, while a video installation by Paola De Pietri
will be shown at Palazzo Strozzi.
Permanent exhibits from past
Tuscia Electa events can be
found in Greve (by Igor Mitoraj
and Heinrich Nicolaus), Gaiole
and Radda (by Leo Lionni),
Impruneta (by Giuseppe Ciccia)
and San Casciano (by Roberto
Barni, Mario Merz, Mauro
Staccioli and Betty Woodman).
How to get there: all participating
towns can be reached by bus services operated either by CAP (info
055.214637) or by Sita (freephone
800.373760)
< 10 >
San Martino Chiantigiano
The
fairy-tale
of Impruneta
An enchanted
world to discover
as reported by Lucy
2003
May 15th
Florence
,
e r y w egl ly.o u
v
g
n
i
o
,
g
m
s
o
i
n
D e a r tM
F l o r e n cc iet y ! I a m s e nf doin t h e
n
i
y
a
s
My such a great s speaking o verything
I t i s a i r y t a l e I w au l , j u s t l i k e e
the f :it is beautif
phone ere.
else h
pale flame lit up their faces, coloring their skin in golden and reddish hues.
Only the rustling of
the leaves broke the quiet of
the lukewarm and silent
night – a night that looked
promisingly long and full of
expectations: only a few
more minutes and it would
become the keeper of a big
secret….
A
verything had started the
day before, when little Leonardo, while playing
in his grandfather Ciccio’s attic, found a big
dusty book, thick, so thick, similar to the ones
that his grandfather kept in the showcase in his studio. And
that book was indeed the P-volume of that set, which his
grandfather thought had gone missing when he had moved
from Florence years back.
Leonardo started leafing through the pages of the big book:
it was full of painted and colored pictures!
E
San Martino Chiantigiano
uddenly the young
boy’s attention was
caught by the drawing of a well,
whose caption said: “The
Well of San Martino”. Yes, of
course, he knew that Well! It
was in the garden of the San
Martino restaurant, a place at
Impruneta just outside Florence,
along the ‘Chiantigiana’ road.
S
hat beautiful illustration was spoilt with blot: it
could be a wax stain or maybe the mark of a
teardrop. Under the picture was a note: “When
the full moon will be high up in the sky and a
little man with blue eyes will find the long lost pages again,
the picture will clear and two souls will see the light again.
T
Y
oung Leonardo rushed to inform his grandfather, who was immersed in thought by the fireplace. The old man stood up, kissed his
grandson, turned to
the window and
began to tell him
a fairy tale – his
own fairy tale. It
was on a winter
Sunday and he
was taking a
walk on the
grass next to
the Well.
There he met
two young
people: a
beautiful young woman
with big blue eyes and long dark hair and
a proud young man with broad shoulders and big hands.
They told him their sad love-story. Against her own will, the
girl had been promised as bride to a rich businessman from
Genoa. That was why they could only meet in secret by the
San Martino Well above Impruneta.
he grandfather was listening raptly to their
story when all of a sudden a chasm opened
in the ground and swallowed the girl. Her
lover’s search proved useless: the girl had
disappeared. The young man never stopped looking for his
beloved: he remained by the Well for months, hoping for
the young girl to reappear. He stayed there until his eyes
closed forever.
T
San Martino Chiantigiano
nd that was when, mysteriously, the writing in
the encyclopedia tome had appeared.
Leonardo, who was a bright young boy, wondered whatever that sentence scribbled in pencil might mean, and why just him – a young man with blue
eyes – should have found the book on a full moon…
A
W
ith a small flame and the moon as their
sole companions, an old man and his
grandson set out into the night to rejoin a
broken love. Suddenly they saw shadows next to the Well: the two lovers were rejoined and were
flying hand in hand towards the moon.
... Isn’t th
A n d I h a d astua c h a r m i n g s t o r y , m o m ?
restaurant me ch a lovely meal at the
I am sending ntioned in the fairy tal
derful sunset you a picture of the won e!
I saw from its
terrace.
Kisses,
Lucy
San Martino Chiantigiano
The Restaurant
All the most typical dishes from the Chianti area
Cured lard from Greve
Garlic bread with extra-virgin olive oil from Chianti
Beans cooked in a flask
Florentine steaks from Panzano
Mushrooms from San Polo
Fresh salad from the vineyards
and much more.
