l veFlorence
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l veFlorence
L I V I N G & S T U D Y I N G I N F L O R E N C E - N O V / D E C 2 0 1 1 l veFlorence THE MAGI CHAPEL A CHRISTMAS IN FLORENCE EVENTS & EXHIBITIONS RESTAURANTS, NIGHTLIFE & WELLNESS NOV/DEC 2011 WELCOME A Christmas in Florence ITINERARIES The Magi Chapel EXHIBITIONS LOVEFLORENCE Year #9 – Issue #6 November/December 2011 Free magazine for international students also published online at www.loveflorence.it Editorial office: [email protected] Advertising inquiries: [email protected] Tel. +39.055.412199 The Publisher is pleased to acknowledge the authorship and author’s rights of any photos whose source it has not been possible to trace. While every care has been taken to ensure accuracy, the publisher cannot be held responsible for any errors or changes in the information provided. Published by MEGA REVIEW Tel +39.055.412199 2 Treasure Rooms Money & Beauty Rose c’est Paris La Bella Italia The Pushkin Museum Majesty Macchiaioli Villa Bardini Declining Democracy EVENTS Heidelberg Christmas Market Florence Marathon 2011 Ponte Vecchio Golf Challenge Classical & Pop Music FOLKLORE Thanksgiving Silent Night WELLNESS Wellness Reviews GOURMET Tuscan Olive Oil Christmas Delights Gourmet Reviews NIGHTLIFE 4 8 12 16 18 19 20 21 22 24 26 27 30 34 36 40 44 48 52 Nightlife Reviews 58 CITY MAP 62 WELCOME A CHRISTMAS IN FLORENCE A Shopping Guide W hen it comes to shopping abroad, Italy is a cut above the rest. From tailored leather to some of the world’s greatest selection of wines, you really cannot go wrong in the “boot.” The only thing one might find difficult to bring back through customs is the gelato. International students arriving in Florence during the fall semester often feel obliged to complete their Christmas shopping for loved ones, and this guide is intended to assist you in making those tough shopping decisions. At the top of any dependent student’s Christmas list should be something that represents the inseparable 4 bond between parent and child. Good gift ideas include DOCG wines, hand bags, or a new Italian-English dictionary for obvious reasons. The most important question one should ask themselves is: can you find it in America? And if not, would your parents wear it ten years from now? Grandparents are the easiest of the bunch – if you offend them you won’t see them as often. Most grandmothers enjoy leather goods or jewelry. Ask them for their glove and clothing sizes before you depart and then seek out stores dotting the Arno River and the inner city. Make sure to smile on Christmas Day when you explain to her that those gloves are 100% Italian. 5 ROMEO 1931 more at: < www.romeo1931.it > S No trip is complete without bring back a couple bottles of wine. For those under 21, sneak your bottles through customs at your discretion, for everyone else look DOCG labeled wines. DOCG stands for “Denominazione Origine Controllata e Garantita,” the highest level of grape control in Italy. – At max you will be able to bring back three bottles in your suitcase due to tight restrictions on liquids. Every girl loves a new pair of earrings. Like a purse, this can be a tough purchase without some previous knowledge of what the person on your list prefers; sterling silver, gold, etc.? This is another case of do or die shopping that is best resolved by a quick e-mail to your loved one asking them to send an image of what they would like to add to their collection. You have been taking thousands of pictures, right? Well, when you return to the States one of the best ways to “debrief” your family on your adventures and preserve your memories is a scrapbook. Invite your family to add their comments and emails. Who knows maybe in the distant future your little ones will pick it up and follow in your footsteps. 6 ince 1931 Romeo is dedicated exclusively to the sale of writing and drawing items. An historic stationery store in the heart of Florence that welcomes you between striking vaulted arches and large windows overlooking the elegant palazzo vecchio. The manager Luigi Poli was a founding member of Visconti fountain pens company. The offer of Romeo has grown to accompany collectible fountain pens with highquality products from the leading international brands such as Montblanc, Spalding & Bros., Porsche Design, Faber-Castell, Piquadro and many others. At Romeo you can also find leather bags of the most important fashion designers, watches, clothing, desk items: an ever changing world of accessories that defines our style and our way of life. ROMEO 1931 Via Condotta, 43r 055.210350 7 ITINERARIES THE MAGI CHAPEL Face to Face with the Magi in Palazzo Medici-Riccardi D efinitely one of the must-see sights in Florence: it’s the famous Cappella dei Magi (Chapel of the Three Kings) decorated by Benozzo Gozzoli in 1459-60 as a private place of worship for the Medici family in their newly built palazzo in via Larga (now via Cavour). The chapel is on the piano nobile of the palace, and was one of the first decorations executed after the completion of the edifice by Michelozzo. Gozzoli painted his cycle over three of the walls, the subject being the Journey of the Magi to Bethlehem, a virtually never-ending train of followers surrounds the Three Wise Men on their way to Bethlehem, but the religious theme was a pretext to depict the procession of important people who arrived in Florence in occasion of the Council of Florence (1439). The Medici could boast to have favoured the reconciliation between the Catholic and the Byzantine churches. The luxury of the Byzantine dignitaries is manifest, and shows the impression they would have at the time on the Florentine population. Over a landscape depicted in incredible detail and probably influenced by Early Netherlandish artists (perhaps through tapestries), Gozzoli portrayed the members of the Medici family riding in the foreground of the fresco on the wall at the right of the altar. A young Lorenzo il Magnifico leads the procession on a white horse, followed by his father Piero the Gouty and the family founder, Cosimo. Then come Sigi8 9 smondo Pandolfo Malatesta and Galeazzo Maria Sforza, respectively lord of Rimini and Milan: they did not take part in the Council, but were guests of the Medici in Florence in the time the frescoes were painted. After them is a procession of illustrious Florentines, such as the humanists Marsilio Ficino and the Pulci brothers, the members of the Art Guilds and Benozzo himself. The painter can be recognized for he is looking towards the observer and for the scroll on his red hat, reading Opus Benotii. On the following wall, the bearded character on a white horse is the Byzantine emperor John VIII Palaiologos; the three girls next to him have been identified as the three daughters of Piero de’ Medici, Nannina, Bianca and Maria. Finally, on the wall to the left of the altar are Pope Pius II, portrayed as an old man on a mule, preceded by Lorenzo’s elder brother, Giuliano, carrying a leopard on his horse. In the same scene can