singer - Ipernity
Transcript
singer - Ipernity
SINGER 650/670 THE SINGER COMPANY SI N GE R* With your new Sewing Machine ODLDEN Panoramic You will be able to follow the latest international fashion CONGRATULATIONS .... on vour dmoice of a top quality fullNth atured Singer Se wina machine With it you will be able to create beautifully aJlored clothing for your entire family, as welI as handsome decorative addiions to your home. The advantages built into this fine precision machine can be fully enjoyed and appreciated only if you vonipletely undiersand how to properly operate both the maddine and its versatile iccessories. BEFORE YOU SEW please go through this instruction book, page by page while seated at our machine Examine each section and perform each tFo; , peration in the sequence shown These few n roitcs of careful preparation will thoroughly familiarise ou xih the full range of the machine's capabilities You can then proceed confidently with whatever fashion creation or other sewing project you may wish to acconplish. .Sewing Congratulations again on your wise choice of the Singer machine that will prove to you for many years to come W•IAT'S NEW FOR TOMORROW IS AT SINGER TODAY I S I NGER* sevce Whatever you are, you will find expert. dependable Singer Service avallable. II your Sewing Machne should need servicing, call your nearest Singer Sewing Centre to be sure of warranted Singer Parts and Service, You will find the address directory. A Trademark of Tt*1SINGER COMPANY Form 30-1250 •v. oo;g ~Natd In W600,IeriOrmany Q1%? by The Siner Company coyigh 2 in the telephone Contents WSeEipao 86 No lnuexj Operating the Machine Pniwijal Pane Mots of We Nicdtine DIl) I. A .. Two Speed Foot Contro.ller Tteadlol Drite Sewing Snujtht >iitdnnq >t I Stn o hlan 'n ý ert Imotmlsomt 0 Sour stthunq fP,luan l and DmmnrtvoStcii....32 l 8 , s n•hos. 1 1 to32 ,, , IplHuldold 1h" If~ 1 1'.1 aml it1 NO1 Pot1 I>lF A ld 1,t .,] W i7o(i oI r 4 362 r 57 (I(t i .3 1t3, 70 sltlofn o W'I' Imic uoni 11" 'e':0 "In [T , lliq ItQ'0w ýp-~~~) m1 1 itH tltslnit (Steld stitdd 7l 2 46 mI! T, lI~~~t'2 M 0 iton, 31 3 12 2n,7Zoo i A ,. 17 t Nepl v ~ , RIqKW'0 lrai sto NirhMir S','d /i)l• i; {hI),,, V n%7 h"I .22 6 -9 Sesinq Light. ...... 7, 4 Reov al dud Ri~aesnee •A fh'tomtl' Ci, i at Xpplw only to ) Lhn i. - SI Page t up11 rit> Sa1 I mlld3 Sco'o', 62 61, 64 A 77.5 Al 26 SINGER 6f0 1,A ~ o n ei~ D lra l lt 'ai 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 2 4i SINGER 650 Principal Parts for 650 and 670 Machines I 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 It 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 Slide Plate Throat Plate Presser Foot Screw Presser Bar Needle Clamp Presser Bar Lifter Lever Pressure Release Button for Stitch Pattern Selectors Needle Thread Tension Built-in Needle Threader Pressure Regulating Dial Threading Chart Chainstidch Thredd Guide Link Type Threid Take-up Lever Needle Thread Pre-tension Stitch Pattern Selectors Stitch Width Selector Special Disc Holder Built-in Stitch Chart 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 Thread Guide Spool Spindle Thread Lead-off Spool Seat Light Switcd Hand Wheel Bobbin Winder Engaging Lever Bobbin Winder Spindle Stitch Length Regulator Built-in Sewing Light Bobbin Winder Pre-tension For 670 Madcine only 30 Cloth Plate Disengaging Button 3! Attachment Box Lid 32 Detachable Cloth Plate S .e jric ODive . 0 Before setting the machine into operation, be surf, itat the voltage and cycles stamped on the el+ctrical nmelate B are within thý rariyf marked otn the e-kc-ric meter in lti[ied by the +local poIr Company To plur in the macdtin, push 3-pin terminal p t uq C uilt( 3pim terminal bloýk at the right end of nmddne Then connect plug A to lectriadl outlet A Foot Controller 1hhe toot controller sets the imactune into opiration and requlates its speed The harder you press the pedal D, the aster the madchne will sew ntitl the mnachine reaches its top speed lower Speed Control [ r i, i ii aw +, •td 'pof~i , wl /1 dr-1 tho p1ýý t ilit ' r,l J \ w;' I"m '! :+ m I.. • . .. i,' , ýl p '•d jfwj, i; T , ,'f Io? ,*s .p'1w i' ho 1[[• , {'j,'. <i w t'I,ý .a ' t ýl, "M•IN " ]t•if 1. , p /•:, ,ý n/ fic r~friq, ,! fdidll,1:, w -I <ci up Pr. l-" 'pr~ r1 operl r•q liii> lm tii~hl qll p ,Vl• i >*!,1' lJ 3 I•l''< "I hl[ P iiott ,in , • ]" Information for 650 G 14 Machine The 650G 14 mndctine is equipped with a special hand wheel which can be used for motor and treadle drive Therefore, the machine can be changed to treadle drive addhtionally ... Wm in. MD The builtin sewing light is turned on or off by means of light switch F. which is localed beneath the arm top cover lid I F To change the light bulb /1 [lisco rnelI ptiJ fromi ( 1vrical outlllet before reoingO, nj ol'd bulb W1ith Inumb of rtqht hand, push on and down on rib of light lens (see Itiustratiol[ IDo not ittempt to utrs( ro" bulb out of socket, Press it intmolt w ,nd it tihe same time turn bulb over 71 r i ion shown to unlbok bulb pirn . Wi tlhdtt], bult Press new bull) f}I ,Aoket, with bulb pin G (qnterinq slot (A ,ocket and turn it over in direction shown to I e{k bulb pin G in proper position Unlocks Locks Bulb pin B Aiiil!i Treadle Driv. (For Machim only).00 In case that you do not have any experience in sewing with treadle drive - first it is necessary to become familiar with this type of drive. Loosen stop motion screw and place both feet on treadle, Turn hand wheel over toward you, allowing feet to move freely and lightly with motion of treadle. Practise this motion until you are able to re-start machine with hand wheel turning over toward yea Then tighten stop motion screw for normal machine drive. 8 To Replace Belt Remove parjeA 83). arm top cover (as described on Inert end of belt into cutout A and lead to tPpo that it enters groove in hand wheel, Lead belt around hand wheel and down tihrough guide of treadle belt idler pulley bl-acket B. Lead belt around band wheel in cabinet Join b:th ends of belt by means of belt clip. Ten. sion Do belt should be only heavy enough to ke.p belt front shipping . Replace arm top) Cover. Connection of Sewing Light Before inserting electric plug A. be sure that ý0otaqe stamped on nameplate B s,. within7 tange marked on the electric meter installed y the local power company Electrical Connection for Machne. Push 3-pin terminal plug C onto 3-pin terminal block at rioht of machine and connect plug A at other en.i of cord to electric outlet. l A ý13 Bumb replacement is described on page 7. Information for 650 G 14 end G 15 Machine with Selective Motor and Treadle Drive The 650 G 14 and G 15 madcines are equipped with a special hand wheel, which can be used for motor and treadle drive, Therefore, both machine models can be dcanged either to treadle or electric drive additionally. When changing over from treadle drive to electric drive, the belt has to be removed from the band wheel or the cabinet by throwing off toward cabinet wall. 9 Stitch Plaftiw TI stilh , ", i w1 macline .dt , ,ý ýI Selectors i. pattern of your I , lwre you start the pýh, Setting for Straight stltdng: AK Zigzag stltching: HIL Many (omb nbai ons are possible for decoralive sewing and practical sewing. Some of hese combinalions are shown on the stitch chart inside the cover on top of machine. This cover may be left open while sewing. A •00 To select required stitch pattern I. Turn hand wheel until needle is at its highest position. I2. Depress push button A and keep depress Aedunlil selection is compleled. I Push stitch pettern selector button in and slide to left or right to bring indicator line to desired setting Sti Width SleCtor You will ao need to el the lever for sew- To set stitch width selector ing. The stitch width selector does two jobs: traiehit stitdiing, rih: lever 5CR fil *~Pe n}!t--Ie p i~o)iin i•r•enre, riht or lefi]Normnatty, you will use setting 3 (centrej. Therelore, memorize the normal setting for straight stitching: AK3. * andr [e!r To position, ceprccsr 5111h widt'h s01( right. D) not set stith Width st lector while thfb e •ql-le is in It- hItsi(a Thc nuierwls fincatlv pos i)ens but tilts may also be used For zirigz stilt crin,this lever tontrots the setting of the width Straight Stitching: Needle Position Selling Zig-Zag Stitching: Stitch Width Setting 24 11! I a 3 imter i, d tale set- Stitch Length Requgltov Thý tn 1-- (bI eto didI ir ini y,,I dire( t or. The numpr,]rdisn •itlher side nwuan: Lelt hand side (20-61: Nun her of stitches per inch. Right hand side ( - 4): Stitch length in millimeters A slojertliii <*r!nro4 can be made in case of sti, len(l,!i k.,, bIarn 1 mm or 20 stitches per ilh The m -Vh iti length 4 min (6 stitches per inc-!1 (an bc lndked in place whIer, satId ong Lids, plvatý or muoltpie lavers ol heavy fabric, j1Unlock ... 12 22ocks To set stitch length Loosen thumb nut by, tlu rog ti. left PoStfin lever for desirerd stitch lt:ioith Tiqhyen thumb nut by turning to right By raising the stitch lenglh regulr tar 1o the highest point, reverse stitThnig is accompihshed at the same sl ithr length as forv ard It reverse stitching is desired with loiked stildh length position at 4 mm (6 sttudes per inch), turn thumb nut to the kit until shitt length regulator can be adjusted to its highest point at reverse stilching Throat Plate and Presser Foot I ( ;eeieal Putpow Throat Plate i, ( I i ] ' lo{~(Ih t dil, ! 