V
ery close to
Florence and
overlooking the Chianti hills,
the San Martino restaurant is
the place to enjoy all the
special recipes from traditional Chianti cuisine.
In a peaceful, warm and welcoming setting you can relax
with your friends and enjoy the breathtaking view from our windows,
or make yourself comfortable in the shade of the trees in our big garden, and spend delightful moments of pleasant living and great food.
In order to always provide the best in quality and freshness, our
menu is constantly updated with new dishes, prepared with fresh
seasonal ingredients.
We organize lunch and dinner business meetings
Wine and oil cellars
15 wine brands
We arrange wine and oil tastings
Our kitchen is always open from 10am till late
Reservations welcome
Closed on Mondays
Friday, Saturday and Sunday open all day
Tuesday, Wednesday and Thursday open evenings only
(will open lunchtime on request)
Ristorante
San Martino
Chiantigiano
How to reach us:
Motorway exit: Firenze
Sud (South Florence)
Direction: Greve
Location: Impruneta
Via Chiantigiana 6/a, Impruneta (FI) - Phone: 055.2301095
[email protected]
finding your way through it
text & photo by Maddalena Delli
F
Pasta dishes are less common here than elsewhere in Italy. Tuscan first courses are mostly
bean soups or bread-based preparations, all of
them a feat for vegetarians. They can be cooked like 'pappa al pomodoro' (bread and tomato soup)
and 'ribollita' (vegetable, bean and bread soup) - or
cold such as 'panzanella' (bread salad).
On the other hand, 'bistecca alla fiorentina' is the
ultimate treat for lovers of red meat. The real
thing is about one inch thick and grilled over an
open flame. Should the Italian term 'bistecca'
sound not wholly unfamiliar to your English ear,
you'd be only too right: the word is in fact a popularisation of what the locals heard English visitors call 'beef steak'! In case you do not like your
beef rare, a savoury barbecued alternative is 'rosticciana' (pork ribs), while a mouth watering side
dish might be a mixed platter of deep fried courgettes, artichokes, zucchini flowers and even
sage leaves. Should you feel adventurous
enough, other tasty main courses are 'trippa
alla fiorentina' (braised tripe with tomato sauce) or
game. Tuscans are jokingly called 'mangiafagioli'
(bean-eaters) for their love of beans. A traditional
way of cooking them is in a flask over a dying fire
until they reach a creamy consistency.
For desserts try 'zuccotto' (ice-cream sponge
cake) or 'cantucci' (almond biscuits from Prato)
dipped in sweet or dry Vin Santo. Worthy of
mention is 'pecorino' (sheepsmilk) cheese, ranging from creamy fresh to piquant mature. Try it
with pears or with honey, you'll be surprised!
more on < vivifirenze.it >
aithful to its peasant roots, Tuscan cooking relies on saltless bread, fresh local
ingredients, herbs and plentiful olive oil.
But where should you start picking when facing
your restaurant menu? Chicken liver 'crostini' are
the traditional starter. Or you might like some
'fettunta' (toasted bread with garlic and olive oil)
or a mixed platter of cured Tuscan meats.
Restaurants
A Tuscan
Menu
Leisure
Angiolino
V. Guelfa, 138r,
☎ 055.475292
Antico Fattore
Via Lambertesca 1r
☎ 055.288975
Baldovino Trattoria
V. S. Giuseppe, 22r
☎ 055.241773
Beccofino
P.zza Scarlatti, 1
☎ 055.290076
Cavolo Nero
Via dell’Ardiglione, 22
☎ 055.294744
Il Cibreo
V. del Verrocchio, 8
☎ 055.2341100
Coco Lezzone
Via Parioncino, 26r
☎ 055.287178
I’ Francescano
Largo Bargellini, 16
☎ 055.241605
I’ Bambino
Corso Italia, 35
☎ 055.2675612
I’ Garga
Via del Moro, 48r
☎ 055.2398898
Latini
Via Palchetti, 6r
☎ 055.210916
Lobs Fish restaurant
Via Faenza, 75r
☎ 055.287814
Momoyama (Japanese)
Borgo S.Frediano, 10r
☎ 055.291840
Natalino
B.go degli Albizi, 17r
☎ 055.289404
Osteria Centopoveri
Via Palazzuolo, 31r
☎ 055.218846
Osteria dell’Agnolo
B.go San Lorenzo, 24r
☎ 055.211326
Open Bar
Via de’ Bardi, 58r
☎ 055.214502
Pizzaiuolo
Via de’ Macci, 113r
☎ 055.241171
Trattoria Pandemonio
Via del Leone, 50r
☎ 055.224002
Trattoria 13 Gobbi
V.del Porcellana 9r
☎ 055.284015
Tre Merli
Via de’ Fossi, 12r
☎ 055.287062
< 15 >
Leisure
where to go for the 'hottest'
Summer nights
in Florence
vivi la notte
by Anna Magazzù
N
ightclubbing in Florence is
great fun at all times, but even
more so in the Summer!
