La Spezia
Transcript
La Spezia
La Spezia Gracefully charming 2 I t is a well known fact that to know a city inside out, a stroll on foot brings the most satisfaction. Our hurried lifestyle nowadays, can always have an improved quality by giving ourselves time to walk around a place, purely to enjoy the visual pleasures. 1 This goes for La Spezia too, it should be discovered without haste leaving from the jetty where the ferries are moored, called “Molo Italia”. Go through the exotic Public Gardens which are the pride of the city for their careful upkeep and flourishing flora. Then along Viale Diaz to the crossroad with Via Chiodo with its airy shaded arcades. Straight across is Via Prione, a lively pedestrian street in the heart of the old town. The Civico Theatre designed by Franco Oliva comes up on your left symbolising the elegant thirties. A little way on where the street narrows, below the length of wall that dates back to the beginning of the seventeenth century, what was once one of the entrances to La Spezia can be seen. This was in fact the entrance from the Naval Base to the walled city. 2 3 1 2 3 Via del Prione Garden along Promenade Fish Market & Food Market 3 Here we are in the heart of the town that is now a pedestrian way, and where traces of La Spezia in medieval renaissance and baroque times can be glimpsed and not to be missed on your way are the splendid solid Genoese doorways of the Doria Pamphili and Massa buildings. Carved stone decorates the houses all along Via del Prione and the surrounding side streets. A stop to admire the nearby Piazza S. Agostino gives a real feeling of La Spezia nowadays. Looking towards the sea, the buildings continue, these were originally built as rows of towers like soldiers defending the city and gave homes for the nobility in the baroque period. Towards the hillside there are postwar buildings that were erected around the 15th century convent of Sant’Agostino. 4 5 6 4 5 6 7 8 Promenade Morin Viale Mazzini Garden from hilltop 7 8 Piazza Sant’Agostino Arcade of via Cadorna 4 The San Giorgio Castle Back in Via del Prione and further along, there is Diocesan Museum, in the deconsacrated oratory of San Bernardino. In past times, travellers left the city from the Porta of San Bernardino or entered from the direction of Genoa, the Ligurian capital, having crossed the Foce pass. Beyond this point lay an area that was not open contryside but being rich in water sources, was agriculturally active. During 9 10 11 12 9 San George Castle 10 Steps 11 Saint Mary of the Assumption Church 12 Vincentian Convent today Amedeo Lia Civic Museum 5 the 17th and 18 th centuries windmills were active all around the large convent of the brotherhood of San Francesco da Paola. This is the place where the fascinating museum Amedeo Lia has recently been founded. But certainly the building that has the most standing in the historical urban plan is the San Giorgio Castle. In past times it was of major importance in the Genoese defence system, and is now home to the municipal archeological collection. The fort rests on a rise in the hillside, and can be reached by climbing the steps from Via del Prione, or by road along the hillside on Via XXVII Marzo. The castle was built and modified between the 14th and 17th centuries and is an interesting if complex example of fortified architecture. Little of the original fort still exsistis, this was built in two parts connected to one another. Parts of the original walls are still standing and stretch of the city wall which goes down to Piazza Sant’Agostino. The modification at the beginning of the 17th century has given the castle the appearence it has today. It now serves the city as a venue for a variety of cultural activities. 