1 !!F ll% 1 ,, Ti ;,. [ h illlli•, P , •i;1 Q ! I N {:i• ýt i ": * I l, I; I, St!itc r ý 4 Fied (pover Th ? .I , d . •l i,r ! 0 r~l I) Y 'l i •'Ii • q%~, •roa Plate <'A' l * i>Il t • 11"I 40 Plate T D Il I l,[• t 1 ,! b, , •, I I' - a d Plate 4 ASuihTrotPat ~~ ~ ~ ~ Chai la 1i7 2 Straight Slilfh Throal pl ! l [ Itr TI , •t )il ~~iii -1- '~~ }; Ik } " •ll 7 * - To Remove the Throat Plate Raise presser lai Turn hand wheel to raise needle to Its highest position, Open slide pla'e. Place both thumbs under throat plate ,r, and lift plate from unladtuie. To Insert the Throat Plate Place th.r,.t plit in position over two clampirn pins anJ re ease. The magnets draw the throcit *late intc proper position. Close slide plaie. To Change the Presser Foot Turn hand whebU to raise needle to its highest positi "n. Rave p--sser foot. Loosen presser foot ,'-rew i, filt the presser foot can be slipped from arwimd the presser bar. Presser Foot Litter Lever /ser 3 A normal lift of the presser in )t lifter level brings it up inll position I ant, by doing so the presser fort releases open ng a. Normal fabrics can be easily placed uwider the presfoot. For easier plafsing of thicker fabrics, th? presser foot thttr !ever can be raiked further to position 2. This raises the presser foot [a - 14 -. to its highest pr)si-ion b. When raising )rcsser foot li ter !ever into position 2 you t.ust overcome t spring pressure and keep the lifter le.eri n position since it does not lock in th ; pc.s;tion; but when released tle spring pressure returns the lifter lever ir.to position I1 Be sure that the presser foot Iter lever i; set •i position 3 before sewmCi md not left iit po-Ition I in error. Positton for darning Increase Decrease and embroidery operations S-eissure Dial I,dial regulates the pressure that the presso' f•oo exerts on the fabtic, Smooth, even hond!inn of several thicknesse, of fabric To unts when pressure is correctly regulated. I _,,ivv press r, is for thick fabric and light p) e(ýtS is tor thin fabric, Tor light a pressure will result in irregular Peoring which affects both quality of stitch ,.n I evtn'rss of seams. he I ressure not only affects Silth , boavY iV SePe I thedl Y out will also mar smooth 1aces daiJ pile fabrics. Sii fare 1inish, ds well as the weight and ,, lure o the fabric, must be considered in J •<mli nig the amount of press•tre needed, 'Itset the pressure Lowe- the presser foot To increase pressure, turn eial to higher number. To decrease pressure, turn dial to lower number For darning, turn di I to D, whirh releases pi-essýre and permri' darning without an embioidery hoop. Needle Thread Tension This dial regulates thp degret of tension on your ieedle thread. To incr.aso t-.t %vtt: I urn cia! to right hand side ýt h gh -h2 ,itbe*) To dnc.erise : furn Co;A diql to left hand T, Site (to tel Fr icetatled invtruc,.-z -pages 27 a.d 28 15 Needles and Thread T•)~~~ýý g'dli: lhýN''~f ', To Chlrmn [tiet Needle h i ttitl< N ull tl Ii l [ Zh 'I Il I/ f w I >H Ik I I1 1 11 iArd Vý • •1 i i' I II i Nee'tdle lind I hread Selectioin i, S m+ I, i I't. + i, + 1 I"I Fabric. Thread, No"dl and Stitch Length Chart Thread Fabrics Simsis Delicate- tlle, Needle S_ _Sites Straight Stitahig Macline Stltches mdi mm IS to 20 1-1-5 per n 60 matreivoed tlfton, one lace, 100 Cotton fPne Synlhe tir silk, orahndo fine tricot Thread Lightwelght - batiste, ngazbdlte0 Jerseyi coile, taffeta, silk, caepei plastic pin~ie Medium Weight inrq•uhma, manmade •atbri, pique, liben, ddatz, faille, satin, fine corduroy, snitfalls, cortn-barked plastc Medium Heavy - gabardine, tweed, sailcloth, denim, coatings, furnishing fabrcst60 Heavy - overcoatings, twill, upholstery fabrics, canvas ) Does not apply to cdainstltchi•g. 16 l Mercerized 80 to I•OCottica Thread Synthe~tic Pur~e Silktetlalc t 50 Mercerized 60 to O Cotton P14e lk2 Synthetic Thread- to I 40 Mercerized 40 n Cotton 30 Mercerized 24 to 40 Cotton 12to IS 1,-2 I18 tofor 10plastic) 25-3 18 15 1 toC12 2-2,5 a to 10 2,5-1 .S~po~ol...odr S; ofU( ShPp j)"o oftr.±"l 1ýd- 1 I ifd2A~ý~ r3 fqtrI Iu (111(l I.ýo Hie "t, d 'j ... uI ?ý Bobbin Thread To Wind the Bobbin • I Release hand wheel: Turn stop motion screw with right hand in direction shown arrow while holding hand wheel with hand. •by ]left 3 2 Slip bobbin onto bobbin winder spindle and depress bobbin winder engaging lever. • :3 Thread the machine as shown. Wind several coils of thread around the bobbin in direction shown by arrow, and start madune. A soon as enough thread is wound on the bobbin it will automatically disengage itself 7• 2 It ": Stop machine, raise bobbin winder engaging lever and remove bobbin fron, bobbin winder spindle. 4 Tighten stop motion screw with :ight hand in direction shown by arrow while 'holding hand wheel with left hand. Threading the Bobbin Case I Hold bobbin so that thread leads off in direction shown. 2 Place bobbin in case. Lead thread into slot and under tension spring. 3 Draw thread into notch at end of spring pulling off about 8 cm (3 inches) of threac across the bobbin.. • 2 4 Close slide plate allowing thread to ente: notches shown .......... .4 lei ~N rTT 4 19 Upper Throading Threading with Built-in Needle Threader 11, (iI' } 1:4> s" iiI ItI 2O. 20 r (1 T 1[i ' ! h~l l Ii, i,'i .. at , ý )1'{' t ,, (::ý "i,1 3N } dA ii , I1'), 1 k d'sý i I ]vll , th t. •!!][2!l %iti11i- • ý, <id t ý[ ii- 1, ,1 t ! thiq Iii .... ~A Removal and Replacement of Threading Hook ([}] •i!] or; 4) To Remove Threading Ifook Sw inq (dI)n0 ucf feilltreaidvi a. d, wkie~q mýIvfn nt tO1< ý . i, Cv.',~t' To Replace Threading Ihook rd Ineedle P[{~~~ilm ] ,:,i iodi, I P!:csiliorl ihlr~airtqi ti:,>o k b lw't' tihrenol >t't Oft) to nocdli> ttsresvle. Aliqn the h in th, hook an n, mes needl ,,l re d ;r, RepI >c 1 1(0, ti er sd: Push rear right angle edge of hook against threader and li hteerý scrcw, 11 t • ih!.ý7 11ý WI)• rteei t{, U [h ,. r it> )11> I1I' I (n 1 sthuw;rl itI €ritlll,' I ,ittlld 'rl\ S\%. t'r •1 1i1irlie 1[ mioo o Wl k Iwo "- . 1 1 , 'Idd Intel Tht' httk Itt'[ 1 j, 11"-, nitw ý tret] by 2 3 .. the f d m.. 21 Straight Stitching K ©3 Settings a e Fittings t*4, atlern selectors at AK (straight stitching) and tihe slit(h width Whcn sett not 1 centre needle position) you can use the following two types of ctt, selector a .( equipment, I. General purpose throat plate and general 1purpose presser foot. This is the basic equipment for all utility i (" 2. This equipment should be used where ac- MqO:curate straight stitching is required, when stitching sheer and flimsy fabrics. This equipment requires stitch width selec- 2. 1 2 3 4 S 1 2 stitchpresserfoot. -Straight stitch throat plate and straight 3 4 tor setting 3, otherwise the needle hits the throat plate or presser foot and breaks. 5 S * * To meet special requirements, you may wish to place a line of stitching to the left or right of center. You must use the general purpose throat plate and presser foot in this case (equipment I). Stitoh width selector setting I places sitithing Sttothe left; setting 5 places it to the righng Intermediate settings may also be used. Raise needle above fabric before moving selectors. 22 Raising The Bobbin Thread Now that you have threaded both the bobbin cAse and needle, you will need to raise the bobbin thread through tie needle holl In the throat plate. 1- Hold needle thread li jlP I With left hand (thread above i resse fool). Turn haf,. wheel slowly toward you so that needle enters throat plate. 2. Continue holding needle thread and uir ruing hand whet I until r oedle rises ant brings up bobbin thread in a loop. Pull the needle thread to raise the loop to the eye of the needle. A./ 3. Undo the loop with your finger. A 4. Place both needle and bobbin threads diagonally under presser foot, making sure bobbin thread is located in the rear thread guide of the bobbin case. 23 J 4, Sewing a Seam Set stitch lenqtIh regulalor tor tildl lhenqbh d(esr(d and needle thread hnsion to a mTrdium value, \.ith presser foot raised align fabric %,ih appropiriate seam lgude line orn the throAt ;.ite.Poitin eede ito!abcibout ¼ inch c co(I flIroim the r•ar edge, Lower the presser foot Set stitc lenIth ( reqULiter to revverse and badglitdh to end lfImndleridl loti{iliior(•> 0. 24 Set requlator for forward slitcinng anrd stitch to end of scare. Guiding and Supporting Fabric \lo.ohnc-!s !ed o be juidod in fronit of the p uesser foot only. Thte,quidelmh eý )f Ilit hrlid plwte are ,I moons to kevp the sedui straflbt, fhe OTOwni",I )ýT the oppo(site jill> strnt"on. Iu eqýXtra , m[!'A of 'b~ric It is best k t-e s•,.tti quld(, dhzcrnbed on polqe 6Of VI hi !rt 1ii !no,> (n I ,1 dO Vs <jit, >1)st~t~( i' fý'!d Off i Os hi, pu~ke~n Ittrie re t, Iftiri In thins o to pi-t C 0> hold 'VII theý sIt,~ l tik f 1Foil 'hmlhd I" nsetýt 50~~~~~~a' t >t> ((l Inr. p,,no 25 Stitch to edge ot fabric to complete seam. Set stitch length regulator to reverse and backstitch some vhata to reinforce end of seam. Turn hand whi el to bring take-up lever to its highest point. Thise presser foot and remove fabric, .. .. .... .. .... .. .. ... .. ........................ .. 2 6.•iiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiii~ H WCut -H.. both thread on built-in thread cutter, as ... hReset stitdi Hstitching. length regulator Pn rwovrd Reguiatiitg the Thread Tensions I>0 "U torrsros are( arp>t~t 1 . To cthtWin a pori-tet; Iroh, thev jntIco <LdSsttaw ke pore exacto in M, muldhI 'J To ieter ninno correot iensh m seftiig, Sew a NO Wan, NI a s;-mple Nyr rniWediurnoole j <(Ld tension Iapp4ox 41. IH thi t[id sia~an uoWS an in I u can -'w needle an .1 of te sewn q irbmhw by u<siiq *;crrot appCaflaCQe, ydjust the needle thread tension as lfolows. / g I 1: the thread bi ,ps lie on the underside of the thread tension is too loose, tIie ee , eto i ci r by tu,:i,,l the tension dial to higher (o numfe-, If the of the tight. ~ lower 'y udjutrIpihig 28W. thread boos lie on tne upper surface I needle threazi tension is too sear,Co( ct b tutnino tension dial to - u- be> I<5 -I hwr dloIwd sham tonusla n In nwrllum valueo i'nd IfCWhorial fII Ii rl ' n I a I I < $i n 0c70 o f th, ,r 1111 m 28 1 '•I 6t70 w boo iJ~I l ire 1 i ) hVt~ ti! ll 1 * / 1H l I l I-r Zig-Zag Stitching The ziq-zarl fn rtlresof your SIN'(;R sewrcog niadikratn give you arnalrmost unlimited dcotl Of 51itdtl patterns Sowle pattlerns arc, puel{y de coratie dand will give on an individualtoucd to your clothes and your home whie others are used for practical purpoe>, as Well H( 1rr re socre examples * The plain zig-zag stitch is used for buttonholes, UltODn sewlng, Seamll liruslng, apDfique work etc * The multiple stitch zig-?ag is well suited for faýtlning] elaslic anrd for all types, of household mnending * The blind stitch can * The overedged seam is appropriate for tuse II ptoducil u and finishing of seans in elasticiýzedl fabricS lbe ise~d hems, seam finishing et(c for producing Mi V V V V V V V jj4 JJJ) jJJjj VVVVV Y VVVV The stitch patteorns are prodiied oithor fronm the hlIttrn discs or fromI theitteirhangeable siti'al discs. A geat variedt •f aiditiulal s3tit f patterns tcan be obtained by- combining built-in discs with special discs Equipment for Zig-Zag Stitching ;456 x General Purpose Throat Plate Genera Purpose Presser Foot for plain xIg-2ag Specal Purpose Posner Foot for Sell stitching Stitching and open stitch patterns 29 Settings for Plain Zig-Zag Stitching 2 3 4 5 © Stitch Pattern Selectors at B L S• t 1,r tir, .... .nt . the zig-zag stitch; Sclettir sett; B , s fh nte edle posh lto)1 (coiltreo Stitch Width Selector: 2-5 The stitch width selector controls the st,tdc a idth (Refer to page It.). The settings iraaf from a maximum of 5 to a minuimum of 2. Raise needle above fabric before morving stitdc pattern or stitch width selectors Stitch Pattern Selectors left needle positionM at AL AL. Uýtý Palt-rn Selectors al B L centre needle po-iticon BL S;~t~n th ttern Selectors at C L right needle position. Left and right neaedle positions are oniy effective at stitch widths loss than 5. Selector setting B is generally preferred. Settings A and C are only used when special placement of stitidnng is detsired. For example, Buttonholes, button sewing 30 i Satin Stitching Satin stitchinog a st•iwst of i•! srd. Z1q-iaq stwfres.' uses it"e "ina "J Ito st tdi length reguflator 13s I sewinggsuisul l can be obtained by uing he special putpose presser tona Some fabrics may require the addition of a backinc; to lensure firlm 'sflr stodrmn (' organdet or lawn is suitable for this propo e . a Adjusting stitch length: The identded bthind the stitd indi(a)or, a, siown in tar 'Hliostrist I'll provide~s a means rof ilraduoali shortiening he stitch lenglh. As thre regulator knot) is tiurned, the p unotl~ rides deeper into this indentation unit a closed satin stitch s obtained The excact staitc len(,thl will vary wilh tile texture Of tile fabric It is advisable to makei a test oil d scrap of same falihe first, before proceedinq wsith actual work .a12.. VV . Adjusting needle thread tension: Satin sttdtle requires less needle thread tension than straight stitching or open zig-zag designs, Furthermore, the wider the satin sticd, the lighter the tension on the needle thread must ___ ...... ....... be. To determine correct tension setting, a test sample should be made on same fabric. A properly balanced satin stitch should lie flat across the material, Any tautness or pu&*e-.....1ot rinq indicates too high a needle thread tenSion.. a~lu kttn .Voped Wil vief - 31 Practical and Decorative Stitching Basic Patterns - Built-In Discs L N P R MNIjyjSpecial B The seven built-in discs are represented by the letters L to R. If you move the stitch pattern selector to one of these letters you will get one of the basic patterns shown below. The lower stitch pattern selector is generally set at B = centre needle position Setting A represents left, and C represents right needle position, as described on page 30. L.... N L =Zig-Zag StIlgh 0 = BlWn Muff The stitch width selector controls the width of your stitches. The widest stitch width (setting 5) will generally produce the best sewing results for the pattern. Raise needle above fabric before moving stitch patltern and stitch width selectors. . 0 = Multtp=1-Sutdi Zig-Za. 32 P Q if. Basic Patterns - Interchangeable Special Discs The five interchangeable special discs that come with your sewing imachne can be used lo produce still other basic patterns. The circledl tlor exampleQ§ in this book indicatenumbhers special disc numbers 2 nf 3 22YVVYYVYVV. *<Od dgflfl edged soms. (Refer topage7 0 . ) When you use a special disc, the upper stitch pattern selector must always be on Special. It you then set the lower stitch pattern selecfor on A, B or C, it will place your stitches at left,centre, or right (Refer to page 30c) B (cenlre) is generally preferred, with special discs, setting 5 will generally produce the best sewing results for the pattern. The stitcrl width selector can then be used to control the stitch width. Also when working Combined basic patterns can be pages 34 and 35. To Change Special Discs I. Raise stitcli chart cover Remove disc and I Raise needle to itshighest point. 2 Move tipper slitch pattern selector specral. N PR off seen on place another on spindle, push down until disc snaps in place. 4. Set upper stitch pattern selector on special. L N P R KNO NPR /M/O00Q • K,•M Specia l 33 Combination Patterns You can nmbier, tvo basic patterns either * By selecting two buit-in disc positions or " By selecting one built-in disc position and <one irtletharyiealen sprcial disc, As we have seen, lth letters L to R of the, upper sWiIch patteri selector represent the built-in dhscs arid spec-at represen s the inl rdchaigecbe spta ,t disc:> Since there is only one selector bulton for setllng ihe letliets L to Speoial, how is it possible to conmbine two bhasifpatt[(nYs? The arnswer is that tho etters D through J of the lower stitch pattern selector also represent the boilt-in discs. As shown below, D corresponds with L, E corresponds with M, and so forth. In this way you cati conmbitne two basic patterns L M D E Upper Stild Pattern Slector N 0 F P Q R H I J Lower Stitd Paftern Selector IPlease note " When set out combination patterns, the stitch woidth seleclor no longer controls stitch width but it vaies the pattern and may he set t> 2, 3, or 4 (not 5). * Combination patterns cannot be used with two nee~dles Example of Combination Pattern Varied by Stitch Width Selector 23 0 '4-i JL2 4 JL 3 JL4j the Examples Coutbton mtnSe n4 Retaled (Some examples are also showa in the sttft coat cover a top of ¥YOrt nddnt) Mase neede above fabric before movin stitch pattr and std width ae,Odomn Lo.we SUh Patter Select"r Upper Stitch Pattern Selectr D Specia Sp2atial . 7.MW Suf sole® D Spedia S3j D SP~ 2 D P 4 Tflflj¶JflLMXVLXLPLPLP B P 2 tA~-7> F 0 2 F F 2 kAAAAA~~4~ G M 4 4101W W MW41iA~ G P 4 G speat® 2 G Special H Speal ® I L ( 4 --.-.- -.. -*" v-.•. -.-.-. . .. -. r~fllr . f ;t A~ 40AWM1,4 * -1- " 6Mr ----1: 4..0 Of ' 4 2 35 Two-Needle Stitching By using two needles at once, you can produce two parallel, closels spaced, decorative lines of stitching simultaneously. You can use either one or two colors of thread; oid you can choos%, either a stiaight stitch setting, or o ne of the basic pattuns. (Cormbinatilon patlerls Cannuot be used for two-needIle work.) Some of the attractive designs you (cn teaIc are shown on page 38. How To Insert Second Needle The needle clamp easily accomodates two needles, Catalogue 20120 ([15XI) To insert the needle, simply loosen the needle clamp screw and insert the additio nal need e from the right with the long groove toward you. To Thread The Machine place firstI spool of thread onto spool holder and lead thread through eye of first thread quide. Raise stith deirI cover and insert auxiliary spool holder (which is furnished with the machine) into hole provided for it. Phwc second spool of thre•ad onto auxiliary spool holder dard thread ds lor one-needle shiching (see page 20), making ceitain that both threads are separated by the center disc of the needle thread tension. 