Quaderni d`italianistica : revue officielle de la Société canadienne
Transcript
Quaderni d`italianistica : revue officielle de la Société canadienne
IMAGES OF CANADIAN CITIES IN ITALY: THEN AND NOW MATTEO Summary: This article SANFILIPPO examines the writings of Itahan travellers in Canada and discusses how they affected and affect the images of Canadian cities in Italian culture. The article begins by looking at recent writings by one famous Italian author, Pier Vittorio Tondelli, and then moves back examine to on Canada. In this his predecessors in the Italian literary manner, the article tries to see to sketch a genealogy of Italian descriptions of whether Canadian production it is possible cities. Travel narratives In the 1 980s, cultural historian Paul Fussell suggested that travel narratives might become a first, but a of research field field that finally —one might be that would be rewarding difficult to (Fussel, — — and at 1980 and 1987).' Since then, travel literature has been approached from a number of per- gender, nationalism, imperialism, orientalism, exoticism, and spectives so forth map the bibliography on the subject has grown at a steady pace.- Very often, cultural historians focus on British or American, French or Spanish travellers because their writings fit the latter categories, and the only exception has been the search for a woman's point of view (Tinling, More 1993; Siegel, 2004). non-European To recent approaches have proposed analysis of travel writing,^ suggesting that travel literature may present lighten the apparatus, short bibliographical references will henceforth be given in parentheses in the Gabriele Scardellato, Eisenbichler who body of the Richard article. Ambrosini, A owed to Konrad paper and made helpful debt of gratitude Olga Pugliese, kindly read an earlier version of this is and suggestions. See the specialised journal Studies in Travel Writing (1997-), and: Pratt, 1992; Brothers and Gergits, 1997-1999; Holland, 2000; Schweizer, 2001; Hulme and Young, 2002; Burdett and Duncan, 2002; Speake, 2003; Mancali, 2006. ^Khair, 2006. too far, looking To some extent, however, we could argue that the research has leaving us to confront a gigantic "mise en abyme", in which at others that are Quaderni looking d'italianistica. at others .... Volume XXVIII, No. 1, 2007, 33 gone someone is Matteo Sanfilippo an even wider range of perspectives than expected, and that by studying them we might unearth The different views of the "other." expands the hst of the nationahties of present study above by travel writers presented who including Italians; more specifically, Italian travellers of different types who commented, now "a lucrative and journeyed to Canada and Travel writing Amazon.com is says (January incredible 2007) in the ad on the listed in its section in particular, number of texts by and about for is we overwhelmed by an but we are also facon the web. At and then analyze skip the introduction and concentrate on the without a will consider critical of I one cannot synthesize one can only case study. In this instance, only the writing of Italian travellers to Canada, introduction, and this limited goal, i.e. a case study. Rather, will discuss I on the images of Canadian their literature this unable to deal with the subject in only 20 pages and a the critical discussion I life. travel writers, standard academic strategy cannot be pursued; therefore, urban one of the over 9,300 books are ing an extremely rich production of travel writing point, a scholar its enjoyable writer's market" as Not only topic. on will start only the influence of cities in Italian culture. Because with recent writings by a famous Italian author and then search backward for his precedessors in previous Italian literary production on Canada. In this a genealogy of Italian descriptions of Pier Vittorio Tondelli and Quebec way, it Canadian to sketch cities. City In 1987, Pier Vittorio Tondelli (1955-1991), post-modern might be possible one of the most important Quebec City Italian writers, travelled to for a conference on Jack Kerouac (Tondelli, 1990). His contribution to the subsequent confer- ence proceedings is is a standard essay on Kerouac's influence, but even if this of limited academic importance, Tondelli's journey to Quebec City was not a failure: during his Then, once back in Italy, trip the writer elaborated he produced two years later, impressions and worked them ference and, In the a couple of short assembled his notes, work described (and a on the con- articles so he was out of place is) is his the consequence of a double Quebec to the lost his roots and became and out of touch wherever he United no longer looking only at — 34 — this a cultural drop-out, lived. Starting observation, Tondelli writes mainly about never being at Therefore, he and double marginalization (Tondelli, 1987). Because of double migration, Kerouac this articles his into his last novel. migration (from Europe to Quebec, and from and of ideas for his work. short piece Tondelli produced, he underlined the observa- first tion that Kerouac's States) new Kerouac and from home. at the conference. Images of Canadian Cities Rather, he is is concerned with own his in Italy: Then and Now presence in Quebec City, a place that not only foreign to him but also considerably different from anything he had expected before leaving Tondelli writes that according to any Italy. Quebec City is in Canada, but because of his physical presence there he realizes that Quebec City is not a Canadian settlement. To illustrate his point, he tells Italian readers how one barman categorically refused to serve him a Canadian beer, claiming that nobody in Quebec City drinks Italian atlas Canadian beer. This is Quebec City is not is Quebec City what City is a (North) actually a a regular but lie, (i.e. it English-speaking) Canadian for the Italian writer? American locale. helps Tondelli demonstrate that The first answer city. that is But Quebec Before the conference, the writer goes Grand Dérangement. The session is led by a Californian bluesman, Mark Murphy, who recites a few lines from On the Road as a poetic mantra during his performance. Quebec City is not Canada, and Quebec is not a province of the United States, but there is something that links Quebec to the United States and Quebec City to to a jam session at the club Le California. The second short piece begins in a coffee bar — is only to public spaces (Tondelli, fast of coffee, cisely on sausages, It to be linked the writer enjoys his break- which he considers then claims that Quebec City mixed up and when he America and particularly in factual errors. Canadian experience seems is "in America, to be very more pre- the Atlantic Coast of Canada, in Quebec". His geography seems to be badly ticular toast, eggs He "American". — 1993) — where richer Tondelli's in a few lines later even his history is wrong, in par- explains that the French started the colonization of Canada, and were then followed by the British the continent "three hundred years ago". Calculating back ference date of October 1987, this Conquest occurred who conquered means from the con- that for Tondelli the British in 1687! After twisting around any normal conception of Canadian geography and history, Tondelli presents a perfectly safe stereotype for travellers in According to him, Quebec City Canada: nature vs. European he mentions the narrowness of the walls locale: and even Frontenac!). civilization. Still, it is is a European Disneyland (maybe he not a true castle?) in the wilderness, but a mild wilderness, a wilderness have also an appropriate if is a town Château realized that the middle of the American tamed and fairyland. The Kerouac Conference was held from falling in the old a castle (probably a mistaken reference to the Château Frontenac and streets, 1 to beautified, a 4 October, so we standard description of maple leaves reddening autumn. — 35 — Matteo At point this stereotypes, sensing the danger of compiUng too tiie writer, as if jumps Sanfilippo many to another subject: the guided tour he took to the places where the Kerouac family United lived before leaving for the States. Once again, Tondelli shows his shaky knowledge of Quebec's geography: he Cap claims that he visited but he City, Saint-Ignace, was on a "Greyhound that he which lies when bus while, style" Montreal to Quebec City, he took a Voyageur bus: this is travelling it is is not very appealing: the day The buildings in sight and everything Tondelli's last novel is a sad and moving Thomas, his is much there are no colonial on Quebec better than his articles who is forced to accept the The working-through of the story about Leo, and friend lover.5 Quebec time) that goes from Montreal to on Kerouac we descrip- grey and is new. is bereavement carried Leo on a bus ("Greyhound the conference rainy, the river New France because imagine living in difficult to is from a seemingly irrel- evant statement that will acquire greater significance below. tion of the tour Quebec south-east of he travelled north-east.