Let's start with a quick tour of some
popular indoor venues which are
going to close soon (they will open
again early in the Fall for yet another
successful Winter season). You certainly can't miss the last few events
(until May 17th) at one of Florence's
favorite clubs for over twenty years:
Tenax. Famous internationally for its
glamour and fashion nights with Italian
and international guests, the club is
located outside the city center not far
from the airport (bus lines 29 or 30
will take you there, but you will need a
taxi to get back...).
In (or very close to) the city center,
Universale, Yab and Maracanà
are the most popular clubs with the
locals. Stairs surrounded
by glass walls will lead
you down to the Yab
disco club (around the
corner from the Odeon
Cinema; closed Wed. &
Sun. nights, will close in
mid-May), where you can
dine and dance in style:
remember, elegance is
the word here! Upon
entering the Maracanà
club you can't fail to
sense a kind of magic,
joyful and exotic atmosphere. Indeed, the place
is deservedly popular for
its Brazilian dinner
(restaurant open until
mid-June) and show
(until the end of June).
On the other side of the
Arno in via Pisana, the
Universale dance hall
(formerly a cult movie
theater) has been renovated into a truly fascinating and very stylish
venue, but unluckily for
you it will be closing for
the Summer early in May!
< 16 >
Back on the other side of the river, at
the Cascine Park - within easy walking distance of the city center - there
are two more popular clubs to visit:
Central Park and Rio Grande. The
good news is, you needn't rush in
order not to miss these two, because
not only do they never close, but they
will open their garden dancefloors as
soon as the weather allows. Nearby,
for the whole of May the Leopolda
Station offers dj nights for the length
of the Fabbrica Europa festival (more
details on page 3) in the fascinating
setting of an nineteenth century railway station.
What if you don't like clubs? Well, of
course there are plenty of cafés and
other such meeting places, often with
gardens: La Torre, Negroni, Zoe,
Elliot Braun, Lidò... In fact as the
temperatures go up and the heat takes
Leisure
Concerts
Jazz & Co in Santissima Annunziata
a grip on the city, more and more open air venues will launch their seasons. If you wish to mix
with the locals, don't miss these nightspots!
For the third year running, from 14th May piazza Santissima Annunziata will host Jazz & Co,
an open stage devoted to jazz and jazz-related
live music as well as classical, ethnic and
lounge music. One of the most charming
Renaissance squares in Florence and hardly
five minutes' walk from Piazza Duomo, every
evening at sunset the square will turn into a
charming outdoor bar, café and restaurant
open until 2am. There will also be some sideevents such as special evening openings of the
art gallery of the Ospedale degli Innocenti overlooking the square.
Do check the nightlife section on
< vivifirenze.it >
for full listings and addresses as well as regular
updates on forthcoming openings and events!
MAY
Angelo Branduardi
Sat. 3rd Teatro Verdi
Ottavo Padiglione
Sat. 3rd Auditorium Flog
Fiorella Mannoia
Tue. 6th Saschall
Planet Funk
Thu. 8th Saschall
Cristina Donà
Fri. 9th Saschall
Joe Jackson
Fri. 9th Politeama, Prato
Uri Caine
Sat. 10th Stazione Leopolda
Thievery Corporation
Mon. 12th Palasport
Stefano Bollani + O.R.T.