36 Straight Stitching With Two Needles KK h2S2j m 2 A Basic Pattern Stitching With Two Needles I pper Stit(I P *ttrrn Se!ector: L to Spoctii •, Io <r SW di Palteon Solirtor: A ý (WidIh SSBlorr: 2 or 3 (maximnumn) Sit, Throot Plote CenIipo>' Pros or Fotot Gen0ro pnrpuI' 01 Special Purposv L N PR A 37 Eraqi.. of onom&.v Two-NabcU S"tIdg settiStinhgn ® A Special 3 A Q 3. A N a A Special A p3 3a.a. 4a ®-3 A SpeciaW 3 A 0 3 Special Disc Numbers 00 A.. M a. . V. . aa 0WONNO rCCCCC. . Chainstitching \4omre ,, ny o'her sewlinl roat<1inem yair aw >I\(I;R will ehliiiileao toseidEtiMle , tistimin4if aniiiht~oitw imartie wOt k plt nstV doiae by hllnd in that blok sidlo old sinqle thread inslilehinq cln be "olt hIV[ vo vr •lot •tha nialcine. Th Is ( ibl's vou to usetýa•i to Iitms new waYs teinrl 1inbine, Il, sal in" of lahle. <eI bolhbin es are! linked madlonlef, {Ill like liavfnrj " tIt -lerlohtinq loops on the underside If the Fhi, slithebe ire produced bv the httoid dkmie so you do nlat need thrd or i holbiri Ben• lase• th stitl> formed e f]vdinile bs a sl thread, th(eIntl ops trislra' easily" The entirt line ion[ I ta0] (d f otetVI'd 'iIth ust atpl! i onII,thelstad end, A Is,, the, lopl formation l t1he sottlaes makes them less tau!t i•h ;mqlth-thread rtahinslitcuint look's like rtga' reqlulr straiqht sI ches. That's what makes Lit zloirlil slitimq on top. hot itis a s rti>' rtaitliinhtinilIt f xlibh Top Side of Cl•halstltdl Seem Underside of Chalastlitc Seam Hiere are a few of the many sewing jobs for wihich you will find chainstitcdinq useful Basting -- trial seorns for fittinqt ront0u(Ilon qtdel]ies, z)!pper opt rlinin s. lIningsS arIid ilIttriIcings Hemming curtains and draperies thlb ina t1i (lto be alltoed teei To, poesem, Stay-stitching datin II S st rb(III b]M (jO[IiI, Ls q( tIis..'oi Fastening removalble trimmning - ',unt' collars white collars and auffs hlpeF Se wing ternporary tucks aking a', tar I d Il h III welling ior corded for d(iidren r I I dy ' searms, 1ý IWholtr I[ cording _ [or IrnTnlt iiii arId bo lttolt 1( Attaching hem tape and Plastic waisltIfarl- Stitching seams in knit and stretch garments Some examples dre iliuas:ao d oil alrtl' It To Prepare The Machine For Chainstitching I . Remove regular throat plate and bobbin. ... .2. ZTilt Insert chdTistitd, loop retainer into bobbin case (Illustration 1) latch Ulllustration 21 and turn to the rear against stop (Illustration 3). I. Insert chainstitch throat plate 2 Machine Settings Stitch Pattern Selectors: A K Stitch Width Selector: J Stitch Setting: Norally set for maximum length, approx. 4 ram; but any stitch length between 2 and 4 Tnom may be 3 "used. Presser Foot: General Purpose or Straight Stitch K A 40 Threading in ddit ion tof 1he nor-mal threading You must ,dso pimý nee-dle thread through Cyttlet in the dawnsi•tc, thread guide. To Adjust Thread Tension Chamstitdunq requires generally less needlethread tension than regular straight stitching, when compared to the same size and type of thread When the tension is correctly adjusted, the dsam will be flat and smooth. A Puckers in the fabric and pindced loops indicate too mudc tension; turn tension dial to a lower number. Large, irregular loops indicate too little tension, turn dial to a higher number. 41 Stitching S. 'I When starting mnake -sure that the take-up lever is in its highest position, T1is will prevent the needle thread from pulling out of the needle if the thread has been crt too short. Caution, you may sew forward only. Position neeodie in very edge of fabric, lower .the presser Ioot and stitch. If tile material is pivoted at thie neodle for operations where cornering is required, mjjitke certain that the needle is on its upward movement (approx. V, inch [I cmj abov its lowest point) to avoid skipped stih les. Then continue to stitch in thle new direction. To Remove The Fabric The ,asiest way of reimoving ili fabric is to New off the edge of the fabric (Illustration I) while sighftly pulling on the material, This produces ar chain which should be cut sonme distance away from the fabric (Illistration 2). However, if the seam is ended before the edge of the fabric, bring the take-up lever to its highest point, then lift the presser foot and pull some thread through the take-up lever fror the spool pin (Illustration 3). Now draw thre loose thread between presser fool plate and top surface of fabric to the left with the scissors (Illustration 4) and then cut the thread approx. '/, inch (I cm) above fabric (Illustration 5). Remove fabric from the machine by pulling it straight back, away from you. This will cause the thread end to pull through the fabric to the underside and form a temporary lock (Illustration 61. If you wish to secure this temporary lock, fold the thread end back over the chain and fasten with hand stitching. q-, 42 To Open The Seam Chaiestitdhnj (an be removed smoothly and cleanly in seconds in vme direction nly. fro" the end of the seamn toward the start of the seam. The opening direc tion is distinguished Ithe <troweoads of the loops on the underside of the fabric wh.d, po.at t•oard the bei~fnnio of the stCa. To open the. seam, smiiply cut the last loop formed on the undersic, of the fabric (Illusftr tion I and 1hen pick up the freed lhread end from the top surface of t1 o tebric fIllustration 2 Uy a single pull (1].u With this free thread cnid the entire line of stitdnhleg can be removt strai~on 3). To Change from Chainstitching to Lock Stitching p.•4rep t i Žq the bobbin and iserting the desired zig -zag o str go; st i Idthroat plate. 43 Ways To Use Chainstitching here (al0 s tT •ertd oV illýtIidl you will flid <.iianstchin, prtriole ro either retitar R9 lt, ris a r e ist ed ion p a q j q e ~ l i< >nal u g ij t uq A] tildd rind i d ihq•! ' týt Garment Filling Tunie and 01>0 rqx s tii-fung 1, is U d !i'i•at lie t ei•it in/ l! xhnian iuIC [lt S or , muslin s'lhs f'o Iria]l h'ir'qrs The lirrmues th it IIIf V!-' ItS(' d(CýMl y inl lthflc , Nil t'if 1 the stlil•dhn rWin I( ripped(ilt in seconds if ddtuljU i ts itr(l At r(1± tSAr- Construction Guide Lines ....... Growth and Shrinkage Tucks T lj(k5671 I Fr(1qu(!ll0[V1)1,1 iuji t rlm l, 'ild dl!!'J (olý , . ,• ] ýJ" ]. l ' f" ehilds, + ]a many instances, construc-ton quide Ines for pockets, but tol nh]les, atild oher detals can be advantageously marked kUIh dhainslitch basting. The studsinq will qive clearly defined line marking. Yel, unlike dialk or pins, it will not rub olf or becomie lst as the fabric is handled, This method lerid itself particularly to use on wools and other fabrics that do not retain needle penetrations. ---- y ItJill ....... fi'r ik riowilt -i, I hii ir iirinkijq, t,(Io nit tlo ly"is no I ln r '! r l i,chr 11f ttilks tIrt diistidl~diet NSi11116l urhodk Ilhe I1s looIp f ' 11a1i! tilted Iuluthea iI ,it the luit 44 ~ jt Attachments Note: The attOcmrntnts whidc ore not regularly furnished with your madcine are available for separate purdcase at your local SINGER SEWING CENTRE. 45 sp~i! ft". Poo This light, flexible foot is designed for satin and decorative stilding. It provides maximum visibility anti manoeuvrability while allowing closely spaced ziq.zag stithies to feed freely. The eyelets in the foot accomodate a filler cord. The special presser foot is ideal for accurate placement of satin stitching in buttonholes, monograms, motifs, applique work as well as for cording. SUtic Pattern Seledors: AL Buttonholes Stitch Width Selector: See below Always make a test buttonhole on a sample of your fabric Be sure to duplicate the thickness of the gfarmeent and include interfacing if appropriate. You will need two stith width settings, one for side stitching and one for the bar tacks The (hiee possible settings are shown below Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot, Special Purpose S Stidt Length: More than 20 sttches 3 46 4 5 1 4 2 3.4 ~I Marld I I Lin" .t~~ Space Cuwugt u Sabl Sttldiddg Buttonhole Length First, decide how long the cutting lengith needs to he, (the opening through which hie button passes). This will depend onl thle diamneter Cond thkidness of the button, To find the right lengtlh, cut a small hole in a scrap of your fabric and graddually enlarge it until thle button slips through easily. The length of the finished buttonhole will be the cutting length plus 1/a inch (3 mm) for each bar tadck Then mark the buttonhole on the fabric as shown above. The procedure for making a buttonhole is described on the next page. Raised Or Carded Buttonholes Both fine pearl cotton (size No. 8) and billionhole twist make suitable raised buttonholes. filler cords for Place the spool of filler cord on the sec ond spool pin. Lead the cord through thre fuist thread guide, straight down betwev len then-c Ire and back tension disc, into the largle thread guide and then through the eyelet on the special purpose foot. Draw the cord under and in back Of the foot and proceed as for regular buttonholes, 47 Sftiohin Procedure for M~j) a salA0e Set stildx pttemn selectors on AL and stitch width selector on setting desired for side stitchiag of buti tonhole. Place work under needle, aliing Centre marking or buttonhole with centre score line of C 56 C special purpose foot. Side Stlching: Position needle in fabric at point A. Lower foot and stitch to end of marking. Leave needle in fabric at point B, Raise foot and pivot work on needle, Lower loot. Take one stitch without changing stitch width selector setting, bringing needle to point C. 3 J 5 1 2 3 4 5 Bar Tackt Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks and take at least six stitches. Stop at point D. 1 2 2 . D EI Side Stdtilngt Readjust stitch width selector for side stitching. Complete work to point E Leave needle in fabric, 48 E Fin Bar Tat(. Adjust stitch width selector for bar tacks and take at least six stitches in reverse, ending at point F. Fasteni Stitch To seaure stitching, move stitch width selector to I and take three stitches. Remoye work, draw threads to the underside and trim. Cat opening for button with sharp scissorsý Applique Applique odds beaury and interest to wearnq dpparel, hotes and fabric furnishings. Either contrasting or fabric self can be usqedl effectirely. 