^ At the same time he adds states that already style", City. Leo City: it death of fictional Tondelli specifies this is registered to attend know about and he has travelled by plane from Milan to Montreal. In the bus, the fictional "I" looks out at the Olympic village, the great boulevards, the bridges finally the "great from flight Italy North-American road for another four hours. Leo sky." and he knows that is to reach The bus is lazily from Greece to new observing his fellow passengers Italy. Maybe, he sense to his days: A few days retells his later, it might link the Leo goes to story about the jazz club the last page of Kerouac's down and I sit skies over New lievable thinks, this On huge bulge over to darkness the tired when he remembers Canadian journey "So in a trip will give a Now Tondelli America when the sun goes river pier that is watching the long, long raw land that West Coast, and to the be on the and the Californian bluesman intoning all But Tondelli's reminiscence here narrator compares his this half Le Grand Dérangement. the Road: and sense will fiiture to the past. on the old broken-down Jersey and and dark; but from time time he sees city-lights blazing along the road. In traveller St Lawrence, Quebec City he silent is on the very tired after his eight-hour more all one unbe- that road going, ...". articulated own "dérangement" with rolls in and the Kerouac's. fist-person Leo thinks that people attending the conference are Kerouac's truest friends because they want to thank him for how he has affected them, for having given See Francis Catalanes footnote at p. 20 of his translation of Oltre ^Tondelli, 1989, pp. 205-216. — 36 — them il fiume, a 1995. Images of Canadian Cities Walking alone taste for poetry. he Now Then and Leo understands that after the conference, "derange" like Kerouac because his writing has insulated is normal people. cisely what He own realizes also that his him him from writing, like Kerouac's, pre- is Then he goes pub Saint-Alexandre on rue Saint-Jean. He drinks beer (Quebec understands that life goes on and feels a hint of desire for a young to the beer), will give man, something the in Italy: that he the chance to be read by everybody. had not experienced since page of the novel Leo last is his partner's illness. In in a small turbo-prop airplane flying to Montreal. His stay in Quebec City has ended and in a few hours he will be in now knows, he Milan where, he epiphany Leo's (and Tondelli's) before dealing with of On the Road. Quebec City in us consult the quotation let it, will start to live again. As Tondelli had done very interesting but, is from the conference, Leo also abbreviated the quotation that, in So in America when the sun goes down and river pier watching the long, long raw land that Coast, and ty all that road going, land where they you know that I I skies over sit all God is on the old broken-down New Jersey and sense all the children Pooh Bear? the evening shedding her sparkler dims on the prairie, must be crying stars'll star which in the be out, and don't must be drooping and is just before the ing of complete night that blesses the earth, darkens peaks and folds the final shore that West to the the people dreaming in the immensi- know by now children cry, and tonight the let about the entirety, runs: its one unbelievable huge bulge over rolls in of it, and in Iowa final sentences in his previous short article com- cups the all rivers, and nobody, nobody knows what's in, going to happen to anybody besides the forlorn rags of growing old, think of we At tor is York (that this back to Dean never found, moment in New Denver and is, Moriarry, I think of Dean Moriarty. (Kerouac, On the Road) in the text, Sal Paradise, Kerouac's first-person narra- Jersey to and is remembering San Francisco. He is his long travels from also thinking ill. left when New of Dean Moriarty the writer's friend Neil Cassady). Moriarty/Cassady Mexico with Paradise/ Kerouac, but he became I even think of Old Dean Moriarty the father I the went to narrator/writer This truncated quotation, therefore, leaves us with a feeling of ambiguity. Leo could be hinting that, like Sal, he should no longer depend on his friend; or Thomas as could now Sal he could only be stressing that he has been abandoned by was abandoned by Dean; or could he be saying only think of Thomas without any "on the old broken-down Jersey", and he is river pier anguish? Actually Sal watching the long, long is that he sitting skies over New looking West (Iowa and the West Coast), while Leo is drinking beer in Quebec City and looking East (Milan). Regardless, both — 37 — Matteo first-person narrators are sitting on the East Coast, Tondelli's geograpliical notion of coast on the way a step is Quebec as to California or according to being the Atlantic coast of The New Jersey east Mexico, while the Quebec east a trait-d'union between North America and Europe. In the two is Greyhound buses novels. North America, crisscross the wilderness, but whether they are going losing themselves in West or East they back to Europe. The Greyhound-style (but travelling is, at least their respective East Coasts are different. Canada, but coast Sanfilippo it was are always a Voyager, that Canadian and not an American) bus that takes Leo from Montreal a Quebec City ness is passes through many small towns, but to on the road the dark- defeated by "city lights", while in the night imagined by Kerouac "the stars'U be out". According to Tondelli, therefore, Quebec to Europe, even if not Europe. In it is is there fact, an urban country, linked is a discussion about beer Quebec "grosses bières" are but Quebec City people drink that could help us understand this connection: from the refined European ones, different European America beers. Quebec America tion of Americans an urban society that longs for Europe, while a is says only that modern is of Kerouac's fact, he does not write about Canada, he not (English) Canada, but he never provides a def- of English Canada. in his idea version of Turner's Frontier Thesis. But what about of Canada? In Quebec Leonard Cohen, one and a very stereotypical is his interpretation inition is a rural country that looks West. Clearly, Tondelli's interpreta- is Among his writings there which he does not even mention is a short piece that the singer English-speaking poet from Montreal (Tondelli, 1988). Does this is on an mean Canada is a kind of minor America? I do not know, and maybe he never wondered about the essence of English Canada: that for Tondelli English it may be that it simply did not exist for him. Since the 1980s Italian writers and poets seem to have had a lot to do with their colleagues from Quebec. As noted. Tondelli was invited to participate in the ning Kerouac conference. Valerio Magrelli, the Italian poet, has Catalano and has travelled to Quebec. and in particular duction. '^' A capitale cities and la 38 — Francis about his trip, Montreal culture, therefore, are cellulose", p. 27). win- critic industrial paper proin on contemporary 2000 and 2005 ("De notre envoyé mondiale de its have been Italian poets to prepare a dossier (Catalano, 2005). Quebec's "Magrelli, He even wrote a poem about the city of Sherbrooke and group of younger where they helped Feltrinelli-prize been translated by Montreal poet and recently, Italian known spécial à Trois-Rivières, poetry to Italian Québec, Images of Canadian Cities guidebooks and writers, while in Italian Then and in Italy: Now of many in the travel section Italian newspapers one can find items about Quebec City and Montreal. But are Canadian (English) cities unknown to Italian travellers? necessary to compile a dossier starting with the At this point it is first Italian visitors. Early Italian travellers (from the eighteenth century to 1920) Risorgimento, exiles a) The few Italians and priests: a political look who visited seamen who have not first left Italian descriptions America that appeared New at Canadian France were missionaries, soldiers, or any descriptions of colonial settlements.