13 15 13 Entrance to Saint George Castle and walls 14 Seventeenth-century wall 14 16 15 Saint George and the Genoese Coat of Arms (Castle Entrance) 16 Sea View of Saint George Castle 6 Coming back down via the San Giorgio and Quintino Sella steps, we’re in La Spezia again, to discover some history over the last two centuries. The growth of the city arose from the days of the power seeking Savoia family. This city with its classical architecture, wide avenues and arcades mixes with its historical old town centre, and later comes up with elegant modern day architecture. 17 18 19 20 17 Monument in honor of Garibaldi 18 Seventeenth-century gardens 21 19 Malta Cross Palace 20 Music Band-stand 21 Arcade of Via Chiodo 7 The main entrance to the naval dockyard, opens onto Piazza Chiodo. A visit here is well worthwhile to see the Industrial Museum which was the pride and joy of modernism in the last century and is still a centre of activity nowadays. There are two aspects to nineteenth century Spezia, the technological side connected to the military development in the Gulf, and the residential facet that has given rise to the development of parks and public places. The Public Gardens that lie between the via Chiodo arcades and the palmlined seafront, are symbolic of the aesthetic growth of La Spezia. The botanical gardens were first designed in 1825 and are today well used by the citizenship. The city’s touches of liberty style can be seen in the Gardens mostly around via Chiodo, and in particular, the splendid bandstand that was erected in 1866. 22 22 Panoramic view of city 8 The Twentieth Century At the beginning of the 20th century and for ten years after, many elegant buildings appeared, both residential and public. These remain today as the most impressive urban aspect of La Spezia. Whilst walking around Piazza Verdi and then via XX Settembre and via XXVII Marzo, one should look up, not to miss a glimpse of decorative additions to the buildings. Painting, sculpture and bas relief abound as soft female forms, contorted animal shapes, and sturdy male figures, all silent immobile members of the population. The city has passed through various moments of development that can be seen in 23 24 25 26 23 Piazza Verdi & Post Office Building 24 Piazza Brin, Mirko Basaldella Fountain 25 Municipality Building 26 Piazza Europa & Cristo Re Cathedral 9 so many architectural styles from Liberty to Futurism, from deco to plain rationalism up to post war times when straight lines and formality in design where the rule. The Law Courts to the East of the city designed by Ignazio Gardella are a solid example of the latter style, and in front of this building, almost in contrast, a sculpture by Klein depicts man’s uncertainty. Museums certainly house most of the city’s archaeological and artistic history, but one can always be fascinated by artistic features on public buildings and churches. Just such an example can be seen in the glazed terracotta by Andrea della Robbia in Santa Maria Assunta in Piazza Beverini. In Villa Marmori now the Giacomo Puccini Music Academy in via XX Settembre, the rooms are flooded with light that filters through brightly coloured stained glass. In the Public Gardens near the Town Hall building, stands the impressive “Winged Victory” statue by A. del Santo. And not far away in piazza Verdi, the mosaics by Fillia and Prampolini decorate the wall of the Post Office tower, showing dynamic futuristic themes that depict a world racing against time in a technological age. 27 28 29 30 27 Government Palace of Franco Oliva 28 Details of Government Palace 29 Details of Villa Ceretti - Marmori 30 Details of Palace Fumagalli - Federici 10 31 33 32 34 The Amedeo Lia museum gained its name from its benefactor. In this 17th century Convento dei Paolotti, as well as a well furnished art collection, there are collections of jewellery, ivory, miniatures, glass and sculptures. The paintings are displayed in chronological order from 13th century Florence to