'the st itch most comnmonly used in dppiigueing is a closely set zig-zag stitch (basic pattern BEL The width of the zig-zag stitc cdn be varied to acconiodate fabrics of dilferent weaves and textures. Combination patterns and variations can dlso be used to applique with decorative stitching. There are two methods by which applique work can be done. The appropriate method is determined by the fabric being used, and a test sample is advisable. Position the design properly and baste it to the fabric. Attach the special presser foot to the presser bar. Method No. I Set stitch pattern and stitch width selectors for desired applique stitch. Stitch, outlining the design with applique stitching. Any excess fabric on the outer edges is trimmed away after the stitching has been completed. Remove basting. Method No. 2 Adjust stitch pattern and stitch width selectors for straight stitching (A K 3). Outline the entire design with a short stitch. Trim raw edges to the stitching. Readjust stitch pattern and stitch width selectors for the desired applique stitch and overedge the design with this stitching. A smooth, lustrous finish results, which requires no additional trimming Remove basting Corded Applique Corded applique, which gives a raised, threedimensional effect, is a particularly attractive finish for lace applique. OF Either method of appliqueing can be used when cording is desired. The only change in procedure is the introduction of the cord, over which the applique stitching is formed. See page 47 for threading. 49 Monograms and Motifs Many of the decorative stitCh patterns (cn Transfer the design (by tracing, usually) to be used for tihe creation of attractive monograms and motifs. You can buy designs -or create them yoursell Make a sample first, to determine suitability of stitch pattern and hnd the right stitch length and width, thread tension, and pressure. Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL for zig-zag stlthtlng See pages 32--35 or stitch chart for decorative stitches. Sttch Width Selector: 2-5 (2--3--4 for Combination Patterns). Stitdi Length: More than 20 st:tdhes per Inch (Less than I pIm)h Throa Plat Inoneunder Throat PlateGeneral Purpose Presser Foot: Special Purpose 50 the right of the fabric. If the fabric is soft or loosely woven, baste a backing of lawn or organdie to the wrong side. After stitching, trim any excess fabric close to the stitchng. To Find The Beginning Of The Pattern Unit To reproduce a specific portion of a stitch pattern, first stitch on a scrap of material until the desired point in the design is readied. Raise presser foot and remove scrap. Bring motif or monogram into correct position needle; lower presser foot and stitch. This procedure is recommended for all precise design placement. Leaves, and flower petals, for example are created in this way. Free motion embroidery with hoop can be seen on page 75. Seaming Shears Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL Stitdc Width Selector: 2 Stlich Length: About I mm Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Fool: Special Purpose A da ity hairline finish is particularly desirable, for the inside seams of sheer collars, facings and yokes. Seam allowances that ordinarily show through are eliminated. IRoth heavy duty thread and tatting thread make suitable filler cords (see page 47 for threading). Stitch along seam outline (covering cord i used). Trim seam allowance close to line of stitching. Turn and press. 51 Couching Nsovel uff ocl <ii, obl wdtby> cowt nqq vtr~i or bri'd %'IOh dcrmalvel~ stil tP patterfl%. SptIdcI patlt&m>, dto tfl<* mo!ppromsr>±tta s Iithey allls• th dt (oto itývt o,:d lo show •s ptlrt ol thtf sigýýJqný Rhfor to jmgo 17 for throthnkg instructions Lace Edging and Insertion D)eh0lcot •appts 'Ind I durable 7ig-fi atepl< ( 1"r tho homl stitridling is app•f of (<1(30(35 mnwtld edgin uerhti:ns. \I..aN A 52 dot• alhve stldi pattemns c'nl be used effeLtively sorvin]q ds both finish dnd trim. The space between the holes in the button determies the stitch width settings For buttons with standard hole spacing, ruse settings I and 4. The number I setting is constant, but 4 can be increased or decreased as necessary to accommodate buttons with unusual spacing. Stitch Pattern Selectors: AL Stitch Width Selector: I and 4 Feed Cover Plate Button Sewing Foot. Set stitch pattern selectors at A L and stitch width at I Atachi fee(d cover plate to OiOdi he. Position fab ric and button under loot so that needle will ent(r left hoe, Turn hand wheel towdad vou until needle rises out ol the fabric and is just above the foot. 2 3 4 Set stitch width at 4 The ne•dtle should then enter into th,, right hole o I the button Take aipprox imnately six zigzai} stitbhes in this position. End on the lelt side. 5 2 Knelloorm 3 4 5 To fasten stitching, adjust to number I stithd width setting and take approximately three si tdies, 12 3 4 5 In order to frorin a thread shank, stitch over a regular machine ncedle. Position button and lower button sewing foot, Place needle in the groove of the foot so the point enters the hole. a long shank, stitch over the heavy end of the 53 iiGoiteral Purpoe Foo • ~ foi with the g]eneral purpose throat plate, this foot provides a wide noodle slot which accomodate.s allslot(h settings and c~anl be used for most sewingJ operatoions. Applications: Seams and darts, sca~lloping; blindstitca loons; mending and maintenance. Lingerie Seams Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL Stitch Width Selector: 211. Stitch Length! About I -- 2 mm dependingl on fabric Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot: General Plurpose To make a linqero se,ým ýýcafile and flexible, first straight stlco ý)oýi selectors at A K3) hitted scearil on wiý 1 ide and press both seamn allowdlices, to ri,ýýdv. Flom the w h _qý,c seting sie, righ i,;)stith ler h on• BL 21h, lettingl the nlekd!4 , rnw ~k the seam line dnd ler!!1 Flat Felled Seams Stitch Pattern Selectors: BL Stitch Width Selector: 3 Stitch Length: About I --2 man depending on fabric Threat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot: General Purpose For heavy duty, strain pro',t Seams, u-e double interlocked foamf, zig-fag stitched tin both sides with seltitng B L3. Stitch the seam on I te rightt side of the fabr c, m d osje ta igflse Press the seam op(,i, then fuhi and press the seamn allowanceo o one side, ko epingl the rigiht side of the stic ({}1rin top, Trim the under seam allowance to one-half its width. Turn the upper seam allowarice edge event), over the trimmed edge, and top stildo 54 Seams In Knit Fabrics Seam Finishes Stitch Selectors:2 1. Stitch Pattern Width Selector: Stitch Length: About o.r 2 Shratd Plaen: Generab put Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot: General Purpose Stitch Selectors:4 -BL,5 BO or EQ Stitch Pattern Width Selector: Stitch Length: 2- 4 num depending on dchoice of stitch and fabric Throat Plate! General Purpose Presser Foot: General Purpose Seda•is in (fabrics Him st retid or bids scants in Sedia firm fabri(s aroe olen sta yed with seam tape for durabiliy. Position seam tape with ecdge exactly on samd lin e, If seam is urved., preshape tape to fit by steam pressing Bast, tape in place, if necessary Stitch with ine ziq-vag stitching (B121, allowing neertle in enter seam tape antd sean allowance alternately Press seamin open after clipping on curve, be given a duoable finish if the fabric is likely to raVel. Make a test sample first to deteHmisie whe. thvr ?ig-za{g stirch L blndstich 0, or men ding sutch 0 best suits yout fabric. Also adjust stitch length anti wiith settings to suit labric Choose the settingis that will give you the Most 'open' stiich ihat will secure the fabric edges Avi htmsh, over-sti(thed lir edges Trim seam edgbes eve By Place slitchi teta f ] b,c•irqe of the scans allowanrce oi over thin , -sl as illustrated edges support the garimetnand should 111 Ac `-4 4-- i ?. 5< 4'• 4- Darts Darts provide fit and contour in a garment and should be accurately stitched. A straight stitch dart (A K 31 is usually formed by stithIng from the seaam edge, tapering gradually to the point, where the last three or four stitc•tes are parallel to the fold. Stitch beyond the told to 1l0ic a thread chain approx. VI to 'ý inch (20 core it length Tie the thread ends into a single knot close to the sitiLdnng. Thread ends at the point of the dart are eliurirnated when the single thread principle i% employed Unthread needle arid with Lhread leading through the throat plato front bobhin rethread needle from back to Iront. Tie bobbin and upper threads Ioget her, [raw knot through all threading points including d ke-up lever eyelel and tension, winding on the spool to complete stitdcing the full length of the dart Take any sladk out of the threaddby turning the spool. Lower presser font and stitch Iron, point of dart toward edge of garment section and backritdh to reinforce, This m-thod is also ideal for inside darts in Sheer fabrics. NOM .enouqh Darts In Interfacing Non--woven imeerfacionqs (an be shaped without bulk with zig-zag stitcding, Stitch pattern selector settings BL or BO can be used *Cul ~ends, * 56 out the dart allowance on the stitching line. Bring raw edges together and pin over a muslin stay, and stitch, Backstitpl at both Scalloping Dainty scalloped edges are used extensively