^ The of Canadian afiier the are in cities books about North American Revolution. Luigi Castiglioni (1785-1787) and Paolo Andreani (1790) travelled Washington and to cities New also visited New to York and Orleans, Halifax and Montreal in order understand what had happened in North America.*^ While their com- ments are not very profound, they set the guidelines for subsequent reportage about Canada. According to Andreani, Halifax and many of its houses are very elegant, but the small is quite beautiful, town is economical- weak and too dependent on Boston;'' Luigi Castiglioni describes Montreal as an important town with interesting buildings (in particular the Sulpitian church), but he added that after the Conquest the town walls ly are falling Italian down and the city seems very melancholic. '^ Therefore, the Canada was too French Canada was in ruin reader was given the impression that English dependent on the United States and that because of the British victory in the Seven Years' War. The Era of travels to the French Revolution temporarily put an end to Italian North America. 1820. In 1822-1823, Italian travellers would next Giacomo Costantino cross the ocean after Beltrami, a political exile, searched for the source of the Mississippi and described the Native, Métis, and British villages in the West, while Alfredo Dupuoy, a merchant from Leghorn, travelled to the West to study the Canadian fur trade." Both ^Del Negro, 1979, 1983 and 1985; Sanfilippo and Pizzorusso, 2004, chapt. ^Pace, 1983; Dicorato, 2000; Marino and Trio, III. 2006. ^Andreani, 1994, pp. 47-50. ^^Castiglioni, 2000, pp. 117-136. ^ ^Beltrami, 1965, pp. 47-48, 139-159. French: Beltrami, 1824. Beltrami (1828), 2005. Now The first the reprint of the Dupouy's manuscript Mamiani], 1827; cf Pizzorusso, 1995. — 39 — version of this first is memoir was English edition edited in is in available: T.M. [Terenzio Matteo Sanfilippo were interested mainly in Native travellers the Eastern American them, however, other Frontier. After and they did not societies, saw the Canadian thus, they cities: Prairies as part travellers visit of the toured North America and visited the two Canadas and the United States. For them, Canada meant Lower Canada and very often Lower Canada meant only Montreal. Thereft)re, they thought that only French-speaking colonists were Canadians. Nevertheless, does not this mean that they appreciated French Canada. For example, in October 1825, Carlo Vidua came to Montreal ftillowing a suggestion made to him by the Sulpitian Superior in New York. He undertook North American tour his to escape the bleakness is surprised to realize that the colony is still living as if in the reign of Louis XIV, that feudal laws are not abol- ished, and that the ancien régime of the Restoration in Europe. Vidua In 1 CsithoVic clergy is New York. 837, Federico Confalonieri was exiled to arrived he travelled to New dominant. 12 Orleans and from As soon as he there he proceeded to Upper and Lower Canada, stopping no difference in his descriptions settlements: they are too modern and too Canadian between American and Buffalo and Niagara Falls and then to in Toronto and Montreal. There un-European.'-'' 1836 and States Another exile, in the following and Canada (Arese, is Francesco Arese, arrived in two New York in around both the United years travelled He 1837 and 2001). visited Toronto and Kingston, which he did not appreciate because they were bad copies of cities in the United he liked Montreal's downtown. Canada poor and sad, because of the British States, Nonetheless, he judged Lower but occupation, and he did not like the Catholic clergy and He was French Canadians. still in Montreal the British attitude: he did not understand in (in fact, for the influence on 1837 and was puzzled by why Great Britain wanted to control such an unimportant colony. Finally, he which he admired its went view but disliked because it to Quebec City, was dirty and dark he complained about the shortage of street-lights). In 1841 Carlo Antonio Gallenga, a third exile, decided to teach Italian and French literature in King's College in Windsor, Nova Scotia, but he could not stand the weather. Moreover, he was disappointed by both the college: "Windsor was something between a town and a vil"The College was merely a divinity school."'^ He could not teach that was because of the lack of books and students ("Nothing to do city and the lage"; — l^Vidua, 1834, pp. 105-151. ^^Gallavresi, 1913, pp. 710-716, 723-730, 844-849. 1 "^Gallenga, 1884, II, pp. 109-135. Cf Cerutti, 1973. — 40 — Images of Canadian Cities death to me") and he was in Italy: Then and with Judge left to travel creator of Sam Slick, the "yankee clockmaker". as he enjoyed his summer prospect of returning to 1850s, a the Holy United exiles and did not new and different See. In 1853, States, for permission to leave. Canada, then, were Italian travellers in meddling like clerical in political group of Italians came to Gaetano Bedini, internonce where he was and was forced bitterly challenged to flee to Canada. ^ 5 try for La Quebec City, Montreal, Saint-Hyacinthe, article stresses the co-existence It to Brazil, by He wrote life. In the Canada representing Italian a portrait went to the and German of this coun- the Jesuit journal, in which he describes Civiltà Cattolica, in particular in Montreal. Haliburton, the enjoyed these rides just vacation in Halifax, but he shuddered at the Windsor and asked This second generation of political exiles Thomas He Now and Bytown (Bedini, 1853). The of different national and immigrant groups, development of Canadian also exalts the rapid Bytown. In the decades and following Holy See diplomats enquired about the relationship between immigrant groups and local societies and analyzed Canadian economic industrial centres, like after Bedini, his lead. trends: consequently, even in the following century, they always paid con- Holy See siderable attention to Montreal."' In 1875, the him sent Monsignor on the difQuebec City and Montreal in view of the establishment new Catholic university. While touring the United States, Roncetti Cesare Roncetti to the United States, asking to enquire also ferences between of a crossed from Buffalo to Niagara and then Falls, visited Toronto, Kingston, Montreal, Quebec and Halifax, i'' His report shows that he did not Ontario and Nova Scotia, nor did he appreciate Quebec attention was for Montreal which he defined Canada. At the same time, he warned by the that city's as the his superiors like City.'^ All his economic core of about the risks posed growth, which might lead to an Americanization of Canada; rapid economic growth and the immigrants' integration in the is, melting pot could, according to him, erase barriers between religious groups and therefore lead to the In conclusion, in this tourists. They went to loss of the Catholic period Italian travellers were not mere first North America, ^^Sanfilippo, 2003, chapter faith. '^ visiting Canada along with the II. For a more detailed analysis: Perin, 1990; Sanfilippo, 2002. ^ ^Archivio Segreto Vaticano, 1875, 18 Archivio di ff. Propaganda Fide, 1875, ^Archivio Segreto Vaticano, 1875, 1876, fif. fiF. 102-109v. ff. 619-620. 