be seen theJoseph, Patriarch of Constantinople and other Byzantine dignitaries, surrounded by exotic animals, such as a lynx and a falcon. Visitors can only enter the chapel in tiny groups that can stay there for seven minutes, during which one cannot help feeling daunted by the several 10 hundred square feet of lavishly detailed frescos. But here’s the good news: a unique multimedia system has just been installed to complement the visit by helping visitors learn and familiarize with the hidden meanings of the scene and characters before they proceed to the chapel itself. users can interact in a truly natural way with multimedia audio and video contents: visitors can select the language of their choice, navigate information windows, scroll presentations and enter virtual environments all without wearing or handling any kind of device, but simply by pointing their hand in the air towards buttons and spots of interest on a large screen. .The project is called Laboratorio di Lorenzo (Lorenzo’s workshop) because it is located in the ground-floor room at the NW corner of the palace inner courtyard which is supposed to have been the splendid chamber of Lorenzo il Magnifico as recorded in the inventory of the property that was compiled on his death in 1492. MAGI CHAPEL PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI Via Cavour, 3 - 055.2760340 Open 9-19 - Closed on Wednesdays 11 EXHIBITIONS TREASURE ROOMS Collectors’ Wonders in the Florentine Museums more at: < www.stanzedeitesori.it > T he exhibition delves into the theme of collecting bloomed in Florence in the late nineteenth and early twentieth century, proposing a route between the ‘treasures’ of some of the most interesting museums: Museo Stefano Bardini, Horne Museum, Stibbert Museum, Fondazione Salvatore Romano, Bandini Museum, Museo di Palazzo Davanzati and Museo Casa Rodolfo Siviero. Stefano Bardini was one of the leading figures of the antiquarian market in Florence in the late nineteenth century. Among his clients were included the best-known collectors of the time. Thanks to their influence the world was able to develop the passion for the Renaissance and the “Florentine” taste. Bardini was not alone in this diffusion process but was helped by Elia Volpi, 12 13 whom we owe the foundation of the Museum of Palazzo Davanzati; Stibbert Frederick, who had restored a villa in the hills of Florence, now Museo Stibbert, able to accommodate objects of art applied, weapons, porcelain and costumes that were received in thematic rooms specially furnished and Herbert Percy Horne, who had placed his headquarters in Via dei Benci Palace, now housing Museo Horne, Salvatore Romano is instead the responsable for the collection in Santo Spirito. These sites that at the time were the home collectros or antique dealers showrooms are now among the most interesting eclectic and rich museums in Florence, these museums can now be visited with the Pass of Treasures, a single ticket that allows guided tours and free educational workshops, discounts at conventioned shops and the entrance to the exhibitions that have been designed on the occasion in the individual museums, providing an unmissable opportunity to visit these places and come back again. Until April 8th. TREASURE ROOMS COLLECTORS’ WONDERS IN THE FLORENTINE MUSEUMS 14 PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI Via Cavour 3 MUSEO PALAZZO DAVANZATI Via Porta Rossa 13 MUSEO HORNE Via dei Benci 6 MUSEO STEFANO BARDINI Via dei Renai 37 FONDAZIONE SALVATORE ROMANO Piazza Santo Spirito 29 MUSEO STIBBERT Via Stibbert 26 PALAZZO MEDICI RICCARDI Via Cavour 3 MUSEO CASA RODOLFO SIVIERO Lungarno Serristori 1-3 MUSEO BANDINI Via G. Duprè 1 (Fiesole) 15 MONEY & BEAUTY More at: < www.palazzostrozzi.org > M asterpieces by Botticelli, Beato Angelico, Piero del Pollaiolo,the Della Robbia family,and Lorenzo di Credi -the cream of Renaissance artists- show how the modern banking system developed in parallel alongside the most important artistic flowering in the history of the Western world. The exhibition also explores the links between that unique interweave of high finance, economy and art, and the religious and political upheavals of the time. Money and Beauty. Bankers, Botticelli and the Bonfire of the Vanities recounts the birth of our modern banking system and of the economic boom that it triggered, providing a reconstruction of European life and the continent’s economy from the Middle Ages to the Renaissance. Visitors can delve into the daily life of the families that controlled the banking system and perceive the ongoing clash between spiritual and economic values that was such a feature of it. The saga of the art patrons is closely linked to that of the bankers who financed the ventures of princes and nobles alike, and indeed it was that very convergence that provided the humus in which some of the leading artists of all time were able to flourish. Crucial to the illustration of this story are the masterpieces created for the great banking families, while the trajectory of some of Florence’s great families, rocked by financial setbacks, drew to a close with the political and religious storm triggered by Savonarola. The exhibition also uses the detailed depiction of episodes in bankers’ daily lives to illustrate the era when Florence was the financial capital of the world, and an array of multimedia tools help the visitor to get a clear perception of the ways in which trade was conducted and money travelled throughout the known world at the time. Until January 22nd MONEY & BEAUTY BANKERS, BOTTICELLI AND THE BONFIRE OF THE VANITIES PALAZZO STROZZI - Piazza Strozzi 055.2645155 16 17 ROSE C’EST PARIS LA BELLA ITALIA More at: < www.mnaf.it > More at: < www.unannoadarte.it > A n exhibition rich and complex as the city that inspired it, a menage a trois between the allegorical picture of Bettina Rheims, the movie by Serge Bramly and the city of Paris as muse. A set of scenes as a series of tableaux vivant, constructed and imagined dramas staged and then photographed and filmed by this two artists: a fictional story told through a new and striking form of storytelling. A location where the photograph and the film are presented simultaneously, moving images and still images clashing together. “Rose c’est Paris” is both a photographic exhibition and a DVD, a work of art in two different formats, both interrelated and complementary. A captivating poem of the symbolism in which the authors evoke the “city of light”: it is a Paris full of surrealist visions. 