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=ERENCES:
J arrett A. (1986) Ageing of the Mucous Membranes, Cosmetic Dermatology, Voi. 2, Ed. by P. Morganti, F.J.G. Ebling, Rome.
Bruno I, Fischetti C, lnghirami P, Senatori R, Bac icalupi A . (1991) C02 laser surgery of the lower genital traci in women:
Jlts of post operative treatment with vitamin A+E gelatin mixture J. Appl. Cosmetol., 9, 73-76 • 3) • Morganti P, Lanzone A ,
~rl L. (1998) A new diffusion system through the mucous membranes, skin and hair, J. Appl. Cosmetol.. 16, 45-50. 4) • nzano Ferraris AM , Morganli P. (1999) Essential fatty acids forthe epidermal barrierhomeostasis: stability and safety.. C &
'orldwide, 8, 32-34 • 5) • Cornelli U. (2000) Fluid diffusion System in the treatment of aging mucous membranes, In: New
1ds in Cosmetic Science, Conference Proceedings, Verlag, H. Ziolkowsky GmbH, pp. 44-50 - 6) - Beyer N, Oriller H, Bunger
ZOOO) Ectoin an innovative, multifunctional active substance l or the cosmetic industry, SOFW- Joumal, 126, 26-29 - 7) 1lana F, Dionisi B, Lippa P, Ronca S. (2003) Fisiologia e Omeostasi del distretto vulvo-vestibolo-vaginale, In Trattato di
)/ogia Vulvare, voi. I, pag.47-60, SEE- Firenze
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Trimestrale di Dermatologia Cosmetologica
Contents
Originai Laboratory Studies
1 Transdermal Treatment of EPF by means of Dermoelectroporation
M. Cavallini, A Massirone, M. Papagni
11
Evaluation of the Efficacy of a Cosmetic Treatment Containing
Nandu oil Using Sensory and lnstrumental Methods
M. E. Parente, G. Ares, A G6mbaro
29
The Effects on the Skin of a New Fractional Laser. Macroscopical
and Histological Examination
P. Mezzana, G. Coppola
Special Reports
35
All For Cosmetics 2007 AFC Conference
Polish Society of Cosmetic Chemists - Press Office
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Cosmeceutical, Nutraceuticals and Biofunctional Textiles for a
better quality of our lite: a meeting on Wellbeing in Beijing
P. Morga nti
XVI I Announcements
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J. Appl. Cosmetol. 26, 1-9 (January/March 2008)
TRANSDERMAL TREATMENT OF EPF BY MEANS OF
DERMOELECTROPORATION
Maurizio Cavallini', Alberto Massirone', Marco Papagni'
' Plastic Surgery Unit, ltalian Diagnostic Centre, 20131 Milan, ltaly.
2
Professor Alberto Massirone, AMIEST, Milan, ltaly.
' Plastic Surgery Unit, l.R.C.C.S Galeazzi Orthopaedic lnstitute, 20161 Milan ltaly.
Received: 6 September, 2007
Key words: Edemotofibrosc/erotic ponniculitis; Dermoe/ectroporotion;
Summary
One of the ways of treating EPF (edematofibrosclerotic pa nnic ulitis) is to carry out cycles of intradermal mesotherapy involving the injection of simple drug cocktails with lipolytic and vaso-protective action. The authors decided to verify the possibility of administering the same drugs transcutaneously by means of de1m oelectroporation. This method consists of the application to the skin of special-designed drug-delivery units that emit contro lled , low-intensity electrical impulses, thus causing
the ope ning of partic ul ar intercellular cutaneous channels (hydroelectric pores) through which the
acti ve molecules are transmitted. The following repo1t provides the history of 23 cases chosen for
EPF treatment of the lower limbs (trochanteric areas) with weekly application of a lipo lytic and vasoprotecti ve drug cockta il. The final results confirm the effectiveness of dermoelectroporation fo r the
transcutaneous administration of drugs used for the locai reduction of EPF and of localized adiposity.
Riassunto
U na delle strategie per trattare I' EPF ( pa nnicolite ede matofib rosclerotica) è di impostare cicli di
mesoterapia intradermica somministrando miscele farmacologiche di sostanze con azione lipolitica e
vasoprotetti va . Gli autori hanno deciso di verificare la possibilità di somministrare gli stessi identici
farmaci attraverso la via transcutanea con l'uso della dermoelettroporazione .
Questo metodo consiste nell'applicazione sulla cute di uno strumento veicolante farmaci, appositamente progettato, che e mette impulsi elettrici controllati e a bassa intensità, proc urando l'apertura d i
particolari canali cutanei intercellulari (pori idroelettrici) attraverso i quali le molecole vengono trasportate.
Lo studio c he segue raccoglie la storia clinica di 23 casi selezionati per il trattamento dell' EPF degli
arti infe riori (area trocanterica) con applicazione settimanale di un cocktail a base di sostanze lipoli-
Transdermal treatment of EPF by means of dermoelectroporation
tiche e vasoprotettive.
I risu ltati finali confermano l'efficacia della dermoelettroporazione per la veicolazione transcutanea
di farmaci utili zzati nel trattamento localizzato della EPF e delle adiposità locali zzate.
2
M. Cavallini, A. Massirone, M. Papagni
INTRODUCTION
extent that it has recei ved FDA approvai.
Method used for the
Edematofibrosclerotic panniculitis (EPF) is a
administration
of the drug
degenerative process of the subcutaneous adi pococktail
se panniculis that results in a structural alteration
of connective tissue. In add ition to lymphatic
The transdermal adm inistration of drugs is done
venous insufficiency in the lower lim bs, this
by means of a preventi ve m icrodermoabrasion ,
condition is characteri zed by stasis of microcirthe purpose of which is to lower the impedance
c ulation in subcutaneous connective tissue, with
of the skin , and by means of pulsed io ntophorethe farmation of intracell ul ar edema . The presis, with a waveform similar to that used in elecsence of the latter leads to hype rtrophy and
troporation but with controlled, lower intensity
hyperplas ia of the collagen fibres th at normally
surrou nd adipocytes, with subseq uent vessel
in order to ensure penetration of the drug cocktail. lt causes intercellular channels (known as
strangulation , alteration of metabolic exchanges
hydroe lectric pores) to open and remain open far
and tissue sufferi ng, as wel l as stasis of toxic
a
few seconds , enabl ing the passage of chemical
catabolites. This process evolves into a fibrosis
substances and drugs.
that soon becomes a fibrosclerosis, involving the
The medicai dev ice using this me thod is the
farmation of micro- a nd macronod ules responsiUltrapeel Transderm Meso System (MATTIOLI
ble far the generalized skin roughness known as
"orange peel". Although there is a hereditary
ENGINEERING), which consists of three components:
component in the etiopathogenesis of EPF, it is
- a d isposable tip far the microdermoabrasion of
undenia ble that conditions such as postura ) altepre-steri li zed corundum crystals;
rations, e ndocrine dysfunctions, weight increase,
- a precision liquid-d ispenser that di stri butes the
smoking, estroprogestogenic treatment, improdrug cocktail at variable speeds (the dispenser
per die t, e tc., e ncourage its manifestation. One
we used distributed 0.5 ml/min .);
therape utic approach to EPF that has proven
- a tip equ ipped with vibrati ng electrodes that
effective is locai intradermal treatment (LIT)
em it electrical impu lses from I to 5 mA (the
(mesotherapy) with li polytic, vaso-active, antiimpul se leve! we used was 4/5 mA).
edemagenic substances. This technique involves
Many studies have been reported in the literatunumerous microinjections with 4-mm long, 30re for the admi nistration of micro- (amino acid)
G needles in affected areas, with inevitable
disco mfort, such as: pain , redness, burning, posand macromolecules such as hyalu ronic acid (2)
(3) , collagen and lidocaine (4), hepari n (5) (6)
sible microinfect ions, itchy red swell ing lasting
and even type-A botuli n toxin (about to be publisevera) days and micro-haematomas. With a
shed).
view to eliminating and/or reducing these side
Far this reason , it was our view that there were
effects, an alte rnative method was considered
technical and scientific bases far using it in the
involving the non-injective transcutaneous pastreatment of EPF.
sage of molecules, a technique known as dermoelectroporation (I ) . This technique derives
MATERIALS ANO METHODS
from the well-known electroporation technique
developed by American dermatologists in 1970 .
23 fornaie patients aged between 26 and 52 years
Since then , it has been sign ificantly improved
(average age: 35) affected by second- and thirda nd , recently, biotechnologically refi ned , to the
3
Transdermal treatment of EPF by means of dermoelectroporation
degree EPF were selected. The exclusion criteria
adopted were cigarette consumption (more than
10), cu rre nt locai or systemic pharmacological
treatment and/or suc h treatment carried out
with in three months of the recruitment and other
aesthetic treatments under way.
The patients were examined in upright posture to
assess the presence of skin roughness, chromatic
alte rations (dyschro mia, hyperpigmentation) of
the skin , skin pallor, teleang iectasia a nd/or
micro-varicosity or the presence of stretch
marks. After palpation , in order to assess hypothermal variations in the areas concerned and the
presence of fine granule micro-nodules at the
lower levels, a thermographic exami nation was
made of a li the patients in order to determine the
extent and seriousness of damage to cutaneous
and hypodermal microcircul ation and to determine precisely the extent of the EPF. Ali of the
patients were fo und to be within second- and
third-degree clinica! and instrumental parameters. Digitai photographs were taken in metrically graduated upri ght posture, anterior, posterior
and faterai, pre- and post-treatment.
The areas treated were the trochanteric areas.
The circumferences of these areas were measured in graduated centimetres in upright posture.
The patients were subjected to UT on the left
side, wi th 4 -mm , 30-G needles, and to dermoelectroporation on the left s ide.
The drug cocktail, used on both sides, consisted
of:
- in 11 patients: I ml aminophy lline + 2 ml
Lymdiaral + 2 ml Venon
- in 12 patients: l ml aminophyll ine + I ml Lcarnitine + 2 ml Yenon.
For the dermoelectroporation method, the drug
cocktai l, in 5-ml syringes, was released into the
trochanteric cutaneous area by means of a variable-speed dispenser (0.5 ml/min.).
The patients were prohibited from havi ng massages and/or lymph draining during the 72 hours
fo llowing the treatme nt. They were also supplied
4
with a clinica! diary in which they were asked to
make note of any side effects or complications
a nd to make a final assessment of the results.