as Self t rimming on)iblouses, dresses, l ingerie arid children s clothes, 'I/ inch (3 mm) and clip into the points betwe~en scallops. Some fabrics may also need notching, for a smouther, evenly turned edqe. Stitch Pattern Selectorst Turn and press. When forming scalloped tucks, add additional V. inch (8 mm) to tudk allowance for seaming. Stitch Width Seledor: 3-S Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot: General Purpose Perfectly formed and evenly spaced scallops are produced automidtirally at slitch pattern selector settings BR or BST. Setting BR results in a 12>sti h ,tallop, and BS() in a 24-sitctd scallop Stitch length regulator a•n stitch width selector vary the length andi depth of the scallop. Place right sides of fabric together (Shaped or bias edgos should he interfaced. Stitdc scallop. After sti tdclrg, trim allowance to less than Wrong side of scallop Right side of scallop 57 Mending The multiple-shi ch z g- Jg is welt suited lor at types of ho isehold mending. It forms a firm, flexible bond for the rel~ir if rents and tears, and is ideal for the <einforcement and application of elastic Sti:ch lhngth aid width are regulated according to need Stitch Pattern Selectors: BQ Stitch Width Selector: 2-S Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot: General Purpose Rends and Tears: Trim away ragged edges. Place dn underlay on the wrong side of tear o'r reinforcement. Using multipie-st lid, zig7ag B 0, follow the line of the tear bringing 1hfe edges together. Shorten slitch length at vilds and corners to give extra strength. Application of Elastic: Elastic, such as used in waist bonds, must be Stretched as it IS applied, to ensure fullness required in the garment. Blanket Binding The multiple-stitch zig-zag B Q is an excellent stitch for applying blanket bindings and affords both a decorative and durable finish. Remove worn binding. Baste new binding securely in place (stitch width selectlor at 5) and stit. Adjus' presser foot pressure if necessary, to accommodate the thickness of the blanket. 58 Darning With some kill you can easily and quickly perform all types of darning on your mactine For this purpose you can selectively use I tihe genterdl purpose presser foot 'r 2 the darning and embroidery foot. I With General Purpose Presser Foot Frst of .ll set p eusure at D (rNote L p( I and stitc length it-qulaitr ai 0 IMMI Ný,, attach beed to'c Iplate to nourh bed In palate of req or Iolroot Plate. Stitch Pattern Selectors: AK Stitch Width Selector: 3 Stitch Length: 0 Feed Cover Plate T iin Presser Foot: General Purpose Presser Foot Pressure: Dial Setting D rto qqod dq,, from irea, to• be 0, ti1 uretor I*-dte aiil rito t r•.... ,,-r loot t,attuloe hc roeedie thretid I ... I old noodle thiear•loloely with htt hortn tarn hlnd wheer t1oNait! vt>u This wvill itro> bobbin tiread tirwiher with too0i of roerd threadl op though ohbro- no'd bhoth thriea ei!nd, drilllower into Lbrkc. f0osi in wor" Outline opening to be darned with running stitdies about ", Incn (6 mm, from edge for reinforce/ment. Sittdi across operIng, nmolvingj tabr.c at a slight angle to and fro needle. Run machine at modera'e speed antd guide fabric with a steady continuou•, movefet. Slow movement of fabric will produce a short stitch; more rapid movement lengthens the stitch. Fairly long stitches are best for kni' and tricot fabrics so that the darned area remains smooth and flexible. Short stitches are for cottons and linens as they upproxis'?te weave to the fabric. After completion of domiinc sure to normnal work, reset tres- sethtag 2. With Darning and Embroidery Fool Ihe s*.tturais o! th•e rh,o1•Tr, fo~r thrs type of hot<irgllan reý dsccriibod or! padq 74 59 The seam guide aids in attaining uniformity of seam width when extra control is needed. It provides for stitching to be spaced at any distance between V. to 1/4 inches (3 - 30 rmin from the edge of the fabric. It is secured to the bed of the machine in either of the threaded holes to the right of the slide Plate. Applications: Seams, blindstitdiing, straight stitching and decorative stitching. Straight Seams Stitch Pattern Selectors* AX SUtldWrdth Selector: 3 Stitch Length: 1-4mm depending on fabric Straight SUkt Throat Plate and Presser Foot, or General Purpose Throat Plate and Presser Foot Seam Guide fhbri s Place pins with points toward seam edges so they nip into fabric at stitching line. The hugcer] stratigh-t-sb Ict presser toot wjil ride, hfely over the pin points Guide fabric edues lightly against guide while stitching. Curved Seams and parallel t To guide seam stit din straight to the edge of the fabric, adjust and align the seam guide for proper seam width, Curv ed vanam requidre additionalI treatmentri in handling. A shorter stitch will provide greater elasti(ity and strength. Pin seam edges and basle if necessary. Hand basting can be eliminated on easy-to-handle Set the sWant uide at an angle so that the end closest to the needle acts as a guide. 60 60 i Blindstitch Hems Stitch Pattern Selectors: BO Stitch Width Selector: 2-5 Stitch Length: I--2 mm Basing Cuide I me Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot: General Purpose Seam Guide Ittilld t.'(filir hifid ewixill' r 'it oi"il ,0t" )r ý! ie i [t' prI It iK ellualt h':Iýt FI'11 l 'S. I ]Io oh do, I(1r10 t r,; Iit it i'111iiii ,i(e, 1n''b"li ,l t I t lii d mil ll'iq u~,,l- d) F0 • SI) i1 *l Mork turn and P esS herrM ii the ruqal wa; Place a bast.lq mgtlde tine npproximately ¼ linch 16 emir) frrnn the top of the heml rlIpe Place hem edge (to%,r tile iced of the nladil:nQc, turrning bill of fibrit to thei 1±. a of Pastinu and thus t toat•qt a sloft "tfn m]i he] the" Sot i P.t, d the fold ligainst ""'p ,"•> i trl, t F old Adjust s alii duldi over thi riqht toe <if the prlý'' 'o Urt il ;L rests n 'xt toi the, Soft fold t "'tIh if titt• .ut* r{ 01)l*•freS[l 1 i1lTlIJ/ > ii Top Stitching i" I "I 11'l iv ll q -,,• ¼ Wt'll l t rfIll',ill l 'l pdiC'"Ill or III'l igt I * 'vt r lotI ticU iwl p l, o I jil- ( tlhe rows 61 The zippr Foot This loot has been designed to facilitate the placing of stilching close to a raised edge. The hinged feature of this foot ensures even feeding over pins, heavy layers of fabric or cross seams. It is attached to the mactine in place of the regular presser foot and can be adjusted to either the right or left side of the needle. Straight or zig-zag stiltc settings can be used. Applications: Zipper insertion, corded seams, tubular welting and slip cover welting. Zipper Insertion Stitdh Pattern Selectors: AK Stich Width Selector: 3 Throat Plate: General Purpose or Straight Stitch Zipper Foot Many different types of zippers are available for everything you sew There are several satisfactory methods for insertion. Detailed sewing instructions are included in the zipper package. For any method used, the zipper foot enables you to form an even line of stitduing close to the zipper, When the zipper is to the right of the needle, ft totothe adjust the zipper zipper foot thergtleft of of the needle. needle. When the zipper is to the left of the needle, adjust the zipper foot to the right of the needle. 62 Secure the zipper fool to the presser bar as you would the regular presser foot. Adjustinent to the right or left of the needle is moude by loosening the thumb screw at the back of the foot. Check the position of the foot by lowering the needle into the side notch of the foot, making sure it clears the foot. Lods into position by tightening the thumb screw. Procedure for Inserting a Zipper Into a Skirt Machine baste the placket opening of the skirt and press this seam open. Attach the zipper foot to the machine and position it to the right of the needle. Open the zipper. Place the. ziponer face down on the seem allowance with the edge of the teeth at the seam line. Turn the back seam allowance away from the body of the skirt, Stitch the zipper tape to the seam allowance. Adjust the foot to the left of thie needle. Close the 7ipper arid turn it Lice up, Smooth back the seam allowance at the edge of the zipper. Top stitch it to the tape close to the folded edge. Turn zipper face down. Turn work to right side and tiin in place. Adjust the foot to the right of the needle. Stitch a>" It lower end of the zipt)er and up to the waist1!m•. Ron•ove bastingH ...... H.. . . 63 Corded Seams Stitch Pattern Selectors: AK Stitch Width Selector: 3 ia I cnnd coirnus n a v ari, t> If •,os anld ,lheo ctiktoed with ai himly u ovn fabi•c, noakO a woltion( that, I, ai (.ontO>I~tVe 50400 hfnish for .hildrens utlotihs, bloutv;, pillow stipst tinoo Mt eft-C, . 11.,s wtoq is prepared Ilk OdMilltO and Qhc11 IA~lhOd lilt) [h ti~leien. il scam Throat Plate: General Purpose or Straight Stitch Zipper Foot ('U{ I~t •!1 [) t-i~cr To make the welting: Cut 30 litasI vinlll] v[Iof >dl I•: o! Setw %hips* WOgcthle hi'mdnoilo the Ordsg rd s:ilr I, P's.t>h APS12 Qho',ssreptr' and adjust 1tppel toot t0 theleft oIf 1 or0 n"W010 •t Mt as'drfip ho L[ttower orio nt fHot SJtioil1],,eIn th} [ I• 'Ed, oRd01i] '4> • , f 1} l l'0 tu'''t Cs:ri ihi11h >I isjti toos~ bd~than k"l P!/ju lap s,,wing , a >+tti l o n( oh ih(Jhdv hnrl4 r appytn To stitch welting into seam: W1 It Si teoirg tIto, Wtohrvtg ::!" 