1 861, at the eve of the unification of Italy, the historical and cultural differences between the states of the Peninsula were bigger than they were among the “nations” of the nascent America, though Italy was the common homeland, united by language, religion. A legacy passed down from ancient Rome, to the times of Dante Alighieri and Francesco Petrarca. On such a common knowledge were grafted the stories of the pre-unification capital cities: Milan, Turin, Genoa and Bologna, Florence and Venice, Naples, Rome, Palermo. At least 350 works of art from several museums in Italy and the world tell the identity of the pre-unification Italian capitals. Until February 12th. Until November17th. ROSE C’EST PARIS BETTINA RHEIMS AND SERGE BRAMLY MNAF - MUSEO NAZIONALE ALINARI Piazza S. M. Novella 14ar - 055.216310 18 LA BELLA ITALIA: ART & IDENTITY OF THE CAPITAL CITIES PALAZZO PITTI - Piazza Pitti, 1 - 055.23885 19 THE PUSHKIN MUSEUM MAJESTY More at: < www.uffizi.firenze.it > T he exhibition is the result of cultural exchange during the year celebrations of Italy - Russia 2011. The Uffizi Gallery houses a large table from thirteenth century depicting Mary and Child Enthroned from the Pushkin Museum in Moscow. This is a very important Italian painting of the thirteenth century, virtually unknown even to scholars of early middleage painting. The work will be exposed to direct comparison with the three great Majesties of Cimabue, Duccio and Giotto. The work shows clear debt to the culture of Byzantine painting flourished in large parts of the Italian peninsula during the twelfth and thirteenth centuries. Until January 8th MACCHIAIOLI VILLA BARDINI More at: < www.unannoadarte.it > A beautiful collection showcased in the halls of Villa Bardini. Sunny and rural landscapes, seascapes, portraits of young women and children are the subjects of the paintings by Giovanni Fattori, Telemaco Signorini, Silvestro Lega or the triumphs of color by Plinio Nomellini. A dip in the waters of the Arno painted by Borrani, walks along the rows of poplars immortalized Fattori and Gelati, the clear air of “A beautiful winter morning” by Cecconi, are not only masterpieces of painting technique, but true expressions of the soul that invite you to share the beauty of wonderful places such as participating in good headline Villa Bardini with its beautiful gardens and its exciting views of Florence. Until November 27th THE PUSHKIN MUSEUM MAJESTY GALLERIA DEGLI UFFIZI Piazzale degli Uffizi, 1 055.2388651 20 MACCHIAIOLI IN VILLA BARDINI VILLA BARDINI Costa S. Giorgio, 2 055.20066206 21 DECLINING DEMOCRACY More at: < www.palazzostrozzi.org > C ontemporary art as a platform to explore contemporary social and political issues. Their works put together through this exhibition create a reflection on the values, contradictions and paradoxes that typify today’s society. The show further addresses the possible declinations of the principles of democracy, which recently is being challenged more and more. The artworks on display will consider such themes as the clash between the individual and the community, the growing gap between the average citizen and the political classes, the power and influence of economic lobbies and mass media, the issues surrounding immigration and the refusal of civic and political rights. SALVATORE FERRAGAMO ISPIRAZIONI E VISIONI GUCCI 90TH ANNIVERSARY THE GUCCI MUSEUM MUSEO SALVATORE FERRAGAMO Via Dei Tornabuoni 2 - 055.3360456 GUCCI MUSEUM Palazzo della Mercanzia, Piazza della Signoria, 10 Does an artist always have a source of inspiration in developing a creative idea? How is it elaborated, which is the way it profiles, which are the results it leads to? These are the questions we faced as base of this exhibition. 255 works of art displayed, including 99 Salvatore Ferragamo shoes dating back to the 1920’s through the end of 1950, along with 156 works of art from public and private collections, not only international but especially Italians and Florentines. The Gucci Museum is a permanent exhibition from its rich and culturally significant archive juxtaposed with contemporary art installations. The exhibition spaces is divided into different thematic rooms inspired by the House’s iconic motifs and symbols. An icon store, bookshop, gift shop and Gucci caffè, at the ground floor, complete the exhibition spaces. Visitors can use WI-FI network. Permanent Exhibition. Until March 12th 2012. Until January 22nd. DECLINING DEMOCRACY CCCS STROZZINA Palazzo Strozzi, Piazza Strozzi 055.391711 22 23 HEIDELBERG MARKET THE WEIHNACHTSMARKT IN FLORENCE H eidelberg, one of Germany’s most charming towns, is once again lending its 500-year-old Heidelberger Weihnachtsmarkt or Christmas market to Florence and, with it, the culture and traditions of its people. This delightful German Christmas market is composed of about forty small wooden huts that host the stalls themselves and enlivened by merry-go-rounds that add a special charm to the beautiful square of Santa Croce. The stalls sell Christmas tree decorations, Nativity Scene figurines, hand-made toys and Christmas pyramid merry-go-rounds, traditional ceramics, typical food products such as spiced wines, beers, wurst and strudel, as well as German Christmas confectionary like Pfefferkuchen, the special Heidelberg honey biscuits and Dresdner Stollen. So... Happy Christmas, or Frohe Weihnacht! November 30th - December 18th. COMMEMORATION OF UGO DI TOSCANA BADIA FIORENTINA Via Dante Alighieri, 12 Hugh the Great or Ugo di Toscana (c.950–December 21st 1001) was Margrave of Tuscany. He is considered the founder of Tuscany as we know it today and the story of his life is shrouded in legends full of heroic deeds. A very moral and pious prince, he endowed many religious institutions. He died under rather mysterious circumstances in Pistoia and was secretly brought to Florence to be buried in the Badia Fiorentina. A mass is held here in his memory every year since his death. FLORENCE NOEL STAZIONE LEOPOLDA Piazzale di Porta al Prato 055.8953651 A charming Christmas Market Show with selected exhibitors hosted in a suggestive Christmas atmosphere. An unusual path, full of trees, mistletoe, wreaths and lights. This trade show provides the opportunity to shop for Christmas decorations for the home, for the tree and the crib, many gift ideas for young and old, to gourmet lunches and dinners laden for the Christmas season. Visit the house of Santa Claus or the Chocolate Village. November 11th -13th. December 21st. CHRISTMAS MARKET IN SANTA CROCE Piazza Santa Croce 24 25 FLORENCE MARATHON 2011 GOLF CHALLENGE more at: < www.firenzemarathon.it > more at: < www.pontevecchiochallenge.it > S ign on for the 28th Florence Marathon on Sunday November 27th. It is an international event that involves the entire city! Its fascination lies in its route through the city centre, a route covering 42,195 km surrounded by centuries of art, history and culture. A unique event for the thousands of sportsmen who take part in it every year from all over the world. The event has grown exponentially in recent years, so much that on the past edition has hit a new record of members, with 10,200 runners from 62 countries. Impressive numbers witnessing a growth that is also qualitative, making the Florence Marathon the second Italian marathon, just behind Rome. The race this year will start from Lungarno Pecori Giraldi, goes towards the wide boulevards and soon move to the Cascine Park before crossing the center of the town to head for the triumphant arrival in Piazza Santa