RESULTS
The results were collated three months after the
beginning of the treatment and were examined
using subjective, objecti ve and instrumental criteria.
From a subjective point of view, the patients did
not referto any complication or side effect from
the treatment. They were provided wi th a quartile assessment scale (0 = no resul t, l from O to
25% improvement, 2 from 25 to 50% improveme nt, 3 from 50 to 75% improvement, and 4
from 75 to I 00% improvement) to be completed
independently by both the patients and the study
personnel at the end of the treatment.
O vera li , the results were satisfying: 13 4 th leve!,
7 3rd leve! and 3 2nd leve) as far as the patients
were concerned and slightl y more criticai as far
as the study personnel were concerned (I 1 4th
leve!, 9 3rd leve! and 3 2nd leve!) . From a n
instrumental point of view, the final thermographic exam was repeated and showed a reduction
in extent and seriousness of damage to the cutaneous and hypode rmal microcircu la tion wi th a
reduction of skin rough ness and granularity on
both visual inspection and palpation.
Comparative examination of the digitai photographs showed reduction of skin blemishes, w ith
improveme nt in the profile of the trochanteric
fine. The orthostatic measurements showed a
metric reduction of approximately 3.8 cm in
both areas, without significant statistica! variation between the right side treated with dermoelectroporation a nd the left side treated with LIT.
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M. Cavallini, A. Massirone, M. Papagni
DISCUSSION
m1cro- and macromolecules such as lidocaine
(4), polydeoxyribonucleotide (7) and hyaluronic
acid (2) (3).
At the treatment leve!, edematofibrosclerotic
The
treatment strategy focused on aminophyllipanniculitis (EPF), more commonly known as
ne,
given
that it is recognized as the drug wi th
cellulitis, is a very demanding test-bench due to
the
greatest
lipolytic effectiveness, due to its abithe multiple etiological factors. It must in fact be
lity
to
cause
the breakdown of triglycerides into
considered with in the framework of complex
glycerol
and
fatty acids . Furthermore, phosphometabolic disorder affecting the adipose tissue,
rodiesterase inhibition promotes deactivation of
the major defect of which is an increase in, and
cyclical adenosine monophosphate (cAMP) and
subsequent sclerosis of, the volume of adipocytes, associated with a cascarle of combined, prolongation of lipid hydrolytic activity. The
addition of horse-chestnut extract (Venon) proaggravating locai complications. LIT is certainly
motes microcirculation, which is often comprothe most common treatment used but it is not
mised
due to the hypoxic reduction caused by
without side effects, including the pain of the
adipomegaly.
The innovative pharmacological
micrornJections
and
locai
erythema.
approach
was
the
use of L-carnitine, a substance
Dermoelectroporation is an innovative technical
identified in 1905 and synthesized from amino
alternative applicable to treating EPF. This study
acids
(methionine and lysine), and of which the
is the first observational study in the literature of
RDA
has not been established and the negative
its use. Dermoelectroporation is a method that
interactions
of wh ich with other drugs and vitaexplo its a discovery made by a number of
mins
is
not
known.
American dermatologists in the early 1970s: an
It is a natural constituent of cells, in which has a
electrical impulse applied for a briefly over a
key
role in the use of lipidic substrates occurs.
sufficient period of time causes alteration of cellular-membrane polarization. The cellular mem- The scientific premise for its use in this study is
the fact that L-carniti ne is the only vector by
brane becomes more permeable to various molemeans of which fatty acids are able to cross the
cules due to the open ing of particolar intercellumitochondrial
membrane and be sent for final
lar channels . The method has been perfected due
beta-oxidation.
In fact, in order for the fatty
to development of the technique and to further
ac
ids
deriving
from
lipolysis induced by am inoresearch, confirmed by more than 4500 internaphylline
to
be
demolished
, they must move from
tio nal scientific studies published in the literatuthe
cytoplasm
to
the
mitochondria
.
re, and has led to the dermoelectroporation
This is favoured by the presence of L-carnitine,
technique (Ultrapeel Transderm Meso System,
wh ich enables the fatty acids activated (acylcodeveloped by MATTIOLI ENGINEERING).
enzyme
A) to cross the internal mi tochondrial
This technique differs from other methods and
membrane
and to be oxidized by means of the
from classica! iontophoresis because of the chaformation
of
actylCoA and insertion into the
racteristics of the electrical wave and of the low,
Krebs
cycle.
Normally,
the L-camitine added to
controlled intensity (1 -5 mA) , which does not
the
mesotherapeutic
cocktail
by means of LIT
provoke the cellular lyses caused by high electriinjection
results
in
a
marked
burning
sensation
cal intensity and wh ich causes the opening of
hydroelectric pores, that is , electrical "portals" to the extent that the patient is unable to continue
the treatment. With the DEP technique, this
throug h which biologically active substances
inconvenience
is attenuated while the desired
can be made to penetrate. This is confirmed by
therapeutic
effect
is obtained. This is confirmed
recent studies, which have proven the passage of
7
Transdermat treatment of EPF by means of dermoetectroporation
by the clinica] results obtained a nd whic h are
essentially superirnposable for the two techniques (LIT and DEP). DEP has been confirrned as
a valid, alternative method for the transcutaneous passage of micro- and macromolecules and
as an alternative to the injective method. It has
been shown to be of particular value in pain treatment, physiotherapy, orthopaedics, rheurnatology and sports medicine. But it is particularly
its ability to cross the cutaneous and adipose
layer that has opened up new possibilities for
dermatologica! and aesthetic application, providing practitioners with a wide range of possibilities in the use of various molecules, including in
association, as in the study presented.
AKNOWLEDGMENTS
We would like to thank Dr. Cinzia De lulio for
her scientific collaboration.
8
M. Cavallini. A Massirone. M Papagni
References
1) De Bartolo HM. (2005) Comparison of Mattio li Iontophoresis, Mesosystems, the U225 and
Man ua l Injection. Illinois Society of Ophthalmology and Otolaryngology. voi. 9, no. 1: 1-3
2) Ruggiero M, Pacini S, Gulisano M. (2006) Transdermal Deli very of Hyaluron ic Acid by Pulsed
Current Iontophoresis . America Academy of Dermatology, 64"' A nnual Meeting, Poster no.
P 1125, Dermatopharmacology/Cosmeceuticals Category.
3) Ruggiero M, Pacini S, Gulisano M. (2008) Pulsed Current Iontophoresis of Hyaluronic Acid in
Living Rat Skin. Journal of Dermatologica/ Sciences, about to be published.
4) Pacini S, Peruzzi B, Gulisano M, Menchetti S, Morucci G, Cammarota N, Renzi S,
Bernabei GF. (2003) Qualitative and Q ua ntitative Analys is of Transdermal Deli very of D ifferent
B iological Molecules by lontophoresis . ltalian Journal of Anatomy and Embryology, voi. 108,
supp. 2, no.3: 127.
5) Pacini S, Peruzzi B, Gulisano M, Menchetti S, Morucci G, Cammarota N, Renzi S,
Bernabei GF. (2004) Transdermal Deli very of Heparin by Means of A ltemate-Current Skin
Electroporation. Italian Journal of Anatomy and Embryology, voi. 109, supp. 1, no.3: 223.
6) Pacini S, Punzi T, Gulisano M, Cecchi F, Vannucci V, Ruggiero M. (2005) Transdermal
Deli very of Hepar in Using Pulsed C urrent Iontophoresis. Pharmaceutical Research. pp. I-7.
7) Cavallini M. (2006) H igh Concentration Polynucleotides: one year of experience in the
Cutaneous Rejuvenation -Abstract Book XXVII National Conference SIME pag. 40.
Author Address:
Marco Papagni MD.
Pla stic Surgery Unit
IRCCS Galeazzi Orthopaedic lnstitute
Milan, ltaly.
Email: [email protected]
9
J Appl. Cosmetol. 26, I 7-28 (Jonuary/Morch 2008)
EVALUATION OF THE EFFICACY OF A COSMETIC
,
TREATMENT CONTAINING NANDU OIL USING
SENSORY ANO INSTRUMENTAL METHODS
-
Morfo Emma Parente', Gast6n Ares2, Adriana G6mbaro'
' Cosm etic Chemistry, Department of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Faculty of Chemistry. Universidad de la
Republica, Montevideo - Uruguay
2
Sensory Evaluation. Food Science and Technology Department. Faculty of Chemistry. Universidad de la
Republica. Montevideo - Uruguay
Received: 12 June, 2007
Key words: Efficacy; Nandu oi/; Sensory evaluation; Clinica/ evaluation; Selfeva/uation;
Summary
The aim of the present work was to evaluate the efficacy of a cosmetic treatment composed of a day
cream and a night cream containing na ndu oil , using sensory and instrumenta l methods.
Twe nty six female volunteers in good health used the developed cosmetic products for 28 days.
Sensory (clinica! evaluation and selfeva luation) and instrumental (hydration, sebum and pH) measure me nts were performed at the begi nning and after 14 and 28 days of application of the treatme nt.
Sensory and instrumental methods indicateci that the objectives of the cosmetic treatment were achieved. After 14 days a significant increase in hyd ration, lightness, smoothness and generai state was
ac hi eved, suggesting an improvement in the state of the epidermis . After 28 days, treatment also caused a n increase in wrinkles and elasticity quality scores in old women , whi ch suggests an improveme nt in the state of the dermis.
Both clinica! evaluation and selfeva luation methods prov ided similar and comple me ntary information and were able to detect changes in the state of the skin of the volunteers with treatme nt.
lnstrumental measurements showed that, despite being ac id and formulateci with iiandu o il , the evaluated cosmetic products did not caused an excessive increase in pH and sebum of the skin of the
vo lunteers .
Riassunto
Scopo del presente lavoro è di valutare l'efficacia di un trattamento cosmetico basato sull ' uso di una
crema da giorno ed una crema da notte contenente olio di nandù. A tale scopo sono stati utilizzati
metodi sensoriali e strumentali su un gruppo di 26 donne sane volontarie per un periodo di 28 g iorni.
ll
Evoluotion of the Efficocy of o Cosmetic Treotment Contoining Nondu oil
Le val utazioni sensoriali (valutazione chimica e autovalutazione) e strumentali (controllo idratazione, sebo e pH) sono state effettuate dopo 14 e 28 giorni dall' applicazione bi/giornaliera dei prodotti . Con entrambi i metodi si è potuto verificare il raggiungimento dell'obiettivo prefissato. Dopo 14
giorni è stato verificato un incremento dell'idratazione cutanea, della luminosità e levigatezza generale della cute trattata.