102-109v; Archivio di Propaganda Fide, 90-94v. — 41 — Matteo United of purposes: States, for a variety (Castiglioni, (a) to map the Andreani); (b) of the American Revolution and to the continent Sanfilippo understand the consequences new poHtical cartography of they v^ere because (Beltrami, Gonfalonieri, Arese) or they were disgusted exiled by the European Restoration (Vidua), and had to spend their time and, sometimes, earn their living (Gallenga) outside In this third group, Canada as political we Europe; Roman The started politically from different motivated cinated by the United States: they found the new vigour and its was controlling the in a loosen- its economic country" because as "a priest-ridden own freedom. Roman diplomats like the fact that Great Moreover, they despised French local colonies. Canada, which they described it did its Even the them too ancien Catholics; that Among fas- democracy. Consequently, they considered English Canada poor copy of the United States and they did not not fight for were nation uncouth and ing of any links to European culture), but they approved to to and some- travellers rough (they often wrote about a modernization that resulted Britain coming priests Vatican diplomats. All these travellers were mainly interested in and economic matters, but they times surprising perspectives. a (Dupuoy). for business reasons (c) could include also is, régime, Irish did not appreciate Quebec, which seemed while they were surprised by immigrant Catholics in Montreal, Ottawa, and Toronto. who could help when Europe was the immigrants they discovered Catholic fighters the church conquer North America, and becoming too troublesome coming to for the this at a Holy North America were not time See. Therefore, Italian priests so American) modernity. Maybe, they thought, by Canadian (and repelled this was the price to pay for finding a friendlier environment (Sanfilippo, 1995). b) World tours, journalism, emigration, Priestly visitors from Italy nineteenth century but the and business (1860-1920) were not numerous in the second half of the number of lay increased. In 1861 a geologist, Italians who travelled to Giovanni Capellini, undertook a Canada scientific Canada and the United States. After landing in Halifax, where he visited the local museum, he went to Boston and Cambridge and ten days later he was in Quebec City. From there he travelled to Montreal expedition across and Niagara before going south again ested in geological research to the United States. He was and wrote mainly about geological Quebec City and Montreal, but he was also sites inter- around impressed by the Victoria Bridge (Capellini, 1864). In his 1910 autobiography he recalled the scientific meetings he had in Montreal (Capellini, 1910). — 42 — Like the Vatican Images of Canadian Cities in Italy: Now Then and diplomats, Capellini was struck by the modernity of the city and this was, in fact, the leitmotiv of on Canada, Italian writings invariably described as the commercial capital of the in which Montreal is Dominion; moreover, every Italian traveller was deeply impressed by the growing presence of Italian immigrants in that city. At the same time, every the Italian "colony" of Montreal as a way Italian traveller to penetrate the saw Canadian mar- ket (Serio, 1989a and 1989b). From 1861 and the birth of the Kingdom of Italy, tion led Italians to follow developments in Montreal and immigra- 1864, the journalist Cristoforo Negri suggested that Italian In cities. trade and other Canadian traders visit the importance of harbour towns of New Brunswick and underlined the immigrant communities Italian in British Columbia. 20 In 1872, A. Gianelli, Italian consul in Montreal, praised the quality of the city's harbour and thriving trade (Gianelli, 1872). In 1877, diplomat its Luigi Petich declared that Canadian tion of Italian migrants, even cities could become the main destina- and the disliked the "feudal" laws if Italians Catholic clergy of Quebec.^' This trend was reinforced by the famous journalist, He and Japan. border to ly visit new fashion for world tours. In Niagara Ottawa, and Quebec City. His writing like (the former Bytown).^^ In 1871, Kingdom of way to California. made London Quebec, a long detour visiting American West Coast. deals in about He on his Sardinia in San He sailed some detail lyzes the clashes from Montreal and Toronto before continuing to the writes dismissively of the poor architectural taste Montreal and Toronto and has praise only for Quebec with immigration in Canadian Italian migrants, main- cities as importance of immigration and the Ottawa Leonetto Cipriani, formerly consul of the Francisco, is and he seems to consider size also stresses the development of new towns in a from San Francisco to Chicago and then crossed the Falls, concerned with Canada's enormous dominant 868 Enrico Besana, visited North America after India, China, travelled mere stopovers, but he to 1 but also about the Irish. cities, City. He worrying not only At the same time, he ana- between French and English Canadians and comments on the current of bitter hatred which divides them.23 In the spring of 1 876, Enea Cavalieri, another famous journalist, chose 20Negri, 1864, pp. 109-112 and 389-399. 21 Petich, 1877 (on Canada, pp. 134-138). ^^Besana's reportages were printed in the newspaper in many issues of the Giornale popolare di ^^Cipriani, 1931, II, viaggi, pp. 187-194. — 43 — La Perseveranza, 1870-1871. Cf 1 869, and Surdich, 1995. Matteo Canada as his first stop on a world Sanfilippo Three years tour. he recalled later, experience in what was then the most important Italian journal, and Antologia, 1880 he collected and published in 1878 and 1880). In (Cavalieri, ernment because he felt it his writing, he appreciates the British gov- was trying to close the gap between Canada. At the same time, he religions in his articles in a states that the "races" and Canadian gov- to stop the rise of religious fanaticism ernment was unable this Nuova volume and the con- frontation aroused by the school question. Like other Italians, Cavalieri fascinated by Canada's natural landscapes: Falls, Newfoundland and Gaspé, the environs of the Saguenay, the Thousand Islands, and Lake Ontario. In disgusted by Canadian cities: Quebec City he finds dirty and the rugged coast of Quebec City, contrast, he is miserable, Fredericton poor, life. is Montmorency and Niagara He and Toronto seems not to have any cultural declared that the only true metropolis was Montreal, in whose hands lay the future of the country, because only the immigration from Europe could balance emigration to the United States and provide Canada with enough manpower. Italian immigration dian setdements, but it is often at the centre of Italian sketches of Cana- is not the only topic. In 1876, Pietro Dogliotti studied the Canadian and American railway system. stations tion in and railroads; He not only praised he was also favourably impressed by and around Montreal, in particular and Quebec City he found very new construc- by the Victoria Bridge. Toronto beautiful, but he was an admirer especial- ly of the railway bridge in Niagara (Dogliotti, 1877). Francesco Varvaro Pojero set out for a tour of the United States and decided to include a short visit to Canada: he went to Kingston, Toronto, Montreal, and Quebec City, but he did not write about the is "picturesque. "24 Italian Embassy first three cities. The fourth, he states, In 1882, Alessandro Dalla Valle di Pomaro, based at the in Washington, visited Ontario and Quebec, and con- firmed Dogliotti's and Varvaro Pojero's opinion, but with more According to him, Toronto a stay, because of the is pleasant and wealthy; Kingston Thousand Islands; the Victoria Bridge and the European part of Montreal turesque, even Pratesi if is well built; detail. -5 is worthy of is a wonder, Quebec City is pic- the streets are narrow and dark. Finally, in 1900, Attilio came from Japan to Vancouver, which he defines as a "new town" without other qualification. 26 From Vancouver he went to the Rockies ^^Varvaro Pojero, 1878, pp. 239-268. 25Dalla Valle di Pomaro, 1994, pp. 129-137. 