Croce. November 27th. F or the last ten years the most famous golf approach championships have been staged, during the week before Christmas, in the extraordinary setting of the Ponte Vecchio and its river in Florence. The event was first held in 1997 but, since 2006, the Approach Championship of the Ponte Vecchio has effectively became an official sport, with fifteen professionals from as many countries. This year the most exclusive golf course in the world opens again in Florence from December 16th to 18th and its tees on the Ponte Vecchio will be hosting world famous professionals who will all try to beat each other by putting onto the four floating islands on the Arno. December 16th-18th. 28TH FLORENCE MARATHON Start at Lungarno Pecori Giraldi 26 PONTE VECCHIO GOLF CHALLENGE Ponte Vecchio 27 Bartolomeo Ammannati TUSCANY DAY More at: < www.regione.toscana.it > T he Feast of the Tuscany is a recent festivity that has been officially held on November 30th since the year 2000. It was introduced to celebrate the ideals of peace, justice and liberty and marks the anniversary of the important Penal Reform Bill or Leopoldine Code, created by Pietro Leopoldo of Lorraine, Grand Duke of Tuscany between 1765 and 1790. Among other things, the code, inspired by the theories of Cesare Beccaria, abolished the death penalty for the very first time (November 30th 1786) and ordered that all the gallows in Tuscany be immediately dismantled and destroyed. It was soon copied elsewhere in Europe. Celebrations start in the afternoon with the historic pageant of the Florentine Republic from Palagio di Parte Guelfa to the Tuscan Regional Council in Via Cavour. Here it is joined by the authorities before returning to Piazza Signoria where a bonfire is lit to symbolise death at the stake. Then, at 5pm, all the church bells throughout Tuscany are rung and band music played in the squares. November 30th. 28 29 CLASSICAL MUSIC RYUCHI SAKAMOTO - TRIO TOUR The Japanese artist Ryuichi Sakamoto, eclectic composer, musician and actor, will bring his new tour in Italy.The Trio will perform electronic, ambient, bossa nova, pop music, world and classical music. 10 November - 20.45 - Teatro Verdi Via Ghibellina, 99 - Firenze IL BARBIERE DI SIVIGLIA Opera in two acts, Music Giacomo Puccini, text Cesare Sterbini, Conductor Antonio Pirolli, Director Josè Carlos Plaza, Scenes Sigfrido Martin-Begué. 29 November - 1-4-6 December 20.30 - Teatro Comunale - Corso Italia, 16 - Firenze QUARTETTO DI CREMONA The world of Quartet (XXI) - L. BOCCHERINI: Quartet op.1 n.6.; B. BARTOK: Quartet n.4.; F. SCHUBERT: Quartet in G major op. 161 D 887. 19 November - 21.00 - Teatro della Pergola - Via della Pergola, 18 - Firenze ALEXANDER LONQUICH Orchestra della Toscana and Alexander Lonquich conductpor and pianist performing ARVO PÄRT Silouans Song; SCHUBERT Sinfonia n.6 D.589 ‘La piccola’; FAURE’ Pavane op.50; FAURE’ Ballade for piano and orchestra; R. STRAUSS Burleske for piano and orchestra 30 November - 20.45 - Teatro Verdi Via Ghibellina, 99 - Firenze LA BOHÈME Opera in four acts, Music Giacomo Puccini, text Giuseppe Giacosa and Luigi Illica, Conductor Carlo Montanaro, Director Mario Pontiggia, Scenes Francesco Zito. 25-30 November - 2-3 December 20.30 - Teatro Comunale - Corso Italia, 16 - Firenze 30 JAMES CONLON James Conlon directs the Orchestra e Coro del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino with Soprano Ekaterina Sadovnikova; Claude Debussy: Trois Nocturnes; Francis Poulenc: Gloria, for soprano, orchestra and chorus; Modest Musorgskij: Pictures at an Exhibition 10 December - 20.30 - Teatro Comunale - Corso Italia, 16 - Firenze BALLETTO DI SOFIA THE NUTCRACKER Balletto di Sofia, the first Bulgarian classical ballet company will perform the nutcracker: Ballet in two acts inspired by a story by ETA Hoffman, Music Pyotr Ilyich Tchaikovsky, Marian Zahara and Marius Petipa choreography, sets and costumes Eslitsa Popova 21 December - 20.45 - Teatro Verdi Via Ghibellina, 99 - Firenze ENSEMBLE SAN FELICE CHRISTMAS CONCERT Ensemble San Felice, conductor Federico Bardazzi with Orchestra da Camera Fiorentina perforino Haendel: Messiah Oratory for choir and orchestra 23 December - 21.00 - Auditorium Santo Stefano al Ponte - Piazza di Santo Stefano - Firenze CHRISTMAS CONCERT GOSPEL AND SPIRITUAL A Christmas Concert devoted to Gospel and Spiritual music with The Sue Conway Victory Singers accompanied by the Orchestra della Toscana 24 December - 17.00 - Teatro Verdi Via Ghibellina, 99 - Firenze SLOVAK NATIONAL THEATRE GISELLE The Slovak National Theatre, founded in 1920 is one of the most important cultural institutions of the country. Now includes sections of opera, theater and ballet, each one with its own permanent professional company. Since the ‘90s, the ensemble presents choreography by Ondrej Soth, now at the helm of a company represented by a new generation of dancers. Music by Adolphe-Charles Adam direction Ondrej Šoth and Juraj Kubánka 9 January - 20.45 - Teatro Verdi Via Ghibellina, 99 - Firenze 31 POP MUSIC BOB DYLAN + MARK KNOPFLER One of the most important tour of 2011, two giants of the international rock like Bob Dylan and Mark Knopfler together for the first time sharing the same stage. The minstrel of Duluth and the former Dire Straits leader have decided to run together, each with their band, for about thirty dates. November 11th - 21.00 Mandela Forum - Viale Paoli ZUCCHERO CHOCABECK TOUR The bluesman after the European tour that saw him busy during the whole summer is ready to return to Italy for an indoor tour which will present the latest tracks of his new album Chocabeck, triple platinum in Italy (over 200 000 copies) , which is enjoying success in Europe where it has exceeded 300 000 copies sold. November 20th-21st - 21.00 Mandela Forum - Viale Paoli 32 BUD SPENCER BLUES EXPLOTION The Bud Spencer Blues Explosion bring their new album DO IT! on tour. The result of an endless number of gigs around the U.S. and Italy. The “power duo” has masterfully synthesized the twelve-bar blues, the emotional impact and attitude of classic rock and avantguard. November 26th - 21.00 - Viper Theatre Via Pistoiese / Via Lombardia BADLY DRAWN BOY It was June 2000 when the Mercurywinning, seminal The Hour of the Bewilderbeast, announced the arrival of the badly drawn genius of Damon Gough. It’s been a curious, wonderful, inimitable, unpredictable decade of major prizes and minor incidents, all possibilities and pissing in the wind, at the end of which we find Gough starting the new decade as he did the last… at a creative peak, and back on his own label. December 10th - 21.00 - Viper Theatre Via Pistoiese / Via Lombardia FOLKLORE THANKSGIVING Strange to Europeans A strange custom/holiday in the eyes of Europeans is Thanksgiving of the United States. This holiday first came into being when the Pilgrims, originally known as the Plymouth settlers, first got to the new land in hopes to make a new life. Little did they realize the drastic changes they would have to face. In reality, the Whites had