Dopo 28 giorni è stato anche verificato un incremento della elasticità cutanea accompagnato da un
miglioramento delle rughe, dovuto, probabilmente, ad un riassestamento generale del derma.
Questi dati sono stati confermati sia dai metodi strumentali che dall'autovalutazione de i soggetti.
D'altra parte l'utilizzo dell'olio di fiandù non provoca incrementi nei lipidi di superficie, né del pH
cutaneo.
12
M. E. Parente, G. Ares, A. G6mbaro
INTRODUCTION
Fats and oils, both from ani mai a nd vegetai orig in , have been included in cosmetic products fo r
a very long time. Howe ver, de mand for these
products has augmented in the last decade due to
the increasing interest in incorporating natu ral
ingredients in cosmetic products ( I ) .
Ratites are flightless birds which include ostrich
(Struthio camelus), emu (Dromaeus novaehollandiae), fia ndu comun (Rhea americana) and
cho iq ue (Pterocnemia pennata). O ils fro m these
birds are commonl y incorporateci in products for
both therapeutic and cosmetic use (2,3). T hese
o ils a re rich in triacilglicerides with unsaturated
fa tty acids as palmitoleic, oleic, linoleic and
lino le nic ac id (4), which make their inclusion in
cosmetics an interesting possibility. These produc ts might act as lipophilic e mo llients in
cosme tic e mulsions.
J\Tandu o il contains 62.5% unsaturated fa tty
ac ids, which includes 37 .0 % monounsaturated
fatty o ils (mainly o leic acid - 34.7%-) and 24.7%
polyunsatu rated fa tty acids (5). Besides, fia ndu
oil contains high concentrations of linoleic acid
(22.2%) and linolenic acid (2.5 %), both essential fatty acids (5) . Essential fa tty ac ids deficit
has been reported to cause an abnormal increase
in transepide rmal water loss, leading to the developme nt of dry and scaly skin (6). Moreover,
lino leic acid or emollie nts containing it have
been reported to increase barrie r functi on of the
skin , favoring water retention of the stratum corne um (1 ,7) . Therefore , fiandu oil appears as an
inte resting acti ve emollie nt.
The sensory c haracteristics of fiandu o il were
studied in previous work (8). When applied on
the skin, this product showed similar sensory
characteristics to those of dimethicone. In this
work , fiandu oil was classified as a protective
fa tty e mo llient due to the fac t that it left an oily
film on the skin that lasted severa) times (8).
However, the efficacy of cosmetic treatments
containing fiandu oil has not been studied .
The efficacy of cosmetic products could be
regarded as the achieveme nt of the main goals
proposed during their developme nt. Efficacy is
an important factor for the sales pote ntial of any
cosmetic product. If the clinica! acti vity of a certain cosmetic product can be supported by sensoria! perception, this product is more li kely to
be successful in the market piace (9).
The sta te of the skin during the study of the efficacy of cosmetic treatments could be evaluated
using both instrumental and sensory methods.
Sensory methods include cl inica! evaluation and
selfevaluation. Clinica! evaluation is a sensory
method for skin state evaluation pe rformed by
expe rts (Dermatologists or Cosmetologists),
who objectivel y evaluate the state of a patient's
skin by using their senses and adequate methodologies (10). In thi s case, experts evaluate the
efficacy of cosmetic products and decide whic h
product they consider as better. On the othe r
ha nd, selfevaluation consists in a subjective
method to evaluate the state of the ski n performed by cosmetic users ( 11 - 19).
Severa! authors have used clinica) evaluation
and instrume ntal methods to evaluate the efficacy of cosmetic products (1 2, 13, 20 , 2 1), or selfevaluation and instrumental methods (l l - 15,
16, 19). In previous work (22) sensory me thods
fo r skin diagnosis were developed , apply ing clini ca) e val uation and selfe valuation, a nd concluded that they provided complimentary information. Wh ile clinica! evaluation provided information regarding the objective state of the skin ,
selfevaluation provided a measure of the perception that each volunteer has of her skin.
The aim of the present work was to use sensory
and instrumental methods to study the efficacy
of a cosmetic treatment composed of a day
cream and a night cream contain containing
fiandu oil .
13
Evaluation of the Efficacy of a Cosmetic Treatment Containing Nandu oil
methylparaben (and) propylparaben, a-hydroxiacids -AHA- (Pyrus malus (and) Vitis vinifera (and) Citrus limonum (and) propilenglySubjects
col (and) water (and) imidazolidinylurea (and)
methyl paraben), fiandu oil, Tocopheril acetate
Twenty six female volunteers in good health , of
and
Xantan Gum.
Caucasian origin , were recruited for the present
•
Day
cream: Aqua, BHT, Camellia sinensis
study. Subjects had different types of skin (dry,
ex
tract,
Carbomer, Ceteareth 20, Cetearyl
normai, mixed , and greasy) . Their ages ranged
alcohol,
EDTA,
Gliceryl stearate SE, Glycerin,
between 35 and 66 years old and they had not
Minerai
o
il
,
Perfume,
Phenoxy etano! (and)
had any dermatologica! conditions and were not
DMDM,
hidanto
in
(and)
methylparaben (and)
consuming any anti-inflammatory, or steroid
propylparaben, fiandu oil , Sodium ascorbil
pharmaceuticals, and were not applying any
phosphate,
Tocopheril
acetate ,
pharmaceutical on their facia1 skin. Volunteers
Triethanolamine
and
Urea.
were sorted into two groups considering their
Participants were instructed to use the products
age: fourteen young women (between 35 and 45
in the following way: day cream should be
years old) and twelve old women (46 years old
applied
after morning skin hygiene and could be
and more).
reapplied
if considered necessary; whereas nig ht
Ali subjects were informed of the aims of the
cream
should
be applied at night, after correstudy and gave their written consent in conforsponding hygiene.
mi ty with the ethics of cosmetic experimentation
The
treatment was design to achieve two objec(23, 24). Instructions of how to apply the cosmetives:
tic products under evaluation were given to the
• Short and medi um term (few days to l week):
volunteers.
Improve properties that depend on the superficial
skin layers; such as hydration, smooCosmefic treatment
thness, lightness and therefore generai state. To
achieve this objecti ve moisturizing agents
A cosmetic treatment for skin face care was desi(urea, g lyceri n and AHA), emollients (fiandu
gned, composed of two creams containing fiandu
oil
and isopropyl myristate), an tioxidants
oil.
(Camellia
sinensis extract, sodium ascorbil
Nandu oil was obtained by extraction from
phosphate
and
tocopheril acetate) and Iightefiandu (Rhea americana) greasy tissue in hot
ning
agents
(sodium
ascorbil phosphate) were
water followed by centrifugation (5). This proincluded
in
the
formulation
(25-32) .
duct was subject to clinica! and bioengineering
•
Long
term
(more
than
a
month):
to improve
comedogenic e
hypoallergenic studies.
properties related to the deep layers of the
According to these studies, the use of fiandu oil
skin; such as reduce wrinkles and increase elaas cosmetics' raw materiai was safe and no nsticity. To achieve this objective antiaging
comedogenic.
agents (Camellia sinensis extract, AHA ,
The formulation of the creams was the follosodium
ascorbil phosphate and tocopheril acewing:
tate)
were
included in the formulation to favor
• Night cream: Aq ua, BHT, Ceteareth 20,
the
generation
of collagen fibers, giving as a
Cetearyl alcohol, Glycerin, Gliceryl stearate
resu
lt
softer
skins.
SE, EDTA, Isopropyl myristate, Perfume ,
• Besides, the designed treatment presents aging
Phenoxy etano! (and) DMDM, hidantoin (and)
14
M. E. Parente. G. Ares. A. Gambaro
prevention effects due to the presence of antioxidants.
Efficacy evaluafion
Evaluation of the state of the facial skin of the
volunteers was carried out using clinica! evaluation and selfevaluation, as developed in previous
work (22). Instrumental measurements (hydration , pH and sebum) were also performed. Three
evaluation instances were considered: before
they start the treatment, after fourteen days of
treatment and after 28 days.
Evaluations were carried out under controlled
temperature and humidity (20°C and
60% relative humidity) . Volunteers were asked
to stay under those conditions for 15 minutes
before the evaluation (33, 34).
Clinica/ evaluafion
A Cosmetologist observed the facial skin of the
volunteers and scored different attributes using a
structured 9-point quality scale (Table I). The
evaluated attributes were: wrinkles (amount and
depth), hydration, smoothness, elasticity,
lightness and generai state. After the evaluation,
the Cosmetologist defined the type of skin of
each volunteer (dry, normai, mixed, and greasy)
and an interview about skin care and hygiene
was performed.
Selfevaluafion
Volunteers were asked to evaluate the state of
their facial skin by scoring the same attributes
than the Cosmetologist, using the same quality
scale.
lnsfrumenfal measuremenfs
Three instrumental measurements were performed on the facial skin of the vol unteers: hydration, pH and sebum.
Hydration was measured by electrical capacitance using a Corneometer CM825® (Courage +
Khazaka electronic GmbH, Koln, Germany).
The skin of the volunteers was classified as very
dry when the reading was lower than 50, dry
when the reading was between 50 and 60, and
sufficiently moistured when the reading was
higher than 60 (34).
TABLEI
Quality scale used to evaluate the state of the skin during
clinica! evaluation and seljevaluation.
Descriptio
Excellent
Very good
Go od
Satisfactory
Fair
Enough
Defective
Poor
Very poor
Score
9
8
7
6
5
4
3
2
l
15
Evaluat1on of the Efficacy of a Cosmetic Treatment Containing Nandu oi/
Sebum was determined us ing a Se bumeter
SM810®(Courage + Khazaka electroni c GmbH ,
Koln , Germany) and ex pressed in mg/cml.
Sebum was only determined before the start the
treatment and at the end. When sebum reading
was lower than 70 skins were classified as dry,
whe n it was between 70 and 180 as normai , and
as greasy if sebum reading was higher than I 80.
pH was measured using a piane electrode Skin
pH meter PH 900®(Courage + Khazaka electronic GmbH , Koln , Germany) . Skin was classified
according to its pH in acid skin (pH between 3.5
and 4.4), normai skin (pH between 4.5 a nd 5.5)
and basic skin (pH between 5.6 and 6.5).
