48 Hours In: Bologna

3/2/2014
48 Hours In: Bologna - Europe - Travel - The Independent
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48 Hours In: Bologna
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The medieval arcades of this northern Italian city make it a good bet in winter – and
a blockbuster exhibition bolsters the appeal, says Julia Buckley
JULIA BUCKLEY
Saturday 01 February 2014
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Why go now?
The capital of Emilia­Romagna is always a good winter bet thanks to the
30 miles of arcades and colonnades that cover most of the city centre,
buffering the pavements from the elements. A much­anticipated
exhibition, "The Myth of the Golden Age: From Vermeer to Rembrandt",
will run at Palazzo Fava (1) from 8 February to 25 May, showcasing 50
masterpieces from the currently closed Dutch Mauritshuis gallery,
including Vermeer's Girl with a Pearl Earring.
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Bologna's airport (00 39 051 6479615;
your.qropschoices.com/HMRC
ryanair.com) flies from Stansted and
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YEAR OF THE HORSE CELEBRATIONS
bologna­airport.it) is four miles north­west of
the city centre. Ryanair (0871 246 0000;
­listed
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48 Hours In: Bologna - Europe - Travel - The Independent
Edinburgh; British Airways (0844 493 0787;
NEWS
ba.com) flies from Heathrow; and easyJet
(0843 104 5000; easyjet.com) flies from
Gatwick.
From the airport, the Aerobus­BLQ shuttle
runs to the train station via the city centre
every 15 minutes from 5.30am to 12.15am,
taking 20 minutes and costing €6. On
weekdays, it stops at Via Ugo Bassi (2) and Via
dell'Indipendenza (3).
Via dell'Indipend­enza, which leads north to the train station, and the
conjoined Via Rizzoli and Via Ugo Bassi, are Bologna's high streets. Known
Coca-Cola's
mulitcultural Super
Bowl ad infuriates
Twitter users
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Angry users claimed
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as "the T", they're pedestrianised from 8am on Saturday to 10pm on
Sunday. As a result, at weekends, the closest airport bus stop to the city
ADSL 7 Mega centre is Via Marconi (4), a seven­minute walk to Piazza Maggiore (5).
Con traffico illimitato ­
5 mesi gratis e 0 costi
di attivazione...
Taxis take around 15 minutes to the centre and cost about €20.
'I just love helping
people'
Get your bearings
Bologna is a compact city, and the vast majority of its landmarks are easily
walkable in the tangled medieval centre. Sweeping Piazza Maggiore (5),
with its crenellated palazzi and enormous basilica, is the heart of the city;
but the Due Torri (6) – twin medieval towers east of the piazza that lean,
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tipsily, towards each other – are its hub. Five of the main streets spin out
Scommesse from here towards the ancient city gates.
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The tourist office (7) is at Piazza Maggiore 1/E (00 39 051 239 660;
bologna welcome.com). It opens 9am­7pm daily (10am­5pm on Sundays).
Check in
Bologna's only five­star hotel is the opulent Grand Hotel Majestic (8) at
Via Indipendenza 8 (00 39 051 225 445;
grandhotelmajestic.duetorrihotels.com). It was formerly the Baglioni.
Rather outré doubles start at €261, including breakfast. Al Cappello Rosso
(9) at Via de' Fusari 9 (00 39 051 261891; alcappellorosso.it) is equally
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most of the superior ones have fun themes. Superior doubles cost from
€140, room only.
Located in an 18th­century palazzo, the low­budget Palace Hotel (10) at Via
Montegrappa 9/2 (00 39 051 237 442; hotelpalacebologna.it) may not be
the grande dame she once was, but the simple rooms are still comfortable,
with high ceilings and an original fresco in the lobby. Doubles cost from
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€72, including breakfast.
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Take a view
Brave the 498 steps of
the Asinelli tower (6) –
the taller of the Due
Torri, on Piazza di
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Porta Ravegnana. From
the top, among the
terracotta roofs you'll
notice Bologna's 20­odd
remaining medieval
towers, which are often
hidden at ground level.
Entry costs €3 (9am­
Footage of
Iceland air
crash
5pm).
Take a hike
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Twin set: the Asinelli Tower
48 Hours In: Bologna - Europe - Travel - The Independent
Head east from the
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Asinelli along Strada
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Maggiore, turning right at number 19 to cut through the Corte Isolani (11),
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a Medieval shopping mall. You'll emerge at Santo Stefano (12) – a
rambling complex of seven churches from the 10th­13th centuries.
From here, take Via Santo Stefano to Via Clavature, whose tiny church,
Santa Maria della Vita (13), at number 10, houses a harrowing terracotta
Deposition tableau.
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The street opens on to Piazza Maggiore (5). To your left, at Piazza Galvani
1, is the Palazzo dell'Archiginnasio (14), the original seat of Bologna's
university (00 39 051 276 811; www.archiginnasio.it; 9am­6.45pm Monday
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to Friday, 9am­1.45pm Saturday, shut Sunday). Here, wooden "skinned
torso" figures prop up the lecturer's platform in the 17th­century Teatro
Anatomico, or dissection room (€3 entry to Teatro Anatomico; the rest of
the building is free).
To the right, Piazza Maggiore (5), whose castle­like buildings formed the
seat of Medieval power, spills into Piazza del Nettuno (15), where there's a
huge statue of Neptune and a moving photo memorial to the 5,238
partisans killed in the Second World War.