5011 theý ?ippor loot1 1, ''411,ted to the Z o-d IIIti,e i e ,, that t'C bulk ot the uKti or wI'1Iull to the het AttKch the weltiirc to the ri•ht ostie oA a ingled Slam vdtqe, uoeftih the ,aovs!ile lengtith usedt t, InoKe thro W('t lung. Guide IIhe toot text to the I.bt cor d ht dnot crowd thace Over the attached We•ting the smeond seiani edge, and pun or bttste together. stitchineg (ise first Keep uprvd osta.ns a guode and poes sn the pseam under the eedle. Statch this time pushing ihe cod hard against thes foot, This method produces evenly joirnei seam edges and tightly set welting. v Curved scares are corded as easily as Straight sean'Is, ex-V cept that a shorter stitch length is used, Since the seamn allowance of the welting is bias, it is not difficult to shape it to the seam. 65 Tim Nii ¸ o Hwi n: T'ie n irt w hemmer forms and stitches a perfectly turned h om v ithoui basting or pressing. Applications: Fine hems, edging ruffles, hemming with lace, h min-nd seanis and lingerie finishes. Hemming Crease a double V/ inch (1imm ftoI along the edge of the fabric to I f( irro Ildce a. the fabric under the foot L,,v i ae iot and stitch the creased told for s <<era st':ties. Hold the thread ends with the l it ind and guide the raw fabric edge in rot, of the hemmer evenly into the st roll. Sew slowly, still hcldin the hem is well started. lifre, SUtcd Width Selector: 3 Throat Plate: Straight Stitch Nanow Hemmer e "s until Soft fabrics will enter tat scrti t, the foot down; firm, cri-4 Aite-i Is foot raised. Even feedin7 is cssq liial hemming. The same width of fat tio kept in the scroll of the [e Umil _t a A little practice will result in p rKc( med hems. 66 Stlt& Pattern Selectors: AK ;t with ith the o good vust be times. ly for- Hemmed Seams A hemmed seam is applied where a fine narrow seam is appropriate, Allow a scant t/4 inch (8 Ilml) sealn allowance. With both sides of fabric together, place upper layer approx. 'Is inch (4 iamm to left of lower layer Insert two fabric edges into hommer and proceed as for plain hem. Decorative Hems If you use the henmmer foot and choose a zig-zag Stitch pattern, you can turn and decorate a narrow hem in a single operation. This time-saving finish is especially suited to ruffle edges, aprons and lingerie finishes. Stitch Pattern Selectors: Any basic pattern Stitch Width Selector: 2-5 Throat Plate: General Purpose Narrow Hemmer Follow same steps as for plain hems. Hemming with Lace Stitch Pattern Selectors: DL Stitch Wldth Selectcr: 3 Throat Plate: General Purpose Narrow Hemmer Lace Applied Over Hem Fold and start the hem in the usual way. Starting about I inch (25 mm) down from the end of the lace, place the salvage under the needle and lower needle to hold lace firmly. Raise the foot slightly and slip the lace under the back portion of the foot, without disturbing the position of the fabric. Stitch with the rght slowly, guiding the fabrr hand, the lace with the le t, Take care not to stretch the lace. Z Lace Applied Under Hem When using lace underneath the fold of a hem, the procedure is th same as when making a hemmed seam. Slip the lace in from the left as you would the second piece of fabric. This method is used where a neat finish is desired on both sides of material. 67 Bin der b ab = Scroll for unfolded binding = Slot for folded bias tape c = Adjusting lug d = Guide pins a Th> hinder is used to applyl contnoercial htndtinq ai well Ussri-flic h~os h,.an unfinished edge, The, colorful trimnuon is attractive 'stun appii>d to duildlrens tlothes. apr'ons, cult•ins etc. It is d practital hrnish for scam edges,, 'ha t ra wid n tor indkinu bhind se.mS Straight stitcl, plmai zztg-vc or declorati'v zltzag s ttings con he used. Stitch Pattern Selectors: Any settings Cmo binding diagonally to form a long point Commercial 1,nding is inserted ftonm the right into the slot for folded bia, tape of the Stitch Width Selector: 2-5 scroll Unfolded bias Wo/s indi f24 mn)mwide Throat Foot Plate: General Purpose BTnder 68 is inserted intoendthe binding at the of opentng the scroll.for unfolded I OIT, o a it, , -, of i hV S ,iti"1 lnsdd 1 hdI'1 5, 't tnam Curves .<> n d lh idt Siro t I.,d:II -it, j' iý nw ak< 'n '1!: a"trio<roll trl e(" nl•)• , I;-I\ >, K " Iw II!h j h ý1ý* 1 ¶1r i o As n ita> dol ,p 1,"! r•, K,( en (dn'.'u Oulsid w 1w a q t! .f e :t h f4 Preser Foot For Overedged Seams (Stretch Stitch) The overedged seam is particularly appropriate for use in Thread Guide construction of garments made of knit stretch or elasticized fabric. When using the spec al disc No. 22 together which the overedged presser foot, seams that stretch with the labric can be joined and finished in one operation. Make a test sample first to determine the Stitch Pattern Selectors. C - Special ony Stitch Width Selector 5cate Stitch Length: Up to IS ra Presser Foot Pressure. Light, 2-3 Special Disc: No. 22 Throat Plate: General Purpose Presser Foot for Ove edged Seams 70 suitability of an overedged seam in the construction of your garment. Be sure to duplithe gra n of your garment in your test. Adjust stitch length, pressure and thread tension accordingly. Cut and fit garment in the regular way, using an approx. '/, inch (15 mm) seam allowance. Baste fitted seamn line, Trim seam edges evenly to 'It inch (6 mm) from seam line basting. Place trimmed seam under the presser foot so that the bulk of the work falls to the left and the seam edge to the right under the presser foot thread guide (see illustration in left top corner). Stitch, guiding fabric up to the inside edge of the thread guide so that the straight stitches fall on the seam line and the zig-zag stitches over the seam edge, The Ruffier b Otadw ornt offers a simple aad Effe-ti.e zai .I rla", gathered ano pl• ted ruffle ftPil4s mnil Li made separately or ;i~dd a!)d PDYird at I'esame time. The ruffier I; a!adiledi to ite mahdirie in place of th, regular Pre.rmser foot a,"d is used with a stlairqlt stit,7T1 ad d Inrg ot Orie Tlie Yuffl.nr blade and the sepflrair blade ar( of blue stdel and hold the m.e itl to be ptl~hend hetween them. The rulf.ing b ad& f)r;ns he gathers or pleats by carrylng the fab ic to tif needle according to lip, spacini and fullness r which the ruttler Is .e!tuste . The spa re tr guide is slotted to tlaide sea-p edqes evenly and to separate the Tuffle strip Irom tht material to which the *Jlf!e is at tadicd. @ h g a b c d e i g h f = = = = = Prtsser Biar Seat Arm Fork Adjusting Lever Adjus'ing Finger Adjusaro. Screw Separitor Guide Ruffling Elade = Separator Blade To Attach The Ruffler Raise needle to its hiighest point. Attach ruffler to machine n place of regular presser foot. locating ruffler on presser bar w th fork arm over need e Clamp screw. Securely tighten both presser bar and needle clamp screws To Adjust The Ruffler I. The adjusting lever sets the tffter for gathers or pleat The number I space setting is for gathers and p aces fullness at every stitch, Numbers 6 and 12 are space settings for pleats, so ciig them 6 or 12 stitches apart The s a is for straight stitching and is used gathers or pleats. who.r grouping Sh11& Pattern Selectors: AK Stltch Width Selector: 3 Throat Plate: Straight Stich Ruffler 2. The adjusting finger is used only for pleating and affects the width of the pleat. It is thrown out of action by turning it out of con act with the adjusting screw. 3. The adjusting screw regulates the fullness of gathers or pleats. When turned inward to its limit with the adjusting finger in p ace, the attachment is set for its deepest pleat. When turned outward to its limit, with the adjusting finger out of action, the ruffler gives only a hint of fullness. 71 Gathering ,, a Is u qle[II e r ,n ( d I;oIi di~ sltoof finqer I04 I! I of"I 1 i i I45 I11' iOkm oft flL .I I Ir lltO , ill Ioid[ . il'u . T S't sh~~, andIi!{ ,ls , leloph iot*Wd)ht tý SIt riffle fuInn s [t I OWi Si I 4 WOt 4'6614 00i rltli ";ilt)"( c a r iuv!ri tu I l:1 d4 ) ]1 ;IV. I 0ua] ,tnii ol full. I t I*,1no'> 10I hs tiH rttaching Frill- stitch trio' it> ir v ik e, lruffte tulle (l, .IP!1 '55S sRigh Ii a fiofer hoot to tfiacihtv ,ie hil ltild i [ t Rutting Matrialt - >t, * Attaching Frills Irl, 'rip ;t , 1,44 nil a umhtgial Material =Gairravat 72 oldo Itun il(p4 to bie rqntlied~ iel woen blue h> (hf< igh the4 In4-1 lo irisltr qulej 14444 >le[( -Ind PII (oAmoi II toIc<½'eerserPreepecl as lior plain4 galt> ring Right sides1 of fnnri<- are placed ti fle'tIe i IPill to thne i'> 'to whewn Ifh ear ;4,1' Pleating YKI N for u n plemt 5ulc ad~ (I 54 sA1 hhf St aO 44 ho r~fI , ! m. the' fleas> ,-pm," 0- pn sea h 04 to c-om aprl trt), <'Hwr 6 mo 12 ýA4at 1 of~ Lnov! And tA mnýrutt, 54mtOy tinward ft 4 its> Ihteov m NO 4' '1tO ~p N¾)m !Idd piatcs tHie , Ikl(:f~ Arah >,,ft4 iinfl p-W o>.ur- a >r A k te >4V'tqjs MA 'oft u( plemts !he <r'>sq'tpy iroo Note (.nfoed tab,>>» Wiitch, N adite ar Who, q20d su,rl A doew swat) Iis to th~e IrUfff*r plado lakro; lq rxt Croup Pleadinq thoft alio6 Pt, 144f' o,-ow qmp4 her of sthrfies Id o ptn <fll [mu6 "1 I0 :i,, P-m dIs' ty roIofl sK4chir-o kt alo 73 Darning and Embroidery Foot 'Thi, )(1r. .i(..,. Is i ait] t') all who cid,ire pe fecto' i t, corniaq am ut *1 roids- wor..k, The fo~ot firmly i-ni1( enters anid rises from lh~e *'nri k r- mad hoc faiici'u wbilc uL' itk -mhr ttle I.ne of design to Iet followedi Stitch Pattern Selectors: AY SUtit Width Selector: 3 Stitch Length: Less than I mim Feed Cover Plate Daining and Embroidery Foot -it ragge I edges from area ao ie ddrned. "Jo i•ection can be 'ixed into hoo)lp. tilt ! s a t absolutely necessaly, 'It li fle d over plate liul cat ne beod in paf, :4 regular thloat plate. d Irning and eatbroidery foit on t ps1 "t r .Jlb i~ li~ltng finger over n'erlle ciaimp r r at ice lurther steps of this sef mi opciatior .i e thl satel(, as fll (fda111rninj tiln geterA iirpot se presser toot free to page 59) UIln adhine at. moderate speeon ntd gutide? bri w il ti a steady d Continuous tlovullwttt, *imw movement ot tabric will prodnee i a hort stitch; more rapid rmovemient length(en s *we stitch. Fairly long stitdces are best for knit and trit Fabrics; ' short stitches are best for cottons: !ad linens as they approximate to the weave ffabric. 