For each volunteer 5 measure ments of hydratio n
a nd pH were performed on each cheek, whereas
3 measurements of sebum were performed.
Data analysis
Analysis of variance (ANOVA) was performed
on the instrumental and sensory data obtained
considering volunteer and time as variation factors . When differences were significant (p<0.05)
means and Fisher's Jeast significant differences
were calcul ated.
Principal component analysis (PCA) was performed on the clinica! evaluation and selfevaluation
data, to illustrate the relationship between variables, and between variables and volunteers.
At each evaluation time , volun teers were sorted
in groups according to instrumental data fo r
hydration, pH and sebum. The ex istence of differences in the volunteers frequency distributions with time was evaluated us ing xl statisti ca!
test. An a nalysis of variance (ANOYA) was performed on clinica! evaluation, selfevaluation and
instrumental measurements data , considering
group as variation factor. When the effects were
significant, mean ratings fo r each sample and
Fisher 's least significant differences were calc ulated. Diffe re nces were considered significant
when p < 0.05.
16
Ali statistica) analyses were perfo rmed using
Genstat Discovery Edition (VSN International ,
UK).
RESULTS ANO DISCUSSION
Clinica/ evaluation
Analysis of variance pe rformed on clinica) evaluation data showed that ali the evaluated attributes varied with time of a pplication of the evaluated cosmetic treatme nt (p<O .00 I) .
As shown in Table II, after 14 days of treatment,
a significant (p<0.00 I ) improvement was fou nd
in softness , lightness, hydration and generai
state. This improvement continued until the e nd
of the study. Scores increased from 3-4 (defective to enough) to 6 (satisfactory) after 28 days,
whi ch shows the efficacy of the developed
cosmetic treatme nt. Softness, lig htness and
hydration correspond to skin characte ristics that
depend on the state of the superficial layers of
the skin and therefo re easily a nd quick!y respond
to treatment. Considering that the main objective of the proposed treatme nt was to improve
these skin attributes, results suggest that it was
achieved.
On the other hand , wrinkles and elasticity were
not significantly affected afte r 28 days of treatme nt. These attributes depend of the state of the
dermis and need long treatments (of more than
28 days) to achieve sig nificant improveme nts .
Results according to age group
As previously mentioned , volunteers were sorted
into two groups considering thei r age in young
and old women. C li nica) evaluation data was
analyzed separately for each of these age groups.
As shown in Table ill, similar results were found
for young and old women. A sign ificant improve
in smoothness, lightness, hydration and gene rai
state was registered after 14 days of treatment
for both age groups . Therefore, these results suggest that the efficacy of the developed cosrnetic
treatrnent on the epiderrnis did not depend on the
age of the volunteers . Thus, it could be used by
both age groups for irnproving this aspect of the
state of the skin.
On the other hand, an increase in elasticity was
observed for both age groups after 28 days of
treatrnent. Moreover, an irnprovernent in wri nkles was achieved after 28 days only for old
wornen. The fact that young wornen did not
show an irnprovernent in wrinkles quality scores
could be attributed to the fact that they show
hi gh scores at the beginning of treatrnent.
TABLEII
Average scores for clinica! evaluation of the state of the facial skin of the volunteers throughout treatment.
Time of application of the treatment (days)
Attibute
o
28
14
Wrinkles
5.3 a
5.4 a
Smoothness
3.6 e
5.0 b
6.1 a
Lightness
3.4 e
4.9
b
5.8 a
Hydration
3.9 e
5 .2 b
6.0 a
Elasticity
5 .0 a
5 .0 a
5.3 a
Generai state
3.7 e
4.7
5.9 a
5.8 a
b
Values within a row with different superscript are significantly different
according to Fishers' Least Significant Difference Test (p<0.05)
TABLEIII
A verage scores for clinica[ evaluation of the state of rhe facial skin of the volunteers
throug/wut treatmenl by age group.
Young
(35- 45 years old)
o
Old
(>45 years old)
14
28
6.3 a
6.4 a
6.5 a
Wrinkles
o
14
4.4 b
4.5
28
b
4.9 a
3.3 e
5.0 b
6.1 a
Smoothness
4.0 e
5.3 b
6.0 a
2.9 c
5.1 b
5.8 a
Lightness
4.0 e
5.0 b
5.7 a
3.8 cb
5.4 b
6.4 a
Hydration
4.0 b
5.0 a
5.5 a
6.0 b
6.1 a,b
6.3 a
Elasticity
3.9 b
3.9 b
4.3 a
4.0 e
5.1 b
6.3 a
Generai state
3.9 e
4.5 b
5 .3 a
Values within a row with different superscript are significantly different according to Fishers'
Least Significant Difference Test (p<0.05)
17
Evaluation of the Efficacv of a Cosmetic Treatment Containing Nandu oil
TABLE IV
A verage scores fo r seljevafuarion of rhe stare of the facia f skin of the vo funreers
throughout trearment.
Attibute
o
28
a
14
6.2
a
6.4 a
5.7 e
6.6
b
7.1
Lightness
4.9 e
5.8
b
6.5 a
Hydration
4.7 e
5.7
b
6.4 a
Elasticity
4.8
b
5.8"
6.1 a
Gener ai state
5.4
b
6.0 a
6.5
Wrinkles
Smoothness
6.0
3
a
Values within a r ow with different superscript ar e significantly diff'erent according to Fishers'
Regarding wrinkles and elasticity, no sig nificant
increase in their scores were found afte r 28 days
of treatme nt.
These res ul ts s uggest that volunteers observed
an improveme nt in the state of their ski n after 14
days of appl ication of the evaluated cosmetic
treatme nt. This improvement in smoothness ,
lig htness and hydratio n a fter 14 days o f treatment might e ncourage volunteers to continue the
treatment for a longer pe riod , making the treatment poss ible to improve wrinkles and e lasticity,
characteri stics that are mo re diffic ult a nd take
mo re time to improve.
Results for selfeva luatio n were in agreeme nt
with those for clini ca! evaluation data, s uggesting that both methods provided similar information and were able to detect changes in the
state of the skin of the volunteers w ith treatment.
continued between days 14 a nd 28 days . T hese
results suggest that vo lunteers in both age
groups perceived the efficacy of the developed
cosmetic treatme nt.
Differences in the effect of cosmetic treatme nt in
wri nkles were observed between young and old
wo men . Whi le young women no ticed an improveme nt in wrinkles after 28 days, old wome n d id
not notice an improvement in this attribute w ith
treatment. However, c lin ica] evaluatio n data
showed an improve ment in wrin kles for both age
g roups after 28 days of treatme nt. Thus, the se
results suggest a difference in the perceptio n of
the efficacy of the cosmetic treatment be tween
o ld women and the Cosmetologist. Old women
seemed stricter than the C os metologist whi le
evaluating changes in their wrinkles.
Principa/ componenf analysis
Results according fo age group
As show n in Table V, similar results were found
for young and old wo me n. A significant improvement in smoothness, lig htness , hydration and
generai state was registered after 14 days of treatment for both age groups , improvement that
20
A principal component analysis was performed
on selfevaluation data before and after 28 days
of treatment. The first and second principal components accounted for 45.7 and 45 .4 % of the
variance of the c linica] e valuation data respective ly.
TABLE V
A verage scores for selfevaluation of the state of the fa cial skin of the volunteers
throughout treatment by age group.
Young
(35- 45 years old)
o
Old
(>45 years old)
14
6.4 b
28
o
6.4 b
6.8
Wrinkles
6.0
a
14
6.2 a
28
6.4 a
5.5 e
6.6 b
7.6 a
Smoothness
5.7
e
6.6 b
7. l a
a
5.0 e
5.9 b
6.7 a
Lightn
4.9 e
5.8 b
6.5 a
4.8 e
5.9 b
6.9 a
Hydrationess
4.7 e
5.7
b
6.4 a
4.9 e
5.6 b
6.2 a
E lasticity
4.8
5.8
a
6. 1 a
5.3 b
5.7 b
6.8 a
Generai state
5.3 b
5.8 a
b
4.8 e
Values within a row with different superscript are significantly differe according to Fishers'
Least Significant Diff'erence Test (p<0.05)
As shown in Figure 3, the first principal compone nt (PC I) contrasted positi vely with lightness,
smoothness, hydrati on and generai state; whe reas the second principal component (PC2) was
positively correlated with wrinkles and elasticity. These results are in agreement with previous
work (22) and with results fo r clinica( evaluation
data.
A similar trend was observed when evaluating
the relative position of the volunteers before and
after 28 days of treatment in the PCA of selfevaluation data than that of clinica) evaluation data.
As shown in Figure 4 , 73 % of the volunteers
were initially located to the left of PC I , showing
low values for smoothness, lightness, hydration ,
genera! state. Nonetheless, this percentage was
inverse at the end of the treatment (after 28 days)
as 73% of the volunteers were located to the
right of PCl, suggesting a good leve! of care of
their skin. Moreover, ali the volunteers moved to
the right of PC 1, showing an improvement in
their perception of the state of their skin after
applying the treatment for 28 days.
Some volunteers also moved up in PC2, showing
an improvement in wrinkles and elasticity, suggesting an improvement in the state of their dermis. Nevertheless, these displacements were
fewe r than those on PC J and were shown by a
smaller amount of volunteers, in agreement with
clinica! evaluation data.
Therefore, these results show that vol unteers
perceived the efficacy of the evaluated cosmetic
treatment.
INSTRUMENTAL
MEASUREMENTS
Hydration
As shown in Table VI, ANO VA showed a highly
significant increase in hydration with ti me of
application of treatment, which could be attributed to the presence of emollients (fiandu oil and
isopropyl miri state) and moisturizing agents
(glicerine and urea) in the cosmetic products
included in the treatment. These results are in
agreeme nt with the increase in hydration scores
during clinica) evaluation and selfeval uation.
21
Evaluation of the Effìcacv of a Cosmetic Treatment Containing Nandu oil
Wrinkles
0 ,5
~
.,.;
~
o
N
(.)
Q.
-0,5
-1
-1
o
-0,5
0,5
PC 1 (45,7%)
Fig. 3 Facror scores f or tlze pri11cipal compo11ent analysis of selfevaluarion data ar tlze begùmi11g and end of rrea1111e111.
As shown in Table VI, young women showed
higher hydration values than old women throughout treatment, as expected due to aging effects
on skin . Both age groups showed a significant
increase in hydratio n due to treatment.