Wed. 14th Stazione Leopolda
Africa Unite
Thu. 15th Auditorium Flog
Peter Hammill
Sat. 17th Universale
Alberto Fortis
Sat. 24th Saschall
Cesare Cremonini
Tue. 27th Saschall
Stazioni Lunari
Thu. 29th Stazione Leopolda
Sexmob
Fri. 30th Stazione Leopolda
JUNE
Bruce Springsteen
Sun. 8th Stadio Franchi
Claudio Baglioni
Fri. 27th Stadio Franchi
Sergio Cammariere
Mon. 30th Villa Solaria, Sesto Fiorentino
JULY
Radiohead
Tue. 8th P.le Michelangelo
Jethro Tull
Fri. 11th Pistoia
Caetano Veloso
Tue. 15th Teatro Comunale
Paolo Conte
Thu. 17th Teatro Comunale
All concerts are in Florence
unless otherwise stated.
Tickets are available from
all Box Office Network
sales points, main shop in
via Alamanni, 39 near the
train Station - infoline and
credit card bookings
055.210804
www.boxoffice.it
< 17 >
Wellness
relief from the heat
is only a bus ride away
Take
a plunge
F
lorence can be a fairly hot city
and when it does get too sultry you may very well start
longing for some respite from it all.
The seaside is not too far, but a good
outdoor pool can also come in
handy. Of course it's also not such a
bad way of keeping fit for the summer
and getting a nice healthy-looking
suntan either. Never forget to store
your valuables in the lockers provided, and do not leave your belongings
unattended when you go for a swim.
Typical opening times would be 10am
to 6pm. Admission charges will be 56 Euros upwards.
Piscina Costoli
viale Paoli (Campo di Marte)
tel. 055.6236027 - bus lines 10 or 17
Piscina Le Pavoniere
viale della Catena 2 (Cascine Park)
tel. 055.362233 - bus line 17c
Piscina Nannini Bellariva
lungarno Aldo Moro 6 (Bellariva)
tel 055.677521 - bus line 14
Piscina Flog Poggetto
via M. Mercati, 24/B (Poggetto)
tel. 055.484465 - bus line 4
Policentro Zerouno
more on < vivifirenze.it >
via dei Caboto, 32 (Firenze Nova)
tel 055.4368819 - bus line 23
Piscina Happy Land
via B. Croce (Campi Bisenzio)
tel. 055.892500 - bus line 30
Centro sportivo Zodiac
via A. Grandi, 2 (Tavarnuzze)
tel. 055.2022888 - bus line 37
Piscina Delta Florence
via V. Emanuele, 1/a (Calenzano)
tel. 055.8876110 - bus line 2
< 18 >
Deck-chairs and beach umbrellas are
sometims available for rent. Where to
go? Here's what Florence has to offer...
The largest and most popular public
swimming complex in town, Costoli,
lies near the Stadium at Campo di
Marte and has three pools (one
Olympic-sized, one medium-sized
with a diving board, and a baby pool).
The place can be fairly crowded and
noisy, aspecially after local students
start their summer vacation in midJune, but the water slides make it
worth going!
Another city-managed facility is the
Nannini swimming center at Bellariva,
which offers the extra appeal of
evening openings on some days
(usually 8 to 11pm, call the reception
desk for details).
Although L-shaped and therefore not
so great for swimming, the most
charming pool in Florence is at the
Cascine Park and is called Le
Pavoniere. It is also the closest pool
to the city centre, and can easily be
reached with a nice walk in the shade
of the Park's ancient trees. The Flog
swimming pool in the Poggetto neighborood usually requires membership,
but in the summer it opens its doors
to non-members too.
In the box on the left you can find
details on all the above, as well as
additional addresses of pools in the
surroundings of Florence, including
info on how to reach them using Ataf
city buses.
G
O
lden View
PEN BAR
WINE BAR - PIZZERIA - RISTORANTE
Florence Via dei Bardi, 58R (Ponte Vecchio) Tel. 055.214502
open 11.30a.m. 02.00a.m. monday wednesday Jazz Music
In the historic centre of Florence
a restaurant offering modern
mediterranean cuisine where
genuine tastes and food can be
found, together with unique music
and atmosphere
VIA DE’ FOSSI 12r VIA DEL MORO 11r FIRENZE TEL. 055 287062
alwais open, on line reservation: www.3merli.com
TRATTORIA
Porcellana 9r
13 GOBBI ViaTel. del055.284015
Services
selected services for students' needs
Editor’s tips
ince 1985, Mandragora has
been specialising in the management of museum bookshops and now runs bookshops in
the Crypt of Santa
Reparata, Giotto’s
Campanile and
Opera del Duomo
Museum, Palazzo
Medici Riccardi
and the Brancacci Chapel.