Lunch on the run
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NEWS
Tucked away behind Piazza Maggiore (5) is the Quadrilatero: an ancient
39 051 232226; tamburini.com) has a cafeteria­style outfit, where main
051 223940), is more refined, with mezzanine seating where you can
sample hams and cheeses. Down­to­earth bar Osteria del Sole (18) at
Vicolo Ranocchi 1D (00 39 348 225 6887; osteriadelsole.it, closed Sunday)
has operated a bring­your­own food policy since 1465. Buy lunch at any of
the nearby delis – Salumeria Simoni (19) at Via Drapperie 5/2A (00 39 051
231880; salumeriasimoni.it) is a popular choice – and they'll set you up at
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grid of food shops. The most famous, Tamburini (16) at Via Caprarie 1 (00
meals cost around €7.50. La Baita (17) at Via Pescherie Vecchie 3A (00 39
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a communal table with a glass of wine.
Window shopping
Show Me
Women
Bologna's 16th­century Ghetto Ebraico (Jewish Ghetto) was run down until
Between:
18
Location:
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recently, but is enjoying a cultural renaissance. Tiny Via dell'Inferno (20) is
now crammed with artisan workshops such as the upmarket cobblers La
Calzoleria di Max e Gio at 22A (00 39 051 263856;
lacalzoleriadimaxegio.com) and Cosetta Corticelli (00 39 051 228661;
corticellicosetta.it) on the corner at Via Canonica 3. Casagrande Tigrino at
Via dell'Inferno 24A/B (00 39 051 234948; casagrande­tigrino.it)
produces delicate jewellery, while Arteggiando (21) at Via del Carro 11 (00
39 051 7176556; arteggiando.com) sells locally made textiles and objets
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Bedford Avenue,
Bloomsbury,
London, Greater
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d'art.
An aperitif
3 bed. £950 PW
Nearby, the hipster­vintage surroundings make Camera a Sud (22) at Via
Valdonica 5 (00 39 051 095 1448; cameraasud.net) a popular place to
enjoy an Aperol spritz for €4. Book ahead to ensure a seat.
Dining with the locals
Via Cartoleria has two unique restaurants. Sette Tavoli (23) at number
15/2 (00 39 051 272900; settetavoli.it; shut Sunday) is a tiny gem of seven
tables, whose inventive menu shifts to a different area of Italy each month.
Drogheria della Rosa (24) at number 10 (00 39 051 222529;
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drogheriadellarosa.it) serves Emilia­Romagnan specialities in a
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48 Hours In: Bologna - Europe - Travel - The Independent
Day Two
Sunday morning: go
to church
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peaceful Piazza San
The Santuario della Madonna di San Luca
Domenico (00 39 051
640 0411) contains
Travel Consultant
Baroque and Renaissance work by Guido Reni, Filippino Lippi and
Ludovico Carracci. But the main draw is the saint's spectacularly florid
marble tomb, sculpted by Pisano, Niccolo dell'Arca and Michelangelo.
Walk in the park
Just beyond the southern city walls, Giardini di Margherita (26) at Piazza
di Porta Santo Stefano, is Bologna's only proper park.It is surrounded by
grand palazzi and modelled on London's St James's Park. A central lake
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divides formal lawns – lined by cedar and chestnut trees – from the
commons, where two Etruscan sarcophagi, found during landscaping, sit
beside the path.
Out to brunch
The glass­fronted Chalet dei Giardini Margherita (27) (00 39 051 9913789;
chaletdeigiardini margherita.it) is on the bridge overlooking the park lake.
Warm up with croissants, sandwiches and piadine, a local flatbread (open
8am­7pm). The seriously sweet­toothed should try Regina di Quadri (28)
at Via Castiglione 73A (00 39 051 6446201; reginadiquadri.eu), a chi­chi
pasticceria where shelves groan with pastries and there's a hot­chocolate
fountain (8am­8pm).
Super Bowl 2014:
Floyd Mayweather
denies mammoth
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Denver Broncos
Mayweather says he
didn't place a penny on
the NFL showcase event
NEWS
Take a ride
Santuario della Madonna di San Luca at Via di San Luca 36;
sanlucabo.org), is on a bluff south­west of the centre. Bus tickets, valid for
75 minutes, cost €1.30. Number 32 runs from Porta Castiglione (29) to
Porta Saragozza (30); change there to the number 20, and get off at stately
home Villa Spada (31), where a minibus leaves for San Luca every half­
hour. There's a Baroque church and spectacular views across the city to the
Apennines (open 7am­5pm daily).
Cultural afternoon
Back at Villa Spada, take the 20 bus towards the centre. The Museo Civico
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Medievale (32) at Via Manzoni 4 (00 39 051 219 3930; bit.ly/ MuseoBol),
is a 10­minute walk from the Malpighi stop, along Via Ugo Bassi. The
museum has Medieval and Renaissance treasures, from a Venetian
courtesan's shoes, to jaunty sarcophagi of university lecturers. It is open
10am­6.30pm at weekends (closed Monday; €5).
Icing on the cake
Next door, at number 2, is Palazzo Fava (1) (00 39 422 429999;
lineadombra.it; €12), where the Dutch Golden Age exhibition is being held.
It's open 9am­8pm daily (to 9pm Friday and Sunday; to 10pm Saturday).
JK Rowling admits
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48 Hours In: Bologna - Europe - Travel - The Independent
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