managed to survive on their own in this different land thanks to the help of a Native American named Squanto. He taught them fishing, how to plant corn and other vegetables, how to catch eel, and also served as their native interpreter. The Pilgrims held a feast, an autumn celebration with tons of food and praising the Lord, directly after their harvest, their first successful harvest. It turned out to be not one day, not two days, but a full three day event. All this started in the year of 1621 in the land now known as Massachusetts. The meaning of Thanksgiving has obviously changed throughout these years past. These years of industry haven’t required the average American to harvest their dinner, harvest being their only way of making money. Nowadays we remember the troubles that our ancestors went through but don’t truly comprehend the said hardships. With our thriving electronic society our worries have been changed from ones of freezing during the winter to being the best we can possibly be. 34 35 FOLKLORE SILENT NIGHT A Christmas in Florence X mas in Florence is unique for anyone who decides to visit the city at this time of year. Certainly the lights are nothing like as splendid as those in London or New York, but medieval and Renaissance Florence doesn’t really need a huge amount of glitter, when every street, every corner and every house reflects ancient festivities, some long forgotten, some utterly transformed, while others that have survived intact. Even so, hanging strings of glittering lights, snow flakes and garlands illuminate the boulevards until everything is adazzle with light, from the trees and the facades of the great houses to the windows and the squares. The silent candle-lit churches, the Nativity scenes, the deeply religious services and concerts contrast with the bustling streets outside, where every shop window offers tempting and captivating wares that are impossible to resist. PRESEPE VS XMAS TREE You may find it hard to believe but Christmas trees are a relatively recent introduction to Italy, a tradition that gradually crept in during the 20th century from Northern Europe. Nativity scenes are instead a classical Italian institution and range from very simple family-made arrangements to more complex ones, usually to be found in churches. The tradition of 36 37 setting up a Nativity Scene (presepe or presepio in Italian) is thought to originate from Christmas 1223 when St. Francis of Assisi set up a representation of the Nativity in the town of Greccio. Drop in to admire the beautiful Nativity scenes set up every year in the Churches of Santa Maria de’ Ricci and of Santa Margherita de’ Cerchi or of Dante (both in Via Santa Margherita). BEFANA VS SANTA CLAUS Until recent times Italian children did not receive their presents from Santa Claus at Christmas, but from a benevolent witch called Befana on January 6th. Good children got sweets and other goodies, while naughty children received lumps of coal. Legend has it that the Befana gave hospitality to the Wise Men when they called on their way to Bethlehem, but would not go with them because she was too busy. However on afterthoughts she repented her decision and now spends her time leaving presents at each house she visits, just in case one of the children living there is baby Jesus... 38 A WELLNESS (1) PALESTRA RICCIARDI (1) GYMNASIUM FITNESS CENTER Founded 50 years ago, Palestra Ricciardi is the biggest gym in the Florence downtown, known as the coolest gym in town, Palestra Ricciardi combines experienced staff with the most modern equipment to offer the best fitness options. You can improve your physique in a pleasant and dynamic environment spread over a surface of 1600 sqm surrounding a lovely internal garden. The space devoted to your training is composed of several areas which include: the cardio fitness area, the free weights area, rooms for isotonic equipment, two rooms for classes and the spinning room. After a hard training session you can choose to relax in a sauna or with a massage session. The gym offers 81 hours of classes weekly: Total Body Workout, Step, Spinning, Easy Dance, Corpo Libero, Yoga, Hip Hop, Power Pump, Body Sculpt, Pilates, Fit Box, Stretching, Gag, Soft Gymnastic, Capoeira. Palestra Ricciardi also provides personalised fitness programmes under the supervision of a fully qualified instructor. There are special membership fees for students. Gymnasium Fitness Center means fitness and relaxation in the heart of the city, close by Santa Maria Novella. Highly convenient for people who study in the city centre, Gymnasium Fitness Center expresses a clear vocation for Wellness. The beauty structure offers sauna, solarium, massage and treatments. Gymnasium Fitness Center not only proposes courses but also programs personalized trainings, events, stages and lessons carried out by experts in various types of sport. Many are disciplines carried out in the Gymnasium Fitness Center from Pilates to Yoga Stretch tone to TBW, Aero Box to Capoeira and for those who love dancing HipHop, Salsa and even belly dancing. Gymnasium applies a special discount for students with a first day free and no no sign up fee added. Borgo Pinti, 75 - 055.2478444 www.palestraricciardi.it Via del Palazzuolo, 49r 320.1748812 (2) re you a step machine addict or dreaming of perfect muscles? Or have you just arrived in town and need to find a gym (possibly within walking distance) in the city centre? There are an infinite number of gymnasiums. It is worth hunting up one with the facilities you require nearest to your digs. Many also do courses in yoga or the martial arts pilates to FIt box or Capoeria (a brazilian way between a martial art and a dancing) or have a gymnasium attached. And obviously most of these gyms offer special relaxing areas with sauna, massages or spa. Florence also boasts many dance and ballet schools, though of course you have to select the type of dance course you prefer. Start looking for your ideal gym from our tips. (2) 40 41 WELLNESS GABRIO STAFF OLIMPO (1) The very first HAIR SPA in Florence. A project based on women’s typical need for complicated charm and on the desire not only to offer beauty services, but also sensorial experiences. Today clients at the GabrioStaff Olimpo are wrapped up in a soft bathrobe and offered a comfortable chaise longue to stretch out on, while expert hands give them a relaxing head, neck, shoulders and arms massage. Here, specialised treatment, is blended with well-being, “People always say that women go to the hairdresser not only do they go to improve their looks, but also to relax” Gabrio Giunti explains. Four private VIP booths designed in different styles: in Florentine style, in walnut, and in art deco. Gabrio Staff conceived the interior design and furnishing according to the specific requirements of the stylist: open-view arches with elements of minimal style furnishingy. The salon offers complete hairstyle services and includes a wellness with Ayurveda and Indian massages. (1) 42 Via Tornabuoni, 5 - 055.214668 