2<^Pratesi, 1900, pp. 486-494. — 44 — Images of Canadian Cities in Itaiy: Now Then and which he hked very much and he then crossed the Prairies on his way to Toronto, which he judged quite favourably. In the twentieth century the number of Italian travellers to Canada doubled. Vatican delegates followed Bedini's line describing the develop- ment of Catholic Halifax, Italian priests Montreal and clusters in big cities, in particular in and exalting the love for the pope among the Canadian were looking mainly for Italian faithful. ^7 immigrants, therefore they sketched not only Montreal and Toronto, but also Winnipeg, Vancouver and other urban centres of the West, as well as the mining towns on the East Coast.-^ This massive production began with the essays written by Pietro Pisani and other clerical travellers before the First World War.-^ same ques- In the early years of the century, lay travellers addressed the tion. oir Sometimes, they considered only by Carlo De Stefani, 1914). Stefani for the More trade.^o The Accademia immigration, as in the mem- dei Georgofili in Florence (De and commerCanada could help often, they linked immigration flows cial trends, stating that a Italian Italian stronger Italian presence in Bollettino dell'emigrazione, issued by the Italian Ministry for Foreign Affairs, also published reports on Canada by Italian diplomats in this country or in the United States. "" Because of the grow- ing Italian migration, Italian newspapers sent reporters to Canada: in 1901, for example, the Corriere della Sera published a series on Canada (from Montreal to the West) and Italian immigrants (E.F.B., 1901). Often, and journalists were unclear and factually wrong: Canada for a short time and they did not understand reports by diplomats their writers were in local conditions. Therefore, today's readers should not be surprised by con- fused reporting like that by Giulia Bernocco-Fava Parvis, the Italian delegate to the International Women's Conference of Toronto of 1909 (Bernocco-Fava Parvis, 1910). After a short stay she wrote three the journal ^^See the La Donna letters in articles for which she mixed stereotypes about Canadian by Monsignor Sante Tampieri and Cardinal Vincenzo Vannutelli in occasion of the Eucharistie Conference of Montreal (1910): Archivio Segreto Vaticano, 1911. See also a series of reportages for the Osservatore the First World War: Archivio Segreto Vaticano, 1920, fols. Romano after 58-78; Archivio Segreto Vaticano, Nunziatura del Canada. 28See Sanfilippo, 2003, chapt. VIII; Pizzorusso and Sanfilippo, 2005, part III. 29pisani, 1909; Restaldi, 1910; Grivetti, 1911; Bonardelli, 1912; Rinaudol9l4. 30cf Solimbergo, 1901, Rebecca, 1901; and Serio, 1989a. ^^Rossi, 1903; Viola, 1910a e 1910b; Attolico, 1913; Ehrfreund, 1914; and the reports by Girolamo Moroni, 1914-1915. — 45 — Matteo landscapes (the wonder of Niagara Sanfilippo about the Falls), exaltation Italian dis- covery of Canada (Giovanni Caboto), and finally criticism of Toronto's "puritanism" (where everything was closed on Sundays) and Quebec's con- Her impressions of servative Catholicism. cities present only the notion that Quebec City is like a medieval European town and Montreal is pleasant because of its many beautiful churches (Protestant and Catholic). When she deals with Italian immigration she does not include data; instead, she praises the Italian serve its At own community in Toronto for its ability to pre- language. this point, we could conclude were mainly interested in Canadian immigrants and that what they grants was whether they were really still that Italian travellers of that period cities because they hosted Italian wanted speaking to know about Italian. cern at the time about Italian emigration and these immi- This was the main con- we could also add that the only analysis of Italian communities by an insider was printed decades the death of its travellers more with these because their writings show us a more complex panorama. They writer.^- tended to focus on However, we should deal a Italian emigrants, Dogliotti) have a scientific ty after but background and little many of them (Capellini and are fascinated by the moderni- of Canada. They describe bridges and railways and they appreciate Canadian universities and the level of scientific discussion in them. Others went to Canada while engaged in a world tour (Besana and Cavalieri) and, writing for the press, they compare that country to the United States. This comparison is still no longer seen unfavourable to Canadian to be as poor as cities even though these are they had been in the first half of the nine- teenth century. Finally, the success of these travel narratives together with the curiosity about Italian emigrants forced the Italian press to look for more information on Canada: journalists were sent there (the enquiry by the Corriere della Sera), while people crossing the ocean for other reasons (mainly to attend conferences) were asked to write about their travels (Giulia Bernocco-Fava Parvis). Often these writers are not very good or they do not have enough time to understand Canada, so they rely on previous travellers and travel writers, in or the same By many cases repeating the same errors banalities. this point, however, Italian readers had to acknowledge the exis- tence of a Canadian specificity. In this perspective, it is also important that rich tourists visiting the United States (Varvaro Pojero) or diplomats work- •^ Luigi Fedeli describes the community of North Vancouver graphical sketch, 2001. — 46 — in his autobio- Images of Canadian Cities in Italy: Then and Now ing in Washington (Dalla Valle di Pomaro) decided to tour And record their experiences. immigrants Italian also it is American in large Italians, United States but a reality to to Toronto, Montreal, cities travelled to Canada and Winnipeg. For Canada and important that priests trying to help no longer is mere bad copy of the a be taken into account for itself Fascist travellers The Canada and questionable attention to communities to Italian in came to power in 1922. consuls reported on political attitudes of Canada was shared by diplomats after Mussolini Under the Fascist regime, Italian immigrants in Italian Principe, 2003). cities During the both big and small (Bruti also for Italian speakers to publicize Italian successes speakers about Italian ^-^ rivers, Fascist Other while Fascist visitors were less impressed by Canadian urban Balbo was fascinated by Canadian we find only a positive comment on youth of Montreal, and nothing about urban he had the opportunity to Canada as a rural society journalists, and some of these immigrants, Canadian politics and the growth of Canadian institutions. Italo and Canada asked a description of their tour. Luigi Villari, for example, wrote left universities. 1984; Liberati, Fascist period, Italian consuls in visit several was shared Canadian at this but the former's writings were Errera, 1934), while the latter forests, mountains the harbour and the realities, even though cities. ^'^ The idea of time by geographers and by less original (Michieli, wrote interesting books. In the 1935; summer of 1924, Arnaldo Cipolla travelled through the United States and Canada,^5 portraying the country as uninhabited because of ter's cold, but lauding the beauty of even that of their urban settlements. its Quebec and He disliked vastness British Quebec City but found Montreal "pleasant", and he appreciated Ottawa, even conjured a somewhat sleepy Italian criticism matized the city. and the win- Columbia, and if his description Moreover, he repeated the standard about the reactionary Catholic clergy in Quebec and clerical regime as stig- something worse than the Spanish Inquisition! ^^Bruti Liberati, 1984, pp. 76-78 and 99; ^"^Balbo, 1934, pp. 211-235. 1934. 2004, It is now 80'), possible to On 1934 and 1935. his transatlantic flight, see Delia buy the or to see Quilici, Villari, DVD with newsreels of his 1984 on the web site Campana, travel (Tiberi, of the Istituto Luce (http://ricerca.archivioluce.com/). ^^CipoUa, 1928. 