excellent examples of 18th century views of Rome and Venice. And then, the ancient castle houses a museum that goes further back in time to preistoric and primitive eras. In the San Giorgio Castle, the museum adaptly houses the prehistoric and pri- 35 36 31 Coronation of the Vergin – Andrea della Robbia 32 Mosaic - Enrico Prampolini - Luigi Fillia 33 Details of window - Villa Ceretti - Marmori 34 A. Del Santo, Vittoria Alata 35/36 Saint George Castle - Archaeological Museum (findings from Luni) 11 mitive collection downstairs, and upstairs, the Roman collection. There are shining examples from the site in Luni and finds from medieval times. Through the castle, the Stele Statues (carved stones that go back to 4000 B.C.) stand on guard, reminding us of distant times. Then back the Ethnographic Museum, composed at the end of the 19th century by Giovanni Podenzana, where the main focus is on countrylife. At the Palazzina delle Arti, art exibitions change throughout the year, and there is also a curious museum of seals (Museo del Sigillo) within the same building that boasts the largest collection of its kind. Onto the Technical Naval Museum where an impressive collection of figureheads can be admired as well as glorious reminders of naval history, and model ships that give us a clear picture of the development of navigation. Other interesting collections, estabilished thanks to private donations to the city of La Spezia can be viewed at the Diocesan Museum, The National Transport Museum and the Museum of Modern Art (Museo d’Arte Contemporanea) which is still at the planning stage. 37 38 40 37 Figureheads - Naval Museum 38 Reliquary - Amedio Lia Museum 39 Annunciation - Amedeo Lia Museum 39 41 40 Art Building - Seal Museum 41 Ethnographic Museum - G. Podenzana 42 Contemporary Art Museum - CAMec 42 12 1 Carozzo Montepertico 9 Coste 3 Stra S. Lucia 2 Toracca Sup. Via S. Anna Ge Vailunga Guarsedo Sarbia a 8 4 Valdellora Scorza Via Carducci Rebocco me Scalina ne te lia l co Ita nfa le Mo Via F iu Via le Am en do la Via le Fie s ch i Pegazzano Vi a Via Proffiano Migliarina Chiappa n ov Toracca Inf. analetto Foce Via del C Marinasco Buggi 7 Fabiano Basso 5 B aiass qu Cin e Te rre Madonna dell’Olmo Fabiano Alto La Lizza rt Po en oV ere 4 FROM REBOCCO TO SANT’ANNA Partendo da via Monfalcone, si prende la scalinata Maggiola, poi via Maggiano per Toracca Inferiore e ancora su fino a Toracca Superiore. A sinistra inizia via Sant’Anna che porta al borgo di Sant’Anna e la sua chiesetta. Si percorre a ritroso la stessa strada fino a raggiungere la scalinata Maggiano per ritrovarsi in via Monfalcone a Rebocco. 5 FROM BUGGI TO MADONNA DELL’OLMO Leave from Viale Fieschi up to Buggi, and just beyond turn left to take the Sant’Anna bridlepath which rises as far as Fabiano Alto. The way to the Madonna dell’Olmo starts from the square in front of the Sant’Andrea church. Cross the road and after a short stretch of surfaced road, a paved footpath rises, keeping right you arrive at the Madonna dell’Olmo Sanctuary where the views are spectacular. Going back, take the same route as far as Fabiano Alto, then take the downward path along Via Scresa to get to Fabiano Basso. 6 FROM SAN VENERIO CHURCH TO SAN VENERIO Start from Via della Pieve then turn right into Via della Lobbia (part road and part footpath) and go up as far as Carozzo. Follow the footpath that runs alongside the road to the district of San Venerio. Carry on past the houses towards Ca’ de Corna where, on the right you find steps to Castelvecchio, these take you back to the San Venerio church. 