www.gabriostaff.it Hours: Tue-Sat 9.30am-9pm Mon 1pm-8pm GOURMET TUSCAN OLIVE OIL Freshly milled N ovember marks the harvesting of the olives. It is usually hard and backbreaking work and not helped by the first winter rains and cold north winds. You can volunteer to help if you like...but it is really only enjoyable on sunny days! What is fun is going to watch the oil being milled. This is not as hard as it sounds as the frantoi or oil mills are open to all during the harvest as people gradually bring in varying quantities of olives for milling. Snacks and even meals are often of offer to help clients pass the time while waiting for their oil to be ready, so there 44 is no reason why you should not partake of the repast too! Almost every farm in Tuscany boasts an olive grove (many people have a tree or two in their garden for home consumption); some farms even have their own olive press, a guarantee of good oil, as the olives should be milled immediately after picking. Others have to take their olives to the nearest available press for immediate washing and milling. The traditional method for milling olives is by placing them on a large, circular block of granite, where they are crushed by two turning granite wheels. 20 minutes later the olives have been transformed into an oily pulp. This is spread out on round 45 mats of woven hemp, each with a hole in the middle, which are stacked on a spindle and placed under an increasing pressure to extract the oil and juice that collects at the base. The first oil is considered superior to that extracted at the end of the process. Waste water and sediments are separated from the oil, either by successive decanting or centrifuge. Olive oil does not improve with age, it simply mellows, and the pungent aroma and the vivid taste of the freshly pressed greenish oil gradually turns golden yellow to acquire a velvety texture. A good extra virgin oil should stay fairly fresh for a year or more if properly stored in cool place. The deliciously tasting Tuscan oil is particularly low in acid content and therefore better for you, though the flavour can vary according to where the olives are grown, climate and so on. It can be peppery, fruity, full-bodied, or mild with underlying scents of grass, artichokes or wild herbs, certainly it should be flavoursome and not just oily. Watch out for wine and oil fairs, especially in the country (Reggello, Calenzano, Barberino Val d’Elsa), in early November. You can taste some excellent and often very reasonably priced oils (taste several to decide which you like best). Dribble it over a slice of Tuscan bread or, better still, toast rubbed with garlic, add some salt and go with the flavour... 46 GOURMET CHRISTMAS DELIGHTS Panettone, Pandoro, Panforte & Ricciarelli E very Italian region cherishes its own traditions in Christmas sweets, although advertising and the large-scale production in the past few decades has levelled out the national standard to but a few: panettone, pandoro, panforte and ricciarelli. None of these recipes originated in fact as Christmas specialities but, over the years (and sometimes centuries), they have come to be associated more or less closely with the Festive Season. PANETTONE The Italian “Panettone” is the typical Christmas cake that all Italians buy (they rarely make it at home) to celebrate the festivities. Although it originated in Milan, Christmas wouldn’t be Christmas for any Italian without his panettone (we could translate it as large loaf and it does in fact rather resemble a loaf of bread). It comes in all shapes and sizes and today in hundreds of variations. The traditional type, made with flour, eggs, butter, vanilla and sugar, is stuffed with raisins and candied fruit. The Florentine version also contains pine nuts and aniseed. It should be well leavened and bulge out over the edge of its paper container. 48 PANDORO The plainer “Pandoro” (Golden bread), from Verona, was created to satisfy those who do not like raisins and candied fruit and should be sprinkled with powered icing sugar so that it appears to be dusted with snow. Now both variations can be found stuffed with creams and flavourings, or covered in chocolate or icing sugar, with new versions appearing in the Christmas windows every year. The Panettone or Pandoro is also a very popular Christmas present: It can make a handy gift for friends and relations, is most appreciated by business acquaintances or staff or just as a thank you present for some past favour. Christmas gift baskets always contain a panettone of some sort. 49 PANFORTE Panforte is a heavenly mixture of honey, spices, candied fruit and nuts and has the added advantage of keeping for a long time. Its origins go back to the Middle Ages, when, on his return from Arab countries, Niccolò Salimbeni brought some “honey and pepper” loaves back to Siena. The formula has developed as new ingredients became available over the centuries. Today the most popular variety is the panforte Margherita, light in colour and more delicate in taste than most other types, and dusted with confectioner’s sugar. It was created by Enrico Righi in 1879 in homage to Queen Margherita, who visited Siena with her husband King Umberto I for the Palio. RICCIARELLI Ricciarelli are instead lozenge-shaped biscuits made with whole, freshly crushed almonds blended with sugar and honey. They can be white - with a light coating of confectioner’s sugar - or come frosted with chocolate layer, a more modern version of the original recipe. Renaissance documents describe Ricciarelli as being served at the most sumptuous banquets in Italy and France. Needless to say, if you are flying home for Christmas, any one of these Christmas specialities will certainly make a most welcome present for family and friends! 50 T FLAVOURS OF TUSCANY (1) (2) 52 NATALINO (1) BOCCANGERA Situated in the former church of San Piero Maggiore, which still shows traces of ancient capitals and decorations, in the quarter of Santa Croce, Restaurant Natalino has been one of the city’s best known restaurants for the last 130 years. A popular meeting place for Florentine artists, Restaurant Natalino is famous throughout the world for its interpretation of the traditional local cooking, from the delicious starters to the classical Florentine first courses - ribollita or fresh pasta served with various sauces - or the grilled meats that include thick juicy steaks. The menu and wine list offer a perfect food and wine experience, with simply prepared seasonal products cooked in the knowledge of ancient traditions. The quality of the cooking, the fascinating environs and welcoming family atmosphere trasform dining at Natalino’s into a voyage into the Italian way of life. Natalino now doubles with the recently opened Wine Bar, ideal for lunchtime breaks, offering typical platters, tasty snacks and sandwiches and also selling bottles of excellent vintage wine. Restaurant Boccanegra is situated in 16th century Palazzo Salviati in the heart of Florence. Its very special site also inspired its name; Simon