1989. On this book and on Gian Giacomo Napolitano, — 47 — see Kuitunen, Matteo In August 1 924, mathematician Giuseppe Muzi visited Toronto for an and wrote International conference He (Muzi, 1925). pares Sanfilippo a long report for American (downtown skyscrapers) and its the private houses, along the streets) traits. graphic and cultural importance of its saw Niagara stay only in Toronto: he by train on British (the "cottages", Moreover, he Italian Falls hydro-electric plants so he visited also the later travelled Nuova Antologia admires the urban development of Toronto and com- recalls the i.e. demo- community. Muzi did not (where he was fascinated by Queenston power a trans-Canada tour that led him station) and to Cobalt and Sudbury, because of the mines, and to Timmins, where he visited the Italian workers. After four days in Northern Ontario, Manitoba and visited Winnipeg, where he went to he arrived in admire the Grain Exchange. From there on the pattern was: travel by train and stop town. In this manner he visited in a Saskatoon (because of the university) and Regina in Saskatchewan; Edmonton, Calgary, Jasper and Banff in Alberta before crossing the Rockies; and then Vancouver and Victoria Columbia. At the beginning of September, he was back only for a few hours before he embarked on a ship to Europe. back, he saw just a Quebec City, "the old poetic capital few weeks Muzi saw more than other a very On the way of French Canada". In travellers and he also revealed good disposition toward Canada. He praised natural landscapes (Labrador, the St Lawrence, the Great Lakes, the Rockies, the but he was also interested in mines, power plants, he did not despise Canadian In 1931, tion with a Amy trains, and book dealing with Italians in the Canada she declared more immigrants and West Coast), bridges, and cities. Bernardy ended her cycle of works on In a few pages about accept in British in Montreal, but Italian emigra- Americas (Tirabassi, 2005). that this beautiful country could describes the wealthy West and the towns that host Italian communities: Montreal, Toronto, Winnipeg, and Vancouver. 36 Later, Bernardy wrote a small booklet about Canada, but only to praise its Catholic tradition (Bernardy, 1939). Canada between November 1931 a train journey from Toronto to Vancouver. In his book he devoted considerable attention to Italian immigrants and Canadian landscapes (Niagara Falls, the Rocky Mountains), but he also described Gian Gaspare Napolitano and visited May 1932 on cities: Halifax, Toronto, Winnipeg, Calgary, and Vancouver (Napolitano, 1936). Napolitano seems to have had a wider perception of Canadian conditions. In Winnipeg he studied the colonization of the West and described ^%ernardy, 1931, pp. 144-147. — 48 — Images of Canadian Cities in Italy: Then and Now the Grain Exchange. In Vancouver he observed the harbour, but he also sought information on bootlegging. In Halifax he bureaucracy customs, but at is deceived by the sleepy is by the economy of the Maritimes startled which, according to him, should have been connected to Maine and not to Canada. He was he opined, He Americanized. like by Quebec: true French Canadians, also poorly impressed resided in small villages while larger same problem and Toronto, finds that Ontario has the Montreal, does not interest him because urban centres are it is only a typical American town. Calgary, on the other hand, he finds appealing. During Italian this period. immigrants just as Catholic priests continued to pay attention to they had done before the Great War. In 1931, for example. Father Manlio Ciuffoletti wrote a long parish of Winnipeg and gave Canada.'*'' Italian this country as a Roman details on other letter about the Italian communities Italian in Catholic clergy in Canada tried also to consider whole and not only as a stopover for Italian emigration. In January 1935, archbishop Andrea Cassulo, apostolic delegate in Ottawa since 1927, started his apostolic visitation of the country in the dioceses of Ontario. He ended in July visiting the diocese time, he sent the Vatican an of Edmonton; in the mean- enormous number of reports. ^^ Not only did he not forget to mention and to analyze the presence of any kind of immigrants (Italian, Polish, Ukrainian, German, Hungarian, Irish, American, French and Belgian from the East Coast to the Rockies; East European, Chinese and Japanese clash in British Columbia), but he focused between French- and English-speaking Catholics. on ethno-nationalism, but he was convinced when something was really by own priests from their wrong and what he saw on the not keen that parishioners protested that Catholics needed to be helped group. Moreover, his desire to protect Catholic immigrants was a consequence of his lay in also He was as the rise of political perspective. "Communism" in His deepest Canada. how fear He wondered of so many British Columbia could resist against the arrival Communists from Eastern Europe and he pondered the role of Catholics fighting Communist propaganda. At the same time, he was aware of the many nuances of left-wing political movements and he was able to explain to the Vatican the difference between the Communists and the newborn Commonwealth Federation. He also wrote about the of Communism among immigrants in Montreal and at the same Co-operative strength •^' See his letter, dated Winnipeg January 28, 1931, in Francesconi, 1975, pp. 283- 285. -'Archivio Segreto Vaticano, Sacra Congr. Concistoriale. — 49 — Matteo Sanfilippo time he complained that Quebec clergy was only interested in French Canadian nationalism (and he stressed the dangerous influence of the Action Française on the social understanding of Quebec were not different from previous Fascist travellers desire to explain but Canada we should not to their fellow citizens tinued also to travellers in their to their was authorized by forget that every trip any kind of triviality crats. Fascist journalists tried to avoid essence of Canada. and priests). government, bureau- fascist in grasping the Sometimes they could not avoid stereotypes and con- focus on emigrants Italian (Bernardi, and Cipolla, Napolitano), but they also paid attention to the colonization of the West, to maritime trade in Vancouver, to the modernization of Montreal. of every group of immigrants and Italian priests analyzed the situation tried to detect if there was a Communist danger because of immigration. At the same time, they were struck by the conservatism and the nationalism of Quebec clergy. In this regard, reports with those by it is interesting to Paolo De Simone, report on Adrien Arcand and Consul Italian in "pro-fascist Nation}''^ movement of Both Ottawa, and National Social Chrétien his Parti Groulx was the true " in Montreal. Petrucci wrote a lengthy De Simone defined as very dangerous and sponsored by Hitler. that Lionel compare Cassulo's General Consul L. Petrucci, Italian leader, at least on which he , explained of the a cultural level, Paul Bouchard, the founder of the daily La stressed the Nazi-fascist influence on Quebec right-wing Catholicism. Italian priests, vatism of Quebec diplomats and journalists were surprised by the conser- and Catholics, while they were no longer too clergy unfavourably impressed by the "Americanization" of Canada. In 19341935, Villari wrote about the geography and the economic background of Canadian provinces, rise stressing the decrease of the American one (Villari, positive evolution because somewhat backward British, while they 1934 and 1936). This he found Canada was position. of the British influence and the finally leaving In fact. thought that Fascist its to be a previous were vehemently anti- and Roosevelt's United States Fascists Italy behind shared the same ideal of modernity in architecture as in economics. '^o After the Second World When Napolitano War returned to Canada in the 1950s he visited Niagara ^ ^Archivio Centrale dello Stato (Rome), 1934 and 1936. ^^Sanfìlippo and Pizzorusso, 2004, chapt. IV. — 50 — Falls Images of Canadian Cities Then and in Italy: which he found melancholic*' In the meantime the ellers Now taste of Italian trav- evolved along similar lines and with increased curiosity for anything new. Already in the 1920s and 1930s, Italian travellers were attracted mainly by technological and architectural innovation and harbours. "•- After the Second World War Canadian towns in Italian travellers were also struck by Canadian consumerism. After the war, the first travel were studying