74 Free Motion Work Wth Embroidery Hoop Stitch Pattern Selectors: DL Stitch Width Selector: 2-5 Sttch Length: Fine (less than I ram) Feed Cover Plate Presser Foot: None Script monograms and embroidery can be effectively accomplished with the zig-zag stitch when the tree motion principle is employed. A test sample should always be made before proceeding with the actual woik to determine stitch setlting and spacing. Some fabrics may require addition of an underlay of crisp lawn and organdie. hand wheel toward you and drew bobbin thread up through fabric. Hold both thread ends and start stitching. Move hoop slowly, following outline of design. Maintain an even rate of speed so that stitches are uniformly ipaced. Slow movement of hoop reoduces a close satin stitch; more rapid movement lengthens the stitch and resuets in an open effect. Trace or mark design on right side of fabric. Place work in embroidery hoop large enough to encompass entire design. Be sure fabric is hold taut. Position work under needle and lower presser bar to engage tension. Turn Free motion work can also be done with the darning and embroidery foot. This foot is particularly suited for stitching smooth heavy fabrics since it assists in controlling the stitch as well as in a, proper guiding of the fabric. 75 v Applications of t Cylinder Bed Feature 76 76 7577 V , / ----- - -- - -- - -- - Casng For~four Sowing Machine Your sewing machine is a fine yet sturdy precision instrument and it will serve you perfectly for miany years if you take a few simple steps to keep it in good working condition. How often you will need to clean, oil and lubricate the machine will depend on how often you use it and where you keep it. The following general guidelines aSSUMe that YOU will be sewing two or three trios a week. But if you use the mactine continuously, clean and oil it daily, Or, if you keep Every Week Or So - with a soft cloth, clean: a, Tension discs b. Take-up lever and *hreac guides c. Presser bar and neec.!1Ž bar d. Bobbin case (for instructions on removal, see page 81) Mactine surface If necessary, dampen the cloth to clean the mactine surface. Do nat use detergents. -d f With the lint brush that comes with your mactine, clean: e. Feed dog I. Bearing surface for throat plate rq Rotating hook (area uinder throat plate and slide plate) After each cleanuill aiply a drop (but no more, than a droo) of SINGER* oil to the hook raceway (gi, Thec Pew a line of stitchting on a scrcap of mate ial to remove excessive oil To Remove And Replace Bobbin Case To clean hook raceway, remove bobbin case as follows: Open slide plate nd remove bobbin and throat plate. Unlock bobbin caso by liftitig and pulling holder to right as shown. Remove bobbin case from machine. Remove all lint, fluff, loose thread ends or any other foreign matter by means of lint brush. Replace bobbin case so that groove under tension spring fits on hook raceway and fork of bobbin case straddles positioning finger 4 A. 8 % N Push bobbin case holder to left as shown> un,il it snaps uown into lock position. Replace bobbin am. throat plate and close slide plate. 4 4 •jl'-I 9• it *1 62 • ,.•,F . i• .• • i i " Every Few Months - Clean and ol the machine thoroughly, Use SINGER oils and SINGER lubricants only, which are availalhe for purchase at your SINGER SEWING CENTRE Both are e-xtra quality products, especially prepared for sewing machines * Clean And Oil Area Behind Face Plate Clean and apply a drop of SINGER oil to each place shown You will find this easier to do if you remove the top cover first * Also, apply a drop of oil to the hook raceway. -over (and cylider cover), The motor requires no lubrication. Oiling of the motor can result in its burning out. After oiling sew line ecstsrfungon a scrap of material to remove excess oil. If the machine is to be stored away for an indefinite period of time. a thorough brushcleaning to remove all traces of lint and fluff, followed by swabbing of all exposed parts with a lint free brush saturated with SINGER oil, is necessary to protect against rust, " Clean And Oil Top Of Machine All spats to be oiled are shown in the illustration. Do not oil gears, but apply a small amount of SINGER lubricant to them as indicated * Clean And Oil Bottom O Machine 8,f(.r to illustration on page 841, Tilt machine back and remove screw B, being careful not to lose washer, and remove bottom cover from underside of machine. In case of class 670 machine, also remove screw C and cylinder cover Clean and oil each of the places indicated. Gears are to be lubricated only. Replace bottom To Remove And Replace Top Cover Move take-up lever to ifs lowest point ReBen hand Move sarew A n liftsrigt move screwlA and liftright hand end of cover slightly and slide toward leftand off the mnachine as shown on illustration below. Replace cover by positioning it on top of mahine with a slight overhang on the left sidt, slide cover to the right unfil it locks r "iaute Replace and tighten screw A. A 83 Class 650 Ma&in., Class 670 Wiaddso 84D Remember to " Position needle out of fabric when making stitch width and stitch pattern adjustments. " Clean your machine periodically, especially the bobbin case and hook raceway areas, * Use your Instruction Book. It was written to explain the most efficient way to operate and use your versatile SINGER sewing machine. Sewing Difficulties? Keep your machine in good working condition by following the easy at-home-care steps outlined in this Instruction Book, and it will serve you perfectly for many years. The non-observance of some details may lead to thread breakages. In such a case check: " Is the machine properly threaded? * Is the spool positioned correctly? Is it securely tightened by the correct thread lead-off so thnt the thread can unwind freely from the spooiW " Is a Catalmogwt (5IXl needle correctly inserted and securely tightened in the needle clamp (with the long groove to. ward you)? * Is the needle free of damages? *Is the thread suitable for the size of the needle? " Is the needle-thread tension too tight? * Is the thread flee from knots? " Is Ihe bobbin-case and hook raceway areoa frt of lint and loose !tread ends? 85 Key Word Index Cylinlder IP>. Aupphiirofs IUitS briln.,n Dt . 4,49 Dv or a Iyve -f Applihqmu i t11t11 I A . . . I 'd Plsd[ I[ DtVC 01dlit %C Stit (Jd[I TIt.,s ',mdk aned i11 I r 53 E;n t1 74nh EinnbtnnOn Se,, inq 1in FI > n,,, \\ rk [G (~•, d ut IO u 74 I n -jlibiTlhd, , 73 v %\oik ýt Pla4 h]{. \ oiDk i%fll L',l \I$1( M Ii,ilon ; m !I dot~r t( it \ln nreie 1 hut , I i andl S Trv i i lie h< Vw l no I it: 666 %! i [ 54 I fin6 11111 II 56 0 . . . 00 ,, a - l! 1 I) lýtl ý io 6th t BI 1 0 Z'I:P~al '9 iCl F .1 14' ,11 15L:ciIo Page Presser Foot for Overedged Seam. (Stretch Stitih . Presser Foot Pressure Settings and Adjustments .. Principal Parts of Machine 70 .. 15 4, 5 27 Regulating the Thread Tensions Removal and Replacement of Light Bulb .,. . . . . . . . . 7 Needle ... . 16 Presser Foot . 14 33 . Special Disc . . . . . . 14 Throat Plate Reverse Stitching 12 ..... Ruffler Satin Stitching Tension Adjustment Stitch Length Adjustment Scalloping Seams Corded Seams .... Curved Serms Decorative Stitwding Flat Felled Seams .. .. Litngerie Seams Overedgled Seams . .. 71 .. 31 3.. 57 .. . 64 60 32 . . . . 5.. 70 Practical Stitching . . . .32 Seaming Sheers .. . ... . 51 Seams in Knit Fabrics .. . 55 Straight Seams .... ... 22. 60 Zig-Zag Stitching .... 29 Seam Finishes 55 Decorative Itlems .,... 67 HIemmed Seams ... 66 -lemming with Lace . . .. 67 Scam Guide 60 Settings Needle Position .. 22, 30 Needle Thread Tension ..... 15, 27 Presser Foot Pressure . ...... 15 Stitch Length ... . 12 Stitch Pattern. .... 10 Stitch Width It Sewing of Buttons 53 Cord .. .. 52 Elastic .. 58 52 6 62 .. c ltulties... 85 Sewing Light, Removal and Replacement of Light Bulb . Special Purpose Foot Spool I folder . . . . . . . Stitch Length Regul,or Stitnh Pattern Selectors Stitch Width Selector Straight Stitching Equipment Setting .. Stitch Length Sewing a Seam ... With Two Needles Straight Sti ch Presser Foot Stretch Stitch ..... Threading 7 . 46 . 17 12 t0 . . I1 22 . 22 . 12 24 . 36 13, 22 . ... 70 .. BobbinC Sin N wo Needles ... .... Pae Lace Lace Tape Zipper S,.ing D:f pe 20 . .. . W th Built-in Needfle Threadet . Treadle Drive.. .... ... Connection of Sewing Light .. . Replacement of Belt ... Selective Motor and Treadle Driv. Throat Plates . Removal and Replacement .. . Two Needles Basic Pattern Stitching .. ,. Insertion . ..... .. .. Straight Stitching ..... . Threading .... Upper Threading . Welting ..... . Zig-Zag Stitching Adjusting Stitch Length ... .. Adjusting Stitch Width .. .. Equipment . Settings .... With Two Needles Zipper Foot . . . . . . Zipper Insertion ... . .. . . 36 36 21 8 9 9 9 13 14 4. 37 36 37 36 20 64 I1 30 29 30 37 62 62 87