Volunteers were sorted in three categories according to hydration measurements: very dry, dry
and sufficientl y moistured.
Table VII shows type of skin frequency distribu-
22
tion , considering hydration scores, throug hout
treatment.
x1 test showed highly significant differences
were found in volunteers' frequency distribution
with time of application (p=0.0016), suggesting
that treatment changed skin hydration scores,
changing the category in which volunteers were
sorted.
As shown in Table VII , treatment caused a mar-
M. E. Parente, G. Ares. A. G6mbaro
ked increase in the percentage of women with
hydrated skin and a concomitant decrease of
those with very dry and dry skin. Wh ile only
27% of the those showed sufficiently moistured
skins at the beginning of the treatment, this percentage increase to 77% after 28 days of treatment.
These results show an increase in ski n hydration
with treatment, suggesting the efficacy of the
evaluated treatment.
Sebum
end of the treatment. ANOVA showed that
volunteers showed higher sebum scores
(p<O .05) at the end of the treatment, wh ich could
be attributed to the presence of emollients and
waxy substances (gliceryyl stearate and cetearyl
alcohol) in the cosmetic products included in the
treatment.
As shown in Table VIII, old women showed
lower sebum scores than young women throughout treatment. This differe nce could be explained considering a decrease in the secretion of the
sebaceous g landules with aging .
Sebum was measured at the beginning and the
TABLE VI
A verage scores for instrumental hydration scores of the volunteers throughout treatment,
for the whole population and by age group.
o
28
14
Whole population
51.8
e
62.6
b
64.8
a
Young women
(35- 45 years old)
52.8
e
63.0
b
66.2
a
Old women
(>45 years old)
50.6
e
62.2
b
63.3
a
Least Significant Difference T est (p<0.05)
TABLE VII
Type oj skin jrequency distribution considering hydration scores throughout treatment.
Type of skin
Time of application of
treatment (days)
Very dry
Dry
o
42
31
27
14
15
35
50
28
4
19
77
Sufficiently
moistured
23
Treatment signifi cantly inc reased (p<O .05)
sebum in women fo r both age groups, as shown
in Table VIII.
The skin of the volunteers was sorted into three
categories according to their sebum scores: dry,
normai a nd greasy. Table IX presents type of
skin freque ncy distribution of the volunteers,
according to their sebum scores, at the beginn ing
and the end of treatment.
As shown in Table IX, a slight decrease in percentage of volunteers with dry skin and a paralle l increase in women with normai skin were
o bserved after 28 days of treatment.
O n the other hand , as the evaluated cosmetic
p roducts contained na nd u oil an excessive
increase in sebum could be expected. However,
it is important to indicate that after 28 days of
treatme nt no increase was registered in percentage of women with greasy skin. These res ults
suggest that the increase in sebum due to treatment was restricted to women with very low
levels of sebum.
caused a significa nt decrease in pH after 28
d ays, for both young and old women. This could
be attributed to the low pH of the cosmetic products that composed the treatment.
The skin of the volunteers was sorted in three
categories according to pH measure ments: acid,
normai and basic. Table XI shows type of skin
freque ncy distribution, considering pH, th roughout treatment.
As shown in Tab le XI, no significant di ffere nces
we re found with time application of treatment in
the type of skin distribution of volunteers.
Thus, although the evaluated night c ream was
ac id (pH=4) it only caused an slight acid ification
of the skin of the volunteers.
CONCLUSIONS
Both sensory and instrumental methods provided useful information to evaluate the efficacy
of the developed cosmetic treatme nt.
Both clinica! evaluatio n and selfevaluation
methods provided similar a nd complementary
information and were able to detect cha nges in
the state of the skin of the volunteers with treatme nt.
pH
As shown in Table X, the e valuated treatme nt
TABLE VIII
Average scoresfor sebum scores of the volunteers througlww treatme111, for the wlwle
popu/ation and by age group.
o
28
Whole population
44 b
67
a
Young women
(35- 45 years old)
50 b
77
a
37
54 a
Old women
(>45 years old)
b
Values within a row with different superscript are significantly
different according to Fishers' Least Significant Difference Test (p<0.05)
24
Clinica) evaluation provided objecti ve information about the efficacy of the treatment and
rnight be useful to support efficacy claims. On
the other hand, selfevaluation could be regarded
as a measure of how satisfied consumers are
with the evaluated cosmetic treatment and with
its effects on their skin.
Sensory and instrumental methods indicateci that
the objectives of the cosmetic treatment were
achieved. After 14 days a significant increase in
hydration, lightness, smoothness and generai
state was registered , suggesting an improvement
in the state of the epidermis. After 28 days, treatment also caused an increase in wrinkles and
elasticity scores in old women, which suggests
an improvement in the state of the derm is.
Instrumental measurements showed that, despite
being acid and formulateci with fiandu oi l, the
evaluated cosmetic products did not caused an
excessive increase in pH and sebum of the skin
of the volunteers.
TABLEIX
Type oj skinjrequency distriburion considering hydration scores throughout treatment.
Type ofskin
treatment (days)
Acid
o
14
o
o
28
4
Normai
73
Basic
27
54
45
73
23
TABLEX
Average scoresfor pH scores oj the vo/unteers throughout 1rea1111e111,for the whole
popu/ation and by age group.
o
28
14
Whole population
5.4
b
5.5
b
5.2 a
Young women
(35- 45 years old)
5.4
b
5.5
b
5.2 a
Old women
(>45 years old)
5.4
b
c.b
5.3 a
5.5
25
TABLE XI
Type of skinfrequency distribution considering pH measurements throughout treatment.
Type ofskin
treatment (days)
Acid
Normai
73
27
14
o
o
54
45
28
4
73
23
o
• 10
X14
•14
X 11
•4
X 13
•9
X4
X9
~
~X3
X8
•Ef>'t 23X 1
•
X 21
~e~ 11
•15
iri
X X9J 1
-6
-4
-2
•24
•5
) 22
•17
X 15
X .6
-
:!..
Q.
2
1
~
N
(.)
Basic
Xi6
•2~7
• 21
• 1.2
X 5 X 17
X7
X~~. 2
•12
• to1 s ç2b8 -2
X 24• 1~ 16
• 13
•25
X 12
>< 25
.
PC 1 (45.7%)
•INITIAL
XFINAL
Fig. 4 Volunteers loadings in the principal componenr analysis of selfevaluarion da ta ar the beginning and end of rrearment.
26
M. E. Parente, G. Ares, A. G6mboro
References
1) Rieger M. (1996) Empleo de cosméticos de grasas y aceites naturales seleccionados. Cosméticos
Nuevos 2: 11.
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3) Krawczyk T. (1997) Emu: premier oil bird. lnform. 8 (3): 246.
4) Craig-Schmidt M. and William K.R. (1997) Fatty Acid Composition: Comparative analysis of
emu , ostrich and rhea oil (Abstracts: 88'h AOCS Annual Meeting and Expo , Seattle WA, May).
5) lrigaray B, Gil M . and Grompone MA. (2003) Relaci6n entre las propiedades térmicas y la
composici6n de la grasa de fiandu y de las fracciones obtenidas de ella. Simposio Internacional
de SBOG.- Campinhas, Brasil.
6) Idson B. (1992) Dry skin moisturizing and emolliency. Cosmet. Toiletr. 107: 69.
7) Valenzano AM. and Morganti P. (1999) Essential Fatty Acids for the Epidermal Barrie
Homeostasis Stability and Safety. Cosm . & Toilet & Tl. Manufactuture Worldwide. 32: pages
missing.
8) Parente ME, Ares G, Gambaro A. (2007) Sensory characterization of emollients. J. Sen. Stud.
In press.
9) Wortel VAL. and Wiechers JW. (2000) Skin sensory performance of individuai persona! care
ingredients and marketed persona! care products. Food Qual. Pref.11: 121-127.
10) Noie G, Edgerley S, Jonson A. and Znaiden A. (1997) Cuidado y tratamiento de la piel, evaluaci6n facial global. Método de evaluaci6n clinica. Cosméticos Nuevos. 1: 34-54.
11) Laufer A. and Dikstein S. (1996) Objetive measuremente and self-assessment of skin-care treatmentes. Cosmet. Toiletr.111: 91-98.
12) Camarasa JG, Anthoine P, Tribo Boixareu MJ, Serra Balrich E. and Aubert L. (1997)
Demost.ration of the anti-wrinkle efficacy of cosmetic product. Co.rrelation between clinica)
observation and instrumental methods. J. Appl. Cosmetol. 15(1):13-20.
13) Berardesca E, Distante F, Anthoine P, Rabbiosi G. and Aubert L. (1997) Clinica) and instrumental evaluation of the activity of an anti-wrinkle cosmetic product on cutaneous relief and
photoaged skin. J. Appl. Cosmetol . 15: 69-74.
14) Le Fur I, Lopez S, Morizot F, Guinot Ch. and Tschachler E. (1999) Comparison of cheek and
forehead regions by bioengineering methods in women with different self-reported "cosmetic
skin types" . Skin Res. Technol. 5: 182-188.
15) Bates T. and Znaniecki A. (2000) An evaluation of sensory inducing chemical probes comparing women's self-perception of sensitive skin. lnternational Cosmetic. Expo. pp 21-28 .
16) Bownman J, Floyd A, Znaniecki A, Klingman A, Stoudemayer T. and M ills O. (2000) The
use of chemical probes to assess the fac ial reactivity of women, comparing their self- perception
of sensitive skin. J. Cosmet. Sci. 51: 267-273.
17) Morizot F, Guinot C, Lopez S, Le Fur I. and Tschachler E. (2000) Sensitive skin: analys is of
symptoms, perceived causes and possible mechanisms. Cosmet. Toiletr. 115 (11): 83-89.
18) Morochnik P. (2000) Aspectos emocionales relacionados con la estética. Dermac. 3: 154-156.
19) Vijver de LPL, Boelman E, Bausch-Goldbohm RA. and Roza L. (2003) Subjetive Skin
Condition and its Association with Objetive Skin Measurements . Cosmet. Toiletr. 118 (7): 45-54.
20) Ferreira M, Fiadeiro T, Silva M. and Soares A. (1998) Electrical conductance: a controversia!
27
Evatuation of the Efflcacy of a Cosmetic Treatment Containing Nandu oil
parameter in the evaluation of emollients in atopic dermatitis. Skin research and Technology. 4:
136.