the new Canadian order to secure reality in agreements (Ghilardi, 1989). At the same time other came a to Canada. two-month where he These included someone visit in who were written by diplomats narratives like new commercial Italian bureaucrats Francesco Piva who, during 1951 stayed in Quebec City, Montreal and Ottawa, visited schools and he mentioned the libraries. '^ In his report, Catholic shade of Quebec's schools and the efficiency of universities and social services in English ple he met on the Canada, but he seems more attracted by the peo- street or in stores. He was fascinated drugstores (at the time, there was nothing like commercial "essence" of Montreal, where Friday. them stores are He is critical of the linguistic skills and by Quebec in Italy) open until City's and by the 9:00 p.m. on the taste in dressing of French Canadians, but he appreciated their comunitarism. He underscored also that British influence does not have any grip on the French Canadian world, which religious orders. Finally, Italian is dominated by Catholic immigrants and Italians are states that, not the best he deals also with according to his colleagues in Ottawa, new Canadians because they are too uneducated. Moreover, in only ten years they tend to forget their mother tongue and cease to be Italian while not merging perfectly into Piva's criticism of Italian travellers. of Italian immigrants It is is already present in Anna Moroni ography from the beginning of the twentieth of it Canadian society. a standard issue in the writings century^"* in the autobiographical literature until the 1980s.^^ Parken's autobi- and we find traces This literature will ^^ Napolitano, 1975, pp. 227-233. ^^Harbours: Ferrante, 1989. Railways: Mazzoni, 1927. Mount Royal Hotel: Piccinato, 1924-1925. Ontario Parliament Building: Morozzo Delia Rocca, 1928-1929. ^^Piva, 1954, pp. 3-100. Moroni Parken, 1907. For the fictional side of this autobiography, cf Principe, 1990. ^-'Albani [Randaccio], Sirio, 1958; Mac Ran [Randaccio], 1979; Torres Gentile, 1982; La Riccia, 1984; Raponi, 1988; Carli, 1996. For an introduction to literature, see Rosoli, 1992. — — 51 this Matteo not be analyzed here because Sanfilippo authors focus their attention on families its and workplaces while they do not mention urban settings, which they refer to genetically as "American". Thus Giuseppe Pisani recounts his "American" experience, but only once mentions that he was working in Montreal Italian We 1989). (Pisani, The not stay long in Canada. Montreal should also common immigrants are more novelist Giose Rimanelli, 1950s before deciding to in the and dazzling, but he city as large stresses settle in who New York, all Fascists, the others were like children incapable of finding their in Canada. for many A priests stayed in Giacomo three times Squilla, and wrote a a priest book on Squilla paid attention only to Italians gle when describes the community and he states that way home. dealing with their parishioners Canada among years, others returned to visit their for example, Canada few parish former the immigrants faithful. In the perspective ) is into the trian- and is also shared by Italian more (in to other priests, in particular to the above-mentioned missionaries among immigrants Toronto,'^^' to his "paesani" in Ontario. Actually, who had immigrated common 1960s, from Sora (Latium), went Toronto-Niagara- Kingston (Squilla, 1969). This "parochial" ways than one did lived in explicit in his hatred for Italian is Montrealers who, in his view, generally were Clerical writers were not as nasty who Canadian racism and the conser- vatism, even with a Fascist streak, of the Italian-Canadian (Rimanelli, 1958). In particular, he "bad" stress that references to books written by people in in Montreal and diplomats (Germano, 1977). Paolo Canali, Italian consul in Montreal from 1958 to 1966 reveals, however, a different approach to the question. According to him, Italian emigration is in its terminal stage, therefore Montreal ghetto but the entrance door to Canada. describes it as a beautiful American tastes the He likes is not an Italian Montreal very much and and international metropolis, even though style of modern architecture is transforming for his many neighbourhoods into anonymous and unpleasant suburbs. Canali's book partly reportage ers, step by and partly journal step, differences between Canada and Europe. Canali described not only the province of Quebec, Quebec is a mix of is and we can appreciate how he discovbut also English Canada. In his pages British values, Latin culture, while its progressive liberation freed its inner energy and from its and American daily life, the grip of the Catholic clergy has inner qualities. English Canada means Ontario to Canali, but he had to admit, quite unwillingly, that he did not like this province. Toronto is too stern compared with lively Montreal, ^evangelisti, 1958; Sacchetti, 1984; Framarin, 1986. — 52 — Images of Canadian Cities while Ottawa Ontario dull is and in Italy: Now Then and unfinished. According to the Italian consul, still an industrial province with a few naturalistic (Niagara is Falls) or cultural (Stratford) sanctuaries, while the truly interesting parts of English Canada him and the United ness and British Columbia. The latter province is new country mid-way between the United Kingdom are the Rockies sketched by as a States. mixing old Canali is — for the i.e., Canadian interest for the 1960s rivers architecture. This blend increasingly successful in is Italian Lawrence and visited while Italian tourists travelled the Falls, St. and the Rockies. In the Great Lakes vision broadcast a long this period, Italian tele- documentary on Canada, and screened flashes about this country. written by the famous author and wit Canada.'^^ and falls—with twentieth-century and 1970s. The Montreal World Exposition attracted architects,"*^ Niagara Canadian (tamed) wilder- Italian appreciation for mountains, When he published an Italian newsreels The documentary's Ennio Flaiano, who screenplay was in love with adapted version of his screenplay, he stat- fell ed that he loved Canadian vastness and that he saw the country ocean where tiny islets are population (Flaiano, 1980). population is with Canada. And immigrants and he wrote land the multiple origin of this composite why exactly the second reason He wanted as a peopled by a very small, but also very diverse to know about Flaiano was so enamoured the natives, but also about the on Italians in Toronto and Montreal. Canada has been considered a good place for Italian travellers: a multicultural society open to foreigners and a country with fine winter landscapes, pleasant cities, and good cultural institutions. Because of the growing number of Italian tourists, Italian publishers have produced a number of guides on Canada, while the press regularly presents a chapter Since the late 1960s, reports about it.^'' Actually, the focus of both the guides mainly on natural beauty, while among and the press is the urban centers only Montreal (and occasionally Toronto and Vancouver) are considered worth a longer stay. Not surprisingly then, the beauty of a city '^See the journal L'architettura. The documentary was for Canada ^^Winter is Cronache restored remembered sports: Pennati, is also linked to northern e storia. by Nicoletta Serio, cf Serio, 1993. Flaiano's love in Flaiano, 1976, p. 14 1. 