Boccanegra, the first Doge of Genoa, was also a Ghibelline, as well as being the subject of a famous opera by Giuseppe Verdi. An antique wooden door set in a glass wall leads into an attractive period styled interior, while the 19th century furniture creates an eleg ant but also warmly welcoming environment. The Restaurant offers a haute cuisine based on meat and fish, cooked using ancient but revisited local recipes, all spectacularly arranged.The Osteria, another of the restaurant’s attractions, with an independent entrance in Via Verdi, is dedicated to the traditional Tuscan cuisine. The cellars are situated in the foundations of the building, built onto the lower parts of the ancient walls of Florence. The new Cantinetta right next door to the restaurant, offers wine tastings matched with various delicacies from the kitchens.The restaurant is therefore perfect for hosting important occasions and events. Borgo degli Albizi, 17r - 055.289404 www.ristorantenatalino.com Open for lunch & dinner: 12.00-14.30 ;19.00-22.30 Closed on Mondays Restaurant - Via Ghibellina, 124r Osteria - Via Verdi, 27r - 055.2001098 www.boccanegra.com Open 12.00-14.30 & 19.00-24.00 - Closed on Sundays (2) he legendary and extremely simple food of Tuscany is the result of centuries of poverty and therefore has been based on salads, legumes, cereals and meat since the Middle Ages. Olive oil is almost always used rather than lard, and vegetable soups rather than pasta. All the food is bread related and of course the main drink is wine that lends colour to every glass. Although the modern trends in food have practically swept away many regional culinary traditions, Tuscany can still boast of an incredible historic continuity in traditional cooking and therefore has managed to preserve dishes that the present research into genuine foods is once more bringing back into the limelight, to the joy of all tastebuds, including those of its foreign visitors. We should remember that most typical Tuscan dishes are linked to particular areas or the various seasons of the year. 53 N FRESH FLORENTINE FISH (1) (2) 54 FELLINI (1) LA BARONDA FISH RESTAURANT (2) Fellini is a new and innovative restaurant that aspires to be one of the gourmet places in Florence. The name and the choice of the location, opposite the old Teatro Verdi, tells of the owner Pierluigi Di Pasquale’s passion for cinema…and good food. The ambience is very nice, with well spaced tables, Murano glass lamps, shielded by original drapery, which emits a soft light: an environment ideal for a relaxing dinner. The seafood-based menu offers a large selection of shellfish and seafood appetizers which give richness to the first course. The second course is updated daily to make space for the fresh catch of the day, the Catalan Fellini triumph with lobster, shrimp, and red shrimp. Some meat dishes make Fellini the perfect chance for a special dinner even if not all guests love fish. Chef Claudio Nardello produces delicious dishes with impeccable balance of intense but delicate flavor, with his excellent technique. The result is a sober and distinct cuisine that can satisfy the most demanding palates. The service is refined and punctual and the cellars are well stocked with quality wines. La Baraonda Fish Restaurant, located in the famous Santa Croce Square neighborhood, offers an unique chance to taste the real flavours of Naples and the Amalfi Coast deep in the heart of Florence. La Baraonda will welcome you in a friendly yet sophisticated athmosphere. The marble bench from the old Tuscan wine shop, the original grit floor, the coffered ceiling with exposed beams in the lobby make La Baraonda an evocative modern environment deeply sunk in the tradition. Make sure you try the hand made “ravioloni” filled with seabass, Gragnano pasta with tuna, eggplants, capers and tomato sauce, the typical “Coppetiello” (fried fish & calamaro with fried vegetables) and the “Catalana” (steamed lobster, prawns, shrimps and other shellfishes). It will be an unforgettable experience! An excellent Raw Fish selection is available daily. Great place both for a romantic dinner and for a family sunday lunch or just a chilly glass of wine or champagne, sitting at the tables on the outdoor patio. Cooking classes can be requested with a minimum of 2 people. Via Ghibellina, 134r - 055.2478898 www.ristorantefellini.it Open for dinner only: 19.00-1.00 Via Ghibellina 67r - 055.2260038 www.labaraonda.it Open daily 12.30-14.30 & 19.30-22.30 ow is the time to be adventurous with fish! Tuscan cooking offers many enticing platters as the basic ingredients come fresh every day from the nearby coast. Fish is good for you as well as being an ideal diet, it can be cooked in countless ways - roasted, grilled, fried, baked in foil, boiled, in a sauce or even raw - and and Italian chefs invent delicious new recipes every day! The most famous Tuscan dishes are: Livorno’s Cacciucco (a corpulent spicy fish soup over garlic flavoured grilled bread) and Baccalà alla Livornese (fried dried cod in a tomato and garlic sauce), Baccalà coi porri (dried cod with leeks). Octopus, clams, mussels, shrimps, scampi, squid and calamari in all their glory are appreciated far and wide. Florence has two main fish recipes in its tradition, baccalà (livornese style) and seppie in zimino (cod or squid with spinach or bietola). 55 P PIZZA PIZZA PIZZA! FRATELLI LA BUFALA (1) (1) (2) 56 Restaurant and Pizzeria Fratelli La Bufala can be found in characteristic Via de’ Neri in the vicinity of Piazza della Signoria; it offers typical Italian products that allow you to rediscover all the flavours and sensations contained in organically-farmed Dop and Doc products, like the meat and buffalo mozzarella from Campania to the traditional Neapolitan pizzas and other gratifying dishes. The authenticity and quality of the Fratelli la Bufala products are guaranteed by a strict control of all the raw materials. The restaurant is based on the original idea of offering suggestions, flavours and sensations related to buffalo pastures, nature and rediscovered wellbeing. You must try the pizza, made with 100% buffalo mozzarella, or the nourishing platters of buffalo meat, cheese, dressed meats, fresh pasta and desserts based on buffalo ricotta. Baked in a wood oven, the pizza menu includes the classic traditional Italian-style pizzas, all made with naturally leavened pastry and topped with Neapolitan buffalo mozzarella, as well as a selection of wines and delicious homemade desserts. Via de’Neri, 76r - 055.9063912 www.fratellilabufala.com LE ANTICHE CARROZZE (2) Try tasting some of the traditional recipes from the Italian cuisine in this ancient trattoria just off Via Tornabuoni and overlooking Piazza Santa Trinita. The warm and welcoming atmosphere in the recently restructured dining rooms still recall the mid 19th century when this venue was a regular stopping place for carriage drivers. It is the ideal place to discover the real “Florentine Steak” of genuine Chianina meat and perfectly prepared and cooked, as well