21) Wiechers J. and Wortel V. (2000) Mak ing sense of sensory data. Cosmet. Toiletr. 115 (3): 37 .
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24) Declaration of Helsinki , Recommendations gu iding phys icians un biomedica! research invol ving
human subjects. Adopted by the J8•h World Medicai Assembly, Helsinki, Finland Uune 1964),
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Assembly, Venice, Italy (oct 1983); and the 4 1" World Medicai Assembly, Hong Kong (sep
1989).
25) Pugliese P. and Klinger K. (1986) Biologica! assessment of antiaging products. Preprints of the
IFSCC Congress, Barcelona. Voi. 1.
26) Pinnel S. (1988) New stabilized acid solution. Percutaneous absorption an effect on relative collagen synthesis. Journal of Cutaneous Aging & Cosmetic Dermatology. Voi 1, N° 2.
27) Smith W. (1995) Reduction of AHA irri tation potential by inclusion of s saccharide isomerate.
Sofw-Journal.121: 10 13-!017.
28) Bettinger J. and Maibach H. (1997) SC Water-Bind ing Capacity. Cosmet. Toiletr. 112: 49-53.
29) Hahn G. (1998) A new line of defense against aging; breaking the irritation barrier. DCI ,
January, number missing 18-20.
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(1998) AHAs and deri vatives. An in Vitro study of their effect on celi proliferation and morphology. Cosmet. Toiletr., 113: 56-58.
31) Kraechter H, McCaulley J, Edison B, Green B. and Milora D. (2001) Amphoteric hydroxy
complexes: AHAs with reduced stinging and irritation. Cosmet. Toi/etr. 116: 47-52.
32) Nacht S. (2002) Las Vitaminas en los tratamientos cosméticos de la pie!. CCL Latinoamérica,
Voi. 1, sep-dic , 34-37.
33) Berardesca E . (1997) EEMCO, Gu idance fo r the assessment of stratum corneum hydration:
electrical methods. Skin Research and Technology. 3: I 26-132.
4) Courage W. (1994) Hardware and measuri ng principle: Corneometer. En: Bioengi neeri ng of de
skin: water and the stratum corneum. E lsner, P.; Berardesca, E.; Maibach, H. Eds . CRC Press.
Boca Raton , USA. pp 17 1- 175 .
Author Address:
Morfo Emma Parente
Secci6n Evaluac i6n Sensoria!
Facultad d e Qufmica
Gral. Flores 2124. CP 11800.
Montevideo, Uruguay
Email: [email protected] .uy
28
J. Appl. Cosmetol. 26, 29-34 (Jonuory/Morch 2008)
THE EFFECTS ON THE SKIN OF A NEW
FRACTIONAL LASER. MACROSCOPICAL ANO
HISTOLOGICAL EXAMINATION
Paolo Mezzana', M.D. Giuseppe Coppola', M.D.
' Plastic. Reconstructive Surgery Specialist. Rome - ltaly; R&D lnternational Society of Cosmetic
Dermatology. Rome - ltaly
2
Director of the Division of Pathology of the S.Glovanni Addolorata Hospital of Rome - ltaly
Received: Ju/y, 2007
Key words: Froctionol resurfocing;
Photoogeing:
Froctionol
photothermolysis;
Skin
rejuvenotion:
Summary
Fractional resurfacing is an exciting new technology th at fi lls a uniq ue niche in any skin care rejuvenati on protocol. " Fractional Photothermolys is" seeks to onl y damage certai n zones within the selected target area, (producing tiny dot, or pi xel-like treated areas on the skin) , leaving the othe r zones
within it perfec tly intact; hence only causing fractional damage through the heat of the light source.
T his allows the skin to heal much fas ter than if the whole area was treated , as the ' healthy' untreated
tissue surrounding the treated zones helps to fili in the damaged area with new cells .
T he Authors examine the effects of this new procedure on the skin , w ith the aim of analyze the treatment, exploring the c utaneous reaction to various laser pulse durations a nd energies by means of
the macroscopic reaction and histo logical appraisal.
Riassunto
Il res urfacing fraz ionale è una nuova tecno logia che colma una nicchia unica nei protocoll i di ring iovanimento c uta neo . "La Fototermolisi fraz ionale" riesce a danneggiare solo parzialmente il tessuto
bersaglio, producendo piccole colonne di coagulazione, lasc iando le altre zone tra di esse pe rfettamente intatte. Provoca, quindi, esclusivamente un danno frazionale grazie al calore della luce laser,
e le zone risparmjate dal trauma fungono da serbato i di rigenerazione per la produzione delle nuove
cellule .
Gli A utori esaminano gli effetti di q uesta nuova procedu ra sulla pelle, con lo scopo d i a nalizzare il
tratta mento attraverso le reazioni cutanee da un punto di vista macroscopico ed isto logico a d iverse
durate dell'impulso e a diverse energie.
29
The Effects on the Skin of a New Fractional Laser. Macroscopica/ snd Histological Examiriation
INTRQDUCTIQN
durations of the laser (fig. 2) and the " punch
biopsy" has been done 24 hours after the laser
The Fractional Skin Resurfacing is a new laser
technique that is becorning day by day more
popular in the aesthetic surgery and dermatology
sector. 1• 3 It is used for the treatment and improvement of many symptoms of the skin ageing, fo r
some traumatic lesions and acne scars2-' . The aim
of this study is to analyze the treatment of
Fractional Skin Laser Resurfacing, exploring the
cutaneous reaction to various laser pulse durations and energies by means of the macroscopic
reaction and histological appraisal.
exposure.
• Skin portion of the retro-auricular region irradiateci imrnediately after the surgical excision.
Biopsy immediately after laser irradiation (fig.
l).
• Skin of the forearm region irradiated at four
d ifferent pulse/energy configurations (Area A,
B, C, D) and "punch biopsy" of 3mm, 24 hours
after the laser exposure (fig. 2).
•Coloration with Haematoxylin-Eosin.
• Macroscopic pictures and images captured
with digitai polarized camera.
• Histology with Zeiss microscope and JVC
camera.
• Fractional Skin Resurfacing Laser System
1540 nm (Matissetm , Quanta System S.p.a.,
Varese, Italy).
A
e
e
o
000
I hour
A
e
e
o
24 hours
RESULTS
First series of tests (fig. 1), has been treated with
laser, with energies equivalent to those of the
second series (fig.2) and after the histology there
are no visible alterations to the laser treatment.
No signs of carbonization, vaporization or ablation of the cutaneous tissues. The second series
has been treated with various energies and pulse
30
A5ms
5 rnliUTS
B 5ms
8.UUTS
C7mo
ltnUUTS
D oma
BmJIUTS
OOQ,
P. Mezzana, G . Coppola
ces, other times by rough mass . In some
"columns" the superficial small blood vessels
show coagulati ve necrosis of the wall with pyknosis of the endothelial nucleus. At the lower
lirnit of the "column" often small blood vessels
are observed that seem to represent the deep
limit of the derma! alteration (fig. 5).
Fig. 3 Area A- 5ms, 5111}/MTS. Small vacuo/ization of a
group of keratinocytes, with lysis of the correspo11dent basai membrane .
;
Fig. 5 Area C-7ms, l lmJ/MTS.
.;'
' .fig. 4
Fig. 4 Area B-5ms, 8mJIMTS. Coagulative necrosis and of
a group of keratinocytes with gaps for111atio11 in the
medium assizes of the 111alpighia11; it is accompcmied
with severa/ alterations of rhe basai membrane:
delami11atio11 or histolysis, with small enlargement
of the collagen, or disi11tegratio11 of the same collagen.
Conservation , like always, of the stratum corneum, inconstant conservation of the granular
Jayer, coagulative necrosis of a group of keratinocytes generally close to a dense eosinophil
mass, other times they are disintegrated in
grains, with intra-epidermal gap formation: The
basai membrane is no longer recognizable, the
derma! collagen in a "column" is changed in
small dense bands, eosinophil with a light blue
tonality, the bands are separated by empty spa-
Fig. 6 Area D-9ms, 9mJIMTS. Skin a/rerations simi/ar ro
the case of 5ms, 8mJ/ MTS.
The development of the erythema
A moderate erythema was produced by al1 the
pulse/energy laser configurations
More detailed:
A. This configuration produces a very light erythema which disappears within an hour.
31
The Effects on the Skin of a New Fractional Laser. Macroscopica/ snd Histological Examination
B. The erythema is more stable, 24 hours later
has almost completely disappeared.
C.One hour later the erythema is stili evident
but moderate. Within 24 hours it is in regression but stili visible.
D. Similar to the B configuration.
Images in dermatoscopy, 24 hours after the
laser treatment
fig.9
Fig. 9: C. Homoge11011s p1111ctifor111 alterations of the cutaneous pigmelllation. The retic11!11111 of "microscab"
is completely similar 10 the theoretical print of the
ji-actio11al /e11s array.
fig.
Fig. 7: A. No 111acroscopic visible alrerarions.
Fig.10: D. Similar 10 the A conjiguration.
DISCUSSION
Fig. 8: B. No ho111oge11ous pu11c1ifor111 alrerarions of the
c111a11eo11s pigmemation. Jr is possible to identify a
reticulum of "microscabs" simi/ar to the theoretical
print of the fractional lens array of the laser.
32
From the comparison between the first series
and the second one, probably the alterations of
the keratinocytes and the dermis after the laser
irradiation , is a "vita!" phenomenon that has
developed within the 24 hours of observation
and is consequent to a thermal insult concentrated inside the microspots and caused by the laser
beam.
P.Mezzana, G. Coppola
In ali the cases, damage to leve! of the corne um
layer does not exist and it is interesting to notice
the presence of free melan in in the epidermis .
Lowe r times of exposure and fl uence (es . 5ms,
5mJ/MTS) determi ne damage to the leve! of the
basai membrane and an overheating of the
superficial dermis without coagulation.
The basai membrane carries out a fundamental
ro le of support and regulation of the cellular prolife ration (sees improvement of the texture), it is
a structural support and al lows fo r the nourishment and the refuse to diffuse . It acts as a fi lter for macromolecules, a nd also a zone of polarization of the cells, in the regeneration process
as it works a "freeway" fo r the cellular migrati on. Its alteration therefore, that happens also at
re latively low parameters, can already justify the
positive observations on the improvement of the
c utaneous texture at low laser parameters .