13 Footpaths on the green hillsides around the town We have said that La Spezia is to be seen on foot. Now let’s look beyond the urban centre to the narrow dividing line between town and country, where we can climb along a choice of numerous footpaths on to the hillsides. Up, up, up, catching spectacular glimpses of seascapes, landscapes and even mountains. ozzo S. Venerio 6 Pieve di S. Venerio Carducci 1 ALTA VIA OF THE GULF This network of paths connect Bocca di Magra (Ameglia) to Porto Venere; itineraries can vary, venturing along the hillsides which crisscrosses the Gulf of La Spezia, through villages, woods, protected areas all in a territory engulfed with artistic history and environment. Pitelli 10 Ler ici 2 FROM LA CHIAPPA TO MARINASCO PARISH CHURCH Leave from via Genova (n° 368), where a footpath goes to the bridlepath of Via Salto del Gatto as far as Guarsedo. The path keeps rising and passes near the small church of Santa Lucia and then turning left reaches Via Costa di Santa Lucia (an ancient medieval track). Cross Via Montalbano to Coste (nearby the monastery of S. Maria del Mare). From Coste a footpath goes down to Stra. Go along Via Montalbano towards the Foce and join the footpath that leads to the ancient S. Stefano church of Marinasco. The descent continues along Via Guercia as far as via Bedicenti and back to Via Genova. 3 FROM MARINASCO TO SANT’ANNA From the Marinasco Church along Via Montalbano as far as the Foce. Cross the Via Aurelia and take Via Parodi to Sant’Anna. 7 FROM PEGAZZANO TO BIASSA From suburban Pegazzano, following the route that leads to the historical centre of Biassa, it is possibile to reach the area of Tramonti, part of the Cinque Terre National Park. 8 VALDELLORA - SARBIA From Valdellora, on the outskirts, the route goes back uphill to the historical village of Sarbia, with a panoramic view of the Gulf. 9 VAILUNGA - MONTEPERTICO At the back of the town, from the neighbourhood of Vailunga the road leads to the hill area of Montepertico. 10 EXCURSION - PITELLI The hillside area of Pitelli, as far back as 1900s there were for many of this area a direct path to the sea; today the itinerary winds among the woods with panoramic views of the Gulf, climbing to Monte Canarbino the fort which dates back to 19th century descends quite nicely to Lerici. 14 Along the journey from Chiappa to Salto del Gatto one arrives at the church of Marinasco, an important building decorated with gothic reliefs, from the square one can see the Tuscany Region. Once at the footfall of the Foce, poised between the sea of the Gulf and the woods of the Vara Valley, one can reach Sant’Anna and back to the city near the Toracche, an interesting fortified shelter with late medieval foundations. Then again Maggiano which is on a hillock injects into La Spezia. On the east facing slope you can go up Via della Lobbia starting from the romanesque double apsed San Venerio church. Pass alongside villa Da Passano to reach Carozzo and from here to the district of San Venerio. The Cinque Terre offers other choices of footpaths in the Gulf and a part of the National Park, the area around Tramonti, is within the La Spezia town council. To reach the Cinque Terre, one must follow the footpaths that go from Biassa down to Fossola where there is a tiny church dedicated to the Guardian Angel (Angelo Custode). From here, as one looks out to distant horizons on the sea, a footpath can be glimpsed linking Monasteroli and Schiara and up to Campiglia. 43 44 45 46 43 View of La Spezia from Marinasco 44 Stair way to “Salto del Gatto” 45 Glance at Tramonti - from Palmaria and Tino Island Side 46 Romanesque Church of San Venerio 15 The culinary arts in La Spezia bring together the fruits of the land and sea, in a surprising but tasty way, anchovies and potatoes, or cuttle fish and fresh greens for example. The sea might offer fresh Mediterranean fish, sea bass octopus and mussels, and salted cod can be prepared in crispy batter or in a scrumptious sauce (stoccafisso). Just as mouthwatering are the dishes from the countryside and the hillsides, such as homemade herb tarts and ravioli. The olive oil is of course excellent in these parts and adds a finishing touch to a tasty bowl of “mesc-ciua” a local soup made with chick peas and spelt (a type of wheat). Walking through the town centre, whiffs of this soup and “farinata” waft past to whet our appetites for a taste of these specialities made in La Spezia. 