MelanoBronze Natural Tanning Activator

MelanoBronze Natural Tanning Activator

MelanoBronze
Natural Tanning Activator
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
MelanoBronze
Acetyl tyrosine
Substrate for tyrosinase enzyme in
melanin synthesis
Vitex agnus-castus
extract
Induction of melanin synthesis in
melanocytes
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
MelanoBronze
•
MelanoBronze is a combination of two actives leading to an
accelerated melanin formation in the skin
•
Melanin is the body‘s own sun protecting system preventing
sun burn and photo aging in the skin
•
MelanoBronze stimulates skin tanning even without sun
exposure
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Melanocyte
Stratum corneum
Stratum granulosum
Keratinocyte
Epidermis
Stratum spinosum
Cell nucleus
Dendrite of
melanocyte
Melanocyte
Melanosome
Basal layer
Dermis
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Mechanism of Skin Pigmentation
α MSH
MC1R
cAMP
tyrosinase
tyrosin
DOPA
DOPA chrom
DHICA
me
lan
oc
yt
e
DOPA quinone
Cysteinyl DOPA
pheomelanin
eumelanin
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Acetyl Tyrosine
•
Stable, water-soluble substrate for tyrosinase
acetyl tyrosine
tyrosinase
DOPA
melanin
•
The reaction of tyrosine to DOPA by tyrosinase is the
rate-limiting step in melanin formation.
•
Result: tanned skin and increased UV self-protection of
the skin
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
The Role of α-MSH on Tanning
pituitary
gland
αMSH
bloodstream
Receptor binding
→ induction of melanin
synthesis
tyrosinase
tyrosine
melanin
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Processing of POMC
N
267 amino acid residues
C
proopiomelanocortin (POMC)
39
ACTH
31
beta-endorphin
13
αMSH
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Beta-Endorphin and Pigmentation
The beta-endorphin/μ-opiate receptor
system is expressed in melanocytes
and closely associated with
melanosomes
beta-endorphin
μ-opiate receptor
Melanocyte dendricity,
proliferation and pigmentation
are upregulated
Kauser et al. 2003 Journal of Investigative Dermatology
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Monk's Pepper Berries Contain
Phyto-Endorphins
•
Large shrub growing in
mediterranean region and
Asia
•
Berries from Monk's pepper
contain substances that bind
to the opioid receptor (PhytoEndorphins)
Chaste tree (Vitex agnus-castus)
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Monk‘s Pepper Berries
Traditional Medicine
•
Used since ancient Greek to
treat injuries and inflammation
•
In the middle ages, monks
used dried berries. They
probably experienced a
sensation of well-beeing
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Binding to the Opioid Receptor
Inhibition of opioid receptor
binding by an ethanolic extract
of Vitex agnus-castus
expressed as IC50-values
(μg/ml)
opioid receptor
μ
κ
δ
36
22
194
B. Meier et al. (2000) Phytomedicine 7(5): 373-381
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
MelanoBronze: Composition
Vitex agnus-castus extract containing:
Acetyl Tyrosine
Glycerin
Alcohol
6%
20%
20%
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
MelanoBronze
Natural tanning induced by two mechanisms:
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
MelanoBronze
MelanoBronze
phyto-endorphin
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
MelanoBronze
MelanoBronze
phyto-endorphin
acetyl tyrosine
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
MelanoBronze
MelanoBronze
phyto-endorphin
acetyl tyrosine
melanin
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
MelanoBronze
for Pigmentation with Sun
UV
αMSH
tyrosinase
pigmentation
UV+ MelanoBronze
αMSH
beta-endorphin activity
tyrosinase
+ acetyl tyrosine
pigmentation
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
MelanoBronze
for Pigmentation without Sun
MelanoBronze
beta-endorphin activity
tyrosinase
+ acetyl tyrosine
pigmentation
Acetyl Tyrosine
no tyrosinase activity !
+ acetyl tyrosine
no pigmentation !
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
In Vitro: Specific Stimulation of
Melanin Synthesis in Melanocytes
60
+45%
50
Melanin (ug/ml)
40
30
20
10
S-091
0
Control
0.03%
0.13%
0.06%
Vitex agnus-castus in the cultur medium
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
In Vivo
Stimulation of Skin Tanning
Study design
• Test products: test cream
cremes with 2% and 5% MelanoBronze
creme with only acetyl tyrosine
(same concentration as in 5% MelanoBronze)
•
•
•
•
Number of test persons: 20 of age 20 to 55
Application: twice daily for 7 days on the inner side of forearm
Irradiation: every day with 1.1 MED
Test parameter: skin tanning (Chromameter)
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Tanning effect (decrease in chromameter units relative to baseline %)
Result
4.5
4
3.5
3
2.5
2
Double tanning effect of acetyl
tyrosine and Vitex agnuscastus extract
1.5
1
0.5
S-106
0
Control cream
2% MelanoBronze
5% MelanoBronze
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
MelanoBronze ↔ DHA
MelanoBronze
DHA
(common tanning ingredient)
Stimulation of melanin synthesis
in melanocytes
Browning of the skin surface by a
chemical reaction of DHA with
proteins (Maillard reaction)
Protection against solar irradiation
No protection against solar irradiation
Slow but long lasting effect
Fast but irregular browning
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Tanning without Sun (after 28d)
1.6
Chromameter reading d 28 – d 0 [a.u.]
1.4
1.2
1
0.8
0.6
0.4
0.2
S-129
0
Placebo
2% MelanoBronze
5% MelanoBronze
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
MelanoBronze
Protective Tanning Enhancer
Claims
MelanoBronze provides nice regular
tanning by stimulating the natural
melanin formation
- with UV irradiation
- without UV irradiation
MelanoBronze leads to enhanced
pigmentation and protects your skin
against UV-induced damage.
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007
Applications
Daycreams
• MelanoBronze gives a natural tan and
protects against photo-aging
Sun protection products
• Sunscreens normally do prevent the
formation of a rapid tanning
• MelanoBronze in sun protection products
speeds up the tanning process
Self tanning products
• MelanoBronze induces the skin's own
melanin formation, enforcing your self
tanning products
© Mibelle Biochemistry, Switzerland 2007