The max imum depth of coagulation in the test is
600 m icron using 11 mJ/MTS (fig. 5). The
syste m can reach 20 mJ/MTS and the coagulation columns can reach in the dermis at approximately 900 micron.
33
The Effects on the Skin of a New Fractiona/ Laser. Macroscopica/ snd Histological Examination
References
1) Manstein D, Herron GS, Sink RK, et al. (2004) Fractional photothermolysis: A new concept
for c utaneous remodeli ng using microscopie patterns of thermal injury. Lasers Surg Med. 34:
363-7.
2) Tanzi EL, Alster TS, Williams CM. (2003) Treatment of facial rhytides with a nonablative,
1450 nm diode laser: A controlled clinica] and histologic study. Dermatol Surg. 29 (2): 124-8.
3) Bass LS. (2005) Reju venation of the aging face using Fraxel laser treatment. Aesthet Surg
Journal 25: 307-309.
4) Rokhsar CK, Fitzpatrick RE. (2005) The treatment of melasma with fractional photothermolys is: A pilot study. Dermatol Surg. 31: 1645-1650.
Author Address:
Paolo Mezzana, M.D.
Via Merulana 6 1I A
00185 Rome ltaly
[email protected]
34
Special Reports
ALL FOR COSMETICS 2007 AFC CONFERENCE
Polish Society of Cosmetic Chemists - Press Office
On 20-21 st November 2007 the th ird Ali fo r
Cosmetics Confe rence was held in the historic
interiors ofthe Chodkiewiczs Palace and in halls
and laboratories of Academy of Cosmetics and
Health Care in Warsaw.
The Conference was accompanied by " tabletop" exhibition, in wh ich cosmetic universities
and academies, branch publishers and cosmetic
industry representatives participated.
This year Conference was held under the banner
"Education and science for beauty" . Four sessions devoted to cosmetic active ingredients ,
technologies used in formulation of new products, permeation abil ity of cosmetic ingredients
through the skin and hair as well as a perfumery
session took piace during two days of the conference. Altogether, 28 speeches were given. For
the first time, the separate commerciai sessions
and technical workshops for the clients of raw
material s suppliers were organized. The conference was also accompanied by poster session ,
in wh ich about thirty posters displaying scientific research with in cosmetic chemistry and
cosmetology were presented.
The leve! of speeches was very high. Polish
cosmetology was represented mainly by young
people originating from various academic circles and presenting the results of research carried out within the range of master and PhD studies. Apart from specialists from Poland, a number of foreign guests gave lectures: Elio Mignini
- President of SICC (Societa Italiana di Chimica
e Scienza Cosmetologiche), Torsten Clarius
(Cognis) , Michael Schuricht (Symrise), Horst
Westenfelder (DSM Nutritional Products).
The Conference gathered about 350 participants.
AFC Conference was the opportunity to meet
scientists, lecturers , specialists and professionals
from Poland and European countries, among
whose there were representatives of ali most
important uni versities educating in cosmetology,
cosmetic chemistry and related sciences, as well
as numerous group of students.
Fig. I Elio Mignini. President of the SICC (Società
Italiana
di
Chimica
e
scienza
Cosmetologiche), during speech.
Conference materials were published on CDROM , which was g iven to ali Conference participants. Some materials will be published in
"Polish Journal of Commodity Science" and ali
the materials will be also ava ilable since I 5th
December 2007 on the web page of PSCC
(www.polscc.org).
The posters presented during AFC w ill be the
main subject of the next issue of PSCC Journal.
The next AFC Confere nce will be held in
autumn 2008. The details wi ll appear soon on
PSCC web page.
Acco rding to participants' opinions, the
Conference was the next success in PSCC activity. The number of participants increased by
over 60%, comparing to the 2005' AFC edition.
The level of speeches and posters were assessed
as very high. The significant participation of
you ng people among speakers and the audience
should be pointed out as well.
35
Special Reports
-
----~
[JLJu
modem, well-functioning organisation. She
organized Board Office, put in order of the formai affairs. She created fo undat ions of the
actual modem structure.
Joanna lqczy(1ska
Fig. 2 Torsten
Clarius
presentation.
(Cognis)
during
his
Discussion panel deserves for special attention .
It took piace on the second day of Conference. It
was the first meeting of cosmetological circles
differing one from another with the area of interests as well as views on countenance and
further development of Polish cosmetology.
Quiet tone of di scussion moderated by Prof.
Majewski indicates the possibility of agreement
and taking up unified actions by these circles,
the actions aim ing at further development of
cosmetology in Poland.
The X Jubilee of Polish
Cosmetic
Society
of
Chemists
On the first day of Conference, ceremony of X
jubilee of PSCC took piace. President of PSCC
delivered the occasionai speech. The cu lmination point appears to be presenting special guests with diplomas "Meritorious for Polish
Society of Cosmetic Chemists". The PSCC's
Board decided to honour the following people:
Founder of PSCC. Board of Audit's member for
many years. She always kindly offered her help
and experience. Facilitated the firs t foreign contacts and initiated and supported the developme nt of young generation of Polish cosmetologists.
Andrzej Sikorski
Pres ident of Board in 1997-200 I. Founder a nd
one of the initiators of PSCC formation. He led
the Society through the very difficult, initial
stage. He created fou ndations for the present
activity of the Society. During hi s term of office,
the Society was adm itted to IFSCC.
Wfadysfaw S. Brud, PhD
Founder and one of the initiators of PSCC formation. Member of the Board si nce the beginning of PSCC. Main adv iser in legai and economie issues . Inspirer of a number of ini tiatives
and organizational actions.
Fig. 3 Jan Kilinski Hall at the Chodkiewiczs Paloce.
AFC 2007 pleonary session.
Barbara Pirogowicz
President of the Board 2001-2004; member I
fo under of PSCC. In the period of fast development and increase, she transformed Society into
36
Prof. Maciej Jarosz
Professor at the Faculty of Chemistry of Warsaw
Un iversity of Technology. Among scie nti fic
authorities, one of a few, who supported deve-
Special Reports
lopme nt of cosmetic chemistry as scie ntific
discipline. His help and support facilitated organisation of the first nat ional and international
scie ntific confe rences organized by PSCC.
Cosmetic Chemists Societies from the forme r
commu nist countri es. O ur fri e nd fo r many
years . Due to his person, our Journal receive the
access to IFSCC Magazine and Kosme t database.
Prof Zbigniew Florja/1czyk
Professor at the Faculty of Chemistry of Warsaw
Uni versity of Technology. The Dean of Facul ty
of Che mistry in the period of Society fo rmation.
Among scientific authorities, one of a few, who
supported development of cosme tic che mistry
as scienti fic discipli ne. In the first and the most
diffic ult period , he helped in logistic issues, facilitating the opening an office and bestow some
space - rooms and halls - fo r the first national
and inte rnational scie ntific confere nces organized by PSCC.
Robert Fischer
Re presentative of H . Zio lkovsky Verlag, the
publ isher of SOFW Joumal. The great friend of
our Society. S ince the beginning, he suppo1ted
PSCC acti vity by its promotion in western circles of cosmetic che mists. One of the greatest
sponsor of Society's library.
Prof. Pierfrancesco Morganti
T he Pres ide nt o f In ternational Socie ty o f
Cosmetic Dermatology. Since the first meeting
with Polish cosmetologists, he supported us on
inte rnati onal arena. The proof of his persona!
com mitme nt is the numbe r of speeches duri ng
our sy mpos ia, se mina rs a nd congresses .
Untiri ng intercessor of cosmetic c hemists coope ratio n with medicai environment. To him ,
amo ng othe rs, we owe the idea of organizing the
meeting, which took piace during this year
Conference and gathered various cosmetologica! circles
Kart Raabe, PhD
IFSCC acti vist, especially involved in the idea
of supporting and promotion of developme nt of
Fig. 4 Jacek Arct President of the PSCC. and
Magdalena Lubbe vice-president o f the
PSCC present The Meritorious for the Polish
Society of Cosmetic Chemists tit le t o
Robert Fischer. from Ziolkowski Verlag fuer
Chemische Industrie, l omAnniversary of the
Polish Society of Cosmetic Chemists.
Ja11usz Jachowicz, PhD
The exceptional man . Po le, the gradu ate of
Techn ical Un iversity in Lodz. Due to his knowledge and talents he occup ied the highest positi ons in R&D depa1tment in one of the internatio nal concern . He never forgo t of his ho meland.
Since the begin ning of Society existing, he supported us in various, possible ways. Despite long
distance, he always found ti me to come a nd give
a speech within the range of o ur seminars and
conferences .
Jacek Arct, PhD
One of PSCC founders . The present Preside nt of
Board . C he mist. He created the fou ndati ons of
modem cosmetic chemistry in Poland . Since the
beginning of Society ex istence , he's been
respo nsible for educational and scientifi c issues
if its activity.
The cere mony was closed by the lecture on
history of cosmetic industry and its developme nt
37
Special Reports
in Poland before Second World War and it was
given by Katarzyna Pytkowska from Academy
of Cosmetic and Heal th Care in Warsaw. In her
speech, the speaker simply proved that the leve!
of Polish cosmeto logy that time equaled to the
one in developed countries of Western Europe.
The fu rther regress lasting since nineties of the
last century was the result of nationalization of
industry and economie conditionings in centralized communist economy.
F ig. s Aesthetic Meicine and Dermatology vs.
Cosmetology and Cosmetic Chemistry Pannel discussion; from the left Barbara
Walkiewicz-Cyranska. MD president of the
board of the Polish Society for Aesthetic
Dermatology, Andrzej lgnaciuk, MD
Director of Postgraduate School of
Aesthetic Medicine, Beata lwanienko. PhD
L'OreaL C hairman of the Panel: Prof.
Slawomir Majewski. MD. Academy o f
Cosmetics and Health Care, Hanno
Dolecka, Higler School of Health Science in
Bydgoszcz. Prof. Wladyslaw S. Brud, PhD,
Pollena-Aroma. Malgorzata ChelKowska,
PhD Deramika, Prof. Jacek A rct, PhD
Academy of Cosmetics and Health Care.
Aesthetic
Medicine,
Aesthetic Dermatology vs.
Cosmetology,
Cosmetic
Chemistry
Discussion
panel
On the second day of Conference we were plea-
38
sed to listen to the panel discussion between
representatives of different circles: aesthetic
medicine, aestheticc dermatology, cosmetology,
cosmetic chemistry as well as the representatives of cosmetic industry and universities and
academies educating in cosmetology.