47 Salvatore Marchese 49 48 51 50 52 47 “Mesc-ciua” 48 Fish Soup 49 Chick-pea Flour Pie 50 Fresh Fish of the Gulf 51 Mussels - from the Gulf 52 Saffron - Campiglia 16 The Gulf and the open sea San Venerio, the courageus hermit lived his life fearlessly on the open sea. The coastline of the Gulf has carved its way around the bay, leaving sheer rocky drops, interspersed with inlets and coves. Waves lap harshly around the islands while inland, flourishing flora thrives inspite of inaccessible coastlines. In early medieval times, following the saint, the stony islands of Tino and Tinetto became religious settlements, and there had also been Christian proclamation in Porto Venere since the times of Gregorio Magno in the 6th century. The west coast is rocky and less populated than across the bay, where Lerici and its pisano-genoese castle are linked with noble Sarzana, the Val di Magra and the coast. The gulf embraces the islands of Porto Venere and stretches on the opposite side to the rocky, purple streaked Punta Bianca: at the centre of this embrace lies La Spezia. 53 54 55 53 Amerigo Vespucci Tall Ship near Scola Tower 54 View of Tino Island from Palmaria Island 55 Panoramic View of Gulf 17 TRADITIONAL & RELIGIOUS EVENTS: 56 San Giuseppe, Patron Saint of the city (March 19th) From Square to Square (April) Liguria da Bere (end of June) Jazz International Festival (July) Palio del Golfo (1st Sunday in August) San Venerio, Patron Saint of the Gulf (September 13) La Fattoria in città (last Sunday of November) Cercantico, antique fair (1st Sunday of every month except for July and August) Festa della Marineria (June 2011 - biennial) EVENTS/MANIFESTAZIONI ONLINE www.turismoprovincia.laspezia.it 57 58 59 60 56 “Liguria da Bere” Festival 57 San Venerio Procession 58 The Farm in the City 59 Feast of Saint Joseph 60 Boat Race in the Gulf 18 USEFUL TELEPHONE NUMBERS - LA SPEZIA Town Hall City Council Tourism Service Beghi Civic Library U. Castagna I.T. Library Mazzini Civic Library University Civic Theatre Amedeo Lia Civic Museum Art Gallery - Seal Museum CAMEC (Modern and Contemporary Art Centre) S. George Castle (Archaeological Museum U. Formentini) Diocesan Museum and Museum of Ethnographyc “G. Podenzana” Naval Museum Transport Museum Boat trip Agency Harbour Offices Transport Agency A.T.C. Train Station Public Swimming Pool Sports Centre Local Health Centre City Police Carabinieri Welfare Assistance Post Office Taxi - Radio Taxi Youth and Multimedia Cultural Centre - D. Ruggiero Youth Hostel “Tramonti” Campervan Parking Area P.zza Europa, 1 Via Fiume, 207 Trasversale Via del Popolo, 61 Via del Popolo, 61 C.so Cavour, 251 Via dei Colli, 90 P.zza Mentana Via del Prione, 234 Via del Prione, 236 P.zza C. Battisti, 1 Via XXVII Marzo Via del Prione, 156 tel tel tel tel tel tel tel tel tel tel tel tel V.le Amendola, 1 Via Fossitermi, 1 Via Don Minzoni, 13 V.le Italia, 4 P.zza Chiodo, 7 P.le Medaglie D’Oro Via Monfalcone, 4 Via della Pianta tel tel tel tel tel tel tel tel tel/Fax Via XXIV Maggio, 139 tel Via Lamarmora, 17 tel Via Generale dalla Chiesa, 1 tel Via Carducci tel P.zza Verdi tel tel Via Monteverdi, 117 (Fossitermi) tel Via F. Filzi, 110 (Biassa) tel Loc. Pagliari tel Local Touristic System CinqueTerre & Riviera Spezzina c/o Township Via Telemaco Signorini, 118 19017 Riomaggiore www.stl5terre.it - [email protected] 0187 7271 0187 745627 0187 513295 0187 599354 0187 738279 0187 751265 0187 757075 0187 731100 0187 778544 0187 734593 0187 751142 0187 258570 0187 783016 313 8043639 - 335 5451474 0187 732987 0187 258101 800 322 322 0187 892121 