1994a and 1994b. Nice towns: Mascardi, 1994 (on Toronto). Nice towns, but great natural landscapes (in particular Niagara and the Rockies): Peretta, 1997. Guides: Canada. Guida del turista; Falls Canada, 1993; Canada, 1997; Canada. Costa atlantica; Canada, 2002. Cultural institutions: D'Andrea, 1985; Eco, 1983 (on the Robarts Library of Toronto). — 53 — Matteo snow realities, like at Sanfilippo Christmas time (Brega, 1997), an idea also promot- A ed by guides commissioned by the Canadian government. "^^ ists few novel- joined in this promotion of tourism in Canada: Alessandro Baricco wrote a short piece on winter, hockey and Canada (Baricco, 1994), while Enrico Palandri went in search of Italian immigrants both in Montreal and Toronto (Palandri, 1996). No Canada or Quebec as a setting for an Italian Tondelli has done, and no one has written any travel book on the other writer presented novel, as we could country in the 1990s. Therefore, say that Tondelli's novel is the culminating point of the Italian literary appreciation of Canada and summarizes the Italian vision of the country. But Tondelli also provides a twist to the Italian appreciation of Canada. Because this thought to be somewhat different from the United Canadian searches for a result reality that he discovers Quebec American North America: is far of Beltrami and Dupouy's old a section that modern and not European, but is thesis that the Toronto not too is far from brand of American New York. USA) (i.e. many English-Canadian cities, a con- is Canadian west of the American frontier with the idea espoused by a different now from the American one. As a where people look toward Europe and not toward the west. This flation is the writer Canada, the essence of an un- as the "real" a place that country States, new is just visitors cities are just while only Quebec is real- ly different. Conclusion: the third millennium The approach to travelling in Canada has not changed in the nium. A recent press review featuring Toronto states that where a variety this city has a it is a new millen- modern city of immigrant groups coexist, but then the author adds that long story and lists the Conquest of Canada, the American Revolution, the Flight of the Loyalists, the Hurons and the Iroquois, even the Mounted of press Police (Godetti, 2001). articles movies and film as a ^ festivals.''' good experiment, or Guida del There is, on Canada: on Calgary, on the viaggiatore, Sette/Corriere della Sera, There as a is good also a in fact, a St. growing number Lawrence laboratory,''- and as a place •^ and on where it is 2000, but see also the ads by the same department in 25 November 1999. 51 "Stampede", 2004; Soria, 2001; Quirico, 2004; Matei, 2003; face", Valley, growing trend to define Canada "Canada double- 2003. Gorlier, 1997 and 2003; and reports by Daniela Sanzone from Toronto, since 2002. — 54 — Images of Canadian Cities in Italy: Then and Now possible to eat well, in particular in Montreal (Paolini, 2001). Because of its journalistic dimension, short and impressionistic. al travel writing is Canadian it is possible not only to now is On Italian watch documentaries about number of programs about also a cities. on Canada should also take into account that tradition- being replaced by television and the Internet. television channels Canada, but We travel writing Italian immigrants in In the late 1990s those immigrants were invited to meet their relatives in special shows, ^^ while in the new millennium we have mini-series about poor emigrants leaving Italy and crossing the ocean Canadian winter find themselves lost in the The new medium does not 2004). (Frazzi, to 2001; Ciccoritti, present the Canadian setting as real, but rather as a sort of winter postcard. In a way this in his novel — by web pages. not very is a fairyland. New far from what Quebec was And literature this lack of reality is for Tondelli, at least apparently reinforced about travelling can be consulted on a web site like http://turistipercaso.it/, which posts autobiographical between 2002 and 2005. They are go through them is describe their stay in Montreal (nice their trips to Quebec Niagara ated, while Quebec City park). Other must Toronto and Niagara compared travellers prefer to start in of who its (a cheap is appreci- Italian Toronto, considering that modernity and prefer to start in Montreal Province of Quebec. In this to Gardaland and nice guys) and Toronto theme its this city is a immigrant population, go west or north: a group even went to Yukon. But there are to those to city, Falls. considered a nice town, but not a European one. for Italians because and then still is is to an account by two young women who City, written numerous and we do not have time As an example, there all. tales Quebec City, like last case, we the "old castle" and then to visit only the find again visitors which is, in fact, who, coming the Château Frontenac, as the accompanying jpeg revealsl^^ Italians seem to be convinced that Canadian cities are fascinating only because of their modernity and they are unable to understand the difference between a seventeenth-century building and a late-nineteenth-century one. -'-^In particular Carramba, che sorpresa!, 1996-1998, and Carramba, che fortuna, 1998-1999. -^ http: //www. turistipercaso.it/viaggi/itinerari/testo.asp?ID= 1362; http://www.turistipercaso.it/viaggi/itinerari/testo.asp?ID = 2274; http //www. turistiperc aso.it/via ggi/itinerari/ te sto. asp?ID = 4926; : http://www.turistipercaso.it/viaggi/itinerari/testo.asp.'' I D=7843. Broudeoux, 2004 shows a real castle. that even Canadians believe that Château Frontenac — 55 — is Matteo For them, North America Sanfilippo a gigantic is Disneyland, in which Canada figures as a continental natural resort. Tourists, have a clear grasp of Canadian reality, even educated, do not seem to if while people coming to Canada for some business (diplomats, priests, journalists) are concerned only with cific and question (mainly immigration, as Quebec City have analyzed the various versions of Tondelli's I have criticized his lack of geographical and historical knowledge and tions, that Italian travellers as a group are no better. but they are not that many. Moreover, the writers mainly interested Italian On the Road, but There are excep- listed in this paper the Canadian landscape. Therefore, they have few in intelligent things to say about trip to attempt to read Quebec according to Kerouac's must say are seen, but also trade). I his vain I we have spe- about the country's and even when they cities talk immigrants they resort to stereotypes and "idées reçues": the poor emigrant of one century ago, the virtuous Canadian multiculturalism of today. Should might ever know? we conclude that travellers are the dumbest people we Or should we stress that travel literature is too often dis- appointing? Finally, what about the contribution of travellers to the devel- opment of a dynamic image of other countries? Our Italian travellers went and have been going to the same places for more than two centuries! Maybe we have to consider that travel narratives do not form an unchanging she is literary genre. Any traveller is writing about his writing according to different canons: reports, even diplomats books by (lay or clerical) are journalists. And not the same as trip, if for print, by articles for the press or as even in the large sector of travel narratives by journalists or for the press, we should probably distinguish the professional travellers (Besana, Cavalieri, Cipolla, Napolitano) occasional pieces of those but he or who work of from the crossed the ocean and were asked to write a few pages on their experience. Moreover, we should take into account that based on previous books and articles: travellers go Canada with a number of expectations because of earlier travellers and often knowing what they want to see because of drawings (in the ninetravel narratives are also to teenth century), and then of photographs, movies, television taries or, more recently, pictures presented by our travellers seen before leaving Italy. is on the web. The image of Canadian cities thus also the by-product of images they have Consequently, an analysis of travel narratives must concentrate on what happens before the need for a book about documen- Italian travellers Università della Tuscia Viterbo, Italy — 56 trip, but this realisation reveals the and Canadian cities. Images of Canadian Cities in Italy: Then and Now Works Cited Manuscript Sources Archivio Centrale dello Stato (Rome) Ministero della Cultura Popolare, 44, b. fase. 12 "Canada" fase. 2 "1934". s.fasc. 4 "1936" Archivio di Propaganda Fide (Vatican City) 244 (1876) Acta, voi. Congressi, America Settentrionale, voi. 13, 1875 Archivio Segreto Vaticano (Vatican City) Nunziatura del Canada, scatola 134, fascicolo 1 Sacra Congr. Concistoriale, Visita Apostolica, 66, Canada. 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