In the disc ussion pane), the following scientific
authorities took part: Prof. Waldemar Placek,
MD, from Collegiu m Medicum in Bydgoszcz,
national consultant fo r dermatology; Prof.
Stawomir Majewski, MD from Academy of
Cosmetics and Health Care and Medicai University of Warsaw - as a discussion leader. Dermatologica! circle was represented by the President
of the board of the Po lish Society fo r Aesthetic
Dermatology Barbara Walkiewicz-Cyraftska,
MD.
Dr Andrzej Ignaciuk, MD, - Headmaster of
School of Aesthetic Medi cine of Polish Medicai
Association pait icipated in discussion panel as
well. Cosmetic industry was represented by:
Beata Iwanienko, PhD (L' Oreal Polska),
Matgorzata Che:l:kowska, PhD (Dermika) and
Wtadystaw S. Brud, PhD (Po llena Aroma). The
education within cosmetology was represented
by Hanna Dolecka (Higher School of Health
Science in Bydgoszcz). Prof. Jacek Arct, PhD chemist-cosmetologist, rector of Academy of
Cosmetic and Health Care in Warsaw took part
in the discussion pane! as well.
Ali participants agreed that the discussion
between d ifferent circles related to
cosmetology is needed. The pane! decided to
establish non-fo rmai Working Group, which
will aim at experience exchange within cosmetology and related sciences.
J. Appl. Cosmetol. 26, 39-46 (Jonuary/Morch 2008)
Special Reports
Cosmeceutical,
Nutraceuticals
and
Biofunctional Textiles for a batter quality of our
life: a meeting on Wellbeing in Beijing.
P. Morganti
Professor of Applied Cosmetic Dermotology, Il University of Noples - ltoly
Visiting Professor of Chino Medicai University Shenyong - Chino
R&D Director. Movi Sud s.r.l. - Aprilia (LT) - ltoly
The natural function of the skin is the protection
of the body against the loss of e ndogenous substances such as water and against undesi red
influences from the environme nt caused by exogenou s substances. lts basic function include
protection against stimuli , phys ical, c hemical,
and microbiologica! in nature; secretion of
sweat and sebum; regulati on of body te mpe rature; sensation of various outside cha nges; and
serving as part of immune system (Fig. I).
SKIN COMPONENTS ANO FUNCTIONS PERFORMED
ENVlRONMENTAL ASSAULT
~
-IO---
Mlcrobff. lladlatioft etc.
4 11raoum
~•Glond
_
~ -·'•=-:..........
.·---
~,..,..._...
BlOOO VESSELS
,.,.....
DERMIS
~~
~~AHEOOS f ~là~~~~~~
- - '=;??""
~·-~
LYMPH....__.,
J-
FIG. 3
While it has been known for a long time that
various physico-chemical features , including
low pH, contribute to the naturall y protecti ve
milieu of the skin , it is a rathe r recent discovery
that skin and other epi thelia harbor a large array
of naturally occurring antimicrobial peptides
forming an important part of the innate immune
system also. Thus epithe li al defense aga inst
infection agents relies on the recognition of
microbial products by patte rn recognition receptors and the locai production of a ntimicrobial
peptides .
These toll-like receptors are early sensors of
microbial materiai in both , epithelial cells and
dendritic cells, and thus init iate immune responses way before the specific or immune system is
alerted . However at the most of the time most
part of the humans skin is in close contact with
clothing and garments made up of d ifferent
fibers. Thus the bas ic function of clothing
should be in line with the basic function of
human skin. And what is more, innovative
clothing should be more than the natu ral skin
can do , safety granting . T herefore completely
new textile techno logies have recently been
developed worldwide and in China also, with
the goal of giving additional functionality to garments.
Nowadays, textiles have been improved for differe nt needs as UV and/or toxic gases protection, or to enhance breath ability, or to protect
against microorganisms , such as bacteria and
fungi. In addition, they may have integrated sen-
39
Special Reports
sors, to diagnose medicai conditions (Fig.2) or
may be equipped with carrier molecules to
absorb substances from the skin and release therapeutic compounds (Fig.3).
This was the topic of Prof. Hong -Duo Chen,
Prof Xing-Hua Gao,and Yu-Xiao Hung from the
famous and oldest China Medicai University in
Shenyang.
EAPSensors
Applicntions: scnsoriscd fobrics for rchnbili1n1ion
!· I
i
~Z,
>----'·~
Ir--·=-~
_,
·r,..,_~
r
.___
-<-~
Fig. 2 Sensor on textiles to diagnose medicai
conditions.
..
much attention to the safety of clothing and
fibers of different functions are being developed. Meanwhile textile industry is booming,
derrnatologists have established a bridging role
in testing and evaluating ali the effects of fibe rs
on the skin, at both lab and clinic settings. And
innovati ve textiles may be produced by the use
of the Italian patented chitin nanofibrils with
new properties and significant advantages, for
exarnple, in wound care. This natural and safe
polyglucoside rnay be constructed with cornbination of other fibers of different densities to
enhance and optimize the direct transport of
fluids into the textile (Fig.4), but it may be used
also to produce quality and natural textiles exhibiting antibacterial activities with a special wear
comfo1t cornpared to synthetic one. But according with rny opening topic this nanostructured
chitin rnay have an interesting use as cosmetic
and/or drug carrier and as a natural skin moisturi zing ingredie nt or as biodegradable polymer
for the engineering and rege neration of different
tissues (Fig.5).
?«,J_,...
, "'"lii'.'.!~~
•• • ••0 •
o0 o0oo~g0000000 °oo0 o oo~g~JJ0o0o
o 00~0000000 00~000000
Fig. 4 Textile produced from chitin ' nanofibrils.
Fig. 3 The cosmetic carrier composed of parti-
cles of different size may have a major or
minor penetrability power.
China has, in fact, the biggest production volume of texti le and the awareness of unwanted
effects clothing may have on human health has
increased also. Therefore, according with these
scientists, Chinese dermatologists are paying
40
Nanotechnology will therefore be ab le to
spearhead innovation , giving new impetus to a
globalized and even faster trade. But the ability
to market nano-structured products will depend
on the ability of companies to produce and contro! this new class of products, meeting the
needs of both man and the environrnent, on the
Special Reports
abi lity of govemment to regulate their production and use quickly and effecti vely, and on the
abi lity of the products themselves to meet the
needs and expectations of consumers.
Biofunctional textiles but innovative cosmeceuticals and nutraceuticals also, were among the
more than 200 topics presented , October 20-23 ,
of last year, in a wonderful Beijing.
Fig.
s Activity of chtin'nanofibrils on wound healing.
But what about Traditional Chinese Medicine
(TMC)?
According with Professor X iran Lin (Fig.6)
Dept. Dermatol of Dalian Medicai University,
cosmeceuticals have already emergent in China
from at least 1700 years.
In Zhou Hou Fang, a classica! medicai book of
ancient China, written by Ge Hong, formulae
composed of traditional Chinese drugs , were
used to improve people's appearance. Since
then, a number of trad itional Chinese herbs, as
Fructus Trichosanthis, Radix Angel icae Sinesis,
Radix Ginseng, etc. have been recorded in medicai literatures in the past dynasties to compose
form ulae used for cosmetic purpose. These herbal medicines , according to the theoretical
system of TCM, are deemed to possess the
actions of invigorating Qi and nourishing blood,
removing blood stasis, eliminating heat and promoting the blood circulation , removing dampness and relieving itching. These actions will
balance the Yin and Yang (Fig.7), coordinate the
Qi and blood, promote the physio logical fu nction and consequently bring about a holistic
cosmetic effect. This is why the trad itional
Chinese doctor refer to phys iognomy, wh ich is
the art of discovering temperament and character from outward appearance. For this diagnos is
he often uses the E ight Character system to
make a comprehensive analysis of the patient's
inborn and postnatal constitution as well as lifespan.
----
.jl;I; ..&\.
~ .......,
Fig. 7 A painting representation ofYin and Yang.
Fig. 6 Prof. Xiran Lin describes the activity of tradi-
tional Chinese Medicine.
The Eight Character are in four pairs denoting
the time, date, month and year of a person's
birth. The system is used in fortu ne telling and is
based on I Ching, or The Book of Changes, a
Taoism classic. In the ancient time, in fact, TCM
and Taoism were inseparably bound up in each
other. Many Taoists were doctors, and nearly ali
doctors were Taoists.
41
Special Reports
And ali of us obtained a royal welcome. Due to
this great success, it was decided to go on with
the next ISCD meeting doing the same period of
the year in Rome, a city considered to be a cultura! sister of Beijing, Rome.
Thus the 9th ISCD World meeting will be held
in Rome on October 22-24, 2009 on the subject:
Beauty outside in: East & West working
together.
In this occasion we will have the possibility to
create the base for a new wellbeing mixing the
best of the two different East and West way of
living
We are waiting for a your active participation:
contact the following e-mail: [email protected]
and ........see you in Rome!
Fig. 13 Dancing at the Welcome Banquet.
46
Special Reports
IMAGES FROM THE STH ISCD MEETING
Beijing, China, October 20-23, 2007
Moments of relax al the VIP Dinner.
47
ev
sµoda
01:::;ad
Special Reports
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Bag Claim!Wjf!l~
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Announcement
Baltic Association of Dermatovenerologists
INTERNATIONAL CONFERENCE
June 20-21,2008, RIGA LATVIA
For information:
Andris Y.Rubins,MD,Prof & Chrm
Riga Stradins University
Kr. Valdemara Street 76-75
Riga,LV 1013,
LATVIA
phone: 00371 2948 1725
fax
00371 673616 15
Email: [email protected]
Website: www.badv.lv
XVII
antloxldant dletary supplement
BE,TAE i;f E.
Per ridurre le alterazlonl pigmentarie E
Potenziare le difese cutanee del fototipi a rischio
To amellorate plgmentary skln dlSQrden
To lmprove skln defence of phototypes at risk
60 giorni Prima dell'esposizione solare.
60 days Before sun exposure.
Durante l'esposizione solare.
During sun exposure.
antioxidant dletary supplement
\\)\.e'"'
~\\.'<'
~
Per accelerare la melanogenesl e
Proteggere occhi e seno dal danni degli UV.
•
For more lnto nnatlon: [email protected]
www.mavlco smatlca .lt

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