0187 702066 0187 510869 0187 564238 0187 5331 0187 7261 0187 5911 0187 564001 0187 258431 0187 523523 0187 713264 0187 758507 331 7233910 Local Touristic System Golfo dei Poeti, Val di Magra e Val di Vara Tel. 0187 733525 - 0187 763253 - Fax 0187 733525 www.stl.sp.it - [email protected] La Spezia Province - Tourism Service · Viale Mazzini 47 - Tel. 0187 7421 · Fax 0187 770908 www.provincia.sp.it - [email protected] IAT - TOURISTIC INFORMATION & RECEPTION OFFICE & LOCAL TOURIST OFFICES LA SPEZIA Viale Italia, 5 Tel. 0187 770900 Fax 0187 023945· [email protected] c/o Railway Station P.le Medaglie D’Oro Tel. 0187 718997 · Fax 0187 023945 Brugnato c/o Highway entrance area Tel. 0187 896526 Fax 0187 896944 100% Ecological Paper 19 Connections by Land/Sea/Air Connections by road: Motorway A12 - Genova-Livorno; Motorway A15 - La Spezia-Parma; S.S. n. 1 Aurelia; S.S. n. 62 del Passo della Cisa; S.S. n. 63 del Passo del Cerreto; S.S. n. 331 - S.S. n. 330 - S.S n. 530 - S.S. n. 370. Connections by rail: Trains for all destinations leave from the Central Station La Spezia Connections by air: International Airport “C. Colombo” - Genova - Tel. 010/60151 - Km 100 International Airport “G. Galilei” - Pisa - Tel. 050/849300 - Km 90 Airclub Luni Via Alta Vecchia S. Lazzaro Sarzana - Tel. 0187/673180 - Km 18 Bus services: Services throughout the province excluding the Cinque Terre and Riviera apart from Volastra (Riomaggiore), Azienda Trasporti Consortile (A.T.C.) - Information: everyday (holydays included) from 07.00 am to 07.30 pm toll free number 800 322 322; from 05.15 am to 07.00 am and from 07.30 pm to 02.00 am Tel. 0187 522511 - Services for Toscana Emilia - Trentino: (January/March-July/August) - Lorenzini S.r.l. - Via Larga, 105 - Ortonovo - Tel. 66804 Connections by sea: Golfo della Spezia - Cinque Terre - Tigullio - Versilia CONSORZIO MARITTIMO TURISTICO 5 TERRE GOLFO DEI POETI Via Don Minzoni, 13 - 19121 · La Spezia - Tel. 0187 732987 Fax 0187 730336 www.navigazionegolfodeipoeti.it TORINO MILANO GENOVA - SAVONA RAPALLO - GENOVA MILANO BOLOGNA PARMA 2 RA VA A15 A A S. STEFANO M. M IL L GEN LA SS 30 GR PA RM A1 3 N° MA SP EZIA LA SPEZIA - GENOVA A12 CEPARANA OVA IA N° EZ SS NO VEN M PA R U R I A I G VA NO GE Z IA SPE LA BO P IS A LOG F IR NA EN ZE RO MA LA LA SPEZIA E Z IA A 1 SP OR RA A15 O SS N° 62 AG °1 N SS 1 33 N° SS N° 3 31 AU TO LERICI 0 SARZANA LA SP EZ IA -R OM 2 A1 53 DA N° RA SS ST BIASSA CI TE NQU LE RRE E VA NT O RIO SS MA N° GG 37 IOR 0 E - LIV M SS SS N° 1 AN A12 PORTO VENERE BOCCA DI MAGRA Publication realized by: Provincia della Spezia Servizio Turismo Service direction: dr. Marco Casarino, Dirigente del Servizio Editorial coordination: dr. Sabrina Cipriani, Responsabile Unità Organizzativa Promozione/Editoria Collaboration: Antonio Protopapa (Editoria), Susanna Cuccureddu, Concetta La Placa (Amministrazione) Viale Mazzini 47 - 19121 La Spezia - Tel. 0187 7421 Fax 0187 770908 www.provincia.sp.it - [email protected] Text: Andrea Marmori & Salvatore Marchese Iconographic research and page layout: B&B Grafi ca Digitale S.r.l. Photographs: Archivio Regione Liguria, Archivio Fotografico della Provincia della Spezia A CARRA LUCC RA PISA A FIREN VERS ZE ROMAILIA Archives - Diocesan Cultural Estates Archives – Province of La Spezia - Photos Other Photographs: Walter Bilotta, Sergio Fregoso, Claudia Galli, Dina Nobili, Davide Palummo, Enrico Amici, Federigo Salvadori, Angelo Barberis, Davide Marcesini Extended Thank you: Alda Betucchi & Silvia Cavallini Edition 2010 · © Provincia della Spezia Offset and photo printing: www.bebgraficadigitale.it Printing: La Zincografica Fiorentina (FI) Traslated by: Catherine Bonanini Cover photograph: Promenade Morin Back cover: Amerigo Vespucci Tall Ship in the Gulf of Poets Provincia La Spezia Turismo (Group) After reading this brochure, don’t discard it, but pass it on to a friend