Mandragora has also opened its own
shop in piazza Duomo, 50 (phone
055.292559) where you will find art
books, prints and reproductions of
famous masterpieces from Florentine
museums.
See also www.mandragora.it
more on < vivifirenze.it >
S
If you are going back
home soon and worry
about shipping your
extra luggage and
presents, Mail Boxes
Etc. is your best bet.
the world's largest
retail services franchise company is now
also in Florence in via
della Scala 13/r. They will ship anything
anywhere in the world door to door,
complete with packing service and
customs documents. Info 055.268173
email [email protected]
Internet Train is Italy's leading Internet
Point chain and it is based in Florence.
Services include internet broadband
connection, B&W/color printing, scanning, cd burning, film developing &
Handcrafted
Ice Cream,
Cakes, Crepes
Water Ice
Handsgemacht
Eis, Torten,
Granitas,
Crepes
Ice Cream Corner
Piazza S. Maria Novella 16 Firenze
< 20 >
printing, mobile
phone rental,
international
phonecards.
Special offers for
university students (ask at the desk).
Their locations are listed on
www.internettrain.it
The Neri Parrucchieri hair salon
belongs to the Bigart chain and offers
international students a 20% discount
off listed prices
on Tue/Wed/Thu.
The friendly qualified staff speak
English and use
the best international brands. Beauty care and tanning cabin are also available. Opening
hours are 9am-7pm Tuesday to
Saturday (call 055.686562 for an
appointment). The salon is in piazza
B. Pio, 49 and can be reached with
Ataf busses number 23.
Check www.bigart.it for more info.
Florence by bike is top in Florence for
bike rental and
bike tours. You
can choose
between city,
race, mountan
bikes and motorscooters. Guided
bike tours can also be booked here.
Check www.florencebybike.it for details.
The shop is open daily (including
Sundays and holidays) in via S. Zanobi,
122/r. Telephone 055/488992
Services
in & out of town by bus
Out’n’about
n Florence, city busses are operated by Ataf. Please note that if you are a
student and under 26 years of age, you can apply for a discounted
monthly bus pass.
A variety of companies operate regular services to other cities and towns in
Tuscany. This can be an inexpensive and highly convenient way of traveling. It
will also allow you to get acquainted with the area, enjoy some lovely countryside and – last but not least – to mix with the natives.
We have chosen a number of interesting destinations and how to reach them
(numbers refer to the carriers’ list).
I
1. ATAF (Florence city buses)
www.ataf.net
info kiosk: piazza Stazione
(on the piazza Adua side)
freephone 800.424500
4. CAP
www.capautolinee.it
largo Fratelli Alinari, 11
tel. 055.214637
2. SITA
www.sita-on-line.it
via Santa Caterina da Siena 15/r
freephone 800.373760
5. COPIT
www.copitspa.it
largo Fratelli Alinari, 11
tel. 055.21463/7
3. LAZZI
www.lazzi.it
piazza Stazione, 3/r
(on the corner of piazza Adua)
tel. 055.215155
6. FLORENTIA BUS
www.florentiabus.it
(several departure points
near piazza Stazione)
tel. 055.8490505 or 055.967024
Destination
Abetone (Pistoia Montains)
Arezzo
Borgo San Lorenzo
Certaldo
Empoli
Fiesole
Figline Valdarno
Greve in Chianti
Impruneta
Lucca
Montecatini
Montelupo Fiorentino
Pisa
Pistoia
Poggio a Caiano
Prato
San Casciano V. P.
San Gimignano
Scandicci
Scarperia
Sesto Fiorentino
Settignano
Siena
Viareggio (seaside)
Vinci
Volterra
Carrier
5
2-6
2-4-6
2
2-3
1
3-6
2
4
3
3
3-5
3
3-5
4-5
3-4
2
2
1
6
1
1
2
3
5
2
< 21 >
information for
students in Florence
schools, accommodation, services,
discounted bus pass for students under 26
Sant’Apollonia
information office
via San Gallo 25, Florence, Italy
tel. +39 055.2261366 / fax +39 055.2261368
Monday through Friday 10:00 am - 5:00 pm
in collaboration with
Provincia di Firenze
Azienda Regionale per il Diritto allo Studio
Universitario di Firenze
Agenzia per il Turismo
di Firenze