as taste many other natural and healthy products, like the olive oil, dressed meats, vegetables and cheeses. The menu is based on the simple recipes typical of the local cuisine, but the Chef makes use of his wide experience to fully enhance the freshness and quality of the ingredients. All these traditional flavours in Tuscan cooking are accompanied by excellent pizzas prepared with care and experience. The pizzas boast a truly authentic flavour as they are cooked in a woodburning oven. The best wine to drink with your meal, either selecting it from the important Tuscan labels or from the excellent selection of the best Italian wines. izzas come in thousands of variations and are certainly not just round pieces of flat dough with a little tomato and cheese slapped on top! If you prefer your pizza simple make sure that the ingredients are really fresh and that the mozzarella cheese is of the buffalo variety, by far the best! A good pizza should also be baked in a proper wood burning oven to acquire just that perfect aroma and flavour desired by the true connoisseur! Pizzas can come thick and puffy, or thin and crunchy, and should overflow with flavoursome toppings. Easily digested, they are a complete meal and a popular excuse for a gettogether among friends and, eaten in pleasant surroundings they taste even better. Borgo SS. Apostoli, 66 - 055.2658156 www.leantichecarrozze.it Open daily 11.00-23.00. 57 A NIGHTLIFE ONE EYED JACK (1) (2) 58 (1) SALAMANCA (2) One eyed jack is a new venue born as a pub but quickly evolved into something more, a welcoming and friendly American rock bar, an informal environment where you can feel free to enjoy an evening out, with cocktail, music and themed parties. The owners have christened the place with the name of the smoky pubs of Twin Peaks, this passion for cinema is found in many themed party nights organized by the venue (a truly unmissable Florentine nightlife events) all inspired by the world of movies, where rock music, themed games and crazy costumes reign supreme. Live music every Friday evening with international and national bands, DJ sets Wednesday through Saturday with indie rock, reggae dancehall or jazz music. Free wi-fi for customers and maxi-screen where you can be able to follow the main sporting events of the season. Happy Hour starts at 14.00 and ends at 21.00 with pints at 3 euros and long drinks at 4. With an entrance sunken in slightly from the street-front windows and doors, Salamanca draws you in almost seductively with its muted and rustic reds, cursive lettering above the door and calm dim lighting. Upon entering, a beautiful and engaging staff allows you to be guided wherever you choose to enjoy this intriguing bar and restaurant. You may enjoy a meal in one of the three dining rooms, including a more intimately themed one in the back. Or for a more casual evening, quaint two seater tables off to the right, a variety of tables in the front room to the left, a tapas bar in the back, or a traditional bar in the very front. With a full menu from tapas to meat meals, wonderful fish dishes to salads, amazingly decadent desserts and delicious drinks, the food alone entices any restaurant goer. With its atmosphere, its upbeat American and Spanish mix of music, wonderful staff, entrancing ambience, leaving Salamanca seems like not an option. Piazza Nazario Sauro, 2 338.7941155 Open daily 14.00 - 2.00 Via Ghibellina, 80r 055.2345452 Open Daily 17.30 - 2.30 peritif comes from the Latin word “aperire”, to open. You should remember that traditionally, Italians do not drink in order to get drunk: rather, alcohol fulfils a complementary role in the dining process. An aperitif is meant to cleanse your palate and whet your appetite for the upcoming meal. The typically French and Italian rite of aperitif offers a taste of la bonne vie for those who enjoy nothing more than raising a glass in the company of friends. Many bars in Florence now offer a sophisticated choice of finger foods and snacks to accompany your aperitif. Arrive between 7pm and 9pm, buy yourself a drink and you can expect to stock up for free on a good spread of complimentary nibbles. Even the music mix is also specially chosen with smooth, soothing sounds providing a suitable backdrop for a relaxed chat among friends. 59 THE FRIENDS’ PUB Borgo San Jacopo, 51r - 055.294930 www.thefriendspub.com Hours: Open 2pm-2am Irish Pub, Aperitif with free buffet from 7pm. Free internet wireless connection. Friends’ pub welcomes you in a cosy, friendly shelter. TARTAN JOCK PUB Corso Tintori, 41r - 055.2478315 www.scottishpub.it - Open 12pm-2am Scottish pub, wide selection of beers and Scotch whisky, weekly special offers, Lunch for 9.90 Euros, appetizer buffet for the cost of the drink from 6.30pm to 9pm. Maxiscreen for sports events, Wi-Fi facility. COLLE BERETO CAFÈ Piazza Strozzi 5r - 055.283156 www.collebereto.it Always Open Colle Bereto Cafè is the privileged access to an extravagant and luxurious Florence, where you just need to open your eyes and start dreaming. Breakfast, Lounge Restaurant, American Bar, Privè. ci ’ Ca na c oli i er v e’ S ac c astell p.zza Brunelleschi io v. d e v. d e gli GOURMET & NIGHTLIFE i Colle Bereto Cafè Forno Sartoni Fratelli La Bufala Friends’ Pub Le Antiche Carrozze One Eyed p.zza Jack D’Azeglio Salamanca Tartan Jock Pub ti us t Pin v. L a c as v. R i Palazzo Medici Riccardi p.zza S. Lorenzo Basilica di S. Lorenzo v. G i ura lla C A lf a ni 11 o lo go vou r or i v. G in ce v. C a Spedale degli Innocenti delle Pietre Dure Cimitero degli Inglesi Fondazione Scienza e Tecnica b or G v. S . a zi L a No B at t is t Basilica i Galleria della SS. Annunziata dell’Accademia Museo p.zza Archeologico SS. Annunziata Nazionale v. d er o ll’Al b a v. de p.zza Madonna Aldobrandini lio Museo Gig el di Casa Martelli Basilica di Santa Maria Novella a Stufa r ic e iO Or t gli v. d e cia . Lu v. S Cappelle Medicee 13 v. dell llar i c el lai v. R u al d i arib v. G o o . v. S p.zza dell’Unità d’Italia v. d. 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P bo v. d e s tr Museo Biblioteca lC v. de v. de di S. Maria Novella Medicea-Laurenziana e ’ P uc v. d ci d t on v. n e’ v. ru ta uo v v. B Pa del Perugino PIAZZA ad nz a ufa v. P v. C e’ C a SANTA MARIA n l 10 lazz v. M ini i ac c NOVELLA uo l on ini v. o de ’ p.zza BaIAncNONhiI teb TEATRO V AN i v. de’ Cerretani ell Z Cattedrale S. Maria Nuova Museo ell p.zza o DELLA PERGOLA lung di Santa Maria din Nazionale Alinari Museo dell’Opera dell’Olio ar n o v. N on Gabrio Staff Olimpo 9 v. del Fiore Sinagoga Chiesa S. Salvatore Tr R p.zza S. Giovanni eb Fium del Duomo Ves bio v. ic c e Museo Ebraico p uc d. Ognissanti olin e Ar PIAZZA DUOMO v. de’ Pecori Museo ci Gymnasium 10 i no del Bigallo di Preistoria Museo di Preistoria Cenacolo v. dell Palestra Ricciardi 11v. Leopardi della Misericordia ’Oriuo OBLATE v. S. del Ghirlandaio p.zza lo E gi v. di M v. d v. del Campidoglio ponte A. Vespucci Ognissanti v. Tosinghi v. d. Oche dio . 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